[RBW] Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Lynne Fitz]

Rando bike:
Topeak rachet rocket (I can almost take my entire bike apart with it), 5mm hex 
wrench to hold the Topeak chain tool, S wrench.  Love that rachet rocket.  I 
hate multitools, because they are too bulky in the wrong places.

2 tubes.  1 patch kit. tire levers. Lezyne tire pump (my treat to myself last 
year). spare tire (650 B isn't to be found out in the boonies.  When I get a 
flat, particularly at night, easiest just to swap the tube and tire)

spare derailleur and brake cables.  (I have never yet broken a cable...)

little bag of bits - bolts, spare cleat bolt, quicklink for the chain.  Some 
duct tape.

Other bikes:
Tube.  Patch kit.  Cheap little multitool.  Tire pump.  Tire levers.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Wheel Set, Rich built from Rivendell, 105 hubs, 126mm spacing

[boomer]

Sold!

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, boomer wrote:
>
> Purchased new from Rivendell a few years ago and used for about 50 miles 
> and sat around the garage.  Never abused or dented.  True and spins free. 
>  Mavic Open Pro. 32 count, DT spokes. Original Shimano skewers included. 
>  Please see pics and pm me if you need more information.  $225 which 
> includes shipping!  That's less then 1/2 the original price.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sin urrr gi Rims

[Michael Hechmer]

Soapy water and very hi pressure worked very well.

Michael

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 6:39:48 PM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> I'm looking forward to trying your mechanic's soapy water trick when 
> school's out.  How did it work out for you?  I'm curious because the last 
> time I mounted my Barlow Pass tires on my Synergies I got to "enjoy" some 
> extra quality time with the bike stand before getting them right.  Lots of 
> trial and error.
>
> John
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

[Ron Mc]

Do you have a front rack?  


 

Here is what I did with Honjos and my front rack

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Shawn Granton]

Note about Babyshoe Pass, Forest Road 23, which traverses the pass, will be 
CLOSED this year, at least on the north side.
http://www.columbian.com/news/2016/may/08/gifford-pinchot-forest-road-no-23-wont-open-in-2016/
-Shawn

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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Brian Campbell]

I have the VO's on my Hilsen, which replaced a narrower set of Honjo's. I 
did think the Honjos seemed to be higher quality(subjective) and they 
seemed to be easier to install. One thing I would reccomend with either is 
using the Berthoud stays to mount them. I think they work better and they 
are lighter, by a small margin.


On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 7:26:28 PM UTC-4, Frank Brose wrote:
>
> I have VO's on my Rawland and don't have a problem with them. I wouldn't 
> hesitate to buy anothe pair.
>
> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 6:21:06 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Which is better, and why? Diffs?
>>
>> I have Honjos (~150$) on my Bleriot, but 150$ is a lot of money, compared 
>> to ~67$ for VO's, if I ever want to replace the SKS on my Sam with metal 
>> fenders.
>>
>> I have seen a famous blogger (not Grant)  sort of, but not so obviously, 
>> refer to VO stuff as "budget", but is that really true? Or is VO stuff good 
>> and pretty reliable for long term and not easy to fail?
>>
>

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[RBW] Brooks Saddle Found

[Eric Norris]

I have found a B-17. Thanks to everyone who responded.

--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
www.CampyOnly.com
Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
@Campyonlyguy


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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Ron Mc]

VO kits for both Honjo and VO (Tanaka) come pre-drilled.  
The first set I installed were 36mm Honjos that VO was closing out for $65, 
limited to 28mm tires.  
After doing it once, the second set I installed, I preferred going the 
Jitensha route of fenders with no pre-drilling so I could put all the holes 
where I wanted them, and use the exact hardware I chose.  

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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Frank Brose]

I have VO's on my Rawland and don't have a problem with them. I wouldn't 
hesitate to buy anothe pair.

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 6:21:06 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Which is better, and why? Diffs?
>
> I have Honjos (~150$) on my Bleriot, but 150$ is a lot of money, compared 
> to ~67$ for VO's, if I ever want to replace the SKS on my Sam with metal 
> fenders.
>
> I have seen a famous blogger (not Grant)  sort of, but not so obviously, 
> refer to VO stuff as "budget", but is that really true? Or is VO stuff good 
> and pretty reliable for long term and not easy to fail?
>

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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Ron Mc]

Honjos are thinner making them somewhat lighter.  
VO fenders are made by Tanaka.  
I'd say they're all good.  

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[RBW] VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Lungimsam]

Which is better, and why? Diffs?

I have Honjos (~150$) on my Bleriot, but 150$ is a lot of money, compared 
to ~67$ for VO's, if I ever want to replace the SKS on my Sam with metal 
fenders.

I have seen a famous blogger (not Grant)  sort of, but not so obviously, 
refer to VO stuff as "budget", but is that really true? Or is VO stuff good 
and pretty reliable for long term and not easy to fail?

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Re: [RBW] Re: my joe appaloosa setup

[Patrick Kelly]

It's the wider one, 710. It's wide. Really wide.

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:09 AM, Chris Birkenmaier
 wrote:
> Is your Jones bar the 660 or the 710?
>
> On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 4:35:31 AM UTC-4, Patrick D Kelly wrote:
>>
>> I've put together an album with a lot of tedious details about how I've
>> configured my joe appaloosa, including:
>>
>> * surly front rack
>> * jones loop h-bar
>> * interesting rear light mounting
>>
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHskyUyBr3
>>
>> enjoy :)
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sin urrr gi Rims

[Surlyprof]

Michael,

I'm looking forward to trying your mechanic's soapy water trick when school's 
out.  How did it work out for you?  I'm curious because the last time I mounted 
my Barlow Pass tires on my Synergies I got to "enjoy" some extra quality time 
with the bike stand before getting them right.  Lots of trial and error.

John

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[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Atlantis, double top tube, $1450

[Brencho]

i wish i was a little bit taller, i wish i was a baller, I wish I had a 
girl who looked good, i would call her, something something. remember that 
song? 

sick bike mike! you're gonna make some tall fella's dream come true. 


On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 11:44:31 AM UTC-7, Michael Williams wrote:
>
> hey group,   Up for sale is a 64cm Atlantis,  2 top tubes,   ~ 18months 
> young!   The bike is just a bit too big.  Asking $1450 for frame/ fork. 
> Buyer pays for packing/ shipping.   If at all interested,  message me off 
> list please!   Thanks!  -Mike

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Re: [RBW] Seven year itch to redecorate

[Julian]

Steve, 

Grand green bike! How does the paint on the S couplers hold up to the use 
of the tool in assembly/disassembly? 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 



On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 12:32:46 PM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> Michael, the green on green grass looks very nice, glad it worked out. 
> Coincidentally, they did my bike in a similar shade of green.  Steve
>
>  Bath, UK   
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016, Michael Hechmer  
> wrote:
>
>> It seems like as a bike reaches seven years I get the urge to give it a 
>> face lift.  This year it was our Belinky tandem.  We love the bike but the 
>> paint job did not hold up well.  Someone on this list suggested Race 
>> Metalsmith Powder Coating in White River Junction. Thank you.  They did a 
>> fabulous job, although my photography in full sunlight doesn't do it 
>> justice.  The Race guys also replaced the CP posts with canti posts, which 
>> gave us plenty of room for the 26 X 1.75 Compass Slumgullion tires, which 
>> ride very nicely.
>>
>> I did run into one unexpected problem.  They took the initiative to add a 
>> brake cable stop on the seat stays, but opted to put it below the rack 
>> eyelets, which forced my to have a very low straddle cable.  It doesn't 
>> seem to impair the braking any though.
>>
>>
>> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B02GJDfWGGpgoAQ;BADC86CF-D134-4042-8B8F-D661E75451E8
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> (And as you can see, it is time to mow the lawn)
>>
>> -- 
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>
>
> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshiret
>

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[RBW] Re: Seven year itch to redecorate

[Julian]

Michael, 

That looks great! I like the color, and the bike (of course, as a fellow 
Bilenky tandem captain, I'm biased).   :) 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 


















On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 12:25:37 PM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> It seems like as a bike reaches seven years I get the urge to give it a 
> face lift.  This year it was our Belinky tandem.  We love the bike but the 
> paint job did not hold up well.  Someone on this list suggested Race 
> Metalsmith Powder Coating in White River Junction. Thank you.  They did a 
> fabulous job, although my photography in full sunlight doesn't do it 
> justice.  The Race guys also replaced the CP posts with canti posts, which 
> gave us plenty of room for the 26 X 1.75 Compass Slumgullion tires, which 
> ride very nicely.
>
> I did run into one unexpected problem.  They took the initiative to add a 
> brake cable stop on the seat stays, but opted to put it below the rack 
> eyelets, which forced my to have a very low straddle cable.  It doesn't 
> seem to impair the braking any though.
>
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B02GJDfWGGpgoAQ;BADC86CF-D134-4042-8B8F-D661E75451E8
>
> Michael
>
> (And as you can see, it is time to mow the lawn)
>

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Re: [RBW] Thoughts on tubeless?

[Mike in WA]

Here's a link on going "ghetto tubeless" 
 using an old BMX 
tube and gorilla tape. I'm not sure how this approach would work on a 
narrower rim, but it seems the idea is that you want to built the bead seat 
up. If it was me I think I would just build a new wheelset with 
tubeless-specific rims like the Velocity A23. 

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 4:48:21 PM UTC-7, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> Can you use the thin tubeless rim tape like the WTB WCS that Mike linked 
> on rims that weren't designed for tubeless, like my Dyads? Do you just put 
> it over traditional cloth rim strips (I currently have Velox) or do you 
> remove the old cloth stuff and put the new thin stuff directly on the metal 
> of the rim, over the spoke eyelets?
>
> And again, thanks for all the help! I'm slowly catching on here. Sounds 
> like a fun project!
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 11:15:21 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>>
>> What you want is (probably multiple) layers of tape to build up a shelf 
>> to support and seal the bottom edge of the tire bead.   
>> As there isn't a tube, you don't need the deep valley in the rim bed.   
>> For valves, just get whatever is cheapest, they don't really do much.
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:19 PM, Mike in WA  wrote:
>>
>>> I used the WTB WCS Rim Tape  
>>> since 
>>> I'm using WTB rims, and it has sealed really well. I think the valves are 
>>> pretty generic, I just used Stan's valves. You'll also need a valve core 
>>> removal tool and I would recommend getting the 4oz bottle of orange seal 
>>> for topping up and a 16oz bottle as the main supply you refill with. Makes 
>>> injecting the sealant easier using their bottle. You will likely need an 
>>> air compressor to get them seated, It's pretty easy with tuebless-ready 
>>> tires though. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:30:22 AM UTC-7, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>>>
 The rims are Velocity Dyads, circa 2011 I believe. Since they're from a 
 while ago I doubt they're tubeless compatible, but I have no idea how to 
 tell if they're easily converted. Any suggestions?

 And thanks for the advice (and you too Mike)! Sign me up for Orange 
 Seal. Since I won't be getting the Stans kit, any advice on what other 
 stuff I'll need? Valves and rim strips and all that? What are you using?


 Best,
 Reed

 On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 5:06:13 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>
> What rims are you running?
> That has always been the deciding factor for me.   If they are 
> tubeless compatible or easily convertable, most definately go for it.   
> And 
> I agree with Mike in WA, use orange seal.Stans can work, but lately 
> I've only been using it in my tubes as a preventative.Orange Seal 
> just 
> seems to work easier.   
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 6:36 PM, Reed Kennedy  
> wrote:
>
>> I've been loving my new-to-me Hunqapillar, but I gotta say it does 
>> feel a bit sluggish at times with 2.15" Schwalbe Big Bens on there. 
>>
>> I'm going to give the lighter Schwalbe Big Ones a shot. It looks like 
>> the ones I've ordered are tubeless-compatible, so I was thinking of 
>> giving 
>> that a shot. Anyone who's tried it willing to share their thoughts?
>>
>> Also, is Stans No Tubes the way to go, or is there a better option?
>>
>>
>> Best,
>> Reed
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[John Speare]

her'es some maps and pics and stuff from when I did this with friends 
nearly 10 (omg!) years ago.

http://alexwetmore.org/archives/487.html


On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 11:22:37 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the ideas.  Will be in Portland at the end of June and looking 
> to spend several days riding in Gifford NF.
>
> Curtis
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:29 AM, Leaf Slayer  > wrote:
>
>> Look for Babyshoe Pass. I can't remember what road it's on but there's a 
>> long stretch of that on both sides of the summit that is gravel and it can 
>> take you towards Packwood. 
>>
>> Are you coming up here this summer? I'm going to be touring at the end of 
>> June for 5 days, possibly in the Malhuer NF but I haven't ruled out staying 
>> closer to home and just looping around in the Mt Hood NF or Gifford. 
>>
>> --mike
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 8:40:36 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> It doesn't need to be today but I'll message you on FB. 
>>>
>>> I like the Hinterlands route from bike portland, but the question is are 
>>> there decent gravel (NF roads) after Panther Creek Falls via NF 6060 
>>> (Carson Guler Rd/Hollis Creek Rd) to Wind River Hwy North up to Packwood?
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
>>> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>>>
>>> http://velocipeedemusings.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:
>>>
 Hugh, I'll try and post something up a little later today. If I space 
 out, message me through FB to remind me. There are a lot of options. One 
 thing for anyone heading up to Rainer from Packwood or close by, be sure 
 to 
 take Skate Creek Rd. It's not gravel but it's a winner.

 --mike


 On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:16:25 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> Hey Mike,
>
> If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF 
> through Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.
>
> ~Hugh
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>>
>> I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and 
>> use the FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but 
>> try to incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a 
>> little 3 day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised 
>> through 
>> there on two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a 
>> trip into Mt Rainier NP. Enjoy!
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705
>>
>> --mike
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  
>>> Any advice?  What maps do you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Curtis
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Riv's love child - new build

[s...@austin.utexas.edu]

Yes, just flipped Albas with pursuit/inverse levers instead of standard 
levers. Gives a little more aggressive position.


>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Ron Mc]

walking 9 miles with a bike is also how to spoil a good ride (I actually 
didn't list everything I carry, I was mostly addressing the small tools 
question and didn't get into chains and flats)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Ron Mc]

it's just the whole gruppo thing

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Steve Palincsar]

On 05/11/2016 04:42 PM, Ron Mc wrote:
it was a good article right up to the, /unfortunately, SRAM and 
Campagnolo don't make long-reach brakes/




Wouldn't it be a good thing if they did?


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[RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Ron Mc]

it was a good article right up to the, *unfortunately, SRAM and Campagnolo 
don't make long-reach brakes*

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[RBW] Re: my joe appaloosa setup

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Is your Jones bar the 660 or the 710?

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 4:35:31 AM UTC-4, Patrick D Kelly wrote:
>
> I've put together an album with a lot of tedious details about how I've 
> configured my joe appaloosa, including:
>
> * surly front rack
> * jones loop h-bar
> * interesting rear light mounting
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskyUyBr3
>
> enjoy :)
>

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[RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Mark Reimer]

The magazine has done a few interesting things in the last year or two 
along those viens. Remember when Benedict Wheeler was on the cover, doing a 
skid on his basket bike and 2" slicks, panniers, flat pedals, etc? And I 
think there's been some coverage of a few other expeditionary rides from 
the Yonder Journal group, which often included fairly Riv-ish attitudes and 
bikes. Glad to see it!

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 2:30:35 PM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:
>
> Most, if not all, of us who visit this group know that one of Grant 
> Petersen's primary bicycle frame design goals is maximizing tire clearance 
> to allow a rider the option for wider tires than typical production 
> bicycles can fit. He has clearly explained this in multiple Reader issues 
> as well on the website. Parallel to this, he has complained about how 
> cycling mass media, such as Bicycling Magazine, misleads readers with 
> information that is not really in the interest of most riders (excessive 
> focus on performance and bike weight, general riding modeled after road 
> racing, etc).
>
> The industry is gradually changing towards wider tires, but the road bike 
> industry has been reluctant to move past short reach brakes. 
>
> In this Bicycling Magazine article from Jan. 2016 
> , 
> the author not only admits the poor job the magazine has done in 
> highlighting road bikes with more tire clearance and the benefits of more 
> brake reach in bicycle design, but even suggests the Roadeo as a fat-tired 
> (for road bikes) fendered road bike. Maybe there's still hope (sarcasm 
> intended)!
>
> Have a nice ride!
>

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[RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I am a long time subscriber to that magazine and I find as my riding has 
evolved/changed to a more Rivendell styled experience, I just leaf through 
the magazine and recycle it within a day.  The test bikes are almost all 
road/race bikes and nothing much there for me to sink my teeth in to.  I 
get it for a good price so I just keep renewing it.  I find enjoyment from 
Bicycling Quarterly and Bicycle Times magazines.

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 3:30:35 PM UTC-4, Paul G wrote:
>
> Most, if not all, of us who visit this group know that one of Grant 
> Petersen's primary bicycle frame design goals is maximizing tire clearance 
> to allow a rider the option for wider tires than typical production 
> bicycles can fit. He has clearly explained this in multiple Reader issues 
> as well on the website. Parallel to this, he has complained about how 
> cycling mass media, such as Bicycling Magazine, misleads readers with 
> information that is not really in the interest of most riders (excessive 
> focus on performance and bike weight, general riding modeled after road 
> racing, etc).
>
> The industry is gradually changing towards wider tires, but the road bike 
> industry has been reluctant to move past short reach brakes. 
>
> In this Bicycling Magazine article from Jan. 2016 
> , 
> the author not only admits the poor job the magazine has done in 
> highlighting road bikes with more tire clearance and the benefits of more 
> brake reach in bicycle design, but even suggests the Roadeo as a fat-tired 
> (for road bikes) fendered road bike. Maybe there's still hope (sarcasm 
> intended)!
>
> Have a nice ride!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Jim M.]

I'm with you, Mark. If underbiking is a thing, then I think undertooling 
could be a category too. How do you spoil a good walk? Have all the tools 
you need to fix something.

happy trails
jim m
wc ca

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:38:41 PM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Wow, you guys carry a LOT of tools with you!! Not saying it's a bad thing 
> or anything, just surprised!
>
> I have a Tracko/Yanco ramblin roll, which is a little roll-up pouch about 
> the size of an apple. Inside I have a Crank Bros cycling multitool, a patch 
> kit, two tire levers, spare master link and a few links of extra chain, a 
> White Industries crank lockring tool (Started carrying it after a friend's 
> came loose far away from civilization) and a Phil Wood BB tool. Those last 
> two tools I actually only carry on longer rides or tours, and have never 
> once needed. Sometimes I'll bring a tube as well, which I throw in my bag. 
> Nothing else needed. 
>
> Over the last decade of riding, the only tools I've ever needed are an 
> allen key for loose rack/stem bolts, master link when I snapped a chain, 
> and a patch kit. 
>
> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 7:16:39 AM UTC-5, Skenry wrote:
>>
>> I'm liking this thread.
>>
>> Off the top of my head I can't really tell you what I carry, but I know 
>> its not much.At least a knife and a cellphone.Sealant in the tires 
>> or tubes will cause you to become reckless in your ER kits.
>>
>> Thinking of Tim's post though, maybe cyclists should start carrying 
>> challenge coins of our own.   Tweak the rules a bit, maybe challenge for a 
>> beer or a coffee.   That might be more popular in this group.I have a 
>> small collection in my carry rotation, I could see a couple custom 
>> Rivendell / cycling coins, sorta like flat headbadges
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 5:08 PM, Tim Gavin  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Flat repair:  Sometimes I swap in the spare tube and move on, and 
>>> sometimes I patch the original.  
>>> However, by the time I pump up the flat tube to diagnose the flat, it 
>>> seems easiest just to patch the hole(s) I find right then and there.  
>>> So, my flat fix procedure is:
>>> 1) remove tube and pump up to find leak
>>> 2) scour area around hole with sandpaper, apply glue
>>> 3) sweep the tire looking for the cause of the puncture, remove it
>>> 4) apply patch now that glue is tacky
>>> 5) press patch firmly and count to 30
>>> 6) pump up tube to double-check for other holes
>>> 7) re-insert tube, remount tire
>>>
>>> However, if I have other riders waiting on me, I'll ask one of them to 
>>> put a new tube in the tire and start pumping while I patch the flat tube 
>>> for re-use later.  This takes less time on a group ride.
>>>
>>> Last week, I had my two punctures:
>>> A) on my Riv Road 650b, where a small thorn punctured the tread.  Easily 
>>> removed and patched.  First flat in ~1700 miles on Pari-Motos!
>>> B) on my plastic Foundry Auger, where a metal staple punctured the 
>>> tread.  Easily removed and patched, Bontrager CX0 tires.
>>>
>>>
>>> On each bike, I carry:
>>>
>>> Pump (2 pumps get swapped around between my five bikes:  a Zefal HPX #4, 
>>> for the 2 Rivs with pump pegs, and a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive 
>>>  
>>> for the others)
>>> Spare tube
>>> Patch kit (I love the Rema Tip-Top 20 
>>> , which includes 
>>> tire levers)
>>> Tire levers (see above)
>>> Multi-tool (my faves are the Crank Brothers M10 
>>>  or M17 
>>> )
>>> Saddle cover
>>> Short bungee or two (for parking brake, or for lashing on a jacket)
>>> Lock (usually a light cable or chain; I don't lock my bikes in 
>>> high-theft areas)
>>>
>>> If the bike has battery lights (2 of 5 bikes), I pack spare batteries.
>>>
>>> My fat bike has an appetite for chains, so I carry at least one Connex 
>>> link and usually a spare chain, and the fattie gets the M17 which includes 
>>> a chain tool.
>>>
>>>
>>> On tour, I add:
>>> Leatherman Wave pliers/multi-tool
>>> Brake cable
>>> Shift Cable
>>> Chain
>>> FiberFix emergency spoke replacement
>>> Silver shifter replacement disks
>>> If I'm riding a 650b bike, I'll add a spare tire.
>>>
>>>
>>> I actually used the Leatherman on last year's RAGBRAI.  I stopped for a 
>>> group that were all staring at one guy trying to remove his rear wheel to 
>>> change a flat.  Turns out, he borrowed a bike that had security axles, and 
>>> he either didn't have the key or didn't know where to look for it.  The 
>>> axle end was easily removed with my Leatherman pliers (not that secure).  
>>> The group turned out to be the US Air Force cycling team, and they gave me 
>>> a cool commemorative coin (aka Round Metallic Object, RMO 
>>> ) for my trouble. 
>>>
>>> They said they 

Re: [RBW] Re: Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Mark Reimer]

Wow, you guys carry a LOT of tools with you!! Not saying it's a bad thing 
or anything, just surprised!

I have a Tracko/Yanco ramblin roll, which is a little roll-up pouch about 
the size of an apple. Inside I have a Crank Bros cycling multitool, a patch 
kit, two tire levers, spare master link and a few links of extra chain, a 
White Industries crank lockring tool (Started carrying it after a friend's 
came loose far away from civilization) and a Phil Wood BB tool. Those last 
two tools I actually only carry on longer rides or tours, and have never 
once needed. Sometimes I'll bring a tube as well, which I throw in my bag. 
Nothing else needed. 

Over the last decade of riding, the only tools I've ever needed are an 
allen key for loose rack/stem bolts, master link when I snapped a chain, 
and a patch kit. 

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 7:16:39 AM UTC-5, Skenry wrote:
>
> I'm liking this thread.
>
> Off the top of my head I can't really tell you what I carry, but I know 
> its not much.At least a knife and a cellphone.Sealant in the tires 
> or tubes will cause you to become reckless in your ER kits.
>
> Thinking of Tim's post though, maybe cyclists should start carrying 
> challenge coins of our own.   Tweak the rules a bit, maybe challenge for a 
> beer or a coffee.   That might be more popular in this group.I have a 
> small collection in my carry rotation, I could see a couple custom 
> Rivendell / cycling coins, sorta like flat headbadges
>
>  
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 5:08 PM, Tim Gavin  > wrote:
>
>> Flat repair:  Sometimes I swap in the spare tube and move on, and 
>> sometimes I patch the original.  
>> However, by the time I pump up the flat tube to diagnose the flat, it 
>> seems easiest just to patch the hole(s) I find right then and there.  
>> So, my flat fix procedure is:
>> 1) remove tube and pump up to find leak
>> 2) scour area around hole with sandpaper, apply glue
>> 3) sweep the tire looking for the cause of the puncture, remove it
>> 4) apply patch now that glue is tacky
>> 5) press patch firmly and count to 30
>> 6) pump up tube to double-check for other holes
>> 7) re-insert tube, remount tire
>>
>> However, if I have other riders waiting on me, I'll ask one of them to 
>> put a new tube in the tire and start pumping while I patch the flat tube 
>> for re-use later.  This takes less time on a group ride.
>>
>> Last week, I had my two punctures:
>> A) on my Riv Road 650b, where a small thorn punctured the tread.  Easily 
>> removed and patched.  First flat in ~1700 miles on Pari-Motos!
>> B) on my plastic Foundry Auger, where a metal staple punctured the 
>> tread.  Easily removed and patched, Bontrager CX0 tires.
>>
>>
>> On each bike, I carry:
>>
>> Pump (2 pumps get swapped around between my five bikes:  a Zefal HPX #4, 
>> for the 2 Rivs with pump pegs, and a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive 
>>  
>> for the others)
>> Spare tube
>> Patch kit (I love the Rema Tip-Top 20 
>> , which includes 
>> tire levers)
>> Tire levers (see above)
>> Multi-tool (my faves are the Crank Brothers M10 
>>  or M17 
>> )
>> Saddle cover
>> Short bungee or two (for parking brake, or for lashing on a jacket)
>> Lock (usually a light cable or chain; I don't lock my bikes in high-theft 
>> areas)
>>
>> If the bike has battery lights (2 of 5 bikes), I pack spare batteries.
>>
>> My fat bike has an appetite for chains, so I carry at least one Connex 
>> link and usually a spare chain, and the fattie gets the M17 which includes 
>> a chain tool.
>>
>>
>> On tour, I add:
>> Leatherman Wave pliers/multi-tool
>> Brake cable
>> Shift Cable
>> Chain
>> FiberFix emergency spoke replacement
>> Silver shifter replacement disks
>> If I'm riding a 650b bike, I'll add a spare tire.
>>
>>
>> I actually used the Leatherman on last year's RAGBRAI.  I stopped for a 
>> group that were all staring at one guy trying to remove his rear wheel to 
>> change a flat.  Turns out, he borrowed a bike that had security axles, and 
>> he either didn't have the key or didn't know where to look for it.  The 
>> axle end was easily removed with my Leatherman pliers (not that secure).  
>> The group turned out to be the US Air Force cycling team, and they gave me 
>> a cool commemorative coin (aka Round Metallic Object, RMO 
>> ) for my trouble. 
>>
>> They said they were relieved to see me pull over, since I would obviously 
>> have tools in my big panniers (correct assumption).  They were all on road 
>> bikes with minimal bags.  But, in their defense, they were supported by 
>> RAGBRAI crew plus their own support team.  I just got there a lot sooner.  
>> Fellow airmen to the rescue!  (FYI, I flew B-1 bombers for 8 years)
>>
>> They also 

[RBW] Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Paul G]

Most, if not all, of us who visit this group know that one of Grant 
Petersen's primary bicycle frame design goals is maximizing tire clearance 
to allow a rider the option for wider tires than typical production 
bicycles can fit. He has clearly explained this in multiple Reader issues 
as well on the website. Parallel to this, he has complained about how 
cycling mass media, such as Bicycling Magazine, misleads readers with 
information that is not really in the interest of most riders (excessive 
focus on performance and bike weight, general riding modeled after road 
racing, etc).

The industry is gradually changing towards wider tires, but the road bike 
industry has been reluctant to move past short reach brakes. 

In this Bicycling Magazine article from Jan. 2016 
, 
the author not only admits the poor job the magazine has done in 
highlighting road bikes with more tire clearance and the benefits of more 
brake reach in bicycle design, but even suggests the Roadeo as a fat-tired 
(for road bikes) fendered road bike. Maybe there's still hope (sarcasm 
intended)!

Have a nice ride!

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[RBW] Re: Riv's love child - new build

[Chris Birkenmaier]

So for us slow learners - that is an albatross bar just flipped?  It looks 
so different in the photo.  H may have to try that on my San Marco.

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 1:01:34 PM UTC-4, se...@austin.utexas.edu wrote:
>
> Finally got my new San Marcos built up. Velocity Atlas, Suzue Classica, 
> Nitto, Honjo, IRD, Brooks, and Carradice/Sackville to hold my stuff. Just 
> need to add some King Iris cages and I'll be set. Took it out for a brief 
> shakedown over the weekend. As one would expect, it has that smooth ride 
> inherent in GP's design methodology. So glad to have the ride quality back 
> reminiscent of my former Rambouillet.
>
> Sean
> ATX
>
>
>
> 
>

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[RBW] FS: 64cm Atlantis, double top tube, $1450

[Michael Williams]

hey group,   Up for sale is a 64cm Atlantis,  2 top tubes,   ~ 18months young!  
 The bike is just a bit too big.  Asking $1450 for frame/ fork. Buyer pays for 
packing/ shipping.   If at all interested,  message me off list please!   
Thanks!  -Mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Curtis McKenzie]

Mike,

Thanks for the ideas.  Will be in Portland at the end of June and looking
to spend several days riding in Gifford NF.

Curtis

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:29 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:

> Look for Babyshoe Pass. I can't remember what road it's on but there's a
> long stretch of that on both sides of the summit that is gravel and it can
> take you towards Packwood.
>
> Are you coming up here this summer? I'm going to be touring at the end of
> June for 5 days, possibly in the Malhuer NF but I haven't ruled out staying
> closer to home and just looping around in the Mt Hood NF or Gifford.
>
> --mike
>
> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 8:40:36 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
>> Mike,
>>
>> It doesn't need to be today but I'll message you on FB.
>>
>> I like the Hinterlands route from bike portland, but the question is are
>> there decent gravel (NF roads) after Panther Creek Falls via NF 6060
>> (Carson Guler Rd/Hollis Creek Rd) to Wind River Hwy North up to Packwood?
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
>> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>>
>> http://velocipeedemusings.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:
>>
>>> Hugh, I'll try and post something up a little later today. If I space
>>> out, message me through FB to remind me. There are a lot of options. One
>>> thing for anyone heading up to Rainer from Packwood or close by, be sure to
>>> take Skate Creek Rd. It's not gravel but it's a winner.
>>>
>>> --mike
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:16:25 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:

 Hey Mike,

 If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF through
 Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.

 ~Hugh

 On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>
> I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and use
> the FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but try 
> to
> incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a little 3
> day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised through there 
> on
> two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a trip into 
> Mt
> Rainier NP. Enjoy!
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705
>
> --mike
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  Any
>> advice?  What maps do you use?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Curtis
>>
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[RBW] Re: WTT: Albastache for 58cm Bosco

[s...@austin.utexas.edu]

Me! I've got an extra set of used Boscos (with shellac'ed cloth tape on the 
grabby parts). Switched out to Jones Bars on my LHT. 

Sean 
ATX 


>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Leaf Slayer]

Look for Babyshoe Pass. I can't remember what road it's on but there's a 
long stretch of that on both sides of the summit that is gravel and it can 
take you towards Packwood. 

Are you coming up here this summer? I'm going to be touring at the end of 
June for 5 days, possibly in the Malhuer NF but I haven't ruled out staying 
closer to home and just looping around in the Mt Hood NF or Gifford. 

--mike

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 8:40:36 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:

> Mike,
>
> It doesn't need to be today but I'll message you on FB. 
>
> I like the Hinterlands route from bike portland, but the question is are 
> there decent gravel (NF roads) after Panther Creek Falls via NF 6060 
> (Carson Guler Rd/Hollis Creek Rd) to Wind River Hwy North up to Packwood?
>
> ~Hugh
>
> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>
> http://velocipeedemusings.com/
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Leaf Slayer  > wrote:
>
>> Hugh, I'll try and post something up a little later today. If I space 
>> out, message me through FB to remind me. There are a lot of options. One 
>> thing for anyone heading up to Rainer from Packwood or close by, be sure to 
>> take Skate Creek Rd. It's not gravel but it's a winner.
>>
>> --mike
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:16:25 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Mike,
>>>
>>> If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF through 
>>> Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:

 I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and use 
 the FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but try 
 to 
 incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a little 3 
 day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised through there 
 on 
 two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a trip into 
 Mt 
 Rainier NP. Enjoy!

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705

 --mike

 On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  Any 
> advice?  What maps do you use?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Curtis
>
 -- 
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Re: [RBW] Pitfalls of relying on technology

[Patrick Moore]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dI-WZ5cvM0

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 9:57 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> This may be helpful for anyone riding a random urine event. Grin.
> http://yehudamoon.com/comic/2015-05-12/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
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[RBW] Pitfalls of relying on technology

[Deacon Patrick]

This may be helpful for anyone riding a random urine event. Grin.
http://yehudamoon.com/comic/2015-05-12/

With abandon,
Patrick

www.OurHolyConception.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org


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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Ron Mc]

Mark, adding to the CX70 FD info, it's "10-speed" and the cage is shaped 
for a "small big" ring - max ring size is 46T

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Christopher Wiggins]

That's what I would do.  At least at my house, it would go un noticed.  ;)


On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 11:46:46 AM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Christopher, I actually did that as well! Though with the shimano pods. I 
> had to file that little washer thing a bit, but my wife's Cross Check now 
> has the most gorgeous bar end shifters ever. i'm actually thinking of 
> buying new 10 spd bar ends and putting them on her bike, then stealing the 
> ones like you have for myself, mwahaha!
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:44 AM, Christopher Wiggins  > wrote:
>
>> If you've got some parts lying around something like this may be 
>> possible.  I managed to make this work with a combination of Shimano and 
>> Silver pod parts.  I think it was a Zen moment.  Hard to say if I could 
>> recreate it or not.
>>
>> -- 
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>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

Christopher, I actually did that as well! Though with the shimano pods. I
had to file that little washer thing a bit, but my wife's Cross Check now
has the most gorgeous bar end shifters ever. i'm actually thinking of
buying new 10 spd bar ends and putting them on her bike, then stealing the
ones like you have for myself, mwahaha!

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:44 AM, Christopher Wiggins 
wrote:

> If you've got some parts lying around something like this may be
> possible.  I managed to make this work with a combination of Shimano and
> Silver pod parts.  I think it was a Zen moment.  Hard to say if I could
> recreate it or not.
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Christopher Wiggins]

If you've got some parts lying around something like this may be possible. 
 I managed to make this work with a combination of Shimano and Silver pod 
parts.  I think it was a Zen moment.  Hard to say if I could recreate it or 
not.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Ron Mc]

My set-up is 3 x 7, and I'm running 8-sp chain.  

On my Ultegra CX-70 FD (which is the new 600 EX) I'm running a 2x9 with a 
9sp Wippermann chain and it's a delight - I can run the full width rear 
without adjusting the FD.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Hugh Smitham]

Mike,

It doesn't need to be today but I'll message you on FB.

I like the Hinterlands route from bike portland, but the question is are
there decent gravel (NF roads) after Panther Creek Falls via NF 6060
(Carson Guler Rd/Hollis Creek Rd) to Wind River Hwy North up to Packwood?

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipeedemusings.com/



On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:

> Hugh, I'll try and post something up a little later today. If I space out,
> message me through FB to remind me. There are a lot of options. One thing
> for anyone heading up to Rainer from Packwood or close by, be sure to take
> Skate Creek Rd. It's not gravel but it's a winner.
>
> --mike
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:16:25 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>> Hey Mike,
>>
>> If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF through
>> Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>>>
>>> I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and use
>>> the FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but try to
>>> incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a little 3
>>> day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised through there on
>>> two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a trip into Mt
>>> Rainier NP. Enjoy!
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705
>>>
>>> --mike
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:

 Hi,

 Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  Any
 advice?  What maps do you use?

 Thanks,

 Curtis

>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

Ok now we're talking! Great suggestion Patrick, I love that you hacked it a
bit to make it work. That's true commitment to having interesting
derailleurs!

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> My Dura Ace 7410 handles the 44-to 22-tooth jump competently -- only,
> because of the distance to the outer ring on the mtb crankset, I had to
> file off the outer limit stop tab. But, having done so, it works fine, tho'
> this may shorten the life of the spring. Oh, and I have to be careful to
> use the granny only with the biggest cogs.
>
> Il faut souffrir pour etre beau.
>
> IMO, Dura Ace 7410 derailleurs are among the prettiest ever made, and give
> full aesthetic punch to a bike built with mountain bike crankset and fat
> tires (along with the silver Impero with Campy head).
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:
>
>> Also don't know about interesting, but Ultegra CX-70 FD will handle the
>> front ring jump with aplomb.
>>
>> --
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>
>
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
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> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

Cool, thanks Ron! The 600EX is a very handsome derailleur. What speed of
chain were you using with it? I was having a lot of difficulty preventing
my chain from dropping with the very wide cage of the 5 and 6 speed
derailleurs. It seemed to just fly right off most of the time.

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:30 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> I've never liked Suntour FD and still consider my 600EX Arabesque the best
> FD I've ever used (and still use it) - it makes 26T to 42T jump I'm asking
> of it with aplomb.
> Ultegra CX-70 FD is available either top pull or bottom pull
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-cx70-double-10sp-front-mech/rp-prod70123
> If you hunt around, there are some really good sale prices on this part.
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Patrick Moore]

My Dura Ace 7410 handles the 44-to 22-tooth jump competently -- only,
because of the distance to the outer ring on the mtb crankset, I had to
file off the outer limit stop tab. But, having done so, it works fine, tho'
this may shorten the life of the spring. Oh, and I have to be careful to
use the granny only with the biggest cogs.

Il faut souffrir pour etre beau.

IMO, Dura Ace 7410 derailleurs are among the prettiest ever made, and give
full aesthetic punch to a bike built with mountain bike crankset and fat
tires (along with the silver Impero with Campy head).


On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> Also don't know about interesting, but Ultegra CX-70 FD will handle the
> front ring jump with aplomb.
>
> --
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>



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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Ron Mc]

I've never liked Suntour FD and still consider my 600EX Arabesque the best 
FD I've ever used (and still use it) - it makes 26T to 42T jump I'm asking 
of it with aplomb.  
Ultegra CX-70 FD is available either top pull or bottom pull 
  
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-cx70-double-10sp-front-mech/rp-prod70123
If you hunt around, there are some really good sale prices on this part.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

Is that a top-pull only? I'm going to need one that pulls from the bottom.
I'm currently using an ultegra derailleur that works pretty well. It's not
terribly interesting, but it works a WHOLE lot better than the Suntour
Cyclone 5-speed derailleur I had on before haha. So many dropped chains.

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 10:12 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> Also don't know about interesting, but Ultegra CX-70 FD will handle the
> front ring jump with aplomb.
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Ron Mc]

Also don't know about interesting, but Ultegra CX-70 FD will handle the 
front ring jump with aplomb.  

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[RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Ron Mc]

Try jensenusa.com - they're all on sale and service is great

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[RBW] Re: Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

Oh and my second question was where are people buying their bar end 
shifters from? Doesn't look like Nashbar has them anymore. I'd be happy to 
buy a used pair, especially if they are the slightly older 10-speed 
downtube version without the plastic finger pads on them

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 9:46:43 AM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> So I'm running Dura-Ace 10-speed bar end shifters (now converted to 
> down-tube shifters) on my Atlantis, matched to an Ultegra front derailleur 
> and an XT rear derailleur, 44/26 chain rings to 11-36 XT cassette. I'm a 
> fan. 
>
> I'm building up a new bike right now and pondering the drive train, 
> looking for some Riv-ish advice.
>
> I'm running white industries ENO cranks with a 46/30 chain ring combo. 
> I've also got a 42/24 combo for when I ride the divide in summer. Rear will 
> be 11-36 again. But I'm looking for some derailleurs to use with 10-speed 
> bar ends that are a little moreinteresting.
>
> I'm thinking of the first gen XTR 9-speed rear derailleur. I've seen some 
> people running those all the way up to 11-speed friction before. So here's 
> my question:
>
> I understand 9 and 10 speed chains are the same internal width, with 10 
> speed having thinner plates. So the XTR 9-speed jockey wheels should work 
> just fine (I originally had a Deore 9-speed derailleur on my Atlantis 
> before it ripped in half on the oregon outback). Is anyone out there 
> running a XTR M952 with 10-speed dura ace shifters? Think it'd work? 
>
> If not, I'm happy to entertain alternate derailleur suggestions. Something 
> with some bling factor preferably, and not something that looks like a 
> transformer. 
>

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[RBW] Where to buy bar-end shifters, advice on interesting derailleurs

[Mark Reimer]

So I'm running Dura-Ace 10-speed bar end shifters (now converted to 
down-tube shifters) on my Atlantis, matched to an Ultegra front derailleur 
and an XT rear derailleur, 44/26 chain rings to 11-36 XT cassette. I'm a 
fan. 

I'm building up a new bike right now and pondering the drive train, looking 
for some Riv-ish advice.

I'm running white industries ENO cranks with a 46/30 chain ring combo. I've 
also got a 42/24 combo for when I ride the divide in summer. Rear will be 
11-36 again. But I'm looking for some derailleurs to use with 10-speed bar 
ends that are a little moreinteresting.

I'm thinking of the first gen XTR 9-speed rear derailleur. I've seen some 
people running those all the way up to 11-speed friction before. So here's 
my question:

I understand 9 and 10 speed chains are the same internal width, with 10 
speed having thinner plates. So the XTR 9-speed jockey wheels should work 
just fine (I originally had a Deore 9-speed derailleur on my Atlantis 
before it ripped in half on the oregon outback). Is anyone out there 
running a XTR M952 with 10-speed dura ace shifters? Think it'd work? 

If not, I'm happy to entertain alternate derailleur suggestions. Something 
with some bling factor preferably, and not something that looks like a 
transformer. 

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[RBW] Re: Riv's love child - new build

[s...@austin.utexas.edu]

Soma New Express rubber. Like them a lot so far. Went back and forth 
between those and a set of Compass Loup Loup Pass (both made by Panaracer, 
I think), but I am happy with the New Express. Soma is making some realty 
nice stuff.

My setup on my old Ram was significantly different (noodles, bars below 
saddle height, sugino triple, etc.), but I feel like the ride quality of 
the frame is there. Hard to explain, but it has something to do with that 
Riv "magic" that GP puts into his frame designs. Also, the tubing spec is 
much nicer and more lively than what I've been riding for the last 5 years 
(Surly LHY and Big Dummy). I love my Surlys and both are stellar bikes 
(especially the BD), but it's nice to be one a less-overbuilt and livelier 
frame. Haven't taken the SM out that much yet and haven't really climbed 
any hills of significance (completed my first Tour das Hugel here in Austin 
on my old Ram with friction shifting back in 2009 http://www.dashugel.com/). 


Evan, swept back bars is the only way I ride now. Neck problems prevent me 
from any form of leaned-forward, racing tuck. So, I am much more content to 
pedal hard while being able to "see the sights and smell the roses". The SM 
rides great with the swept back bars. I was going to run some Albastache, 
but I had some Albatross bars already so I just flipped 'em. I can't 
believe this isn't a more popular seller for Soma. Great entry into that 
Rivendell "feel" and you get a beautiful frame to boot!

Sean



>

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[RBW] FS: Wheel Set, Rich built from Rivendell, 105 hubs, 128mm spacing

[boomer]

Weird spacing, I know.  They were spaced to fit a 126mm or 130mm rear spaced 
frame. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Scott Henry]

I'm liking this thread.

Off the top of my head I can't really tell you what I carry, but I know its
not much.At least a knife and a cellphone.Sealant in the tires or
tubes will cause you to become reckless in your ER kits.

Thinking of Tim's post though, maybe cyclists should start carrying
challenge coins of our own.   Tweak the rules a bit, maybe challenge for a
beer or a coffee.   That might be more popular in this group.I have a
small collection in my carry rotation, I could see a couple custom
Rivendell / cycling coins, sorta like flat headbadges



On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 5:08 PM, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Flat repair:  Sometimes I swap in the spare tube and move on, and
> sometimes I patch the original.
> However, by the time I pump up the flat tube to diagnose the flat, it
> seems easiest just to patch the hole(s) I find right then and there.
> So, my flat fix procedure is:
> 1) remove tube and pump up to find leak
> 2) scour area around hole with sandpaper, apply glue
> 3) sweep the tire looking for the cause of the puncture, remove it
> 4) apply patch now that glue is tacky
> 5) press patch firmly and count to 30
> 6) pump up tube to double-check for other holes
> 7) re-insert tube, remount tire
>
> However, if I have other riders waiting on me, I'll ask one of them to put
> a new tube in the tire and start pumping while I patch the flat tube for
> re-use later.  This takes less time on a group ride.
>
> Last week, I had my two punctures:
> A) on my Riv Road 650b, where a small thorn punctured the tread.  Easily
> removed and patched.  First flat in ~1700 miles on Pari-Motos!
> B) on my plastic Foundry Auger, where a metal staple punctured the tread.
> Easily removed and patched, Bontrager CX0 tires.
>
>
> On each bike, I carry:
>
> Pump (2 pumps get swapped around between my five bikes:  a Zefal HPX #4,
> for the 2 Rivs with pump pegs, and a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive
>  for
> the others)
> Spare tube
> Patch kit (I love the Rema Tip-Top 20
> , which includes
> tire levers)
> Tire levers (see above)
> Multi-tool (my faves are the Crank Brothers M10
>  or M17
> )
> Saddle cover
> Short bungee or two (for parking brake, or for lashing on a jacket)
> Lock (usually a light cable or chain; I don't lock my bikes in high-theft
> areas)
>
> If the bike has battery lights (2 of 5 bikes), I pack spare batteries.
>
> My fat bike has an appetite for chains, so I carry at least one Connex
> link and usually a spare chain, and the fattie gets the M17 which includes
> a chain tool.
>
>
> On tour, I add:
> Leatherman Wave pliers/multi-tool
> Brake cable
> Shift Cable
> Chain
> FiberFix emergency spoke replacement
> Silver shifter replacement disks
> If I'm riding a 650b bike, I'll add a spare tire.
>
>
> I actually used the Leatherman on last year's RAGBRAI.  I stopped for a
> group that were all staring at one guy trying to remove his rear wheel to
> change a flat.  Turns out, he borrowed a bike that had security axles, and
> he either didn't have the key or didn't know where to look for it.  The
> axle end was easily removed with my Leatherman pliers (not that secure).
> The group turned out to be the US Air Force cycling team, and they gave me
> a cool commemorative coin (aka Round Metallic Object, RMO
> ) for my trouble.
>
> They said they were relieved to see me pull over, since I would obviously
> have tools in my big panniers (correct assumption).  They were all on road
> bikes with minimal bags.  But, in their defense, they were supported by
> RAGBRAI crew plus their own support team.  I just got there a lot sooner.
> Fellow airmen to the rescue!  (FYI, I flew B-1 bombers for 8 years)
>
> They also appreciated my frame pump, which was easier work than the tiny
> pump they were going to use.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 3:09 PM, Jim Bronson 
> wrote:
>
>> Yeah what Steve said.  Although, I do have some admiration for people who
>> do patch tubes successfully.  I've never been able to get the technique
>> down quite right.
>>
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:38 PM, Steve Palincsar 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On 05/10/2016 09:25 AM, Ginz wrote:
>>>
 I'd eliminate one of the tubes.  A single tube with patches should be
 sufficient.

>>>
>>> "Should."   I guess you've never had a bad day.  Or failed to find a
>>> nearly invisible wire or itsy bitsy tiny glass shard.  I have.  And even on
>>> a group ride, with all but two of my bikes nobody in the group but me is
>>> going to have tubes that will fit.  So I carry 3 tubes, and let them weigh
>>> what they weigh.  As for patches: fine as a last ditch alternative, but if
>>> you're having a bad day odds are that either 

[RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Leaf Slayer]

Hugh, I'll try and post something up a little later today. If I space out, 
message me through FB to remind me. There are a lot of options. One thing 
for anyone heading up to Rainer from Packwood or close by, be sure to take 
Skate Creek Rd. It's not gravel but it's a winner.

--mike

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:16:25 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> Hey Mike,
>
> If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF through 
> Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.
>
> ~Hugh
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>>
>> I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and use 
>> the FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but try to 
>> incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a little 3 
>> day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised through there on 
>> two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a trip into Mt 
>> Rainier NP. Enjoy!
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705
>>
>> --mike
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  Any 
>>> advice?  What maps do you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Curtis
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

[Steve Palincsar]

On 05/11/2016 05:29 AM, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
Thanks for the excellent feedback.  After reading the posts, I took 
another look at the fender set-up, and still can't really see what 
it's rattling against.  As far as I can tell, it clears the tire and 
front rack by good margins.  I tightened up all associated bolts and 
screws and will see if that makes a difference.


Have you looked at the sides of the fender where it fits through the 
fork?  When I installed the fenders I showed you yesterday on my George 
Longstaff, initially I had a hideous loud rattle that turned out to be 
just that, contact between the edges of the fender and the inside edges 
of the fork crown/fork blades.  It doesn't require a lot of clearance to 
prevent, but at that time I had zero.  With metal fenders, it doesn't 
take a lot of bending of the edges to fix a problem like that.



Next step, assuming I still have this problem, would be to try a 
variation on the idea of an extra stay, and find a way to attach the 
front end to my front rack and see whether that helps.


Rattle or no, if you can see waggling of the front edge of the fender 
you should do this anyway.   I have no idea if it's as lethal to plastic 
fenders as it is to metal ones, but it looks ugly and disturbing and 
it's worth a few bucks to fix it.



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[RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

[Kevin Lindsey]

Thanks for the excellent feedback.  After reading the posts, I took another 
look at the fender set-up, and still can't really see what it's rattling 
against.  As far as I can tell, it clears the tire and front rack by good 
margins.  I tightened up all associated bolts and screws and will see if 
that makes a difference.  Next step, assuming I still have this problem, 
would be to try a variation on the idea of an extra stay, and find a way to 
attach the front end to my front rack and see whether that helps.
To clarify the issue a bit: the fender is fine under most conditions.  It's 
only when I ride over rough stretches that it makes its noise.
All the best,
Kevin

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 12:56:44 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Might as well put a front rack on the bike and attach front of fender to 
> it. You can carry stuff on the rack and hang a light on it to boot.

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[RBW] Re: Gifford Pinchot NF

[Hugh Smitham]

Hey Mike,

If possible could you illustrate the route you'd take from GPNF through 
Rainier? Gravel roads preferred.

~Hugh

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:08:29 PM UTC-7, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>
> I've done a fair amount of riding and bike camping in the GPNF and use the 
> FS map. It's fine. I'm not sure how much you've ridden there but try to 
> incorporate Babyshoe Pass and Lake Takhlakh. Some pictures from a little 3 
> day trip a friend and I did a few years back. I've cruised through there on 
> two other longer trips. It's also pretty easy to incorporate a trip into Mt 
> Rainier NP. Enjoy!
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157624841177705
>
> --mike
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 9:45:28 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Looking into riding for several days in the Gifford Pinchot NF.  Any 
>> advice?  What maps do you use?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Curtis
>>
>

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