date:20160526

Check Greg Reiche's post in this iBob thread. 

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/internet-bob/EJwZY9TJoS0

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[RBW] Re: Chainrings...when to replace?

Yep, you're due.  With a new chain acting up, it's wear on the rings.  If 
you change rings today, you will notice an immediate reduction in the 
amount of noise the drivetrain makes.  Rings wear so gradually that things 
get pretty rattly, even with a new chain.  

dougp

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:03:17 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Juust starting to see a hint of shark toothing on my Sugino middle 
> ring and big ring...
>
> Noticing that dropping from the big ring onto the middle ring with my 
> brand new chain hesitates sometimes, like the big ring goes around 1/2 turn 
> before releasing it...jammed once into the derailer body on the way down 
> once...didn't do this with my old chain...
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Joe,
You're not much older than I.  I'm 51.  On the idea of planning ahead as
mentioned earlier, I'm not sure I want to learn to use friction at this
point either.  Who knows how long my hearing may last.  So, some type of
indexing would be preferred, whether indexed bar ends or brifters.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 8:53 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Bianchi uses Dia-Compe (same internals as Silver) friction shifters with a
> 10-speed cassette on their L'Eroica bike. Or you can use 10-speed indexed
> bar-ends, which would be my preference (front is still friction). I've
> pretty much walked away from rear friction at this point; at 54-years-old
> I've lost the fine hearing necessary to hear what's going on with the
> chain/cassette back there, and can't tell if I'm properly in gear anymore.
> I'm old!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

Zach,
I agree.  The responses on this thread have been wonderful, including your
response.

I may be a bit further along than at the beginning.  After all, I've been
thinking of a Riv for many years.  I think I have the bike choice narrowed
to just the AHH, mostly thanks to the comments on this thread.  I would be
comfortable placing the order for an AHH now to get it started, though I'm
not in a rush to do so.  Though possible, it's not likely to change from
this.  The only remaining issue on starting the AHH order is whether to get
standard blue or go for a custom color.  The standard blue is a safer
choice.  A custom color would make it unique, but may hinder sale later if
I ever did want to sell, though I cannot now envision ever wanting that.

Even after placing the order, I will still have a bit of time, maybe a
couple of months, to finalize component selection.  Your mention of the 9sp
or less is what triggered the re-think in my response to Tim.  Maybe the
standard Riv 3x9 is sufficient or even to be preferred.  I know it would be
sufficient.  I'm not sure about the preferred part yet.

For some of the other components I'm narrowing down choices on...

Bars - Nitto Randonneur - I want a drop bar and like the flare out of the
drop on these.  Earlier, Tim removed my worry about possibly using brifters
on it.  I had the FSA Wing Pro on my VO Rando and it was nice.  I think the
Randonneur flare may be a little better for me, though that's just a guess
right now.

Wheels - Since I am not likely to need much lighting, battery power should
be sufficient for lighting instead of getting a dyno.  If I ever do any
touring later, I can get a dyno hub for the second wheel set.  I like the
idea of Phil hubs, but am leaning towards the standard Riv wheels.  I don't
know enough about Phils to know if extra cost difference would be worth it
for my application.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 5:23 PM, Zach Kahl  wrote:

> What a great thread. I would say the worst thing about buying a Rivendell
> is that every option is a win. That said, people who ride Riv (in my
> opinion) know exactly what type of riding they are wanting to do and then
> pick out which bike is best for that. Most all of them are going to attach
> some weight to the bike(s), which makes the Roadeo kind of a niche bike
> once you already have a Riv that will allow you to go on a tour. Since you
> said you want to have only one bike, I would take a strong look at the AHH
> or an Appaloosa.
>
> I am on a 62 Hunq and I am 6'6" with a bad back. I still built it with DT
> shifters and that is a decision I made and have not looked back on for a
> second. The brainlessness that happens once I got used to the reach make
> being on the bike very natural for me and allowed be to acquire the feeling
> that makes a Rivendell so dreamy once it is dialed in (I have more trouble
> finding the right bottle cage than I do finding my shifters).
>
> I have heard everyone hear say supporting things about both of the bikes
> you started out talking on; with some additions on your first 2 choices. I
> would recommend cancelling the Roadeo and look at the other options. I
> would not go 11sp because I think that these bikes work great as 9sp or
> less (with a triple front ring you can run the whole gamut with the proper
> cassette).
>
> I would say that you are only at the beginning stage of making your
> decision and once you know all of the choices front and back you will make
> your choice of what you want and will ride. This will make the first day of
> ownership be just as special as every day you ride the bike. I would be
> surprised if you bought another bike ever again, and if you did I am
> certain it would be another Rivendell.
>
> Buy something that has tire clearance, buy something that can accept a
> rack. Enjoy yourself and have no regrets!!
>
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[RBW] Re: Sugino chainring swap as easy as this Rivideo makes it look?

Main concern is getting the crank arm back on tight enough. How do you know? Is 
there a torque spec for square taper cranks?

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Re: [RBW] Chainrings...when to replace?

2016-05-26 Thread Bill Gibson

Ach, tis time to re chainring, or if it be symmetrical, without fancy
ramps, it may be reversed and ridden awhile before skipping intolerably.
Or, it'll ruin precious chain.

On Thursday, May 26, 2016, Lungimsam  wrote:

> Juust starting to see a hint of shark toothing on my Sugino middle
> ring and big ring...
>
> Noticing that dropping from the big ring onto the middle ring with my
> brand new chain hesitates sometimes, like the big ring goes around 1/2 turn
> before releasing it...jammed once into the derailer body on the way down
> once...didn't do this with my old chain...
>
>
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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

dougP,
Thanks for the mention of the cable routing thread.  I'll do a search and
give it a read.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 10:17 AM, dougP  wrote:

> "Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future,
> rack/bag, handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable
> routing.  If barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead
> of big and loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat
> and tidy routing may affect cable life."
>
> We had a thread a while back on routing the bar end shifter cables under
> the tape that may be worth searching for.  IIRC the consensus was it was a
> successful approach.  My wife's Atlantis came with drops with the cables
> under the tape, exiting near the stem. Quite tidy, allows her a choice of
> front bags (currently an Acorn that nearly fills between the drops). n
> She's had the bike now well over 5 years & I may have replaced cables once,
> just on general principles (we bought it used).  Rivendell could also tell
> you what they've done.
>
> dougP
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:21:22 AM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end
>>> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I
>>> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any
>>> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be
>>> aware of.
>>>
>>
>> Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future,
>> rack/bag, handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable
>> routing.  If barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead
>> of big and loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat
>> and tidy routing may affect cable life.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Tim,
Lots of great info.  Thanks.  If I go with bar ends, I was thinking of
running the cable along the bar, existing the tape vertically through a
notch in the inside of the brake hoods.  That may keep the cable loop from
going too far forward and interfering with a bag I may mount in the front
later.  This might avoid the friction of following the bar further along
while still keeping the cable tucked in a bit.

> I changed the right bar-end out for a 10-speed indexed Shimano BS79
shifter

I took a look at that shifter and one thing let to another until I was
looking at the Shimano SL-BSR1.  I hadn’t thought I could get an 11-speed
group with bar ends.  That’s tempting, though I would be giving up the
friction option.  Like you say, it’s only a twist of the adjustment barrel
every so often to tweak it.  But, then again, after reading the comments
after yours, I wonder whether I would be better off with the standard 3x9
from Riv.  I do like the gearing on that.

Thanks.

Tim



On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 8:49 AM, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Tim-
>
> *Regarding cable loops*:  there are several ways to run the shift cables
> with bar-end shifters.
>
> You can have the cables run in separate loops that stick out in front of
> the head tube, with partial wrap or even no wrap at all.  These big loops
> put the least friction on the shift cable, but they can get in the way of a
> bag on top of the front wheel.
>
> Or, you can wrap the cables under the tape up to the top of the bars, and
> then have them exit and loop down do the cable stops on the down tube.
> This method puts a couple more bends in the housing (possibly adding
> friction) but keeps the cables out of the way of bags in front.
>
>
> *Regarding brifters on Randonneur (or other flared bars)*:  I find that
> the flare of the bar actually makes it EASIER to operate the shift paddle
> on brifters.  My wrists hurt less because the angle is less severe.  I've
> used old Shimano, old Campy, and new SRAM brifters on Nitto Randonneur
> B135s and Salsa Cowchipper bars without issues.
>
>
> *Regarding 10 speeds with friction bar-ends*:  I've successfully shifted
> a 9-speed cassette with Silver shifters, it wasn't that tricky.  Move the
> lever until the chain moves, then stop.  Friction allows you to fine-tune
> the derailer trim easily.
>
> That said, when I changed my Riv over to a 10-speed cassette, I changed
> the right bar-end out for a 10-speed indexed Shimano BS79 shifter.  I
> really like the crisp, exact index action, and it only takes a turn or two
> on the cable adjustment barrel once a year or so to keep the indexing tuned
> perfectly.
>
> I found that I liked the indexed bar-end so much that I switched the
> 9-speed bar-end on my vintage Schwinn KOM over from "friction" to "SIS".
>
> Caveat: if you want a 10-speed bar-end that can do both friction and
> indexed, you need to use the last-generation BS78 shifter.  The
> current-generation BS79 shifter looks the same but has no friction option.
>
>
> *Regarding your bike choice*:  I'm #225 and very happy with my Roadeo (I
> picked up a used 2010 frame from a listmember this winter).  It rides great
> and is not noodly.
>
> But, the Roadeo is my 5th bike and is my least-ridden, because I've set it
> up without racks, bags, or fenders.  My Riv Road Standard has a slightly
> heavier-gauge frame (753 vs TT OX Platinum), and is probably more similar
> to an AHH than a Roadeo.  I ride my Riv Road Standard a lot, and it has
> fenders, a front mini-rack with a rando bag for commuting and short trips,
> and a Nitto R20 rack for when I tour.
>
> I think the AHH or Sam H would be a great choice for your described use.
> I like John's suggestion of a second wheelset if you only have one bike.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 11:57 PM, Tim Butterfield <
> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Doug,
>>
>> Security is somewhat of a worry.  The bike is just outside of our RV door
>> and our German Shepherd barks at most things that move around us.  Noisy
>> gravel provides some alert for movement outside.  There is a covered cabana
>> with a picnic table in it.  A Topeak cover is over the bike and it is cable
>> locked through the frame to a cabana corner post.  The bottom of the wheels
>> show, but not much else.  For a Riv, I would upgrade to a U-Lock through a
>> padded chain through the frame and a set of Pitlocks.
>>
>> I was reading some of the product descriptions and comments on Riv for
>> the shifters.  Though not official supported in the product description,
>> the comments indicate some have managed to get them working with 10
>> speeds.  If I decide to go that route, I would have to ask Riv if they
>> would build it that way.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:50 PM, dougP  wrote:
>>
>>> Tim:
>>>
>>> How secure is your RV park? I would hesitate to lock any bike outside
>>> like that unless it's well hidden & secure.

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

John,
I would ride roads more than trails.  Currently, my riding is all paved
except for a few hundreds yards.  Half of that is grass, the other half
gravel.  There are some trails I would like to ride, but I would be riding
pavement to get to them.  For handlebar position, I think I want a drop
bar, though I want the drops below the saddle with the tops above the
saddle.  Of course, that may change as I gain experience on it and tweak
things more.  For tires, I'm leaning toward the Jack Brown Blues or maybe
some Gravel King (slicks).

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 8:42 AM, Surlyprof  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> I'd +1 Drew's suggestion of a Hilson or Hillborne or, possibly an
> Appaloosa.  Since you are only going to have one, those three seem to be
> more all-arounder than the Rodeo (although I've always coveted the Rodeo).
> The way I view them, the Hilson and Hillborne are the all-arounders if you
> ride roads more than trails and the Appaloosa if you ride more trails than
> roads.  The Hillborne can handle a wider tire than the Hilson although the
> Hilson is IMHO one of Riv's most beautiful bikes.  I only own 1 bike to
> avoid clutter in my garage/studio/shop.  Like you, I also tried to create
> Riv-ish bikes once with a Surly Cross Check followed by a Soma Groove.  I
> sold those off as well as my Bianchi road bike that could only take 23mm
> tires and bought a Sam.  I kick myself thinking of how much I would have
> ultimately saved had I just bought a Riv from the beginning.  I've owned an
> orange canti-Hillborne for about two years now and absolutely love it.
> Being over 50, having the handlebars above the saddle has been much more
> comfortable without sacrificing the feeling of speed and nimbleness.  I
> started with Albatross bars but quickly changed to Albastaches to get a
> more aggressive more position when I want it while still being able to ride
> more upright when needed.  I have been able to ride trails on Smart Sams
> and roads on Barlow Pass tires.  The one thing I did that eased the
> versatility was buy a second, lighter wheelset for the Compass tires.  This
> has made changing over from trail and commuter bike to light-ish road bike
> much quicker and easier than swapping tires.  I do have to adjust the
> barrel adjusters on the brakes to accommodate for the different rim
> widths.  The whole operation takes about 15 minutes.  If you are worried
> about the rain, you may want to consider the Brooks C-series seats rather
> than the leather ones.  That said, I've had good luck with the Randi Jo
> seat cover they sell at Riv (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/s92.htm).
>
> I'm sure you'll be happy with whatever you choose.  I've never ridden a
> Riv I haven't adored.
> John
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 7:38:33 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
>> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
>> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
>> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
>> was sort of rivish.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>>
>> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
>> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
>> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
>> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
>> definitely not rivish.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>>
>> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
>> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
>> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
>> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
>> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
>> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
>> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks
>> without having to change frames.
>>
>> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two
>> mentioned.  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was
>> more modern with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs
>> and SRAM setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much,
>> I like the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It
>> looks clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I
>> expect that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But,
>> using DT shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work
>> with an 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and
>> cons of each.
>>
>> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some
>> RVs have sufficient

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

masmojo,
You echo some of my sentiments on this.  I don’t want something just for
today or even this year.  Part of that is the desire to be mentally
invested in my choices as I mentioned to Patrick instead of letting Grant
or someone else at Riv pick it for me, as wonderful as that result might
be.  Of course, all of this information I am receiving on the group is a
great help in helping me think through and narrow down my choices.  I want
something that I can ride for many years and that can handle the tweaks of
whatever I might want to do with in future.  A versatility that allows that
speaks to me.  I think that may be why I didn’t look too much at the
Atlantis.  I doubt I would ever do a long tour on it, but also view it as
not quite roady enough for what I want to do first.  Until I put down my
deposit, I can be convinced of something else, but it looks like the AHH
may be the best fit so far.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 8:14 AM, masmojo  wrote:

> Out of the two you've presented the HH is the most versatile and would be
> my recommendation (especially considering you weight, in fact I think maybe
> even an Atlantis might be worth considering). A couple other things to
> consider,  first no matter which you choose the ability to turn around and
> sell it if it's not to your liking is probably unparalleled in any other
> bike. Secondly,  you might consider your age and where you will be with
> cycling in 5 or 10 years!? In other words think of it as a long term
> relationship and not solely about what you ride or how you ride now!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

Patrick,
Hi.  It’s been a while since we chatted on the Minimal list.  I see you’re
still enjoying your Riv and have added another to the stable.  That’s
great.  I think it was a comment you had made quite a while back.  I came
across it while searching the group and it made me think of the versatility
of the AHH.  Comments by others have added to that view.  Thanks for that.

> And all the mind-spinning fretting I did would have been far easier if
I'd just spoken to Grant and Co. once and let them run with it and ridden
what they sent me.

I’ve thought of that also.  But, if I did that, would it really be mine or
still theirs?  I think I need to personalize it a bit and make it mine to
be more mentally invested in it.

Thanks for the the ideas.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 7:34 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> "are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?"
> Absolutely. A Riv setup is brilliant, simple, and easily adjusted/fixed in
> field if needed. More importantly, they ride fantastically, and that
> matters for every distance. I haven't ridden the bikes you have, but the
> non-rive bikes I've ridden don't even compare to the "invisible" wonder of
> my Riv. bikes (Hunqapillar and Quickbeam). The ride, for me, is far more
> fun, no matter the distance.
>
> "If I pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have
> provided?"
> Grant's bikes have an inherently wide window of usability, which is
> utterly counter to the niche purposing of most modern bikes. That said, the
> Rodeo likely has the smallest window. I've heard it said the Quickbeam fits
> somewhere between the Rodeo and AHH. Presuming that is true, the window I
> ride the QB on ranges from smooth fast paved roads to remote and medium
> rough forest service roads/trails. I've taken it on more technical trails
> and it is definitely under biking, and fun in its own way as a "hone my
> skills" adventure. For myself, I'd choose the AHH.
>
> "Are there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a
> Riv locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?"
> I live in dry (as in not humid often) Colorado mountains. However, my
> Hunqapillar lives outside without cover on all bikepacking trips, a
> stunning number of which are half rain (enough that the tent fly is always
> wet). So far so good. Use frame saver, cover as you can, and enjoy!
>
> "I'm doubtful of that, but don't want to mistreat it either."
> It's a bike. Enjoy it. Use it. It will age wonderfully based on how you
> do. The only way to mistreat it is to not use it! Grin.
>
> "Any thing else I should consider?"
> Indubitably. Ultimately, however, the answer is to get the best match you
> can and ride and learn from there. The experience will teach you more than
> the mind-spinning fretting beforehand. And all the mind-spinning fretting I
> did would have been far easier if I'd just spoken to Grant and Co. once and
> let them run with it and ridden what they sent me. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>>
>> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer
>> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I
>> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are
>> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv
>> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but
>> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>>
>> Thanks for any advice you have.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

Brian,
Thanks for that info.  I think the possibility of maybe wanting a rack in
future may rule out the Roadeo.  I don't know that I'll want racks, but
it's certainly possible.  So, I think this narrows down my choice to the
AHH.  Yeah.  One more decision done.  :)

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 7:15 AM, Brian Campbell 
wrote:

> I have had an AHH for 5 years now. I love the bike. It has been built up
> in many configurations and handled all of them very well. Currently, it is
> set up for Commuting/Road/Rando riding. All in minus. repair kit it, weighs
> 24.9 pounds (lights/fenders/ pedals/ water bottle cages and Brooks b17
> included). With out the dyno hub/fenders and lights it would be pretty
> close to a Roadeo in total weight. My point being is that it is easier to
> make your AHH, Roadeo-like that it is to make your Roadeo, AHH-like.
>
> In addition, the AHH also for racks and carrying stuff where the Roadeo is
> not designed with those things in mind. Both are great bikes but he AHH
> give you more flexibility as your needs change.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

Shoji,
I did take a look at those, quite a bit actually.  I haven’t moved on the
Roadeo for a couple of reasons.  They show the PBH for that one goes up to
82, while my PBH is 83.8.  I also had not yet decided on a Roadeo over a
AHH.  The blue 55cm Sam would fit, but I excluded it also, at least for
now.  This is a dream bike for me.  I don’t really want to compromise on
it.  If I were willing to compromise, it wouldn’t have to be a Riv either.
I’ve been that route already.  When I can get the Roadeo or AHH dream bike,
I’m not sure I want to settle on the Sam without a really good reason for
doing that.  I don’t have sufficient reason yet.

For the rides I’m doing now, they are mostly tooling around on a paved
trail or around town just to get exercise.  I want to expand that and do
more of Fidalgo Island where I am, over into Skagit valley some, and maybe
over on some of the other islands.  But, I want something that is just a
bit more fun that I feel on the AWOL when I do it.

As for possible theft, it is possible, but probably not likely.  There are
some other long term RVers around me along with video recording.  If
someone where to want to steal it, they would have bring tools to cut it
loose  The AWOL is locked to the cabana post with a heavy cable that passes
through the frame through a couple of slits in the cover.  You can see that
in the picture I linked above.  For a Riv, I would upgrade the locking
cable to a nice U-Lock and chain with pitlocks for the wheels and seat.  My
Ortleib handlebar bag is detachable and is stored in the RV.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 7:11 AM, Shoji Takahashi 
wrote:

> Hi Tim,
> Have you considered any of the "Ready to Ride" Rivs? In your size, there's
> currently:
> Sam Blue 55cm Demo (drop bars, bar-end shifters)
> Sam Blue 51cm Demo (drop bars, bar-end shifters)
> Roadeo Hot Blue 55cm Demo (drop bars, brifters)
> Protoveloosa 54.7cm (Bosco bullmoose, thumbies)
> (maybe others).
>
> Maybe I missed it-- what sorts of rides are you doing now? Would like to
> do in the near future? Are you set on drop bars or have you considered more
> upright setups?
>
> Setups-- my Hunqapillar has bar ends or thumbies (depending on hbar), and
> my AHH has down-tube shifters. Most of the time, bar ends or thumbies are
> much easier to use than down tubes. Hard to beat the look of down tubes,
> IMHO, tho.
>
> You can also consider thumbies or stem-mounted shifters (in addition to
> bar ends or brifters).
>
> Wear issues: as long as the bike is out of the rain when stored, I
> wouldn't worry too much. Are you concerned about theft?
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:38:33 PM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
>> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
>> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
>> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
>> was sort of rivish.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>>
>> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
>> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
>> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
>> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
>> definitely not rivish.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>>
>> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
>> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
>> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
>> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
>> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
>> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
>> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks
>> without having to change frames.
>>
>> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two
>> mentioned.  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was
>> more modern with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs
>> and SRAM setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much,
>> I like the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It
>> looks clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I
>> expect that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But,
>> using DT shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work
>> with an 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and
>> cons of each.
>>
>> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some
>> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>>
>> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 6:18 AM, Belopsky  wrote:

> As to wear issues or weather, I wouldn't want to leave an AHH outside for
> long for many reasons...One of the reasons I sold my Hillborne was because
> I was commuting to work and it was too pretty to lock up, and bringing it
> in was annoying - theft isn't a huge problem here but still  the bike got a
> lot of notice..
>

For weather, though my AWOL is outside, it is under a cover, which is under
a cabana, which has a low wall that blocks most things from the bike.  The
open side of the cabana is towards the RV, which can block some wind from
that direction.  So, though it is outside, it is not overly exposed.
Here’s a pic of the AWOL stored this way.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/27242013406/in/album-72157644371355428/

If storing a Riv like this results in problems, I could always put a large
storage locker under the cabana to put the bike in.  Some RVers also have a
utility trailer on their site for storing things.  I'm not quite ready for
that yet, but it is an option if I need it.

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Don Compton

Amen to your post. I am an old roadie ( 64 ). My Roadeo is my 4th Riv. I 
have ridden some of my friends carbon bikes and they are wonderful. But, 
with my age and bad back, it's all about handling and comfort. And I love 
the lugged steel frames. GO RIVENDELL !!!

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 5:23:51 PM UTC-7, Zach Kahl wrote:
>
> What a great thread. I would say the worst thing about buying a Rivendell 
> is that every option is a win. That said, people who ride Riv (in my 
> opinion) know exactly what type of riding they are wanting to do and then 
> pick out which bike is best for that. Most all of them are going to attach 
> some weight to the bike(s), which makes the Roadeo kind of a niche bike 
> once you already have a Riv that will allow you to go on a tour. Since you 
> said you want to have only one bike, I would take a strong look at the AHH 
> or an Appaloosa. 
>
> I am on a 62 Hunq and I am 6'6" with a bad back. I still built it with DT 
> shifters and that is a decision I made and have not looked back on for a 
> second. The brainlessness that happens once I got used to the reach make 
> being on the bike very natural for me and allowed be to acquire the feeling 
> that makes a Rivendell so dreamy once it is dialed in (I have more trouble 
> finding the right bottle cage than I do finding my shifters).
>
> I have heard everyone hear say supporting things about both of the bikes 
> you started out talking on; with some additions on your first 2 choices. I 
> would recommend cancelling the Roadeo and look at the other options. I 
> would not go 11sp because I think that these bikes work great as 9sp or 
> less (with a triple front ring you can run the whole gamut with the proper 
> cassette).
>
> I would say that you are only at the beginning stage of making your 
> decision and once you know all of the choices front and back you will make 
> your choice of what you want and will ride. This will make the first day of 
> ownership be just as special as every day you ride the bike. I would be 
> surprised if you bought another bike ever again, and if you did I am 
> certain it would be another Rivendell.
>
> Buy something that has tire clearance, buy something that can accept a 
> rack. Enjoy yourself and have no regrets!!
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Wow.  So many great comments.  Thanks everyone.  It's given me a lot to
think about.  I'll try to reply to a bunch of the comments.

Thanks again.

Tim

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 7:14 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
> was sort of rivish.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>
> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
> definitely not rivish.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>
> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks
> without having to change frames.
>
> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two mentioned.
> My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was more modern
> with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs and SRAM
> setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much, I like
> the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It looks
> clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I expect
> that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But, using DT
> shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work with an
> 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and cons of
> each.
>
> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some
> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>
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[RBW] Re: Sugino chainring swap as easy as this Rivideo makes it look?

Yep. You'll need Allen wrenches to fit the center crank bolt, plus the 
chainring bolts.

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[RBW] Re: Sugino chainring swap as easy as this Rivideo makes it look?

So for my Sugino XD600 crank and my Shimano square taper bb spindle I just 
need this, an allen wrench, and a chain ring bolt wrench to get the job 
done?

 
http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-square-taper-cranks-ccp-22?category=Crank
 
& Bottom Bracket

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

It is a Compass Loup Loup pass standard casing tire...maybe I'll give it 
through the weekend, and if it doesn't flat and require a field repair I 
will just replace it.

Or, I could just do it now and cut it in half to see how close I got for 
future reference. 

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[RBW] Chainrings...when to replace?

Juust starting to see a hint of shark toothing on my Sugino middle ring 
and big ring...

Noticing that dropping from the big ring onto the middle ring with my brand 
new chain hesitates sometimes, like the big ring goes around 1/2 turn 
before releasing it...jammed once into the derailer body on the way down 
once...didn't do this with my old chain...


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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Daniel D.

 Wow...

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Tallux Stem 26.0 mm - 7 cm

2016-05-26 Thread Reid

Sent a PM.

Reid

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 5:21:45 PM UTC-7, S. Greco wrote:

> the Technomic is indeed a 7.
>
> - Steve
>
>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Massively upgraded Appaloosa

2016-05-26 Thread Zach Kahl

Am I wrong to understand that you bought new brakes when all you needed to 
do in the first place was replace your housing?

Thanks for the updates with your journey of the Appaloosa, it's been a fun 
one to watch.

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread LeahFoy

Yes, yes, yes. Mark's response hits on another thing that pinched a nerve with 
me - these weird proclamations of all the benefits of this new tech. "We were 
able to save 40grams!" and other silly remarks makes me feel a little sick to 
my stomach. When I look at the original line of happy, thoughtful children's 
bikes, I feel a little betrayed by the company's new line of sinister-looking, 
techy, bragadocious bikes. Islabikes can make whatever they like, but I guess I 
felt led to believe they embraced a different philosophy. And I felt so good 
buying from a bike company that stood for something practical and thoughtful in 
a world of commercial, race-centric bikes. 

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[RBW] FS: 26" wheel set: Deore LX/Mavic/Ritchey

2016-05-26 Thread Beth H

Mavic rims, Deore LX hubs (rear hub 135mm, comes w/7-sp cassette and spacer 
but you could swap in an 8 if you wanted), 
Ritchey tires showing age but still good tread. 
Wheels in good used condition. Priced to move - $60 for the set.
*Need to be rid of these by Weds Jun 1. *
Email periwinklekog-at-yahoo-dot-com if you want them. Pickup In NE 
Portland (OR), OR if I must, I can ship in usa for additional $35.
Photos here: www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/26669447013/

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch




I agree 100% with Leah. Disappointing.

I bought an Islabike for  my 6 year old in March. He loves the bike. I will 
say that if they were offering the "pro" series at that time, I would have 
seriously considered going in another direction.

For me the issue is not necessarily the safety of carbon--I will assume 
that is really no more of an issue these days than any other material. (but 
carbon steerer? Really?)

For me the issue is the blatant attempt to make kids want the "pro stuff." 
Now, companies have long used pro names to sell merch, from baseball gloves 
to sneakers to bicycles (Sears had a "Ted Williams" bicycle.) But the 
ever-increasing specialization and technization of professional racing 
bicycles makes it kind of absurd to create a kid's bike in this image. Here 
is the bike for the Age 4 set (the only one without disc brakes, by the 
way):
Cnoc 16 Pro Series 

Age 4+ / $1199.99

 *The first bike we all dreamed of and the most important bike you’ll ever 
buy.*

*The Cnoc 16 Pro Series is a superb introduction to riding for the young 
cyclist in your life. Stunning specifications and features will give them 
an unforgettable experience at one of the most important stages of their 
cycling development.*


Riggght. The main takeaway a young cyclist will get during this "most 
important stage of their cycling development" is that, to really succeed, 
you need to buy the bling, baby. But hey, we need to create good little 
consumers, and what better time in life to sink your brand in?


In the How We've Used Carbon Fiber section, there's this:
>
> This decision to adopt the use of carbon fiber has lead to us designing 
> and developing our own range of perfectly proportioned, ultra-light forks, 
> specifically tailored to work perfectly with our Pro Series frames.
>
> The Pro Series forks are constructed of Toray T700s standard modulus 
> unidirectional carbon fiber. ..blah blah technomumbojumbo blah blah...
>
>
> *Through manipulation of the fork shape we have been able to achieve the 
> ride qualities we were looking for.* (My emphasis) Our exclusive 
> monocoque design features gently curved fork legs which reduce in size 
> towards the center allowing the fork to flex evenly along its entire length 
> for ride comfort, while flattened profiles retain steering sharpness
>
>
> By using multiple unidirectional carbon fiber layers in varying degrees 
> throughout the fork we can also adjust the fork characteristicsblah 
> blah multidirectional blah blah layup...blah blah
>
> For the ultimate in lightweight, the forks feature full carbon 
> construction of the legs, crown and steerer. Because they are designed for 
> lighter riders we have been able to build them significantly lighter than 
> equivalent adults models whilst still being strong enough to withstand 
> rigorous loads — over and above testing...
>
>
> We’ve incorporated a neat internal routing for the brake hose on our disc 
> brake models, keeping the cable out of harms way and removing the need for 
> a screw-on clamp.
>

Seriously? How would you know that you've achieved "the ride qualities 
'you' were looking for?" By tooling around the test track on a 16" wheeled 
bicycle? Come on. Keeping the cable out of harm's way? What about the 
revolving discs that the pros recently decided to ban? Sheesh.

I had to think long and hard before laying out in the neighborhood of $600 
for a bike my 6-year-old will outgrown in 2 years max. I did it because he 
has shown a real interest and enjoyment in bicycling, and it is something 
we do together, and the bike's features had a true cost for benefit logic. 
Plus I figured a chunk of that would be recouped at resale, or his younger 
cousin would ride it. $1200 for a 4-year-old's bicycle is, honestly, nuts. 
And not just because it is out of my price range. My son's mother wanted to 
buy him the same bicycle to have when he is with her! I said please, no, 
let's just get the bike back and forth. What kind of values would we be 
teaching by getting him two of the same bicycle? Or a "pro" bike that looks 
just as menacing and depressing as today's "real race bicycle" and goes 
well above and beyond what any kid needs (or really, should have) at that 
age? The "regular" Islabikes come in bright, fun kid colors. The "pro" 
bikes come in stealth matte black with blood red highlighting.

I understand there are arguments for the existence of these things--hey, if 
you have the money and you want the "best" why not? Hey, life is 
competition, give the kid an edge. Hey, why not emulate your "heroes. "Hey, 
why not rent that baby elephant for your kid's 7th birthday party. Hey, 
etc. etc. 

It goes without saying that this is strictly my point of view. I think in 
another post about the Islabikes I mused about a collaboration between 
Rivendell and Islabike.

[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Zach Kahl

What a great thread. I would say the worst thing about buying a Rivendell 
is that every option is a win. That said, people who ride Riv (in my 
opinion) know exactly what type of riding they are wanting to do and then 
pick out which bike is best for that. Most all of them are going to attach 
some weight to the bike(s), which makes the Roadeo kind of a niche bike 
once you already have a Riv that will allow you to go on a tour. Since you 
said you want to have only one bike, I would take a strong look at the AHH 
or an Appaloosa. 

I am on a 62 Hunq and I am 6'6" with a bad back. I still built it with DT 
shifters and that is a decision I made and have not looked back on for a 
second. The brainlessness that happens once I got used to the reach make 
being on the bike very natural for me and allowed be to acquire the feeling 
that makes a Rivendell so dreamy once it is dialed in (I have more trouble 
finding the right bottle cage than I do finding my shifters).

I have heard everyone hear say supporting things about both of the bikes 
you started out talking on; with some additions on your first 2 choices. I 
would recommend cancelling the Roadeo and look at the other options. I 
would not go 11sp because I think that these bikes work great as 9sp or 
less (with a triple front ring you can run the whole gamut with the proper 
cassette).

I would say that you are only at the beginning stage of making your 
decision and once you know all of the choices front and back you will make 
your choice of what you want and will ride. This will make the first day of 
ownership be just as special as every day you ride the bike. I would be 
surprised if you bought another bike ever again, and if you did I am 
certain it would be another Rivendell.

Buy something that has tire clearance, buy something that can accept a 
rack. Enjoy yourself and have no regrets!!

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Tallux Stem 26.0 mm - 7 cm

2016-05-26 Thread S. Greco

the Technomic is indeed a 7.

- Steve


>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Ibex and Wooly Warm, New and used (lightly)

2016-05-26 Thread Joel Stern

Sorry, I will add, all Large, not fitted, nice normal fit..not sure what
Ibex calls them.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 7:56 PM, Julian  wrote:

> Sizes?
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 6:06:17 PM UTC-5, Joel Stern wrote:
>>
>> I just got done cleaning out my cedar chest, when I was working I bought
>> a lot of ibex and wooly warm that I liked. Since I have not been cycling
>> these things are not really needed, I have set aside what I want, need and
>> am putting up for sale both new and used ibex. I will post links to photo
>> bucket
>>
>> New Ibex and wooly warm
>>
>> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20NEW?sort=4=1
>>
>> Used (mostly gently)
>>
>> There are some used Brooks Brothers and Nordstroms there, if interested
>> ask about those
>>
>>
>> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20and%20BB%20and%20Nordstrom%20used?sort=2=1
>>
>> I looked at the prices of new ibex and it seems that these are going for
>> $65 to $72 for SS, and $75 for Long Sleeve
>> I would want to price for a single item at $35 plus shipping new and
>> 27.50 for the lightweight used, the heavy weight a bit more.  If you buy  a
>> bunch I will discount and shipping is extra, whatever it costs me.
>>
>> Please let me know off list if you are interested and if my pricing seems
>> ok.. I always try to give good pricing and over the years I think I have.
>>
>> I also have 4 FW's I have to get some photos of, will do as soon as I can
>> and post separately
>>
>> Thanks, Joel
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Ibex and Wooly Warm, New and used (lightly)

2016-05-26 Thread Joel Stern

Sorry about the sizes being left out, they are all Large, none are fitted, 
these are nice fitting tops...

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I just got done cleaning out my cedar chest, when I was working I bought a 
> lot of ibex and wooly warm that I liked. Since I have not been cycling 
> these things are not really needed, I have set aside what I want, need and 
> am putting up for sale both new and used ibex. I will post links to photo 
> bucket
>
> New Ibex and wooly warm
>
> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20NEW?sort=4=1
>
> Used (mostly gently)
>
> There are some used Brooks Brothers and Nordstroms there, if interested 
> ask about those
>
>
> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20and%20BB%20and%20Nordstrom%20used?sort=2=1
>
> I looked at the prices of new ibex and it seems that these are going for 
> $65 to $72 for SS, and $75 for Long Sleeve
> I would want to price for a single item at $35 plus shipping new and 27.50 
> for the lightweight used, the heavy weight a bit more.  If you buy  a bunch 
> I will discount and shipping is extra, whatever it costs me.
>
> Please let me know off list if you are interested and if my pricing seems 
> ok.. I always try to give good pricing and over the years I think I have.
>
> I also have 4 FW's I have to get some photos of, will do as soon as I can 
> and post separately
>
> Thanks, Joel
>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread David Person

My two cents is that I would stay away from any set-up that involved a 
Travel Agent.  Tried them and did not like the result.

David

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:34:04 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> My largely uneducated guess would be no. These tend to be used on bikes 
> with side-pulls or cantilevers, which use shorter cable travel than 
> v-brakes. Also, my experience with road levers that supposedly work with 
> V's is that you have to set the pads very close and hope it works. She 
> might be better off using whatever levers she likes with a Travel Agent 
> doohickey.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Ibex and Wooly Warm, New and used (lightly)

2016-05-26 Thread Julian

Sizes? 




On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 6:06:17 PM UTC-5, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I just got done cleaning out my cedar chest, when I was working I bought a 
> lot of ibex and wooly warm that I liked. Since I have not been cycling 
> these things are not really needed, I have set aside what I want, need and 
> am putting up for sale both new and used ibex. I will post links to photo 
> bucket
>
> New Ibex and wooly warm
>
> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20NEW?sort=4=1
>
> Used (mostly gently)
>
> There are some used Brooks Brothers and Nordstroms there, if interested 
> ask about those
>
>
> http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20and%20BB%20and%20Nordstrom%20used?sort=2=1
>
> I looked at the prices of new ibex and it seems that these are going for 
> $65 to $72 for SS, and $75 for Long Sleeve
> I would want to price for a single item at $35 plus shipping new and 27.50 
> for the lightweight used, the heavy weight a bit more.  If you buy  a bunch 
> I will discount and shipping is extra, whatever it costs me.
>
> Please let me know off list if you are interested and if my pricing seems 
> ok.. I always try to give good pricing and over the years I think I have.
>
> I also have 4 FW's I have to get some photos of, will do as soon as I can 
> and post separately
>
> Thanks, Joel
>

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

There's frugal & there's foolish. It sounds like you're getting close to 
crossing the line. Replace when convenient. Don't wait for critical.

Doug p

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

2016-05-26 Thread Garth

  
   FWIW ,  I rode some Vittoria Hypers well down to the casing showing 
without any issue at all, so any theory I had about it was thrown out the 
window :)  

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[RBW] FS: Ibex and Wooly Warm, New and used (lightly)

2016-05-26 Thread Joel Stern

I just got done cleaning out my cedar chest, when I was working I bought a
lot of ibex and wooly warm that I liked. Since I have not been cycling
these things are not really needed, I have set aside what I want, need and
am putting up for sale both new and used ibex. I will post links to photo
bucket

New Ibex and wooly warm

http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20NEW?sort=4=1

Used (mostly gently)

There are some used Brooks Brothers and Nordstroms there, if interested ask
about those

http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Ibex%20and%20BB%20and%20Nordstrom%20used?sort=2=1

I looked at the prices of new ibex and it seems that these are going for
$65 to $72 for SS, and $75 for Long Sleeve
I would want to price for a single item at $35 plus shipping new and 27.50
for the lightweight used, the heavy weight a bit more. If you buy a bunch
I will discount and shipping is extra, whatever it costs me.

Please let me know off list if you are interested and if my pricing seems
ok.. I always try to give good pricing and over the years I think I have.

I also have 4 FW's I have to get some photos of, will do as soon as I can
and post separately

Thanks, Joel

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

2016-05-26 Thread Frank Brose

Replace it. You got the goody out of that tire.

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 4:51:49 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Rear tire on Bleriot. Tread bald down center for a while now. Front tire 
> still has plenty of tread.
>
> I inspect the tire every few rides.
>
> *Is it safe to ride down 'til the tread just barely starts showing? To the 
> first peek of tan color? Or is the tire gonna rip open at that point and 
> better to swap out now?*
>
> Manufacturer/distributor/retailer told me I have about 1k left on it about 
> 1k ago.
>
> Waiting until casing starts to show or get next flat to replace it with 
> new tire. I want to get my money's worth out of the tire (really expensive) 
> and I am not a penny pinching person at all, and usually swap out tires 
> faster, but I... just...can't bring myself to replace the tire until 
> these conditions are met because the tire was so expensive.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

2016-05-26 Thread Steve Palincsar


I think at that point, you went too far.

On 05/26/2016 05:52 PM, Lungimsam wrote:
Sorry, I mean is it safe to ride until the */casing/* starts peeking 
through the tread...

-


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[RBW] Re: Tire wear question. When to replace?

Sorry, I mean is it safe to ride until the *casing* starts peeking through 
the tread... 

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[RBW] Tire wear question. When to replace?

Rear tire on Bleriot. Tread bald down center for a while now. Front tire 
still has plenty of tread.

I inspect the tire every few rides.

*Is it safe to ride down 'til the tread just barely starts showing? To the 
first peek of tan color? Or is the tire gonna rip open at that point and 
better to swap out now?*

Manufacturer/distributor/retailer told me I have about 1k left on it about 
1k ago.

Waiting until casing starts to show or get next flat to replace it with new 
tire. I want to get my money's worth out of the tire (really expensive) and 
I am not a penny pinching person at all, and usually swap out tires faster, 
but I... just...can't bring myself to replace the tire until these 
conditions are met because the tire was so expensive.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Ron Mc

Modern bike has a $20 discount and free shipping on the Paul cross levers

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Re: [RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Steve Palincsar




On 05/26/2016 01:09 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Shoji is correct that long-pull "interrupter" levers exist.  I've used 
the Pauls, and figure somebody must make a cheap long pull version.


The Paul lever works both ways.  You move an adjustment to switch.

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Re: [RBW] Indian food run and Goose face-off!

We have a big goose over-population problem in my town (Cedar Rapids, IA),
especially on the bike paths near the river.  Go figure!  But it's become
serious enough that the city is planning on hunting or trapping many of the
geese (in rural land on the edge of the city) and donating them to food
pantries.

The path near Cedar Lake is completely infested with geese and goslings,
and the path is totally covered in "goose grease".  It's almost the same
color and almost as slippery as Park/Paul grease.  A couple people have
wiped out on the "goose grease" and hurt themselves.

The geese parents are very defensive when they have goslings (they're
pretty passive the rest of the year).  They get all the food they want from
the greenery on the edge of the path (I call them "flying cows" for their
size and grazing habits).

I have good luck diverting them off the path by dinging my bell and
"honking" at them with my voice.  They'll still hiss at me as I pass, but
at least they're doing it from the grassy verge instead of the middle of
the path.

Best of luck,
Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 3:41 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> One of my favorite things to do is meet my wife at out favorite Indian
> restaurants for lunch buffet.
>
> I ride my bike there and back, and she drives there and back. Suburban
> roads and MUP. She encourages me to ride all the time so it is nice having
> a wife that is understanding and encouraging about bike riding.
>
> Today, I took a pic of the bike locked up in place, and then, on the ride
> home, pics of some geese and their gooselets on the path and the adults
> hissed at me and wouldn't let me pass. The babies and parents walked
> towards me. I was wondering if they wanted food or if they were just
> standing their ground. I figured the parents were going to be aggressive
> because the gooselets were with them and I didn't want to get bit, or upset
> them any more so I turned around and went around the other side of the lake.
>
> Enjoy the pics...
>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Steve Palincsar




On 05/26/2016 01:25 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Steve P.  runs barcons with housing under the tape all the way to the 
tops on at least one bike.


Two bikes are set up that way, and it does not affect cable life.


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[RBW] F/S Shimano 9 speed bar end shifters friction only

2016-05-26 Thread Kurt Manley

A set of 9 speed bar ends that don't index very well but would be good for 
someone who runs friction. 

I recently purchased these shifters from another lister who used them in 
friction mode. He didn't know that the indexing isn't good and I needed 
them for a friends bike who needs indexing. He's offered to make good but I 
thought the easiest place to start would be to see if someone here want's 
em as friction shifters. They have scratches on the out sides too.

$30 shipped

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[RBW] Re: freaking gorgeous

2016-05-26 Thread Ron Mc

way cool - I guess it's Miamisburg that is close to Midletown

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 12:29:25 PM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:
>
> "... Back to the Flying Merkel, made in Miami, Ohio ..."
>
> I grew up in the area of East-Central Indiana/West-Central Ohio and 
> something about this just didn't click.  Then I looked more closely at the 
> head badge and saw that it said "Miami Cycle Mfg. Co." in "Middletown, 
> Ohio."  Now it makes sense.
>
> Back to the original post and photo for a moment; I was wondering how a 
> bike that old would have a chainring with 1/2" pitch gearing.  Then I 
> looked at the photo album of the original, unrestored bike and indeed it 
> was set up with 1" pitch.  It looks like someone chained the chain and 
> chainring (and probably cog on the rear hub) at some point.  Not that this 
> is a bad thing, but it deviates from the original manufactured condition a 
> bit.  'Course, I doubt if one could even get 1" pitch components anywhere 
> nowadays so if they were in bad shape it would've had to be done.
>
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 6:48:23 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> they actually still are, currently dba Henry Repeating Arms.  
>> Back to the Flying Merkel, made in Miami, Ohio (no relation to Iver 
>> Johnson)
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> how about this head badge?  
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:26:28 PM UTC-5, bo richardson wrote:
>>>
>>> you probably know this already
>>> but iver johnson was mostly or also a firearms manufacturer
>>
>>

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[RBW] Clem Velo saddle model ? Maybe ISO one ....

2016-05-26 Thread Garth


   Anyone know the exact model number/name of the Velo that comes with the 
builds ?  About how wide is it in mm's ?   If it's in the 170+ range and 
you have one not being used I may be interested in buying it . 

  Thank you ! 

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Jack B

Wouldn't the JoeApp accept canti brakes? Then you could use road levers 
with interrupters.

I really like having the cross levers on my drop bars it's reassuring to 
know that you can brake in a pinch. But I find that I rarely use the rear 
brake, so it seems like if the Pauls are too spendy then you could just get 
the left one and use the road levers when you really need more stopping 
power. I'm also surprised by how easy it is to brake "on the hoods".



On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:33:12 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Mini-V's are worth considering most of the time, but given the plump tires 
> on an Appaloosa, you should probably rule them out.  Brakes in the category 
> "mini-V" usually won't clear a tire bigger than 45mm and forget about 
> fenders.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:22:53 AM UTC-7, doc wrote:
>>
>> I have used Cane Creek interrupter levers with V brakes.  While not the 
>> best for stopping power because of the shorter cable pull, they will slow 
>> the bike if the pads are set fairly close.  The "regular" levers were the 
>> long pulls offered by Tektro, and one could feel the difference.  Another 
>> option would be to use mini V's, which still have decent stopping power and 
>> don't require the longer cable pull.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread David Banzer

Tektro makes them or made them at some point. Here's an eBay listing for 
them: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tektro-RL740-Road-Bicycle-Bike-V-Brake-Levers-Silver-/361568158165?hash=item542f2441d5:g:rDYAAMXQLw1Rz0YG
I vaguely recall Riv stocking these at some point in the past. 
David
Chicago


On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:22:46 AM UTC-5, Brad Arnold wrote:
>
> Hello All:
>
> My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
> been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
> bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
> secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
> the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
> one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
> (Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brad
>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread 'doc' via RBW Owners Bunch

True.  Mine just cleared the 42c tires.

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 1:33:12 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Mini-V's are worth considering most of the time, but given the plump tires 
> on an Appaloosa, you should probably rule them out.  Brakes in the category 
> "mini-V" usually won't clear a tire bigger than 45mm and forget about 
> fenders.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:22:53 AM UTC-7, doc wrote:
>>
>> I have used Cane Creek interrupter levers with V brakes.  While not the 
>> best for stopping power because of the shorter cable pull, they will slow 
>> the bike if the pads are set fairly close.  The "regular" levers were the 
>> long pulls offered by Tektro, and one could feel the difference.  Another 
>> option would be to use mini V's, which still have decent stopping power and 
>> don't require the longer cable pull.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread sameness

Tektro makes/made the RL741 lever for V-brakes. I am 92% certain I have 
seen a Cane Creek-branded version at some point as well.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Garth


 By golly yes !  It IS going to be alright .  It's just another 
material to choose from. Obviously everyone who owns a carbon isn't 
crashing and burning nor will they be .  

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:56:50 AM UTC-4, Skenry wrote:
>
> Carbon is much much sturdier than you think.Carbon is also much more 
> trusted everywhere else in life than it is on this list.By the mode of 
> thinking around here, carbon would also have no place on a seatpost, 
> mountainbike, or a folder, or a car, airframe, in the military 
> It'll be fine. 
>
> You'd be surprised at how overbuilt cheap carbon like that really is.
> Top end racing carbon parts wouldn't be good for children, but then again, 
> neither would top end aluminum or lightweight steel.   Carbon forks on 
> those cheap bikes, and by that I'm referring to anything retailing below 
> about $1500, are really study.   Many of those forks aren't even that much 
> lighter.   They are built sturdy, maybe tapered and aero, but they are 
> built like a tank.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Bill Lindsay

Mini-V's are worth considering most of the time, but given the plump tires 
on an Appaloosa, you should probably rule them out.  Brakes in the category 
"mini-V" usually won't clear a tire bigger than 45mm and forget about 
fenders.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:22:53 AM UTC-7, doc wrote:
>
> I have used Cane Creek interrupter levers with V brakes.  While not the 
> best for stopping power because of the shorter cable pull, they will slow 
> the bike if the pads are set fairly close.  The "regular" levers were the 
> long pulls offered by Tektro, and one could feel the difference.  Another 
> option would be to use mini V's, which still have decent stopping power and 
> don't require the longer cable pull.
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: freaking gorgeous

2016-05-26 Thread George Schick

"... Back to the Flying Merkel, made in Miami, Ohio ..."

I grew up in the area of East-Central Indiana/West-Central Ohio and 
something about this just didn't click.  Then I looked more closely at the 
head badge and saw that it said "Miami Cycle Mfg. Co." in "Middletown, 
Ohio."  Now it makes sense.

Back to the original post and photo for a moment; I was wondering how a 
bike that old would have a chainring with 1/2" pitch gearing.  Then I 
looked at the photo album of the original, unrestored bike and indeed it 
was set up with 1" pitch.  It looks like someone chained the chain and 
chainring (and probably cog on the rear hub) at some point.  Not that this 
is a bad thing, but it deviates from the original manufactured condition a 
bit.  'Course, I doubt if one could even get 1" pitch components anywhere 
nowadays so if they were in bad shape it would've had to be done.

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 6:48:23 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> they actually still are, currently dba Henry Repeating Arms.  
> Back to the Flying Merkel, made in Miami, Ohio (no relation to Iver 
> Johnson)
>
>
> 
>
> how about this head badge?  
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:26:28 PM UTC-5, bo richardson wrote:
>>
>> you probably know this already
>> but iver johnson was mostly or also a firearms manufacturer
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

With four kids life is a wee menagerie! Grin. And we pray for more!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-6, doc wrote:
>
> Ha!  That was my first thought until I opened the link.  doc, father of 
> Hazard.
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 5:51:31 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Are those really your kids' names?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Bill Lindsay

Steve P.  runs barcons with housing under the tape all the way to the tops 
on at least one bike.  My Atlantis has a DT shifter on the left, and an 
8-speed indexed barcon on the right, with housing under the tape all the 
way to the tops.  

Another alternative that keeps housing out of the way is stem-shifters. 
 Like this:  Stem Shifter Setup 


Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:17:50 AM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
> "Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, 
> rack/bag, handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable 
> routing.  If barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead 
> of big and loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat 
> and tidy routing may affect cable life."
>
> We had a thread a while back on routing the bar end shifter cables under 
> the tape that may be worth searching for.  IIRC the consensus was it was a 
> successful approach.  My wife's Atlantis came with drops with the cables 
> under the tape, exiting near the stem. Quite tidy, allows her a choice of 
> front bags (currently an Acorn that nearly fills between the drops). n 
> She's had the bike now well over 5 years & I may have replaced cables once, 
> just on general principles (we bought it used).  Rivendell could also tell 
> you what they've done.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:21:22 AM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end 
>>> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I 
>>> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any 
>>> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be 
>>> aware of.
>>>
>>
>> Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, 
>> rack/bag, handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable 
>> routing.  If barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead 
>> of big and loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat 
>> and tidy routing may affect cable life.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread 'doc' via RBW Owners Bunch

I have used Cane Creek interrupter levers with V brakes.  While not the 
best for stopping power because of the shorter cable pull, they will slow 
the bike if the pads are set fairly close.  The "regular" levers were the 
long pulls offered by Tektro, and one could feel the difference.  Another 
option would be to use mini V's, which still have decent stopping power and 
don't require the longer cable pull.


On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 11:22:46 AM UTC-4, Brad Arnold wrote:

> Hello All:
>
> My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
> been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
> bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
> secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
> the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
> one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
> (Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brad
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Belopsky

I ran my barends under the tape - no issues

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 11:21:22 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield  > wrote:
>
>> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end 
>> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I 
>> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any 
>> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be 
>> aware of.
>>
>
> Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, rack/bag, 
> handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable routing.  If 
> barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead of big and 
> loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat and tidy 
> routing may affect cable life.
>
> Tim
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

"Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, rack/bag, 
handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable routing.  If 
barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead of big and 
loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat and tidy 
routing may affect cable life."

We had a thread a while back on routing the bar end shifter cables under 
the tape that may be worth searching for.  IIRC the consensus was it was a 
successful approach.  My wife's Atlantis came with drops with the cables 
under the tape, exiting near the stem. Quite tidy, allows her a choice of 
front bags (currently an Acorn that nearly fills between the drops). n 
She's had the bike now well over 5 years & I may have replaced cables once, 
just on general principles (we bought it used).  Rivendell could also tell 
you what they've done.  

dougP

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:21:22 AM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield  > wrote:
>
>> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end 
>> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I 
>> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any 
>> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be 
>> aware of.
>>
>
> Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, rack/bag, 
> handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable routing.  If 
> barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead of big and 
> loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat and tidy 
> routing may affect cable life.
>
> Tim
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread 'doc' via RBW Owners Bunch

Ha!  That was my first thought until I opened the link.  doc, father of 
Hazard.

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 5:51:31 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Are those really your kids' names?

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Bill Lindsay

Shoji is correct that long-pull "interrupter" levers exist.  I've used the 
Pauls, and figure somebody must make a cheap long pull version.  

Since you also need to think about shifter  placement, and since you could 
easily sell your take-off set of Choco Bullmooses right here on this group, 
maybe your wife should give some thought to just moving to Riv Bullmoose 
bars.  Then she could use the brakelevers and shiftlevers she already has, 
would have the feeling of being on the tops, and will probably never miss 
the 0.1% of the time spent leaned way over in the drops.  

The bullmooses are out of stock now, but if you email spencer, I bet he 
could give you the latest.  Or you could try to set up a trade here on the 
list.  There's got to be somebody who wants to try out your Chocos.  

best

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:22:46 AM UTC-7, Brad Arnold wrote:
>
> Hello All:
>
> My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
> been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
> bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
> secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
> the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
> one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
> (Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brad
>

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Re: [RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

2016-05-26 Thread Robert F. Harrison

BTW - After hemming and hawing for a bit I've ordered a pair of the 3/4 El
Fito. They're really too heavy for me in Hawaii except for those rare cold
mornings. But I do travel to the mainland in early March every year so I
figure they'll get some use.

That's not why I'm sending this though - Ibex is now having their Memorial
Day sale with 20% selected items including bike liners and such.

Aloha,

Bob



On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 8:16 AM, Dan McNamara  wrote:

> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and
> tights on their website.
>
> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights.
>
> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling
> "pants" for cooler weather.
>
> Dan
>
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-- 
Robert Harrison
Honolulu, HI
rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.com
Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

Brad:

Another option to consider is either flat or slightly angled back bars.  I 
too don't care for the swept back bars due to wrist angle.  Since she 
spends most of time on the tops, try a bar first & you can use the existing 
controls. Personally I use Origin8 Space Bars on my Atlantis.  The angle 
back maybe 10-15 degrees.  Lots of people like flat bars too.  

dougP 

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 8:22:46 AM UTC-7, Brad Arnold wrote:
>
> Hello All:
>
> My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
> been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
> bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
> secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
> the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
> one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
> (Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brad
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Leah Peterson

We used to get going at speed on the bikes, jump off and watch to see how far 
the bikes would "ghost ride" before they crash-landed.  We jumped curbs, 
off-roaded into the coolies and ditched the bikes wherever we felt like it. We 
carried friends on the bars. Yeah, carbon would have been a mistake in my youth!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2016, at 9:43 AM, John Phillips  wrote:
> 
> I know carbon would not have held up to what we did as kids. 
> 
> We were monsters!
> 
> Our parents would have been foolish to spend extra cash on a bike with carbon 
> parts.
> 
> John
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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

If a bike is a throw away item rather than a pass it on item, perhaps (and 
if so, that is a whole other kettle of fish against CF). Still seems a big 
risk to take. A bike tumbling off the top of a dirt pile suddenly has 
significance it should never have.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:15:22 AM UTC-6, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Carbon's perfect for a kid's bike they'll outgrow it before the auto self 
> destruct timer grant talks about activates. 
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread John Phillips

I know carbon would not have held up to what we did as kids. 

We were monsters!

Our parents would have been foolish to spend extra cash on a bike with 
carbon parts.

John

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[RBW] Re: Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Shoji Takahashi

Paul Components has a cross lever that can be used short- or long-pull 
(with a change in the pivot): 
https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/cross-lever/

Not cheap at $120 for a pair. But, if you switch to cantilever, you could 
still use them. Also, MUSA, FWTW.

Good luck!
Shoji


On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 11:22:46 AM UTC-4, Brad Arnold wrote:
>
> Hello All:
>
> My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
> been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
> bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
> secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
> the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
> one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
> (Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brad
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Daniel D.

Carbon's perfect for a kid's bike they'll outgrow it before the auto self 
destruct timer grant talks about activates. 

>
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread LeahFoy

Oh my word - little darlings, right there!!!

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Toshi Takeuchi

I run 9 and 10-speed cassettes with bar end shifters.  With the silver
shifters it is friction, so I don't see why 10-speed wouldn't work (I use
silver shifters with 9-spd).  For my 10-speed there are microshift 10-speed
shifters--I prefer friction mode and reversed the shifters.  The 10-speed
cassette side now shifts the front deraileur just fine and the rear is on
friction.  Mark at Riv built it up that way for me and it works great.

I agree that the AHH would be a good choice if I had one bike.  I've ridden
it on single-track and on brevets and grocery runs with rear rack, so I've
had it do basically all I do on a bike...

Toshi

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[RBW] Re: Spring in CA

2016-05-26 Thread Surlyprof

Stunning photos! Thanks.

On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 7:07:17 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Howdy folks,
>
> Here are photos  of a trip 
> this past Spring inspired and aided by many of you. Thanks to all who 
> helped me put these routes together. 
>
> Best,
> Daniel
> Northeast Kingdom, VT
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Bianchi uses Dia-Compe (same internals as Silver) friction shifters with a 
10-speed cassette on their L'Eroica bike. Or you can use 10-speed indexed 
bar-ends, which would be my preference (front is still friction). I've pretty 
much walked away from rear friction at this point; at 54-years-old I've lost 
the fine hearing necessary to hear what's going on with the chain/cassette back 
there, and can't tell if I'm properly in gear anymore. I'm old!

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Tim-

*Regarding cable loops*:  there are several ways to run the shift cables
with bar-end shifters.

You can have the cables run in separate loops that stick out in front of
the head tube, with partial wrap or even no wrap at all.  These big loops
put the least friction on the shift cable, but they can get in the way of a
bag on top of the front wheel.

Or, you can wrap the cables under the tape up to the top of the bars, and
then have them exit and loop down do the cable stops on the down tube.
This method puts a couple more bends in the housing (possibly adding
friction) but keeps the cables out of the way of bags in front.

*Regarding brifters on Randonneur (or other flared bars)*:  I find that the
flare of the bar actually makes it EASIER to operate the shift paddle on
brifters.  My wrists hurt less because the angle is less severe.  I've used
old Shimano, old Campy, and new SRAM brifters on Nitto Randonneur B135s and
Salsa Cowchipper bars without issues.

*Regarding 10 speeds with friction bar-ends*:  I've successfully shifted a
9-speed cassette with Silver shifters, it wasn't that tricky.  Move the
lever until the chain moves, then stop.  Friction allows you to fine-tune
the derailer trim easily.

That said, when I changed my Riv over to a 10-speed cassette, I changed the
right bar-end out for a 10-speed indexed Shimano BS79 shifter.  I really
like the crisp, exact index action, and it only takes a turn or two on the
cable adjustment barrel once a year or so to keep the indexing tuned
perfectly.

I found that I liked the indexed bar-end so much that I switched the
9-speed bar-end on my vintage Schwinn KOM over from "friction" to "SIS".

Caveat: if you want a 10-speed bar-end that can do both friction and
indexed, you need to use the last-generation BS78 shifter.  The
current-generation BS79 shifter looks the same but has no friction option.

*Regarding your bike choice*:  I'm #225 and very happy with my Roadeo (I
picked up a used 2010 frame from a listmember this winter).  It rides great
and is not noodly.

But, the Roadeo is my 5th bike and is my least-ridden, because I've set it
up without racks, bags, or fenders.  My Riv Road Standard has a slightly
heavier-gauge frame (753 vs TT OX Platinum), and is probably more similar
to an AHH than a Roadeo.  I ride my Riv Road Standard a lot, and it has
fenders, a front mini-rack with a rando bag for commuting and short trips,
and a Nitto R20 rack for when I tour.

I think the AHH or Sam H would be a great choice for your described use.  I
like John's suggestion of a second wheelset if you only have one bike.

Cheers,
Tim

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 11:57 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> Doug,
>
> Security is somewhat of a worry.  The bike is just outside of our RV door
> and our German Shepherd barks at most things that move around us.  Noisy
> gravel provides some alert for movement outside.  There is a covered cabana
> with a picnic table in it.  A Topeak cover is over the bike and it is cable
> locked through the frame to a cabana corner post.  The bottom of the wheels
> show, but not much else.  For a Riv, I would upgrade to a U-Lock through a
> padded chain through the frame and a set of Pitlocks.
>
> I was reading some of the product descriptions and comments on Riv for the
> shifters.  Though not official supported in the product description, the
> comments indicate some have managed to get them working with 10 speeds.  If
> I decide to go that route, I would have to ask Riv if they would build it
> that way.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:50 PM, dougP  wrote:
>
>> Tim:
>>
>> How secure is your RV park? I would hesitate to lock any bike outside
>> like that unless it's well hidden & secure.
>>
>> As to shifters, DTs do look clean & classy, & bar ends are nice too. You
>> may ponder your desire for an eleventh gear. 9 or 10 may  be enough, and
>> opens up your choices in shifters. Worth a second thought.
>>
>> Doug p
>>
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[RBW] eCLEM

I agree the bike could use bigger rubber - right now the amount of tire 
clearance is almost comical, like a lifted Jeep running mini spares - but I'm 
pretty happy with the 1.6 Continentals, so they'll be on there 'til they wear 
out. The previous bike the electric kit was on had 700 x 28, so I'm already 
familiar with the ride and handling on skinny tires. Realistically electric 
doesn't make your bike faster than you would normally be traveling on a long 
descent, it just hits those speeds more often. 

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Surlyprof

Tim,

I'd +1 Drew's suggestion of a Hilson or Hillborne or, possibly an 
Appaloosa.  Since you are only going to have one, those three seem to be 
more all-arounder than the Rodeo (although I've always coveted the Rodeo). 
 The way I view them, the Hilson and Hillborne are the all-arounders if you 
ride roads more than trails and the Appaloosa if you ride more trails than 
roads.  The Hillborne can handle a wider tire than the Hilson although the 
Hilson is IMHO one of Riv's most beautiful bikes.  I only own 1 bike to 
avoid clutter in my garage/studio/shop.  Like you, I also tried to create 
Riv-ish bikes once with a Surly Cross Check followed by a Soma Groove.  I 
sold those off as well as my Bianchi road bike that could only take 23mm 
tires and bought a Sam.  I kick myself thinking of how much I would have 
ultimately saved had I just bought a Riv from the beginning.  I've owned an 
orange canti-Hillborne for about two years now and absolutely love it. 
 Being over 50, having the handlebars above the saddle has been much more 
comfortable without sacrificing the feeling of speed and nimbleness.  I 
started with Albatross bars but quickly changed to Albastaches to get a 
more aggressive more position when I want it while still being able to ride 
more upright when needed.  I have been able to ride trails on Smart Sams 
and roads on Barlow Pass tires.  The one thing I did that eased the 
versatility was buy a second, lighter wheelset for the Compass tires.  This 
has made changing over from trail and commuter bike to light-ish road bike 
much quicker and easier than swapping tires.  I do have to adjust the 
barrel adjusters on the brakes to accommodate for the different rim widths. 
 The whole operation takes about 15 minutes.  If you are worried about the 
rain, you may want to consider the Brooks C-series seats rather than the 
leather ones.  That said, I've had good luck with the Randi Jo seat cover 
they sell at Riv (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/s92.htm).

I'm sure you'll be happy with whatever you choose.  I've never ridden a Riv 
I haven't adored.
John

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 7:38:33 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I 
> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and 
> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and 
> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That 
> was sort of rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>
> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort 
> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left 
> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in 
> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp, 
> definitely not rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>
> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the 
> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer 
> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo, 
> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at 
> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of 
> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my 
> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks 
> without having to change frames.
>
> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two mentioned. 
>  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was more modern 
> with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs and SRAM 
> setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much, I like 
> the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It looks 
> clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I expect 
> that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But, using DT 
> shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work with an 
> 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and cons of 
> each.
>
> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some 
> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer 
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I 
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are 
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv 
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but 
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread ascpgh

I'll second that. Works well, stays in gear and close enough equals a shift.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 1:38:10 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> If you are going to be bar end friction shifting I recommend 7- or 8- 
> speed cassettes. Less autoshifting.
>
> I run 7-speed cassettes on both my Rivendells.
>
> I went from brifters to bar ends and I loved bar ends at first shift. For 
> some reason I find them more fun to use than brifters.
> Perhaps it is also the freedom of not having to be tied into a gruppo 
> drivetrain as bar end friction shifting will shift across any 
> cogsets/chainrings.
>
> Also, you dont have to set the cable tension up "just so" like you do with 
> brifting setups.
>
> Just feels free-er to me. More fun.
>
>

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[RBW] Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

My largely uneducated guess would be no. These tend to be used on bikes with 
side-pulls or cantilevers, which use shorter cable travel than v-brakes. Also, 
my experience with road levers that supposedly work with V's is that you have 
to set the pads very close and hope it works. She might be better off using 
whatever levers she likes with a Travel Agent doohickey.

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[RBW] Re: FS : Price Drop : 60cm SimpleOne / Multi-Speed Mods / Clear Powdercoat

2016-05-26 Thread Andrew Patteson

This is such a cool bike.  I'm a little surprised it hasn't found a home 
yet.  I'd be in if I were a little shorter and a little more flush with 
cash.

Andrew in SLC

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Re: [RBW] Re: Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

Daniel-

I have a pair of Ibex bike shorts that I bought used, and have used heavily
myself for the past 18 months.  The elastic waist still has the same
tension (just right, actually) as the day I received them.

I ordered the El Fito full tights and the 3/4 tights.  Thanks for the
heads-up, list!

Tim

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM, Daniel D.  wrote:

> Got my order yesterday 3/4 medium fits me perfectly.  5'8" 155 31-32"
> waist,  Surprised no drawstring. Usually a bib fan. How does the elastic
> waist band hold up over time, does it start drooping after a couple of
> years?
>
> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:16:06 AM UTC-7, danmc wrote:
>>
>> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and
>> tights on their website.
>>
>> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the
>> tights.
>>
>> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling
>> "pants" for cooler weather.
>>
>> Dan
>>
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[RBW] eCLEM

2016-05-26 Thread Jonathan Shinefeld

Love it!  I did something similar with my LHT (opting to leave the Ramboulliet 
analog). Echoing a previous poster, fat tires are a good idea. You'll get going 
faster than you might be used to and a poor man's suspension provides much 
better control on uneven surfaces. 
Jon Shinefeld
PhilaPA

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[RBW] Secondary Levers and V-Brakes

2016-05-26 Thread Brad Arnold

Hello All:

My wife and I recently bought matching Joe Appaloosas and the bikes have 
been great as anticipated. My wife, however, does not find the swept back 
bars comfortable and would like to put drop bars on instead. She also wants 
secondary (in-line) brake levers because she spends 99.9% of the time on 
the tops. I know V-brakes require a long-pull brake lever and Tektro makes 
one for drop bars (RL520). Will secondary brake levers work with this setup 
(Nitto Noodle, V-brakes, Tektro RL520s, and secondary levers)?

Thank you,

Brad

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[RBW] Re: FS - Simplex Retrofriction Downtube Shifters

2016-05-26 Thread stoker

You got 'em Daniel. Yes, PayPal. Please shoot a note privately when you 
have access.Thanks! Bob

On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 10:51:25 AM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> I'll take 'em! 
>
> On mobile so can't reply privately. 
>
> PayPal address for payment?
>
> Thanks,
> Daniel
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

> I went from brifters to bar ends and I loved bar ends at first shift. For
some reason I find them more fun to use than brifters.

That is an interesting observation.  Thanks.

One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end
shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I
decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any
interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be
aware of.

Thanks.

TIm


On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:38 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> If you are going to be bar end friction shifting I recommend 7- or 8-
> speed cassettes. Less autoshifting.
>
> I run 7-speed cassettes on both my Rivendells.
>
> I went from brifters to bar ends and I loved bar ends at first shift. For
> some reason I find them more fun to use than brifters.
> Perhaps it is also the freedom of not having to be tied into a gruppo
> drivetrain as bar end friction shifting will shift across any
> cogsets/chainrings.
>
> Also, you dont have to set the cable tension up "just so" like you do with
> brifting setups.
>
> Just feels free-er to me. More fun.
>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end
> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I
> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any
> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be
> aware of.
>

Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, rack/bag,
handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable routing.  If
barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead of big and
loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat and tidy
routing may affect cable life.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Doug,

Security is somewhat of a worry.  The bike is just outside of our RV door
and our German Shepherd barks at most things that move around us.  Noisy
gravel provides some alert for movement outside.  There is a covered cabana
with a picnic table in it.  A Topeak cover is over the bike and it is cable
locked through the frame to a cabana corner post.  The bottom of the wheels
show, but not much else.  For a Riv, I would upgrade to a U-Lock through a
padded chain through the frame and a set of Pitlocks.

I was reading some of the product descriptions and comments on Riv for the
shifters.  Though not official supported in the product description, the
comments indicate some have managed to get them working with 10 speeds.  If
I decide to go that route, I would have to ask Riv if they would build it
that way.

Thanks.

Tim

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:50 PM, dougP  wrote:

> Tim:
>
> How secure is your RV park? I would hesitate to lock any bike outside like
> that unless it's well hidden & secure.
>
> As to shifters, DTs do look clean & classy, & bar ends are nice too. You
> may ponder your desire for an eleventh gear. 9 or 10 may  be enough, and
> opens up your choices in shifters. Worth a second thought.
>
> Doug p
>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

I've done a bit more research and found my handlebar choice may affect my
shifter choice.  I like the hook/drop angle of the Nitto Randonneur bars.
That angle seems like it may be more comfortable to hold for longer periods
than a more outward/vertical hand position.  But, I've read it may not be
as comfortable using brifters with that angle, especially from the hoods.
So, if I go with that bar, it may be better suited to a bar end shifter.  I
still like the idea of keeping the cables nice and tidy.  Maybe I can do
that from bar ends without introducing too much additional friction.

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 11:25 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Tim Butterfield <
> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> One thing I have noticed from the bike pictures that included bar end
>> shifters is there seems to be more cable looped in front of the bars.  If I
>> decide to add a front rack and bag later, would that extra cable have any
>> interference from that?  Just wondering if there are any gotchas to be
>> aware of.
>>
>
> Just to be clear on this, I don't know what I may add in future, rack/bag,
> handlebar bag, etc.  My preference is for neat and tidy cable routing.  If
> barcon cables can be mostly tucked under the bar tape instead of big and
> loopy, they may still work for me.  But, I don't know how neat and tidy
> routing may affect cable life.
>
> Tim
>
>

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[RBW] Re: freaking gorgeous

2016-05-26 Thread Wally Estrella

SWEET for sure!

On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 7:48:23 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> they actually still are, currently dba Henry Repeating Arms.  
> Back to the Flying Merkel, made in Miami, Ohio (no relation to Iver 
> Johnson)
>
>
> 
>
> how about this head badge?  
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:26:28 PM UTC-5, bo richardson wrote:
>>
>> you probably know this already
>> but iver johnson was mostly or also a firearms manufacturer
>
>

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[RBW] Re: freaking gorgeous

2016-05-26 Thread Wally Estrella

Yes.  The annual "Fitchburg Rides" event is happening next month.  The 
Fitchburg Historical Society will have some really cools Ivers on display. 
 I've been the past few years, also participate as I run the kids bike 
rodeo for the event.
IJ was producing bikes from about early 1890's to WW2.

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 11:26:28 PM UTC-4, bo richardson wrote:
>
> you probably know this already
> but iver johnson was mostly or also a firearms manufacturer

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread masmojo

Out of the two you've presented the HH is the most versatile and would be my 
recommendation (especially considering you weight, in fact I think maybe even 
an Atlantis might be worth considering). A couple other things to consider,  
first no matter which you choose the ability to turn around and sell it if it's 
not to your liking is probably unparalleled in any other bike. Secondly,  you 
might consider your age and where you will be with cycling in 5 or 10 years!? 
In other words think of it as a long term relationship and not solely about 
what you ride or how you ride now!

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread masmojo

I am not partial to carbon fiber forks or bikes,  not because of it failing (at 
least not right away), but because I tend to keep my bikes for long periods of 
time and carbon had a definite shelf life.  There a re exceptions, but overall 
I would not feel safe riding the average 15 year old carbon fiber bike.
Now, that said there are literally,  millions of carbon fiber bikes out there 
and increasingly it is the material of choice for forks! Just about any frame 
builders web site will feature at least one & generally you have to do a little 
digging (& drop a ton of money) if you want something besides carbon fiber! So 
playing devils advocate here, can they really be so bad? I personally know a 
dozen people with carbon fiber frames, they ride frequently and have for many 
years & I haven't heard one horror story of anything breaking! 
Back in the day I knew people with Kestrals & occasionally they had issues,  
but rarely catastrophic failures! Now those and other early CF bikes were 
generally massively overbuilt.  I think the industry, using that as a starting 
point started lightening and refining, in the process I assume they went too 
far and things got too fragile!? Now it seems as if they have found the middle 
ground, they know where to add heft and strength and they have a fair idea 
where they can cheat & save weight.  Overall it appears the current crop of CF 
forks are indeed quite robust!
Still, how viable are these frames/forks going to be in 20 years!? Time will 
tell, but I'll keep with my steel (and maybe titanium)
Important to note that 30 years ago people maligned aluminum as a frame 
material,  saying it was too soft and it would fail, but the heat treated 
aluminum frames have proven themselves, very few actually did fail.
10 years from now maybe we'll be laughing this off!?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Scott Henry

Carbon is much much sturdier than you think.Carbon is also much more
trusted everywhere else in life than it is on this list.By the mode of
thinking around here, carbon would also have no place on a seatpost,
mountainbike, or a folder, or a car, airframe, in the military
It'll be fine.

You'd be surprised at how overbuilt cheap carbon like that really is.
Top end racing carbon parts wouldn't be good for children, but then again,
neither would top end aluminum or lightweight steel.   Carbon forks on
those cheap bikes, and by that I'm referring to anything retailing below
about $1500, are really study.   Many of those forks aren't even that much
lighter.   They are built sturdy, maybe tapered and aero, but they are
built like a tank.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> In a world of "racing light" is king, customers will buy carbon and be
> uninformed that the bikes are throwaway after the first hard knock (who can
> imagine that with a kid's bike?" or at the very least the frame integrity
> needs be checked by a competent specialist after every spill ("did you drop
> your bike today, Davey?". I think of the "fork wars" video: how many times
> as a kid did I leap off my bike, take a tumble, or simply slam my bike down
> hard, with a lot of lateral pressure on the fork/frame? Far more than I
> ever realized.
>
> What I find concerning is precisely that carbon has no place in a kid's
> bike. Ever. Yet they are offering it. It shows me their underlying
> principles of bicycling differ greatly from mine.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 3:51:39 PM UTC-6, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>>
>> I don't get this post. So what if they are expanding into carbon?   I
>> don't think a carbon bike by itself is going to cause all the death and
>> destruction that many people fear.
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS : Price Drop : 60cm SimpleOne / Multi-Speed Mods / Clear Powdercoat

2016-05-26 Thread S. Greco

I had some people contact me about the Nitto mini rack. I am going to hold 
off on selling the rack to see if anyone is interested in getting it with 
the frame. 
If the frame sells without it I'll contact those of you who reached out 
and/or re-list it separately. 
I'm sorry I should have been more clear in how I wrote that listing.

- Steve

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

2016-05-26 Thread Daniel D.

Got my order yesterday 3/4 medium fits me perfectly.  5'8" 155 31-32" 
waist,  Surprised no drawstring. Usually a bib fan. How does the elastic 
waist band hold up over time, does it start drooping after a couple of 
years?

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:16:06 AM UTC-7, danmc wrote:
>
> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and 
> tights on their website. 
>
> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights. 
>
> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling 
> "pants" for cooler weather. 
>
> Dan 
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

In a world of "racing light" is king, customers will buy carbon and be 
uninformed that the bikes are throwaway after the first hard knock (who can 
imagine that with a kid's bike?" or at the very least the frame integrity 
needs be checked by a competent specialist after every spill ("did you drop 
your bike today, Davey?". I think of the "fork wars" video: how many times 
as a kid did I leap off my bike, take a tumble, or simply slam my bike down 
hard, with a lot of lateral pressure on the fork/frame? Far more than I 
ever realized.

What I find concerning is precisely that carbon has no place in a kid's 
bike. Ever. Yet they are offering it. It shows me their underlying 
principles of bicycling differ greatly from mine.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 3:51:39 PM UTC-6, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
> I don't get this post. So what if they are expanding into carbon?   I 
> don't think a carbon bike by itself is going to cause all the death and 
> destruction that many people fear. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread Shoji Takahashi

I kinda get it for the older kids, but Islabikes offers Pro Series down to 
the 16" bike designed for 4+-- at nearly $1,200! Most of my friends with 
young kids gave me a look when I spent ~$300 on the non-Pro Cnoc. I have no 
regrets on that: my 6yo son learned on it and now my 4yo daughter toodles 
around the neighborhood with me.

Maybe it's the unracer in me: I think bikes are great for adventure, or 
getting to a friends house down the road to play. It doesn't have to be 
about racing all the time, right? 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/27103421162/in/datetaken/

shoji



On Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 10:25:32 AM UTC-4, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> Yes, it's nice to have choices. Islabikes makes a great line of kids' 
> bikes, and as long as that original line exists, I'm a happy customer. Yay 
> for Islabikes, and all that stuff.
>
> BUT
>
> Is no one else a bit nervous about carbon forks on children's bikes? What 
> did Grant say on the BLUG? Something like "the worst material a fork can be 
> made from" or something close to that. And I don't know if you get to keep 
> the company of children much, but I am in the thick of child-rearing, and 
> WOW can kids be hard on stuff. The idea of carbon in combo with kids just 
> makes me nervous. And if you know about carbon and you're good with that, 
> well, ok. But I know most people couldn't tell you a thing about carbon 
> fiber except that it's expensive and light and therefore must be good. 
> Can't you see someone with money to burn getting one of these for his/her 
> kid and not knowing about carbon? 
>
> I don't have an extensive biking background. I had Target/Walmart bikes 
> until 2012, when my Walmart Schwinn broke. I got a Craigslist Trek which 
> was my first "nice bike" and sold it after I couldn't stand the pain from 
> being hunched forward. By Dec. I had my Betty Foy, and I'll probably die 
> with that bike. I realize I don't have extensive experience with bikes 
> (carbon or otherwise) but I've read enough to really distrust carbon, and 
> for a kid? No thanks. Islabikes can do whatever it likes, but it took me by 
> surprise when they went this direction. And I hope they don't change the 
> original line of bikes, which are really great.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

"are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?"
Absolutely. A Riv setup is brilliant, simple, and easily adjusted/fixed in 
field if needed. More importantly, they ride fantastically, and that 
matters for every distance. I haven't ridden the bikes you have, but the 
non-rive bikes I've ridden don't even compare to the "invisible" wonder of 
my Riv. bikes (Hunqapillar and Quickbeam). The ride, for me, is far more 
fun, no matter the distance.

"If I pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?"
Grant's bikes have an inherently wide window of usability, which is utterly 
counter to the niche purposing of most modern bikes. That said, the Rodeo 
likely has the smallest window. I've heard it said the Quickbeam fits 
somewhere between the Rodeo and AHH. Presuming that is true, the window I 
ride the QB on ranges from smooth fast paved roads to remote and medium 
rough forest service roads/trails. I've taken it on more technical trails 
and it is definitely under biking, and fun in its own way as a "hone my 
skills" adventure. For myself, I'd choose the AHH.

"Are there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a 
Riv locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?"
I live in dry (as in not humid often) Colorado mountains. However, my 
Hunqapillar lives outside without cover on all bikepacking trips, a 
stunning number of which are half rain (enough that the tent fly is always 
wet). So far so good. Use frame saver, cover as you can, and enjoy!

"I'm doubtful of that, but don't want to mistreat it either."
It's a bike. Enjoy it. Use it. It will age wonderfully based on how you do. 
The only way to mistreat it is to not use it! Grin.

"Any thing else I should consider?"
Indubitably. Ultimately, however, the answer is to get the best match you 
can and ride and learn from there. The experience will teach you more than 
the mind-spinning fretting beforehand. And all the mind-spinning fretting I 
did would have been far easier if I'd just spoken to Grant and Co. once and 
let them run with it and ridden what they sent me. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer 
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I 
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are 
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv 
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but 
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

2016-05-26 Thread LeahFoy

Yes, it's nice to have choices. Islabikes makes a great line of kids' bikes, 
and as long as that original line exists, I'm a happy customer. Yay for 
Islabikes, and all that stuff.

BUT

Is no one else a bit nervous about carbon forks on children's bikes? What did 
Grant say on the BLUG? Something like "the worst material a fork can be made 
from" or something close to that. And I don't know if you get to keep the 
company of children much, but I am in the thick of child-rearing, and WOW can 
kids be hard on stuff. The idea of carbon in combo with kids just makes me 
nervous. And if you know about carbon and you're good with that, well, ok. But 
I know most people couldn't tell you a thing about carbon fiber except that 
it's expensive and light and therefore must be good. Can't you see someone with 
money to burn getting one of these for his/her kid and not knowing about 
carbon? 

I don't have an extensive biking background. I had Target/Walmart bikes until 
2012, when my Walmart Schwinn broke. I got a Craigslist Trek which was my first 
"nice bike" and sold it after I couldn't stand the pain from being hunched 
forward. By Dec. I had my Betty Foy, and I'll probably die with that bike. I 
realize I don't have extensive experience with bikes (carbon or otherwise) but 
I've read enough to really distrust carbon, and for a kid? No thanks. Islabikes 
can do whatever it likes, but it took me by surprise when they went this 
direction. And I hope they don't change the original line of bikes, which are 
really great.

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-05-26 Thread Brian Campbell

I have had an AHH for 5 years now. I love the bike. It has been built up in 
many configurations and handled all of them very well. Currently, it is set 
up for Commuting/Road/Rando riding. All in minus. repair kit it, weighs 
24.9 pounds (lights/fenders/ pedals/ water bottle cages and Brooks b17 
included). With out the dyno hub/fenders and lights it would be pretty 
close to a Roadeo in total weight. My point being is that it is easier to 
make your AHH, Roadeo-like that it is to make your Roadeo, AHH-like. 

In addition, the AHH also for racks and carrying stuff where the Roadeo is 
not designed with those things in mind. Both are great bikes but he AHH 
give you more flexibility as your needs change.

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Re: [RBW] Seeking advice (and WTB) front lowrider rack and panniers for canti Sam