Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm SOLD

[drew]

I hope someone who deserves happiness more than me got this and is happy.

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[RBW] FS: NIB Tektro CR720 cantis silver

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Kyle,

I am having trouble sending you a private message. I would like the CR720s.
Please email me at gjtramey (at) gmail dot com.

Thanks,
Joe in GJT Colorado

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[RBW] Re: RIVEOPARDY

[Joe Bernard]

That one got very convoluted for me. I missed the buckwheat question, and now 
realize I used that answer for "high carb, low carb". Doh!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brand new Silver Campy Veloce groupset

[Ash A]

I have two items from this group set remaining:

Campy Veloce Ergo shifters (2x10) - $70
Campy Brake set (Dual Pivot Calipers) - $25

Both items are silver color and new unopened.




On Friday, 23 December 2016 14:24:12 UTC-8, Ash A wrote:
>
> Price drop: $360 shipped.  
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 20 December 2016 15:00:17 UTC-8, Ashwath Akirekadu wrote:
>>
>> Bought from Ribble a month ago to build a new San Marcos.  I've abandoned 
>> that project since then.  
>>
>> Groupset includes
>>
>> - Silver Brake Set 
>> -12-30 Cassette 10 speed
>> - 10 speed Chain 
>> - 170 silver compact crankset 50/34
>> - Silver front/rear derailleurs
>> - Veloce Powershift Ergo-levers - Silver 10 Speed
>> - Campy Power Torque English Thread bottom bracket
>>
>> $390 shipped
>>
>> PM me at 
>>
>> a s h w a t h  a t  g m a i l 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Paul Minimotos

[Jim M.]

Somehow I ended up with a set of Paul Minmotos (short-pull linear pull 
brakes) and Paul Love Levers (long pull). I'm selling the Minimotos and 
using the Love Levers with some Motolites. These are new, never mounted, 
black Minimotos. I did open the package to fidget with them. Here's a pic: 






The tape is there to keep the small bits from getting lost. Paul charges 
$284 plus shipping for 2 wheels worth. You can have these for $240 shipped.


jim m

wc, ca

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[RBW] Re: RIVEOPARDY

[Jack Barnes]

Looking forward to the answer key, if there is one. I think I got the 
buckwheat one answered correctly, but was stumped by a bar that "sounds 
both high carb & low car, and we don't sell it anymore".  I mean, I thought 
of a bar that fits that description — It is the bar I ride on the most, but 
I'm pretty sure Riv does still sell it. Lotsa fun though!

On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 10:02:33 AM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Great! Can't wait for more. I've been in dire need of mental and/or 
> intellectual and/or comedic distractions the last few days. SNL has been 
> particulaly helpful.  Happened across this clip yesterday, which might help 
> explain the rules to those unfamiliar with the game.  Good for a laugh, if 
> nothing else.  (Not political, but not for those easily offended -fyi.)
> https://youtu.be/ImaYMoTi2g8

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/22/2017 06:40 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
Yeah, I recall trying to get my 19 mm racing tires to 120 psi back in 
the day. And I was young and strong.


The other problem was that, because it has no check valve, if you were 
not careful, the plunger would kick back and, if the pressure was high 
enough and you were not quick enough, kick back with enough force to 
shoot the entire plunger mech entirely out of the tube into the 
distance. That happened to me at least once.





Happened to me once, too.  I was riding a tandem with my daughter, doing 
a century at the time.  (For DC area locals, it was on Accokeek Road 
near Berry, across the road from a nursery.)  POOM!! and the whole thing 
shot right out the back of the pump, out of my hand and across the road.


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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

Yeah, I recall trying to get my 19 mm racing tires to 120 psi back in the
day. And I was young and strong.

The other problem was that, because it has no check valve, if you were not
careful, the plunger would kick back and, if the pressure was high enough
and you were not quick enough, kick back with enough force to shoot the
entire plunger mech entirely out of the tube into the distance. That
happened to me at least once.

But for getting F Freds to 25 or 30 psi max, no prob except for gunky
valves.

BTW, I've read Jobst sneering at wimps who found the Impero too hard to
use. His analysis of the problem: you lack upper body strength.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 4:32 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
> On 01/22/2017 06:13 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Actually, the Impero, besides ultimate coolness, is not so impractical
>> after all with my fattish and lowish pressure F Freds.
>>
>
> The Silca Impero was designed in a day when 70 psi was really high
> pressure.  It's got a large bore and moves a lot of air with each stroke;
> that makes it easy to get a tire up to a certain pressure fast, but as
> pressure increases enormous strength is required.   You can almost use the
> bulging of the veins in your forehead and neck as a pressure gauge.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/22/2017 06:13 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
Actually, the Impero, besides ultimate coolness, is not so impractical 
after all with my fattish and lowish pressure F Freds. 


The Silca Impero was designed in a day when 70 psi was really high 
pressure.  It's got a large bore and moves a lot of air with each 
stroke; that makes it easy to get a tire up to a certain pressure fast, 
but as pressure increases enormous strength is required.   You can 
almost use the bulging of the veins in your forehead and neck as a 
pressure gauge.



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm SOLD

[Patrick Moore]

$500 tempted me sorely, even though (1) it is a size too small, (2) I am
short of cash, and (3) I don't need another fixed gear, owning 3 (though
the '50s, all-chrome French track bike at Stevie's has my wee heart
pounding).

Someone got a steal of a deal.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 4:11 PM, Belopsky  wrote:

> I go on vacation and this is what shows up?
>
> Anyone selling a 54 or 56 variety? :)
>
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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

Meant to add: I rather expect that swapping out either rd or bes will
suffice, at least for my purposes. Either way, I'd get more precision. Eg,
I expect that with Simplex Retrofs, I'd get more control of the DA 740N;
or, with another Microshift, the Silvers would work outstandingly.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 2:23 PM, Jon BALER  wrote:

> Microshift makes a bar end shifter that is dynasys compatible.  There are
> other options for thumb or downtube too.
>
> Dynasys uses more cable pull distance for each shift, so the shifter and
> derailleur are different.   As far as precision, it depends on how the
> friction is designed.  You can get more cable pull distance by increasing
> lever travel or diameter.  If a larger diameter, then precision would be
> about the same.  A small diameter with more travel gives more tolerance
> between shifts.
>
> You can also make a 9 speed friction shifter work with dynasys by
> dremeling it to get more travel.
>
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**
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circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

Got it; thanks. I recall the Retrofrictions I used with 10 speed -- smaller
barrels mean more travel per unit length of cable pulled, which translates
to more precision at the back, all else equal.

As for rear derailleur travel, theDynasys rd must require more pull, all
else equal, than some of the older r derailleurs like the present DA 7400
series one I'm using. It be similar in that regard to other modern, 10
speed derailleurs like the Miche road one I used. Nice shifting!

Not quite 18 miles today, again mostly on muddy dirt. I'd replaced the
problematical 16 and 17 t cogs that, of all the 10, were the ones on which
the chain didn't sit securely -- ghost shifting, IOW.

Today's ride was mostly in the 63" ad 67" gears, with some faster sections
in the 70" -- 19, 18, and 17 t respectively. I also tried the 75"/16 t just
to compare with the previous ride.

The 16 is now fine; the 19 and 18 remain as before -- fine. But the 17,
while not quite as incorrigible, is still problematical. I could get it to
seat securely, but doing so requires great care, and even when optimally
centered, the chain still grumbles at every 2 crank revolutions, and the
shift to the 16 is also problematical. So: similar to before: hard to shift
from 18 to 17, and from 17 to 16. Different: I can now get the chain to
stay in place securely and smoothly on the 16; with difficulty securely but
not properly smooth on the 17.

I'll replace the 17 with another one -- fortunately, 17s are among the most
common in my box. If several more swaps don't work, I may have to replace
the DA with something more practical, if far, far less stylish.

I wonder if Simplex Retrofrictions will fit onto Silver BES bodies?

(Yes, using old DA f and r derailleurs, and using a Silca Impero as the
frame pump, are blatant and unapologetic concessions to a roadie style that
I have very little right to. Actually, the Impero, besides ultimate
coolness, is not so impractical after all with my fattish and lowish
pressure F Freds. The only problem is that sealant tends to muck up the
valves, meaning that you have to work hard to overcome the gunk during your
first 5 lbs or so.)

But all the other 9 cogs seem to work fine.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 2:23 PM, Jon BALER  wrote:

> Microshift makes a bar end shifter that is dynasys compatible.  There are
> other options for thumb or downtube too.
>
> Dynasys uses more cable pull distance for each shift, so the shifter and
> derailleur are different.   As far as precision, it depends on how the
> friction is designed.  You can get more cable pull distance by increasing
> lever travel or diameter.  If a larger diameter, then precision would be
> about the same.  A small diameter with more travel gives more tolerance
> between shifts.
>
> You can also make a 9 speed friction shifter work with dynasys by
> dremeling it to get more travel.
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Re: FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm SOLD

[Belopsky]

I go on vacation and this is what shows up? 

Anyone selling a 54 or 56 variety? :)

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[RBW] Re: Clem-L's first march and rally and a brief 5-month update

[LLM]

Crisp air in the lungs, the sound of spattering bacon as carbide tips hit 
the pavement.you're missing out!

On Sunday, January 22, 2017 at 1:14:21 PM UTC-5, Jim M. wrote:
>
> Looks great! But it makes me glad to live some place where I don't need 
> studded tires.
>
> jim m
> wc, ca
>

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Jon BALER]

Microshift makes a bar end shifter that is dynasys compatible.  There are other 
options for thumb or downtube too.

Dynasys uses more cable pull distance for each shift, so the shifter and 
derailleur are different.   As far as precision, it depends on how the friction 
is designed.  You can get more cable pull distance by increasing lever travel 
or diameter.  If a larger diameter, then precision would be about the same.  A 
small diameter with more travel gives more tolerance between shifts.

You can also make a 9 speed friction shifter work with dynasys by dremeling it 
to get more travel.

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[RBW] FS: NIB Tektro CR720 cantis silver

[KyleBH]

Two brakes, full bikes worth, never opened.  Not sure why the label says 
"rear", these will work with either front or rear.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/fjbR4ixSS3EAq2ch2UMKFEpex2qaW0vjU9WifOlMysr

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/CTajtphkt3jsJMJIilerEzP9FyKsWcOi1rX1JHMjqFJ

$30 shipped.

Kyle

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[RBW] FS: Dia-Compe Centerpull brakes with VO cable hangers

[KyleBH]

For sale, lightly used Dia-Compe 750 Centerpull brake set with upgraded VO 
Roller Straddle Cable Hangers. 

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/Xvx9qQzugC6gm9NP7XQEaX8ckuI7jPYuHgqRUSQpmei

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/jBa67uEAKRXKULmluEFoBerSN8wmDPSHU6kfwTD1ZDf

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/1rRwVj7j9HxSOl0scNLYQfMxOqc2fJjAmWIGTKumFJj

Recessed front, nutted rear.

$55 for the set shipped in the USA.

Kyle




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Re: [RBW] WTB: 29" dyno wheel

[Patrick Shea]

I left out a huge detail:

Must be a disc hub.

All apologies to all!

Rim and spoke count don't really matter.

Cheers,
Patrick

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 9:46 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Patrick: as the former owner of a first edition steel Fargo, I'd love to
> see photos of your build.
>
> On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Patrick Shea  wrote:
>
> Hey All:
>
> I was too late on the last one here. I need a dyno wheel for my Fargo. I
> have the lights.
>
> I can buy or trade, free nice part for a successful CL tip.
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
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>
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> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
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>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, perhaps it is. Can someone elucidate and, if it is the RD, explain the
difference? I don't understand what Jon means by "longer cable pull."

FWIW, I'm using a Dura Ace 7401-2 road RD which works fine, but doesn't
shift as well as:

1. Circa 2010-2011 LX rd; only this one was reverse pull, which I dislike;

2. Microshift road rd -- absolutely the best rd I've used; unfortunately,
this one caught a stick and shattered, literally.

Both 1 and 2 above with the same Silver bes.

Come to think of it, I expect that the reason 1 and 2 shifted so well was
that they moved less per angle of lever, and thus were more precise. I
daresay that's why the Dynasys is better.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> So that's a difference not in the shifter, but in the rear derailleur,
> right?
>
>
>
> On 01/22/2017 12:47 PM, Jon BALER wrote:
>
>> Assuming you had a road shifter, it would require more precision.  But
>> Shimano mountain 10 speed/dynasys has longer cable pull and therefore
>> requires less precision.  I have it on two bikes, and works great.
>>
>>
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**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
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world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

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[RBW] FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm SOLD

[RonaTD]

Sorry, should have updated last night. Thanks for the overwhelming response!

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Steve Palincsar]

So that's a difference not in the shifter, but in the rear derailleur, 
right?



On 01/22/2017 12:47 PM, Jon BALER wrote:

Assuming you had a road shifter, it would require more precision.  But Shimano 
mountain 10 speed/dynasys has longer cable pull and therefore requires less 
precision.  I have it on two bikes, and works great.



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[RBW] Re: Clem-L's first march and rally and a brief 5-month update

[Jim M.]

Looks great! But it makes me glad to live some place where I don't need 
studded tires.

jim m
wc, ca

On Sunday, January 22, 2017 at 8:22:47 AM UTC-8, LLM wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> This fuzzy image was captured yesterday near the NY State Capitol building 
> in Albany, NY.  With a crowd estimated at 7000, I managed to catch one 
> "Nice Bike!", and had a conversation about hip replacements and 
> step-through frames with a guy with a very sore hip, whose bike was parked 
> in front of mine.  
>
>
> This is the current winter setup, five months after New Bike Day.  A few 
> thoughts to mark the occasion:
>
>
> It's a "meh" so far with the Nokian A10 studded tires.  They feel squirmy 
> in turns compared to the Mount and Grounds that I had on the Surly, though 
> to be fair, I haven't played much with tire pressures.  Snow melt that 
> turns to ice patches after sundown is common here in upstate NY; squirmy 
> seems a small price to pay for the peace of mind of having studs.  I have 
> returned to using the stock saddle after riding through the late summer and 
> fall with a Brooks B67S.  This saddle is surprisingly comfortable, and I 
> love not having to worry about the weather, or about someone taking it. 
> I've also grown to like the look.  I just started using the Extra Small 
> SaddleSack as a handlebar bag.  Among other things, I store my lighting 
> gear in it.  I like being able to simply pull the battery pack cord 
>  through the zipper opening to connect my CygoLight MityCross.  The bottom 
> of the Sackville MultiSack attached to the Pletscher Clem rack is just 
> visible through the rear wheel.  This is not Riv's most handsome bag, IMO, 
> but I use it more than any other for city riding.  Yesterday, I stored a 
> wallet, gloves, shoulder strap, bus pass and cable lock in it; its slim 
> profile was well-suited for walking a bike in a crowd.  I have adapted to 
> the quirks of the stock thumb shifters, but a touch of arthritis in my 
> thumbs has me collecting parts to switch to bar-end shifters.  I haven't 
> decided whether I will try modifying the Ergon BioKork grips for cable 
> routing, or just wrap the bars.
>
>
> All for now.
>
> Linda
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

One the contrary, 10 versus 9 versus etc. will require more precisions *ceteris
paribus, *but agree that smaller barrels (I take it that more lever travel
is what you mean by "longer cable pull") are more precise. Still, the
Silvers are quite good. As I said, I only really notice the greater level
of precision with 10; 9 compared to 8, very little.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 10:47 AM, Jon BALER  wrote:

> Assuming you had a road shifter, it would require more precision.  But
> Shimano mountain 10 speed/dynasys has longer cable pull and therefore
> requires less precision.  I have it on two bikes, and works great.
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Patrick Moore]

I'll keep the ICE rotor in mind. Jon: Silver bar end shifters. I daresay
that the "Dynanys" system is not compatible with bar end shifters?

Years ago I shifted 10 sp with Retrofrictions; these also have smaller
barrels. It worked fine, thought the total cassette chain travel required
almost the whole 180 degrees of shifter travel.

On Sat, Jan 21, 2017 at 10:49 PM, Bill in Roswell GA  wrote:

> Patrick, I loved the responsiveness of interrupter levers, but my canti
> brake levers felt mushy and less responsive. Then I changed handlebars, was
> in a bit of a rush and didn't want to take time to re-install the
> interrupters. Behold, the brake levers felt alive and responsive, only
> slightly less than the interrupter levers. So, in my situation on the CX
> bike, it wasn't so much the cable/housing as it was removing the
> interrupters.
>
> However, the top grades of compressionless brake housing do seem to stay
> responsive longer than the mid-grades. One other thing you may want to
> consider at some point, is changing rotors. I thought the TRP rotor that
> came with Spykes/Spyres was quite good. I banged up the front rotor on a
> rock and at the urging of the local master tech, got a Shimano ICE rotor.
> Doing so definitely increased the braking power - more slow down for less
> lever pull. As it was on the front I probably noticed the difference more
> than I would on the rear.
>
>

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[RBW] Friction shifting 10 cogs; Road BB7 disc brakes with Yokuzuna

[Jon BALER]

Assuming you had a road shifter, it would require more precision.  But Shimano 
mountain 10 speed/dynasys has longer cable pull and therefore requires less 
precision.  I have it on two bikes, and works great.

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Re: [RBW] WTB: 29" dyno wheel

[Patrick Moore]

Patrick: as the former owner of a first edition steel Fargo, I'd love to
see photos of your build.

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Patrick Shea  wrote:

> Hey All:
>
> I was too late on the last one here. I need a dyno wheel for my Fargo. I
> have the lights.
>
> I can buy or trade, free nice part for a successful CL tip.
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
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**
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world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto Big Back Rack

[Jeff Bogdanovich]

Hi Matthew. Thanks for your interest. This is the large one, what Riv now calls 
a 33r. It came off a 64cm Atlantis.

Jeff

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 22, 2017, at 12:40 PM, Mathew Greiner  wrote:
> 
> Interested. Is this the medium or the large?
> 
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[RBW] FS: Nitto Big Back Rack

[Mathew Greiner]

Interested. Is this the medium or the large?

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 29" dyno wheel

[Thomas McCause]

any specific dyno or rim in mind?


On Sunday, January 22, 2017 at 10:04:57 AM UTC-7, Patrick Shea wrote:
>
> Hey All:
>
> I was too late on the last one here. I need a dyno wheel for my Fargo. I 
> have the lights. 
>
> I can buy or trade, free nice part for a successful CL tip. 
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] WTB: 29" dyno wheel

[Patrick Shea]

Hey All:

I was too late on the last one here. I need a dyno wheel for my Fargo. I
have the lights.

I can buy or trade, free nice part for a successful CL tip.

Cheers,
Patrick

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[RBW] Clem-L's first march and rally and a brief 5-month update

[LLM]

This fuzzy image was captured yesterday near the NY State Capitol building 
in Albany, NY.  With a crowd estimated at 7000, I managed to catch one 
"Nice Bike!", and had a conversation about hip replacements and 
step-through frames with a guy with a very sore hip, whose bike was parked 
in front of mine.  


This is the current winter setup, five months after New Bike Day.  A few 
thoughts to mark the occasion:


It's a "meh" so far with the Nokian A10 studded tires.  They feel squirmy 
in turns compared to the Mount and Grounds that I had on the Surly, though 
to be fair, I haven't played much with tire pressures.  Snow melt that 
turns to ice patches after sundown is common here in upstate NY; squirmy 
seems a small price to pay for the peace of mind of having studs.  I have 
returned to using the stock saddle after riding through the late summer and 
fall with a Brooks B67S.  This saddle is surprisingly comfortable, and I 
love not having to worry about the weather, or about someone taking it. 
I've also grown to like the look.  I just started using the Extra Small 
SaddleSack as a handlebar bag.  Among other things, I store my lighting 
gear in it.  I like being able to simply pull the battery pack cord 
 through the zipper opening to connect my CygoLight MityCross.  The bottom 
of the Sackville MultiSack attached to the Pletscher Clem rack is just 
visible through the rear wheel.  This is not Riv's most handsome bag, IMO, 
but I use it more than any other for city riding.  Yesterday, I stored a 
wallet, gloves, shoulder strap, bus pass and cable lock in it; its slim 
profile was well-suited for walking a bike in a crowd.  I have adapted to 
the quirks of the stock thumb shifters, but a touch of arthritis in my 
thumbs has me collecting parts to switch to bar-end shifters.  I haven't 
decided whether I will try modifying the Ergon BioKork grips for cable 
routing, or just wrap the bars.


All for now.

Linda

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albastache more comfortable than the original road Moustache?

[Matt B.]

I like OG mustaches because they are narrower.  I'm also most comfortable 
on 42cm Noodles for drop bars, the 44s feel just slightly too wide.  With 
original mustaches it's key to position the levers so the tips of the hoods 
are about ~12-12.5cm apart.


On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 11:07:56 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> Rode my XO-1 with Moustache bars for 20+ years and as much as I  loved 
> them, they were never perfect. I always wished they were a little wider & 
> the curve a little less dramatic  (especially close to the stem). The 
> Albastache solves both of these issirs, so to me it's about a close to 
> perfect as possible. My main challenge now is to not put them on every bike 
> I own. Personally, I  no longer have a use for the original moustache, so 
> complete is the refinement that it renders the original  obsolete.
> Not sure how that helps you on you application though.

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[RBW] FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm

[Andrew Huston]

Since I haven't seen a 'sold' post, I'll jump in line next if it falls thru. 
Can't not do it for the price. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 29" sp dyno front wheel + parts

[Jeff Bogdanovich]

Ok Bill, they're yours. Shipping USPS is the cheapest at $7. If that all sounds 
good to you then please send $72 paypal friends and family to this address. 
I'll drop them in the mail today and get you the tracking. Thanks much!

Jeff

On Jan 22, 2017, at 12:13 AM, "Bill in Roswell GA" 
> wrote:

I'll take the CX-70 cantis if still available.

Cheers
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Friday, January 20, 2017 at 9:54:51 AM UTC-5, Jeffrey B wrote:
Clearing the parts bin of some extra Riv stuff.
These parts have less than 100 miles on them, all are in great shape.
Some teaser pics attached, more available upon request.

Shutter Precision dyno hub wheel, 36H - $150
MKS Grip king pedals - $25
Shimano CX-70 cantilever brake set front+rear - $65
Schwalbe big apple tires + tubes 60mm - still have casting beads - $20/ea
Bosco Bullmoose bar/stem (nitto tig'd version) - $85
shimano cx-70 front derailleur - $25
Deore rear derailleur - $28

Thanks for looking.

Jeff



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