[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[lconley]

Don't be silly. No reputable hub manufacturer is going to put the spoke holes 
in the hub too close together. The minimum diameter of a 48 hole hub flange is 
larger than the minimum diameter of a 32 hole hub flange in order to maintain 
the proper minimum spacing between the spoke holes. Have you ever seen a 48 
hole small flange hub? Take the Schmidt dynamo hubs for example. You cannot get 
more than 36 holes in the newer small flange hub models. If you want 40 or 48 
spokes you need to get the large flange classic model or the large flange 
tandem model. Same with the old Campagnolo Nuovo Record hubs. You had to get 
large flange to get the high spoke counts. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Cheviot Complete (Nitto, Sugino, Paul, Brooks, +Dynamo Lights)

[Irving]

$old



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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[Jonathan D.]

Orc. What rack is that and how much weight does it supper?

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

In this part of the country, he would probably be correct.  :( One can 
always dream. 



On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 9:12:11 PM UTC-5, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> Chris that's a great idea I'm not sure he thinks enough people would buy 
> Rivendells. It would be nice to see one in person before ordering. Although 
> my Sam is exactly what I thought it would be.

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[RBW] Re: Rambling Interview with Grant: Trail, Women's bikes, Low gearing, Current Reading, Etc

[Joe Bernard]

There may be a lot of different ways, but I've owned/ridden a lot of bikes, 
including 5 or 6 Rivendells, and there's something different/special about Riv 
handling. Smooth, stable, yet still quick to turn..I don't know how Grant does 
it, but it works. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

['clayton bailey' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Nice Atlantis and it looks uber comfortable! 
Clay 

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 11:30 AM, ADH  wrote:
 

 I've been looking at the original moustache bars because you can find them at 
a few places for under $60. Here's an added consideration for me. I'm in my 60s 
and I'm fairly short... 5' 6.5" (down from about 5' 8"). I ride a skinny tire 
54.5 cm Atlantis which is now as big a frame as I can handle and I don't ride 
off-road any more. In order to get most comfortable, I recently switched to a 5 
cm Nitto stem with my noodle bars, an inch above the seat. (I think it's 5 but 
might be 6. In any event, really short.) So it's comfortable, but I can't go 
shorter. The more posts I read, the less inclined I am to switch. I ride mostly 
on the brake hoods with occasional stints near the stem. I love the look of my 
Atlantis with drop bars. Plus they're taped and shellacked. So yeah, I just 
convinced myself to enjoy what I have.
Here's a link to my bike if anyone is interested. Flickr Atlantis Pics

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:36:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
When you say moustache, do you mean original moustache, or new moustache 
(Albastache)? Either way, I echo most others in saying a shorter stem is in 
order. Originals are narrower and more aggressive, so an even shorter stem may 
be in order. I love my new moustache, but I shifted from the Albatross. I use 
both hand position frequently, with deference to the curves. Unlike Clay, I 
find them the most ergonomic for all my riding, and the brakes are right where 
I want them for technical trails with rocky, rooty descents. Whether it's my 
staple ride of 20-40 miles of mixed terrain or a full day century plus, or a 
multi-day tour, these are wondrous to ride. Take your time dialing them in (as 
with everything) and you will be well rewarded.
With abandon,Patrick

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 7:02:18 AM UTC-6, ADH wrote:
I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost 10 years 
ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on the flat near 
the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop down any more. I 
was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized that the shape might 
require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you who ride with moustache 
bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar end shifters or more inboard 
near the brake levers? Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[Carla Waugh]

Chris that's a great idea I'm not sure he thinks enough people would buy 
Rivendells. It would be nice to see one in person before ordering. Although my 
Sam is exactly what I thought it would be.

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Joe Bernard]

Holy crap that's a nice build! Yes, you're at your shortening limit stem-wise 
so no Moustache for you, but you have plenty of room for Albatross and such-as 
if you ever want to try it. I'm about your size and tend to "buy big" as well: 
I like big, roomy frames that can take a pullback bar without feeling cramped. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[Andrew Huston]

Orc, every time I see a mountain mixte like that I want one a little more. 
Great looking bike. I'd like to know the difference between that and the Clem 
L. 

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Bill Lindsay]

Two people recommended a higher spoke count.  

I'll respectfully disagree with that advice.  One might be in better shape 
going to a higher spoke count if they are breaking spokes.  That failed hub 
flange broke between two spoke holes.  If you go to a higher spoke count, 
that little chunk of material between any two spokes gets even smaller and 
even weaker.  It is true that a good experienced wheelbuilder has a rule of 
thumb for spoke tension that they adjust as a function of number of spokes. 
 Low spoke count wheels need higher tension and higher spoke count wheels 
do not need as high a tension.  Even with that, I don't see a clear 
hypothesis that the OP caused the broken hub by using too few spokes.  I'd 
be more apt to argue the opposite.  32 spokes is plenty with modern rims, 
and the hub flanges would be stronger with only 16 holes drilled in each 
flange.  36 spokes is plenty for any normal single person bike application. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 3:03:14 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> I would press White a little more but maybe a higher spoke count is the 
> way to go
>
> Of course I'm assuming you  sent White the photo and told them how long 
> you had the wheel and what kind of load you're carrying as you told 
> us...and note that kiddies in trailers tend to get heavier...I hauled my 
> son around a lot in a trailer but not touring as you did. At any rate, I'm 
> glad you found a reasonable replacement and carried on and had a great tour 
>  in spite of this, and no one was hurt
>
> Anyway, I hope the story has a satisfactory ending
>
> One of the hallmarks of a  great  company is that they stand behind their 
> product. White hubs are pretty and  pretty spendy
>
> Please let us know what happens.
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:42:57 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>
>> I would go to 40 or 48 spokes for the next wheel. Why fool around trying 
>> to save a few grams on spokes. Replacing a wheel on tour is not worth it. 
>> Kind of like only carrying one water bottle to save weight in my mind. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[Orc]

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 2:58:48 PM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really 
> loves it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what 
> are the little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people 
> in Norman Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.

 
They're for a front rack (like this one:

)


(A much better attachment than a single crown stay;  less wiggle, plus the 
two mountpoints give some additional security against the rack flopping 
forwards and into the tire.)


-david parsons





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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Maybe you all can convince Tobin at Buchanan's to become a Riv dealer.   :) 
 



On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:58:48 PM UTC-5, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really 
> loves it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what 
> are the little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people 
> in Norman Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[adam leibow]

you can use a rear rack on the front. or just more mounting points for 
mark's rack et al. 

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 2:58:48 PM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really 
> loves it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what 
> are the little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people 
> in Norman Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Ryan Fleming]

I would press White a little more but maybe a higher spoke count is the way 
to go

Of course I'm assuming you  sent White the photo and told them how long you 
had the wheel and what kind of load you're carrying as you told us...and 
note that kiddies in trailers tend to get heavier...I hauled my son around 
a lot in a trailer but not touring as you did. At any rate, I'm glad you 
found a reasonable replacement and carried on and had a great tour  in 
spite of this, and no one was hurt

Anyway, I hope the story has a satisfactory ending

One of the hallmarks of a  great  company is that they stand behind their 
product. White hubs are pretty and  pretty spendy

Please let us know what happens.

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:42:57 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> I would go to 40 or 48 spokes for the next wheel. Why fool around trying 
> to save a few grams on spokes. Replacing a wheel on tour is not worth it. 
> Kind of like only carrying one water bottle to save weight in my mind. 

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa question

[Steven Sweedler]

some racks can attach there. There was a picture of rack mounted using them
on the Riv site awhile ago.
On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 5:58 PM Carla Waugh  wrote:

> My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really
> loves it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what
> are the little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people
> in Norman Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.
>
> --
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-- 
Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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[RBW] Appaloosa question

[Carla Waugh]

My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really loves 
it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what are the 
little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people in Norman 
Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.

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[RBW] OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[lconley]

I would go to 40 or 48 spokes for the next wheel. Why fool around trying to 
save a few grams on spokes. Replacing a wheel on tour is not worth it. Kind of 
like only carrying one water bottle to save weight in my mind. 

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Road, 52cm, $1850

[Mark R.]

 Time to go to a new home:  I like to look at it, since 2014 I think I rode 
it twice.  From 2008 to 2013, it was not even built up, just art in my 
computer room.

Of course you want pics, here 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57391630@N02/albums/72157684122009814


Ordered in 2001, built,  by Joe Starck and painted by Joe Bell. Sovereign 
Blue.  Grant designed this for me as a road bike, to take tires 700 by 27 
to 35 with short reach brakes.  I usually have 28s on it, once rode it with 
32's.  32's are the max I would ride it with.  Never ridden in rain, never 
fendered.  Babied, loved, and tucked in at night :0).  

Never crashed, one or two minor chips touched up, biggest visual is that 
there are rub marks from bar con/ergo cables when I had it set up that 
way.  They can probably be rubbed out of the clearcoat.

-Reynolds 753 main tubes, 531 forks, 725 rear triangle
-130 rear spacing
-tt 54 equivalent, seat tube 52, 72.5 parallel angles, bb drop 80, 
Chainstay 43, top tube slope 1.5 degrees
-framesavered when new, and each time between rebuilds (I have had 
different parts on it from time to time)

Most, if not all, of the parts were new when I put them on, mostly Dura Ace 
and Shimano stuff.


- Dura Ace 7800 derailleurs
-7700 downtube shifters, which are new.  I can also substitute a set of 
used old nine speed bar cons
-7402 brakes and levers
-Shimano R700 crank with Dura Ace 7900 bottom bracket
- 3 ttt bars/stem
- wheels are ultegra rear hub laced to Specialized Saturae rim, front is 
Specialized hub to same, 36 holes (not the wheels in the pic).  
-King headset
-Nitto Crystal fellow seat post. 


Full bike (minus saddle, pedals, bottle cages) $1850 shipped in CONUS (bike 
flights)  

Ping me off list if interested.

Mark Rosenberg
SDCA

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[RBW] FS: Schmidt SON28 Dyad 700C wheel - NEW - $350 shipped

[Elton Pope-Lance]

Originally for a project that never will come to be: 

- Schmidt NEW SON28 32h Silver non-disc hub professionally built into a silver 
Velocity Dyad 700C rim.  
- DT Swiss Competition DB spokes, brass nipples.

Straight, true, strong.  Brand new.

Rim strip included.

PayPal (F) preferred.

Please email off-list with interest or questions.

Thanks, with apologies for the cross post.

- Elton

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1981 Miyata 1000, 21", F/F/HS

[Gabriel Bruguier]

Sold.  Thank you.

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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Doug Van Cleve]

Hey John.

If you are the original owner of the hub AND that was the first time it was
built up AND there was nothing funky about the build, I would press for
more from White.  It is a premium MUSA product and that shouldn't have
happened.  Flange breakage is normally from inappropriate lacing patterns
(ie. radial), reusing a previously laced hub and changing the spoke
orientation or a severe impact.  It doesn't sound like any of that
applies...

FWIW,
Doug

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 11:09 AM, John Stowe  wrote:

> Erl: The Erie Canal was a great route for a family tour, and it helped
> that it was so well-supported. My four year old always had another activity
> to look forward to - museums, boat rides, or at least a rest stop with
> copious snacks - so there was suprisingly little grumpiness! Definitely
> recommended.
>
> Patrick: I did send the photo to White, and got a reply suggesting that,
> well, it happens sometimes. Undecided whether to press - there was
> certainly nothing strange about the build (super thick spokes, radial
> lacing, etc.).
>
> Eric: You're either looking at the "spider" for the larger end of the
> cassette, or at the rubber mounting straps for this speed sensor:
> http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/bike-sensors/bluetooth-speed-sensor I
> got sick of aligning magnets, bumping a fork/chainstay sensor out of
> position, etc. so switched to this one, which uses an accelerometer (now
> cheap thanks to cell phones). Mounted on the rear because people have
> reported interference from dynamo hubs.
>

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne - amazing web special deal!

[Bill Lindsay]

...and the link to a web special complete, used 60cm Simple one for $1200 
is here:

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles/products/60cm-simpleone-complete-bike-used-web-special

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:07:34 PM UTC-7, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:
>
> Wish I was taller!
>

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Bill Lindsay]

Who did you buy the hub from?  If you bought it new from a retailer, have 
you recruited that retailer to go to bat for you?  That's part of why you 
pay retail for things, so your retailer will look after you.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 9:14:29 AM UTC-7, John Stowe wrote:
>
> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>
> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>
>
> 
>
> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
> happens sometimes". 
>
> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>
>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>one they want to sell me? 
>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
>like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
>but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
>slightly better.
>
> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
> otherwise fun week of riding!
>
> -John
>
>

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[RBW] SimpleOne - amazing web special deal!

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Wish I was taller!

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[dougP]

John:

Yea, that sounds like you need to pester them a bit more.  

To your question, I have a Shimano XTR hub laced to a Mavic A719 rim on my 
Atlantis for over 10 years & maybe 50k miles.  I just grease the bearings & 
lube the freehub every couple of years.  When I did a lot of touring the 
load was around 50 lbs with 4 panniers plus other junk.  I use 40 mm 
Schwalbe tires.  

dougP

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 9:14:29 AM UTC-7, John Stowe wrote:
>
> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>
> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>
>
> 
>
> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
> happens sometimes". 
>
> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>
>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>one they want to sell me? 
>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
>like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
>but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
>slightly better.
>
> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
> otherwise fun week of riding!
>
> -John
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[WETH]

Dang, that's a gorgeous bike with some awesome details like the fender spacers. 
 Well done!

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Garth]

  White's response to you doesn't sound like this . 
https://wheelworks.co.nz/why-we-choose-to-sell-white-industries/

I would expect the same for you or anyone else, and I would not not stop 
until they replace it. Hub flanges ought not break these days. I would *call 
them*, email is too impersonal and too easy to just dismiss a claim as they 
don't have to listen to the real life customer. 

If not, their reputation as having "great customer service" isn't anything 
at all. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Used 700c and 26 fat (non-knobby) tires and long reach caliper/centerpull brakes

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Of course beyond certain thickness fat tires would become an unpleasant 
'drag'.  My experience is limited to 700x28, 700x32, 650x42 and 650x47.   
 In my style of riding and speeds (~12 MPH average), there is some 
increased effort with 47mm, but it is not that much.  Ride becomes more 
pleasant, which more than makes up for the reduced speed (ie, I keep 
peddling effort at the same level).  



On Wednesday, 26 July 2017 18:45:27 UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Dude, Under, over, whatever--never cross the bride. 
>
> Re: thick dry mud. Chances are good, if what you describe is what I think 
> you are describing, that a standard road tire would have been okay going 
> through that, cutting down to the pavement or otherwise getting some 
> bite--possibly even more control than a fatter tire. I really like fat 
> tires, and they do have lots of benefits, few drawbacks. But they are not 
> magic. And I am somewhat amused with the trend to go fatter and fatter and 
> fatter in every category. I can see how it happens--I got the Barlow Pass 
> tires a while back and my 32s look helplessly skinny. (Of course, even the 
> Barlows are shrimps compared to my Rat Traps.) But at some point things 
> plateau, and also the drawbacks start getting more pronounced. Especially, 
> in my opinion, in the 700c size.
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 3:33:27 PM UTC-4, Ash [who works to bike] 
> wrote:
>>
>> Austin,
>>
>> You go several yards downhill, cross the bride from under and go up 
>> again. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rambling Interview with Grant: Trail, Women's bikes, Low gearing, Current Reading, Etc

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I would bet he is talking about chainstay length, or possibly it's 
relationship to overall wheelbase along with front center. Chainstay length 
is nearly as controversial with some people as trail.
Me, I think a good bike is a good bike. Some have more or less of one 
parameter or another, but there a lot of different ways to cook the same 
dish.

On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 4:23:22 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>
> And nice words on trail! But what is this pointing to?
>
>  Also, there’s another steering/bike handling parameter that probably 
> matters more, although it’s far less well-known than trail is. Everybody at 
> Rivendell knows what it is, we have a name for it, and all of our bikes are 
> designed with it in mind. That’s true whether it’s me designing a new 
> model, or Will or Roman or Mark working on a limited-run Rosco Bubbe. 
> Everybody here knows, but I’m not going to say what it is, because it’s 
> another can of worms, and it’ll attract the meanest mathematicians and 
> physicists on the internet. Why do that?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[dougP]

That part really caught my attention.  It lends credence to the notion that 
trail can't be talked about in isolation, but is just one element of the 
complete design.  Given Grant's refusal to get into the scrum of trail 
discussions, we'll all just have to keep guessing what the magic parameter 
is.  Ah, I can hear another thread opening even now.  

dougP

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 9:02:19 AM UTC-7, Peter Turskovitch wrote:
>
> Grant, from the interview:
>
> "Also, there’s another steering/bike handling parameter that probably 
> matters more, although it’s far less well-known than trail is. Everybody at 
> Rivendell knows what it is, we have a name for it, and all of our bikes are 
> designed with it in mind. That’s true whether it’s me designing a new 
> model, or Will or Roman or Mark working on a limited-run Rosco Bubbe. 
> Everybody here knows, but I’m not going to say what it is, because it’s 
> another can of worms, and it’ll attract the meanest mathematicians and 
> physicists on the internet. Why do that?"
>
> What does everybody think he^s talking about here? I think he's referring 
> to where the rider's center of gravity sits between the hubs, ie "chainstay 
> length". 
>

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[RBW] Re: Source for 8 speed shifters?

[dougP]

Ian, Garth, & Hugh:

Thanks for the input.  That was what I expected but I've been surprised 
before by listers knowing obscure parts sources.  

That was creative how Steve slipped a bit of bike porn into an otherwise 
mundane thread.  Beautiful ride.

dougP

On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:02:28 PM UTC-7, Ian A wrote:
>
> Would these work? DT shifters,  but new. Should work on Thumbies the same. 
>  
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/shimano-tiagra-r400-8sp-downtube-shifter-set/rp-prod13671
>
> On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:47:02 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
>>
>> I have 8 speed Ultegra levers, originally bar ends, mounted on Paul's 
>> thumbie mounts.  The index mechanism on the RH lever is getting worn & 
>> sloppy to the extent it only indexes properly on about half the cogs.  No 
>> big deal but if possible I'd like to buy a new lever.  As you may guess, 
>> all the usual suspects only sell complete bar end assemblies, i.e., both 
>> levers plus mounting pods.  
>>
>> Does anyone know a source for levers only?  Not fussy about pedigree; 
>> could be Microshift, Shimano or other.  Maybe someone sells the index guts 
>> only?  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Eric Norris]

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

P.S. I had a high flange Campy hub (rear) fail in the same way about 30K from 
the end of a 200Km brevet. I gingerly finished the ride on the broken hub.

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Jul 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John Stowe  wrote:
> 
> Erl: The Erie Canal was a great route for a family tour, and it helped that 
> it was so well-supported. My four year old always had another activity to 
> look forward to - museums, boat rides, or at least a rest stop with copious 
> snacks - so there was suprisingly little grumpiness! Definitely recommended.
> 
> Patrick: I did send the photo to White, and got a reply suggesting that, 
> well, it happens sometimes. Undecided whether to press - there was certainly 
> nothing strange about the build (super thick spokes, radial lacing, etc.).
> 
> Eric: You're either looking at the "spider" for the larger end of the 
> cassette, or at the rubber mounting straps for this speed sensor: 
> http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/bike-sensors/bluetooth-speed-sensor I got 
> sick of aligning magnets, bumping a fork/chainstay sensor out of position, 
> etc. so switched to this one, which uses an accelerometer (now cheap thanks 
> to cell phones). Mounted on the rear because people have reported 
> interference from dynamo hubs.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:46:43 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>> John:
>> 
>> What are those black things around the hub?
>> 
>> --Eric N
>> www.CampyOnly.com
>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> 
>>> On Jul 27, 2017, at 10:45 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Oh, for reference, my engine is 200#, my bikepacking load is 280 including 
>>> water and food and bike and engine.
>>> 
>>> With abandon
>>> Patrick 
>>> 
 On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
 I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that photo 
 to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine (after I 
 thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). Not that 
 that helps your hub question much.
 
 With abandon,
 Patrick
 
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
> 
> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've 
> had 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 
> lb. rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did 
> get a pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to 
> damage the rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than 
> brake track wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle 
> of a tour; also a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically 
> amounts to "well, that happens sometimes". 
> 
> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
> I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have one 
> they want to sell me? 
> What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading like 
> mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads but 
> will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires slightly 
> better.
> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
> otherwise fun week of riding!
> 
> -John
> 
>>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW: Your bars look like Noodles. I replaced my 46 cm Noodles with 42s,
then those with 42 cm Maes Parallel clones from Velo Orange. Noodles are
nice, but man! The Parallels are just dandy! 42s on the "road bike for
dirt. I like 38s or so on my Riv Roads. I ride 57s to 60s c-c.)

Parallels must absolutely be set up with the ends of the hooks parallel to
a perfectly flat concrete floor. But oh, those sweet ramps!

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 12:56 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I have to say that your Atlantis is beautiful; certainly, those are the
> nicest fender spacers I've seen!
>
> Back to the M bar on my Hon Solo: I ride most with my hands in or at the
> curves, switching for relief to the hoods; rarely at the ends.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 12:29 PM, ADH  wrote:
>
>> I've been looking at the original moustache bars because you can find
>> them at a few places for under $60. Here's an added consideration for me.
>> I'm in my 60s and I'm fairly short... 5' 6.5" (down from about 5' 8"). I
>> ride a skinny tire 54.5 cm Atlantis which is now as big a frame as I can
>> handle and I don't ride off-road any more. In order to get most
>> comfortable, I recently switched to a 5 cm Nitto stem with my noodle bars,
>> an inch above the seat. (I think it's 5 but might be 6. In any event,
>> really short.) So it's comfortable, but I can't go shorter. The more posts
>> I read, the less inclined I am to switch. I ride mostly on the brake hoods
>> with occasional stints near the stem. I love the look of my Atlantis with
>> drop bars. Plus they're taped and shellacked. So yeah, I just convinced
>> myself to enjoy what I have.
>>
>> Here's a link to my bike if anyone is interested. Flickr Atlantis Pics
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:36:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> When you say moustache, do you mean original moustache, or new moustache
>>> (Albastache)? Either way, I echo most others in saying a shorter stem is in
>>> order. Originals are narrower and more aggressive, so an even shorter stem
>>> may be in order. I love my new moustache, but I shifted from the Albatross.
>>> I use both hand position frequently, with deference to the curves. Unlike
>>> Clay, I find them the most ergonomic for all my riding, and the brakes are
>>> right where I want them for technical trails with rocky, rooty descents.
>>> Whether it's my staple ride of 20-40 miles of mixed terrain or a full day
>>> century plus, or a multi-day tour, these are wondrous to ride. Take your
>>> time dialing them in (as with everything) and you will be well rewarded.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 7:02:18 AM UTC-6, ADH wrote:

 I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost
 10 years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on
 the flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop
 down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized
 that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you
 who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar
 end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks

>>> --
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Patrick Moore]

I have to say that your Atlantis is beautiful; certainly, those are the
nicest fender spacers I've seen!

Back to the M bar on my Hon Solo: I ride most with my hands in or at the
curves, switching for relief to the hoods; rarely at the ends.



On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 12:29 PM, ADH  wrote:

> I've been looking at the original moustache bars because you can find them
> at a few places for under $60. Here's an added consideration for me. I'm in
> my 60s and I'm fairly short... 5' 6.5" (down from about 5' 8"). I ride a
> skinny tire 54.5 cm Atlantis which is now as big a frame as I can handle
> and I don't ride off-road any more. In order to get most comfortable, I
> recently switched to a 5 cm Nitto stem with my noodle bars, an inch above
> the seat. (I think it's 5 but might be 6. In any event, really short.) So
> it's comfortable, but I can't go shorter. The more posts I read, the less
> inclined I am to switch. I ride mostly on the brake hoods with occasional
> stints near the stem. I love the look of my Atlantis with drop bars. Plus
> they're taped and shellacked. So yeah, I just convinced myself to enjoy
> what I have.
>
> Here's a link to my bike if anyone is interested. Flickr Atlantis Pics
> 
>
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:36:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> When you say moustache, do you mean original moustache, or new moustache
>> (Albastache)? Either way, I echo most others in saying a shorter stem is in
>> order. Originals are narrower and more aggressive, so an even shorter stem
>> may be in order. I love my new moustache, but I shifted from the Albatross.
>> I use both hand position frequently, with deference to the curves. Unlike
>> Clay, I find them the most ergonomic for all my riding, and the brakes are
>> right where I want them for technical trails with rocky, rooty descents.
>> Whether it's my staple ride of 20-40 miles of mixed terrain or a full day
>> century plus, or a multi-day tour, these are wondrous to ride. Take your
>> time dialing them in (as with everything) and you will be well rewarded.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 7:02:18 AM UTC-6, ADH wrote:
>>>
>>> I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost
>>> 10 years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on
>>> the flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop
>>> down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized
>>> that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you
>>> who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar
>>> end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks
>>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: I made an Instagram for stuff I'm selling.

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Hi Adam, not sure if you got my PM.  I want those shifters please..

On Thursday, 27 July 2017 08:49:52 UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> glad you guys like this idea. i like the collective hashtag idea. 
> #650rivbob ?
>
> On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 8:52:13 AM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>>
>> I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, because I use instagram a 
>> lot, and sell alotta bike stuff. I post across several forums/google groups 
>> and find that sometimes I just want to see who, of my friends, would be 
>> interested in something I'm selling, so I encouraged my normal instagram 
>> followers to follow my selling account. 
>>
>> If you like instagram, I recommend this idea as it can be fun to have an 
>> inventory all in one place, or just follow me if you want to see what I 
>> have! I am hoping it encourages me to sell more; i've been a bit of a bike 
>> parts hoarder and could use some liquidation. 
>>
>> @adom_sale 
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/adom_sale/
>>
>> I'm hoping the relevance of this post will be found in the content of 
>> what I'm selling; it's not all rivendell related, but some or a lot of it 
>> should be. 
>>
>> thanks, !
>>
>> adam
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[ADH]

I've been looking at the original moustache bars because you can find them 
at a few places for under $60. Here's an added consideration for me. I'm in 
my 60s and I'm fairly short... 5' 6.5" (down from about 5' 8"). I ride a 
skinny tire 54.5 cm Atlantis which is now as big a frame as I can handle 
and I don't ride off-road any more. In order to get most comfortable, I 
recently switched to a 5 cm Nitto stem with my noodle bars, an inch above 
the seat. (I think it's 5 but might be 6. In any event, really short.) So 
it's comfortable, but I can't go shorter. The more posts I read, the less 
inclined I am to switch. I ride mostly on the brake hoods with occasional 
stints near the stem. I love the look of my Atlantis with drop bars. Plus 
they're taped and shellacked. So yeah, I just convinced myself to enjoy 
what I have.

Here's a link to my bike if anyone is interested. Flickr Atlantis Pics 


On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:36:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> When you say moustache, do you mean original moustache, or new moustache 
> (Albastache)? Either way, I echo most others in saying a shorter stem is in 
> order. Originals are narrower and more aggressive, so an even shorter stem 
> may be in order. I love my new moustache, but I shifted from the Albatross. 
> I use both hand position frequently, with deference to the curves. Unlike 
> Clay, I find them the most ergonomic for all my riding, and the brakes are 
> right where I want them for technical trails with rocky, rooty descents. 
> Whether it's my staple ride of 20-40 miles of mixed terrain or a full day 
> century plus, or a multi-day tour, these are wondrous to ride. Take your 
> time dialing them in (as with everything) and you will be well rewarded.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 7:02:18 AM UTC-6, ADH wrote:
>>
>> I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost 10 
>> years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on the 
>> flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop 
>> down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized 
>> that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you 
>> who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar 
>> end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Erl: The Erie Canal was a great route for a family tour, and it helped that 
it was so well-supported. My four year old always had another activity to 
look forward to - museums, boat rides, or at least a rest stop with copious 
snacks - so there was suprisingly little grumpiness! Definitely recommended.

Patrick: I did send the photo to White, and got a reply suggesting that, 
well, it happens sometimes. Undecided whether to press - there was 
certainly nothing strange about the build (super thick spokes, radial 
lacing, etc.).

Eric: You're either looking at the "spider" for the larger end of the 
cassette, or at the rubber mounting straps for this speed 
sensor: http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/bike-sensors/bluetooth-speed-sensor 
I got sick of aligning magnets, bumping a fork/chainstay sensor out of 
position, etc. so switched to this one, which uses an accelerometer (now 
cheap thanks to cell phones). Mounted on the rear because people have 
reported interference from dynamo hubs.



On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:46:43 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> John:
>
> What are those black things around the hub?
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Jul 27, 2017, at 10:45 AM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
> Oh, for reference, my engine is 200#, my bikepacking load is 280 including 
> water and food and bike and engine.
>
> With abandon
> Patrick 
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that 
>> photo to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine 
>> (after I thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). 
>> Not that that helps your hub question much.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>>>
>>> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>>>
>>> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but 
>>> soon discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
>>> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
>>> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
>>> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
>>> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
>>> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
>>> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
>>> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
>>> happens sometimes". 
>>>
>>> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now 
>>> it's time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>>>
>>>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>>>one they want to sell me? 
>>>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy 
>>>loading like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using 
>>> Velocity 
>>>Dyads but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro 
>>> tires 
>>>slightly better.
>>>
>>> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
>>> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
>>> otherwise fun week of riding!
>>>
>>> -John
>>>
>>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Eric Norris]

John:

What are those black things around the hub?

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Jul 27, 2017, at 10:45 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
> 
> Oh, for reference, my engine is 200#, my bikepacking load is 280 including 
> water and food and bike and engine.
> 
> With abandon
> Patrick 
> 
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>> I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that photo 
>> to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine (after I 
>> thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). Not that 
>> that helps your hub question much.
>> 
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>> 
>>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>>> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>>> 
>>> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
>>> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
>>> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
>>> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
>>> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
>>> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
>>> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
>>> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
>>> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
>>> happens sometimes". 
>>> 
>>> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
>>> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>>> I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have one they 
>>> want to sell me? 
>>> What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading like 
>>> mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads but 
>>> will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires slightly 
>>> better.
>>> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
>>> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
>>> otherwise fun week of riding!
>>> 
>>> -John
>>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] WTT: On One Midge 25.4 for 31.8 or Soma Junebug 31.8 Silver

[Eric Norris]

I’ll check when I get home tomorrow.

I would ask my wife to check, but all handlebars look the same to her!

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Jul 27, 2017, at 10:40 AM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Eric,
> 
> Nothing yet. Let me know!
> 
> Thanks,
> Brad
> 
>> On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:27:23 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>> I think I have one, but I won’t be home until Friday to confirm. If you 
>> haven’t found one by then, let me know and I will look.
>> 
>> --Eric N
>> www.CampyOnly.com
>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> 
>>> On Jul 24, 2017, at 12:07 PM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> BIG longshot here...
>>> 
>>> I have an On One Midge silver in 25.4 but my stem is 31.8
>>> 
>>> I would like to run the bar, and will do so with problem solvers shim if 
>>> need be, BUT...
>>> 
>>> Maybe someone has a 31.8 Silver Midge, OR a 31.8 Silver Junebug for even 
>>> trade??
>>> 
>>> What say the forum voices?
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Brad
>>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Deacon Patrick]

Oh, for reference, my engine is 200#, my bikepacking load is 280 including 
water and food and bike and engine.

With abandon
Patrick 

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that photo 
> to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine (after I 
> thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). Not that 
> that helps your hub question much.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>>
>> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>>
>> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
>> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
>> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
>> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
>> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
>> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
>> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
>> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
>> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
>> happens sometimes". 
>>
>> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
>> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>>
>>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>>one they want to sell me? 
>>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy 
>>loading like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using 
>> Velocity 
>>Dyads but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
>>slightly better.
>>
>> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
>> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
>> otherwise fun week of riding!
>>
>> -John
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Deacon Patrick]

I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that photo 
to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine (after I 
thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). Not that 
that helps your hub question much.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>
> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>
> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>
>
> 
>
> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
> happens sometimes". 
>
> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>
>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>one they want to sell me? 
>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
>like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
>but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
>slightly better.
>
> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
> otherwise fun week of riding!
>
> -John
>
>

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Re: [RBW] WTT: On One Midge 25.4 for 31.8 or Soma Junebug 31.8 Silver

['jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Eric,

Nothing yet. Let me know!

Thanks,
Brad

On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:27:23 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> I think I have one, but I won’t be home until Friday to confirm. If you 
> haven’t found one by then, let me know and I will look.
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Jul 24, 2017, at 12:07 PM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
> BIG longshot here...
>
> I have an On One Midge silver in 25.4 but my stem is 31.8
>
> I would like to run the bar, and will do so with problem solvers shim if 
> need be, BUT...
>
> Maybe someone has a 31.8 Silver Midge, OR a 31.8 Silver Junebug for even 
> trade??
>
> What say the forum voices?
>
> Cheers,
> Brad
>
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>
>

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[RBW] OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[WETH]

John,
Bummer about the wheel.  The family tour sounds fun. I look forward to reading 
more about the trip.  Erie Canal is on our family list to tour.
Best wishes,
Erl

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Deacon Patrick]

When you say moustache, do you mean original moustache, or new moustache 
(Albastache)? Either way, I echo most others in saying a shorter stem is in 
order. Originals are narrower and more aggressive, so an even shorter stem 
may be in order. I love my new moustache, but I shifted from the Albatross. 
I use both hand position frequently, with deference to the curves. Unlike 
Clay, I find them the most ergonomic for all my riding, and the brakes are 
right where I want them for technical trails with rocky, rooty descents. 
Whether it's my staple ride of 20-40 miles of mixed terrain or a full day 
century plus, or a multi-day tour, these are wondrous to ride. Take your 
time dialing them in (as with everything) and you will be well rewarded.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 7:02:18 AM UTC-6, ADH wrote:
>
> I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost 10 
> years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on the 
> flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop 
> down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized 
> that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you 
> who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar 
> end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks
>

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Re: [RBW] Source for 8 speed shifters?

[Hugh Smitham]

I was thinking the same. Gorgeous bike! I like how he worked it in on a 
post about shifters.

Doug, I third Ian and Garth's logic. 

~hugh 

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 3:40:39 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> when I see a bike like that, I'm so glad it's not in my frame size - 
> beauty, Steve.  
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 5:31:18 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> Yes, but a complete set is only around $60 so no big deal.  I recently 
>> bought a set while building up my 1963 Jack Taylor Sports.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: I made an Instagram for stuff I'm selling.

[Hugh Smitham]

Good idea. #650brivbob works, to the point and minimal letters & numbers.

~hugh

On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 8:52:13 AM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, because I use instagram a 
> lot, and sell alotta bike stuff. I post across several forums/google groups 
> and find that sometimes I just want to see who, of my friends, would be 
> interested in something I'm selling, so I encouraged my normal instagram 
> followers to follow my selling account. 
>
> If you like instagram, I recommend this idea as it can be fun to have an 
> inventory all in one place, or just follow me if you want to see what I 
> have! I am hoping it encourages me to sell more; i've been a bit of a bike 
> parts hoarder and could use some liquidation. 
>
> @adom_sale 
>
> https://www.instagram.com/adom_sale/
>
> I'm hoping the relevance of this post will be found in the content of what 
> I'm selling; it's not all rivendell related, but some or a lot of it should 
> be. 
>
> thanks, !
>
> adam
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

My problem with Moustache bars is the brake levers. You can only run them 
flat-ish, in line with the bars, which places the levers too high.  For me, 
I found them to be too unergonomic and uncomfortable.   

Clay

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[RBW] OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!

After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:



I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
happens sometimes". 

A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:

   - I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have one 
   they want to sell me? 
   - What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
   like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
   but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
   slightly better.

More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
otherwise fun week of riding!

-John

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[Patrick Moore]

Bill L had an idea -- front center; this is another guess. Perhaps it's
both. All I know is that they've discovered a magic elixer of some sort.

And let the meanies bite. Their refutation is in the ride quality.

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 9:59 AM, Peter Turskovitch 
wrote:

> Grant, from the interview:
>
> "Also, there’s another steering/bike handling parameter that probably
> matters more, although it’s far less well-known than trail is. Everybody at
> Rivendell knows what it is, we have a name for it, and all of our bikes are
> designed with it in mind. That’s true whether it’s me designing a new
> model, or Will or Roman or Mark working on a limited-run Rosco Bubbe.
> Everybody here knows, but I’m not going to say what it is, because it’s
> another can of worms, and it’ll attract the meanest mathematicians and
> physicists on the internet. Why do that?"
>
> What does everybody think he^s talking about here? I think he's referring
> to where the rider's center of gravity sits between the hubs, ie "chainstay
> length".
>
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Re: [RBW] Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Patrick Moore]

Rivendell used always to counsel using a shorter stem and higher position
for Mustache bars compared to drops. Me, I found Mustaches to be more
comfortable is a bit stretched out.

I recently added a 2" extension to the bar "mast" of my Hon Solo, so that
the M bar is about the same height but 2" further forward. My hands were
hurting before -- holding myself up with arms; but with the more extended
position, my torso does more to support itself, and my hands and arms are
correspondingly more comfortable. Of course, YMMV.

Even so, the M bar is not as comfortable as drop bars -- I can ride the
cruising position on the hoods of a drop bar far longer than any single
position on the M bar, and the drops give you the flats for upright and the
hooks for wind (I use my hooks all the time). But now, the M bar is better
for cruising on the curves, also more comfortable for aero on the hoods,
and I can sit up, sort of, by grabbing the ends of the bar.

I've tried M bars on at least 6 bikes, and this is as comfortable as any.
Still, I'd install drops on the Dahon if the shape didn't make the folded
package bigger and the folding operation a wee bit more complex.

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 7:02 AM, ADH  wrote:

> I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost 10
> years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on the
> flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop
> down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized
> that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you
> who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar
> end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks
>
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[RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[Peter Turskovitch]

Grant, from the interview:

"Also, there’s another steering/bike handling parameter that probably 
matters more, although it’s far less well-known than trail is. Everybody at 
Rivendell knows what it is, we have a name for it, and all of our bikes are 
designed with it in mind. That’s true whether it’s me designing a new 
model, or Will or Roman or Mark working on a limited-run Rosco Bubbe. 
Everybody here knows, but I’m not going to say what it is, because it’s 
another can of worms, and it’ll attract the meanest mathematicians and 
physicists on the internet. Why do that?"

What does everybody think he^s talking about here? I think he's referring 
to where the rider's center of gravity sits between the hubs, ie "chainstay 
length". 

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[RBW] Re: I made an Instagram for stuff I'm selling.

[adam leibow]

glad you guys like this idea. i like the collective hashtag idea. 
#650rivbob ?

On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 8:52:13 AM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, because I use instagram a 
> lot, and sell alotta bike stuff. I post across several forums/google groups 
> and find that sometimes I just want to see who, of my friends, would be 
> interested in something I'm selling, so I encouraged my normal instagram 
> followers to follow my selling account. 
>
> If you like instagram, I recommend this idea as it can be fun to have an 
> inventory all in one place, or just follow me if you want to see what I 
> have! I am hoping it encourages me to sell more; i've been a bit of a bike 
> parts hoarder and could use some liquidation. 
>
> @adom_sale 
>
> https://www.instagram.com/adom_sale/
>
> I'm hoping the relevance of this post will be found in the content of what 
> I'm selling; it's not all rivendell related, but some or a lot of it should 
> be. 
>
> thanks, !
>
> adam
>

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[RBW] Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Bill Lindsay]

I ride with drop bars on most of my bikes. If I was going to give Moustache 
bars another try, I would probably use them on my Hillborne.  My Hillborne has 
a Nitto Pearl 11cmstem and Noodle handlebars.  If I switched that bike to 
Moustache bars I would switch out the stem as well to a 9cm Tallux. Pretty much 
always use a shorter stem with Moustache bars than you had used with drop bars. 

Similarly you typically would run a longer stem with Albatross bars than you 
used with drops.  I'd use a 13cm stem with Albatross on my Hillborne. 

Rule of thumb. Your mileage may vary. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca

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[RBW] Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[Jay Connolly]

I set up my Joe with moustache bars for a while. I really liked them, but the 
hoods position on a drop bar pushes me a little further forward, which I like. 
Certainly I could have managed this with a 130 stem on the moustache, but I 
also find that when the bars are an inch above the seat, the drops become more 
useful, so for me, the drops give an extra hand position or two. Still, I 
really like moustache bars, and I'm determined to use the ones I have on 
another bike, sooner or later. I tried a Soma bar because I bought them cheap, 
but I think the Nitto moustache and Albastache are much more attractive in 
their shape.

Jay

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[RBW] Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[iamkeith]

I move my hands around constantly. So "both."  It took me a LONG time to dial 
in moustache bars, finding the right stem, but it sounds like you'd be a good 
candidate if you can make 'em work.  The main thing i'd say is not to shy away 
from that 'stretched out' position - or at least don't preclude it as an option 
by using too short of a stem.  It's nice to have a way to tuck in a head wind 
and, for me, a long and flat back position is markedly easier than the bent 
over and scrunched one achieved with drop bars.  Also, compared to a drop bar, 
it's much easier/instantaneous/intuitive to move your hands to the braking 
position in an emergency, even if you primarily ride in the more upright, rear 
grip position.

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[RBW] Atlantis Bars: Drop or Moustache?

[ADH]

I have been riding my Atlantis with drop bars since I bought it almost 10 
years ago. I ride with my hands either up against the brake hoods or on the 
flat near the stem when I want to be more upright and almost never drop 
down any more. I was all set to switch to a moustache bar when I realized 
that the shape might require me to stretch forward more. Do those of you 
who ride with moustache bars tend to keep your hands outboard near the bar 
end shifters or more inboard near the brake levers? Thanks

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[RBW] Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[Michael Morrissey]

Great interview! Thank you for posting it! 

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Re: [RBW] Source for 8 speed shifters?

[Steve Palincsar]

Thanks!


On 07/27/2017 06:40 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
when I see a bike like that, I'm so glad it's not in my frame size - 
beauty, Steve.


On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 5:31:18 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

Yes, but a complete set is only around $60 so no big deal.  I
recently bought a set while building up my 1963 Jack Taylor Sports.




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Re: [RBW] Source for 8 speed shifters?

[Ron Mc]

when I see a bike like that, I'm so glad it's not in my frame size - 
beauty, Steve.  

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 5:31:18 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Yes, but a complete set is only around $60 so no big deal.  I recently 
> bought a set while building up my 1963 Jack Taylor Sports.
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Source for 8 speed shifters?

[Steve Palincsar]

Yes, but a complete set is only around $60 so no big deal.  I recently 
bought a set while building up my 1963 Jack Taylor Sports.



On 07/26/2017 11:47 PM, dougP wrote:
I have 8 speed Ultegra levers, originally bar ends, mounted on Paul's 
thumbie mounts.  The index mechanism on the RH lever is getting worn & 
sloppy to the extent it only indexes properly on about half the cogs.  
No big deal but if possible I'd like to buy a new lever.  As you may 
guess, all the usual suspects only sell complete bar end assemblies, 
i.e., both levers plus mounting pods.


Does anyone know a source for levers only?  Not fussy about pedigree; 
could be Microshift, Shimano or other.  Maybe someone sells the index 
guts only?


I've never seen bar end shifter levers available that way, and over the 
years I've replaced a few.


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[RBW] Source for 8 speed shifters?

[Garth]

No single source I know of as of today, but speaking of chainreaction, you may 
as well just get the whole pair of 8 sp Ultegra bar ends from them. I bet that 
pair price is about what you'd  pay in the US for a single anyway even if they 
were for sale. If you really like them get more than one pair. 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6480-8sp-bar-end-shifter-set/rp-prod13649

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