Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Philip Williamson]

What happened when you unscrewed the fixed cog? The one time I unscrewed a cog, 
the bike simply freewheeled and I stopped with brakes. I rode home carefully 
and rotafixed the cog.
I also once jacked up a cog that had a lock ring on it! It back-screwed when I 
dropped off a sidewalk, and I rode home carefully and rotafixed the cog. I do 
not understand the physics of that.

That said, it’s probably best not to risk that on a bike packing rig. 

Philip (also -  Hank, you’re the best.)
Santa Rosa, CA 

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[RBW] Re: How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Ron Mc]

Here's one choice - my buddy's '85 Merc with aggressive road geometry 
barely fits 23mm tires


He has the Portland Design Works fenders and he needed them on this 
morning, riding in a steady mist

Another friend's '85 Merc, very different frame geometry (note the trail), 
a bit bigger tires and wooden fenders

  


  

My '74 Raleigh with Honjos and 32mm tires


Here we sometimes get out in the wet because it's time to get out - more 
often ride in the sun after a monsoon rain clears out and leaves broken 
puddles.  

Everyone should have at least one fender bike to have the option.  

As far as match goes, white plastic Bluemels have their perfect match.  






This one has the optional Race Blades, using a PDW Origami front splash 
guard on the seat tube to make it near-enough full coverage




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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Jim M.]

The only place I've backpedaled a fixed cog off a freewheel hub is in the 
mountains, never on the road, which is why I wouldn't recommend it. The 
braking needed on steep dirt trails is far more than needed on pavement. I 
also use front and back brakes on all of my fixed gear bikes.

jim m
wc, ca

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[RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Joe Bernard]

I'm in California (where it's raining like heck at the moment) and not a huge 
fender fan for the mostly dry weather we get. But I have one bike (Breezer 
Doppler) I bought specifically to be the fendered shopper bike; its only 
purpose is to get me to the store and back in any weather I dare to pedal in. 
It's a nice way to have fenders when needed, but not be stuck with them all the 
time. 

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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Ron Mc]

Bill, those long front French-style fenders (Honjo) buffet badly without 
the additional front rack attachment - to the point you worry about them 
possibly contacting the tire at speed.  
Regards

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:57:35 PM UTC-6, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> ...
> Ron, 
>
> Yours looks beautiful.  Those are the kind of pictures that sometimes make 
> think I want to try.  While my setup did have some rattle noise up front, 
> that is something I think I can address.  The noise I’m wondering about in 
> particular is not actually noise the fender is making but the drivetrain 
> noise that the rear fender seems to pick up and amplify.   
> ...
> Bill

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[RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[tc]

Roberta. A lot of good points here. I’ll just add that, if you load your bike 
on a car rack, ensure your fenders won’t prevent that, or won’t get damaged in 
the process. 

We have a 1up rack. It is the most awesome rack.  However, the little padded 
foam rollers they offer to protect your fenders do not seem to offer a good 
hold on the bike unless you put more pressure on the fenders than I like. We 
have removed our fenders since we do not commute nor do we choose to ride in 
the rain...and I personally am fine with the look of my bikes sans fenders. So, 
problem solved for us. 

There are some racks that ha e large hooks that hold the bike down by the top 
tube. I used to have a Thule like that; it would hold two bikes and not touch 
the fenders.  It that rack weighed a lot more than the 1up, and took a lot 
longer to load and unload. 

My wife can easily install the 1up. and load unload bikes. Not so with any 
other 2-bike hitch mount rack. 

Tom

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Jon Dukeman,central Colorado]

Adam
There are over 11k photos to look at.mostly Rivendells

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[RBW] WTB: 10sp index shifter

[Drw]

I’m looking for a 10 speed shifter that will index and fit on a Paul thumbie 
mount. Shimano and microshift do. Others may as well. If you’ve got something 
lying around, please let me know. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Patrick Moore]

Adam: Nice Sam. I like the bottles too, tho' it seems that the color
doesn't match the frame? (I'm somewhat color blind.) But they are nice; who
makes those? Are they double-walled?

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 6:53 PM Adam Leibow  wrote:

> jon dukeman, thanks for this! i hadnt seen it.
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 6:19:44 AM UTC-8, Jon Dukeman,central
> Colorado wrote:
>>
>> Adam Have you looked at this site. You can post your pics here too.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendell/
>> Jon
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 1, 2019 at 12:29:13 PM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>>>
>>> hi all, i want to create a thread where you just post a picture of your
>>> rivendell(s) whenever you feel like it. hope this is OK w/ the mods. i love
>>> lookin at pics of em all day. i will start with my sam hillborne.
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_3920.jpeg]
>>>
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-- 



**





*Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
--- J.R.R. Tolkien
---
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
Other professional writing services
Expensive! But good.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique

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Re: [RBW] Re: How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Patrick Moore]

I once weighed Honjo, Berthoud stainless, and some plastic fender pairs and
found that the Honjos weighed 1 lb, the Berthouds 1.5 lb, and the plastics
2 lb. Size in all cases more or less 559 X 45-50; weights included all
hardware. OTOH, I more recently weighed the admittedly truncated PB
Cascadia 700X X 65 pair (rear cut short so it didn't need struts): 1 lb.
FWIW.

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 6:10 PM 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:


> ... Stainless is probably the toughest, but they're heavy.
>

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Philip. Aye, it’s the low gear that concerns me. With bikepacking load 
it will have the rear wheel portion of 280 lbs on it including my 200 lb 
engine. I rarely skid except in mud or snow, and I tend to use backpedaling as 
my primary brake, and I brake hard as needed, only going to handbrakes when 
needed to suppliment. So it will be ridden hard enough that I’m not sure I want 
to push it with a fixed on freewheel, even with the Rotafixed (I understand the 
physics of it). The threaded fixed eccentric hub sounds like the way to go. 
Now, to find one 135, 36 hole, silver. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

No I assumed that; I will buy the sum total of Rich’s build.
Offer still stands.  That way you can experiment for free without double 
dipping if the experiment fails.

Ryan

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The most challenging conditions for fenders I rode, before giving up on them 
for a variety of reasons, this among them, is wet/slushy that freezes. 
Splash/wet snow builds up and packs in and freezes solid, be it mud or snow or 
combo. This happens when the sun warms the road to make things wet but the air 
temp remains below freezing. This can happen as low as 15-20˚F if the sun is 
strong. Well, that and peanutbutter mud at any temperature.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Adam Leibow]

jon dukeman, thanks for this! i hadnt seen it. 

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 6:19:44 AM UTC-8, Jon Dukeman,central 
Colorado wrote:
>
> Adam Have you looked at this site. You can post your pics here too.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendell/
> Jon
>
>
> On Friday, February 1, 2019 at 12:29:13 PM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>>
>> hi all, i want to create a thread where you just post a picture of your 
>> rivendell(s) whenever you feel like it. hope this is OK w/ the mods. i love 
>> lookin at pics of em all day. i will start with my sam hillborne.
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_3920.jpeg]
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

No worries, Ryan, and I am thankful for your offer. I’d be buying the hub only 
and having it shipped to Riv for Rich to build up anyroad. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Of course for the serious fenderscenti, it's a big faux pas to run them without 
the proper mud flaps installed...

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[RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Philip Williamson]

I think fenders are a great boon to bicycle riding. You can run errands in iffy 
weather, or get out after a storm when the roads are wet, but it’s not raining. 
I feel like my fenders opened up a lot of riding days, even in California. 
I do “take a bet on the weather,” on my commute sometimes, because I don’t lose 
too much is it does rain. I’ll be damp, but not muddy and gross. I ride in my 
work clothes, and I wouldn’t without fenders.

As for color, silver, or black, it depends on the bike. I painted my fenders 
green to match the Quickbeam, I had aluminum fenders on a black bike, and I 
just put shiny steel fenders on my shiny green “nice” bike. The new orange bike 
will probably get black fenders if I can find them or paint them.

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA 

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Philip Williamson]

This is the option I would recommend. Older used ENO that takes normal cogs. 
I’ve ridden thousands of fixed miles with Rotafixed cogs. Bike shop broke a 
Park chain whip trying to remove a cog of mine. Rota-UN-fixing loosened it 
easily. 

Cogs are more likely to come loose with a lower gear of course, but if you have 
brakes I think you’ll be fine. Two reasons I think that - 1: When you brake 
suddenly, and backpedal massively, the rear lifts enough to skid, and not 
unscrew the cog. 2: Using brakes mean you never really backpedal with all your 
force anyway. 

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Metin Uz,
My apologies I did not see your potential sale to the good Deacon.  I did not 
intend to take a sale away from anyone.

Ryan Hankinson

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Tektro R559s (or RBW Silver equivalent)

[sameness]

ETA: PM off-list or email to sameness at Gmail [dot] com. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Deacon,
I highly recommend you give the ENO a go on your fixed gear hillybike.  As a 
fellow Riv connoisseur who is extremely loyal I
would hate for you to spend $1100 to upgrade a stock frame.  I have bought 4 
new Riv bikes for family members and have purchased 5 used ones to accommodate 
my 99.5 PBH.

Go with the first option.  I will buy your rear ENO wheel for whatever it costs 
you, if it does not completely meet your needs and desires.  Seriously.  Win 
Win for us both; any outlay you have for the experiment can be applied to the 
dropout replacement if necessary.  I am on a fixed budget and frugal but happy 
to help Rivendell both directly and indirectly as much as possible.  The joy I 
get from following you and your bike exploits vicariously almost matches my own 
riding and wrenching.

Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan

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[RBW] WTB: Tektro R559s (or RBW Silver equivalent)

[sameness]

[X-Post -> iBOB]

Looking for a used pair of Tektro R559 brakes in recessed Allen mount. Ye 
Olde RBW Silver ones would work, too.

Didn't realize how cheap these could be had new, so I guess I'm looking for 
more of a "Get them out of my parts bin" than a "I've got kids in college" 
sorta transaction.)

If you've got them and would like them to go elsewhere, please let me know 
how much monies shipped to ZIP 90064, please and thanks!

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Patrick Moore]

Well, if I ever buy a Clem, I'll seriously consider a basket too. Which
raises a question: I've tried front baskets on at least 2 bikes, including
the huge Newsboy on one bike, and I didn't like the effect on steering even
with the bare basket, let alone adding any load big enough to make having a
basket there worthwhile. (Funny story: I once tried putting 2 cinderblocks
into the Newsboy -- 56 lb iirc. I could hardly keep the rear wheel on the
ground, let alone steer well -- rode it down my cul de sac and back and
immediately decided that even Newsboys have weight limits.)

Of course, I mounted my Walds with the OEM struts. How heavy a load do you
(all) find you can carry in a Wald on a front rack without annoying
steering consequences?

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 7:05 AM J Edward  wrote:

> Patrick, the slush would build up from time to time but always fell out on
> its own before it got annoying. I was also going half my normal speed and
> spinning very low gears through the deeper stuff though, not sure if that
> made a difference.
>
> I can’t recommend a Clem (or a basket, for that matter) highly enough!
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:49:19 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
> > "J": didn't you get slush buildup under your fenders? I use similar (SKS
> 65s) over my (minimal tread) Big Ones, and got annoying though not
> inhibiting rubbing at the bottom of the rear fender. Snow, not slush, but
> wettish, and over dirt.
> >
> >
> > Nice bikes posted on this thread.
> >
> >
> > Patrick Moore, who may one day buy a Clem (but not a basket) in ABQ, NM.
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 5:48 PM J Edward  wrote:
> >
> > Here’s my trusty Clem, Big Eddy,  on my ride home from work Friday after
> a week of commuting through all the atypical snow, ice and slush we have up
> here in Seattle. I bought this bike from a list member about 11 months ago
> (thanks again, Doug!) and after this week I’m now thoroughly convinced I
> can ride this guy just about anywhere I need to go!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> >
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> >
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> >
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> > Still 'round the corner there may wait
> > A new road or a secret gate,
> > And though we pass them by today,
> > Tomorrow we may come this way
> > And take the hidden paths that run
> > Towards the Moon or to the Sun.
> > --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> >
> > ---
> > Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> >
> > By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> > Other professional writing services
> >
> > Expensive! But good.
> > http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Metin Uz, I sent you a pm (which sometimes goes flooey kablooey, so letting you 
know here too.)

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yeah, but see, I’ve learned. Well, maybe. A smidge. I’m MOSTLY looking at HOW 
to get the gearing before I figure out the specifics for achieving the gearing 
I want. Obviously, I’m failing. Happily, but failing. Grin.

I’m playing with just how ridable a 50” gear is for everything. Going uber 
simple one gear has it’s appeal, but gets tricky with this big bumpy things I 
live on. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Patrick Moore]

I live in high desert country where annual snow/rain fall amounts to 14" at
the foothills and 5" on the West Mesa. I have fenders on 3 of my 4 bikes,
because it's nice to be able to ride on those few days when it rains or (!)
snows. At least, I have 2 bikes with permanent fenders and one -- dirt road
bike -- with summer monsoon and winter snow fenders; about 4 or 5 months of
the year.

Color: Depends on the "aesthetic" of the bike. My Riv has silver because it
has a classic look and all the bits are silver. The "road bike for dirt"
has a somewhat agressive industrial, brutal aesthetic (albeit with fine
bilaminate construction and a delicately curved fork) and I built it with
black parts, so I prefer black -- but accept SKS silver fenders because
they fit better than the Planet Bike ones and I got them very cheap. My
grocery/dog runner/beater folder has cheap black ones because they were
available in the 20" size and they were very cheap.

If your bike doesn't have knobby tires, and if there is sufficent gap
between fender and tire, I'd not worry about danger with metal fenders; and
even so, I hear you can get safety tabs for metal fenders. IMO, metal
fenders, black or silver, do look better than plastic.

Velo Orange has Honjo knockoffs that are not quite as high quality but
perfectly acceptable and much cheaper than Honjos; and there are other
makers of aluminum and stainless steel fenders, in silver and black.

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 3:14 PM REC (Roberta)  wrote:

> I've seen a lot of posts about fenders recently, and I have lots of
> questions about them.  I've never known about fenders until about two years
> ago when I learned about Rivendell, joined this board, and bought my
> SKS-fendered Joe A., my first bike with fenders.  I don't ride in the rain,
> but I have to admit that I like the idea of nothing wet, dry, or
> dusty spraying up on me is appealing.  Or, does one not really need them if
> only riding in dry weather?
>
> Color--how do you choose a color?  I thought black would be inconspicuous,
> but I like the look of the silver fenders.  I saw a post the other day
> where the fenders matched the bike.  Very nice!  Or, is no fenders better?
>
> Material--I understand that plastic fenders are safer than other materials
> because you can install a safety tab.  The other fender materials don't
> have this option, as I understand, and one might go over the handlebars in
> case of foreign object between tire and fender.
>
> Which bike/types of bikes do you decide to fender or not?  Riding
> conditions?  Does length of ride or speed have any bearing?  Is it just
> esthetics?
>
> What other options you take into consideration?
>
> I'm asking this as a general question, although I have a Champaign-colored
> step thru that I think would look great with hammered Honjo fenders--to me
> and to thieves!  For now, it will remain a non-fendered bike.
>
> Roberta
>
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Re: [RBW] FS: 51cm Appaloosa full bike or frame and 50cm MIT Atlantis frame

[Joe Bernard]

Dude, that Appa fork crown is sweet!

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Patrick Moore]

I was thinking of your Quickbeam. I daresay you could reduce the ring sizes
and get more or less the same results, but I spent enough time calculating
for 700X X 40s and I ain't gonna do any more tonight.

But it's fun. Amazing how much you can obsess about gearing when you have
only 1 or 2 or 3 gears to worry about!

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 5:36 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Patrick. I’ve no idea on actual diameter, but on Sheldon’s Gear
> Calculator I use: 29x2.7”, 172.5 cranks, gear inches.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Patrick Moore]

Bill: I've installed innumerable fenders of all kinds, from Blumels to
Zefals, plastic, plasticized aluminum, polycarbonate, steel, stainless
steel, and aluminum. Here's what I've found.

Once you've installed fenders a few times, it becomes relatively easy as
long as you don't have to reshape them --eg, recurve, or dimple to clear
calipers or fork legs or chainstays. But even all of that isn't too hard if
you go slow and methodical -- I don't, and messed up several nice expensive
metal fenders on the way to learning how to do it properly.

Fenders don't play nice with horizontal dropouts, though if you are using a
derailleur, it should be possible to set them up in a way that best fits
the tire if you use dropout screws to keep the axle always at the same
point in the dropouts. And it should be possible to do this while allowing
the wheel to come out of the dropouts easily.

For example, if you were to position your axle further forward, you'd get a
better fender line wrt the tire. Alternatively, if your stays are long
enough to allow this while still allowing easy wheel removal, you could
space the forward end of the fender out from the chainstay bridge by a
little bit.

I've managed to get decent, if not perfect chainline on my 2003 Road that
has very long dropouts, at least when the drivetrain is set in the cruising
gear; but the fenders still accommodate a 5-tooth cog differnence -- 17/19
and 22 flip side. One thing that lets me do this more easily is that, for
another reason altogether -- convenience in parking the bike and shoving it
into the back of a car -- I amputate my rear fenders so that they end just
above the rearmost part of the tire; ie, just short enough that I can back
the rear tire enthusiastically into a wall and miss the fender.

As to strength and quiet: poly carb (Planet Bike) and plastic/alum (SKS)
are IME every bit as strong as metal if not strong; certainly stronger than
my current VO hammered aluminums (tho' the VOs are perfectly adequate).
I've dented Honjos, Berthouds, and VOs, but never dented or cracked PB or
SKS.

And if properly installed, polycarb and SKSs are as quiet as metal; in
fact, while the present VOs don't rattle, they are considerably more noisy
when the tire kicks a piece of gravel around the inside of the fender. I
have used PB polycarbs and, presently, SKSs on my dirt road Matthews, and
apart from the SKS strut brackets crowding the 60mm+ tires and occasionally
buzzing lightly, they are quiet and certainly strong; there is about 2" of
toe overlap with the front, so that I often kick it in turns; no problems.

*I* would like to try Kelpie's custom, hand-beated titanium fenders on the
Matthews, but at $300 to $350, it's hard to justify them in a place that
gets an average of 9" citywide rain and snow per year. I ought to refashion
the fender brackets on the SKSs, tho' even these have not been a real
problem.

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 9:23 AM Bill Schairer  wrote:

> I’ve ridden with fenders off and on going way back.  I’ve only used
> plastic fenders and never paid too much attention to the cosmetics of it
> all - just tried to get them on and running without tire rub.  Naturally,
> seeing all the beautiful pictures of bikes that show up here with nice
> metal fenders, or wood, I’ve wondered what it would be like to get some
> nice aluminum fenders installed instead of the SKS I have on my Atlantis.
> Not only might they look nice but I’ve read they don’t rattle as much so
> are quieter than plastic fenders.
>
> A few weeks ago, I bought an old Univega touring bike that had been
> customized. What caught my attention was the full dynamo hub lighting
> system.  I bought the bike for no other reason than to get the lighting
> system for my Atlantis.  Although the bike was old and the build overall
> did not look too recent, the lighting system seemed to be almost unused and
> I got the whole bike for less than what I could have built up my own new
> lighting system.
>
> So back to fenders.  In addition to the lights, this bike had Honjo
> fenders so here was my chance to see what some nice aluminum fenders are
> all about.  Unfortunately, the fenders are rather narrow so there was no
> way I could install them on my Atlantis with the 50mm tires I’m running.  I
> chose instead to install them on my old Trek 720 mostly just to see what
> they were all about.  I had read that metal fenders can be a challenge to
> install requiring patience.  I learned this is true.  What, I think, I also
> discovered is that these fenders wrap so much of the tire that removing and
> installing the rear wheel with the horizontal dropouts is a bit of a
> challenge and a nice fender line pretty much impossible (not that that was
> ever very important to me).  I have tentatively decided these things are
> made for bikes with vertical dropouts.
>
> What I have not been able to confirm is that metal fenders are quiet or
> even quieter than plastic fenders.  On my first ride, the front 

Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Patrick. I’ve no idea on actual diameter, but on Sheldon’s Gear 
Calculator I use: 29x2.7”, 172.5 cranks, gear inches.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[tc]

Jeremy, I hear you.  Do we know that the Atlantis fork, albeit narrower, is 
not as stout?  Good point about the chain line; will have to ask Riv what 
their thoughts were when they set up that 1x12 Atlantis.

The 59 Clem feels too big & long on the single track I ride.  On my first 
Clem H, I felt like I was driving a moving van through the trees -- and I 
sold it for this reason, and also because I just couldn't deal without a 
squishy fork.  I got a second Clem because I re-imagined using it as a 
knock-around road/path/greenway bike, I love the green, and it's great.

Comparing the 59 Clem H to the 59 Atlantis, the Atlantis has:

   - 1cm more standover  (I can aim for 1cm taller roots ...)
   - 3.5cm shorter top tube (
   - A double top tube (looks cool, but also hunq stout, I'm thinking)
   - 3.5cm shorter front-center (I'm good)
   - 5mm less tire clearance (I'm good)

Unsure about the total length, but it's gotta be a bit shorter.

Ima talk to Will and see what he thinks to get his thoughts on handling of 
Clem vs Atlantis, as well as stoutness of those 2 vs Hunq.  

Still noodling...

Tom

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Re: [RBW] FS: 51cm Appaloosa full bike or frame and 50cm MIT Atlantis frame

[Ash]

My PBH is 81cm.

The 51cm Appaloosa is slightly bigger than the 50cm Atlantis.  They both 
are well within the geometry range I find comfortable.  I like riding the 
Atlantis around the town, busy streets etc.  For longer rides 51cm Joe has 
been my default pick. 

In fact 46cm Appaloosa is almost identical to 50cm MIT Atlantis.  For my 
utility bike (the one with rocks, basket and fenders) I like 26" wheel 
better.  Why go from 50cm Atlantis to 46cm Appaloosa?  Two reasons (1) 
color (2) my inexplicable liking for those bolts in Appaloosa fork crown :)



On Wednesday, 13 February 2019 15:21:15 UTC-8, ed wrote:
>
> Hi Ash,
>
> Could you tell me your pbh?
> Is both 51 Appaloosa and 50 MIT Atlantis too big for you?
>
> Regards,
> Es
>
> On 14 Feb 2019, at 5:29 AM, Ash > wrote:
>
> Selling two Rivs to build two new Rivs.
>
>
> For now Bay Area only, until I figure out shipping logistics.
>
> MIT Atlantis 50cm Frame - $1,100
>
> 2017 green 51cm Joe Appaloosa - $1,525
> Frame only - $925
>
> - Rich built Velocity Atlas wheels with SP dynohub and VO Grand Cru rear 
> hub
> - Pasela tires (less than 200 miles)
> - Sugino wide/low crankset
> - XT 9 speed RD
> - XT cassette 11-34t
> - Microshift 9 speed thumb shifters
> - Deore V-brakes
> - Tektro brake levers
> - Nitto Dirtdrop stem
> - Sunlite Northroad Touring Handlebar
> - Bikeroo saddle
> - Origin 8 removable grips 
> - Clem Smith Pedals
>
> Will post pictures when the weather gets better (not enough space indoors 
> to take good pictures)
>
> Replacing the 50cm MIT Atlantis with the last available 46cm Appaloosa 
> frame I bought today.  
> MIT AHH will replace the green Appaloosa.  
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Patrick Moore]

Dol blurn it!

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 5:14 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> 
>
> And: 36X18 = *54 t total.*
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking for ideas for making Boots a fixed gear Allways Adventure Beastie
>> (I’m currently leaning toward option 1).
>>
>> *Goal*: Three fixed gears that can be simply shifted on the road/trail
>> to cover all terrains. Gears needed:
>> *High*: 60-70” for long road descents. Yes, I could go with a lower gear
>> freewheel, but fixed is far preferred for me.
>> *Main*: 50” for most terrain, at least round these parts.
>> *Low*: 40-43” for steeper trails, snow, mud, mush, et al.
>>
>> To head off the inevitable “why fixed, that’s nuts!” responses: I’m set
>> on fixed. Why? I’ve constant neurological vertigo as part of my bludgeoned
>> brain, and fixed gear means more feedback for proprioception to work and
>> helps me recover as I ride 2-4 times as much as freewheel riding on the
>> same bike. Plus, I love the way it rides, so even if my brain heals to the
>> point this is no longer the case, I may well stay fixed because I love it.
>>
>> Options I see:
>> 1. White Ind. ENO Eccentric Hub on stock frame. I’ve watched videos of
>> gear tensioning and it looks simple enough with practice, even with a
>> loaded bike. Challenge: Fixed side requires WI proprietary cog, not dingle
>> option. I see two ways to address this. A. shift by removing the lock ring
>> and swapping cogs, having a matching chainring for each of the three gears
>> to keep the total number of teeth identical. B. Single cog/dingle cog
>> “locked” onto the freewheel side, same triple chain ring setup. Either way,
>> I’d go for roughly a 4t delta in the cogs, with the same for the chainrings.
>>
>> Advantages: keeps Boots with the option of using freewheel in the future,
>> lower cost (presuming it works and the ENO hub holds for fixed gear
>> bikepacking). WI says it isn’t designed for fixed gear, let alone
>> bikepacking, but they know it can work on a steel frame (no go on aluminum
>> for lack of grip).
>>
>> Disadvantages: May not hold under high torque load. Worst case scenario
>> is I have to re tension the chain, WI says. They say the hub is rock solid.
>> If this happens too often, I’d need to go to option two.
>>
>> 2. Replace the dropouts to be horizontal. Configure similarly to my
>> current Quickbeam and Hunqabeam.
>>
>> Advantages: known, solid, reliable, purpose built for fixed gear. Tested
>> for bikepacking on all terrains and works great.
>>
>> Disadvantages: cost, including a repaint is $800-1,000.
>> ~~~
>>
>> Anything I’ve not thought of? Anything to consider? Experience abusing an
>> ENO eccentric hub similarly? Best practices for a fixed cog locking on a
>> freewheel hub? Thanks!
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>>
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>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
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> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
>

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**





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though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
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---
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Patrick Moore]

Patrick:

This is fun!

I am assuming a 28" actual diameter wheel and more or less readily
available parts (ie, no 31 t rings or 25 t cogs).

A. Vertical dropouts.

1. ENO + 40/36/34 chainrings; 17/20 Dingle; flip side (don't backpedal) 22
t cog.

66, 50, 43 gi.

40 + 17 = 57 teeth.
36 + 20 = 56 teeth.
34 + 22 = 56 teeth.

Only 1 tooth's worth of axle movement, which the ENO ought to handle.

I'll bet that if you keep your chain taut and the rings centered, the wee
chain offset will be fine if yu center the 36 in the middle of the Dingle.

The Surly 22 t cog is 3/32, so 9 speed chain will work (9 speed required
for Dingle).

http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=3837


Why would this require a proprietary cog? They didn't used to; the 2 ENOs I
owned took regular screw-on cogs.

Also, I don't see why this setup would not stand up to any torque less than
Marty Nothstein would put out at max effort.

B. Horizontals

1. S3X (If *only* the idiots had made it direct/-75%/-56.25%, or else
direct/-90%,/-75%; in fact, it's direct/-25%/62.5%. But if you can stand
the lash, with a 42 t ring and an 18 t cog and the presumed 28" tire, you'd
get 65, 49 and 41 gi. Some people don't mind the lash.

2. Fixed/fixed hub. I've played around with this, and with stock hubs you'd
have to use a Dingle on one side to get 3 gears total, so no different from
A (1) above.

BUT!

3. Get Phil to make you a fixed/fixed hub that will take 2 individual fixed
cogs per side; at least, 20 years ago they told me they'd be happy to make
a fixed/- cog that would take 3 cogs on one side; $400 in 1998 dollars; I
regretfully demurred. But with this, the sky's the limit:

36/32 X 15/18/22; arrange the cogs as you wish, one side or 2/1. 67, 50, 41
gi.

Actually without stretching the dropouts' capacity you'd also get a 36X18
gear for 56 gi.

36X15 = 51 teeth total.
32X18 = 50 teeth total.
32X22 = 54 teeth total.
And: 36X18 = 43 t total.

Thus no more than 4 teeth difference, or 1/2" total axle movement.




On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Looking for ideas for making Boots a fixed gear Allways Adventure Beastie
> (I’m currently leaning toward option 1).
>
> *Goal*: Three fixed gears that can be simply shifted on the road/trail to
> cover all terrains. Gears needed:
> *High*: 60-70” for long road descents. Yes, I could go with a lower gear
> freewheel, but fixed is far preferred for me.
> *Main*: 50” for most terrain, at least round these parts.
> *Low*: 40-43” for steeper trails, snow, mud, mush, et al.
>
> To head off the inevitable “why fixed, that’s nuts!” responses: I’m set on
> fixed. Why? I’ve constant neurological vertigo as part of my bludgeoned
> brain, and fixed gear means more feedback for proprioception to work and
> helps me recover as I ride 2-4 times as much as freewheel riding on the
> same bike. Plus, I love the way it rides, so even if my brain heals to the
> point this is no longer the case, I may well stay fixed because I love it.
>
> Options I see:
> 1. White Ind. ENO Eccentric Hub on stock frame. I’ve watched videos of
> gear tensioning and it looks simple enough with practice, even with a
> loaded bike. Challenge: Fixed side requires WI proprietary cog, not dingle
> option. I see two ways to address this. A. shift by removing the lock ring
> and swapping cogs, having a matching chainring for each of the three gears
> to keep the total number of teeth identical. B. Single cog/dingle cog
> “locked” onto the freewheel side, same triple chain ring setup. Either way,
> I’d go for roughly a 4t delta in the cogs, with the same for the chainrings.
>
> Advantages: keeps Boots with the option of using freewheel in the future,
> lower cost (presuming it works and the ENO hub holds for fixed gear
> bikepacking). WI says it isn’t designed for fixed gear, let alone
> bikepacking, but they know it can work on a steel frame (no go on aluminum
> for lack of grip).
>
> Disadvantages: May not hold under high torque load. Worst case scenario is
> I have to re tension the chain, WI says. They say the hub is rock solid. If
> this happens too often, I’d need to go to option two.
>
> 2. Replace the dropouts to be horizontal. Configure similarly to my
> current Quickbeam and Hunqabeam.
>
> Advantages: known, solid, reliable, purpose built for fixed gear. Tested
> for bikepacking on all terrains and works great.
>
> Disadvantages: cost, including a repaint is $800-1,000.
> ~~~
>
> Anything I’ve not thought of? Anything to consider? Experience abusing an
> ENO eccentric hub similarly? Best practices for a fixed cog locking on a
> freewheel hub? Thanks!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[Ron Mc]

My Honjo fenders make no noise whatsoever.  Rather than a kit, get the 
undrilled blanks from Jitensha, drill all your own holes, customize all 
your hardware, use fork crown daruma, rubber washser, figure how to attach 
them to your front rack

   


Tire wipers mounted backwards scrape mud from the tires and reject 
everything except chalk from entering your fenders

   

I've had these flipped backwards - they don't do anything except squeal and 
reject the stick that flipped them backwards.  



they work, and they look damn good



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Re: [RBW] FS: 51cm Appaloosa full bike or frame and 50cm MIT Atlantis frame

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Ash,

Could you tell me your pbh?
Is both 51 Appaloosa and 50 MIT Atlantis too big for you?

Regards,
Es

> On 14 Feb 2019, at 5:29 AM, Ash  wrote:
> 
> Selling two Rivs to build two new Rivs.
> 
> 
> For now Bay Area only, until I figure out shipping logistics.
> 
> MIT Atlantis 50cm Frame - $1,100
> 
> 2017 green 51cm Joe Appaloosa - $1,525
> Frame only - $925
> 
> - Rich built Velocity Atlas wheels with SP dynohub and VO Grand Cru rear hub
> - Pasela tires (less than 200 miles)
> - Sugino wide/low crankset
> - XT 9 speed RD
> - XT cassette 11-34t
> - Microshift 9 speed thumb shifters
> - Deore V-brakes
> - Tektro brake levers
> - Nitto Dirtdrop stem
> - Sunlite Northroad Touring Handlebar
> - Bikeroo saddle
> - Origin 8 removable grips 
> - Clem Smith Pedals
> 
> Will post pictures when the weather gets better (not enough space indoors to 
> take good pictures)
> 
> Replacing the 50cm MIT Atlantis with the last available 46cm Appaloosa frame 
> I bought today.  
> MIT AHH will replace the green Appaloosa.  
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Justin, Oakland]

Bill-
Checking their conversion pages: 
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/conversion-charts/end-cap-solution-mtb-rear/
it's evident that nearly all of their MTB hubs are convertible to 5mm QR 
and that includes their XD driver hubs. You just need to find the right 
parts (which is fairly easy actually).

Basically any 142 spaced hub that can be converted via endcaps that also 
has an XD driver can be used in a 135 frame since 142 and 135 are the 
different axle analogs to each other in terms of width. I have a DT Swiss 
350 hub that I have converted from QR to 142 TA and currently have the kit 
to convert it to XD just in case. It is 6 bolt disc however.

White stocks their XD conversion kit here: 
http://www.whiteind.com/xd-driver-conversion

I hope you can get them to sell you a non-disc hub with that stock so you 
don't have to pay extra. Or you could get their CLD hub here: 
https://www.whiteind.com/cld for centerlock, 135 QR and XD driver 
compatibility.

-J

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:53:24 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Justin
>
> White Industries doesn't have any model listed on their site that is 
> 135mm, QR, with an XD driver.  I called White and left a message asking 
> exactly that.  I assume it would be the MI5 that would need to take a XD 
> driver.  If they can sell that, that's probably the one I would buy
>
> I don't see any DT Swiss model that's 135mm QR with an XD driver.  That 
> would be a decent fallback if White Industries didn't offer something.  
>
> Bill
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:15:29 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>>
>> Bill- 
>> There are many rear hubs spaces at 135 that can take an XD driver. White 
>> Industries t11 is 130 and reputedly has an XD driver. 
>> https://www.whiteind.com/t11 
>> Or any number of DTSwiss: (centerlock makes a decent rim braked hub) 
>> https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/ 
>>
>> Any reason those options won’t work? 
>> -J 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Bill Lindsay]

I looked on ebay and I see some QR rear hubs with XD drivers.  Here's a $60 
one:  EBAY Link 


They definitely exist.  

Bill


On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:53:24 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Justin
>
> White Industries doesn't have any model listed on their site that is 
> 135mm, QR, with an XD driver.  I called White and left a message asking 
> exactly that.  I assume it would be the MI5 that would need to take a XD 
> driver.  If they can sell that, that's probably the one I would buy
>
> I don't see any DT Swiss model that's 135mm QR with an XD driver.  That 
> would be a decent fallback if White Industries didn't offer something.  
>
> Bill
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:15:29 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>>
>> Bill- 
>> There are many rear hubs spaces at 135 that can take an XD driver. White 
>> Industries t11 is 130 and reputedly has an XD driver. 
>> https://www.whiteind.com/t11 
>> Or any number of DTSwiss: (centerlock makes a decent rim braked hub) 
>> https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/ 
>>
>> Any reason those options won’t work? 
>> -J 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Bill Lindsay]

Justin

White Industries doesn't have any model listed on their site that is 135mm, 
QR, with an XD driver.  I called White and left a message asking exactly 
that.  I assume it would be the MI5 that would need to take a XD driver.  
If they can sell that, that's probably the one I would buy

I don't see any DT Swiss model that's 135mm QR with an XD driver.  That 
would be a decent fallback if White Industries didn't offer something.  

Bill

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:15:29 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> Bill- 
> There are many rear hubs spaces at 135 that can take an XD driver. White 
> Industries t11 is 130 and reputedly has an XD driver. 
> https://www.whiteind.com/t11 
> Or any number of DTSwiss: (centerlock makes a decent rim braked hub) 
> https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/ 
>
> Any reason those options won’t work? 
> -J 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Bill. You are correct, no attack, in my case. I can and have for years 
ridden a freewheel. When I first discovered (after going barefoot for a few 
years, which woke up and heightened my proproceptive system and gave me 
ballance back despite always feeling like I spin like a whirling dervish on two 
axes in addition to the actual motion I experience), I rode less bikes and 
though I was delighted I could ride them, never came back better than I left. 
Because of Grant’s poetic waxings, I decided to buy my Hunqapillar, and WOW! I 
came back from rides better than I left. And that was with freewheel. Grin. 
Took too many years for me to take Phil’s suggestion that I try fixed. I 
haven’t looked back since.

It is common for people to map the puzzlements of brain injury that don’t make 
sense (and believe me, there are a lot of them!) to mental illness. It is the 
easy, lazy answer of the ignorant and arrogant. I’ve had doctors, among others, 
do this, despite my piles of brain scans and tests to the contrary. Mental 
illness is real, but it is a vastly different beast than brain injury. But yes, 
my brain has, among other things, axonal diffusion and damage to the brainstem 
area that controls balance.

Of course, “guy with vertigo rides bike on mountain trails to help heal brain” 
does bring sanity into question! Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Bill Lindsay]

Thanks Deacon.  I understand now that your brain is literally injured by 
the cumulative effects of numerous traumas, but figuratively bludgeoned.  
Your brain has had a rough go over the years, but there was no actual event 
with a bad guy bludgeoning your head with a shilelagh.  

I'll repeat that I believe that you sincerely, (medically) need to ride 
fixed in order to use a bicycle.  

Bill

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:20:57 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Oh, I forgot to answer Bill’s question on cause. Each concussion was 
> different, the first one coming at age 12 when the swing I was on broke at 
> its apex and I landed on my head. They knew to treat the broken neck, but 
> since my brain wasn’t showing through me skull, they didn’t look for much 
> in the way of brain injury back than. Subsequent concussions, all without 
> “any effects” according to all doctors. Two bike accidents, one with a car, 
> head on collision at 30mph combined, no direct impact to my head, the other 
> on training rollers too short for my touring bike’s wheelbase. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 

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[RBW] FS: 51cm Appaloosa full bike or frame and 50cm MIT Atlantis frame

[Ash]

Selling two Rivs to build two new Rivs.


For now Bay Area only, until I figure out shipping logistics.

MIT Atlantis 50cm Frame - $1,100

2017 green 51cm Joe Appaloosa - $1,525
Frame only - $925

- Rich built Velocity Atlas wheels with SP dynohub and VO Grand Cru rear hub
- Pasela tires (less than 200 miles)
- Sugino wide/low crankset
- XT 9 speed RD
- XT cassette 11-34t
- Microshift 9 speed thumb shifters
- Deore V-brakes
- Tektro brake levers
- Nitto Dirtdrop stem
- Sunlite Northroad Touring Handlebar
- Bikeroo saddle
- Origin 8 removable grips 
- Clem Smith Pedals

Will post pictures when the weather gets better (not enough space indoors 
to take good pictures)

Replacing the 50cm MIT Atlantis with the last available 46cm Appaloosa 
frame I bought today.  
MIT AHH will replace the green Appaloosa.  



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[RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Justin, Oakland]

There are safety tabs from PDW for metal fenders. 

-J

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Oh, I forgot to answer Bill’s question on cause. Each concussion was different, 
the first one coming at age 12 when the swing I was on broke at its apex and I 
landed on my head. They knew to treat the broken neck, but since my brain 
wasn’t showing through me skull, they didn’t look for much in the way of brain 
injury back than. Subsequent concussions, all without “any effects” according 
to all doctors. Two bike accidents, one with a car, head on collision at 30mph 
combined, no direct impact to my head, the other on training rollers too short 
for my touring bike’s wheelbase.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Justin, Oakland]

Bill-
There are many rear hubs spaces at 135 that can take an XD driver. White 
Industries t11 is 130 and reputedly has an XD driver. 
https://www.whiteind.com/t11
Or any number of DTSwiss: (centerlock makes a decent rim braked hub)
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/

Any reason those options won’t work?
-J

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[RBW] How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[REC (Roberta)]

I've seen a lot of posts about fenders recently, and I have lots of 
questions about them.  I've never known about fenders until about two years 
ago when I learned about Rivendell, joined this board, and bought my 
SKS-fendered Joe A., my first bike with fenders.  I don't ride in the rain, 
but I have to admit that I like the idea of nothing wet, dry, or 
dusty spraying up on me is appealing.  Or, does one not really need them if 
only riding in dry weather?

Color--how do you choose a color?  I thought black would be inconspicuous, 
but I like the look of the silver fenders.  I saw a post the other day 
where the fenders matched the bike.  Very nice!  Or, is no fenders better?

Material--I understand that plastic fenders are safer than other materials 
because you can install a safety tab.  The other fender materials don't 
have this option, as I understand, and one might go over the handlebars in 
case of foreign object between tire and fender. 

Which bike/types of bikes do you decide to fender or not?  Riding 
conditions?  Does length of ride or speed have any bearing?  Is it just 
esthetics? 

What other options you take into consideration? 

I'm asking this as a general question, although I have a Champaign-colored 
step thru that I think would look great with hammered Honjo fenders--to me 
and to thieves!  For now, it will remain a non-fendered bike.

Roberta

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[RBW] Re: Roadini handlebar ideas

[Ash]

This configuration is actually super practical!

Drop bars offer aggressive (corners), more aggressive (hoods) and super 
aggressive (drops) riding positions.  When I want to provide some relief to 
back and shoulders I had nowhere to go.

This solution gives you best of both worlds!  The corners when you want to 
push harder and the regular grip area when you want to relax, be able to 
look around and cruise.


On Saturday, 26 January 2019 02:09:36 UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Here's my solution to a similar issue with my new Breezer Doppler. I 
> didn't like the drops on it so I nabbed this kinda-like-a-Jones-Bend bar 
> from Sycip, the JJ Bar. You'll still have to get a 31.8 stem, but it uses 
> road levers. I'm using brifters, bar-ends will fit but might be kind of an 
> awkward angle. 
>
> As soon as I kick this death flu I'll get 'em wrapped and go for a ride 
> for a stem reach report. I had already swapped a shorter one in for the 
> drops, so may need to put the stock one back on. 
>
> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 1:53:51 PM UTC-8, tc wrote: 
> > Thanks for the suggestions so far!   
> > 
> > I have much experience wth Jones loops, having had them in 2 different 
> bikes (a hardtail Specialized and a Clem). Love that bar, but can’t yet get 
> my head around that bar on a Roadini. But the Jones Bend bar might look 
> better -  it does come in silver - and I’d need a new 31.8 stem. 
> > 
> > Personally I’m not liking the look of a super high stem and drops. 
>  “Life’s too short to own an ugly boat - er, bike” :-) 
> > 
> > Haven’t looked at cowchippers yet. I had a cowbell on my Vaya years ago. 
> I did like the shallowness of the cowbell drops. 
> > 
> > Will look at Soma highway 1, too. 
> > 
> > Keep them ideas comin’. 
> > 
> > Continuing to stretch and wishing for more and longer rides... 
> > 
> > Tom 
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Great question, Bill. I’ve had multiple concussions since I was 12. There is a 
snowball effect to concussions, both in liklihood of additional concussions and 
in the damage subsequent, lesser concussions can cause. Like the infrastructure 
of a city in a sever earthquake that gets hidden micro fractures. It may appear 
to have weathered the quake well, but subsequent, lesser aftershocks may bring 
down more buildings and bridges than the initial quake.

There is no “seems” or “think” about fixed being better. I know. Things that 
happen on various rides, such as car honking and other brain challenges, effect 
me less riding fixed gear, often allowing me to continue on rides that with a 
freewheel required I turn around. More on the oddities of brain energy 
budgeting here, if interested. https://mindyourheadcoop.org/daily-brain-budget

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Bill Lindsay]

Thanks for the reply Adam, but I was asking a different question.  I'll ask 
it again:

Is there a rear hub with: 135mm OLD spacing + a Quick Release axle + 
non-disc brakes + SRAM XD driver ?

If that rear hub exists, then one could run a 10-50 cassette on an 
Atlantis.  If no such hub exists, then you are stuck with an 11-50.  

Bill

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 10:06:01 PM UTC-8, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> hi bill, sunrace makes the 11-50 twelve speed cassette that fits on a 
> standard 10/11s sram/shimano freehub body. this is what i have. you can 
> find the mini-group on ebay for just under $300 for the shifter, derailer, 
> chain, & sunrace cassette package. i try not to buy new bicycle components 
> from ebay, but i caved for this deal. this is the cheapest i could find it: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sram-GX-Eagle-Group-SunRace-11-50-Cassette-12-Speed-Kit-Trigger-Derailleur-Chain/291089084796?hash=item43c642f17c:g:Uo8AAOSwOhda82Bq:rk:3:pf:0
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 8:51:19 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Adam Leibow indicates he will run GX Eagle on his Clem 
>>
>> In order to run the 10-50 cassette you need the XD driver on the rear 
>> hub. Is that driver available on a 135mm we rear hub?  Is it available on a 
>> 135mm QR non-disc rear hub?  Or will you be running a Shimano compatible 
>> 11-50 eagle cassette?   
>>
>> 礪 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay 
>> El Cerrito Ca
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Bill Lindsay]

Deacon Patrick

Over the last several years you've universally used a single descriptor for 
your brain: 'bludgeoned'.  In all those years I've never picked up what 
that actually means.  I know what the word means.  "to bludgeon" means to 
beat with a blunt weapon.  

So, is your brain literally bludgeoned?  Were you beaten with a blunt 
object by somebody or some group of people?  Is your brain equivalently 
injured, but not by actual bludgeoning?  Like, were you in a car crash?  A 
bike crash?  Are you a former boxer or football player whose brain became 
bludgeoned in an athletic arena?  I your brain figuratively 'bludgeoned' by 
other traumas, like drugs, or other toxins?

I believe you that you have special constraints related to your brain that 
make you actually need, or at least feel like you need to ride fixed.  

What's the context of the bludgeoning?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 11:37:45 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Looking for ideas for making Boots a fixed gear Allways Adventure Beastie 
> (I’m currently leaning toward option 1).
>
> *Goal*: Three fixed gears that can be simply shifted on the road/trail to 
> cover all terrains. Gears needed:
> *High*: 60-70” for long road descents. Yes, I could go with a lower gear 
> freewheel, but fixed is far preferred for me.
> *Main*: 50” for most terrain, at least round these parts.
> *Low*: 40-43” for steeper trails, snow, mud, mush, et al.
>
> To head off the inevitable “why fixed, that’s nuts!” responses: I’m set on 
> fixed. Why? I’ve constant neurological vertigo as part of my bludgeoned 
> brain, and fixed gear means more feedback for proprioception to work and 
> helps me recover as I ride 2-4 times as much as freewheel riding on the 
> same bike. Plus, I love the way it rides, so even if my brain heals to the 
> point this is no longer the case, I may well stay fixed because I love it.
>
> Options I see:
> 1. White Ind. ENO Eccentric Hub on stock frame. I’ve watched videos of 
> gear tensioning and it looks simple enough with practice, even with a 
> loaded bike. Challenge: Fixed side requires WI proprietary cog, not dingle 
> option. I see two ways to address this. A. shift by removing the lock ring 
> and swapping cogs, having a matching chainring for each of the three gears 
> to keep the total number of teeth identical. B. Single cog/dingle cog 
> “locked” onto the freewheel side, same triple chain ring setup. Either way, 
> I’d go for roughly a 4t delta in the cogs, with the same for the chainrings.
>
> Advantages: keeps Boots with the option of using freewheel in the future, 
> lower cost (presuming it works and the ENO hub holds for fixed gear 
> bikepacking). WI says it isn’t designed for fixed gear, let alone 
> bikepacking, but they know it can work on a steel frame (no go on aluminum 
> for lack of grip).
>
> Disadvantages: May not hold under high torque load. Worst case scenario is 
> I have to re tension the chain, WI says. They say the hub is rock solid. If 
> this happens too often, I’d need to go to option two.
>
> 2. Replace the dropouts to be horizontal. Configure similarly to my 
> current Quickbeam and Hunqabeam.
>
> Advantages: known, solid, reliable, purpose built for fixed gear. Tested 
> for bikepacking on all terrains and works great.
>
> Disadvantages: cost, including a repaint is $800-1,000.
> ~~~
>
> Anything I’ve not thought of? Anything to consider? Experience abusing an 
> ENO eccentric hub similarly? Best practices for a fixed cog locking on a 
> freewheel hub? Thanks!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Metin Uz]

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 1:05:17 PM UTC-8, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> My older WI ENO hub can accept a normal thread on fixed cog. Maybe hunt 
> eBay for one of those. 


Yes indeed. Here is one 
I
 
have for sale on local CL.

[image: 00i0i_52Mnr2LyMkd_1200x900.jpg]

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Eric Daume]

My older WI ENO hub can accept a normal thread on fixed cog. Maybe hunt
eBay for one of those.

Or get some other frame that already allows big tires + fixed gear (Jones,
Surly Karate Monkey, Soma Juice, Kona Unit, etc etc etc)

Eric

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Ian. Great minds think alike, though so do mediocre ones. Grin.
> Explored and not a viable option. I guess there aren’t enough brilliantly
> stupid people (aka fixed gear hillybikers). Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Ian. Great minds think alike, though so do mediocre ones. Grin. 
Explored and not a viable option. I guess there aren’t enough brilliantly 
stupid people (aka fixed gear hillybikers). Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Bars Make Brilliant AllWays Adventure Bars

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Impressive paint job on those bullmoose bars!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

[Ian A]

I don't suppose the track ends could be a one-off factory special at source? Is 
it something Riv could request from their builders? Stranger things happen at 
sea, as they say.

IanA Alberta Canada

 

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[Craig Montgomery]

What Univega touring bike Bill? Can you post photos? 

Craig in Tucson

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:23:27 AM UTC-7, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> I’ve ridden with fenders off and on going way back.  I’ve only used 
> plastic fenders and never paid too much attention to the cosmetics of it 
> all - just tried to get them on and running without tire rub.  Naturally, 
> seeing all the beautiful pictures of bikes that show up here with nice 
> metal fenders, or wood, I’ve wondered what it would be like to get some 
> nice aluminum fenders installed instead of the SKS I have on my Atlantis. 
>  Not only might they look nice but I’ve read they don’t rattle as much so 
> are quieter than plastic fenders. 
>
> A few weeks ago, I bought an old Univega touring bike that had been 
> customized. What caught my attention was the full dynamo hub lighting 
> system.  I bought the bike for no other reason than to get the lighting 
> system for my Atlantis.  Although the bike was old and the build overall 
> did not look too recent, the lighting system seemed to be almost unused and 
> I got the whole bike for less than what I could have built up my own new 
> lighting system. 
>
> So back to fenders.  In addition to the lights, this bike had Honjo 
> fenders so here was my chance to see what some nice aluminum fenders are 
> all about.  Unfortunately, the fenders are rather narrow so there was no 
> way I could install them on my Atlantis with the 50mm tires I’m running.  I 
> chose instead to install them on my old Trek 720 mostly just to see what 
> they were all about.  I had read that metal fenders can be a challenge to 
> install requiring patience.  I learned this is true.  What, I think, I also 
> discovered is that these fenders wrap so much of the tire that removing and 
> installing the rear wheel with the horizontal dropouts is a bit of a 
> challenge and a nice fender line pretty much impossible (not that that was 
> ever very important to me).  I have tentatively decided these things are 
> made for bikes with vertical dropouts. 
>
> What I have not been able to confirm is that metal fenders are quiet or 
> even quieter than plastic fenders.  On my first ride, the front fender 
> rattled on any but the smoothest pavement.  I’ve traced that to the stay 
> mounting bracket on the fender and I think I can solve that rattle.  BUT, 
> the rear fender, while it does not rattle, it seems to function as an echo 
> chamber or whisper dome that amplifies all the noise of the drivetrain!  I 
> have trouble attributing this annoying feature to my lack of installation 
> skills.  After only one ride (maybe I need to be more patient), I’m kinda 
> thinking these things may not be for me.  Has anyone else encountered this? 
>  What am I missing about these things?  If I can’t figure that out I may be 
> trying to find a new home for these and probably drop thoughts of 
> converting to metal on the Atlantis. 
>
>
> Ha, the cockpit shown here also came from the Univega.

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[RBW] Fixed Gear Boots Puzzlement

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Looking for ideas for making Boots a fixed gear Allways Adventure Beastie (I’m 
currently leaning toward option 1).

Goal: Three fixed gears that can be simply shifted on the road/trail to cover 
all terrains. Gears needed:
High: 60-70” for long road descents. Yes, I could go with a lower gear 
freewheel, but fixed is far preferred for me.
Main: 50” for most terrain, at least round these parts.
Low: 40-43” for steeper trails, snow, mud, mush, et al.

To head off the inevitable “why fixed, that’s nuts!” responses: I’m set on 
fixed. Why? I’ve constant neurological vertigo as part of my bludgeoned brain, 
and fixed gear means more feedback for proprioception to work and helps me 
recover as I ride 2-4 times as much as freewheel riding on the same bike. Plus, 
I love the way it rides, so even if my brain heals to the point this is no 
longer the case, I may well stay fixed because I love it.

Options I see:
1. White Ind. ENO Eccentric Hub on stock frame. I’ve watched videos of gear 
tensioning and it looks simple enough with practice, even with a loaded bike. 
Challenge: Fixed side requires WI proprietary cog, not dingle option. I see two 
ways to address this. A. shift by removing the lock ring and swapping cogs, 
having a matching chainring for each of the three gears to keep the total 
number of teeth identical. B. Single cog/dingle cog “locked” onto the freewheel 
side, same triple chain ring setup. Either way, I’d go for roughly a 4t delta 
in the cogs, with the same for the chainrings.

Advantages: keeps Boots with the option of using freewheel in the future, lower 
cost (presuming it works and the ENO hub holds for fixed gear bikepacking). WI 
says it isn’t designed for fixed gear, let alone bikepacking, but they know it 
can work on a steel frame (no go on aluminum for lack of grip).

Disadvantages: May not hold under high torque load. Worst case scenario is I 
have to re tension the chain, WI says. They say the hub is rock solid. If this 
happens too often, I’d need to go to option two.

2. Replace the dropouts to be horizontal. Configure similarly to my current 
Quickbeam and Hunqabeam.

Advantages: known, solid, reliable, purpose built for fixed gear. Tested for 
bikepacking on all terrains and works great.

Disadvantages: cost, including a repaint is $800-1,000.
~~~

Anything I’ve not thought of? Anything to consider? Experience abusing an ENO 
eccentric hub similarly? Best practices for a fixed cog locking on a freewheel 
hub? Thanks!

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.CatholicHalos.org
www.DeaconPatrick.org

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Jeremy Till]

Not to derail (hah!) this thread, but I had also briefly considered an MIT 
Atlantis as something to work towards as a replacement for my current 
CleMTB. I was at Riv HQ a couple of weekends ago and got a chance to look 
more closely at the demo bike that's built up pretty closely to my Clem, as 
pictured here: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtFHpw8jt5s/

The Atlantis is definitely a dirt-capable allrounder and I wouldn't 
hesitate to take if off-roading. However, comparing it to my Clem (which 
uses a Hunqapillar fork, and I assume has similar clearance to the Hunqs, 
at least the later ones), the Atlantis doesn't have quite as much tire 
clearance for big knobbies or mud, if either of those things are important 
to your off-roading experience. The demo pictured above has 2.2 Continental 
Race Kings on relatively narrow rims (Atlases, if I remember correctly), 
and they are close to the seat stays and fork crown. My Clem takes 2.2's on 
wider rims (Cliffhangers) with a lot more clearance. The Hunqapillar fork 
crown is definitely wider than the Atlantis one, and at least on my 
first-gen Clem with the fixed-angle seat lug, the stays are wider set. I 
love my Clem setup and definitely wouldn't want to go any narrower, either 
on the rim or the tire, so I think I'll be sticking with it for now as my 
MTB.  

No comment on the 12 speed stuff specifically but I will note that any 
chainline issues are made less severe by long chainstays. I run a mountain 
double (36/22) setup on my Clem with no front derailleur and a wide bottom 
bracket to help the chain clear the tire in the granny gear. That puts the 
bigger ring pretty far out and I expect it would be problematic, especially 
in the big x big combinations, on a bike with shorter chainstays. As it is 
I have no problems with derailment, even using a ramped and pinned 
chainring (i.e. not narrow-wide or even SS specific) while bouncing around 
off road. 

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:20:21 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Bill, Colin, Adam - all great info!  Thank you. I was also thinking of 
> raiding my Clem drivetrain, if I go forward with an Atlantipillar ... but 
> this 12-spd Gx setup is so intriguing, and not as expensive as I thought it 
> was. 
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[tc]

Good to know, Adam. Makes sense. And you experienced this groupset already and 
had no issues. 

I noticed the article Colin referenced recommended swapping out the GX 
derailleur for the X01. If you didn’t have issues then likely not worth it, 
unless a sig bunch of folks noticed alignment probs too early on. 

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Drw]

yeah that makes sense. maybe ill try putting an index shifter on. 

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[George Schick]

Correction to my previous:  If the chain stay is threaded, you'd need to 
drill it out so you can use a bolt with the self locking nut on the end. 
 Otherwise, the spring could not be compressed.  Not sure what I was 
thinking about.

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 12:19:34 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>
> There are two ways you and "clean up" the fender line on the rear of that 
> Trek, if you wish:  One way is get a small plastic spacer from the hardware 
> store (they come in different diameters and lengths) and install it between 
> the fender and the chain stay, using a longer bolt.  This will probably 
> necessitate letting the air out of the rear tire to remove the wheel, which 
> can be a pain.  But that's the way mine are and I've learned to live with 
> it.  Or you can use a longer bolt and install a spring between the fender 
> and the chain stay.  The springs, too, are available in different sizes 
> from the hardware.  That way, when you want to remove the rear wheel you 
> can just push it forward, compressing the spring, in order to get enough 
> clearance.  If the chain stay is not threaded, but just drilled, be sure to 
> install a self locking nut on the end of the bolt to keep it from loosening.
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 10:23:27 AM UTC-6, Bill Schairer wrote:
>>
>> I’ve ridden with fenders off and on going way back.  I’ve only used 
>> plastic fenders and never paid too much attention to the cosmetics of it 
>> all - just tried to get them on and running without tire rub.  Naturally, 
>> seeing all the beautiful pictures of bikes that show up here with nice 
>> metal fenders, or wood, I’ve wondered what it would be like to get some 
>> nice aluminum fenders installed instead of the SKS I have on my Atlantis. 
>>  Not only might they look nice but I’ve read they don’t rattle as much so 
>> are quieter than plastic fenders. 
>>
>> A few weeks ago, I bought an old Univega touring bike that had been 
>> customized. What caught my attention was the full dynamo hub lighting 
>> system.  I bought the bike for no other reason than to get the lighting 
>> system for my Atlantis.  Although the bike was old and the build overall 
>> did not look too recent, the lighting system seemed to be almost unused and 
>> I got the whole bike for less than what I could have built up my own new 
>> lighting system. 
>>
>> So back to fenders.  In addition to the lights, this bike had Honjo 
>> fenders so here was my chance to see what some nice aluminum fenders are 
>> all about.  Unfortunately, the fenders are rather narrow so there was no 
>> way I could install them on my Atlantis with the 50mm tires I’m running.  I 
>> chose instead to install them on my old Trek 720 mostly just to see what 
>> they were all about.  I had read that metal fenders can be a challenge to 
>> install requiring patience.  I learned this is true.  What, I think, I also 
>> discovered is that these fenders wrap so much of the tire that removing and 
>> installing the rear wheel with the horizontal dropouts is a bit of a 
>> challenge and a nice fender line pretty much impossible (not that that was 
>> ever very important to me).  I have tentatively decided these things are 
>> made for bikes with vertical dropouts. 
>>
>> What I have not been able to confirm is that metal fenders are quiet or 
>> even quieter than plastic fenders.  On my first ride, the front fender 
>> rattled on any but the smoothest pavement.  I’ve traced that to the stay 
>> mounting bracket on the fender and I think I can solve that rattle.  BUT, 
>> the rear fender, while it does not rattle, it seems to function as an echo 
>> chamber or whisper dome that amplifies all the noise of the drivetrain!  I 
>> have trouble attributing this annoying feature to my lack of installation 
>> skills.  After only one ride (maybe I need to be more patient), I’m kinda 
>> thinking these things may not be for me.  Has anyone else encountered this? 
>>  What am I missing about these things?  If I can’t figure that out I may be 
>> trying to find a new home for these and probably drop thoughts of 
>> converting to metal on the Atlantis. 
>>
>>
>> Ha, the cockpit shown here also came from the Univega.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

[Brian Campbell]

Ha! Thanks! I still mean to get out your way one day !

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 1:31:40 PM UTC-5, kobe wrote:
>
> Now all you need is a 60 degree day like we had a few weekends ago. Good 
> to see you have been busy over the winter and the changes to your Homer 
> look great, and those lugs still amaze me.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Hanford Custom (in the Riv / Compass tradition)

[Brian Campbell]

+1 on this. 


On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 1:35:34 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Glad everything arrived in order! It's a wonderful bike and I hope you 
> enjoy it. 
>
> I also HIGHLY recommend Simon. Amazing craftsman and really great guy. If 
> any of you are in the Philadelphia metro area, he also does repairs and 
> alterations to existing frames. 
>
> Eric
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:18:50 AM UTC-5, Reid Echols wrote:
>>
>> Just a quick note to say that Eric was a model seller, great to work with 
>> and meticulous in his packing of the frame. Simon at Hanford was also very 
>> helpful, identifying the tubing and dropouts for me, along with a couple 
>> more odds and ends. 
>>
>> This is a real beauty of a frame; can't wait to get it built up. I'll try 
>> to post some photos when it's all ready to go. 
>>
>> Reid in Austin 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:32:50 PM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> And...SOLD.
>>>
>>> I have no idea how much custom bikes go for, so it looks like I 
>>> underpriced it a bit. But no worries. I'm just glad it's going to a good 
>>> home!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:04:57 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:

 Sale pending...

 Thanks for all the interest.

 On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:00:13 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell 
 wrote:
>
> I am local and thankfully for my checking account, its too big. Simon 
> just did some mods on my A. Homer Hilsen and I can vouch for the quality 
> of 
> his work and paint. Truly is a steal. Good luck with sale!
>
> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:49:30 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>>
>> WOW. Very nice. A fair price and then some!
>>
>> KJ
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 5:22:29 PM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi guys-
>>>
>>>
>>> So I don’t know if there is any interest in this bike. But if so, I 
>>> figured this (and iBob) would be the forum for it.
>>>
>>>
>>> Up for sale is my Hanford all-rounder. Hanfords are custom bikes 
>>> built by Simon Firth here in Philadelphia. Simon used to be the main 
>>> frame 
>>> builder at Bilenky until setting out on his own and starting Firth and 
>>> Wilson Transport Cycles and building his own bikes under the Hanford 
>>> badge.
>>>
>>>
>>> Simon built me this bike a year ago to serve as an all-rounder in 
>>> the Rivendell / Compass-ish tradition. It has higher handlebars and 
>>> longish 
>>> chainstays like a Rivendell with low trail and lighter (though still 
>>> oversized) tubing. It was primarily built with commuting in mind, 
>>> though 
>>> I’ve also used it for a lot of gravel riding in and around the city. 
>>> The 
>>> low bottom bracket makes it really stable and easily dismountable at 
>>> stop 
>>> lights. And the low-trail fork is even wired for a SON SL 
>>> ‘connector-less’ 
>>> hub (which I can also sell to a buyer). Its geometry was designed 
>>> around 
>>> 40mm tires, though it was shod with Snoqualmie Passes (44mm) for its 
>>> entire 
>>> life. Here are the specs:
>>>
>>>
>>> Seat tube (c-c): 620mm
>>>
>>> Seat tube angle: 72 degrees
>>>
>>> Effective top tube: 590mm
>>>
>>> Top tube angle: 1.5 degrees
>>>
>>> Head tube angle: 72.5 degrees
>>>
>>> Chainstay length: 455mm
>>>
>>> Bottom bracket drop: 88mm
>>>
>>> Standover (with 40mm tires): 881mm
>>>
>>>
>>> (For Riv reference, I also ride a 62cm SimpleOne, which is what this 
>>> sizing was based one. So if that bike fits you, this one should too)
>>>
>>>
>>> It’s a fantastic bike, especially with a front rack (it used to have 
>>> a Nitto Mark’s Rack on it). It has lovely fillet brazes, rides super 
>>> smooth, and is absolutely perfect for commuting or Riv-ish rides. It 
>>> was 
>>> built up with very Rivish-parts : Deore deraillers, friction shifters, 
>>> Sugino triple crank, etc. So it should fit your bin parts perfectly. 
>>> The 
>>> only real issues I can find are: (1) that the water bottle mounts were 
>>> set 
>>> a bit too far down the down tube, so when using two water bottle cages, 
>>> I 
>>> need to use one of those Problem-solvers adapter thingys; and (2) the 
>>> paint 
>>> was still a little tacky when the front derailleur was installed and 
>>> there 
>>> are indentations in the paint. The frame still includes installed 
>>> bottom 
>>> bracket and VO threadless headset. I also have a 70mm stem I can throw 
>>> in. 
>>> Here are some images:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157678451374428
>>>
>>>
>>> Why am I selling it, you may ask? Well, I’m moving to the UK in the 
>>> summer and can only 

[RBW] Re: FS: Hanford Custom (in the Riv / Compass tradition)

[Eric Karnes]

Glad everything arrived in order! It's a wonderful bike and I hope you 
enjoy it. 

I also HIGHLY recommend Simon. Amazing craftsman and really great guy. If 
any of you are in the Philadelphia metro area, he also does repairs and 
alterations to existing frames. 

Eric

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:18:50 AM UTC-5, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> Just a quick note to say that Eric was a model seller, great to work with 
> and meticulous in his packing of the frame. Simon at Hanford was also very 
> helpful, identifying the tubing and dropouts for me, along with a couple 
> more odds and ends. 
>
> This is a real beauty of a frame; can't wait to get it built up. I'll try 
> to post some photos when it's all ready to go. 
>
> Reid in Austin 
>
> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:32:50 PM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> And...SOLD.
>>
>> I have no idea how much custom bikes go for, so it looks like I 
>> underpriced it a bit. But no worries. I'm just glad it's going to a good 
>> home!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:04:57 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Sale pending...
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the interest.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:00:13 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell 
>>> wrote:

 I am local and thankfully for my checking account, its too big. Simon 
 just did some mods on my A. Homer Hilsen and I can vouch for the quality 
 of 
 his work and paint. Truly is a steal. Good luck with sale!

 On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:49:30 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
> WOW. Very nice. A fair price and then some!
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 5:22:29 PM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Hi guys-
>>
>>
>> So I don’t know if there is any interest in this bike. But if so, I 
>> figured this (and iBob) would be the forum for it.
>>
>>
>> Up for sale is my Hanford all-rounder. Hanfords are custom bikes 
>> built by Simon Firth here in Philadelphia. Simon used to be the main 
>> frame 
>> builder at Bilenky until setting out on his own and starting Firth and 
>> Wilson Transport Cycles and building his own bikes under the Hanford 
>> badge.
>>
>>
>> Simon built me this bike a year ago to serve as an all-rounder in the 
>> Rivendell / Compass-ish tradition. It has higher handlebars and longish 
>> chainstays like a Rivendell with low trail and lighter (though still 
>> oversized) tubing. It was primarily built with commuting in mind, though 
>> I’ve also used it for a lot of gravel riding in and around the city. The 
>> low bottom bracket makes it really stable and easily dismountable at 
>> stop 
>> lights. And the low-trail fork is even wired for a SON SL 
>> ‘connector-less’ 
>> hub (which I can also sell to a buyer). Its geometry was designed around 
>> 40mm tires, though it was shod with Snoqualmie Passes (44mm) for its 
>> entire 
>> life. Here are the specs:
>>
>>
>> Seat tube (c-c): 620mm
>>
>> Seat tube angle: 72 degrees
>>
>> Effective top tube: 590mm
>>
>> Top tube angle: 1.5 degrees
>>
>> Head tube angle: 72.5 degrees
>>
>> Chainstay length: 455mm
>>
>> Bottom bracket drop: 88mm
>>
>> Standover (with 40mm tires): 881mm
>>
>>
>> (For Riv reference, I also ride a 62cm SimpleOne, which is what this 
>> sizing was based one. So if that bike fits you, this one should too)
>>
>>
>> It’s a fantastic bike, especially with a front rack (it used to have 
>> a Nitto Mark’s Rack on it). It has lovely fillet brazes, rides super 
>> smooth, and is absolutely perfect for commuting or Riv-ish rides. It was 
>> built up with very Rivish-parts : Deore deraillers, friction shifters, 
>> Sugino triple crank, etc. So it should fit your bin parts perfectly. The 
>> only real issues I can find are: (1) that the water bottle mounts were 
>> set 
>> a bit too far down the down tube, so when using two water bottle cages, 
>> I 
>> need to use one of those Problem-solvers adapter thingys; and (2) the 
>> paint 
>> was still a little tacky when the front derailleur was installed and 
>> there 
>> are indentations in the paint. The frame still includes installed bottom 
>> bracket and VO threadless headset. I also have a 70mm stem I can throw 
>> in. 
>> Here are some images:
>>
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157678451374428
>>
>>
>> Why am I selling it, you may ask? Well, I’m moving to the UK in the 
>> summer and can only take what I can carry on the plane. So this, along 
>> with 
>> my other bikes (and possessions) need to go. I’ve stripped it and given 
>> a 
>> bunch of the parts to friends for their various builds. Though I still 
>> have 
>> some of the other parts for sale.

[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

['kobe' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Now all you need is a 60 degree day like we had a few weekends ago. Good to 
see you have been busy over the winter and the changes to your Homer look 
great, and those lugs still amaze me.

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Justin, Oakland]

I have the 11-50 12 so Sunrace cassette sitting unused. I doubt I’m going to 
use it so if anyone wants to buy...

-J

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Bars Make Brilliant AllWays Adventure Bars

[jamin orrall]

Just got a set of these handlebars second hand, they are beautiful.  Very 
excited to try them!  I could see these becoming pretty valuable if riv 
decides to stop making them. 

On Saturday, February 9, 2019 at 2:19:00 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> In which I get a perfect day to test out my new bullmoose bars, with brisk 
> temps, steady breezes around 20mph and sneezes up to 40mph, while coming 
> and going, climbing and descending, and singletrack with bounce and jounce. 
> Delightful!
>
> https://snap.as/deaconpatrick/bullmoose-bars-initial-impressions
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[George Schick]

There are two ways you and "clean up" the fender line on the rear of that 
Trek, if you wish:  One way is get a small plastic spacer from the hardware 
store (they come in different diameters and lengths) and install it between 
the fender and the chain stay, using a longer bolt.  This will probably 
necessitate letting the air out of the rear tire to remove the wheel, which 
can be a pain.  But that's the way mine are and I've learned to live with 
it.  Or you can use a longer bolt and install a spring between the fender 
and the chain stay.  The springs, too, are available in different sizes 
from the hardware.  That way, when you want to remove the rear wheel you 
can just push it forward, compressing the spring, in order to get enough 
clearance.  If the chain stay is not threaded, but just drilled, be sure to 
install a self locking nut on the end of the bolt to keep it from loosening.


On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 10:23:27 AM UTC-6, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> I’ve ridden with fenders off and on going way back.  I’ve only used 
> plastic fenders and never paid too much attention to the cosmetics of it 
> all - just tried to get them on and running without tire rub.  Naturally, 
> seeing all the beautiful pictures of bikes that show up here with nice 
> metal fenders, or wood, I’ve wondered what it would be like to get some 
> nice aluminum fenders installed instead of the SKS I have on my Atlantis. 
>  Not only might they look nice but I’ve read they don’t rattle as much so 
> are quieter than plastic fenders. 
>
> A few weeks ago, I bought an old Univega touring bike that had been 
> customized. What caught my attention was the full dynamo hub lighting 
> system.  I bought the bike for no other reason than to get the lighting 
> system for my Atlantis.  Although the bike was old and the build overall 
> did not look too recent, the lighting system seemed to be almost unused and 
> I got the whole bike for less than what I could have built up my own new 
> lighting system. 
>
> So back to fenders.  In addition to the lights, this bike had Honjo 
> fenders so here was my chance to see what some nice aluminum fenders are 
> all about.  Unfortunately, the fenders are rather narrow so there was no 
> way I could install them on my Atlantis with the 50mm tires I’m running.  I 
> chose instead to install them on my old Trek 720 mostly just to see what 
> they were all about.  I had read that metal fenders can be a challenge to 
> install requiring patience.  I learned this is true.  What, I think, I also 
> discovered is that these fenders wrap so much of the tire that removing and 
> installing the rear wheel with the horizontal dropouts is a bit of a 
> challenge and a nice fender line pretty much impossible (not that that was 
> ever very important to me).  I have tentatively decided these things are 
> made for bikes with vertical dropouts. 
>
> What I have not been able to confirm is that metal fenders are quiet or 
> even quieter than plastic fenders.  On my first ride, the front fender 
> rattled on any but the smoothest pavement.  I’ve traced that to the stay 
> mounting bracket on the fender and I think I can solve that rattle.  BUT, 
> the rear fender, while it does not rattle, it seems to function as an echo 
> chamber or whisper dome that amplifies all the noise of the drivetrain!  I 
> have trouble attributing this annoying feature to my lack of installation 
> skills.  After only one ride (maybe I need to be more patient), I’m kinda 
> thinking these things may not be for me.  Has anyone else encountered this? 
>  What am I missing about these things?  If I can’t figure that out I may be 
> trying to find a new home for these and probably drop thoughts of 
> converting to metal on the Atlantis. 
>
>
> Ha, the cockpit shown here also came from the Univega.

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Adam Leibow]

more than likely it's the *friction* silver shifter mated to the 10s setup. 
some people have noted success with 10speed friction, but mostly what i 
hear is that because the cable pull is so minute between gears on the 10s 
and 11s cassettes, friction shifting is very sensitive and ghost shifting 
is much more pronounced. 

i'm just going to use the GX eagle 12s indexed trigger shifter that came 
with the group, as is surely what's done on the atlantis in the OP. 
Microshift also makes a 12s indexed compatible bar end shifter. 

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:38:06 AM UTC-8, Drw wrote:
>
> I'd be interested to hear how that sunrace sram setup works. I have 1x10 
> on my bubbe step through. sunrace big cassette, IRD mjolnir crank, silver 
> friction on thumb shifter mount, xt derailler with wolftooth. I get tons of 
> ghost shifting/slipping around on the three smallest gears and don't know 
> which component is the culprit. 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: riv sugnio xd2, triple or double

[jamin orrall]

crank found! thanks.

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 1:59:24 PM UTC-6, jamin orrall wrote:
>
> looking for a sugino xd2 
> 46x36x24 or 40x26 wide low 
> looking for 170 length but i'm open to 175.
>
> thanks!!!
> Jamin
>

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[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks all!

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Re: [RBW] Kickstand tire rub

[Dave Redmon]

Thanks for that info!

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019, 9:02 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne  Hi Dave,
> Somewhere along the back side of the black foot there’s a lock/flap with a
> groove; you just need to unsnap and then slide up or down along the notches
> in the alloy part to your desired length then fold/snap the locking part
> back in place.
>
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[RBW] Re: Fenders

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

In my experience metal fenders are definitely not quieter than plastic, and 
take some extra tinkering to achieve a similar noise level.  Leather 
washers help, as does an extra attachment point over the front if it 
extends far forward.  The noise is also different in nature: metal rings 
while plastic makes more of a clacking sound.  The ringing is more invasive 
to my ears.  I haven't found that the Honjos wrap more than a couple inches 
more of the rear wheel than my SKS fenders do.  For both, if I want a nice 
tight fender line I need to deflate the tire to remove or replace the 
wheel.  After doing that a couple times I decided that I could aim for nice 
but not tight :-D  All my plastic fenders are 10 to 30 years old, and none 
of them are as even or nice as the metal fenders, but from 10' away and 
moving 10+ mph they look FINE.  I would be curious to know if anyone has 
mounted plastic fenders using the mounting system from the Honjos.  That 
could possibly achieve the more finished look with the quieter material.

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[RBW] Re: Sugino 40x26 wide low double?

[Philip Williamson]

He’s my neighbor, too! 
He’s helped me out with some bike repairs over the last few years, and 
designing a bike with him has been a lot of fun. He’s very thoughtful and 
patient, and likes the unique challenges of making an unusual bike.

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[Sean B.]

A little leather under each mounting bracket will help silence the 
rattling. 

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 10:23:27 AM UTC-6, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> I’ve ridden with fenders off and on going way back.  I’ve only used 
> plastic fenders and never paid too much attention to the cosmetics of it 
> all - just tried to get them on and running without tire rub.  Naturally, 
> seeing all the beautiful pictures of bikes that show up here with nice 
> metal fenders, or wood, I’ve wondered what it would be like to get some 
> nice aluminum fenders installed instead of the SKS I have on my Atlantis. 
>  Not only might they look nice but I’ve read they don’t rattle as much so 
> are quieter than plastic fenders. 
>
> A few weeks ago, I bought an old Univega touring bike that had been 
> customized. What caught my attention was the full dynamo hub lighting 
> system.  I bought the bike for no other reason than to get the lighting 
> system for my Atlantis.  Although the bike was old and the build overall 
> did not look too recent, the lighting system seemed to be almost unused and 
> I got the whole bike for less than what I could have built up my own new 
> lighting system. 
>
> So back to fenders.  In addition to the lights, this bike had Honjo 
> fenders so here was my chance to see what some nice aluminum fenders are 
> all about.  Unfortunately, the fenders are rather narrow so there was no 
> way I could install them on my Atlantis with the 50mm tires I’m running.  I 
> chose instead to install them on my old Trek 720 mostly just to see what 
> they were all about.  I had read that metal fenders can be a challenge to 
> install requiring patience.  I learned this is true.  What, I think, I also 
> discovered is that these fenders wrap so much of the tire that removing and 
> installing the rear wheel with the horizontal dropouts is a bit of a 
> challenge and a nice fender line pretty much impossible (not that that was 
> ever very important to me).  I have tentatively decided these things are 
> made for bikes with vertical dropouts. 
>
> What I have not been able to confirm is that metal fenders are quiet or 
> even quieter than plastic fenders.  On my first ride, the front fender 
> rattled on any but the smoothest pavement.  I’ve traced that to the stay 
> mounting bracket on the fender and I think I can solve that rattle.  BUT, 
> the rear fender, while it does not rattle, it seems to function as an echo 
> chamber or whisper dome that amplifies all the noise of the drivetrain!  I 
> have trouble attributing this annoying feature to my lack of installation 
> skills.  After only one ride (maybe I need to be more patient), I’m kinda 
> thinking these things may not be for me.  Has anyone else encountered this? 
>  What am I missing about these things?  If I can’t figure that out I may be 
> trying to find a new home for these and probably drop thoughts of 
> converting to metal on the Atlantis. 
>
>
> Ha, the cockpit shown here also came from the Univega.

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[RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Drw]

I'd be interested to hear how that sunrace sram setup works. I have 1x10 on 
my bubbe step through. sunrace big cassette, IRD mjolnir crank, silver 
friction on thumb shifter mount, xt derailler with wolftooth. I get tons of 
ghost shifting/slipping around on the three smallest gears and don't know 
which component is the culprit. 

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[RBW] Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[tc]

Bill, Colin, Adam - all great info!  Thank you. I was also thinking of raiding 
my Clem drivetrain, if I go forward with an Atlantipillar ... but this 12-spd 
Gx setup is so intriguing, and not as expensive as I thought it was. 

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Sugino 40x26 wide low double?

[Pancake]

Fitz Cyclez, great! He's my friend's neighbor in Santa Rosa, lovely guy. 

On Tuesday, 12 February 2019 11:17:32 UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I was just defining my wide-low double gear setup for my new Fitz 
> All-Road, and the gearing looks pretty similar. 
>
> 40/24 x 11-26 11 speed, with 55mm tires. 
>
> http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS=24,40=11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,26=2295=90=2.6=KMH=gearInches
>  
>  
> Dropping to a 22t small ring would mimic your low range of gears almost 
> exactly. I'm looking forward to riding this gearing. I think I'll have a 
> little more resolution in the 70s, and an extra 105" gear at the top end. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, Ca
>
>
> On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 5:50:45 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I've been running 42/25T x9  for years and love it.  Using a custom 
>> cassette, *here's my gear chart 
>> *
>>
>> Should be able to easily switch your combination into Mike's calculator.  
>>
>> If you try to bookmark yours, change the title and hit return, then hit 
>> save, recall, bookmark at every button you can find on the page - 
>>
>> - before you quit, copy the bookmark link at the bottom of the page and 
>> paste into a new window to make sure it kept your changes.  Then save your 
>> bookmark.  
>>
>> 
>>
>> Chain guard
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] SE Rivendell 25th Anniversary Celebration May 3/4/5 Greenville SC

[lconley]

I'm in - all three days. Now I just have to figure out which Riv(s) to take 
- the Bombadil seems a natural given the photo below. I need to see if I 
can get the HubbuhubbuH inside the Element.

Laing
Cocoa FL

. 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Kickstand tire rub

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Hi Dave,
Somewhere along the back side of the black foot there’s a lock/flap with a 
groove; you just need to unsnap and then slide up or down along the notches in 
the alloy part to your desired length then fold/snap the locking part back in 
place.

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[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

[Jock Dewey]

Brian:

Very nice work there, perfect proportions all around. And that ACORN! Such 
wonderful workmanship, we've got those on all our bikes, so useful and 
classy. 

Bravo.

BEST / Jock Dewey / Athens, GA

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:41:51 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Apologies in advance for the indoor lighting (currently 3 inches of 
> ice/freezing rain outside) but figured I would share some pictures of my 
> updated AHH. I bought the frame from Riv in 2013 and at the time, brazed on 
> Paul center pull brakes were not an option.
>
> Fast forward to current day. I took the frame and fork to Hanford Cycles 
> in Philadelphia for the following mods:
>
> Braze on mounts for Paul Racer Center Pull brakes
> Threaded rear fender mounts (brake & chainstay bridge)
> Provisions for Internal wiring in the down tube and front fork
> Chain hanger
>
> Since the work would require some re-painting I also included a set of 
> Honjo fenders to have them painted the same color as the frame. They did a 
> great job matching the existing paint and even gave me the leftovers for 
> future touch ups. 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Jon Dukeman,central Colorado]

Adam Have you looked at this site. You can post your pics here too.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendell/
Jon


On Friday, February 1, 2019 at 12:29:13 PM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> hi all, i want to create a thread where you just post a picture of your 
> rivendell(s) whenever you feel like it. hope this is OK w/ the mods. i love 
> lookin at pics of em all day. i will start with my sam hillborne.
>
>
> [image: IMG_3920.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[J Edward]

Patrick, the slush would build up from time to time but always fell out on its 
own before it got annoying. I was also going half my normal speed and spinning 
very low gears through the deeper stuff though, not sure if that made a 
difference. 

I can’t recommend a Clem (or a basket, for that matter) highly enough!

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:49:19 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
> "J": didn't you get slush buildup under your fenders? I use similar (SKS 65s) 
> over my (minimal tread) Big Ones, and got annoying though not inhibiting 
> rubbing at the bottom of the rear fender. Snow, not slush, but wettish, and 
> over dirt.
> 
> 
> Nice bikes posted on this thread. 
> 
> 
> Patrick Moore, who may one day buy a Clem (but not a basket) in ABQ, NM.
> 
> 
> On Tue, Feb 12, 2019 at 5:48 PM J Edward  wrote:
> 
> Here’s my trusty Clem, Big Eddy,  on my ride home from work Friday after a 
> week of commuting through all the atypical snow, ice and slush we have up 
> here in Seattle. I bought this bike from a list member about 11 months ago 
> (thanks again, Doug!) and after this week I’m now thoroughly convinced I can 
> ride this guy just about anywhere I need to go! 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
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> 
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still 'round the corner there may wait
> A new road or a secret gate,
> And though we pass them by today,
> Tomorrow we may come this way
> And take the hidden paths that run
> Towards the Moon or to the Sun.
>                                 --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> 
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> 
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> 
> Expensive! But good.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique

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[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

VERY nicelove the forward stay/light situation. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Canti Sam Hillborne 51cm, black and cream

[phil k]

Bumping this so I can get started on my wife's bike.

On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 9:10:12 AM UTC-5, phil k wrote:
>
> I already have some people interested, but pictures as promised!
>
> Unfortunately, some of the clear coat was scratched as I was bringing this 
> bike outside to take pictures this morning. I was carrying it on my 
> shoulders, and the top tube rubbed against the door frame but not very 
> noticeable.
>
> [image: 0IMG_0_BURST20190207082137655_COVER.jpg]
>
> [image: 0IMG_0_BURST20190207082130340_COVER.jpg]
>
>
> More photos 
>

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[RBW] Re: Updated A. Homer Hilsen

[Bill Schairer]

So nice!

Bill

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[RBW] Re: FS: Hanford Custom (in the Riv / Compass tradition)

[Reid Echols]

Just a quick note to say that Eric was a model seller, great to work with 
and meticulous in his packing of the frame. Simon at Hanford was also very 
helpful, identifying the tubing and dropouts for me, along with a couple 
more odds and ends. 

This is a real beauty of a frame; can't wait to get it built up. I'll try 
to post some photos when it's all ready to go. 

Reid in Austin 

On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:32:50 PM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> And...SOLD.
>
> I have no idea how much custom bikes go for, so it looks like I 
> underpriced it a bit. But no worries. I'm just glad it's going to a good 
> home!
>
> Eric
>
> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:04:57 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Sale pending...
>>
>> Thanks for all the interest.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 10:00:13 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>
>>> I am local and thankfully for my checking account, its too big. Simon 
>>> just did some mods on my A. Homer Hilsen and I can vouch for the quality of 
>>> his work and paint. Truly is a steal. Good luck with sale!
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 9:49:30 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 WOW. Very nice. A fair price and then some!

 KJ


 On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 5:22:29 PM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi guys-
>
>
> So I don’t know if there is any interest in this bike. But if so, I 
> figured this (and iBob) would be the forum for it.
>
>
> Up for sale is my Hanford all-rounder. Hanfords are custom bikes built 
> by Simon Firth here in Philadelphia. Simon used to be the main frame 
> builder at Bilenky until setting out on his own and starting Firth and 
> Wilson Transport Cycles and building his own bikes under the Hanford 
> badge.
>
>
> Simon built me this bike a year ago to serve as an all-rounder in the 
> Rivendell / Compass-ish tradition. It has higher handlebars and longish 
> chainstays like a Rivendell with low trail and lighter (though still 
> oversized) tubing. It was primarily built with commuting in mind, though 
> I’ve also used it for a lot of gravel riding in and around the city. The 
> low bottom bracket makes it really stable and easily dismountable at stop 
> lights. And the low-trail fork is even wired for a SON SL 
> ‘connector-less’ 
> hub (which I can also sell to a buyer). Its geometry was designed around 
> 40mm tires, though it was shod with Snoqualmie Passes (44mm) for its 
> entire 
> life. Here are the specs:
>
>
> Seat tube (c-c): 620mm
>
> Seat tube angle: 72 degrees
>
> Effective top tube: 590mm
>
> Top tube angle: 1.5 degrees
>
> Head tube angle: 72.5 degrees
>
> Chainstay length: 455mm
>
> Bottom bracket drop: 88mm
>
> Standover (with 40mm tires): 881mm
>
>
> (For Riv reference, I also ride a 62cm SimpleOne, which is what this 
> sizing was based one. So if that bike fits you, this one should too)
>
>
> It’s a fantastic bike, especially with a front rack (it used to have a 
> Nitto Mark’s Rack on it). It has lovely fillet brazes, rides super 
> smooth, 
> and is absolutely perfect for commuting or Riv-ish rides. It was built up 
> with very Rivish-parts : Deore deraillers, friction shifters, Sugino 
> triple 
> crank, etc. So it should fit your bin parts perfectly. The only real 
> issues 
> I can find are: (1) that the water bottle mounts were set a bit too far 
> down the down tube, so when using two water bottle cages, I need to use 
> one 
> of those Problem-solvers adapter thingys; and (2) the paint was still a 
> little tacky when the front derailleur was installed and there are 
> indentations in the paint. The frame still includes installed bottom 
> bracket and VO threadless headset. I also have a 70mm stem I can throw 
> in. 
> Here are some images:
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157678451374428
>
>
> Why am I selling it, you may ask? Well, I’m moving to the UK in the 
> summer and can only take what I can carry on the plane. So this, along 
> with 
> my other bikes (and possessions) need to go. I’ve stripped it and given a 
> bunch of the parts to friends for their various builds. Though I still 
> have 
> some of the other parts for sale.
>
>
> I paid $2500 for the frame about a year and a half ago, though as it’s 
> a custom I don’t expect to get anywhere near that. But it’s in excellent 
> condition and a great bike. I’m ashamed to admit I didn’t ride it nearly 
> as 
> much as I was expecting, so there’s very little wear and tear. So, down 
> to 
> brass tacks. How does $500 plus shipping through BikeFlights sound? Let 
> me 
> know via private message if you’re interested.
>
>

Re: [RBW] Kickstand tire rub

[David Bivins]

On my Clem H's kickstand, you could adjust that plastic bottom up and
down. For me, the plastic part fell off w/in weeks, so I got a
Pletscher to replace the whole thing.

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 12:09 AM Dave Redmon  wrote:
>
> My wife has a 52cm Clem L with Riv's stock silver kickstand, curved with a 
> black plastic bottom. How is its length adjustable?
>
> Dave in Kansas
>
>

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