[RBW] Re: What's your favorite painting of a Bombadil?

[Joe Bernard]

Mark@Riv's first cyclocross custom was my color gray with cream, that was a 
really pretty bike. I'll see if I can track down a pic. 



On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 10:19:39 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Nathan - I was waiting for that answer haha
>
> Thanks for the suggestions!  I know what you mean Michael about choosing a 
> paintjob that's too near an original color without being an original color. 
> I have thought about Atlantis blue-green too, as its such a beautiful and 
> iconic color but I also think it is for Atlantis' and Atlantis' alone. 
> Similarly I've thought about Riv blue because it's just awesome, but also 
> not very imaginative. 
>
> The grey of Joe's custom is pretty enticing as an option, to be honest, 
> though I would just do a white/cream panel headtube and seat tube collar.  
> British Racing green is also up near the top of the list now, thanks for 
> the suggestion!  I've always loved it as a colour and it does look great on 
> the Bombadil - and is a homage to my Clem H which I sold to fund this 
> Bombadil... 

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[RBW] Re: What's your favorite painting of a Bombadil?

[Jason Fuller]

Nathan - I was waiting for that answer haha

Thanks for the suggestions!  I know what you mean Michael about choosing a 
paintjob that's too near an original color without being an original color. 
I have thought about Atlantis blue-green too, as its such a beautiful and 
iconic color but I also think it is for Atlantis' and Atlantis' alone. 
Similarly I've thought about Riv blue because it's just awesome, but also 
not very imaginative. 

The grey of Joe's custom is pretty enticing as an option, to be honest, 
though I would just do a white/cream panel headtube and seat tube collar.  
British Racing green is also up near the top of the list now, thanks for 
the suggestion!  I've always loved it as a colour and it does look great on 
the Bombadil - and is a homage to my Clem H which I sold to fund this 
Bombadil... 

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[RBW] Re: Can you herd cattle on a Sam Hillbourne? Winged horse and a Dinosaur all on one ride.

[Mike Godwin]

I was going to say the gold statue is Dow Jones.

Mike SLO CA

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 7:27:58 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> You were 5 mins from my place (Southside on Formerly Lamar now Jean 
> Botham), I rode 30 miles, started around 10am. Twas breezy coming back to 
> downtown on the SF Trail.
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 8:14:47 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:
>
>> I had guesstimated around 40 longhorns but just found this online.
>>
>> It is an impressive display and I have been by there probably more than 
>> 20 times but never realized it's billed as largest according to the 
>> verbiage below.
>>
>> Paul in Dallas 
>>
>> Dallas does have some remarkable art and architecture in the area.
>>
>>
>> "The 49 bronze steers and 3 trail riders sculptures 
>>  were created by artist Robert 
>> Summers  of Glen 
>> Rose, Texas . Each 
>> steer is larger-than-life at six feet high; all together the sculpture is 
>> the largest bronze monument of its kind in the world.[2] 
>> 
>>  Set along an artificial ridge and past a man-made limestone cliff, 
>> native landscaping with a flowing stream and waterfall help create the 
>> dramatic effect."
>>
>> Three more from today's snaps...
>>
>> Some great detail on these.
>>
>> [image: Image] 
>>
>> [image: Image] 
>>
>> [image: Image] 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: What's your favorite painting of a Bombadil?

[Michael Baquerizo]

as someone who's always scared of making aesthetic choices, especially when 
given infinite options, I really like rivs painted in the colors of other 
rivs. seems you're in a similar school of thought but to me the hunq and 
the bombadil are too similar. I'd go for something different, like 
antlantis blue/green. the blue of the new sam (or old appaloosa) would be 
cool  too. I can't imagine it would be hard to ask for a code and then get 
at least an approximation. 
 

On Friday, March 19, 2021 at 8:27:47 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:

> So, many of you are probably aware of the Bombadil that lives within my 
> realm of belongings thanks to Joe having taken it in and then releasing it 
> back into the wild. I, as many of you, love the clearcoat-over-raw finish 
> that it has.  I'm 50% sure I want to keep it this way, even though it 
> provides sub-optimal corrosion protection, and just touch up problem areas 
> as they arise. 
>
> But I'm also 50% sure I want to strip it back down to a frame, have it 
> restored and frame-saver'd, and professionally painted. Timeline on this 
> wouldn't be immediate - probably next year, or the year after that, but I 
> like to plan ahead. To my chagrin in this group I would not be sending it 
> to Joe Bell because I'm in Canada and it would be like $400 in shipping 
> alone, plus I'm local to Chris Dekerf who has a very capable paint studio 
> that does lots of impressive custom work (all of Chromag's locally made 
> frames, for instance).  
>
> I absolutely would be doing a proper two-color paintjob with all the lug 
> detailing that a MUSA Rivendell has, and I want the color selection to look 
> like a natural choice for the Bombadil - it doesn't have to be a Rivendell 
> colour, but I want it to look like it could easily have been in 2009.  I 
> also wouldn't do this unless I can get the proper decals to apply after, 
> though Riv never responds to my emails so I'll probably need to give them a 
> call on this. 
>
> I am gravitating towards greens and greys at the moment.  Ideas include: 
> - Classic Hunq green 
> - Vaughn's custom green (bit more of a sage quality) 
> - Bomba / Hunq dark grey, but without the red paneling - maybe the cream 
> white??
> - I don't know this is hard! 
>
> Leah made me aware that Taiwan does not use consistent paint coding as 
> North America, so while I love the idea of the new Platypus blue-silver 
> (actually green-blue), it's probably not possible.  
>
> My knowledge of what colors the Bombadil came in is limited by what google 
> tells me because I did not know of this bike when it was new. There are 
> surely period-correct Rivendell colors I haven't considered, but many of 
> you were there and lived through it - and I'd love your ideas!  
>
> [image: Bomby.JPG]
>
> Many thanks, 
> Jason in Vancouver BC 
>   
>

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[RBW] WTB 650b wheel set rim brake

[Jack Manns]

Looking for a Pacenti Brevet 28 or 32h, rim brake, tubeless compatible for 
crust lighting bolt Canti so I will have think 130 mm rear spacing.  Dynamo 
a plus especially a son.  

Also, what is the best way to post on an iPhone... the google interface is 
very clunky?

Jack dc area

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Re: [RBW] Platypus Weight?

[Anthony Coffin]

Not an answer to the question you are asking, but word from Will is it’s
essentially the same tube set as the Appaloosa. I’m guessing that would be
a medium duty tube set by Riv standards.

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 9:11 AM Philip Barrett 
wrote:

> Any ideas what the Platypus frameset will weigh? Yes, I know it's a
> weight-weenie question & the Riv-Mafia will be all over me for it but I'm
> just interested. I thought it was mentioned somewhere on their website but
> I can't find it.
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] FS: NITTO RM-3 mountain drop handle (silver/580)

[Brian Carbajal]

Bought these and never used. 25.4 clamp dia

Brand new. 

$78 shipped OBO. Paypal friends and family (or add the fee). 


pics 

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[RBW] Re: New look for rivbike.com and new News blog

[Ted Fay]

nice work harder than it appears. 

many of the internal links are broken, and wind up on the home page. it’s 
not a great experience, and Google doesn’t love it. 

fixing all the links in transferred content is a pain, but at a minimum 
have a good 404 page. better to tell the user you know they wound up in the 
wrong place then just sending them there

On Thursday, February 11, 2021 at 10:56:21 PM UTC-6 Dave wrote:

> Hi Everyone, 
>
> Just a heads-up that we launched a new theme today for the rivbike.com 
> webstore. We enlarged the photos all around, spruced up the homepage, 
> improved the search, and updated a number of things for a smoother 
> experience on desktop and mobile. We hope you like it!
>
> The other big reveal is that the Blug, our newsy blog that has been on 
> Tumblr ever since 2010, has now moved within rivbike.com to 
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news.   With that move, you now have one 
> site for all the latest product updates, news and Grant's blog. Just head 
> to the homepage.
>
> Enjoy and let us know what you think. 
>
> Dave Schonenberg
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Susie/Wolbis Front-Center Question

[carlos recarte]

Thanks, Bill! These messages are coming in a little slow, but that is
exactly my question. My current bike has a headtube angle (73 degrees) and
a fork offset of 65mm with a resulting trial of 43mm. This is on the higher
side of low trail but allows for the kind of handling I like and no toe
overlap with fenders and tires (700c) that measure over 2.3 inches. I think
this is one of the advantages of going low trail with this headtube angle
and tire size in that it allows for a pretty nimble feeling in terms of
handling with big and tall tires and no toe overlap. The Susie in the L
size has a headtube angle of 69 degrees, slightly less fork offset at 63mm,
and a resulting trail of 79mm. This leads to two things, a longer
front-center, and very high trail. I am assuming because of the long
front-center there is little toe overlap on the Susie for most people but I
am wondering what the handling is like with such a wide tire and such high
trail? I understand the advantage of high trail in really rock conditions
and rooted single track, but I do not find the lowish trail on my current
setup to pose any real issues in these conditions, especially when I put
tires bigger than the 2.3s currently on it (which slightly increases trail
but not by much).

I understand these are also personal preferences but I am wondering what
the impact of such high trail and as proxy a really long front end on the
subjective experiences of handling people are having with this bike? I am
sure that all of this could be mitigated to some extent with stem and
handlebar choice, but I am curious as I find this design really interesting
from a geometry point of view and would like to build a bike with similar
geometry to try it out. I suppose ultimate stability is the aim of the
Susie, but are people finding it sluggish to turn or to go uphill (wheel
flop), or is the proposed smoothness of such a long wheelbase sort of
canceling this out? Thanks again for the answers!!

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 10:03 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> The Original Poster asked questions bout the design of the Susie/Wolbis,
> and stated their favorite bike has similarly long chainstays but a front
> center that is fully 4 inches (ten centimeters) shorter.  The Original
> Poster asked for a comparison.
>
> Maybe it would be useful to the discussion for you to show us that
> favorite bike of yours, and let's compare it to your size of Susie.  Post
> some pictures!
>
> My first instinct is that in my size of Susie, if the front center was 4
> inches shorter I'd have TCO which I wouldn't want on a hillibike, and the
> front end would be super heavy.  The positive of a heavy front end may be
> that the front tire hooks up better.  The bad part of a heavy front end is
> that I'd have a harder time getting the front end to roll up and over
> things.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 11:39:33 AM UTC-7 reca...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> Since I've been *very* slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the
>> past few years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some
>> geometries work for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to
>> appreciate the method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using
>> front-center as a guide for putting together a frame geometry with relation
>> to getting the rider's weight distribution the way they want it (i.e.
>> getting the bike to ride and fit the way one wants).
>>
>> A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the
>> following method (paraphrased):
>>
>>
>>1. pick the trail you want
>>2. pick where you want your wheels to be
>>3. pick BB height
>>4. make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired
>>position(s) through HT length, stem, bars, etc.
>>
>> So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more
>> upright and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to
>> accommodate this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the
>> front-center length of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of
>> making the total wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and
>> corresponding fork offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most
>> importantly is, what are the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it
>> still handle in the way that most other high-trail bikes characteristically
>> do? I ask because I am really interested in this design, understand the
>> benefits of longer chainstays especially for my kind of more upright
>> position and preferred weight distribution, but have still found that my
>> favorite kind of bike that I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center,
>> lowish trail, and a  front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the
>> Susie. I am by no means a low trail evangelist, so  I guess what I am
>> looking for are some impressions in terms of front-end handling of the
>> bike?
>>
>> Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the 

[RBW] Re: FS - Bags and a rack! Sackville, Fab's Chest, Nitto

[Adam Bowen]

EVERYTHING IS SOLD! THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

On Thursday, March 18, 2021 at 11:28:39 AM UTC-4 Adam Bowen wrote:

> Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
> Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - *SOLD*
> Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
> shipped
> Nitto Mini-Front 32F - *SOLD*
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:52:03 PM UTC-4 Sean B. wrote:
>
>> Interested in the fabios chest, do you have the mounting hardware for the 
>> saddle? 
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 1:38:54 PM UTC-5 Adam Bowen wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all! I have some bags for sale. All used, but not for very long and 
>>> none abused. Located in Philadelphia if you want a local pickup, otherwise, 
>>> I will ship at the buyer's expense. 
>>>
>>> Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
>>> Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - $60 + $10 Shipping
>>> Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
>>> shipped
>>> Nitto Mini-Front 32F - $90 + $20 shipped
>>>
>>> PHOTOS: 
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Toe348pvjfisziROnus48ArlyxbvHJno?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any Susie owners out there?

[Benjamin Park]

I snagged the last one! Well thanks to all the reviews here and elsewhere, 
including some long discussions with Will, I bought the LAST Susie! It's a 
large, and I'm a little anxious it's too big even though plenty of people 
say it won't be (PBH 86). I currently ride a Jones Plus LWB size M, and 
that's a big bike. I imagine the L Susie will be big too but hopefully not 
as heavy, and the ride might be similar. Any Jones riders out there who can 
confirm?

Gonna get RBW to build it. I'll be using it for single track and gravel, as 
well as around town.  Drivetrain wise, thinking of a double in the front, 
and maybe 10 speed in the rear? What set ups have people been using?

Thanks y'all- Ben in ATL

On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 9:15:39 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Every few days I'd go on the Riv website and see if that orange 53 was 
> still available - and I noticed the other day when it wasn't.  Glad it's 
> gone to a list member and I'll get to see it built up hopefully!  There was 
> no possible way I could buy it, but I liked to daydream... 

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[RBW] WTB: Riv Bullmoose w/ Quill

[Nikko Mendoza]

Hey y’all, 

I’m looking for these bars. They’re sold out at Riv, but hoping someone has em 
in their bin. Local pickup would be great, but I’d also pay for shipping. 

Thanks, 
Nikko in Oakland 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Redwood Frameset - 65cm - $1000 plus shipping/packing

[David B]

Just one bump and lower, then I'll let this simmer. 
$900 for frame/fork, and King headset. Fully lugged, Toyo-made for the same 
price as a Roadini.
I understand this could take a while to find the right buyer - that's 
perfectly fine.
I'll update this thread when the frameset sells, so if you're reading this 
months in the future and are interested, send me a message.
Thanks,
David

On Saturday, March 13, 2021 at 12:54:21 PM UTC-6 David B wrote:

> This has been a long time coming, but I've been riding my Clem a lot 
> lately and it suites my riding needs perfectly so my Redwood has not been 
> ridden in a long while so it's time to move it on, or at least offer it up. 
> This is not a financially-motivated sale, so I'll hang on to it as long as 
> need be before it sells.
>
> The Redwood name and color was reserved for the larger 2 sizes of the 
> Romulus run, which was a slightly less fancy version of the Rambouillet. 
> Fully lugged, Toyo built.
> The color is beautiful and the paint is in great condition.
> 65cm frame - geometry and info here: 
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus/redflyer/04.html
>
> It will fit up to 38mm 700c tires OR up to 47mm 650b tires. As a 700c 
> bike, it easily fits 32mm tires plus fenders.
> With Mafac Raids I was able to fit full fenders on top of 47mm 650b tires. 
> For 650b, Tektro long reach brakes also work with slots filed slightly to 
> extend the brake reach - I have a set of these that fit that I would sell 
> if you're interested in running 650b. 
>
> Photos:
> As a 650b build:
>
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/B710F-BFJwP/
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/BgezQjzDTMS/
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/BfqddiWBisC/
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/BKyr5k9DUER/
>
> As a 700c build:
>
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/Bl1UFf_B0aT/
>- https://www.instagram.com/p/BE4WrnSMmVF/
>
> $1000 for frame, fork, and Chris King polished silver headset.
> Again, this isn't a financially-motivated sale, so I'm not entertaining 
> offers or trades at this time.
> Local pickup in the Chicagoland area highly preferred. I am willing to 
> ship - HOWEVER - you'll need to make arrangements with a bike shop for 
> packing and shipping. I'd like to just drop it off at a shop that you've 
> made arrangements with and they take it from there.
>
> If you're interested, or have questions, send me a message.
> Thanks,
> David 
> River Grove, IL
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus vs. Appaloosa

[Roberta]

Jay, 

I’m selling my Joe Appaloosa complete bike to buy a Platypus. I think the 
Joe A is great for what you’re looking for and the reason I’m selling it vs 
my AHH is , specifically , that I don’t ride off roads like you’re 
describing. ( I’ve been procrastinating on listing it. ). It is great for 
the poorly maintained roads  of Philadlelphia , with potholes and awful 
patch jobs and trolly tracks. I’ve ridden a Chev a few times but I didn’t 
think it had the same magical ride as the Joe. Hence, the Joe purchase and 
not the Chev. I’m hoping that the Platy is magical and from what Leah 
describes, it is. 

If you are interested in a full bike 51 cm Joe A, I’ll be in N NJ this 
weekend. Otherwise I’m not too far in Philadelphia, just down the turnpike 
.If you’re willing to wait, I’d be happy to let you test ride my 55 
Platy when I get it. However, I’m not too sure it will be avail past the 
day it goes on sale. PM me if interested in Joe A or a ride on the Platy. 

Roberta

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 8:46:49 PM UTC-4 Jay LePree wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I am deciding between an Appaloosa (Atlantis-like) and the Platypus  
> (Chevoit like).  I would plan to use the bicycle for commuting and long 
> rides on pavement and gravel/double track (with some roots and rocks thrown 
> in - nothing technical - but in NJ we don't have smooth fire trails, our 
> woods have a lot of roots and rocks.).
> Does anyone have a Chevoit or an Appaloosa that can comment?  I am 
> thinking the Platypus would be a better for me (as I don't plan to carry 
> more than 30 pounds).  Just not sure for riding dirt roads and in the woods 
> of NJ with roots and rocks (nothing technical but just not smooth dirt.)
> Jay
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Jeffrey Arita]

Peter,

I own a lot of Park Tools, including a CN-10.  I use them quite often.  
Perhaps your CN-10 is a lemon?  Give Park a call and explain your 
experience with that particular tool.  They just might send you a 
replacement.  

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:17:41 PM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> That's interesting, and raises the question of whether their customer 
> support might be relied on for other things.
>
> I own many Park tools (spanners, hex drivers, spoke wrenches etc), but 
> only a few with moving parts: The PAW-12 crescent wrench, the CCP-2 dual 
> 22mm (Campy/Shimano)/23mm (TA) square-taper crank extractor, and my bête 
> noire, the CN-10 cable/housing cutter.
>
> I bought this cutter brand-spanking new, and it's been terrible from day 
> one. When the pivot bolt is tightened, it's too tight to close for the cut; 
> when you loosen it enough for smooth travel, it leaves a ragged edge on the 
> housing and pulls threads out of cables. There's no middle ground; there 
> should obviously be some sort of thin Teflon washer (or even brass) between 
> the two arms of the cutter, so that you get smooth travel but the arms are 
> close enough for a clean cut. To me, this seems like a fatal design flaw. 
> For decades, Felco and VAR have made cable cutters that work, and I've 
> heard good things about Shimano's cutters; why would a brand that makes 
> premium products design cutters with so much friction in the system that it 
> doesn't perform the function for which it's designed?
>
> I've never just thrown it out. I just stick it/throw it back into my 
> toolbox, take it out forgetfully every six months to cut a housing, make a 
> ghastly mess of the job, and get mad all over again. It's never occurred to 
> me to phone Park and complain about the fact that their expensive cutter 
> doesn't work at all.
>
> Peter "ten times bit, not shy enough" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 12:06:45 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
>> time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
>> they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
>> service in my book.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
>> PA wrote:
>>
>>> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
>>> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
>>> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
>>> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
>>> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
>>> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
>>> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
>>> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
>>> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
>>> bucks.
>>>
>>> [image: Park1.jpg]
>>>
>>> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
>>> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
>>> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>>>
>>> Marty
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Can you herd cattle on a Sam Hillbourne? Winged horse and a Dinosaur all on one ride.

[Philip Barrett]

You were 5 mins from my place (Southside on Formerly Lamar now Jean 
Botham), I rode 30 miles, started around 10am. Twas breezy coming back to 
downtown on the SF Trail.
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 8:14:47 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:

> I had guesstimated around 40 longhorns but just found this online.
>
> It is an impressive display and I have been by there probably more than 20 
> times but never realized it's billed as largest according to the verbiage 
> below.
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>
> Dallas does have some remarkable art and architecture in the area.
>
>
> "The 49 bronze steers and 3 trail riders sculptures 
>  were created by artist Robert 
> Summers  of Glen 
> Rose, Texas . Each 
> steer is larger-than-life at six feet high; all together the sculpture is 
> the largest bronze monument of its kind in the world.[2] 
> 
>  Set along an artificial ridge and past a man-made limestone cliff, 
> native landscaping with a flowing stream and waterfall help create the 
> dramatic effect."
>
> Three more from today's snaps...
>
> Some great detail on these.
>
> [image: Image] 
>
> [image: Image] 
>
> [image: Image] 
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS BDB Pelican Touring frame 54cm

[J L]

Hello Rivs,

There may be some interest here in this bike frame and fork pick up in San 
Francisco. $500 obo

Contact me offline for pics or offer.

Tig welded 2010 frame designed in San Francisco by Box Dog BIkes.

Size 54 (56cm C-T seat tube and 56cm top tube)
Standard diameter tubing, but not ultra light, camping loads and touring no 
problem.
73° st and ht angles
700c x 38+ fit easily with fenders
Cantilever or v brakes
Comes with threaded chris king headset installed.

Pretty blue powercoat - shows signs of age. 

I have the full bike worth of parts including racks and canvas bags, dyno hub, 
phil wood etc but typically have better luck selling frames on their own. 

Thanks all! 


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[RBW] Re: Platypus vs. Appaloosa

[Joe Bernard]

I've owned an Appaloosa and Cheviot and they felt pretty similar to me as 
road bikes (I didn't ride trails). The only demerit I would give the Chev 
for your riding conditions is caliper brakes, but that's been changed on 
the Platypus to the same v-brakes as Appaloosa. Between Appa and Platy I 
would pick my favorite color and standover preference, LimeOlive Platypus!*

*Actually I would pick the Raspberry Metallic on Leah's Platy but Grant 
says that's never gonna happen 

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:46:49 PM UTC-7 Jay LePree wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I am deciding between an Appaloosa (Atlantis-like) and the Platypus  
> (Chevoit like).  I would plan to use the bicycle for commuting and long 
> rides on pavement and gravel/double track (with some roots and rocks thrown 
> in - nothing technical - but in NJ we don't have smooth fire trails, our 
> woods have a lot of roots and rocks.).
> Does anyone have a Chevoit or an Appaloosa that can comment?  I am 
> thinking the Platypus would be a better for me (as I don't plan to carry 
> more than 30 pounds).  Just not sure for riding dirt roads and in the woods 
> of NJ with roots and rocks (nothing technical but just not smooth dirt.)
> Jay
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] WTB clem saddle

[jeffbog...@hotmail.com]

Anyone have a spare saddle from their Clem? 
Please send pm with price shipped to 36532. 
Thanks!

Jeff
(Alabama)

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Re: [RBW] Can you herd cattle on a Sam Hillbourne? Winged horse and a Dinosaur all on one ride.

[Patrick Moore]

I used all the time I saved on patrol to good purpose, junior year,
swatting up on Hooke and Boyle and Lavoisier and the other early chemists
and theoreticians of atomic theory, not to mention Descarte's *Algebra.* Aced
math and science that year, though I got little sleep on weekends, though I
occasionally managed a kip in Hawkeye's tent.

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 6:46 PM True Golden  wrote:

> Wow Patrick!
>
> That sounds like some interesting times at university!
>
> About 5 years back I got interested in the Mash TV show and finally
> watched all the episodes.
>
> Paul in Dallas
>
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Patrick Moore]

You're 50-55 lb heavier than I, but I still think Riv's weight limits are
in good part warranty control, and I have no problem with that. That goes
double for the official Nitto rack weight limits.

On the other side of the coin, I have a 60 X 56 (center-to-center, my
perfect size with level tt) early '70s Libertas frameset, light 531,
waiting for a buildup. F + F + steel Campy headset = 5.9 lb on a digital
scale. A similarly-sized Calfee Ruby F+F+hs in *tout carbon fibre'* was 5.4
lb. Libertas may take 38s; tempted to build it up as an all-rounder fixed
gear.

1999 Joe Starck Riv custom 26" wheel gofast custom: 18 lb with heavy-ish
Phil hubs and 2 cogs.

I think my blue 58 cm Ram built up with fenders and dyno was ~24 lb.

For contrast, I could not get my M Fargo with dyno and rack over 32 lb.

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 6:33 PM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> I think when you factor in my size (6'3" and 225) and the fact that I do
> carry at least 10 additional pounds (and a lot more when I'm picking up
> stuff at the store on the way home), the Atlantis made a lot more sense
> than a Homer or Sam. Riv's website says 220 is a good weight limit for a
> Sam frame, and if you weight that much you shouldn't load it up with extra
> stuff. I'm sure a lighter bike would do everything I need to do and more,
> though. I just wanted to follow what Riv suggests...they know their bikes
> better than I do.
>
> I should also add that I weighed my bike by picking it up and standing on
> the scale I use to weight myself. Probably not the most accurate way to
> measure, but I doubt it's more than a couple pounds off.
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 7:19:05 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Wow, 40 lb! No matter if the bike is fun to ride. But I regularly carried
>> 35 lb in groceries, and up to 45 lb, on a very light *tout 531* early
>> '70s Motobecane racing frame with 11 oz Tubus Fly rack with no problems in
>> the 2 or 3 years that it was my principal grocery and commuting beater -- I
>> was commuting 15-16 miles 1-way across town back then. 67" fixed gear with
>> full fenders and considerable TCO; set up for a while with wonderfully
>> capacious rear panniers constructed from $5, 10 gallon white plastic
>> kitchen trash cans from Target. You *do not* need a 40 lb bike to carry
>> heavy loads!
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 5:38 PM Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>>
>>> Very interesting discussion! I don't think I care about weight, but I
>>> think it's nice to know what you're working with. My MIT 59cm Atlantis is a
>>> whopping 39 pounds apparently. That seems WAY heavier than it should be,
>>> but I do have a Mark's rack and basket, a flimsy/cheap rear rack, an
>>> X-small Sacvkille bag on the saddle with all my flat repair
>>> tools/multitool/spare tube, and empty x-small Sackville on the handlebars
>>> that I put my phone, keys, wallet in, and I have Atlas rims, shikoro tires,
>>> tubes, etc
>>>
>>> I think I could do a lighter setup for fast/fun riding, but since I ride
>>> to work as much as I can, the stouter and heavier frame of the Atlantis was
>>> needed as I carry at least 10lbs of stuff (weight of market bags that hang
>>> on the rear rack + laptop, charger, etc... Maybe someday I'll get a Sam and
>>> put nothing but a pair of bottle cages on it.
>>>
>>> Ben in Omaha
>>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Can you herd cattle on a Sam Hillbourne? Winged horse and a Dinosaur all on one ride.

[True Golden]

Wow Patrick!

That sounds like some interesting times at university!

About 5 years back I got interested in the Mash TV show and finally watched all 
the episodes.

Paul in Dallas

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[RBW] Platypus vs. Appaloosa

[Jay LePree]

Hi all:

I am deciding between an Appaloosa (Atlantis-like) and the Platypus  
(Chevoit like).  I would plan to use the bicycle for commuting and long 
rides on pavement and gravel/double track (with some roots and rocks thrown 
in - nothing technical - but in NJ we don't have smooth fire trails, our 
woods have a lot of roots and rocks.).
Does anyone have a Chevoit or an Appaloosa that can comment?  I am thinking 
the Platypus would be a better for me (as I don't plan to carry more than 
30 pounds).  Just not sure for riding dirt roads and in the woods of NJ 
with roots and rocks (nothing technical but just not smooth dirt.)
Jay
Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Can you herd cattle on a Sam Hillbourne? Winged horse and a Dinosaur all on one ride.

[True Golden]

A bit of searching on net reveals the golden stature is this:


Spirit of Communication is the formal name for a statue originally called 
Genius of Telegraphy. The statue has been the symbol of 
AT (and also the former Western 
Electric) since their 
commission was completed in 1916. It is also known informally as the Golden Boy 
statue and formerly as Genius of Electricity.

Paul in Dallas

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Philip Barrett]

This is turning into an interesting discussion, here's my measurements on a 
Clem Smith L;

Frame = 6.6lbs
Fork = 2.4lbs
*Total = 9lbs*

With a very typical Riv build kit including dynamo wheel, front & rear 
Nitto racks and a bell, the total weight comes to 37.2lbs.

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 7:19:05 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Wow, 40 lb! No matter if the bike is fun to ride. But I regularly carried 
> 35 lb in groceries, and up to 45 lb, on a very light *tout 531* early 
> '70s Motobecane racing frame with 11 oz Tubus Fly rack with no problems in 
> the 2 or 3 years that it was my principal grocery and commuting beater -- I 
> was commuting 15-16 miles 1-way across town back then. 67" fixed gear with 
> full fenders and considerable TCO; set up for a while with wonderfully 
> capacious rear panniers constructed from $5, 10 gallon white plastic 
> kitchen trash cans from Target. You *do not* need a 40 lb bike to carry 
> heavy loads!
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 5:38 PM Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>
>> Very interesting discussion! I don't think I care about weight, but I 
>> think it's nice to know what you're working with. My MIT 59cm Atlantis is a 
>> whopping 39 pounds apparently. That seems WAY heavier than it should be, 
>> but I do have a Mark's rack and basket, a flimsy/cheap rear rack, an 
>> X-small Sacvkille bag on the saddle with all my flat repair 
>> tools/multitool/spare tube, and empty x-small Sackville on the handlebars 
>> that I put my phone, keys, wallet in, and I have Atlas rims, shikoro tires, 
>> tubes, etc
>>
>> I think I could do a lighter setup for fast/fun riding, but since I ride 
>> to work as much as I can, the stouter and heavier frame of the Atlantis was 
>> needed as I carry at least 10lbs of stuff (weight of market bags that hang 
>> on the rear rack + laptop, charger, etc... Maybe someday I'll get a Sam and 
>> put nothing but a pair of bottle cages on it. 
>>
>> Ben in Omaha
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Ben Mihovk]

I think when you factor in my size (6'3" and 225) and the fact that I do 
carry at least 10 additional pounds (and a lot more when I'm picking up 
stuff at the store on the way home), the Atlantis made a lot more sense 
than a Homer or Sam. Riv's website says 220 is a good weight limit for a 
Sam frame, and if you weight that much you shouldn't load it up with extra 
stuff. I'm sure a lighter bike would do everything I need to do and more, 
though. I just wanted to follow what Riv suggests...they know their bikes 
better than I do. 

I should also add that I weighed my bike by picking it up and standing on 
the scale I use to weight myself. Probably not the most accurate way to 
measure, but I doubt it's more than a couple pounds off. 
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 7:19:05 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Wow, 40 lb! No matter if the bike is fun to ride. But I regularly carried 
> 35 lb in groceries, and up to 45 lb, on a very light *tout 531* early 
> '70s Motobecane racing frame with 11 oz Tubus Fly rack with no problems in 
> the 2 or 3 years that it was my principal grocery and commuting beater -- I 
> was commuting 15-16 miles 1-way across town back then. 67" fixed gear with 
> full fenders and considerable TCO; set up for a while with wonderfully 
> capacious rear panniers constructed from $5, 10 gallon white plastic 
> kitchen trash cans from Target. You *do not* need a 40 lb bike to carry 
> heavy loads!
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 5:38 PM Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>
>> Very interesting discussion! I don't think I care about weight, but I 
>> think it's nice to know what you're working with. My MIT 59cm Atlantis is a 
>> whopping 39 pounds apparently. That seems WAY heavier than it should be, 
>> but I do have a Mark's rack and basket, a flimsy/cheap rear rack, an 
>> X-small Sacvkille bag on the saddle with all my flat repair 
>> tools/multitool/spare tube, and empty x-small Sackville on the handlebars 
>> that I put my phone, keys, wallet in, and I have Atlas rims, shikoro tires, 
>> tubes, etc
>>
>> I think I could do a lighter setup for fast/fun riding, but since I ride 
>> to work as much as I can, the stouter and heavier frame of the Atlantis was 
>> needed as I carry at least 10lbs of stuff (weight of market bags that hang 
>> on the rear rack + laptop, charger, etc... Maybe someday I'll get a Sam and 
>> put nothing but a pair of bottle cages on it. 
>>
>> Ben in Omaha
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Patrick Moore]

Wow, 40 lb! No matter if the bike is fun to ride. But I regularly carried
35 lb in groceries, and up to 45 lb, on a very light *tout 531* early '70s
Motobecane racing frame with 11 oz Tubus Fly rack with no problems in the 2
or 3 years that it was my principal grocery and commuting beater -- I was
commuting 15-16 miles 1-way across town back then. 67" fixed gear with full
fenders and considerable TCO; set up for a while with wonderfully capacious
rear panniers constructed from $5, 10 gallon white plastic kitchen trash
cans from Target. You *do not* need a 40 lb bike to carry heavy loads!

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 5:38 PM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> Very interesting discussion! I don't think I care about weight, but I
> think it's nice to know what you're working with. My MIT 59cm Atlantis is a
> whopping 39 pounds apparently. That seems WAY heavier than it should be,
> but I do have a Mark's rack and basket, a flimsy/cheap rear rack, an
> X-small Sacvkille bag on the saddle with all my flat repair
> tools/multitool/spare tube, and empty x-small Sackville on the handlebars
> that I put my phone, keys, wallet in, and I have Atlas rims, shikoro tires,
> tubes, etc
>
> I think I could do a lighter setup for fast/fun riding, but since I ride
> to work as much as I can, the stouter and heavier frame of the Atlantis was
> needed as I carry at least 10lbs of stuff (weight of market bags that hang
> on the rear rack + laptop, charger, etc... Maybe someday I'll get a Sam and
> put nothing but a pair of bottle cages on it.
>
> Ben in Omaha
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Ben Mihovk]

Very interesting discussion! I don't think I care about weight, but I think 
it's nice to know what you're working with. My MIT 59cm Atlantis is a 
whopping 39 pounds apparently. That seems WAY heavier than it should be, 
but I do have a Mark's rack and basket, a flimsy/cheap rear rack, an 
X-small Sacvkille bag on the saddle with all my flat repair 
tools/multitool/spare tube, and empty x-small Sackville on the handlebars 
that I put my phone, keys, wallet in, and I have Atlas rims, shikoro tires, 
tubes, etc

I think I could do a lighter setup for fast/fun riding, but since I ride to 
work as much as I can, the stouter and heavier frame of the Atlantis was 
needed as I carry at least 10lbs of stuff (weight of market bags that hang 
on the rear rack + laptop, charger, etc... Maybe someday I'll get a Sam and 
put nothing but a pair of bottle cages on it. 

Ben in Omaha



On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 6:04:06 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> If I ever get around to opening my Susie box and I can give a rough 
> weight. It's rough because the only scale I have is a 1970's 25 pound 
> "American Family" scale. It's accurate to the 1/2 or 1/4 pound at least. 
> The UPS box is rounded off to 15 pounds though, so if someone has a 59cm. 
> Susie box with packaging they could weigh it and subtract from 15 for an 
> even rougher estimate. My frame inside is plus only the stock headset.  
>
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:51:32 PM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>
>> I don't recall Rivendell ever quoting weights, other than a comment that 
>> the Atlantis is about a pound more than other frames (this was wayback when 
>> they had fewer models).  My 58 cm Atlantis in stock Rivendell build c. 2003 
>> was around 26#.  Like happens to us all, as it's aged it's gained weight.  
>> Heavier rims & tires, racks, dirt, ???.  Last time I weighed it was right 
>> at 30 lbs.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:25:55 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I can’t imagine someone who wanted a certain Rivendell bike turning it 
>>> down because another model weighed a pound less.
>>>
>>> I’m just interested in what  design choices have what results.  Like the 
>>> step-throughs.  How does a Platypus (mixte) compare to a Susie (swooping 
>>> top tube) compare to a Clem L (swooping top tube with brace)?  And how 
>>> would these compare to a double-diamond of the same approximate fit?  The 
>>> problem would be finding any way you could compare them directly.
>>> But other than “only a couple of pounds heavier than carbon”, we really 
>>> don’t hear much about Rivendell weights.
>>>
>>> For myself, I love the Sam because of fit and ride.  But I would be 
>>> interested.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: What's your favorite painting of a Bombadil?

[Andrew Turner]

I'll second that blue paintjob, I really love the darker headtube look. 

On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 6:32:31 PM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:

> British racing green and cream.  
>
> [image: Green bomba.jpg]
>
> On Friday, March 19, 2021 at 7:27:47 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> So, many of you are probably aware of the Bombadil that lives within my 
>> realm of belongings thanks to Joe having taken it in and then releasing it 
>> back into the wild. I, as many of you, love the clearcoat-over-raw finish 
>> that it has.  I'm 50% sure I want to keep it this way, even though it 
>> provides sub-optimal corrosion protection, and just touch up problem areas 
>> as they arise. 
>>
>> But I'm also 50% sure I want to strip it back down to a frame, have it 
>> restored and frame-saver'd, and professionally painted. Timeline on this 
>> wouldn't be immediate - probably next year, or the year after that, but I 
>> like to plan ahead. To my chagrin in this group I would not be sending it 
>> to Joe Bell because I'm in Canada and it would be like $400 in shipping 
>> alone, plus I'm local to Chris Dekerf who has a very capable paint studio 
>> that does lots of impressive custom work (all of Chromag's locally made 
>> frames, for instance).  
>>
>> I absolutely would be doing a proper two-color paintjob with all the lug 
>> detailing that a MUSA Rivendell has, and I want the color selection to look 
>> like a natural choice for the Bombadil - it doesn't have to be a Rivendell 
>> colour, but I want it to look like it could easily have been in 2009.  I 
>> also wouldn't do this unless I can get the proper decals to apply after, 
>> though Riv never responds to my emails so I'll probably need to give them a 
>> call on this. 
>>
>> I am gravitating towards greens and greys at the moment.  Ideas include: 
>> - Classic Hunq green 
>> - Vaughn's custom green (bit more of a sage quality) 
>> - Bomba / Hunq dark grey, but without the red paneling - maybe the cream 
>> white??
>> - I don't know this is hard! 
>>
>> Leah made me aware that Taiwan does not use consistent paint coding as 
>> North America, so while I love the idea of the new Platypus blue-silver 
>> (actually green-blue), it's probably not possible.  
>>
>> My knowledge of what colors the Bombadil came in is limited by what 
>> google tells me because I did not know of this bike when it was new. There 
>> are surely period-correct Rivendell colors I haven't considered, but many 
>> of you were there and lived through it - and I'd love your ideas!  
>>
>> [image: Bomby.JPG]
>>
>> Many thanks, 
>> Jason in Vancouver BC 
>>   
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Garth]

If I ever get around to opening my Susie box and I can give a rough weight. 
It's rough because the only scale I have is a 1970's 25 pound "American 
Family" scale. It's accurate to the 1/2 or 1/4 pound at least. The UPS box 
is rounded off to 15 pounds though, so if someone has a 59cm. Susie box 
with packaging they could weigh it and subtract from 15 for an even rougher 
estimate. My frame inside is plus only the stock headset.  

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:51:32 PM UTC-4 dougP wrote:

> I don't recall Rivendell ever quoting weights, other than a comment that 
> the Atlantis is about a pound more than other frames (this was wayback when 
> they had fewer models).  My 58 cm Atlantis in stock Rivendell build c. 2003 
> was around 26#.  Like happens to us all, as it's aged it's gained weight.  
> Heavier rims & tires, racks, dirt, ???.  Last time I weighed it was right 
> at 30 lbs.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:25:55 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:
>
>>
>> I can’t imagine someone who wanted a certain Rivendell bike turning it 
>> down because another model weighed a pound less.
>>
>> I’m just interested in what  design choices have what results.  Like the 
>> step-throughs.  How does a Platypus (mixte) compare to a Susie (swooping 
>> top tube) compare to a Clem L (swooping top tube with brace)?  And how 
>> would these compare to a double-diamond of the same approximate fit?  The 
>> problem would be finding any way you could compare them directly.
>> But other than “only a couple of pounds heavier than carbon”, we really 
>> don’t hear much about Rivendell weights.
>>
>> For myself, I love the Sam because of fit and ride.  But I would be 
>> interested.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS These nice items need new homes

[Dave Redmon]

*Here are a few items needing new homes. Reduced prices  plus shipping;, 
which will vary from $8 to about $15 depending on your zip code.  Please 
email me off list for photos and questions* 

*$48 Handlebar MAP Ahearne alum silver 620mm x 22.4 like new VG  *


*$53 Microshift BS-T10 bar-end shifters for 10 speed cassette, dual 
settings on rear shifter, crimson on black on silver, set of 2. Like new  *

* $54 Tubus Tara front rack black with full mounting kit for forks without 
threaded holes VG *

*$14 Tektro RL 520 silver brake levers for 23.8 handlebars, with brake 
cables VG*

*$15 Dimension threadless stem, silver, 26mm x 100mm x 35 degrees VG *

*$15 Profile threadless stem adaptor, silver 130mm long, for 1 1/8” steerer 
VG*

*$10 SHIMANO vintage bar-con shifter, friction (not indexed)  black rubber 
lever cover, smooth with all hardware intact, looks and moves like Suntour 
vintage bar-cons. I used it to move a front derailer VG* 

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Peter Adler]

That's interesting, and raises the question of whether their customer 
support might be relied on for other things.

I own many Park tools (spanners, hex drivers, spoke wrenches etc), but only 
a few with moving parts: The PAW-12 crescent wrench, the CCP-2 dual 22mm 
(Campy/Shimano)/23mm (TA) square-taper crank extractor, and my bête noire, 
the CN-10 cable/housing cutter.

I bought this cutter brand-spanking new, and it's been terrible from day 
one. When the pivot bolt is tightened, it's too tight to close for the cut; 
when you loosen it enough for smooth travel, it leaves a ragged edge on the 
housing and pulls threads out of cables. There's no middle ground; there 
should obviously be some sort of thin Teflon washer (or even brass) between 
the two arms of the cutter, so that you get smooth travel but the arms are 
close enough for a clean cut. To me, this seems like a fatal design flaw. 
For decades, Felco and VAR have made cable cutters that work, and I've 
heard good things about Shimano's cutters; why would a brand that makes 
premium products design cutters with so much friction in the system that it 
doesn't perform the function for which it's designed?

I've never just thrown it out. I just stick it/throw it back into my 
toolbox, take it out forgetfully every six months to cut a housing, make a 
ghastly mess of the job, and get mad all over again. It's never occurred to 
me to phone Park and complain about the fact that their expensive cutter 
doesn't work at all.

Peter "ten times bit, not shy enough" Adler
Berkeley, CA/USA
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 12:06:45 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote wrote:

> I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
> time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
> they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
> service in my book.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
> PA wrote:
>
>> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
>> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
>> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
>> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
>> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
>> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
>> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
>> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
>> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
>> bucks.
>>
>> [image: Park1.jpg]
>>
>> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
>> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
>> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>>
>> Marty
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Patrick Moore]

I can vouch for the suppleness and fast-rolling quality of the 1.8" RH
Naches Pass tire, in the "normal" as well as the "EL" versions. In my
experience, they give up little, perhaps nothing, to the sublime rolling
quality of the ultra light, 175-gram RH Elk Pass.

But I doubt whether even the best tire will make a dead bike feel alive. I
used the Elk Pass on my erstwhile 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv custom, then used
the same wheels and tires on the replacement Matthews frame. The Curt just
felt sluggish* in a way that the Matthews does not, and I was immediately
struck, on first riding it, how "easier to pedal" the latter is when, say,
coming to an incline or turning into a headwind -- all this especially
noticeable because on a fixed gear one cannot gear down.

*Relatively speaking, that is, compared to, say, the 1999 Joe Starck custom
(also shod with the Elk Pass) and to other frames built of less robust
tubing. The 2003 wasn't *horrible,* just noticeably "non-optimum."

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 10:06 AM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Jan Heine sells 26"x 1.8" supple tires by Panaracer.  perhaps a $72
> investment would 'soften up' your ride to the maximum extent possible. If
> still too harsh, a new flexible frame would be the next step.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Christopher Cote]

I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
service in my book.

Chris


On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
wrote:

> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
> bucks.
>
> [image: Park1.jpg]
>
> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>
> Marty
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[dougP]

I don't recall Rivendell ever quoting weights, other than a comment that 
the Atlantis is about a pound more than other frames (this was wayback when 
they had fewer models).  My 58 cm Atlantis in stock Rivendell build c. 2003 
was around 26#.  Like happens to us all, as it's aged it's gained weight.  
Heavier rims & tires, racks, dirt, ???.  Last time I weighed it was right 
at 30 lbs.  

dougP

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:25:55 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

>
> I can’t imagine someone who wanted a certain Rivendell bike turning it 
> down because another model weighed a pound less.
>
> I’m just interested in what  design choices have what results.  Like the 
> step-throughs.  How does a Platypus (mixte) compare to a Susie (swooping 
> top tube) compare to a Clem L (swooping top tube with brace)?  And how 
> would these compare to a double-diamond of the same approximate fit?  The 
> problem would be finding any way you could compare them directly.
> But other than “only a couple of pounds heavier than carbon”, we really 
> don’t hear much about Rivendell weights.
>
> For myself, I love the Sam because of fit and ride.  But I would be 
> interested.
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[aeroperf]

I can’t imagine someone who wanted a certain Rivendell bike turning it down 
because another model weighed a pound less.

I’m just interested in what  design choices have what results.  Like the 
step-throughs.  How does a Platypus (mixte) compare to a Susie (swooping 
top tube) compare to a Clem L (swooping top tube with brace)?  And how 
would these compare to a double-diamond of the same approximate fit?  The 
problem would be finding any way you could compare them directly.
But other than “only a couple of pounds heavier than carbon”, we really 
don’t hear much about Rivendell weights.

For myself, I love the Sam because of fit and ride.  But I would be 
interested.

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Bill Lindsay]

Did you buy one and you want to know what it will weigh when you get it?  
Or, do you want to know what it weighs as you ponder whether or not to buy 
one?  Are you planning a minimalist light weight build?  I've contemplated 
a super light build for a Riv Step Through for many years.  That would be 
swank!  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 7:11:35 AM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Any ideas what the Platypus frameset will weigh? Yes, I know it's a 
> weight-weenie question & the Riv-Mafia will be all over me for it but I'm 
> just interested. I thought it was mentioned somewhere on their website but 
> I can't find it.

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Clark Fitzgerald]

Kai- A "TIG lug"- cool idea. The poor man's bilaminate frame :)

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 9:15 AM Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY <
kaiviers...@gmail.com> wrote:

> As your framebuilder said, probably best left alone. But, as an amateur
> brazer, I'd solve the "problem" by cutting the tubes a bit less, leaving
> nubs to use as lugs for a tube with a outside diameter that matches the
> inside diameter of the existing toptube. This wouldn't get you down to 1',
> but it would be relatively easy and avoids welding the headtube with TIG
> level heat, just a little low temp silver filler. I'd love to hear why this
> might be a bad idea from those more knowledgeable.
> -Kai
>
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:33:29 AM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>> I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to
>> say:
>>
>> This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG
>> welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat
>> tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG
>> welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the
>> tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in
>> another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to
>> "liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a
>> huge role.
>>
>> I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride
>>> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top
>>> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>>>
>>> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution
>>> ,
>>> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter
>>> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the
>>> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've
>>> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube
>>> 
>>> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding
>>> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I
>>> don't use it for singletrack.
>>>
>>> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it
>>> myself on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old
>>> tube, grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem
>>> doable, with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual
>>> welding or brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/F2Xb1h39K4w/unsubscribe
>>> .
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>>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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[RBW] In Praise of Park Tools

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
bucks.

[image: Park1.jpg]

Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant about 
it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. Kudos to 
Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.

Marty

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Christopher Cote]

This reminds me of a, possibly apocryphal, story about a major motorcycle 
manufacturer that was testing a new motocross bike. The test rider 
complained that it didn't turn in well, and one of the engineers grabbed a 
cordless drill and drilled a hole in the frame behind the headtube. After a 
few more laps, the test rider proclaimed the handling issues fixed.

I don't advocate drilling holes in your frame, but like John said, good 
tires will make a huge difference in how the bike rides.

Chris


On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:33:29 AM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to 
> say:
>
> This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG 
> welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat 
> tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG 
> welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the 
> tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in 
> another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to 
> "liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a 
> huge role.
>
> I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.
>
> On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald  
> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride 
>> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top 
>> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>>
>> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution 
>> ,
>>  
>> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter 
>> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the 
>> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've 
>> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>>
>> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube 
>> 
>>  
>> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding 
>> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I 
>> don't use it for singletrack.
>>
>> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it 
>> myself on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old 
>> tube, grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem 
>> doable, with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual 
>> welding or brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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[RBW] Re: Intro from Pittsburgh

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks for the Pittsburgh post.  Born and raised in Mt Oliver,  but been 
away for a longer time, but always enjoy Pittsburgh.

I always thought a ride down to Coraopolois and then riding the Montour 
trail would be nice.  Coraopolis can be reached via Wabash/Sheridan to the 
Rocks, and then Neville Island to avoid West Carson (or most of it via 
Station Square) and Rt51.  There maybe a bike path on the North Side, but 
you would have to cross the river at the high level bridge, which may not 
be great on a bike.   Or take a bus!!

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

  

On Monday, March 8, 2021 at 4:12:27 PM UTC-5 joshuamarx wrote:

> Hello!
> I've been spending time on this group for years, for inspiration and 
> information, and for general entertainment. It's high time I join the group 
> properly so I can contribute every once in a while.
>
> I'm a proud owner of a 60cm 1st gen (I think) Cheviot, and a 59 cm MIT 
> Atlantis--one of the demo completes that Riv sold a while back. Links to 
> pictures are below (crossing my fingers that they come through properly). 
>
> Pre-COVID, 99% of my riding was commuting (downtown Pittsburgh) and errand 
> running. The non-commuting of COVID has really cut into my bike time--I may 
> need to figure out how to work recreational rides into my life this spring!
> Best,
> Josh
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N8pdNanpBNGSY7fOQjHTdaXfIaXPgwP7/view?usp=sharing
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eghSVYdTjSB2zc3nzY9X8cz8dgQvIbLl/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

As your framebuilder said, probably best left alone. But, as an amateur 
brazer, I'd solve the "problem" by cutting the tubes a bit less, leaving 
nubs to use as lugs for a tube with a outside diameter that matches the 
inside diameter of the existing toptube. This wouldn't get you down to 1', 
but it would be relatively easy and avoids welding the headtube with TIG 
level heat, just a little low temp silver filler. I'd love to hear why this 
might be a bad idea from those more knowledgeable.
-Kai 

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:33:29 AM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to 
> say:
>
> This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG 
> welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat 
> tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG 
> welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the 
> tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in 
> another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to 
> "liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a 
> huge role.
>
> I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.
>
> On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald  
> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride 
>> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top 
>> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>>
>> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution 
>> ,
>>  
>> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter 
>> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the 
>> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've 
>> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>>
>> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube 
>> 
>>  
>> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding 
>> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I 
>> don't use it for singletrack.
>>
>> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it 
>> myself on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old 
>> tube, grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem 
>> doable, with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual 
>> welding or brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>>
>> -- 
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>> .
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[Linda G]

A 50 cm Roadini frame and fork with installed bottom bracket and headset 
weighs 7 pounds, 12 oz. Subtracting weights for bottom bracket and headset 
I believe that Rivendell used, found on the internet: 6 pounds, 12.5 oz. 
Complete bike with no extras except bottle cage: 22 pounds, 9 ozs. This is 
with Velocity A-23 race wheels, White Industries crank. That's about as 
heavy a bike as I want to propel and lift around.
Linda

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 8:20:08 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

> I would be interested to find out what ANY of the Riv frame sets weigh.  
> My only data point is for a 2014 55 Sam, built up with fenders, bell, and 
> rear rack - 30.5 pounds.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Jan Heine sells 26"x 1.8" supple tires by Panaracer.  perhaps a $72 
investment would 'soften up' your ride to the maximum extent possible. If 
still too harsh, a new flexible frame would be the next step.

I agree with the Tig welding affecting the head and seat tube integrity if 
welded a 2nd time (the welds 'heat affected zone').  Your builder was 
knowledgeable to point this out.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:33:29 AM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to 
> say:
>
> This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG 
> welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat 
> tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG 
> welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the 
> tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in 
> another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to 
> "liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a 
> huge role.
>
> I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.
>
> On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald  
> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride 
>> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top 
>> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>>
>> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution 
>> ,
>>  
>> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter 
>> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the 
>> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've 
>> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>>
>> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube 
>> 
>>  
>> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding 
>> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I 
>> don't use it for singletrack.
>>
>> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it 
>> myself on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old 
>> tube, grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem 
>> doable, with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual 
>> welding or brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/F2Xb1h39K4w/unsubscribe
>> .
>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c77684e6-f964-429a-bd40-6c09bd7eb440n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: replace top tube to improve ride

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Dont know anyone who did it, but some considerations:

If the frame is Tig welded, you may have hard time with a 1" TT, just from 
a fabrication aspect. 

Also, Tig welding in the 90's generally used tubing with a larger wall 
thickness for margin of safety.

If a lugged frame, then the cost should be the same as replacing a broken 
TT with repainting the frame.

If the TT was oversized (OS) tubing, the DT is likely to be be OS (1-1/4" 
vs 1-1/8").Again, the DT maybe a thicker tube also.
Jan Heine's Mule tubeset uses a 7-5-7 OS DT with a 7-4-7 1" TT with 
reportedly decent flex (the 7-5-7 DT would be similar to a 9-7-9 1-1/8" 
DT).   Would suspect your DT is thicker than 0.5mm, but perhaps keeping the 
ratios of TT to DT the same would produce similar results or at least get 
you in the ballpark.  

The TT wall thickness is also a consideration.   A 1-1/8" tube is about 30% 
stiffer than a 1" tube of the same wall thickness (due to difference in 
OD).   So 1" TT should add flex to the frame, if the same wall thickness is 
used.  T A thinner 1" TT would add more flex.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 6:02:34 PM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride 
> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top 
> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>
> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution 
> ,
>  
> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter 
> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the 
> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've 
> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>
> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube 
> 
>  
> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding 
> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I 
> don't use it for singletrack.
>
> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it myself 
> on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old tube, 
> grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem doable, 
> with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual welding or 
> brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Clark Fitzgerald]

I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to
say:

This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG
welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat
tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG
welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the
tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in
another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to
"liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a
huge role.

I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.

On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald 
wrote:

> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride
> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top
> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>
> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution
> ,
> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter
> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the
> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've
> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>
> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube
> 
> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding
> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I
> don't use it for singletrack.
>
> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it myself
> on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old tube,
> grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem doable,
> with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual welding or
> brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Weight?

[aeroperf]

I would be interested to find out what ANY of the Riv frame sets weigh.  My 
only data point is for a 2014 55 Sam, built up with fenders, bell, and rear 
rack - 30.5 pounds.

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Brand New Nitto RM-3 Drop Bars

[Brian Carbajal]

25.4mm

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:05 AM, Max S  wrote:
> 
> What's the clamp diameter spec on this version?.. 
> 
> - Max "dirt that droppy bar" in A2
> 
>> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:13:21 AM UTC-4 bria...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hey Philip,
>> 
>> let me know if you want to pick it up. As you know, they're great bars. just 
>> gotta divert these funds to break even on this canceled build i was working 
>> on 
>> 
>> 
>> thanks 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Mar 20, 2021, at 9:04 PM, Philip Williamson  
 wrote:
 
>>> That’s a good bar and a good price.
>> 
>>> I’m tempted, but trying not to hoard or swoop on the good deals.
>>> There are two of them in my bike setup survey here: 
>>> https://www.instagram.com/p/CMno5xNBI60/?igshid=uz3s7r4nde5g, but the OG 
>>> WTB bar is exactly the same, and the the Midge bar is very similar. 
>>> 
>>> Philip
>>> Santa Rosa, CA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 1:08:27 PM UTC-7 bria...@gmail.com wrote:
> $78 shipped OBO. CONUS only. 
> 
> Payment via Paypal friends and family (or add the fee).
> 
> Pic: https://imgur.com/3RfKs6p
 
>>> -- 
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>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
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[RBW] Platypus Weight?

[Philip Barrett]

Any ideas what the Platypus frameset will weigh? Yes, I know it's a 
weight-weenie question & the Riv-Mafia will be all over me for it but I'm 
just interested. I thought it was mentioned somewhere on their website but 
I can't find it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Brand New Nitto RM-3 Drop Bars

[Max S]

What's the clamp diameter spec on this version?.. 

- Max "dirt that droppy bar" in A2

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:13:21 AM UTC-4 bria...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Philip,
>
> let me know if you want to pick it up. As you know, they're great bars. 
> just gotta divert these funds to break even on this canceled build i was 
> working on 
>
>
> thanks 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 20, 2021, at 9:04 PM, Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
>
> That’s a good bar and a good price.
>
> I’m tempted, but trying not to hoard or swoop on the good deals.
> There are two of them in my bike setup survey here: 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CMno5xNBI60/?igshid=uz3s7r4nde5g, but the OG 
> WTB bar is exactly the same, and the the Midge bar is very similar. 
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 1:08:27 PM UTC-7 bria...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> $78 shipped OBO. CONUS only. 
>>
>> Payment via Paypal friends and family (or add the fee).
>>
>> Pic: https://imgur.com/3RfKs6p
>>
> -- 
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> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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