Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

Photos of Cheviot, Charlie, Sam Hillborne, Rosco Baby Bike, Gus, a Homer 
.

I've ridden a 60cm Cheviot (my first Riv) for over 5 years and the 57cm 
Charlie prototype for just over a year and around 1,750 miles of commuting, 
hills around Napa, and occasional dirt bits of single and double track. 
I'll be taking my Rosco Baby bike out to Nevada City for some mountain 
biking this weekend though that's normally has the tamer child carting work 
it's built for. My PBH is 84.5cm and I'm 6'0", around 230lbs.

My Cheviot and Charlie are setup with the same drive train almost: 46/30 
double in front and 11-40 9 or 10 speed cassette in back with friction 
shifting and clutch derailers (GRX rx810 on the Charlie, SRAM GX long on 
the Cheviot). *I should write a whole post about the wonderful discovery of 
the GRX RX810, it's what every bike I've ever had was missing for a rock 
solid drivetrain. *

I've ridden a Sam Hillborne for maybe 3 years too - but the Charlie is 
replacing it (watch for a double top tube 56cm Hillborne to be for sale 
soon). Though they're not the same (the Charlie is longer, swoopier, and 
flexier) the Cheviot is setup to for mostly commuting while the Sam was my 
bike for longer, sometimes faster rides. I mostly had it with drop bars but 
received it with Boscos and ultimately switched to Mustache bars.
 
*The Cheviot and Charlie don't cross over in some important way, but to 
start with the similarities:*
1. Mine are both orange. Just the luck of the draw.
2. They're both long ... nearly the same length surprisingly. This makes 
for a smoothed out ride I really enjoy.
3. They both feel best with upright bars - drop bars on the Charlie were 
good and comfy like on the Sam, but the Charlie is just more comfortable 
with more upright bars and I wouldn't say that about the Sam. 
4. They'll both have sidepull brakes - this is a downside for me as I want 
for the stopping power of v-brakes and only the mighty Proto-Charlie has 
them ... and the Platypus!


*But Charlie and the Chev are different in important ways for me:*a. Need 
Charlie's v-brakes, just a personal thing. The Cheviot's sidepull r559 with 
salmon or gray (e-bike) Koolstop or Yokozuna pads are great, but not enough 
for the steep downhills of dirt I want the Cheviot to be able to take on a 
whim. They fall just short, same for my Sam (though since then others have 
come with canti-posts). 
b. Charlie flexes a bit as you take off with all your might! It's a pretty 
quick road bike and it feels great over long stretches. The Cheviot (and a 
friend's platypus I rode) are both a bit more sturdy - in fact they'd bee 
more trustworthy on more mountain bike single track than the Charlie just 
based on feel. The Cheviot or Platypus (or best of all as it's more 
affordable but less swoopy, the Rosco-Plat) are more better for bigger 
tires (the Cheviot and Charlie top out of 50mm fenderless, but the Platypus 
can take more, about 56cm / 2.2" according to Riv). That said, since my 
Cheviot is setup with 42mm Basketball tires and fenders, while the Charlie 
is set with 44mm Snoqualmie pass (and until recently, 50mm Schwalbe g-one 
All-round) tires and it more likely to see a long stretch of gravel than 
the Cheviot. If one would become more dedicated to mountain bike rides I'd 
pick the Cheviot though. of Cherlie
c. Cheviot is a huge Cadillac sedan, a yacht of a bike with creature 
comforts and fun for s240 with a basket and rear rack. Charlie is my ideal 
"country bike" that looks for gravel and dirt stretches or eats up comfy 
miles and fun speed, while the long chain stays still give a super smooth 
ride. 

Platypus has the rearward swoop like Charlie's top tube, and v-brakes like 
our Proto-Charlies ... makes a very tempting bike, great colors too. 
Rosco-Plat saves some couple hundred dollarydoos but loses the swoop.
Charlie has side pull brakes which are great for many but not me, otherwise 
it's nearly my ideal country bike. I'd only like to have the option for up 
to 55mm tires, otherwise it's perfect. That said, I just switched from 
max'd out 50mm knobbie tires to 44mm smooth tread tires so maybe I just 
want what I can't have. 

"I do find Charlie's lines more fetching."
I'd call plat vs. charlie styling a wash (because they're both great), but 
if you like top tube swoop it's gotta be Charlie. The Cheviot has a more 
straight link look, but's it's classy in a similar way but different style. 
I understand the production Charlie may have slightly less swoop though, 
perhaps someone knows better though. As is, the swoop in the top tube is 
great for dismounting while still rolling by kicking a leg over the top 
tube.

"I'll be building the bike up for riding predominantly on smooth surfaces - 
paved roads and hard packed rail trails. Also thinking full fenders over 38 
or 40 mm tires - 700c or 650b. Bars maybe a cm above the seat (with 
flexibility to raise them more if needed in the future). It will 

Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Steve]

Thanks Piaw - I appreciate the input. I may have to add the Cheviot to my
watch list. When I began seriously looking at Rivendells I was thinking a
Roadini - but then gravitated toward the sloping TT models - especially the
curvier ones - out of a desire for something a bit different  from my
current (& previous) bikes.

BTW, after checking your "mountain biking" pic, I have to say, you're crazy
(in the best way).

On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 9:07 PM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:

> I test rode a Charlie with sidepull brakes last year when my Ti touring
> frame broke and Grant loaned it to me for a week. It rides very similarly
> to the Cheviot (which is the sidepull version of the Platypus), so in terms
> of riding I think it can do anything the Platypus can do. The bike Grant
> lent me had swept back bars, and I rode it on and off road and with the
> 42mm tires it felt very plush.
>
> It is probably overkill for day riding on smooth roads and light credit
> card touring, but I probably like underbiking more than most. For instance,
> I would consider the Roadini with 32mm tires a bit overkill for a 3 week
> tour of the alps -- the bigger tires slow steering enough to reduce my
> enjoyment of the descents.  My bike in this picture (
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/QQeP7phjn8wkscLG6) had 25mm tires, and I was
> happy to ride it on that trail. (and yes, maybe that's why my touring bikes
> break)
>
> On the other hand, it's the kind of bike I wouldn't hesitate to ride down
> what others would call mountain biking trails that require suspension, so
> it could very well invite you to do more than you think you can. Before my
> wife acquired her mountain bike, I put 1.75mm tires on her Cheviot and she
> treated it like a mountain bike. I will note that after she acquired a dual
> suspension MTB she said she didn't know how she got by riding the Cheviot
> down those trails I was taking her and the kids on.
>
> On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 5:53 PM Steve  wrote:
>
>> A question for any Proto Charlie riders who may also have some experience
>> with the Platy.
>>
>> I'm honing in on my FIRST Riv and have.narrowed  the field to the
>> Platypus vs the upcoming Charlie H.
>> I recognize that the Platy frameset (either brazed or lugged) is a step
>> above the TIG'd  Charlie, and that the latter is destined for side pull
>> brakes. Having said that, I do find Charlie's lines more fetching.
>>
>> I'll be building the bike up for riding predominantly on smooth surfaces
>> - paved roads and hard packed rail trails. Also thinking full fenders over
>> 38 or 40 mm tires - 700c or 650b. Bars maybe a cm above the seat (with
>> flexibility to raise them more if needed in the future). It will be mostly
>> a day rider but could see some light "credit card" touring. I'll probably
>> want to mount a rando style front  rack and run a wide range 2x9.
>>
>> Me; 165lbs, PBH 81cm, seat height ~ 68.5 cm
>>
>> Opinions? I'd love to hear from anyone who knows these two models. Thanks!
>> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> @ Brendonoid: Wondering if you could not try Centerpulls on your Sam?
>>> They can be mighty effective. You could always braze on posts (I have done
>>> this on my Sam for the record) if the Centerpulls don't do it for you.
>>>
>>> John
>>> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 6:31:28 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
 I was 100% buying a Charlie until the brake change now I am 95% not
 going to buy one. I have never had a problem with R559s and have used them
 on quite a few bikes but their clearance limitations are the real problem.
 Wet weather downhill performance can be weak but it isn't a deal breaker. I
 want big slicks on a road bike and the Charlie was going to be that bike
 for me. Oh well.

 Thinking more and more about welding canti posts onto my old sidepull
 Sam instead though...

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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Joe Bernard]

I'd be freaking, too, but in the end Grant's right, the paint is a cover 
for the tubes. I saw pics of my Nobilette-built before paint and that's the 
frame. We can repaint them someday! 

On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 7:16:50 PM UTC-7 Robert Tilley wrote:

> I’d still be in therapy if that happened to me.
>
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 15, 2023, at 3:16 PM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> In the winter of 2011, I bought a Mark-Nobilette-built Legolas. It was 
> serious overlap with my 2001 custom Riv Road and 2005 Quickbeam. I 
> justified it as my mixed-surface, foul-weather, fine-riding bike. I built 
> it up during that winter with pleasing-to-me parts including a Ritchey 
> Logic crank and a Shimergo drive train (Campy 11-spd Chorus brifters mated 
> to Shimano 9 speed XT derailers (12-36 to 34/46 gearing)). My very first 
> ride, I took it out to the nearby irrigation ditch to snap a photo with 
> some mountains in the background. I leaned it up against a concrete 
> irrigation valve and before I could snap a pic my sparkling new Legolas 
> slid down the edge of the concrete and into the ditch. The top tube 
> scratches were horrible. But those scratches freed me and the Legolas. I've 
> ridden it plenty on paved roads in nice weather, but also without 
> hesitation in gravel, snow, mud mixed with cow scat, thunderstorms with 
> small hail. Big scratches for vanity instead of adventure was quite 
> upsetting, but it has worked out for me and this fine bike. 
>
> Joe in GJT CO
>
> -- 
>
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>
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/ae63ef15-459b-42ca-a577-791dd63c56e5n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[rltilley]

I’d still be in therapy if that happened to me.Robert TilleySan Diego, CASent from my iPhoneOn Jun 15, 2023, at 3:16 PM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:In the winter of 2011, I bought a Mark-Nobilette-built Legolas. It was serious overlap with my 2001 custom Riv Road and 2005 Quickbeam. I justified it as my mixed-surface, foul-weather, fine-riding bike. I built it up during that winter with pleasing-to-me parts including a Ritchey Logic crank and a Shimergo drive train (Campy 11-spd Chorus brifters mated to Shimano 9 speed XT derailers (12-36 to 34/46 gearing)). My very first ride, I took it out to the nearby irrigation ditch to snap a photo with some mountains in the background. I leaned it up against a concrete irrigation valve and before I could snap a pic my sparkling new Legolas slid down the edge of the concrete and into the ditch. The top tube scratches were horrible. But those scratches freed me and the Legolas. I've ridden it plenty on paved roads in nice weather, but also without hesitation in gravel, snow, mud mixed with cow scat, thunderstorms with small hail. Big scratches for vanity instead of adventure was quite upsetting, but it has worked out for me and this fine bike. Joe in GJT CO



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Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Leah Peterson]

Gut-wrenching. But also beautifully said. I can almost hear the scraping of metal on concrete and it makes me a little weak.“But those scratches freed me and the Legolas.” I’m going to be thinking about this tonight. It applies to more than just bikes…LeahOn Jun 15, 2023, at 6:16 PM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:In the winter of 2011, I bought a Mark-Nobilette-built Legolas. It was serious overlap with my 2001 custom Riv Road and 2005 Quickbeam. I justified it as my mixed-surface, foul-weather, fine-riding bike. I built it up during that winter with pleasing-to-me parts including a Ritchey Logic crank and a Shimergo drive train (Campy 11-spd Chorus brifters mated to Shimano 9 speed XT derailers (12-36 to 34/46 gearing)). My very first ride, I took it out to the nearby irrigation ditch to snap a photo with some mountains in the background. I leaned it up against a concrete irrigation valve and before I could snap a pic my sparkling new Legolas slid down the edge of the concrete and into the ditch. The top tube scratches were horrible. But those scratches freed me and the Legolas. I've ridden it plenty on paved roads in nice weather, but also without hesitation in gravel, snow, mud mixed with cow scat, thunderstorms with small hail. Big scratches for vanity instead of adventure was quite upsetting, but it has worked out for me and this fine bike. Joe in GJT CO



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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[藍俊彪]

I test rode a Charlie with sidepull brakes last year when my Ti touring
frame broke and Grant loaned it to me for a week. It rides very similarly
to the Cheviot (which is the sidepull version of the Platypus), so in terms
of riding I think it can do anything the Platypus can do. The bike Grant
lent me had swept back bars, and I rode it on and off road and with the
42mm tires it felt very plush.

It is probably overkill for day riding on smooth roads and light credit
card touring, but I probably like underbiking more than most. For instance,
I would consider the Roadini with 32mm tires a bit overkill for a 3 week
tour of the alps -- the bigger tires slow steering enough to reduce my
enjoyment of the descents.  My bike in this picture (
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QQeP7phjn8wkscLG6) had 25mm tires, and I was
happy to ride it on that trail. (and yes, maybe that's why my touring bikes
break)

On the other hand, it's the kind of bike I wouldn't hesitate to ride down
what others would call mountain biking trails that require suspension, so
it could very well invite you to do more than you think you can. Before my
wife acquired her mountain bike, I put 1.75mm tires on her Cheviot and she
treated it like a mountain bike. I will note that after she acquired a dual
suspension MTB she said she didn't know how she got by riding the Cheviot
down those trails I was taking her and the kids on.

On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 5:53 PM Steve  wrote:

> A question for any Proto Charlie riders who may also have some experience
> with the Platy.
>
> I'm honing in on my FIRST Riv and have.narrowed  the field to the Platypus
> vs the upcoming Charlie H.
> I recognize that the Platy frameset (either brazed or lugged) is a step
> above the TIG'd  Charlie, and that the latter is destined for side pull
> brakes. Having said that, I do find Charlie's lines more fetching.
>
> I'll be building the bike up for riding predominantly on smooth surfaces -
> paved roads and hard packed rail trails. Also thinking full fenders over 38
> or 40 mm tires - 700c or 650b. Bars maybe a cm above the seat (with
> flexibility to raise them more if needed in the future). It will be mostly
> a day rider but could see some light "credit card" touring. I'll probably
> want to mount a rando style front  rack and run a wide range 2x9.
>
> Me; 165lbs, PBH 81cm, seat height ~ 68.5 cm
>
> Opinions? I'd love to hear from anyone who knows these two models. Thanks!
> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> @ Brendonoid: Wondering if you could not try Centerpulls on your Sam?
>> They can be mighty effective. You could always braze on posts (I have done
>> this on my Sam for the record) if the Centerpulls don't do it for you.
>>
>> John
>> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 6:31:28 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> I was 100% buying a Charlie until the brake change now I am 95% not
>>> going to buy one. I have never had a problem with R559s and have used them
>>> on quite a few bikes but their clearance limitations are the real problem.
>>> Wet weather downhill performance can be weak but it isn't a deal breaker. I
>>> want big slicks on a road bike and the Charlie was going to be that bike
>>> for me. Oh well.
>>>
>>> Thinking more and more about welding canti posts onto my old sidepull
>>> Sam instead though...
>>>
>> --
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Steve]

A question for any Proto Charlie riders who may also have some experience 
with the Platy.

I'm honing in on my FIRST Riv and have.narrowed  the field to the Platypus 
vs the upcoming Charlie H.
I recognize that the Platy frameset (either brazed or lugged) is a step 
above the TIG'd  Charlie, and that the latter is destined for side pull 
brakes. Having said that, I do find Charlie's lines more fetching.

I'll be building the bike up for riding predominantly on smooth surfaces - 
paved roads and hard packed rail trails. Also thinking full fenders over 38 
or 40 mm tires - 700c or 650b. Bars maybe a cm above the seat (with 
flexibility to raise them more if needed in the future). It will be mostly 
a day rider but could see some light "credit card" touring. I'll probably 
want to mount a rando style front  rack and run a wide range 2x9.

Me; 165lbs, PBH 81cm, seat height ~ 68.5 cm

Opinions? I'd love to hear from anyone who knows these two models. Thanks!
On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:

> @ Brendonoid: Wondering if you could not try Centerpulls on your Sam? They 
> can be mighty effective. You could always braze on posts (I have done this 
> on my Sam for the record) if the Centerpulls don't do it for you.
>
> John
> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 6:31:28 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> I was 100% buying a Charlie until the brake change now I am 95% not going 
>> to buy one. I have never had a problem with R559s and have used them on 
>> quite a few bikes but their clearance limitations are the real problem. Wet 
>> weather downhill performance can be weak but it isn't a deal breaker. I 
>> want big slicks on a road bike and the Charlie was going to be that bike 
>> for me. Oh well.
>>
>> Thinking more and more about welding canti posts onto my old sidepull Sam 
>> instead though...
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 58cm MUSA Atlantis f/f/hs, 55cm Crust Lightning Bolt f/f/hs, and various parts

[Erik from Saint Paul]

*Update:*

Everything is sold, aside from the Crust Lightning Bolt frameset.

On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 5:06:27 PM UTC-5 Erik from Saint Paul wrote:

> *Update:*
>
> Both frames are still available, but there has been some serious interest 
> in the Atlantis.
>
>
> Other parts for sale:
>
> Nitto mustache bars *sold*
>
> Tektro drop bar brake levers (short pull): *sold*
>
> Velo Orange quill stem 31.8 clamp, 90mm: *sold*
>
> Velo Orange quill stem 31.8 clamp, 80mm (new): *sold*
>
> Velo Orange treadless stem 31.8 clam, 110mm: *sold*
>
> Velo Orange treadless stem 31.8 clam, 80mm: *sold*
>
> Handsome Cycles quill stem 25.4 clamp, 80mm: *sold*
>
> Sram Rival left double shifter: *sold*
>
> Sram Rival front and rear derailleurs: *sold*
>
> Dia Compe ratcheting downtube shifter: *pending*
>
> Tektro Oryx cantilever brakes front and rear: $30
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 13, 2023 at 10:03:59 PM UTC-5 Erik from Saint Paul wrote:
>
>> Not very active on this forum, but figured this would be the best place 
>> to list first.
>> Looking to sell my 58cm Waterford built Atlantis. I bought it in 2018 
>> from Rivendell for $2400. It was originally built for someone else, but the 
>> water bottle bosses on the seat tube were a bit off kilter, so it was sold 
>> for a slight discount. Never had any issues with mounting a bottle cage and 
>> nothing ever got in the way. Frame is in really good shape overall, but 
>> there are a few cosmetic issues like minor scratches, some paint peeling 
>> around fender and rack bosses, and a slight paint bulge where the front 
>> derailleur was mounted. It's been a great bike, but I just don't ride it as 
>> often as other bikes I have, so I think it's best to let it go. Located in 
>> the Minneapolis/St Paul area and will meet up within the metro area if 
>> interested.
>> Color: British racing green
>> Wheel size: 700c
>> Headset: Chris King
>> Seatpost: 26.8mm, Kalloy Uno (included with sale)
>> Brake cable hangers: Nitto front and rear (included with sale)
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1oxlevH9kCvQy_amBUuEsh6Vjo8qQ3VIV?usp=share_link
>>
>> Asking $1800 + actual shipping cost.
>> Also have a set of Velocity Dyad rims laced to Shimano LX hubs that I'll 
>> throw in for an extra $150 if you're interested.
>>
>>
>> 55cm Crust Lightning Bolt Frameset with Campagnolo Record Headset. Frame 
>> is in very good condition with a minor scratch and scuff here and there. 
>> Fits 650b x 42mm tires under fenders just fine. 
>> Asking $750 + actual shipping cost.
>>
>>
>> Other parts for sale:
>>
>> Nitto mustache bars $20
>>
>> Tektro drop bar brake levers (short pull): $15
>>
>> Velo Orange quill stem 31.8 clamp, 90mm: $20
>>
>> Velo Orange quill stem 31.8 clamp, 80mm (new): $30
>>
>> Velo Orange treadless stem 31.8 clam, 110mm: $20
>>
>> Velo Orange treadless stem 31.8 clam, 80mm: $20
>>
>> Handsome Cycles quill stem 25.4 clamp, 80mm: $10
>>
>> Sram Rival left double shifter: $25
>>
>> Sram Rival front and rear derailleurs: $50
>>
>> Dia Compe ratcheting downtube shifter: $30
>>
>> Tektro Oryx cantilever brakes front and rear: $30
>>
>> Shipping not included in list price of parts.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: White Industries, Suntour, XTR

[Michael Ullmer]

Only the barcons remain

On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 8:56:22 PM UTC-5 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> A few more items from the bin:
>
> 1) White Industries ENO Eccentric Hub - $100
> --32H, 135mm spacing, fixed/free
>
> 2) Suntour Barcons - $30
> --In good shape, missing one of the locking washers
>
> 3) Shimano XTR V-Brakes - $80
> --BR-M960, includes two mounting bolts and a set of travel agents for use 
> with short pull levers. No noodles
>
> Prices are net to me and don't include shipping.
>
> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/M8BshS7FSRyofQJu7
>
> Mike in Minneapolis
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Two Pairs of Unworn MUSA Khaki and Grey Knickers Sz. L

[Daniel Rooke]

Both sold.  Thanks

On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 11:16:15 AM UTC-6 Daniel Rooke wrote:

> I bought these a year ago.  I never wore them.  As far as I can tell they 
> have never been worn - still in the plastic packaging with the MUSA Card.  
> $60 each or two for $100.  Shipping would be flat rate $10 either way.
>
> More Photos can be provided
>
> Thanks
> [image: IMG_0288.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0284.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: MUSA Pants, T-Shirts, A Railroad Shirt, and a Couple Other Things

[Daniel Rooke]

A couple price reductions and also feel free to make an offer.  Here's 
what's left.  :

- One Blue Platypus T-shirt size XL - worn a few times but in good shape: 
$15
- One Navy Woolpower 400 1/4 zip sweater sz. XL: $40
- One Rivendell Railroad Stripe Shirt sz. XL - two oil stains near the MUSA 
logo but otherwise in good condition: $50
- One tig-welded Nitto Bullmoose handlebars (these are not the same as the 
filet brazed ones for sale on the Rivendell website) - never used but 
mounted in a frame: $100 + cost of shipping (will require a larger box)
On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 5:11:50 PM UTC-6 Daniel Rooke wrote:

> That’s awesome - I’m glad you like them
>
> On Jun 14, 2023, at 4:24 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Thanks for the shorts, Daniel! Package arrived today and they’re perfect!
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM Daniel Rooke  wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have the following items for sale:
>>
>>
>>- One grey Peace Wheel T-shirt size XL - new but without tags: $15
>>- One Blue Platypus T-shirt size XL - worn a few times but in good 
>>shape: $15
>>- One pair of the new Black MUSA pants size Large - worn a couple 
>>times, washed in cold water and lined dried: $90
>>- One pair of the old MUSA grey pants size L - in good used condition 
>>but there is a rip on the thigh, which is visible in the pictures - it 
>> will 
>>probably need to be repaired: $50
>>- One pair of the new Ranger Green MUSA shorts still in the packaging 
>>- size L: $75
>>- One Navy Woolpower 400 1/4 zip sweater sz. XL: $50
>>- One Rivendell Railroad Stripe Shirt sz. XL - two oil stains near 
>>the MUSA logo but otherwise in good condition: $60
>>- One tig-welded Nitto Bullmoose handlebars (these are not the same 
>>as the filet brazed ones for sale on the Rivendell website) - never used 
>>but mounted in a frame: $100 + cost of shipping (will require a larger 
>> box)
>>- One pair of 700 x 50 Soma Cazadero tires - never used: $80
>>
>>
>> Prices don’t include shipping.  Individual items can be shipped together 
>> to reduce costs. Please send a zip code and I can supply shipping 
>> information.  Any Questions or comments send me a message.  
>>
>> Pictures 
>> 
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>
> -- 
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> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: When to Replace a Helmet?

[Brian Forsee]

This is always a tough call. My opinion is if you are on the fence and the 
cost of replacing is not a large barrier for you replacing is the way to 
go. The foam on a helmet will yield when it has seen an impact past its 
design. Often times the foam will yield on the inside face (head side) of 
the foam in the form a small crack. Pressing from the outside perpendicular 
to the helmet can help to see the cracks easier. Check your helmet 
carefully for any cracks. Any crack in the foam necessitates replacement in 
my opinion. Also good to check the outside face for any deformities. If 
there are any dips or deformed spots from the impact, I would replace. 

Brian





On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 1:46:20 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> These seem like reasonable guidelines. My helmet is at least three years 
> old, I'm not super motivated to replace it yet but I would if it took a 
> knock on the ground today. 
>
>
> https://off.road.cc/content/feature/when-should-you-replace-your-bicycle-helmet-1280
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 11:25:32 AM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Back in October, I was turning onto a path via a curb cut, but I was 
>> going too fast and my front wheel slid out from under me. I scraped my hand 
>> and chin, and my knee was bruised and swollen. As I landed on my shoulder, 
>> my head flopped to the side and gently *tapped* the concrete. 
>>
>> If I hadn’t been wearing a helmet, my head would not have touched the 
>> ground. The force with which my head and helmet touched the ground felt 
>> equivalent to bumping your head on a desk as you bend down to pick up a 
>> pencil: you’re surprised, but not hurt. I didn’t lose consciousness or have 
>> neck pain, and my helmet has no visible scratches or scuffs. 
>>
>> I’ve heard and read helmets should be replaced after a crash--but what’s 
>> the degree of severity? Are there any rules-of-thumb e.g. if the helmet was 
>> scuffed from the impact, get a new helmet? The force with which my head 
>> touched the ground didn’t feel hard or severe, but is that because the 
>> helmet absorbed the impact? Do I need a new helmet?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: When to Replace a Helmet?

[Joe Bernard]

These seem like reasonable guidelines. My helmet is at least three years 
old, I'm not super motivated to replace it yet but I would if it took a 
knock on the ground today. 

https://off.road.cc/content/feature/when-should-you-replace-your-bicycle-helmet-1280

Joe Bernard 

On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 11:25:32 AM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Back in October, I was turning onto a path via a curb cut, but I was going 
> too fast and my front wheel slid out from under me. I scraped my hand and 
> chin, and my knee was bruised and swollen. As I landed on my shoulder, my 
> head flopped to the side and gently *tapped* the concrete. 
>
> If I hadn’t been wearing a helmet, my head would not have touched the 
> ground. The force with which my head and helmet touched the ground felt 
> equivalent to bumping your head on a desk as you bend down to pick up a 
> pencil: you’re surprised, but not hurt. I didn’t lose consciousness or have 
> neck pain, and my helmet has no visible scratches or scuffs.
>
> I’ve heard and read helmets should be replaced after a crash--but what’s 
> the degree of severity? Are there any rules-of-thumb e.g. if the helmet was 
> scuffed from the impact, get a new helmet? The force with which my head 
> touched the ground didn’t feel hard or severe, but is that because the 
> helmet absorbed the impact? Do I need a new helmet?

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Re: [RBW] When to Replace a Helmet?

[Brian Turner]

I’ve often wondered about this, especially every time I drop my helmet… which 
happens A LOT. So many little dents and scuff because of simply dropping it 
from 3-4 ft. Somehow, I doubt it’s compromised its safety.

- Brian

> On Jun 15, 2023, at 2:25 PM, Matthew Williams 
>  wrote:
> 
> Back in October, I was turning onto a path via a curb cut, but I was going 
> too fast and my front wheel slid out from under me. I scraped my hand and 
> chin, and my knee was bruised and swollen. As I landed on my shoulder, my 
> head flopped to the side and gently *tapped* the concrete. 
> 
> If I hadn’t been wearing a helmet, my head would not have touched the ground. 
> The force with which my head and helmet touched the ground felt equivalent to 
> bumping your head on a desk as you bend down to pick up a pencil: you’re 
> surprised, but not hurt. I didn’t lose consciousness or have neck pain, and 
> my helmet has no visible scratches or scuffs.
> 
> I’ve heard and read helmets should be replaced after a crash--but what’s the 
> degree of severity? Are there any rules-of-thumb e.g. if the helmet was 
> scuffed from the impact, get a new helmet? The force with which my head 
> touched the ground didn’t feel hard or severe, but is that because the helmet 
> absorbed the impact? Do I need a new helmet?
> 
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[RBW] When to Replace a Helmet?

[Matthew Williams]

Back in October, I was turning onto a path via a curb cut, but I was going too 
fast and my front wheel slid out from under me. I scraped my hand and chin, and 
my knee was bruised and swollen. As I landed on my shoulder, my head flopped to 
the side and gently *tapped* the concrete. 

If I hadn’t been wearing a helmet, my head would not have touched the ground. 
The force with which my head and helmet touched the ground felt equivalent to 
bumping your head on a desk as you bend down to pick up a pencil: you’re 
surprised, but not hurt. I didn’t lose consciousness or have neck pain, and my 
helmet has no visible scratches or scuffs.

I’ve heard and read helmets should be replaced after a crash--but what’s the 
degree of severity? Are there any rules-of-thumb e.g. if the helmet was scuffed 
from the impact, get a new helmet? The force with which my head touched the 
ground didn’t feel hard or severe, but is that because the helmet absorbed the 
impact? Do I need a new helmet?

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