[RBW] Re: WTB: Silver 170 triple crank

[Doug Van Cleve]

Okay, I just realized I was not specific enough…  I’m looking for an RBW
Silver brand crankset :^)

Doug


On Sat, Jun 24, 2023 at 10:21 AM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:

> A 42/28 double *might* also do the trick...
>
> Doug Van Cleve
> Chandler, AZ
>
> On Sat, Jun 24, 2023 at 10:12 AM Doug Van Cleve 
> wrote:
>
>> Howdy folks.
>>
>> Anybody holding an unwanted Silver 170mm triple crank in good condition?
>> I might buy a new one, now that they're back in stock, but I wouldn't hate
>> saving some dough either.
>>
>> On a related note, what width BB would I need for a Silver triple on a
>> Joe Appa?  The bike currently has a Sugino triple, it would be swell if the
>> same BB would work (well)...
>>
>> Thanks, Doug
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[Takashi]

Thank you Bill.
I'm looking forward to your photos of France.

Takashi

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Garth]

I don't agree at all that someone with a long torso and average length of 
legs should use a longer setback seatpost to accommodate it.* Just picture 
yourself on a bike, and suddenly your spine is elongated 6 inches. Your 
legs haven't changed at all and neither should your saddle position.* 
What's called for is a longer frame with an appropriately long stem and 
bars that aren't overly swept back as that rather defeats the goal of 
accommodating your longer torso. While Kim says "I'm comfortable", sure the 
reach is now great, but you're also notably further back of the saddle than 
you need to be. From the photos of your Clem you showed the stem isn't very 
long for someone with a long torso, and Bosco bars aren't helping either.  
If you simply added in stem length the appx. amount of extra setback from 
the post(2-3cm), then you could return to a normal setback post and you 
keep the same reach. 

>From my experience in being too far back as opposed to being in a normal 
setback position, is the onset of hamstring, back of knee and butt muscle 
pain. Not to mention feeling off center of the BB. Once I returned to a 
normal position, using my quads much more and my core muscles for support, 
all those went away and pedaling is notably more effective. What Jay 
described in adding his reach forward and using his core more effectively 
to accommodate his longer torso I can relate to. 

In my opinion sitting up and back on a bike is all wrong as you can't use 
your core muscles effectively. I get that people do it, and Riv promotes 
it, nevertheless, that's what I think of it. 

Anyone would be right to question what I speak of. I question everyone and 
myself too. Just because I don't have a bike shop or a title doesn't mean I 
don't know what I'm talking about tough, or that anyone who has a bike shop 
or a title does know what they're talking about. I've been to one 
"professional" fitter in my life, and their "advice" would have placed me 
on a frame with a much too short of top tube. I told them to add 3cm or no 
deal on the custom frame from them. I got the 3cm and I still joyfully ride 
that frame today. 

Enjoy the ride. 


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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Kim Hetzel]

Very well said, Laing. I absolutely agree with you.

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA

On Sat, Jun 24, 2023, 12:49 PM lconley  wrote:

> Then there are also those with really, really long torsos, that need a
> long stem *and* lots of setback on the seatpost; or a custom frame.
> Also remember that a Brooks saddle sometimes needs a longer setback
> seatpost to put you in the same location relative to the pedals as another
> type of saddle on a normal seatpost; no longer stem will help that.
>
> Laing
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 3:22:38 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> + another for Garth's point (and many others make it too, including PJW
>> in his very good article on bike fitting) that you first set up your saddle
>> in relation to the cranks in order to get both good "balance" (with
>> sufficient setback that your torso muscles support the torso's weight, and
>> so that this support is not left to hands and arms and shoulders), and good
>> power or torque on the pedals (too far forward and you lose power, IME --
>> Grant cured me of an all-the-way forward saddle, long story, by saying,
>> "move your saddle back and down").
>>
>> And of course all rules are merely starting points.
>>
>> No setback seatposts make sense on a bike like this; you even see
>> seatposts with forward "setback" or perhaps "set-forward," but look at
>> those seat tube angles!
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 12:24 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>>
>>> Perhaps another bit of information to muddy the waters is the Analog
>>> Cycles perspective that straight (no setback) seatposts make no sense,
>>> except for frames (like theirs) that have relatively slack seat tubes. Like
>>> our Riv’s.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Homer Sizing Question

[CoalTrain]

Thanks Bill. That's the conclusion I'm coming to as well.

On Saturday, June 24, 2023 at 3:29:38 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The numbers are there to run, but my expectation is that if you ran the 
> numbers, you would find the 58 Homer would be closer to the XL Romanceur.  
> The 58 Homer might even be a little bit "bigger" than the XL Romanceur, in 
> pure Stack and Reach land.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Saturday, June 24, 2023 at 12:58:45 PM UTC-7 CoalTrain wrote:
>
>> I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Homer to go with my Platypus and 
>> Romanceur. I have a PBH of roughly 90cm and probably go with a 61.5 or 58. 
>> I would like the option to ride drops but am worried if I go 61.5 it will 
>> be too big and if I go 58 it will be too small. I currently ride as my road 
>> bike a XL Romanceur and it fits perfect; I could actually stretch out a 
>> little if I had a longer stem then the 80 nitto I have on the Rom. Has 
>> anybody else been in this situation? Did you go big and get drops to work?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Homer Sizing Question

[Bill Lindsay]

The numbers are there to run, but my expectation is that if you ran the 
numbers, you would find the 58 Homer would be closer to the XL Romanceur.  
The 58 Homer might even be a little bit "bigger" than the XL Romanceur, in 
pure Stack and Reach land.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Saturday, June 24, 2023 at 12:58:45 PM UTC-7 CoalTrain wrote:

> I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Homer to go with my Platypus and 
> Romanceur. I have a PBH of roughly 90cm and probably go with a 61.5 or 58. 
> I would like the option to ride drops but am worried if I go 61.5 it will 
> be too big and if I go 58 it will be too small. I currently ride as my road 
> bike a XL Romanceur and it fits perfect; I could actually stretch out a 
> little if I had a longer stem then the 80 nitto I have on the Rom. Has 
> anybody else been in this situation? Did you go big and get drops to work?

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[lconley]

#5 - I believe that most generator powered headlight beams were designed to 
project from just above the wheel (rack or fender or fork crown mount), as 
that is sort of constant within a short range. Handlebar heights can vary 
greatly and can end up with the light pointed down too much.
The handlebar mounted battery lights would be an obvious exception to this.

Try these:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.php
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/plight.php

Also explore the rest of Peter White's site - most everything you need to 
know about bicycle lighting is there.

Laing

On Saturday, June 24, 2023 at 1:43:18 AM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hello all, I have an update and some questions.
>
> This afternoon I installed the headlight and finished a few details. After 
> sunset I went for a ride, and I was amazed at the brightness and throw of 
> the new headlight and taillight!
>
> However, I have a few questions for people familiar with the SON dynamo 
> and Schmidt Edelux II:
>
> 1: Once the bike is moving, the 0, S, and 1 switch positions do not 
> function. I can turn the lights on, but not off. What’s the story here?
>
> 2: When I ride with the headlight switch in the “S” position, the light is 
> dim and flickers. Is that normal?
>
> 3: When I got home and put the bike away, the lights remained on for 
> several minutes, regardless of the switch position. Is that normal?
>
> 4: The light shape on the ground is sort of a trapezoid, surrounded by a 
> less-bright circle. Is that the way the light beam was designed?
>
> 5: My headlight is mounted on my handlebars; most headlights I’ve seen are 
> mounted at the fork crown or on a front rack. What is the advantage of 
> mounting the light lower and closer to the front wheel? If my headlight is 
> mounted on the handlebars, am I reducing the efficacy of the light? 
>
> 6: The light is illuminating approximately ten to twenty feet of road in 
> front of me. What is the correct position for the light? Should I aim the 
> light higher or lower?
>
> Below are some photos from this evening’s ride. As always, your wisdom, 
> experience, and advice are welcomed and appreciated.
> [image: IMG_9244-2.jpg]
> The throw and brightness of the Edelux is amazing.
>
> [image: IMG_9285-2.jpg]
> Here's the trapezoid light shape, surrounded by a circle.
>
> [image: IMG_9266-2.jpg]
> The woods are lovely, dark, and deep, but I have promises to keep...
>
> [image: IMG_9304-2.jpg]
> ...and miles to go before I sleep.
>
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Leah Peterson]

I think there is merit to getting a longer stem to alleviate the feeling of needing more space in the bar area. I would have gladly tried this over the ugly IRD seat post, but I have the extra tall Nitto stem that maxes out at 10 cm, which I have. I wish they made a 12, but alas. So, the seat post is what I got and it seems to be working - there were kinks to work out. That post, where it clamps onto my Rivet saddle, made the most annoying sets of clicks. It sounded like the drivetrain, which is beyond my scope of practice, so I hauled it in. Totally stumped the bike shop, too, and then they finally found the issue. They lubed or greased or something and now it’s silent, just like I like it.On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:49 PM, lconley  wrote:Then there are also those with really, really long torsos, that need a long stem and lots of setback on the seatpost; or a custom frame.Also remember that a Brooks saddle sometimes needs a longer setback seatpost to put you in the same location relative to the pedals as another type of saddle on a normal seatpost; no longer stem will help that.Laing On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 3:22:38 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:+ another for Garth's point (and many others make it too, including PJW in his very good article on bike fitting) that you first set up your saddle in relation to the cranks in order to get both good "balance" (with sufficient setback that your torso muscles support the torso's weight, and so that this support is not left to hands and arms and shoulders), and good power or torque on the pedals (too far forward and you lose power, IME -- Grant cured me of an all-the-way forward saddle, long story, by saying, "move your saddle back and down").And of course all rules are merely starting points.No setback seatposts make sense on a bike like this; you even see seatposts with forward "setback" or perhaps "set-forward," but look at those seat tube angles!On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 12:24 PM Richard Rose  wrote:Perhaps another bit of information to muddy the waters is the Analog Cycles perspective that straight (no setback) seatposts make no sense, except for frames (like theirs) that have relatively slack seat tubes. Like our Riv’s.Sent from my iPhone



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[RBW] Homer Sizing Question

[CoalTrain]

I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Homer to go with my Platypus and 
Romanceur. I have a PBH of roughly 90cm and probably go with a 61.5 or 58. 
I would like the option to ride drops but am worried if I go 61.5 it will 
be too big and if I go 58 it will be too small. I currently ride as my road 
bike a XL Romanceur and it fits perfect; I could actually stretch out a 
little if I had a longer stem then the 80 nitto I have on the Rom. Has 
anybody else been in this situation? Did you go big and get drops to work?

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

Then there are also those with really, really long torsos, that need a long 
stem *and* lots of setback on the seatpost; or a custom frame.
Also remember that a Brooks saddle sometimes needs a longer setback 
seatpost to put you in the same location relative to the pedals as another 
type of saddle on a normal seatpost; no longer stem will help that.

Laing 

On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 3:22:38 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> + another for Garth's point (and many others make it too, including PJW in 
> his very good article on bike fitting) that you first set up your saddle in 
> relation to the cranks in order to get both good "balance" (with sufficient 
> setback that your torso muscles support the torso's weight, and so that 
> this support is not left to hands and arms and shoulders), and good power 
> or torque on the pedals (too far forward and you lose power, IME -- Grant 
> cured me of an all-the-way forward saddle, long story, by saying, "move 
> your saddle back and down").
>
> And of course all rules are merely starting points.
>
> No setback seatposts make sense on a bike like this; you even see 
> seatposts with forward "setback" or perhaps "set-forward," but look at 
> those seat tube angles!
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 12:24 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>
>> Perhaps another bit of information to muddy the waters is the Analog 
>> Cycles perspective that straight (no setback) seatposts make no sense, 
>> except for frames (like theirs) that have relatively slack seat tubes. Like 
>> our Riv’s.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: A few Swift bags at Sierra.com

[Drew Saunders]

Mine arrived from Sierra yesterday and I tried it on my Riv on a 24 mile 
ride this morning. I have a Candy Bar Bag, made for Riv by Duluth Pack, 
many years ago for comparison.

The volume is about the same. On cold rides that warm up, I’ve used the 
Candy Bar to carry my vest, wool “dotted” gloves and glove liners as I shed 
them. The Swift Kestrel can handle the same load, which surprised me, as it 
seems smaller.

I like the waterproof phone pocket in front, but doubt I’ll ever use the 
interior zipped pocket.

I think it will be a better fit for my Ibis with original WTB off road drop 
bars, as it’s narrower than the Candy Bar.

I should probably include photos…

Drew

On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 3:59:56 PM UTC-7 Chester wrote:

> A heads-up to anyone who finds this attractive:
>
> https://www.sierra.com/swift-industries~b~41056/
>
> Kestrel handlebar bag in Coyote tan for $60. Anchor hip bag in Black and 
> Coyote for $60. And the Vireo hip bag in Dark Green X-Pac for $50.
>

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[RBW] WTB Tubus Airy rear rack

[Ed Felker]

I’m looking for one of these titanium rear racks in good shape. Let me know
if you have one to sell.

Thanks
Ed
Washington DC

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Silver 170 triple crank

[Doug Van Cleve]

A 42/28 double *might* also do the trick...

Doug Van Cleve
Chandler, AZ

On Sat, Jun 24, 2023 at 10:12 AM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:

> Howdy folks.
>
> Anybody holding an unwanted Silver 170mm triple crank in good condition?
> I might buy a new one, now that they're back in stock, but I wouldn't hate
> saving some dough either.
>
> On a related note, what width BB would I need for a Silver triple on a Joe
> Appa?  The bike currently has a Sugino triple, it would be swell if the
> same BB would work (well)...
>
> Thanks, Doug
>

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[RBW] WTB: Silver 170 triple crank

[Doug Van Cleve]

Howdy folks.

Anybody holding an unwanted Silver 170mm triple crank in good condition?  I
might buy a new one, now that they're back in stock, but I wouldn't hate
saving some dough either.

On a related note, what width BB would I need for a Silver triple on a Joe
Appa?  The bike currently has a Sugino triple, it would be swell if the
same BB would work (well)...

Thanks, Doug

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Re: [RBW] Plush old 531 steel frames (was being precious)

[JohnS]

Hello Eric N,

Thanks for the close up of your bike. Because of it I noticed the clamped 
on water bottle cage on the seat tube. Do you like? Which brand is it? I 
would like to add a water bottle cage to my '82 Sequoia's down tube (Tange 
Special Series Touring, Cro-Mo Double Butted), great riding bike, so much 
more lively than my Surly Pacer.

JohnS

On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 11:57:10 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> For the tubing nerds out there: the 531 Professional decal (in French) on 
> my 1983 Alex Singer. 
>
> [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg]
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Jun 23, 2023, at 6:53 PM, brendonoid  wrote:
>
> 
>
> My late 80s Holdsworth Mistral is 531c (I assume that's the competition 
> tubing?) And is the only frame I've ridden that has that "planing" feeling 
> that Jan gets so hot under the collar for.
> I have converted it to 650b and it is my go to roadish bike when I'm not 
> on a Riv. Definitely a special frame.
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[Jay LePree]

Dear all:

1)  The choice of fenders, I believe, shall be decided by the number of 
sticks and branches one will encounter on a ride.  When I commute in the 
rain, I use my fully, long fenderd bike. I found that the long fenders that 
Riv. sells are best for keeping my feet dry.  The flap on my front fender 
is, perhaps a 1/2" from the ground.  This is perfect for rain, but a drag, 
literally, when riding through the gravel woody path that I use.  To avoid, 
leaves, sticks, branches from being "sucked up" into the fenders, I go with 
fenderless bikes.  When it ranis, I take the roads with the long fenders.
2) Choice of tires is like asking choice of shoes, saddles, etc.   I use 
the WTB Byway 47 mm tires on my Platy. These tires have a smooth pattern 
down the center.  I have ridden many gravel paths in Minnewaska state park 
near Stone Ridge, NY and have found them fine.  However on really steep 
sections or when I encounter mud, I do wish for some knobs on my back 
wheel.  I may try these tires for this reason:
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/tyres/gravel-bike-tyres/continental-terra-speed/
Kind regards,
Jay LePree
Demarest, NJ
On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 4:15:22 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I love pavement. But I’ve been on two gravel rides in the last month and I 
> rode a Platy either time and it wasn’t my favorite for that bike. But, I 
> have my old 2019 52 cm Clem L, and it doesn’t have a dedicated purpose 
> right now and shouldn’t that be the bike for rough and tough stuff like 
> gravel? Also, my Platys are prisses. 
>
> BUT. I’m not good at gravel. I have no idea what the kids are doing these 
> days. I have questions, and you have answers.
>
> 1. Can I keep my VO wavy fenders on a gravel bike? Here’s what I have, and 
> they say up to 50 mm tire will fit:[image: IMG_5029.jpeg]
> 2. Slick or knobby? I can’t even get a straight answer on this. Which is 
> better? If it matters about the rider, this will be for a rider with a 
> healthy fear of crashing.
>
> 3. How wide? I have 42s on my bikes now and I don’t feel like they are 
> wide enough. 
>
> 4. Tubeless or no? These wheels are tubeless-compatible but I put a tube 
> in them because I wasn’t riding enough to keep the sealant circulating. But 
> that can be changed right quick.
>
> Here is my Clem in its current configuration, and yes, I know the 
> Backabikes gotta go. 
>
> [image: IMG_1812.jpeg]
> Thanks for your help!
> Leah 
>

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