[RBW] Repaints
Hello, group! Help needed! I am getting to the point with my RivBike that I will soon be needing a repaint. My fifteen year-old Rambouillet is a four-season commuter with around 55K miles on it, 99% racked up on NYC streets and bike lanes. With all that, not to mention daily chaining to a bike rack, it would be impossible to maintain a frame in pristine condition but now my periodic inspections are starting to turn up evidence of corrosion causing wee blisters in the original paint in a few places. The Rivendell website page on repaints lists a couple of shops in CA and Waterford. Anyone here have any wisdom/experience/opinions on this subject they'd care to offer regarding these or any other paint shops? Ideally, I'd love to find someone with mad skilz in the greater NYC area who has experience with the Rivendell product and access to the Rivendell decals. Very grateful, in advance, for any help! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7aa11091-eebf-4d9d-8811-9bb94286d81dn%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] How do you ride alone?
I have been a year-'round daily bike commuter for about 35 years. My daily commute from Brooklyn to the middle of Manhattan is about a 9-mile ride, each way. I am riding a 58cm mid-aughts Ramboulliet, my setup informed by the aesthetic influence of the 1970's Gitanes, Motobecanes, Peugeots of my misspent youth; fairly narrow, slopy drop bars, 23mm slicks. Until a recent accident, I was running a 3x9. When my bike gets out of sick bay, it'll be a 2x11. The temperature range I'll commute through is, roughly, 10° F to 100°+ F. In my backpack will be my work wear, a spare tube, a small pump and a small assortment of tools. Bike commuting, for me, has always been a fairly solitary pursuit... Because I'm usually running behind, I tend to ride flat out. As flat out as this schlubby sixty-sonething can manage... Sometimes I'll pick up someone who's interested in pacelining off/with me but even that is fairly solitary, as well. With my roadie laid up, my fallback has been my early eighties, aluminum frame Cannondale M800 MTB which I run set up for simple single track. During the this quarantine, while riding solo, I have been taking advantage of the relative paucity of automotive traffic to explore NYC's fairly extensive network of set-asides for bikes. Tip of the hat to the administrations of Bloomberg and deBlasio for that! If I'm out riding with my wife, we'll tend to do circuits of Prospect Park, in Brooklyn. It's certainly a terrible time for NYC but, perversely, there's probably never been a better time to bike here. The streets are quite empty. It's very strange. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/fc5b97eb-0168-40fe-ab09-b5be49e0386b%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Walking boots -- not entirely unrelated to cycling
Redwing is a venerable company. Forty-odd years ago I owned a succession of compact and lineman work boots and they were fantastically comfortable and long-lasting. I stayed with them as my daily work shoe for the better part of a decade before pivoting to running shoes for work (I'm a stagehand). Lately, they seemed to have become hip with the coming generation and, when I looked, their pricing structure seemed more appropriate to couture than work wear. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2af58145-57a4-48c3-a00b-419ef5918ea0%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking about cycling for me in the future....
Props to all who have posted here for their thoughtful responses. I am a near 62-year old cyclist who has been a daily bike commuter for over thirty years here in New York City and before that in DC. My particular take in the driver/cyclist dynamic is that most of the inroads we cyclists have made into the consciousness if drivers, and they are not insignificant, have been largely wiped out by the proliferation if devices in cars that distract the driver. It's really a scourge. On January 16, the driver of a pickup truck on Eleventh Avenue in the far west side of Manhattan entered an old intersection well after his light had turned red and t-boned me pulling me and my beloved Rivbike underneath the front end of his truck. I was very fortunate to escape with just scrapes 'n' dings. Reflecting on the many experiences recounted above I would have to say that it never occurred to me to stop riding. Not because I'm so tough, or feel entitled to my place in the line of traffic or anything else like that. More likely it's because, for better or worse, cycling is pretty central to who I am, as a person. Maybe more than most other things, I self-identify as a bicyclist. I'm not ready to let go of that, yet. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/36a6389d-4d91-4f93-9d97-d7696fd89324%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] In Search Of Used Derailleur
Hello, group. I am trying to locate a lightly used Ultegra or Dura Ace rear derailleur from the 9-speed era. Please respond here or email at mauricestillmanfl...@gmail.com. Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Contemplating a new saddle
Thanks for all the comments. I was thinking about the question, Was the saddle ever comfortable? Interesting question. I think when I first got the saddle it wasn't comfortable, which is exactly what I expected, because I'd often read that Brooks saddles aren't comfortable until they're broken in. I remember riding and asking myself, Is it broken in yet? Is it broken in yet? So I'm not sure it was ever what I would call comfortable. I had been so used to high quality padded seats which are-what-they-are the day you bolt them on. What reminded me of this is Jim's comment about the WTB seat. When I bought my Atlantis I stole a few parts from my Stumpjumper which had a WTB seat that I loved. (Sidebar: I tried selling my Stumpjumper as is and no one would give me more that $600. I parted it out and got $1200, which is what I paid for it and managed to even keep a few parts for the Atlantis. Go figure.) When I built up the Atlantis I put the WTB seat on it. I have shellacked bars and hammered Honjos and a saddle bag and the WTB looked kind of goofy. So I went with the Brooks which looks spectacular. But ouch. Crazy idea (maybe someone already does this): Leveraging the Rivet idea. How about a bike shop that rents out expensive seats for $30/mo. which can applied to the purchase. The Berthoud seat looks really cool, but I can't come to grips with spending $200 and finding out that gee, it hurts as much as the Brooks. But I would spend $30 to ride it for a month to figure it out. On Tuesday, August 18, 2015 at 11:33:21 PM UTC-4, Jim M. wrote: One of my favorite saddles is a B17 that got sent to Selle Anatomica, and came back with a cutout and some extra leather reinforcement. If perineal pressure is an issue, I'd suggest that route before trying different saddles, though I'm also happy with the newer SA clydesdale saddle and with a Rivet Diablo. Also a Specialized Alien and WTB Rocket, but those won't look as good on an Atlantis. jim m wc ca On Tuesday, August 18, 2015 at 11:24:32 AM UTC-7, Buck wrote: I spent some time reviewing old posts, but was wondering what folks currently think. I have a rather unconventional problem. While most people think a Brooks saddle is the ultimate comfort ride, I have a (beautiful) honey colored Brooks that is (sadly) a pain in my arse. It's several years old and broken in. I have ridden it since the bike was new. I have an Atlantis with touring wheels/tires, drop bars and racks, etc. I've reached the point in life where no one wants to see me in spandex. I have platform pedals and ride in sneakers. There is no particular smoking gun. It's not that my soft tissue goes to sleep. The saddle is just not so comfy for me. Anyway, I'm thinking about trying an alternative to the Brooks. A friend recommended a Selle touring saddle. I'm vain enough that I want the saddle to look good on the Atlantis and also not to have it look like a La-Z-Boy. Does anyone have thoughts on a comfy touring seat for rides that are mostly a couple of hours long? Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Contemplating a new saddle
I'm riding on Pasela Tourguards 26x1.50 tires. I generally inflate them to about 60 lbs, but have also ridden them softer. It's not the road vibration or bumps that gets me. The saddle ends up feeling like cement. It becomes hard to sit on. On Wednesday, August 19, 2015 at 12:51:07 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote: If this is a dumb question, I apologize, but which tires do you have on the Atlantis, and what tire pressures do you ride on? I was just wondering how much road vibration was maybe an issue with your Brooks saddle? I ride on a Berthoud Mente saddle, upright with Albatross bars, but with Barlow Pass tires this effing hard saddle is like riding on a cloud. John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Contemplating a new saddle
I spent some time reviewing old posts, but was wondering what folks currently think. I have a rather unconventional problem. While most people think a Brooks saddle is the ultimate comfort ride, I have a (beautiful) honey colored Brooks that is (sadly) a pain in my arse. It's several years old and broken in. I have ridden it since the bike was new. I have an Atlantis with touring wheels/tires, drop bars and racks, etc. I've reached the point in life where no one wants to see me in spandex. I have platform pedals and ride in sneakers. There is no particular smoking gun. It's not that my soft tissue goes to sleep. The saddle is just not so comfy for me. Anyway, I'm thinking about trying an alternative to the Brooks. A friend recommended a Selle touring saddle. I'm vain enough that I want the saddle to look good on the Atlantis and also not to have it look like a La-Z-Boy. Does anyone have thoughts on a comfy touring seat for rides that are mostly a couple of hours long? Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: This retro thing has gone too far
Spot on. That said, I actually suspect that most anyone wearing a Skid Lid isn't really doing it for protection. It's more of a fashion statement or just a statement statement. They get that it's not much safer than no helmet at all (if you believe helmets are inherently good, which I do). You can't seriously look at one and think it's providing protection. On the other hand, the one that I truly scratch my head over is some of those older riders who wear those ancient styrofoam helmets with the stretchy cloth covers and no hard shell. I truly believe they think they're perfectly safe and that it's a statement statement about what was safe enough then is safe enough now. Now that's delusional. On Jul 25, 3:25 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: The Skid Lid never passed a single safety test; it is a glorified hairnet, absolutely worthless. If someone wants to ride on a 4 lane road without a helmet that's there choice, but wearing a Skid Lid for protection is delusional. On Jul 25, 2:15 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: At the risk of starting a long thread on this topic, I will beg to differ. Even with a shell covering the foam, I can't believe that 30-year-old styrofoam would not be so brittle that it would fail to properly compress during an accident. As with many topics on this list, there are many opinions, including whether or not to wear a helmet. As for me, I choose to always wear a helmet, to change them out every few years, and to replace them if they're damaged in any way. I only have one brain (such as it is), and I want to protect it. Riding with a helmet from the 1980s to avoid the minimal cost of new one is a poor way to save a few bucks. And that's my last word on this subject. --Eric Sent from my iPad On Jul 25, 2010, at 9:16 AM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Jul 25, 2010, at 8:58 AM, Eric Norris wrote: I still see guys using Bell Bikers here in Davis. I'm sometimes tempted to let them know that 20-or 30-year-old styrofoam won't do a thing to protect their brains if they crashed. There's little reason for those helmets to be any less effective now than they were back when they were purchased. The Snell Institute recommends replacing your helmet every five years. There will be a noticeable improvement in the protective characteristic of helmets over a five-year period due to advances in materials, designs, production methods and the standards, SI explains. Manufacturers put UV inhibitors in helmets to prevent structural degradation. If colors are fading, the UV inhibitors are failing and the structural integrity might be compromised. Replace faded helmets as soon as possible. When you read that, bear in mind that the Snell Institute and other such industry groups exist to help sell helmets. The Bell Biker shell just about completely covers the styrofoam, so UV degradation should be a very minimal issue with those helmets. These helmets should probably not be any less effective than they were when they were bought. Whether they provided much protection to begin with is a conversation for another forum. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: This retro thing has gone too far
Makes sense to me. Screw the helmet all together. From now on, I'm going to focus on not getting hit by a car or crashing instead. Probably sell my seat belts and airbags, too, and focus on not getting in an accident in my car. If that works, I'm thinking... sell the smoke detectors. Useless if you avoid setting your house on fire. I'm kidding... and I actually think you're close to right. I can thankfully say that in all the years I've ridden and had incidents, the helmet was irrelevant and a drag to wear. When I stopped and thought about it, I realized that I wear it because I'm less afraid of dying from a serious accident than I am from surviving a serious accident and suffering major, debilitating head trauma. I suspect that's most peoples' fear... On Jul 25, 7:51 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: I just read some of stories of bicycle crashes and the use of helmets specifically one where the rider used an old style Skid Lidthe only problem, his eye socket was busted up as he had impacted directly on his face. Not something any conventional bicycle helmet can protect you from unless you use a full face motorcycle helmet. I read several other stories and sadly many of them would not have been helped one iota from wearing a helmet. Not getting hit by a car ( the worst) or crashing would seem to be the thing to avoid... I'm just saying. On Jul 25, 3:23 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I owned a skid lid, and an early Giro that was nylon mesh over styrofoam. I also smoked cigarettes, marijuana, and a pipe in yesteryear, but the opportunity to know better is much greater today. I don't do leaches when I have a fever either. blessings, michael On Jul 25, 6:11 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On Sun, 2010-07-25 at 14:46 -0700, Leslie wrote: On Jul 25, 9:41 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: On the way to work this morning I passed a guy, on a normally busy road, riding with a Skid Lid! Yikes! What dark basement did he pull that out of and why wasn't it simply trashed decades ago? You realize you can buy a new Skid Lid today, right? Yes, but it's not the same helmet at all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cross Country Trip
Hey thanks. This is exactly what I was looking for. I said SAG wagon but really meant just a van/vehicle that can carry gear and spare parts, and the idea of rotating drivers solves a lot of problems. I like the idea of mixing camping and motels, but without a vehicle, I was stuck on having to carry just as much camping gear for one night as for every night. Anyway, you got me thinking. So thanks. And I'm not really interested in back-to-back centuries either. I would have considered that 25 years ago, but these days I'm more into averaging 75-ish a day. On Jul 16, 12:42 am, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Buck: My touring buds I have done many tours over the years, with a variety of arrangements, always trying to balance cost, comfort, convenience adventure. We're all well over the hill have no ambitions to back-to-back century days while camping cooking. We've done SAG suppported tours someone is always is to drive for a half day. Agree upon a lunch / hand-over spot, driver takes off parks the van. Driver is then free to ride back up the course however far they want to go, turn around, ride the balance of the days ride. Whoever takes over at the lunch stop drives the van to tonight's destination, rides back up the course if they want. OK, you don't get to ride every mile of the tour but you can get pretty darn close. By sharing the driving, you save the cost of hiring. Our preferred vehicle is a mini-van. We've supported 10 riders with camping gear out of a mini. In Europe we've done a dozen out of a small hatchback on lodging tours. A rental is much easier to split the costs unless someone is OK with putting several thousand miles on their own car. If you have all your stuff carried, you can either camp or motel it, depending on deisreabilty of camping areas, weather, costs, etc. We're lousy cooks so prefer restaurants but can get by on cup'o'noodles when pressed. Keep it flexible. For your proposed trip, start recruiting now you can probably get enough people to split the car cost to make it work. We've found 5-6 is pretty easy to get togehter but keep it under 12 as it gets pretty cumbersome at that level. You may also get people who want to go partway others who want to join you somewhere along the way. Be creative. The advantage to doing your own tour is control of mileages routing but you accept a lot of responsibility in the bargain. dougP On Jul 15, 4:44 pm, Buck ahurv...@gmail.com wrote: Long story short... After planning, training, and convincing my boss I just had to do it, I began a solo cross-country bike trip in 1985. I started in Anacortes, WA and expected to end in Boston (my hometown). I rolled into Omak, WA three days later with a raging corneal infection. My ophthalmologist insisted I fly home immediately. It's been gnawing at me ever since. The math is easy... I'm 25 years older. I'm not nearly as fit. I no longer want to drag a tent and sleeping bag 3000 miles or drill holes in my toothbrush to lighten the load (kidding). But... I bought a new Atlantis a couple of years ago thinking that just maybe I could make the trip one day. I'm thinking about next summer. I'm looking for comments/suggestions with the following guidelines: I still want to do the northern route and include, if possible, Going to the Sun Road in Glacier. I don't want to carry a tent and I'd prefer not to carry a stove, etc. I would definitely consider a group with a SAG wagon, but I'm gagging at the prices ($6000+). I want to ENJOY the ride. My original plan was 5+ weeks (probably optimistic). I'm thinking more like 7-ish now, though I need to figure out my level of fitness, etc. I was out for a ride today and came up with this fantasy find 6-8 compatibles and work out a loosely organized trip that includes hiring a college student(?) to basically drive a SAG wagon for us. Mostly to ferry the gear from point to point, but also as a safety net for emergencies or repairs that can't be fixed without parts/tools. Any ideas? Any inexpensive organized trips you know of? I could handle camping if the gear was in a SAG wagon. Or I could do cheap hotels. Is this an acceptable topic? Buck -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Cross Country Trip
Long story short... After planning, training, and convincing my boss I just had to do it, I began a solo cross-country bike trip in 1985. I started in Anacortes, WA and expected to end in Boston (my hometown). I rolled into Omak, WA three days later with a raging corneal infection. My ophthalmologist insisted I fly home immediately. It's been gnawing at me ever since. The math is easy... I'm 25 years older. I'm not nearly as fit. I no longer want to drag a tent and sleeping bag 3000 miles or drill holes in my toothbrush to lighten the load (kidding). But... I bought a new Atlantis a couple of years ago thinking that just maybe I could make the trip one day. I'm thinking about next summer. I'm looking for comments/suggestions with the following guidelines: I still want to do the northern route and include, if possible, Going to the Sun Road in Glacier. I don't want to carry a tent and I'd prefer not to carry a stove, etc. I would definitely consider a group with a SAG wagon, but I'm gagging at the prices ($6000+). I want to ENJOY the ride. My original plan was 5+ weeks (probably optimistic). I'm thinking more like 7-ish now, though I need to figure out my level of fitness, etc. I was out for a ride today and came up with this fantasy find 6-8 compatibles and work out a loosely organized trip that includes hiring a college student(?) to basically drive a SAG wagon for us. Mostly to ferry the gear from point to point, but also as a safety net for emergencies or repairs that can't be fixed without parts/tools. Any ideas? Any inexpensive organized trips you know of? I could handle camping if the gear was in a SAG wagon. Or I could do cheap hotels. Is this an acceptable topic? Buck -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Handlebar Bag
I've been following this thread for a while and not responding because I don't have/want a large handlebar bag. I'm more into day rides and just need something smaller. After looking at a bazillion different bags (Brand V, Carradice, Ortlieb, etc.) and trying to get the right look/functionality to match my old-school Atlantis (hammered honjos, shellacked bars, a Keven on the saddle), I went with the Acorn handlebar bag and I love it. Here's why: It more or less matches the Keven (in tan). So it looks right on the bike. I wanted a separate secure pocket on the back or side for my cell phone. Another for a point and shoot camera. The two pockets on the back of the Acorn with fasteners are perfect. I needed enough room for a sandwich, a wind-shirt and a few odds and ends (tools, lock, etc., in Keven). That fits nicely in the zippered main compartment. I did not want to have to use a rack or decaleur because I wanted to be able to ride the bike without the bag on it, and I just wanted a nice clean look when the bag wasn't on there. I wanted it to be small enough to not affect handling. The Acorn is perfect because it is extremely well made. Tensioned properly, it is quiet and secure. It is beautiful to look at when I am riding and easy to access. It stays dry. It only costs $100 (feels weird saying only $100). And... I felt good that I was supporting a husband and wife business that they are passionate about. There you have it... Buck On Jun 10, 2:22 pm, Rob Harrison robha...@gmail.com wrote: The one remaining thing I need to complete my Saluki (Sure, sure you say!) is a handlebar bag. What's your favorite, and why? I will use it on increasingly longer rides in variable weather (I'm in Seattle!), carrying a Panasonic GF1...or a Voigtlander Vitessa on my film days...jacket, rain-chaps, sandwich, banana, and so on, and possibly an S24O later in the season. I have a Berthoud 786 saddle bag, which is large enough for tools and an extra tube, etc. and could be used in conjunction with a smaller bag up front, or left at home if I have a larger bag. Having sold my motorcycle, cost is not so much of a consideration. It's going on a 62cm Saluki on which I have the bars set quite high, so there is approximately six feet of room between the Mark's rack and the handlebars I'm not married to the Mark's rack, if a smaller bag hanging off the bars will work. For summer day-long rides something small could work. Just need room for food and camera. For the rest of the year, I'll need additional space for clothing. I've been eyeing these larger ones: Inujirushi, Acorn boxy rando, Berthoud 28, and these smaller ones: Berthoud 192, Acorn medium handlebar bag, Sackville BarSack and Ortlieb Ultimate 5. Being rain- proof is a serious consideration, 'cause as you know it rains eight months of the year here. A rain cover would do fine though, because it does NOT rain for the other four months. :) I like the idea of waxed canvas, as long as it'll keep the camera dry. Here's the bike: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robharrison/4673037719/ Fenders arriving tomorrow, according to UPS! Thanks for your consideration. Rob in Seattle -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Installing Fenders Question
A cork works great, but so does just about anything you can slip over a screw. I took an artsy approach using resin beads and a funky coin from Belize as a washer. The basic thing I learned was that whatever you use, if you counterbore and spin a nut up so it sits on the topside of the fender as well as underneath, it's quite rigid. Here's a link to my flickr pics. They're a couple of years old and it's still working great. No noise or rattling. btw... a key thing for me with the metal Honlos was the leather washers available at V-O (or you could easily fabricate some). Finally, I cut the domed bottom out of a beer can (drink beer first) and drilled a hole in it and it made a nice curved washer that sits up under the fender. Here's the link. There are several pics. Gets lots of comments. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26804...@n02/2596325836/in/set-72157605719324834/ On May 12, 8:08 pm, Frankwurst fbr...@jwperry.com wrote: Go to your local hardware store (provided they have a good nut,bolt and fastener supply) and you can find aluminum sleeves that will fit your needs along with the bolts ( button head ) in the proper length to make them work. Or just drill a hole in a cork (wine that is) and get a bolt that will fit. Do all modifications to the cork before drinking the wine. On May 12, 6:53 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote: So I installed some SKS fenders on my wife's bike and you know the rear fender how it attaches to the bike near the kickstand bottom bracket area? Well in cases where it creates a big gap between the fender and the tire is there any type of spacer that can be purchased to go between the fender and where it attaches so that it doesn't look awful? The rest of the fender looks fine and then there is that big gap at that point. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: paul's racer brakes vs cantis questions
I have Paul Touring Cantis on my Atlantis. They replaced some Avid V- brakes. I l-o-v-e the Cantis. I really do. But... I honestly can't say that they stop me any faster than the way-cheaper Avids or feel $150 better. Maybe it depends on the kind of riding you do. For me, to a large extent, (good) brakes is brakes. And you can get good brakes for $50. The Cantis are definitely terrific and trouble-free. Very adjustable (though mine still squeal a little and might need a tweak). For me, the best part is that I have complete confidence in them and they just look so col. That's important to me on this bike. Other bikes I've had it didn't matter. Here's my two cents. If everything else on your bike is the way you want it and you have the $$ $ burning a hole in your pocket (I did), no better way to spend it than on Pauls. But I'd put several things on my gotta-have list before $200 brakes: A Brooks seat (or equivalent) The perfect bag (I have an Acorn handlebar bag) Put the $200 towards great wheels Honjos plus maybe some tires New derailers/shifters But that's just me. On May 13, 2:41 pm, J C chive...@gmail.com wrote: Hello hip listers, Do any of you use the Paul's racer or the racer m(edium) brakes? How would you compare them to the neo retros? Do you know if the racer m brake works if the centerpull is a bit skewed to one side or another- eg is the spring tension on the brakes adjustable on both sides? They look like it in the photos. Do you have any brake squeal issues using the racers? Have you seen any chain stay mounted versions- are they just glorified u brakes? Would you buy them again? Are you using them on 700c wheels? Thanks for the help Studies show that fish live longer when you don't eat them. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Riddle me this.
Exactly. It's them nuances and the effect they have on our lives. And actually the same friend who has the boat (which I don't understand either) says it best... there's an ass for every seat. I was thinking just the other day how when I was growing up I had an old Raleigh 3-speed with a Brooks seat. When I graduated to a real road bike with a grooved and padded techno-seat I marveled at how I ever rode on a ridiculous slab of leather stretched across a metal frame. Over the years I must have gone through a half a dozen techno- seats (and they weren't bad). And then when I bought my Atlantis I spent $100 on a Brooks. And I l-o-v-e it. Most comfortable seat ever. Weird. I only ever had one other bike that did the same thing for me. Back in the 1980's I did some consulting for Fat City Cycles. They made Fat Chance Mountain bikes. I worked for free with the understanding that at some point, whenever he felt that I'd finally earned it (or never if I didn't), the owner would give me a bike. I worked for him for several years and then one day I went to the shop and he looked at me and said, today's the day. It was cool. And I loved and cherished that bike for almost 20 years. Just like my Atlantis. On Apr 5, 11:24 am, Jon Grant jgr...@papagrant.com wrote: The money we spend and how we choose to spend it. Sheesh. I have a Joe S./Curt/Joe B. Rivendell custom that was damaged in a collision. While it was away for repair, I put almost all the parts on a (Panasonic-built?) Schwinn World Voyageur frame so I could continue riding to work. It was pretty enough, and rode just fine. One day, without thinking of all the possible ramifications of my words, I remarked to my wife, ³You know, that old Schwinn is about 70% as good a ride as the Rivendell.² Oops. She pulled up short and said, ³Wait. The bike you paid fifty bucks for is two thirds as good as the bike that cost us more than three grand?² After she started talking to me again, we had some long and interesting discussions about nuances of design and craftsmanship and their effect on function and quality of our lives, both individually and as a society. I still have the Riv and still catch myself staring at it, marveling at the details of joinery and paint, and marveling at the ride when astride it. The Schwinn has gone to a deserving home, with no regrets. I will say this: I CANNOT understand how some folks spend so much money on boats and fishing gear. Now that¹s just ridiculous. -- Jon ³Kidding! I kid!² Grant, house-bound in Austin, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Riddle me this.
I go visit my friend, RIck, on Cape Cod. He never rides, but we're gonna ride the Cape Cod bike trail just for fun. He drags an old Specialized Crossroads out of the garage. It's maybe early/mid 90's and a hybrid-y kind of thing. I have my Atlantis. Rick is very mechanical (think cars, boats, motorcycles) and very handy (rebuilt much of his house). He's oohing and ahhing over the Atlantis. Asks me what I like about it. I tell him how comfy it is. Bars a little higher than the seat, long wheelbase, large triangle, etc. With his bike next to mine, the frame triangles are noticeably different. So I'm barking about his small tubes and all that stuff. While we're talking, he takes a tape measure off his belt... Despite the obvious difference in tube lengths, our wheelbases are almost identical (we're both the same height). His seat is the same height as mine (though his top tube is much lower). His bars are actually about the same height. The seat to pedal distance is about the same. In other words, the frame sizes are radically different... his seat tube extends way more than mine and his stem is taller, but hey, sitting on our bikes is pretty much identical. I can recite all the coefficient of linear plentitudes and cosines of the primary hypotenuse stuff, but beyond the theory, he was looking at me like hey, I l-o-v-e your Atlantis, but tell me again why... if I'm not riding across Nepal... your Atlantis is better than my $75 craigslist special if we're just going for a ride?? I had a great $1000 answer. Because the Atlantis is so cool. But I didn't have a good $2500-3000 answer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cloth Tape, Twine, Shellac and Vanity
Here's my bike with yellow. The first day pics are toward the end and the re-shellacking pics up front. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26804...@n02/ On Apr 3, 5:19 am, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I'd say that the Tressostar signal orange tape is a better match for a fairly dark honey Brooks than the yellow (judging from velomann's photo; haven't used the yellow myself). It's hard to believe the tape was orange after 2-3 coats:http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/4424231067/ Gernot On Apr 3, 1:39 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote: I'm going to try the Kelly Green tape with amber shellack on my Bombadil... will post pictures when I'm done. I'm trying to match the B17 green saddle. René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cloth Tape, Twine, Shellac and Vanity
It is indeed yellow tape and amber shellac (I used Bullseye). I have that combo and it is close depending on how much shellac you use. Regardless, if it doesn't match perfectly, it complements perfectly. And yes, looking at the yellow tape you simply cannot imagine it will ever match. But it does. On Apr 1, 1:43 pm, Ryan citizenofmilwau...@gmail.com wrote: Can any of you esteemed group members recommend cloth tape, twine and shellac that would closely match a well used honey Brooks? Yrs., Ryan Post Script: It's not for because I'm vain but for Vanity 6. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V-Brake lever question
C'mon... L-I-Z-A-R-D-S!!! How can you put a price on lizards? Priceless... Speaking of lizards and priceless... if you haven't seen it on youtube... the Lego version of Eddie Izzard's Death Star Canteen http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv5iEK-IEzw As for the finish, etc., the CC's are very nice and the overall quality is excellent. On Mar 11, 10:33 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for the lead! Has anyone determined if there is a difference between CC and Tektros, other than finish and lizards? On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 7:13 AM, Buck ahurv...@gmail.com wrote: I have the CC Drop V levers. I originally mounted Avid V Brakes (which came off my Stumpjumper) on my Atlantis with Paselas, so I needed the extra travel. I bought most of my parts from Harris Cyclery (and possibly the levers... don't remember) since they are my local dealer and THE nicest people. The levers are very nice, though not so nice that I would spend $60 if they weren't specifically for V brakes. If that makes sense. But I would have spent $40 and... I googled them and they're available at a couple of places, for around $40. At aebike.com, they're $42 and if you can find something else and get the total to $75, shipping is free. Ironically, I later swapped out my Avids for Paul cantis... so I don't need the extra travel, but the CC's work fine with the cantis, too. On Mar 8, 10:36 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: What are the down-sides to using a regular road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek) with V- Brakes? I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD). I'm starting with what I have lying around and going from there... Long shot request. Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around unused and lonely? I need the long-pull V kind, not the regular 287 model. I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem. FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version. Pricey as all get out though. http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b... -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V-Brake lever question
I have the CC Drop V levers. I originally mounted Avid V Brakes (which came off my Stumpjumper) on my Atlantis with Paselas, so I needed the extra travel. I bought most of my parts from Harris Cyclery (and possibly the levers... don't remember) since they are my local dealer and THE nicest people. The levers are very nice, though not so nice that I would spend $60 if they weren't specifically for V brakes. If that makes sense. But I would have spent $40 and... I googled them and they're available at a couple of places, for around $40. At aebike.com, they're $42 and if you can find something else and get the total to $75, shipping is free. Ironically, I later swapped out my Avids for Paul cantis... so I don't need the extra travel, but the CC's work fine with the cantis, too. On Mar 8, 10:36 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: What are the down-sides to using a regular road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek) with V- Brakes? I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD). I'm starting with what I have lying around and going from there... Long shot request. Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around unused and lonely? I need the long-pull V kind, not the regular 287 model. I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem. FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version. Pricey as all get out though.http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b... -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Carboon Bashing- was: Riv resurrecting and selling crashed frames
Well, if you saw me in one of those wicked stretchy, neon-rainbow- colored, advert-festooned synthetic jerseys, you'd be thinking... catastrophic failure! As for the steel v carbon thing... it's much, much simpler. Forget about catastrophic failure, fatigue, and all that rocket science stuff. It was a beautiful day in my hometown, Concord MA (about 20 miles NW of Boston), yesterday. Fifty-something degrees and sunny. There were a million people out on their bikes. I had just read The Rant before I went out on my ride. As I was riding along and checking out everyone's bike, I noticed something... people on carbon bikes are way too serious. They all look like if they could just get to wherever they're going faster than the last time, then life would be good until the next time they rode when they'd have to beat that time. Unless their friend was a little faster. Then they're miserable. And if you put two or more of them together, they need to ride wheel to wheel to maximize draft and get wherever it is they're going faster. They look straight ahead and they're almost never smiling. Only about 1 in 10 will say hello as they pass. The frames are impossibly small, the seats incredibly narrow, the bars are way below the seat, and... well... it reminded me that before I bought my Atlantis, I had a Lemond (steel with a carbon fork) and that was more or less how I rode. It wasn't comfortable. It was all about the cyclocomputer. And riding was more of a competitive event that just plain fun. Now it's just fun and comfortable and I'm happy every time I go out for a ride. I never installed a computer on my Atlantis. I ride as far as I want and as fast as I want. Having a steel bike lets me do that. All those folks on carbon (and I don't mean this critically) don't pay attention to folks on steel. But... if you ride carbon and dress the part, carbon passing carbon is always a competitive event. You can't not be about going faster. You can't relax. You don't notice stuff along the way. The first time I rode my Atlantis on my favorite route after 10 years on a Lemond, I saw 100 things I'd never noticed before along the way. Steel is liberating that way. Frankly, I could care less what people ride. As for carbon being dangerous... it probably is more dangerous. But... it turns out that the most dangerous things in life are the most mundane. It's more dangerous getting in and out of the bathtub or crossing the street. Or these days, driving a Toyota (kidding...). So let them ride carbon and think of the benefits... they pass you fast, they won't interrupt your happiness by saying hello, and they're long gone much more quickly than if they were riding steel. On Mar 7, 10:36 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I have a synthetic jersey and it keeps me warm. Everybody I know uses synthetic jersies. They have never failed, even the zippers! Why is Grant going on and on about wool and disparaging synthetic jersies. Tom Ritchey uses synthetic jersies. So does Gary Fisher. They both know a thing or two about jersies. Oh, wrong list, sorry. On Sun, Mar 7, 2010 at 12:19 AM, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote: On Mar 6, 9:41 am, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Mar 6, 2010, at 10:22 AM, bfd wrote: Grant's pointing out the problems with carbon doesn't strike me as desperate, it strikes me as concerned about people's safety. OK, maybe I wasn't clear, I was only talking about carbon FRAMES; not carbon forks, carbon seatpost, carbon handlebars or any other carbon parts. Maybe I'm not Grant and connected or in so I don't see or hear that much about carbon failing. Maybe I only see my little group and nobody has ever had a carbon FRAME failed. Yes, its anecdotal and really doesn't prove anything. BUT, then you have Grant making his doom and gloom comments about carbon frame failing and unrepairable is incorrect. For example, on page 1 of his 2010 bike catalog, he states Carbon is light, for instant mass appeal. It is theoretically strong, but if the reality approached the theory, carbon frames and forks would never break. And yet, failures are common, sudden failures are the norm, and nobody who knows carbon rides old carbon. Really, I'm riding a 13 year old Calfee with a kestrel carbon fork (yes, steel steerer tube) that I bought USED in 1997 that supposedly had 2500 miles on it. It now has over 25K miles on it and interesting, no sudden failure. Craig Calfee has riders on his bikes that are 20 years old with over 100k miles (100,000 MILES) with no problem. Stating that all carbon bike are subject to sudden failures is incorrect. Further in the same catalog on page 16 he compares his roadeo bike to a mcrb (modern carbon road bike) and states The MCRB should be retired in four years, and may force your retirement sooner. Really? a mcrb should be retired in four years? On what basis? Paranoia? Or just another way to discredit carbon
[RBW] Re: Carboon Bashing- was: Riv resurrecting and selling crashed frames
You're right. When I reread my post it was too nasty. More a reaction to where I'd been and where I am. I'm actually a very competitive person, just not on a bike any more. So thanks for calling me on it, But I do think the steel v carbon is less about physics and fundamentally a mindset. If you ride steel you're passionate about it and if you ride carbon you're equally passionate. And what is so obvious to one is the opposite to the other. In fact, I'd go so far to say that if all of a sudden I woke up tomorrow to learn that somehow science had gotten it completely wrong and steel in fact was proven to fail more catastrophically than carbon, I'd still be riding steel. That it's not about the fear of catastrophic failure. It's about the suppleness, the strength, the forgiveness, the lugs, the craftsmanship and artistry, and the sheer natural beauty of steel. On Mar 8, 11:42 am, Patrick in VT psh...@drm.com wrote: On Mar 8, 10:43 am, Buck ahurv...@gmail.com wrote: But... if you ride carbon and dress the part, carbon passing carbon is always a competitive event. You can't not be about going faster. You can't relax. You don't notice stuff along the way. The first time I rode my Atlantis on my favorite route after 10 years on a Lemond, I saw 100 things I'd never noticed before along the way. Steel is liberating that way. that's a mindset. it has nothing to do with steel vs. carbon. before carbon was the norm, racer boys and girls were riding steel. anyway, some folks like to ride fast - so what? maybe they have a personal goal that requires some intense training. maybe it's the one time during the week they have a chance to exercise. maybe - imagine this - they actually like the ups and downs of competition! that's part of the fun of sports - and, like it or not, cycling is still a competitive sport. and since when is being competitive a bad thing? seriously, why knock people for that? that attitude bums me out more than any carbon vs. steel debate. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What's in Your Saddlebag?
I had a 1969 Lotus Elan which I LOVED! But it is not for the faint of heart. I used to tell people I spent a lot of time assuming the Lotus position... one hand on the steering wheel, the other hand out the window catching the parts falling off. I now have a Bugeye Sprite... much more reliable. As for my saddle bag... on the minimalist side for pavement riding in city/suburban, Boston environs: Multitool, bandana, thin cable and a modest padlock (just enough to scare off the casual thief), blinky light, two change purses (one with money) and a very small pump. In the other change purse is an assortment of little things... patches, a presta/schrader adapter (more of a good luck charm I've been carrying for 20 years), extra fender/frame fitting, and a few safety pins. And after reading everyone's list, I'm adding in a surgical glove, a few nuts and bolts, a zip tie, and a couple of wipes and bandaids. On the fence with a tube. On Mar 6, 7:05 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Leslie, A 72 Land Rover...certainly a vehicle requiring tools. I've got a 74 Lotus (Lotus = Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious). I carry just enough to be able to tighten/loosen/adjust any fastener on the bike. I have used my chain tool to help others far more time than to help myself, same with tire boots and it's about 50/50 with the frame pump. I feel good when I am able to help a fellow cyclist...I don't want to carry less and loose that opportunity. Two tubes is a good thing. I started picking up skinny 700c tubes that I find discarded, patching them, and carrying one in my saddlebag to donate to someone in need. They are labeled guest tubes as they are too skinny for any of my tires. Angus On Mar 5, 7:30 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote: I'm not up to doing 200 anytime too soon maybe one day, but not yet. It's an assortment that, should be able to take care of a lot of things I could encounter. On my to-do list is to cut up a mailer envelope to make a few boots, and maybe add a fiberspoke, too. But whatever's in there is what's in there, I wouldn't pull stuff out for shorter, or shove more in for longer, I think what's in there will simply be in there for whatever I come across. Hopefully won't need it, but, it's there if I do. I'm used to old British vehicles I've got a '72 Land Rover that I rebuilt, and a '60 that I need to rebuild in a year or two so, I'm used to keeping tools on hand to be able to get back home, even from a short trip to the store. I'm usually not far from anywhere, would have a phone, could call about anybody and get help to arrive soon enough, if I didn't have any tools on hand. But, I kind of like having a bit of independence, not having to expect anyone to help. I've never needed a tool on my own bike on any ride that I've ever done; but, on many rides, I've ended up having to assist someone else. So, it's not even so much for being able to cover my own self, as it is to be able to lend a hand if needed... I'm considering dropping the multi-tool and going w/ just 4/5/6 allens, and maybe the chain-tool is overkill for most of my needs. And, I mounted my tubes/tires w/o the levers anyway, they're probably not a 'need' either. And, if I had a flat, I'd swap the tube and plan to patch the other back home, instead of on the spot... I look at the patch kit as a third line of defense after the two tubes. Plus, having two tubes, I could give one away if I ran into someone who needed one, and still have a spare for myself. Yeah, there's a bit of weight there, but, it's not like I'm trying to cut ounces, nor am I worried about the space, all of that will tuck into the back bottom corner of the bag, leaving plenty of room for about anything else. On Mar 5, 11:39 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 8:18 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/4407871186/in/pool-rivendell/ Saddlebag is an Acorn medium/large bag Park MTB-7 multi tool Park CT-5 chain tool Park SW-7 spoke wrench Park TL-1 tire lever set Rema patch kit Boeshield T9 two inner tubes three spare chain pins red/blue two-sided bandana Not shown: Swiss Army knife Brooks saddle cover For what sort of riding do you carry this? Commuting or just ridingaround? 20 miles or 200? Pavement or dirt? My around-town, sub 30 mile, pavement only kit consists of 2 tubes, QikStik, Park Tbone multitool, tire boot and saddle cover. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at
[RBW] Which Handlebar Bag?
Here's what I think I want for my Atlantis which is set up as a day bike (recently posted more Flickr pics under username ahurvitz)... hammered honjos, shellacked bars, Pasela's. A smallish handlebar bag for day rides. I have a Keven on the saddle where I keep tools, lock, mini-pump, etc. I'm looking for a bag that doesn't need a front rack and hopefully not a decaleur. Big enough for a sandwich and maybe a banana. I have a really thin windbreaker that scrunches up really small (sandwich bag size). An outside pocket or two for my cellphone. and the top large enough for a small map case (maybe 9x5.5). I want it to be at least as classy as the Keven. The new Sackville BarSack looks great, but it's larger than I want and requires the Nitto decaleur. And that makes it $200, which is too much. I actually bought a BrandV Barbox, and it was about right, but it didn't match by bike's style. Very utilitarian, but the velcro, etc., wasn't right. I bid on a couple of used Baggins bags, but they're close to $200 including the decaleur. I've looked on peterwhitecycles, VO, Carradice, Zugster (nice but too expensive), etc. I'm thinking the Acorn handlebar bag would be nice and I can adapt a map holder. I tried ordering one the other day but they sold out within a couple of hours. I'd also be happy with a vintage bag in nice condition. Plan B is to have a friend make one out of waxed cotton. And that got me thinking... how come no one makes a bag that's about 10x5x5 and can accommodate a small map case? I'm asking because my fear is that I'll figure that out once it's made/bought and I realize it's too small. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Cleaning shellacked bar tape
I shellacked the bar tape on my Atlantis a couple of years ago. Bullseye amber over bright yellow tape which turned nice and chestnutty and complements my honey Brooks saddle. What has happened is that the shellac has worn and the tape has gotten black and dirty in spots, particularly behind the hoods where my hands sometimes rest. I have re-shellacked the tape in general, but haven't had much success removing the dirt beforehand. (I know I can't remove dirt under shellac.) So, my current plan is to gently brush the surface and try to get back to the tape without the dirt. I've read that some folks have used Simple Green. Anyone have a boffo way to clean the tape before I re-shellac? Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
