[RBW] Re: FS(Bay Area): 58? Quickbeam

[Christopher Cote]

FWIW, I'm pretty sure your bike has a 56cm frame. See this thread:

https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/YAadV8nicJI/m/07IzFtYGAwAJ

Beautiful bike, I'm very tempted by it, but ~3000 miles away. I hope it 
finds a loving home!

Chris


On Tuesday, March 1, 2022 at 11:41:47 AM UTC-5 diekaiser wrote:

> Since someone asked: Standover is 82.25cm with the current 700x38 
> Panaracer EXT tires and Velocity Atlas rims.
>
>
> On Monday, February 28, 2022 at 4:20:48 PM UTC-8 diekaiser wrote:
>
>> Hey all. With regret, I'm selling my Quickbeam. Unfortunately living in a 
>> studio doesn't accommodate owning 4+ bikes and the Quickbeam didn't make 
>> the cut. I'm heading up to SF on March 5th for a birthday roadtrip to 
>> Oregon and will be there for the weekend if you would like to check it out.
>>
>>  I was having a hard time figuring out which size model it is from the 
>> Riv catalogs but it has a 57cm top tube and a 56cm seat tube (I measured 
>> center to center) which I believe puts it at the 58cm model. 
>>
>> Sale includes Frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket, seat post, and wheel 
>> set. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare set of brakes as they are moving 
>> to a different bike along with the crankset. I figured the cockpit would be 
>> purely preferential. With that said, I have a selection of nitto bars if 
>> someone would like to inquire. 
>>
>> I'd say the condition is great as in there are no dents, large scratches, 
>> etc but the decals are a bit scratched up from locking etc. The only other 
>> thing that I didn't know about when I bought it was that the front-left 
>> fender eyelet may be stripped. I'll investigate more closely soon but just 
>> wanted to mention it.
>>
>> *Details*
>> Tange Levin headset
>> Shimano BB (I don't remember the exact width but I believe it is the one 
>> that came stock)
>> Nitto 83 seat post
>> 36h Dura-Ace 7600 track hubs (fixed/fixed)
>> White Industries 19t freewheel
>> 36h Velocity Atlas rims (non-machined)
>> 700x38 Panaracer Gravelking EXTs (if you would like them).
>>
>> $1300, but if that doesn't sound reasonable I'm more than happy to chat 
>> about it.
>>
>> Here are some photos of the different iterations in which it has been set 
>> up 
>> .
>>
>> I'll add some more detail photos to the same link shortly.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[Christopher Cote]

It's interesting when you reach that point where you have to say "hey, 
maybe everyone else isn't wrong, maybe I've been brainwashed?" Just 
kidding, it isn't that bad, but I do think that Grant unfairly criticizes 
mainstream MTB bikes and riding, though. I've ridden modern full suspension 
bikes and they're nice, but my chosen level of bike grouchery is a steel 
29+ tire hardtail or rigid 26x4-5" fat bike. Low overhead, high (enough) 
performance for me.

Chris


On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 8:49:11 PM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:

> My wife and I are spending a week in northern AZ, which included a day of 
> mountain biking in Sedona. We rented fancy dual-suspension, carbon fiber 
> wonderbikes which are about as anti-Riv as you can get — and it was a 
> fantastic experience! I’ve never ridden such a beast before, and was amazed 
> at the terrain it could handle in the hands of a newcomer to this style of 
> riding. It’s the most fun I’ve had on a bike in years.
>
> I had a Gus in my shopping cart when they were last on sale, but 
> ultimately didn’t go through with the purchase because I want to be free to 
> experiment with builds that depart from the Riv way of doing things, such 
> as IGHs and disc brakes. And now I’m doubly glad I held off, because I am 
> giving serious consideration to buying a fully modern mountain bike.
>
> In retrospect I think I gave too much credence to the idea of underbiking. 
> There’s no way I could have handled this sort of terrain on a Riv-style 
> bike — I would have been walking it the entire time. And while that may be 
> the lowest common gear, as a former commenter here liked to say, it 
> wouldn’t have been nearly as fun.
>
> So I guess this is part confession and part query — who else mixes and 
> matches their Rivendells with the sort of modern ironmongery that would 
> give Grant & Co. conniptions? 
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA (but temporarily in Sedona, AZ)
>

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[RBW] Re: continuing to ride desire

[Christopher Cote]

+1 on this. For the cost of a vacation, you can probably get a fat bike (if 
you can find one!) and I'm sure there are trails good for snow biking in WI.

Chris

On Friday, January 7, 2022 at 6:56:35 AM UTC-5 stevef wrote:

> Not a Riv option but have you considered buying a Fat Bike?  
>
> On Wednesday, January 5, 2022 at 10:37:29 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:
>
>> I'm in Charlotte, NC and ride daily.  Today was 56F and sunny.  Some 
>> cooler days but there's usually a warm day not too far away.  I'm on Warm 
>> Showers if you want to come here and I have a Cheviot in the garage for you 
>> to ride.  Or Southwest and American fly your bike as a normal bag fee if 
>> boxed.  (lookup dimensions).  Vaccinations and booster required for an 
>> indoor stay.  Otherwise the backporch is always available.
>>
>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 3:53:58 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn 
>> NY wrote:
>>
>>> It's usually cheap to fly to Las Vegas, and there's abundant trails all 
>>> around, plus January/February is lovely weatherwise. Just don't gamble.
>>> -Kai
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 8:07:30 AM UTC-5 peec...@yahoo.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I ride my Atlantis MIT from March going forward until the ice and snow 
 fall.  I have lost the enthusiasm for studded tire riding in the cold.  I 
 like to ride trails primarily.  Weather here in LaCrosse, WI has turned 
 nasty and I am missing riding.  I've got the time to venture somewhere 
 warm 
 where there is abundant trail riding and am asking the group for 
 suggestions.  Thanks in advance.  I may not go anywhere, given COVID, but 
 I 
 can always dream.  Tim Petersen.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[Christopher Cote]

How about this one?

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/d/loudon-univega-viva-sport-12-speed/7358221241.html

Chris

On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 11:07:50 AM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:

> Wow this is great!
>
> The lower number Treks have been definitely on the docket-- the 620, 710, 
> etc. and I definitely appreciate the second thumbs up from you folks. My 
> wife had a 600 that she absolutely adored for many years. A little tighter 
> tire clearances than I would like on that particular model, however. I'm 
> gravitating towards the Treks because they have the 24" frame size that is 
> really in my sweet spot. But overall I'm not super picky about this all, 
> except: Steel, Crown Fork, 32-38 tires, Fun to ride. 
>
> Chris, Thanks for the critical reviews on the 720 and the stiffness. I'm 
> already pretty light as it is. 
>
> Eric, Roadini wise, not only are they not available but also the 
> dimensions are just beyond what I think will work for me. I fall right at 
> the break between the 57 and 61 and I feel like I'm going to reaching. My 
> 60 Surly CC has a 60cm TT and it's just a bit too much, I fear I'd be 
> maxing out the 57 but reaching on the 61. So I'm not so hot-to-trot on the 
> Roadini, it's the idea of the Roadini that I'm after. Something sprightly 
> that I can tinker on and throw in another IG or what have you and sprint 
> around town. 
>
> I'm in northern New England. Not a huge reservoir of things for sale 
> online, better luck at bike swaps and tag sales and consignments. 
> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 10:54:09 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> I had a Roadini, briefly, and didn’t find it a particularly inspiring 
>> bike to ride. The OS tubing is quite stout and felt like more a touring 
>> bike to me. A generic UJB (or an old Trek) will likely give a livelier 
>> ride, though you might miss the wonderful high stack of the Roadini. 
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 15, 2021, Yankeebird  wrote:
>>
>>> I would like a Roadini, but it's going to be a while, and I'm going 
>>> through some money constraints right now, and I don't mind fixing up 
>>> something else in the interim. I have a Cheviot right now, and it's my 
>>> primary main bike for everything. I also have a Surly CC that I built up 
>>> with an Alfine IGH 8 and Albatross bars, but I keep that at Mom's so when 
>>> my bro and I visit we have a bike to bang around on to blow off steam.
>>>
>>> I would really like a decent smooth steel frame that will take at least 
>>> a 32-38 tire, and I can build up either with another IGH/albatross or a 
>>> cassette and drop bars depending on my whims. Something zippier than my 
>>> Cheviot but not a straight up triathlon bike. 
>>>
>>> I'd like to get my hands on a '86 Schwinn Passage (my brother has this 
>>> bike and it's an incredible) or an early/mid 80's Trek 720. But these 
>>> things are going for PREMIUM money, almost ridiculous. I value them as 
>>> $200-300 bikes, but they are listed at $800+ and it boggles my mind. 
>>>
>>> Any other comparable frames to the above two I mentioned that I should 
>>> be looking at? What about Motobecanes? Do they have standard sizing for 
>>> components or am I going to be banging my head against the wall finding 
>>> French sized parts? 
>>>
>>> Biking is something I enjoy, and I can do basic bike MX and can learn 
>>> the stuff I don't know, but I am not deep in the weeds of dorkdom when it 
>>> comes to bikes. I have other much deeper passions. I probably won't build a 
>>> wheel, but I can replace a BB. I know what I like and what I want when I 
>>> see it, if I'm pointed in the correct direction by those who know. Hence 
>>> this query. 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>>
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a71962d4-2a50-484d-b84e-efb9b3e92964n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[Christopher Cote]

I've never seen a Specialized Sequoia in person. Maybe they're more common 
on the west coast, but around here, you'd have a better chance of finding a 
Heron Road, or Riv Rambouillet used. I've also never understood why the 
Sequoia has such status here. It's not very "Riv-ish". To me, the first 
tenet of Rivishness is a slack seat tube. Everything else is built around 
that. The Sequoia has a 74 degree STA. Sure, you can set a super setback 
seatpost, but that makes the reach to the bars way too long, and upsets the 
whole aesthetic.

Yankeebird - there's a lot more to the Trek 720 than the long chainstays. I 
personally am not a fan of the 720. If you're lusting after an old Trek, my 
preference would be the 1983 or older 620.  I had one of those, and it was 
a great bike. The 720 is a purpose built loaded tourer. It may not appear 
so to the eye, but it's built of very stout tubing, and won't ride as 
nicely unloaded as some of the other suggestions, and certainly not as nice 
as a Roadini. I don't know how it would compare to a LHT. The deal killer 
for the 720, though, are the wheels and brakes. It was built around 27" 
wheels with cantilever brakes and very narrow brake post spacing. Without 
getting too deep in the weeds, that makes it challenging to convert to 
700c. It's much easier on the 1983 620 with regular caliper brakes. The 620 
also was built of lighter tubing.

Where are you located? Have you found any bikes for sale locally that you 
are interested in?

Chris


On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 2:05:45 AM UTC-4 Jay P wrote:

> You have at least two great options that are easy to find (with a little 
> patience):
>
> 1)  Specialized Sequoia, earlier the better
>
> Obvio.  For all the reasons.  But I think this is better :
>
>
> 2)  Trek 710 (1983 or before, earlier maybe better but not necessarily)  
>
> I"m surprised these don't get higher prices as it is the perfect all 
> around road bike -- Rivendells surely improve on them but
>
> I've seen some frames/forks clear up to 700x40, but you need to triple 
> confirm because sometimes just barely 35mm. Often already have rack mounts. 
>  I've set up many people on these and almost uniformly superb riding bikes 
> -- lively, fun, practical, probably supple.   If you're feeling flush, have 
> a framebuilder improve it (downtube cable stops, better brake cable 
> routing, 2nd and/or 3rd water bottle cage mounts (triple mount on seat tube 
> for the King manything ti cage?), rear der. stop?) and get it powder coated 
> or painted.   Phenomenal bikes.  I'm surprised we all aren't competing for 
> these.  
>
> + make sure you have proper stem, handlebars, wheels, and tires
>
> A nice 710 (without the framebuilding stuff) + parts (assuming you do the 
> work + have some parts around) = maybe $500-800
>
> Best value around !
>
> Wishing you well 
> Jay P.
> Kauai 
>
>
>
>  
>
> On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 8:45:29 AM UTC-7 Yankeebird wrote:
>
>> I would like a Roadini, but it's going to be a while, and I'm going 
>> through some money constraints right now, and I don't mind fixing up 
>> something else in the interim. I have a Cheviot right now, and it's my 
>> primary main bike for everything. I also have a Surly CC that I built up 
>> with an Alfine IGH 8 and Albatross bars, but I keep that at Mom's so when 
>> my bro and I visit we have a bike to bang around on to blow off steam.
>>
>> I would really like a decent smooth steel frame that will take at least a 
>> 32-38 tire, and I can build up either with another IGH/albatross or a 
>> cassette and drop bars depending on my whims. Something zippier than my 
>> Cheviot but not a straight up triathlon bike. 
>>
>> I'd like to get my hands on a '86 Schwinn Passage (my brother has this 
>> bike and it's an incredible) or an early/mid 80's Trek 720. But these 
>> things are going for PREMIUM money, almost ridiculous. I value them as 
>> $200-300 bikes, but they are listed at $800+ and it boggles my mind. 
>>
>> Any other comparable frames to the above two I mentioned that I should be 
>> looking at? What about Motobecanes? Do they have standard sizing for 
>> components or am I going to be banging my head against the wall finding 
>> French sized parts? 
>>
>> Biking is something I enjoy, and I can do basic bike MX and can learn the 
>> stuff I don't know, but I am not deep in the weeds of dorkdom when it comes 
>> to bikes. I have other much deeper passions. I probably won't build a 
>> wheel, but I can replace a BB. I know what I like and what I want when I 
>> see it, if I'm pointed in the correct direction by those who know. Hence 
>> this query. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[Christopher Cote]

Good point about the 27" to 700c conversion. My Univega Viva Sport 
originally had 27" wheels, and now has 700c wheels. Plenty of adjustment on 
the standard reach brakes, and it now has room for at least 35mm tires, 
maybe 38. 

I've had a bunch of 80s road bikes, and have yet to run into one with a bad 
headset, but YMMV. 80s MTBs on the other hand... well, they often lived a 
harder life.

Finally, the OP is looking for a Roadini replacement, but mentions the Trek 
720. The 720 is a pretty serious touring machine, and not really comparable 
to the Roadini. I focused in on the Roadini part, and as such, was 
suggesting 80s sport touring bikes. 

Chris


On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 2:58:49 PM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne 
wrote:

> You may have success with a variety of steel frames initially built for 
> 27" wheels and caliper brakes.  I've successfully converted three such 
> frames to 700x32-38 with Tektro 559 or 539 caliper brakes.  I'm 6'5" and 
> because of the difficulty in finding tall enough frames I've been entirely 
> opportunistic for such projects but still have 2 of the 3 conversions 
> essentially serving collectively as stand-ins for a 
> Roadini/Hillborne/Homer/Quickbeam.  Mine are all lower end models with 
> non-premium tubesets so not exactly comparable to the more desirable models 
> with higher end steel but they still function the same for my purposes.
>
> A word of caution if you find yourself considering any lower end frames 
> you find locally that many take JIS headsets with 30.0 cups and 27.0 crown 
> race (vs. 30.2 cups and 26.4 crown currently more common)  One of my many 
> lessons during my own evolution as a DIY bike tinkerer.  Not an issue if 
> you find something with a good/serviceable headset and you'll stick with 
> the stock fork, of course.
>
> My 700c conversions were on the following frames (in order of acquisition:)
>
> '87 Schwinn Traveler / '83 Schwinn Traveler / late 70's mystery Raleigh 
> 'DeLuxe' import from Denmark.
>
> The '87 Schwinn was a curbside freebie and my own gateway into DIY bike 
> tinkering.  Turns out this one was rather crudely constructed (headtube was 
> admittedly pretty cool after discovering it's a faux-lugged single cast 
> piece but the top and downtubes weren't even mitred and just brazed in and 
> smashed/bent for steerer clearance.  '83 Schwinn Traveler is Taiwan made by 
> Giant and has much cleaner construction, fits me better being a 27" frame 
> size vs. the 25" '87 Traveler which was big enough with long stem and drops 
> but ended up cracking seatstay on the '87 anyway.
>
> It's kind of interesting comparing these two Travelers side by side.  Both 
> of these 80's Schwinns had 126mm rear spacing, JIS headsets, typical 68mm 
> british bottom bracket shells.  '87 had semi-horizontal dropouts with 
> derailer tab and downtube lever bosses with bolt on under bottom bracket 
> cable guide.  The earlier '83 Traveler has no derailer tab and clamp on 
> downtube shifter bosses, and brazed on cable guides on the top of the BB 
> shell.  I picked up a bolt on derailer mount to eventually be able to run a 
> multispeed wheel from the wheel I had upgraded on the '87 Schwinn but 
> otherwise have been running the '83 as a single speed/Quickbeam substitute 
> in the interim and had considered making this a IGH build instead with the 
> lack of derailer tab and brazed on BB cable guide... also as a 3spd 
> replacement since my mystery Raleigh project completely caught me by 
> surprise.
>
> I won't get into the weeds with this one here since it's not necessarily 
> relevant to your search but The Raleigh was bought cheap with little more 
> than a few photos showing a large frame with locking fork.  It was intended 
> to be a frame replacement/upsize to just move a typical 3sp build from a 
> too small 21" frame Raleigh Sports into the larger frame I found.  Turns 
> out the frame was even larger than I initially thought and easily fits 
> 700x35 - likely 38mm with fender if I could add some clearance to the 
> chainstays, but vertical clearance with current 35mm and Tektro brakes is 
> nearly 2cm.  I've essentially made this my commuter/lock-up/basket bike (I 
> don't have a commute but this is the one I grab for any utility riding.)
>
> Probably worth checking out any local co-ops or bike kitchens in your 
> area.  Central New Jersey area has Second Life Bikes in Asbury Park and in 
> Trenton there is the Boys and Girls Club Bike Exchange that both run on 
> donations/volunteer support. I used to have an office within a 15min ride 
> of Second Life Bikes in Asbury where I'd make an occasional lunch hour trip 
> to both drop off parts donations or dig through the parts bins for anything 
> specific in need (and successfully found necessary seatposts/stems/levers 
> on several occasions plus the 27" '83 Schwinn I just happened to spot 
> hanging in the rafters one day.)
>
> Best of luck!
>
> Brian Cole
> Lawrence NJ
>
> On Wednesday, 

[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[Christopher Cote]

Look for a Univega. I have a Viva Sport that is eerily similar to my 
Rambouillet. Like within a few mm in most dimensions. It's a little 
heavier, not as well made, and not made from as nice steel, but it still 
rides really nicely. Gobs of tire clearance, and horizontal dropouts for 
IGH (or singlespeed) use. Not all Univegas are Riv-like, so do your 
homework and measure carefully. You want something from the sport-touring 
section of the spectrum. Not a loaded tourer, or a racy criterium-style 
bike.

Bridgestones, of course are a lot like a Roadini. The RB series is almost 
always overpriced on the used market due to the cult status, and tire 
clearance is not as good. The older numeric series bikes may have some like 
my Univega, but I'm not an expert on those models.

Late 90s and early 'oughts Lemonds are really good, too. Tire clearance 
will be an issue, though.

Really, any 80s UJB (universal Japanese bike) like Miyata, Nishiki, 
Centurion, etc will have promise. Look at things like tire clearance, does 
it use standard (not short) reach brakes, measure the seat tube and head 
tube angles with an angle finder app on your phone, and pick a good one. 
Good luck!

Chris


On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 11:45:29 AM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:

> I would like a Roadini, but it's going to be a while, and I'm going 
> through some money constraints right now, and I don't mind fixing up 
> something else in the interim. I have a Cheviot right now, and it's my 
> primary main bike for everything. I also have a Surly CC that I built up 
> with an Alfine IGH 8 and Albatross bars, but I keep that at Mom's so when 
> my bro and I visit we have a bike to bang around on to blow off steam.
>
> I would really like a decent smooth steel frame that will take at least a 
> 32-38 tire, and I can build up either with another IGH/albatross or a 
> cassette and drop bars depending on my whims. Something zippier than my 
> Cheviot but not a straight up triathlon bike. 
>
> I'd like to get my hands on a '86 Schwinn Passage (my brother has this 
> bike and it's an incredible) or an early/mid 80's Trek 720. But these 
> things are going for PREMIUM money, almost ridiculous. I value them as 
> $200-300 bikes, but they are listed at $800+ and it boggles my mind. 
>
> Any other comparable frames to the above two I mentioned that I should be 
> looking at? What about Motobecanes? Do they have standard sizing for 
> components or am I going to be banging my head against the wall finding 
> French sized parts? 
>
> Biking is something I enjoy, and I can do basic bike MX and can learn the 
> stuff I don't know, but I am not deep in the weeds of dorkdom when it comes 
> to bikes. I have other much deeper passions. I probably won't build a 
> wheel, but I can replace a BB. I know what I like and what I want when I 
> see it, if I'm pointed in the correct direction by those who know. Hence 
> this query. 
>

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[RBW] Re: i pinched seat tube putting on problem solvers brand front derailleur clamp

[Christopher Cote]

I don't know what you used for a torque wrench, but I find the click-type 
often need to be used a click or two after being set, before it will click 
over at the set torque. Internal sticktion or something like that. I like 
to set the torque wrench, and then test it on some bolt that I know is 
torqued way more than the current setting. The swingarm bolt on my DR650 
motorcycle is often used for this, but I'm sure you can find something 
handy if you don't have one of those in the shop.

Chris


On Friday, September 3, 2021 at 12:59:34 AM UTC-4 JP wrote:

> On unhealthy air days i've been playing around - trying out different 
> parts to see what happens and learn about maintenance.  
>
> I have a torque wrench but not a lot of experience with it.  When putting 
> on a braze on clamp adapter i made a little pinch in and seat tube and that 
> makes me a bit sad.The clamp said to use 4 NM and that's what i sent 
> the wrench at.
>
> It's a steel sam h. that will likely be fine - but any tips  to avoid this 
> type of damage going forward?
>
> (like i was thinking should i tighten slower or lubricate the clamp or 
> something?). 
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> JP
>

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[RBW] Re: sticky thing for keeping headbadge on bike

[Christopher Cote]

I've never had much long term success with silicone adhesives on metal. 
3M's whole business is making things to stick this to that. Their auto trim 
tape is made to stick metal do-dads to paint. It's the perfect product for 
reattaching a headbadge to a bike. A $5 roll is easily available and a 
lifetime supply.

Chris


On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 1:21:08 PM UTC-4 Scott McLain wrote:

> I am with Garth.  Silicone adhesive seams like it would be better than two 
> way tape/adhesive.  Just my $0.02.
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 8:33:57 AM UTC-6 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> I've had to reattach all the glued-on headbadges on my Riv bikes. I use 
>> 3M auto trim tape, available at auto parts stores, and of course at Amazon. 
>> Works perfectly, and comes in reasonably sized (and priced) rolls. I find 
>> many uses around the house and shop for the remainder of the roll. 
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 31, 2021 at 8:46:30 PM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:
>>
>>> My cheviot fell off my Cheviot. Thankfully, I saw it about to go and 
>>> grabbed it, sheepie is not sitting forlornly on the side of a road 
>>> somewhere. 
>>>
>>> I need to replace the double-sided sticky rubber thing they use to keep 
>>> the headbadges on. Anyone know what it is, or have a better solution? 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: sticky thing for keeping headbadge on bike

[Christopher Cote]

I've had to reattach all the glued-on headbadges on my Riv bikes. I use 3M 
auto trim tape, available at auto parts stores, and of course at Amazon. 
Works perfectly, and comes in reasonably sized (and priced) rolls. I find 
many uses around the house and shop for the remainder of the roll. 

Chris


On Tuesday, August 31, 2021 at 8:46:30 PM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:

> My cheviot fell off my Cheviot. Thankfully, I saw it about to go and 
> grabbed it, sheepie is not sitting forlornly on the side of a road 
> somewhere. 
>
> I need to replace the double-sided sticky rubber thing they use to keep 
> the headbadges on. Anyone know what it is, or have a better solution? 
>

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[RBW] Re: The Man with Rubber Pedals

[Christopher Cote]

That is great! Truly nothing new under the sun. Did they really have bikes 
that weighed less than 20lbs in 1896? I wonder if that is as much hyperbole 
as " From crank to crank his tread is eighteen inches"? Also wondering what 
NTS means.

Chris


On Sunday, August 29, 2021 at 9:19:14 PM UTC-4 Nick Payne wrote:

> It seems narrow Q (tread) was a thing even 125 years ago. This poem is 
> from the October 17, 1896 issue of the Australian magazine "The Bulletin":
>
> *The Man With Rubber Pedals*
>  
>  *by Montague Grover*
>  
>  It has all the latest fixings — barrel hubs and narrow tread; 
>  It weighs twenty pounds or under, is as rigid as the dead; 
>  It’s the very newest pattern, and the very latest grade, 
>  And it cost you all the cash that in the last three months you made. 
>  You lead it from the agent’s, and your bosom swells with pride 
>  As you lift it from the kerbstone and you start its maiden ride... 
>  Like the lightning past the tram-cars, cabs, and everything you’ve sped, 
>  When you see a man with rubber pedals plugging on ahead. 
>
>  He is forty years of age, and on an antiquated crock, 
>  Sitting upright as a soldier and as bandy as a jock;
>  He is wobbly, he is shifty, and he scarce knows how to ride; 
>  His gear is less than fifty, and his handle-bars are wide. 
>  From crank to crank his tread is eighteen inches, and his frame 
>  Is a pattern that was popular when first the safety came; 
>  And as you gain upon him you are thinking, “I must show 
>  How a good man on a jigger that is up to date can go.” 
>
>  You fold your arms and pass him in an attitude of grace, 
>  When the beatific smile upon his open whiskered face 
>  Makes your conscience somehow smite you as across his track you whiz 
>  Lest you show him p’raps too cruelly what an utter mug he is; 
>  And when you think that he’s about a hundred yards behind 
>  That man with rubber pedals goes completely from your mind, 
>  Till a darkness at your elbow and a rattling on your ear 
>  Shows the man with rubber pedals still is battling in the rear. 
>
>  Then you think with some resentment, "This is not as it should be; 
>  This man with rubber pedals taking all his pace from me; 
>  Such presumption is opposed to all the canons of the game, 
>  And if I show him up he’s only got himself to blame.” 
>  So you drop your arms and lightly touch the neatly-nickeled head 
>  With some ankling calculated just to kill that fellow dead, 
>  But after half-a-mile you are astounded still to feel 
>  That man with rubber pedals hanging calmly on your wheel. 
>
>  You argue out the question and you’re bustled to confess 
>  That the man is what is technically known as N.T.S.
>  Still for such as he to push you is a thing you can’t allow— 
>  He has asked for pace, and, Holy Moses, won’t he get it now? 
>  You drop your head twelve inches, grip your handles tight and lift, 
>  And as your calves and biceps swell, by Jingo, don’t you shift! 
>  Then you reckon that you’ve left him and it’s nearly time to slack 
>  When you hear the cursed rattle of his mud-guards at your back. 
>
>  He can hold his own at sprinting—that is proved beyond a doubt, 
>  So the only way to beat him is to simply wear him out. 
>  You set a nice two-forty beat, and to yourself you hiss: 
>  "That man with rubber pedals can’t stand many miles of this."
>  Then the townships travel past you and the mile stones rise ahead 
>  Till your thighs are working stiffly and you’re feeling pretty dead; 
>  Still you force your ped’ling even and your handlebars you clinch, 
>  But that man with rubber pedals hasn’t shifted—not an inch. 
>
>  At last, in view of “business” and the “fast approaching night,” 
>  You decide ’tis best for you to take the turning to the right; 
>  And as you swing around he passes upright as the just, 
>  With that beatific smile of his still glowing through the dust. 
>  Are you riding to Sans Souci? He’ll be there to “do you bad.” 
>  He is on St Kilda Road; and on each Western camel pad. 
>  Be you cycling in the country, be you cycling in the town, 
>  That man with rubber pedals will be there to take you down.
>

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[RBW] Re: Gus Boots Forks Garage Sale - Ideas?

[Christopher Cote]

Well, if you put one of these on an old "non suspension corrected" 26" MTB 
frame that expects a 405mm A-C crown, and use a 27.5" front wheel, it will 
lift the front end about 10mm, which is a good thing IME with old MTBs. Not 
sure how the increased rake and larger wheel will affect things. Maybe the 
decreased wheel flop will "cancel out" the effect of the larger wheel? Wild 
speculation on my part. I have a 1992 Trek 930 that would be a good 
candidate, but I've got too many irons in the bike project fire right now.

Chris

On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 10:27:00 AM UTC-4 John Johnson wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I've seen the Gus forks up on the Riv site garage sale section. I'm 
> curious if anyone has any ideas for a good frame that these could be used 
> with. The 399 axle to crown is pretty short for a 27.5 frame, and even 
> short for a lot of 1 1/8 inch 26" frames. 
>
> Any creative thoughts on a good frame that would work without throwing off 
> the bike's geometry?
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> John
>

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Re: [RBW] Interesting Riv

[Christopher Cote]

I seem to recall reading that when Rivendell was starting out, before they 
locked in Waterford as the builder, they had sample frames made by a few 
builders. The only name I can recall is Richard Sachs. I wonder if this is 
a sample frame made by a builder identified as "B".

Chris

On Thursday, July 1, 2021 at 11:04:35 AM UTC-4 dub_...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the comments team.
>
> The serial is B 1 
>
> Some more pics now its cleaned up. 
>
> Fork is def original to frame and in keeping with the crown used in this 
> era as far as I can see.
>
> On Sunday, 27 June 2021 at 16:18:14 UTC+10 Ian A wrote:
>
>> The frame has some of the details of a Canti Long Low without the Joe 
>> Bell paint. The fork has some type of mid fork braze on (looking at the 
>> photos on mobile). Mid fork braze ons weren't really a Riv thing in the 
>> beginning, were they? It almost looks like the frame was given an 
>> available/appropriate fork. Probably a nicely made fork nonetheless.
>>
>> It is clearly a quality bike and probably rides wonderfully. I rather 
>> like the patina too. 
>>
>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>
>> On Friday, June 25, 2021 at 11:17:27 AM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> The lugs look right, but you're right about the fork. Maybe that's why 
>>> it didn't turn into a production frame this way? But yeah, we need the 
>>> serial number. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 25, 2021 at 7:57:47 AM UTC-7 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
 The "Protovelo" stickers were later - maybe '05 or so...  they were 
 created to sell frames which were laying about in the warehouse. I've 
 never 
 seen those applied to bikes which weren't pretty close to production 
 models 
 - might have used a different dropout without fender/rack mounts or had 
 braze-ons for cable routing in a weird place. Most I've seen had received 
 quality powder coating or paint.

 It does seem to have a "star" under the bottle boss, but Riv were't the 
 only ones doing those types of details. 

 On Thursday, June 24, 2021 at 6:13:24 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

>
> I always thought Rivendell marked their prototypes as Protovelo
> On Thursday, June 24, 2021 at 7:14:13 AM UTC-4 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> I had a similar Road Custom that was designed around 700 x 28s 
>> w/cantis. This was before longer reach dual pivots were introduced. Steve
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 2:49 AM dub...@hotmail.com <
>> dub...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Team,
>>>
>>> Purchased this one on ebay and the story is that its a Prototype 
>>> Rivendell 
>>>
>>> Anyone have any ideas on it's back ground?
>>>
>>> SN M1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>> Adrian the Aussie
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>> send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS Grilver 52 Clem H

[Christopher Cote]

The Atlantis is a close second to the Clem, but I like the Clem's clean 
lines. I'm not much of a road cyclist anymore, and I haven't really warmed 
up to the step-through designs, so that leaves the Clem H as the top 
contender. Now if only it came with disc brakes... (ducking for cover!)

Chris


On Sunday, June 20, 2021 at 6:21:49 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I do like the two bolt design of that stem especially with wide bars that 
> allow a good bit of torque from pulling. I had to really tighten the single 
> bolt stem on my first Clem with the Bosco bars. I would have jumped on an 
> Atlantis in a heartbeat had one been available recently when I bought the 
> Clem H frameset. Although, the price of the Clem is nice and it seems close 
> to the Atlantis geometry, just without some of the lugs. What don't you 
> like about the other Rivendell models?
> Doug
>
> On Sun, Jun 20, 2021 at 5:44 PM Christopher Cote  
> wrote:
>
>> Looks like a vintage Suntour MTB quill stem.
>>
>> Signed: Chris, who thinks that a Grilver 52cm Clem H is the only 
>> Rivendell made in the last 20 years he's interested in..
>>
>> On Friday, June 18, 2021 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>>> I'm building up a Clem now and am wondering what your stem/bar set up is 
>>> on this one. Looks like a quill to threadless adapter?
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 18, 2021 at 1:18:25 AM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_0308.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, June 17, 2021 at 10:14:30 PM UTC-7 Alex K wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just posted this on Craigslist.  I grabbed it off of CL for $1500 last 
>>>>> week hoping it would fit my buddy who's been looking for the perfect bike 
>>>>> for a while.  I thought this was it, but it was a little too big.  Hoping 
>>>>> to find a good home for her.  Not in a hurry to sell, hoping somebody is 
>>>>> really pumped to find a Clem and will appreciate this bike as much as I 
>>>>> do 
>>>>> my Clem H.I bought it with no seat/pedals.  Added a Brooks Ti with 
>>>>> Selle cutouts that I paid $250 for and some new-ish MKS pedals.  I have 
>>>>> Soma Cazadero tires to throw in.  Asking $1800 (with seat extra tires and 
>>>>> pedals)
>>>>> email me at acksf78 at gmail for pictures.  Hoping for local sale in 
>>>>> the SF Bay Area.  Will consider shipping if you've really been looking 
>>>>> for 
>>>>> one of these for a while.  Not sure how much that costs, but assuming 
>>>>> it's 
>>>>> in the $200 range.  Not in a hurry to sell or make any money off this 
>>>>> thing, just hoping it finds a good home.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>> Alex
>>>>>
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[RBW] Re: FS Grilver 52 Clem H

[Christopher Cote]

Looks like a vintage Suntour MTB quill stem.

Signed: Chris, who thinks that a Grilver 52cm Clem H is the only Rivendell 
made in the last 20 years he's interested in..

On Friday, June 18, 2021 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I'm building up a Clem now and am wondering what your stem/bar set up is 
> on this one. Looks like a quill to threadless adapter?
> Doug
>
> On Friday, June 18, 2021 at 1:18:25 AM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_0308.jpeg]
>>
>> On Thursday, June 17, 2021 at 10:14:30 PM UTC-7 Alex K wrote:
>>
>>> Just posted this on Craigslist.  I grabbed it off of CL for $1500 last 
>>> week hoping it would fit my buddy who's been looking for the perfect bike 
>>> for a while.  I thought this was it, but it was a little too big.  Hoping 
>>> to find a good home for her.  Not in a hurry to sell, hoping somebody is 
>>> really pumped to find a Clem and will appreciate this bike as much as I do 
>>> my Clem H.I bought it with no seat/pedals.  Added a Brooks Ti with 
>>> Selle cutouts that I paid $250 for and some new-ish MKS pedals.  I have 
>>> Soma Cazadero tires to throw in.  Asking $1800 (with seat extra tires and 
>>> pedals)
>>> email me at acksf78 at gmail for pictures.  Hoping for local sale in the 
>>> SF Bay Area.  Will consider shipping if you've really been looking for one 
>>> of these for a while.  Not sure how much that costs, but assuming it's in 
>>> the $200 range.  Not in a hurry to sell or make any money off this thing, 
>>> just hoping it finds a good home.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>> Alex
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Water Bottle and Cage Talk

[Christopher Cote]

I think it depends on your position on the bike, bar sweep, stem length, 
ETT, etc. I knee the Randi Jo Fab bartender while standing to climb on any 
bike I've tried it on. It's not a huge deal, in my experience, but it does 
happen.

Chris


On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 8:21:03 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> David, no you wouldn’t, I promise. I’ve never even been close to doing 
> that, and I have long legs. It only appears that way in the photo…
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 7, 2021, at 5:12 PM, David Person  wrote:
>
> I like the idea of a stem bag like the one on Leah's bike, but I would 
> wind up kneeing it when standing out of the saddle to pedal up a hill.
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 1:04:12 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Keith,
>> I just saw the Rivendell Big Jim today and it looks good. Agreed that 
>> this being a Riv related forum we should mention their products for sure.
>> Doug
>>
>> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 3:59:46 PM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Since we're on the RBW owners forum, and since everyone might not be 
>>> aware, Riv recently started carrying a 2nd nalgene-size cage.  There is now 
>>> a big "Jim" in addition to an even larger Twofish.  I just got a Jim last 
>>> week.  Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but can report on durability / 
>>> retention once I do.  It's well-made, so I can't forsee any issues:
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/accessories?page=4
>>>
>>> I like carrying the weight as low and centered as possible.
>>>
>>> Also, i still like and use a couple of older Blackburn cages for 2-Liter 
>>> dIsposable water bottles, from before all the new big bottle and cargo 
>>> cages became available.  They were designed by WTB or, presumably, Charlie 
>>> Cunningham.  Since few bikes had triple bosses at the time, they went 
>>> unnoticed and can be found on ebay and the like fairly regularly:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.wtb.com/blogs/wtb/12046329-throwback-thursdays-1993-wtb-blackburn-bomber
>>>
>>> I think they are, or have, reintroduced something similar.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 8:44:52 AM UTC-6 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I keep it more traditional with the 3rd bottle cage under the down 
 tube. I drink and sweat a lot and go through a 21oz bottle every 45 min or 
 so when putting in an effort. 

 Lots of rave reviews of the VO Mojave and larger Nalgene style bottles 
 and I should probably consider getting myself one sometime. Another 
 traditional looking option is the Widefoot LiterCage for the big bottles. 
 Soma now offers huge water bottles that fit in traditional cages. They are 
 very long.

 Re: cold water on a hot day that's not a concern with the level of 
 effort or amount of water I'm drinking. All I've heard is it takes more 
 effort for your body to digest it because it has to warm it up. Maybe 
 that's a concern with athletes but not me. I'd say go for it, drink the 
 cold stuff!

 Kainalu, love the WuTang reference. 

 Pat in DC
 [image: 20210209_121623-01.jpeg]

 On Sunday, June 6, 2021 at 9:24:30 PM UTC-5 exliontamer wrote:

> Hey Doug. I'm in the humid south as well and will vouch for the 
> Hydroflask bottles being great for the heat and humidity. They don't 
> sweat 
> so you can throw them in a bag with your phone/stuff without worrying 
> about 
> moisture. If cold, room temp, or hot water is your thing it will keep it 
> that temperature accordingly. That thing that Bicycle Belle has looks 
> rad/perfect for that use.
> As far as handlebar bags go, I use them on my Albatross bars all of 
> the time. I have an old Riv bag made by Duluth(the Hobo Bag I think) and 
> a 
> small Sackville one with velcro. Both work great but the Duluth bag is 
> more 
> accessible during a ride. From my experience if the attachment points 
> aren't stiff and/or the zipper is flimsy it can be hard to unzip while in 
> motion. The Gilles Berthoud bags that open towards the rider are 
> definitely 
> the best in this regard but the hardware, mounting, and cost can be 
> outlandish. Hope that helps.
> On Sunday, June 6, 2021 at 7:42:29 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Doug, there are a lot of nice handlebar bags out there with different 
>> features. For big bottles I like my Oveja Negra the best. For subtle, 
>> understated classiness I like my Cycle Cats products. I don’t thing Greg 
>> Newland is making bags for sale right now. Now that I have these, no one 
>> in 
>> my household wants anything else. 
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2021, at 16:24, Doug H.  wrote:
>>
>> Leah,
>>
>> It's hot and humid here in the sticky south so I go through lots of 
>> water too. I like the handlebar bag/pouch idea and may look at one of 
>> those.
>> Doug
>>
>> On Sunday, June 6, 2021 at 4:30:15 PM 

[RBW] Re: Regrets

[Christopher Cote]

I regret selling my first nice mountain bike, a 1996ish Trek 930, mostly 
for nostalgic reasons. I doubt I'd ride it much if I still had it. Same for 
the Heron Road that I had. Beautiful bike, but the Rambouillet I replaced 
it with is much better for my needs. I really regret having cantilever 
bosses brazed onto a scruffy old Bob Jackson bike and having it painted. 
The bosses were too narrow to allow the brakes to be set up well, the 
painter completely botched the look I wanted with the new paintjob, and 
there really was nothing wrong with the DiaCompe centerpull brakes I had on 
it before. I sold it in disgust. I have way too many bikes now, but I like 
them all and know if I sold any of them, I'd regret it. For now, I have the 
space to store them, so I'll hang on to them all.

Chris


On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 12:48:37 PM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:

> Nice post by Igor at VO regarding his "forever bike" and all the 
> adventures and memories the bike has for him.  He rarely rides it these 
> days, but knows if he sold it, he would soon regret it.
>
>
> https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2021/05/lets-talk-forever-bikes.html?mc_cid=da12a3dbd7_eid=52b5303d5c
>
>
> On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 7:17:22 AM UTC-7 reca...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I've not regretted getting rid of almost any bike I've had as I learn 
>> more and as my riding style and preferences change, but the only bike I 
>> regret selling was a Jitensha Studios Shula. 
>>
>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 3:56:06 PM UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>
>>> In my seemingly endless search to optimize my bike collection, fill 
>>> gaps, and try new and cool bikes, I recently realized how many bikes I've 
>>> had in my life and how many questionable decisions I've made. There are a 
>>> number of choices I've made, for better or worse, to sell bikes in order to 
>>> make room for other bikes, downsize, or simply because I felt they weren't 
>>> getting the use they deserved.
>>>
>>> My question to the group is: what bike or bikes do you most regret 
>>> selling, trading, or giving away?  
>>>
>>> For me, as you may know, I absolutely regret selling my Roadini, and an 
>>> old Marinoni touring bike that I originally thought was too big for me (I 
>>> realize now how wrong I was, and am currently in the process of replacing 
>>> it!).
>>>
>>> Would love to hear what regrets others here have!
>>>
>>> <3
>>> Damien
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Shimano discontinuing rim-brake hubs?

[Christopher Cote]

There is no practical reason at all that you couldn't run a disc-brake hub 
with a rim-brake rim. Maybe you can make a valid objection for aesthetic 
reasons, but it's hardly a reason for concern, IMHO. 

Chris


On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:01:36 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Per Grant's blog:
>
> *Shimano is going to stop making  middle-to-upper end non-disc brake hubs 
> soon, road and mountain. *
>
> Thank God there is always Phil Wood. And no doubt vast quantities of old 
> Shimano rim-brake hubs buried in garages worldwide.
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>

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[RBW] Re: Beginners SLR camera?

[Christopher Cote]

While the Pentax K1000 is the go-to beginner's manual film SLR, I had one 
for many years and was never really jazzed with the results. I have my 
father's Olympus OM-10 now, and it seems to produce much sharper images 
than the K1000 ever did. Maybe my K was bad? Anyway, I'd recommend the 
OM-10, as long as you get the optional manual shutter speed control module. 
Without it, the camera operates in aperture priority (nothing wrong with 
that, it's my preferred way to shoot), but the ability to go fully manual 
is really nice. The OM-10 is not fully mechanical, the shutter is operated 
electro-mechanically and requires a couple of cheap, readily available 
button cell batteries that last for years.

Chris

On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 2:11:29 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> My daughter has come to like film photography during her first
> attempts using a high quality borrowed manual SLR.
>
> I'd like to get her an SLR, preferably manual, preferably with a
> flash, of decent quality but not too expensive; and I have no idea
> what "expensive" means here.
>
> She would also be happy with a point and shoot, but I think that if
> affordable that a minimally decent manual with flash would be more
> satisfying.
>
> I know many of you are photographers; what would you recommend, and
> why? Manual or automatic?
>
> I might be in the market for a decent used camera for her 20th birthday.
>
> My posted photographs are really bad, I know that, and this despite
> some care. She might be able to help me learn how to take better ones.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>

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[RBW] Re: Shortish reach drops with long returns

[Christopher Cote]

Check out the Soma Highway One. I think that is exactly what you're looking 
for.

Chris

On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 12:52:46 PM UTC-4 Kevin wrote:

>
> I like the hoods position that wider, shorter reach drop bars, paired with 
> modern longer reach brake levers provides. However, several of the these 
> I've tried (Noodle 48, RM-013 (I do tend to prefer a silver 26.0 clamp)) 
> seem to have correspondingly short returns, such that I can barely get a 
> full hand comfortably on the flatter portion of the drops.
>
> Lengths of the returns is not typically a measurement noted anywhere in 
> description/specs, so I am seeking out some real world experiences. Anybody 
> have similar experiences and are there bars that have worked well for you?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Christopher Cote]

I also have one of those Park cable cutters, and it works great. One of 
those things that after finally I purchased it, I couldn't believe that I 
made do with diagonal cutting pliers for years. I don't have my CN-10 in 
front of my now, but I've never seen any pliers, cutters, scissors, or any 
of the like with a washer in between the two halves. Maybe try adding a 
drop of oil to the pivot, and snug it down? Otherwise, I'd echo Jeff and 
say to contact Park.

Chris


On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 4:17:41 PM UTC-4 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> That's interesting, and raises the question of whether their customer 
> support might be relied on for other things.
>
> I own many Park tools (spanners, hex drivers, spoke wrenches etc), but 
> only a few with moving parts: The PAW-12 crescent wrench, the CCP-2 dual 
> 22mm (Campy/Shimano)/23mm (TA) square-taper crank extractor, and my bête 
> noire, the CN-10 cable/housing cutter.
>
> I bought this cutter brand-spanking new, and it's been terrible from day 
> one. When the pivot bolt is tightened, it's too tight to close for the cut; 
> when you loosen it enough for smooth travel, it leaves a ragged edge on the 
> housing and pulls threads out of cables. There's no middle ground; there 
> should obviously be some sort of thin Teflon washer (or even brass) between 
> the two arms of the cutter, so that you get smooth travel but the arms are 
> close enough for a clean cut. To me, this seems like a fatal design flaw. 
> For decades, Felco and VAR have made cable cutters that work, and I've 
> heard good things about Shimano's cutters; why would a brand that makes 
> premium products design cutters with so much friction in the system that it 
> doesn't perform the function for which it's designed?
>
> I've never just thrown it out. I just stick it/throw it back into my 
> toolbox, take it out forgetfully every six months to cut a housing, make a 
> ghastly mess of the job, and get mad all over again. It's never occurred to 
> me to phone Park and complain about the fact that their expensive cutter 
> doesn't work at all.
>
> Peter "ten times bit, not shy enough" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 12:06:45 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
>> time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
>> they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
>> service in my book.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
>> PA wrote:
>>
>>> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
>>> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
>>> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
>>> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
>>> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
>>> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
>>> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
>>> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
>>> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
>>> bucks.
>>>
>>> [image: Park1.jpg]
>>>
>>> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
>>> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
>>> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>>>
>>> Marty
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Christopher Cote]

I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
service in my book.

Chris


On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
wrote:

> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
> bucks.
>
> [image: Park1.jpg]
>
> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>
> Marty
>

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Re: [RBW] replace top tube to improve ride

[Christopher Cote]

This reminds me of a, possibly apocryphal, story about a major motorcycle 
manufacturer that was testing a new motocross bike. The test rider 
complained that it didn't turn in well, and one of the engineers grabbed a 
cordless drill and drilled a hole in the frame behind the headtube. After a 
few more laps, the test rider proclaimed the handling issues fixed.

I don't advocate drilling holes in your frame, but like John said, good 
tires will make a huge difference in how the bike rides.

Chris


On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:33:29 AM UTC-4 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> I asked my local frame builder about this idea, and here's what he had to 
> say:
>
> This is not something I would recommend doing.  Since the frame is TIG 
> welded my concern would be the integrity of both the head tube and seat 
> tube after the top tube was removed and the weld remnants filed away.  TIG 
> welding concentrates a lot of heat at the weld area, which can affect the 
> tubes integrity and so putting it through another heat cycle by brzing in 
> another top tube is less than wise.  There are a lot of other options to 
> "liven" up the feeling of a bike.  Wheels and more importantly tires play a 
> huge role.
>
> I'm going to take his advice and leave the frame alone.
>
> On Sat, Mar 20, 2021 at 3:02 PM Clark Fitzgerald  
> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone ever replaced a top tube on a steel bike to change the ride 
>> characteristics? Can you tell the difference on a bike with a flexible top 
>> tube? Could it make a difference on a bike with 2 inch wide tires?
>>
>> I've been reading Jan Heine's book All Road Bike Revolution 
>> ,
>>  
>> and the section on frame stiffness got me thinking about why my commuter 
>> bike, an XL 90's Specialized Hard Rock, feels kind of dead. I measured the 
>> top tube- it's 1.25 inches in diameter, larger than other bikes that I've 
>> had. I recall listening to Tom Ritchey praise flexible top tubes.
>>
>> I'm wondering if switching from a 1.25 inch to a 1 inch top tube 
>> 
>>  
>> will add some needed frame flex for me. I'm 165 lbs, and 99% of my riding 
>> on this bike is spinning in easy gears. I don't carry a rear load, and I 
>> don't use it for singletrack.
>>
>> Could this be a mostly DIY project? I would never consider doing it 
>> myself on a nice bike, but this ain't a nice bike. Cutting out the old 
>> tube, grinding down the old TIG welds, and mitering the new tube all seem 
>> doable, with patience. I would need a skilled welder to do the actual 
>> welding or brazing though. If it works OK I'd get it powder coated.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Susie/Wolbis Front-Center Question

[Christopher Cote]

I've only ridden a long chainstay bike (Joe A.) around the LBS parking lot, 
so I can't say how it would be on my local trails, but after riding a 
variety of more modern MTBs, even 10mm shorter chainstays make a huge 
difference in being able to ride "gnarly" east coast chunk. The shorter, 
the better, IMHO. Longer front-centers are nice for stability, too. I 
haven't ridden any of the current crop of really extreme MTBs (64 deg HTA, 
450+mm reach) so I don't know how much FC is too much, but I suspect it's a 
lot.

Interesting thing about low trail (or really any bike) on soft surfaces, if 
the front wheel starts to dig in, the contact patch moves forward, further 
reducing trail. A low-trail bike can effectively become a zero, or even 
negative trail bike! When that happens, you wash out.

Chris


On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 5:39:11 PM UTC-4 Shoji Takahashi wrote:

> Hi, 
> I think F-C is an important parameter for Grant's designs. Here's a 
> thread: 
> https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/dW25Rl2Qf3M/m/FL_RhSQwAwAJ
>
> I think Joe's point about the type of handlebar to which he's designing 
> the frame around is important, and has permitted him to expand F-C over the 
> years in other models. 
>
> Grant designs for where he rides (and how he rides). If your ride 
> conditions are different, it might not work as well for you. Longer chain 
> stays probably help quite a bit on steep hard-pack dirt for climbing and 
> descending. East Bay trails aren't rooted like New England trails, so 
> popping up front wheel or other MTB-maneuvers isn't as important. For me, 
> my low-trail bike washes out on loose dirt trails compared to my Riv. 
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
> Arlington MA
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:39:33 PM UTC-4 reca...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> Since I've been *very* slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the 
>> past few years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some 
>> geometries work for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to 
>> appreciate the method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using 
>> front-center as a guide for putting together a frame geometry with relation 
>> to getting the rider's weight distribution the way they want it (i.e. 
>> getting the bike to ride and fit the way one wants).
>>
>> A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the 
>> following method (paraphrased):
>>
>>
>>1. pick the trail you want
>>2. pick where you want your wheels to be
>>3. pick BB height
>>4. make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired 
>>position(s) through HT length, stem, bars, etc.
>>
>> So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more 
>> upright and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to 
>> accommodate this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the 
>> front-center length of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of 
>> making the total wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and 
>> corresponding fork offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most 
>> importantly is, what are the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it 
>> still handle in the way that most other high-trail bikes characteristically 
>> do? I ask because I am really interested in this design, understand the 
>> benefits of longer chainstays especially for my kind of more upright 
>> position and preferred weight distribution, but have still found that my 
>> favorite kind of bike that I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center, 
>> lowish trail, and a  front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the 
>> Susie. I am by no means a low trail evangelist, so  I guess what I am 
>> looking for are some impressions in terms of front-end handling of the 
>> bike? 
>>
>> Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the discussions) if this 
>> has been covered here before. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] riv water bottles

[Christopher Cote]

Keith,

At the risk of further thread drift, I have to say that I have one of those 
Nalgene bottles, and they are not very good. The dirt cap doesn't really 
seal, and dry dust can find its way in. Also, the nozzle isn't as nice as 
the ubiquitous Specialized made ones. I bought some more dust-capped 
bottles from a company called Dawn to Dusk, and while better than the 
Nalgene, they still are pretty bad. I can't believe, especially with the 
rise in popularity of unpaved road riding, that there aren't better 
solutions available.

Chris

On Friday, March 12, 2021 at 6:32:31 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Since this won't divert sales from Riv, I'll mention it as an on-topic 
> PSA:  I happenened to order a bunch of water bottles yesterday, directly 
> from Nalgene.  I was looking for something with a secondary mud cap because 
> I was tired of wiping cow dung off the valve before drinking and, lo and 
> behold, they happened to make one.  On sale for $3.50, with free shipping 
> if you order $20 worth.  BPA-free, dishwasher-safe.  Hard to beat (at least 
> in plastic):
>
> https://nalgene.com/product/22oz-fitness-atb/
>
>
> On Friday, March 12, 2021 at 1:25:59 AM UTC-7 Sky Coulter wrote:
>
>> I think it mght be because they’re trying to reduce the amount of plastic 
>> they use? Really, just speculation, but i thought there was some 
>> communication about trying to reduce waste.
>>
>> I still have a number of their water bottles and use them frequently.
>>
>> Sky in new west
>>
>> On Mar 11, 2021, at 8:00 PM, Jingy  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Any idea when the last time was that Riv sold water bottles? 
>> I would like some, but haven't seen any on the site in a couple of years.
>> Is it because of Grant's "you don't need water on most rides" stance?
>>
>> Jim in Mpls
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any Susie owners out there?

[Christopher Cote]

I think part of it is your physical proportions and fit. I tend toward a 
shorter torso and longer legs, so I'm naturally going to have less weight 
on the front wheel, especially with a long front-center.

I didn't mean to go so far as to say that the Susie (sorry for the 
misspelling earlier) was designed to make you get off and walk, but with 
Grant's philosophy, I just think it's unlikely he's designed the bike to 
"conquer the terrain". 

Chris


On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 6:06:18 PM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:

> I guess I am either blessed or cursed with less sensitivity in these 
> matters.  I tend to ride the same roads and trails 80 percent (or more) of 
> the time, and over the years I've ridden them with lots of different bikes 
> with lots of different geometries and setups.  I'm not sure exactly  what 
> handling characteristic is under discussion, but on my normal single track 
> trails, I don't notice a lack of bite from the front tire of the Susie. The 
> Klunker bar does not overly entice one into aggressive riding, but I'll 
> dive into a dirt turn at speed now and then, no problem. When going up a 
> challenging hill, yup, the bike will wander a bit. In my experience, 
> whatever the bike, unless you are practically hammering out of the saddle, 
> you are going to experience some of that at 3-4mph on a sick dirt and rock 
> grade.
>
> The Susie per se is not designed to make you walk. If I were going to be 
> going out into  the landscape aggressively, I could easily choose bars that 
> would get me level with the saddle on my Large. If I wanted more 
> aggression, I could put them on my Medium Clem L. I'm not sure it is 
> terribly helpful to compare the Hillibike geometries to current offerings 
> from the big boys.They share much more of a bloodline with my 1984 Trek 
> 830, able to traverse hill and dale, rock and road, with equal aplomb, but 
> with the ability to also get more comfortable via high head tube and longer 
> chainstays and small refinements in the geometry. And bigger wheels.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 2:35:50 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 12:28:41 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote wrote:
>>
>>> I haven't ridden a Gus or Suzie, but I have had a similar experience on 
>>> more conventional MTBs. If I set the bars up high and back for ultimate 
>>> comfort, there's not enough weight on the front tire to "bite" into the 
>>> terrain, and handling suffers, IMO. If you're just tootling along, the sit 
>>> up and beg position is fine, but if you're interested in riding technical 
>>> trails or in an aggressive manner, you need a more aggressive position. 
>>> Given Grant's philosophy that riders should get off and walk more, I think 
>>> that is reflected in the Gus/Suzie design.
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>
>> ^^ Right!  However, on a normal mountain bike that's set up this way, you 
>> end up doing wheelies while climbing, because the rear wheel is tucked 
>> under your butt.   On Grant's long-chainstay bikes, you still have a chance 
>> of riding it out.   
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Anyone have toe overlap issues?

[Christopher Cote]

I really dislike toe overlap. I have had it on pretty much every road bike 
with fenders I've ever had, even a Toyo Atlantis with 26" wheels. It's 
tolerable for pure paved road riding, but any kind of slow speed 
underbiking, country biking, hilibiking, etc and it's a no-go for me.

Chris


On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 1:27:51 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

>
> My 2015 Sam is the only bike I have ever had toe overlap with. It’s always 
> interesting when my downgoing toe hits the upgoing front tire on a low 
> speed turn.  55 Sam, size 10 shoe, 622x42 tires.
> I thought that, like pedal strike, it was just something you trained 
> yourself not to do.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any Susie owners out there?

[Christopher Cote]

I haven't ridden a Gus or Suzie, but I have had a similar experience on 
more conventional MTBs. If I set the bars up high and back for ultimate 
comfort, there's not enough weight on the front tire to "bite" into the 
terrain, and handling suffers, IMO. If you're just tootling along, the sit 
up and beg position is fine, but if you're interested in riding technical 
trails or in an aggressive manner, you need a more aggressive position. 
Given Grant's philosophy that riders should get off and walk more, I think 
that is reflected in the Gus/Suzie design.

Chris


On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 2:03:37 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> "Twitchy" often means different things (I'm guilty of using it to describe 
> multiple things myself) but, if Andrew means what I think he menas, then 
> "yes," I am experiencing it too.  Namely, I have to make constant small 
> steering corrections - especially at slow speed.   This isn't a flaw in the 
> bike though.  It just means I don't have the fit dialed-in yet.  I had to 
> solve this on my Clem, that my Susie replaced, and it took a half dozen 
> stem/bar combos to do so.  And maybe some saddle adjustment too.
>
> In a nutshell, I think the problem exists because there's not enough 
> weight on the bars to stabilize the steering - which is why I want to lower 
> them and push them away from me.   Part of the beauty of the long 
> chainstays though - if I understand it correctly - is that you don't need 
> NEARLY as much weight on the bars as you would with a traditional bike to 
> get that ballance correct. Which is why you CAN get away with a more 
> upright seating position.   
>
> However there's also the fact that the seat tube is WAY more slack than 
> current mountain bike vogue too.   This means that you can (and do) support 
> your upper body weight without relying on your hands and arms to do it, 
> even if your upper body is leaned forward.   So you don't really NEED as 
> upright of a position as you would on another bike, to get the weight off 
> of your hands.   
>
> So - between both things - I think it's just easy to get too much weight 
> off of the handlebars, which leads to "twitchy."   Nothing that can't be 
> solved with some experimentation and trial and error.   (My 2 cents, for 
> what it's worth.)
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 11:07:50 AM UTC-7 Paul Richardson wrote:
>
>> re: Andrew's comment that the steering is "light to the point of being 
>> twitchy"
>>
>> I'm curious if others have that experience.  I ride hands free all the 
>> time (again, XL frame + 10cm DirtDrop + choco bars) and find the bike to be 
>> supremely stable and not at all twitchy.  Basically, my question is, is 
>> twitchiness inherent in frame design, or is it affected by the build?
>>
>> paul
>> takoma park, md.
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 11:03:38 AM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>>> Just an FYI, the VO Klunkers measure 700 from outside end to outside 
>>> end. Has some flare and return, not sure how much but nothing like a Bosco.
>>> [image: IMG_20201023_080135686(1).jpg][image: 
>>> IMG_20201023_080153725(2).jpg]
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 9:37:42 AM UTC-5 Tim Baldwin wrote:
>>>
 Yes more pictures please Andrew. I'd especially like another shot of 
 the handlebars. Those are exactly what I've been dreaming about lately. 
 I'm 
 trying the Persuader bars on my Atlantis. After going that wide, the swept 
 Riv bars seem so narrow. I'd love a wide version of the Albatross or 
 Billie. The Susie seems like the perfect bike for those bars as my 
 Atlantis 
 feels cramped with swept backs.

 On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 3:42:30 AM UTC-6 duh...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Killer build Andrew
>
> We'd love to see some updated pictures if you've got any
>
> Jared
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:21:39 PM UTC-8 Andrew Stevens wrote:
>
>> Sam, the MBs were 90s mtbs, more similar to an Atlantis than a Susie. 
>> The Susie has a much more upright position, and a radically longer top 
>> tube 
>> (70cm on the XL, with a 59cm seat tube.) The design of early mountain 
>> bikes, and most race designed bikes regardless of generation, is to 
>> spread 
>> your center of gravity more evenly between the hbars and seat in order 
>> to 
>> reduce drag. None of these principles apply to the Susie, which is 
>> designed 
>> to have most of the weight on the saddle, further back and over the rear 
>> stays, for the purpose of comfort. 
>>
>> On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 4:19:10 PM UTC-6 Clark Fitzgerald 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sam- The Susie is completely different from a stock MB2. Susie has 
>>> higher bars for a more upright position centered over your feet, wider 
>>> tires, and a longer wheelbase. I found the Susie much more comfortable 
>>> and 
>>> confidence inspiring on rough terrain. I sold my 1992 MB2 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Christopher Cote]

I'm curious to see your NOS Heron Road frame. If it's that wonderful 
sparkly blue-green color, it would melt my heart to see it again!

Chris


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-5 Ray wrote:

> I have to agree with Chris. I was surprised you weren't asking more for 
> it. It looks lovely, and I have been considering adding an honest touring 
> bike to my stable (though I certainly don't need another bike). Do you mind 
> if I ask where you are located? 
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:12:27 AM UTC-6 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
>> Hi, Chris;
>>
>> I appreciate you writing--guess I should be asking for more for this 
>> bike!  I won't refuse a higher offer I've advertised it here before, and 
>> there was no interest at that time.  I've really enjoyed it, but am trying 
>> to clear out things in every category in life; I have a Sam (55 with the 
>> double TT, but I wish it were the next size up that has since been 
>> offered), a Legolas, and a Curt Goodrich prototype for the Saluki/650b (the 
>> One Bike to Rule Them All). You're right, the Heron Touring does everything 
>> well all day long; thanks for sharing that you fit 38s on it--very good to 
>> know.  Well, if it doesn't sell, I will take it out on the road again, and 
>> try it with a set of Barlow Pass tires!  Tom
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:51 AM Christopher Cote  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road 
>>> any more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're 
>>> considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that 
>>> bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being 
>>> the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the 
>>> chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.
>>>
>>> I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to 
>>> finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the 
>>> Heron Road!
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>>>
>>>> I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron 
>>>> Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals 
>>>> and 
>>>> saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm 
>>>> tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser 
>>>> (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for 
>>>> weekend 
>>>> rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed 
>>>> cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour 
>>>> front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino 
>>>> crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake 
>>>> levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or 
>>>> dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and 
>>>> underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please 
>>>> see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with 
>>>> care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  
>>>> *$695 
>>>> + shipping & insurance*
>>>>
>>>> There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint 
>>>> project between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd 
>>>> Kuzma; 
>>>> happy to share them via a PM.  
>>>>
>>>> I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale; 
>>>> the two would make a nice pair.[image: 
>>>> 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>> .
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/cd15859c-01f8-469e-93b4-96d73bbcd0efn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Christopher Cote]

I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road any 
more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're 
considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that 
bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being 
the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the 
chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.

I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to 
finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the 
Heron Road!

Chris

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:

> I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron 
> Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals and 
> saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm 
> tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser 
> (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for weekend 
> rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed 
> cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour 
> front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino 
> crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake 
> levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or 
> dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and 
> underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please 
> see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with 
> care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  *$695 
> + shipping & insurance*
>
> There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint project 
> between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd Kuzma; happy 
> to share them via a PM.  
>
> I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale; the 
> two would make a nice pair.[image: 
> 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Studded Tire Experience, help

[Christopher Cote]

I am very fortunate, my bike stable runneth over. There was sort of a 
moment of "post peak fat bike" a few years ago when it was easy to pick 
them up.

Chris


On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 3:47:48 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Chris you are a lucky duck if you own two fat bikes! 
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 11:35:22 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> I have a Surly Wednesday and an Ice Cream Truck. The ICT sees 99% of the 
>> winter miles. The added float of the wider rims and tires is irreplaceable, 
>> IMHO. I just built up a second set of wheels for it this year, so now I 
>> have the stock wheels with 100mm rims and Vee Snowshoe 2XL (5.05" actual 
>> width!) for soft conditions, and the new wheels with 80mm rims and Terrene 
>> Johnny 5 studded tires for hardpack and/or icy conditions.
>>
>> Fat bikes are in very short supply right now, so if you want to buy one, 
>> you'll have to take what you can get. I would suggest avoiding anything 
>> with QR axles though, as through axles are pretty much standard now. Also, 
>> don't fall into the 27.5x3.8" trap. Get a bike with true 26x4.6-5" 
>> wheels/tires.
>>
>> You mentioned late season transition. I'm sorry that I have to tell you 
>> about mud season. Typically, the trails go from snow to mud in a very short 
>> time in the spring, and it's off limits until things dry out.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 11:18:42 AM UTC-5 David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Michael,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the link!  I actually just moved here from Brooklyn.  Riding 
>>> around the city on snowy days was one of my favorite things to do.  Just 
>>> unfortunate the city saw so little snow the last couple of years.  And yes, 
>>> I agree with you on the green of the ICT -- I love it.  I had originally 
>>> thought it would be the smart choice, but after reading a bunch of reviews 
>>> and commentaries, decided that the less aggressive Wednesday would be 
>>> better.  A lot of people also feel the q-factor is just too extreme.
>>>
>>> Hi Chris,
>>>
>>> I'm on the coast a bit north of you in Camden, and ride primarily on the 
>>> local trails here -- in Camden State Park, Snow Bowl, etc.  I really 
>>> appreciated hearing your advice -- it's seeming like the consensus says a 
>>> fatbike is the way to go if I'm going to be able to continue riding trails 
>>> in the snow(whether packed or groomed or unpacked.)  Glad I'm figuring this 
>>> out now as the 29 x 2.6" studded tires would be a $400 investment.  Not at 
>>> all worth it to me if it's only going to be fun using them during the early 
>>> and late season transitions.  H.  What kind of fatbike do you ride?
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 10:18:45 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi  David. Maine native and avid fat bike and winter cycling enthusiast 
>>>> here. You didn't say which part of the state you are in. This makes a 
>>>> difference, north or south, coastal or mountains, the weather and snow 
>>>> conditions are quite different. I'm guessing, since you're asking about 
>>>> riding on icy, packed trails, that like me, you are in the southern part 
>>>> of 
>>>> the state. My observation of the last several years is that you typically 
>>>> would get a few days a year at most where skinny (meaning not fat bike 
>>>> tires, less than 3.8" actual width) studded tires are usable. The current 
>>>> conditions here contradict that, but if there's nothing else to know about 
>>>> Maine winter trail conditions, know that they're variable and change 
>>>> rapidly. Looking at the long range forecast, if you buy some skinny studs 
>>>> now, you might get a week or more use out of them, at least. This is 
>>>> unusual.
>>>>
>>>> Something to note is that many local trail groups have bought snow 
>>>> groomers in the past few years, and they put a lot of time and money into 
>>>> grooming the trails. Please, please, do not ride skinny tires on groomed 
>>>> trails. If you slice ruts into them, no one will be happy. There's a 
>>>> growing community of fat bike riders and more and more opportunities to 
>>>> ride in the winter. My 2 cents is if you want to really enjoy trail riding 
>>>> here in the winter, get a fat bike. One that can fit

[RBW] Re: Studded Tire Experience, help

[Christopher Cote]

David,

I have a Surly Wednesday and an Ice Cream Truck. The ICT sees 99% of the 
winter miles. The added float of the wider rims and tires is irreplaceable, 
IMHO. I just built up a second set of wheels for it this year, so now I 
have the stock wheels with 100mm rims and Vee Snowshoe 2XL (5.05" actual 
width!) for soft conditions, and the new wheels with 80mm rims and Terrene 
Johnny 5 studded tires for hardpack and/or icy conditions.

Fat bikes are in very short supply right now, so if you want to buy one, 
you'll have to take what you can get. I would suggest avoiding anything 
with QR axles though, as through axles are pretty much standard now. Also, 
don't fall into the 27.5x3.8" trap. Get a bike with true 26x4.6-5" 
wheels/tires.

You mentioned late season transition. I'm sorry that I have to tell you 
about mud season. Typically, the trails go from snow to mud in a very short 
time in the spring, and it's off limits until things dry out.

Chris


On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 11:18:42 AM UTC-5 David Wadstrup wrote:

> Hi Michael,
>
> Thanks for the link!  I actually just moved here from Brooklyn.  Riding 
> around the city on snowy days was one of my favorite things to do.  Just 
> unfortunate the city saw so little snow the last couple of years.  And yes, 
> I agree with you on the green of the ICT -- I love it.  I had originally 
> thought it would be the smart choice, but after reading a bunch of reviews 
> and commentaries, decided that the less aggressive Wednesday would be 
> better.  A lot of people also feel the q-factor is just too extreme.
>
> Hi Chris,
>
> I'm on the coast a bit north of you in Camden, and ride primarily on the 
> local trails here -- in Camden State Park, Snow Bowl, etc.  I really 
> appreciated hearing your advice -- it's seeming like the consensus says a 
> fatbike is the way to go if I'm going to be able to continue riding trails 
> in the snow(whether packed or groomed or unpacked.)  Glad I'm figuring this 
> out now as the 29 x 2.6" studded tires would be a $400 investment.  Not at 
> all worth it to me if it's only going to be fun using them during the early 
> and late season transitions.  H.  What kind of fatbike do you ride?
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 10:18:45 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> Hi  David. Maine native and avid fat bike and winter cycling enthusiast 
>> here. You didn't say which part of the state you are in. This makes a 
>> difference, north or south, coastal or mountains, the weather and snow 
>> conditions are quite different. I'm guessing, since you're asking about 
>> riding on icy, packed trails, that like me, you are in the southern part of 
>> the state. My observation of the last several years is that you typically 
>> would get a few days a year at most where skinny (meaning not fat bike 
>> tires, less than 3.8" actual width) studded tires are usable. The current 
>> conditions here contradict that, but if there's nothing else to know about 
>> Maine winter trail conditions, know that they're variable and change 
>> rapidly. Looking at the long range forecast, if you buy some skinny studs 
>> now, you might get a week or more use out of them, at least. This is 
>> unusual.
>>
>> Something to note is that many local trail groups have bought snow 
>> groomers in the past few years, and they put a lot of time and money into 
>> grooming the trails. Please, please, do not ride skinny tires on groomed 
>> trails. If you slice ruts into them, no one will be happy. There's a 
>> growing community of fat bike riders and more and more opportunities to 
>> ride in the winter. My 2 cents is if you want to really enjoy trail riding 
>> here in the winter, get a fat bike. One that can fit 26x5" tires is best, 
>> as that will give you the most opportunity to ride in the widest range of 
>> conditions.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, January 7, 2021 at 9:48:58 AM UTC-5 David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I recently moved to Maine, and would really like to keep riding trails 
>>> even in these snowy, icy conditions.  So, I'm hoping for some advice.  I 
>>> initially thought a fat bike might be in order, but after diving deep into 
>>> Surly Wednesday research, I've decided that it's just not for me -- I'd 
>>> much rather ski, or even snowshoe, if there's a significant amount of new, 
>>> unpacked snow.  What I'm mostly interested in riding is our local, hilly, 
>>> graveled trails that are fully snow covered and that see a lot of foot 
>>> traffic even in winter(walkers, skiers, snowshoers, fat bike riders, even 
>>> so

[RBW] Re: Studded Tire Experience, help

[Christopher Cote]

Hi  David. Maine native and avid fat bike and winter cycling enthusiast 
here. You didn't say which part of the state you are in. This makes a 
difference, north or south, coastal or mountains, the weather and snow 
conditions are quite different. I'm guessing, since you're asking about 
riding on icy, packed trails, that like me, you are in the southern part of 
the state. My observation of the last several years is that you typically 
would get a few days a year at most where skinny (meaning not fat bike 
tires, less than 3.8" actual width) studded tires are usable. The current 
conditions here contradict that, but if there's nothing else to know about 
Maine winter trail conditions, know that they're variable and change 
rapidly. Looking at the long range forecast, if you buy some skinny studs 
now, you might get a week or more use out of them, at least. This is 
unusual.

Something to note is that many local trail groups have bought snow groomers 
in the past few years, and they put a lot of time and money into grooming 
the trails. Please, please, do not ride skinny tires on groomed trails. If 
you slice ruts into them, no one will be happy. There's a growing community 
of fat bike riders and more and more opportunities to ride in the winter. 
My 2 cents is if you want to really enjoy trail riding here in the winter, 
get a fat bike. One that can fit 26x5" tires is best, as that will give you 
the most opportunity to ride in the widest range of conditions.

Chris


On Thursday, January 7, 2021 at 9:48:58 AM UTC-5 David Wadstrup wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I recently moved to Maine, and would really like to keep riding trails 
> even in these snowy, icy conditions.  So, I'm hoping for some advice.  I 
> initially thought a fat bike might be in order, but after diving deep into 
> Surly Wednesday research, I've decided that it's just not for me -- I'd 
> much rather ski, or even snowshoe, if there's a significant amount of new, 
> unpacked snow.  What I'm mostly interested in riding is our local, hilly, 
> graveled trails that are fully snow covered and that see a lot of foot 
> traffic even in winter(walkers, skiers, snowshoers, fat bike riders, even 
> some snowmobiles.)  So here are my questions to those of you who have 
> experience with winter trail riding...
>
> 1) I can fit a 2.6 tire on my Susie.  Is this fat enough to ride snowy, 
> icy, chewed up, packed trails?  I'm sure it's possible, but is fun?  I know 
> a fat bike would give better float, and roll over everything more, but 
> would my plus sized 29er tires handle it ok? Would it float enough and roll 
> over enough to make investing in a set of VERY expensive 2.6 studded tires 
> be worth it?  Or will it just be mostly a slog?
>
> 2) Regarding studded tires...I've used 40mm wide Nokian Hakkas for 
> wintertime commuting in the city, but am going to need something wider, 
> something designed for trail riding.  The two best options as far as I can 
> see are the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pros and the 45North Wrathchilds.  The 
> Schwalbes only come in a 2.25" width, the 45Norths in a 2.6".  Obviously, 
> wider sounds better, but there are some mitigating factors... 
>
> On the one hand, the 45Norths are considerably more expensive than the 
> Schwalbes.  They have less studs, and they seem to be prone to exceptional 
> stud loss and have garnered a number of negative reviews.  There are two 
> versions of them, though.  One, a 60TPi version with "regular" sized studs; 
> two, a 120TPI version with "XL" sized studs.  They are similar in price. 
>  From what I can gather, the 120/XL version seems to be the version that 
> sees the most stud loss and is the one almost all of the online negative 
> reviews reference.  Does anyone have any experience with either of these 
> versions?  Is my assumption that the 60TPI loses less studs correct?  What 
> do you think of this tire generally?  Is it wide enough for packed, snowy 
> trails?
>
> On the other hand, the Schwalbe Ice Spikers are much less expensive.  They 
> have considerably more studs.  Their current version seem to have far few 
> negative reviews.  But they are .35" narrower -- that's 9mm! I would think 
> that this 9mm would make a huge difference in performance in the conditions 
> I'm looking to use them in, but maybe it won't?  Maybe 2.25 and 2.6 tires 
> will be comparable? Maybe the greater stud count and better reviews and 
> lower cost outweighs the extra width of the 45North?  What  do you think?
>
> Thanks for whatever advice you might have.  Oh, and in case it makes a 
> difference --  I'll be running them with tubes and will not need to ride 
> these tires on pavement before getting to the trailhead(it's right outside 
> my door, practically!)
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ROADUNO - a new singlespeed!

[Christopher Cote]

I expect these are sized like the more recent Rivendells such as the Sam 
Hillborne, etc. The 54cm would be the right size for me, and I would have 
ridden a 56 or 58cm Quickbeam, for example.

Chris


On Sunday, December 13, 2020 at 8:58:54 PM UTC-5 Berkeleyan wrote:

> Okay, after reading the obscure details on the R1, I stand corrected. 
> Despite the shocking shortcoming of its very limited PBH range, it has one 
> great advantage over the QB of yore, and THAT is support for wider tires. I 
> tried running Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Roads (38mm) on my Orange QB, and they 
> just only barely fit. Currently I roll on 38mm Ocean Air Soma C-Lines, 
> which fit just fine without fenders. But if the R1 will go well into the 
> mid-40's, yes, that is an improvement.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: WoolyWarm 6-button sweater, size Large

[Christopher Cote]

Sorry to post to the whole list, but William if you didn't get my reply, 
please check your spam folder. Thanks!

Chris

On Thursday, December 3, 2020 at 7:23:46 PM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:

> I just received my WW 6 six button sweater, and while it's a fantastic 
> piece, it's just not for me. Rather than pester Rivendell with a return, I 
> figured I'd offer it up for sale here first, in case someone missed out on 
> them. I would say that Riv's sizing advice is spot on. I usually wear a 
> medium, ordered a large. It's a snug fit, with plenty of horizontal 
> stretchiness for comfort. Tried on once, tag still attached, briefly in my 
> pet and smoke free home. The price is $130, and I'll eat the shipping 
> (continental USA only!) and paypal fees. Local (socially distanced) pickup 
> near Portland, MAINE possible. Please email me off list. Thanks!
>
> Chris
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Mountain Bike 17.5" Waterford Built

[Christopher Cote]

Wow, that is amazing. I'm hoping this is way to small for me, so I can stop 
thinking about it. What's the saddle height in the pic? What size regular 
(level top tube) road bike do you ride? Thanks!

Chris


On Saturday, December 5, 2020 at 11:03:18 AM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:

> Hi All -
>
> Up for sale is my 1997 Waterford-built Rivendell Mountain Bike. Asking 
> price is $1250 plus shipping, which will depend on where and how.
>
> It is a 17.5" frame, with a 55cm top tube (57cm effective). Tubing is 
> Reynolds 753 and 531. Color is classic pumpkin orange with cream head tube. 
> Rivendell Frame Geometry sheet from the time says:
> ST angle: 73
> HT angle: 72
> Fork Rake: 40
> Chain Stay: 42.5
> BB Drop: 40
> Over Locknut: 132
>
> Condition is very good, though there are some dings in the paint. Selling 
> because I've replaced it with a more road-oriented big tire bike. 
>
> It is built up with:
> SunTour XC Pro cranks & derailers
> Tange BB
> Shimano 9-speed bar end shifters
> 8-speed cassette (yes, this combination works!)
> Velo Orange wheels
> Compass Rat Trap Pass tires
> TRP Revox brakes and RRP levers
> Tange Seiki threadless headset, but fork is threaded (yes, this works!)
> Specialized/Nitto seatpost
> Nitto Dirt Drop stem 
> Nitto Dirt Drop bars
> no pedals, and saddle is not included
>
> Please contact off list, though feel free to ask questions off list.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>
> [image: IMG_0354.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0356.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0357.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0359.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0362.jpeg]
> [image: IMG_0363.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] FS: WoolyWarm 6-button sweater, size Large

[Christopher Cote]

I just received my WW 6 six button sweater, and while it's a fantastic 
piece, it's just not for me. Rather than pester Rivendell with a return, I 
figured I'd offer it up for sale here first, in case someone missed out on 
them. I would say that Riv's sizing advice is spot on. I usually wear a 
medium, ordered a large. It's a snug fit, with plenty of horizontal 
stretchiness for comfort. Tried on once, tag still attached, briefly in my 
pet and smoke free home. The price is $130, and I'll eat the shipping 
(continental USA only!) and paypal fees. Local (socially distanced) pickup 
near Portland, MAINE possible. Please email me off list. Thanks!

Chris

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[RBW] Re: RBW Caught in YouTube Video

[Christopher Cote]

Thanks for posting that. I had seen a couple of his videos a while back, 
but forgot about him. He's becoming quite the cinematographer! I cringed a 
little when he installed that Chris King headset with a home made press, 
though!

Chris

On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 9:11:59 PM UTC-5 David Person wrote:

> I meant to add that the visit to RBW is at about the 11 minute mark, 
> though I hope you'll watch the whole video.
>
> On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 6:02:49 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:
>
>> One of the YouTube channels that I follow (subscribe to) is one called 
>> Henrywildeberry.  He's a YouTuber in Northern California that does a tone 
>> of bikey video, along with some melodramatic acting.  Thankfully, not too 
>> much of the later.  The latest video he posted is about his girlfriend 
>> (best I can tell from watch most all his videos) getting a custom frame and 
>> then stopping by Rivendell Bicycle Works to pick up a pair of Silver 
>> shifters.  I would encourage any of you who seeing some cycling through a 
>> beautiful part of the country to check out the content on Henry's YouTube 
>> channel.  
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcPBZW0G7tE=703s
>>   
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: COVID face mask that lets you breathe and doesn't cause glasses to fog?

[Christopher Cote]

Actually, on further inspection, I think she's just wearing a bandana or 
scarf. Fold into a triangle, wrap it around your face, over the nose, and 
tie it in the back. Not to tight, with the knot low, like where your neck 
meets your back, and it stays put pretty well in my experience.

Chris

On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 3:27:42 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The video that David posted of Mz Cool stopping by Rivendell was 
> interesting for various reasons, but one in particular is her way of using 
> what looks to be a scarf as a COVID mask that can be kept sub-chin while 
> riding but quickly pulled up in public.
>
> Has anyone done this? Can he-er-she describe the scarf, how you put it on, 
> and how you manipulate it?
>
> https://youtu.be/QcPBZW0G7tE?t=629
>
> https://youtu.be/QcPBZW0G7tE?t=698
>
> Anyway, her scarf is much more pleasant to look at than your average mask; 
> far less of a disfigurement.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: COVID face mask that lets you breathe and doesn't cause glasses to fog?

[Christopher Cote]

Looks like the ubiquitous "Buff" neck tube/gaiter type thing. I find a 
bandana, worn cowboy-style works pretty well and doesn't fog my glasses up 
as badly as the ear-loop cloth masks. No guarantees about effectiveness.

Chris

On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 3:27:42 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The video that David posted of Mz Cool stopping by Rivendell was 
> interesting for various reasons, but one in particular is her way of using 
> what looks to be a scarf as a COVID mask that can be kept sub-chin while 
> riding but quickly pulled up in public.
>
> Has anyone done this? Can he-er-she describe the scarf, how you put it on, 
> and how you manipulate it?
>
> https://youtu.be/QcPBZW0G7tE?t=629
>
> https://youtu.be/QcPBZW0G7tE?t=698
>
> Anyway, her scarf is much more pleasant to look at than your average mask; 
> far less of a disfigurement.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike shorts/ Liners

[Christopher Cote]

Boure. They still make the kind of shorts we wore 20 years ago. 
https://www.boure.com/

Chris

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm, 26" wheeled Toyo Atlantis

[Christopher Cote]

This is sold, thanks for the interest everyone!

Chris

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[RBW] New Camera Day

[Christopher Cote]

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Cameras for Biking

[Christopher Cote]

I don't know what phone you're using, but with my Pixel 2, double-pressing 
the power button brings up the camera, even if the phone is locked. 
Pressing the - volume button takes a picture. Easy to do while riding. Most 
of the other phones I've owned allow similar shortcuts to bring up the 
camera app.

Chris



On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 2:06:36 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Amen! There’s a design concept called “friction” that seeks to make things 
> as easy as possible (for instance, “Buy It Now” buttons on web sites). For 
> me, this is directly applicable to photography while riding: If I have to 
> do more than about three things to get to the point where I can take a 
> picture, it’s too complicated and I find that I don’t even try. 
>
> Basically, I like a camera that I can 1) reach into the bag and grab, 2) 
> turn on/activate, and 3) put to my eye and shoot. Steps 1 and 2 should be 
> possible without looking at the camera. Depending on the circumstances, I 
> may just “aim” and shoot without using the viewfinder.
>
> This is why I don’t like using my phone (other than the risk of dropping 
> it). Getting the darn thing unlocked and then loading the camera app *or* 
> pressing on the screen in the right place to start the camera is just too 
> complicated and requires too much attention.
>
> This is also why I’m trending toward auto-focus, auto-exposure 
> point-and-shoot film cameras. I love rangefinders and have a bunch of them, 
> but unless I set the focus and hope for the best, they’re not useful to me 
> for bicycle shooting … unless I’m willing to stop, focus, meter (for 
> cameras like Rob K’s Leica iii), compose, and shoot.
>
> These days, I likes cameras like the Olympus XA-4, which allows me to zone 
> focus and just point (wide angle lens makes it easier to aim). I also have 
> a few 1980s-ish point and shoot cameras like the Yashica T3 and Minoltal 
> HiMatic AF2 that are easy to use and do everything but push their own 
> shutter button. Most of these cameras even load and advance the film 
> automatically. I find I take more pictures when I carry these cameras.
>
> This is based on almost 40 years of cycling photography. I started 
> shooting pictures of rides in the early 80s, using disposable film cameras 
> that by coincidence met the ease of use characteristics that I became aware 
> of years later. 
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Jun 9, 2020, at 4:04 AM, Augi > wrote:
>
> I think the most important part of carrying a camera is how easy it is to 
> get to.  I drop it into my stem/bar bag so I can pull it out at anytime.
>
> https://www.outershelladventure.com/shop/7826r9hyzpjknnobe479ebu35yse8v
>
> When I used to pack my camera in a real bag, I noticed I got too lazy to 
> get it out and in a jersey pocket doesn't work for me.  I get too sweaty.
>
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 3:49:31 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>>
>> How do you haul it, use it, etc?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cameras for Biking

[Christopher Cote]

Yes, phone cameras are awfully convenient, and I always have mine on me. I 
will admit that I have a hard time combining cycling and photography. When 
I'm riding, I want to ride. If I want to take good pictures, I need to be 
focused (pardon the pun!) and patient. I find that difficult when riding. 
Also, I can drop my phone in my pocket, or a pouch I keep on one shoulder 
strap of my Camelbak when mountain biking, and it's instantly accessible. 
If I have to dig out my E-M10 from a backpack or saddlebag, it usually 
doesn't happen. I have an Outer Shell camera strap that works well for 
casual road rides and easy trail riding, but not for my favorite type of 
riding, non-Rivendell style mountain biking. You know, the kind with "body 
armor", suspension, etc.

I do enjoy it when I can successfully combine cycling and photography. I 
took a wonderful ride a week or two ago with my Atlantis and E-M10 on some 
back roads, and took the time to make some nice (IMO) pictures.







Chris





On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 8:12:41 PM UTC-4, eddietheflay wrote:
>
> the big question is what will you do with the photos. many of us simply 
> send them via the net to people we know or post on websites. how important 
> is radical picture quality when looking on the average phone or tablet, or 
> desktop monitor.
>
> i too bout an EMIII a couple of years ago and realized photography was not 
> going to be like my "all in" biking hobby, so bought great point and 
> shoot...and it still sits a lot cuz me still gots me phone...which is with 
> me nearly 100% of the time.
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 12:49:31 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I've no longer a mobile phone and thus no longer have the incorporated 
>> camera and it's happy ability to take a burst of photos after a set delay 
>> of 20 seconds or so. Kai kindly recommended Sony, and in my research I 
>> ended up finding the simplicity of mirrorless, which presumably means 
>> heartier (I'll test that!), then, in looking for older models that do what 
>> I want so I don't pay for all the latest bells and whistles, I found 
>> Olympus' Pen E-PL8, which is long in the tooth and thus happily under $300 
>> with lens for a step uyp from a point and shoot or adventure camera. I have 
>> it coming, along with a better tripod and a leather case. I plan to carry 
>> it in my XS Saddlesack handlebar bag.
>>
>> Curious what folks going digital, who are into photography are 
>> doing/using. I love the simplicity of the mobile phone, but miss the 
>> qualities and settings of a higher end camera. It seems there are the point 
>> and shoots (not many as mobile phones do this), adventure cameras, which 
>> are a step up but still feature shy without spending a fortune, and then 
>> the higher end cameras (recommendations for ones that are weather proof and 
>> heartier?).
>>
>> What do you like, not like about what you are using? How do you haul it, 
>> use it, etc?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>>
>

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[RBW] Cameras for Biking

[Christopher Cote]

I bought an Olympus E-M10 Mark iii camera last winter, and have already 
acquired a little collection of lenses, including the "prime trio" of 17, 25, 
and 45mm F/1.8 (35, 50, and 90mm equivalent in 35mm) lenses. I love the image 
quality, real "bokeh" (as opposed to the fake bokeh you get with fancy phone 
cameras these days), the normal and short tele perspectives, which are 
refreshing compared to the overabundance of 24-28mm equivalent phone camera 
pictures you see everywhere. I like the ability to shoot with manual settings, 
and the built-in Olympus art filters.

I know film camera (please don't call it analog) shooting is all the rage these 
days, but digital is so much cheaper and more convenient.

My primary outlet for photography these days is instagram. You can look me up 
@cj.biker there.

Finally, I think the Micro 4/3 format is brilliant. It doesn't match the image 
quality and light gathering of full-frame, but the smaller size and tremendous 
quality lenses for the price more than make up for it, IMHO.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Rivendell model names?

[Christopher Cote]

That's almost as bad as folks that pronounce Dura Ace like "do rah ach ay"!

Chris


On Thursday, June 4, 2020 at 1:14:00 PM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> My vote is for the Simpleone.  Too many pronounce it as two words in 
> English -- simple one -- when in fact the correct pronunciation follows 
> Italian rules -- seem play oh neigh.  When pronounce correctly this way, it 
> is sheer genius of a bicycle name.
>
> (sic)
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 10:17:21 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>> Or, “Let’s Fight About Something On Topic!” 
>>
>> Let’s hear your most and least favorite Rivendell model names. No name 
>> calling, even about the names. 
>>
>> What is your favorite Rivendell model name? Mine is Legolas. It’s real 
>> hard to separate out the bike itself from the name for me. For example, I 
>> don’t like the Sam Hillborn name, but that might be because it sounded like 
>> a downmarket A. Homer Hilsen. On the other hand, I LOVE the name Platypus, 
>> and want one of those bikes no matter what it looks like! 
>>
>> Hunqapillar - how genius is that?! 
>> Wolbis Slugstone, though? My least favorite, in a walk. 
>>
>> I only ask because I found this anonymous poll about Rivendell model 
>> names: https://forms.gle/FEf5TeFkr4fZQdxEA 
>>
>> Philip 
>> Santa Rosa, CA 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: anyone ever try this conversion? 1 1/8" to 1" to accept a quill

[Christopher Cote]

I have not tried it. I've seen pics of that setup a couple of times. 
Anecdotally, I heard about Surly contacting someone who had posted a pic of 
a bike set up that way on social media, saying it was not safe. I can't 
verify that actually happened, so take it with a grain of salt. 

Two somewhat-related observations: First, I miss that style of blog from 
Rivendell. The weekly emails and infrequent Blahg aren't the same. Second, 
I think the "flexible steerer tube" question/concern is valid. It manifests 
itself in front brake shudder when using a top-of-the-headset mounted cable 
hanger and cantilever brakes.

Chris


On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 9:47:45 PM UTC-4, Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>
> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/105904306219/ho-ho-ho
>
> Has anyone gotten this to a point where they feel safe riding it?
>
> Curious to hear of any alternative methods, or issues w this one.
>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Rivendell model names?

[Christopher Cote]

Atlantis, Bleriot, Romulus, Redwood, Hunqapillar are awesome. I can't get into 
the proper person type names. Woblis and Gus are just ridiculous. Quickbeam is 
OK, but starting to get a little corny. I love my Rambouillet, but cringe when 
saying it to non-bikey people. It sounds so pretentious.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Bucephalus

[Christopher Cote]

Great article, and a very cool looking bike. To the armchair bike engineer 
in me, it looks like a 68 degree seat tube angle, although the 
forward-offset seatpost steepens that up a few degrees in practice. The 
headtube angle looks about 72-73 degrees and the fork has a ton of rake. 
Definitely low-trail. I wonder what the wheel and tire size are. Not even 
close to a fistfull of seat post showing. Overall the proportions and 
aesthetics are perfect. That's something I try to achieve with my bikes. No 
ungainly, super-tall stem quills, monster seat posts, etc. I don't always 
achieve that, fit and performance take precedence, but it's a goal.

Chris


On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 3:31:42 PM UTC-4, Tom M wrote:
>
> This article (
> https://lithub.com/the-amateur-cyclist-who-biked-around-the-world/) talks 
> about Fred Birchmore, who biked around the world on a single-speed bike. 
> Remarkable man. The bike pictured in the article appears to my eye to have 
> similar clearances to current Riv models, though a level top tube. 
> Handlebars above the seat, sprung saddle, rack and fenders, bottle dynamo 
> light.
> Tom Milani
> Alexandria, VA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm, 26" wheeled Toyo Atlantis

[Christopher Cote]

I've received a few emails asking about the geometry of the bike. I had 
assumed that since this is the Rivendell list, that everyone here has 
memorized all the Riv bike geometries since the first catalog. I guess I'm 
the only one weird like that, so here's a link to the original geo:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/atlantis/atlflyer/04.html

Additionally, the standover height with the RTP tires is 83cm to the top of 
the top tube, in the center (sloping top tube, so it's a bit less at the 
seatpost, more at the stem). I got a quote for shipping to SoCal from 
shipbikes.com for $100. Looks suspiciously low, but I haven't shipped a 
complete bike in many years.

Chris



On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 2:45:38 PM UTC-4, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> I'm reluctantly putting my Atlantis up for sale. I'm sure I will regret 
> doing this, but it's not really filling a necessary niche in my bike stable 
> at this point. This is a Toyo built Atlantis from the early 2000s. Frame 
> size is 56cm and the wheels are 26". I bought the frameset used on this 
> list last year and built it up with a mix of parts on hand and new stuff. 
> The paint on the frame and fork has plenty of honest beausage. The worst of 
> which has been touched up with some sparkly green nail polish that looks OK 
> from 10 feet away. I recently acquired a bottle of official Atlantis 
> touch-up paint, which I will include with the sale. No dents or other 
> functional damage to the frame or fork. I'm looking for $1400 plus shipping 
> from zip 04093. Local pickup in southern Maine is encouraged if you're 
> local! I can substitute the Surly Open Bars with a Nitto drop bar, and I 
> have a selection of Technomic stems if you want a different length. What I 
> don't have on hand is a spare pair of long-pull drop bar levers, so if you 
> want the drop bar option, you'll need to provide your own levers.
>
> Bars: Surly Open Bar
> Stem: Nitto Technomic, 10cm (might be 11cm, I'll have to double-check)
> Grips: Ergon GP1 Bio Cork
> Brake Levers: Shimano Deore
> Headset: Shimano Ultegra
> Shifters: Dura Ace 9spd bar-ends mounted to Paul Thumbies
> Brakes: Shimano Deore V-brakes, Koolstop salmon rear pads, Koolstop 
> low-clearance, E-bike compound front pads
> Cranks: Sakae with 24/36/46 rings, 170mm
> Front Derailleur: Vintage Shimano Deore
> Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
> Cassette: 11-36t, 9 speed
> Wheels: Shimano Deore Hubs, Sun Rhyno Lite rims
> Tires: Compass/Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass
> Pedals: MKS RMX
> Seatpost: Ritchey one-bolter. Chopped and scratched
> Saddle: Giant brand placeholder. You'll want to provide your own Brooks!
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cfZcMP/0/e3011917/X3/i-4cfZcMP-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mR2fkgX/0/4215766b/X3/i-mR2fkgX-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-LdvZGG8/0/d53aa793/X3/i-LdvZGG8-X3.jpg>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-qG9MfqT/0/30788a9a/X3/i-qG9MfqT-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X4XqDd9/0/f9fdd7d1/X3/i-X4XqDd9-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tWCrBvb/0/7c2f8190/X3/i-tWCrBvb-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-39qnh46/0/6b20faa7/X3/i-39qnh46-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QRp6K5Z/0/d9555bf3/X3/i-QRp6K5Z-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tdJX5wj/0/59004034/X3/i-tdJX5wj-X3.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-r9v5LQ8/0/59bd6504/X3/i-r9v5LQ8-X3.jpg>
>
>
> Chris
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 56cm, 26" wheeled Toyo Atlantis

[Christopher Cote]

I'm reluctantly putting my Atlantis up for sale. I'm sure I will regret 
doing this, but it's not really filling a necessary niche in my bike stable 
at this point. This is a Toyo built Atlantis from the early 2000s. Frame 
size is 56cm and the wheels are 26". I bought the frameset used on this 
list last year and built it up with a mix of parts on hand and new stuff. 
The paint on the frame and fork has plenty of honest beausage. The worst of 
which has been touched up with some sparkly green nail polish that looks OK 
from 10 feet away. I recently acquired a bottle of official Atlantis 
touch-up paint, which I will include with the sale. No dents or other 
functional damage to the frame or fork. I'm looking for $1400 plus shipping 
from zip 04093. Local pickup in southern Maine is encouraged if you're 
local! I can substitute the Surly Open Bars with a Nitto drop bar, and I 
have a selection of Technomic stems if you want a different length. What I 
don't have on hand is a spare pair of long-pull drop bar levers, so if you 
want the drop bar option, you'll need to provide your own levers.

Bars: Surly Open Bar
Stem: Nitto Technomic, 10cm (might be 11cm, I'll have to double-check)
Grips: Ergon GP1 Bio Cork
Brake Levers: Shimano Deore
Headset: Shimano Ultegra
Shifters: Dura Ace 9spd bar-ends mounted to Paul Thumbies
Brakes: Shimano Deore V-brakes, Koolstop salmon rear pads, Koolstop 
low-clearance, E-bike compound front pads
Cranks: Sakae with 24/36/46 rings, 170mm
Front Derailleur: Vintage Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
Cassette: 11-36t, 9 speed
Wheels: Shimano Deore Hubs, Sun Rhyno Lite rims
Tires: Compass/Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass
Pedals: MKS RMX
Seatpost: Ritchey one-bolter. Chopped and scratched
Saddle: Giant brand placeholder. You'll want to provide your own Brooks!































Chris

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[RBW] Re: Replace headset on Clem? Cabin fever?

[Christopher Cote]

My two cents (or more):

Don't replace the headset if it's working fine. If you must, I've had 
pretty good success with the threaded-rod-plus-washers DIY solution. You 
need to be very cautious when the cups first start to seat, make sure 
they're going in straight. But it works. I bought a cup remover ages ago, 
and it was well worth the cost. Chiseling out the old cups with a 
screwdriver is no good.

I have no experience with this particular tool, but for $60, it looks worth 
a try:

https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-Headset-Press-Tool-For-1-and-1-18-Headsets

Finally, did you intentionally put the shifter mount facing forwards like 
that? Seems like it would work better flipped over 180 degrees so that the 
shifter is behind the steerer axis. Or does the cable hit the frame when 
you turn the front wheel if it's mounted like that? Is that a shifter mount 
for 1-1/8" steerers? Do they have a mount that clamps on 22.2mm stems?

Chris


On Tuesday, April 21, 2020 at 11:40:27 AM UTC-4, David B wrote:
>
> Maybe I'm just getting into bike projects that aren't necessary 
> whatsoever, but I'm interested in swapping up a couple things on my bikes.
> I've never replaced a headset before, but I'm contemplating upgrading the 
> rinko-style cups that my Clem and wife's Clementine came with for something 
> swankier. 
>
> Questions:
> Is this crazy? The current headsets function fine, purely cosmetic.
> Is this worth it to me to buy the proper tools? I likely won't have a need 
> to change headset aside from these two bikes. Some sort of diy tools?
> Or should I just let my LBS take care of this?
>
> The main reason I'm thinking about this is I added a Silver2 shifter/mount 
> as a headset spacer (works great) and the wider headset cup looks out of 
> place now that everything's a bit cluttered.
> Photo here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> Thoughts/ideas/suggestions welcome!
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: 50cm MIT Atlantis with 26” wheels?

[Christopher Cote]

Well, I guess I would have lost that wager! I took another gamble and 
looked at San Francisco CL, and there it was in "nearby areas"! Yep, MIT 
50cm Atlantis.

Chris


On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 2:53:38 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The MIT 50 is 26", the Rivbike site has it designated wrong on its frame 
> page. See the Garage Sale frame. 
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/copy-of-50cm-atlantis-demo-bike
>
> That Craigslist price dropped this morning, go get it right now!
>
>

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[RBW] 50cm MIT Atlantis with 26” wheels?

[Christopher Cote]

The original Toyo-built Atlantis was available in 47, 51, 53, and 56cm sizes 
with 26" wheels. I'd wager it's a 51cm that the seller is measuring the seat 
tube center-to-center.

Chris

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[RBW] first impressions of Atlantis

[Christopher Cote]

Beautiful bike! You can post pics of a build like that, however, without 
telling us what those bars are! 

Chris

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[RBW] Re: PSA Atlantis Arlington, MA

[Christopher Cote]

Yep, looks just like my 56cm Toyo. I believe that was outed here or on the ibob 
list when it was listed by The Pro's Closet. That looks like a pretty good deal.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: 1x drivetrain question

[Christopher Cote]

I have two bikes set up with 1x11 drivetrains. They're both off-road 
specific rigs.

The first is a Surly Krampus with a Shimano SLX drivetrain. 11-46 cassette 
and a 26t Wolftooth narrow-wide chainring. It works flawlessly. I like not 
having to think about front shifting. The gear range may seem low, but this 
bike has 29x3" wheels, which are around 31" in diameter, so that raises the 
gearing quite a bit. I greared it down so I can spin up the steepest 
climbs. I do run out of higher gears on the rare occasions that I hit the 
pavement. Also, the gaps between the lowest few gears is quite large.

The other bike is a Surly Ice Cream Truck fat bike with 26x5" tires. I'm 
running an 11-50 Sunrace cassette with the same SLX derailleur and shifter 
as the Krampus. I have to use a Wolftooth "GoatLink" to drop the derailleur 
down to clear the 50 tooth cog. This combo shifts OK when everything is 
tuned perfectly. One click either way on the derailleur cable adjuster, or 
a 1/8 turn on the B-tension screw, and it won't shift properly. The large 
gaps between the lowest few gears is obviously worse than on the 11-46 
equipped Krampus.

If I build another 1x bike, it will probably use Shimano 12-speed with a 
10-51 cassette. I am not a fan of SRAM, so I will avoid it at all cost.

For an all-rounder, I think a double or triple crankset is still the best 
way to get a good gear spread and reasonable jumps between gears.

Chris



On Sunday, March 22, 2020 at 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Lithocarpus wrote:
>
> I’m considering setting up my MIT Atlantis with a 1x system and was 
> interested to know if anyone here has done this, what components you used, 
> and if the chain stay length caused any complications. So far, I’m 
> considering a 11x50 SunRace cassette, SRAM eagle GX derailleur, chain, and 
> trigger shifter, but am hoping to use my existing Silver crankset. It’s a 
> triple, but I think the middle chainring position would be aligned 
> correctly. If that crank works, I’d likely throw a guard on it. Long term, 
> I’m interested in a White Industries crankset, but that’s further down the 
> road.
>
> What are your experiences ?  Attached image of the current set up. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Fortunate Timing -- My New MIT Atlantis

[Christopher Cote]

Fantastic build! Enjoy it in good health!

Chris


On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 8:17:04 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> As we’ve all no doubt discovered, social isolation, plain and simple, is 
> not fun.  Going for long walks or rides is a wonderful antidote.  For me, 
> these rides have been doubly fun on my new MIT Atlantis received just last 
> week. James at Analog Cycles helped we work out the build details and his 
> partner Candice built the bike.  I heartily recommend them.
>
>  
>
> Some background before going over the choices I made.   I’m 70 years 
> old.  I still try to ride 3-4 times each week.  Generally, my rides average 
> around 20 miles in length.  Most of my rides are on pavement but some are 
> on paths, dirt roads, etc.  I wanted a bike that would serve my needs 
> extremely well 90% of the time and would be adequate or better the other 
> 10%.  Finally, I think of this as my last bike.  It may not be, but I 
> approached it as if it were.  
>
>  
>
> I am a long-time aficionado of Rivendell bikes.  I own a Toyo A. Homer 
> Hilsen and a SimpleOne (converted to a Rohloff hub).  My wife rides a Betty 
> Foy.  Assuming my new Atlantis meets my goals, I’ll be passing my other 
> bikes along to others.  To start with, I like the classic Rivendell look of 
> silver components. In addition, my component choices reflect some elements 
> of my other RBW bikes.  Other choices were influenced by James at 
> Analog.  Most will consider this a high-end build.  In the end, since I 
> approached it as my last bike, I tended to avoid making compromises.
>
>  
>
> *Frameset: *MIT Atlantis 55 cm, 700c wheels
>
> My AHH is 59 cm and my SimpleOne is 58 cm.  Not surprisingly, I expected 
> to ride a 59 cm MIT Atlantis.  The geometry of the new longer seat stay/top 
> tube MIT Atlantis is such that the shorter seat tube is right on point for 
> me.  Before I understood this, I bought a 59 cm, used (I love the look with 
> the rainbow second top tube).  Thanks to James, however, I switched to a 
> new 55 cm and the seller of the 59 cm was kind enough to take it back.
>
>  
>
> *Headset*: Cane Creek 110 – EC30
>
> As is also the case with bottom brackets (see below), I dithered with the 
> other classic headsets, Chris King, Phil Wood, Tange, etc.  James steered 
> me (pun intended) to the Cane Creek.  I expect my children will use it well.
>
>  
>
> *Handlebars*:  Nitto Bullmoose
>
> These are the bars (with the incorporated stem) I have installed on my 
> AHH.  I prefer bars for which the grip is like grasping a bar running 
> parallel to me rather than shaking hands with a bar that is running 
> alongside me (I sold my Albatrosses some time ago).  Personal 
> preference.  With a 34-degree sweep, these are just right.  In addition, 
> the extra extension running in front gives me a place to attach my 
> handlebar bag and phone while preserving a second location for my hands 
> close to the stem when I’m climbing.
>
>  
>
> *Brakes:*  Paul Motolites with Paul Love 2.5 Levers
>
> I want brakes with a very firm action – no squishiness.  Shimano brakes 
> have always seemed overly squishy.  With these brakes, I now have Paul 
> brakes on all three bikes, Racers on my AHH, Touring Cantilevers on my SO 
> and these Motolites on my MIT Atlantis.  I swear by all three.
>
>  
>
> *Drivetrain: *Rear* - *Shimano XT RD-M772 Shadow 9-speed; Front – Shimano 
> CX-70;
>
> Shifters: Shimano XT Rapid Fire 3x9; Crankset – 
> Middleburn RS7, 170 mm, 44/32/24;
>
> Cassette – Sunrace M9, 9-speed wide ratio 11T-40T
>
> The choices here reflect my age and conditioning as much as any other 
> components.  First, I wanted a drivetrain that would help me ease my way up 
> some significant hills but also allow me to maintain good speed/cadence on 
> the flats.  I chose the RapidFire shifters, which are also on my AHH, 
> because I simply like precise, easy shifting.  James encouraged me to get 
> the Middleburn cranks noting they are beautiful, extremely strong, 
> English-made.  They are available as a triple and have a replaceable 
> spider.  He was right on all accounts – no regrets.
>
>  
>
> *Bottom Bracket: * SKF 110 mm
>
> Not much to say here.  I wanted a trouble-free, sealed BB.  Everything 
> I’ve read suggested this BB is more than up to the task.
>
>  
>
> *Wheels:*  Rims - Velocity Quill 700c; Spokes – Sapim Race; Front Hub – 
> SONdeluxe Widebody 
>
> Dynamo; Rear Hub – Bitex BX103R; Tires – Rene Herse 
> Antelope Hill EL Tubeless
>
> I always think of Grant Petersen’s admonition about the cheapest and most 
> worthwhile component available is air.  Purchasing the MIT Atlantis was 
> integral to increasing the volume of air available to me.  As the MIT 
> Atlantis 55 cm is a brand-new design, there was no way to know before 
> receiving it how large a tire it would accommodate.  A bit surprised, it 
> not only handles the 55 mm wide Antelope Hill, we were also 

[RBW] Re: Crash Stories

[Christopher Cote]

Circa 1999 I was living in Torrance, CA. I used to ride past the Del Amo 
mall to the beach, and head north on the strand up to the power plant at El 
Segundo and turn around and head back. The strand is a concrete strip along 
the beach that is often covered in sand here and there. I hit a patch of it 
in a tight 90 degree corner and was down on the ground before I knew what 
happened. Cracked my helmet and tweaked my neck. I jumped up and got back 
on the bike like nothing happened, but was sore for a very long time. 

Chris "I prefer to wear a helmet when I hit my head on the ground"


On Sunday, March 15, 2020 at 6:40:10 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> On a recent thread, we veered off topic things that might cause crashes. 
> Stories began pouring in, and they were fascinating and useful. I think we 
> should have a new thread here where you can contribute your experiences and 
> the rest of us can learn a thing or two. For instance, I didn’t know a 
> fender unsecured at the seat stay could cause a crash and now I do. I’ll be 
> fixing mine forthwith! 
>
> I feel fortunate not to have any stories to contribute here, but please 
> share yours with us. Some of them might even be funny. (We’ll be laughing 
> WITH you.) 
> Leah

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[RBW] Re: PSA 58cm Rivendell Custom 26"

[Christopher Cote]

As a point of reference, the ""Doc" Steve Custom Special" from Riv is $2200. 
I'd expect to pay more for a bike from Riv, than for one from a private 
citizen. eBay means potentially a slightly higher price than here, which should 
be slightly more than Craigslist or FB marketplace, IMHO. BTW, interesting to 
see Riv selling a used bike. I like it.

Chris, who would definitely be interested in the 58cm 26" custom if he didn't 
already own a 26" wheel Atlantis.

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[RBW] FS: Clem Smith Jr Disc 59

[Christopher Cote]

I wish it was the next size smaller. Maybe I'm glad it's not.

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Sycamore Canyon is a perfect place

[Christopher Cote]

One of the rules of the internet that I've observed over the past 25 years is 
that if someone posts something without giving a location, chances are 100% 
it's in California.

Chris on the other coast.

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Re: [RBW] Raid Bill's Stable: Nine bikes available For Sale

[Christopher Cote]

Hi Bill, what are the bars on the Roscoe Bubbe?

Chris

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[RBW] Looking for an all-road bike to hire for a week in Boston area

[Christopher Cote]

Sent you a PM.

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Raid Bill's Stable: Nine bikes available For Sale

[Christopher Cote]

Is the Atlantis a Waterford or MIT model?Do you have a link to the geometry? 
The current chart on Riv's website doesn't list a 56cm model. Thanks!

Chris

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[RBW] The Stem Chronicles: Will this get me injured?

[Christopher Cote]

I'd like to chime in to say that on Rivendell bikes, you need to have the stem 
inserted somewhat more than the Max line would suggest. With the longer 
threaded portion of steerer tube that Riv uses, putting a stem at the max line 
may still leave the wedge in the threaded portion of a stem. as an extreme 
example, I found that a Profile Boa stem could not be used on my Atlantis due 
to this. The stem simply could not be inserted deep enough to get the wedge 
below the threads in the steerer. I like to hold the stem up next to the 
headtube and mark the stem with a new line that shows me how much it needs to 
be inserted to get the top of the wedge well below the upper headset cup.

Chris

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[RBW] 58cm Rivendell Quickbeam for sale

[Christopher Cote]

Oops, I meant 56cm in the earlier ad...

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[RBW] 58cm Rivendell Quickbeam for sale

[Christopher Cote]

This was outed on another thread. It was listed as a 58cm in your first CL ad. 
Can you confirm the size? Also, can you give us the story behind the caliper 
brakes and repaint?

Chris

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[RBW] My Clem Build

[Christopher Cote]

Very nice! I think the Clem and Jones bars are a great combo.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: MUSA Pants

[Christopher Cote]

I received my pants today. I have to say that they are very nice. 
Definitely a cut above typical cycling clothing in quality. The fit is 
excellent. My 32" actual waist (typically wear pants labeled 30", yay 
vanity sizing!) fits the medium pants very well, and the length is 
sufficient for my 85cm PBH. The cuffs are slim, but I can still just pull 
them up over my knees (not something I would do, just a data point). I 
expect the right cuff will brush the outer chainring, so I'll plan on 
wearing an ankle strap on the bike. I can fit my Fox knee pads under the 
pants comfortably. Very happy overall.

Chris


On Friday, December 13, 2019 at 10:30:50 AM UTC-5, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> The new pants are available to order. I just ordered a pair of mediums. 
> $107 (shipped) for a pair of pants is bonkers. I get it, USA manufactured, 
> small batch, lots of overhead... I'm hoping to be blown away by how good 
> they are. Anyone else order some?
>
> Chris
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MUSA Pants

[Christopher Cote]

The new ones are supposed to be less baggy. Sounds like they aren't letting 
Grant design clothing anymore (or he's willingly passed that task on). The 
new ones are also a polyester/lycra blend. I think that will be good from a 
fit and comfort perspective, but potentially far less durable than the 100% 
nylon that the original pants used.

Chris


On Saturday, December 14, 2019 at 9:40:10 AM UTC-5, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> I love mine.  I have three pair, 2 gray, 1 black.  The black do seem 
> smaller.  At any rate, I wear them almost every day and have found them to 
> wear extremely well.
>
> Bill S
>

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[RBW] MUSA Pants

[Christopher Cote]

The new pants are available to order. I just ordered a pair of mediums. $107 
(shipped) for a pair of pants is bonkers. I get it, USA manufactured, small 
batch, lots of overhead... I'm hoping to be blown away by how good they are. 
Anyone else order some?

Chris

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[RBW] Re: President and Mrs. Carter's Rivendells

[Christopher Cote]

Joey, I'm glad to hear that. I was afraid it might be something like "Yeah, 
they had these old, heavy steel bikes with kickstands and paperboy handlebars. 
Didn't even have indexed shifting. The new Globes were a huge upgrade. We 
played dumpster toss with the old bikes until the frames were unrideable. Took 
a long time, though!"

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Let me introduce my new friend, Sam, properly

[Christopher Cote]

Thanks. I assumed that the 55cm Sam was my size, but my saddle height has been 
creeping down over the past few years, and I run it around 72cm now. Your 
saddle height isn't much lower than mine, and it looks like you can get the 
bars at saddle height without an unreasonable amount of stem quill showing. 
That opens the possibility of 650b for me.

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Let me introduce my new friend, Sam, properly

[Christopher Cote]

Jason, the build with the Ultradynamico tires is killer! Can I ask what your 
saddle height is in the pic?

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Gus or Susie?/Threadless Weight vs Quill Weight?

[Christopher Cote]

Rivendell has made it a specific point to not post the geometry. I think 
there was a diagram with numbers leaked but retracted at one point, but not 
100% sure on that. Rivelo just posted this info on their blog, which at 
least gives the top tube dimensions. It also introduces yet another version 
of the PBH range chart for each size that doesn't match previously posted 
charts.

http://www.rivelopdx.com/blog/2019/11/17/83pxriewy1hast2um9lep4qs34y70h

Chris


On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 11:16:51 AM UTC-5, Andy Beichler wrote:
>
> Is there a brochure yet where I can look at geometry, etc? I like the 
> looks of the Gus (way too heavy for the Susie) better than most bikes these 
> days and wonder if it would make a good all rounder.
>
> On Saturday, November 16, 2019 at 7:05:14 AM UTC-5, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>> Good morning,
>>
>>
>> I’m seriously considering buying one of Rivendell’s forthcoming 
>> Hillibikes and am having a difficult time deciding between the Gus and 
>> Susie.  Would you mind weighing in with your opinion? So far, I’ve got 1 
>> vote for the Gus, 2 for the Susie. 
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: It's getting to be that time of year again: Time to order stuff from Rivendell

[Christopher Cote]

I was sorely tempted by the Clem deal emailed out today. I resisted, and 
instead ordered some Albatross bars and Sun Race brake levers for my Heron 
Touring. Hopefully that will put it back into the riding rotation, as I'm 
losing my interest in drop bars.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Alternative ride report for the Gorey Hollows Ride and Race

[Christopher Cote]

Any pics from the shorter "Ramble"? That's more my speed. I need to make the 
trip over to see you guys at some point. I love riding in VT.

Chris

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Re: [RBW] OT: non-bike hobbies

[Christopher Cote]

@Brian, you can't post that without telling us the name of your band(s)! Got to 
check you out on Spotify!

Chris

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[RBW] Re: All Rounder

[Christopher Cote]

Judas!

Sorry, couldn't help myself, haha. Very nicely done. That's the classiest 
electric motorcycle with pedals anyone will ever see. Enjoy!

Chris

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[RBW] BB splines slight small?

[Christopher Cote]

Any chance it's got a Phil Wood BB in there? If so, you'll need the Phil Wood 
tool. Possibly two of them when you go to reinstall. Easiest way to tell is if 
the non drive side cup doesn't have a shoulder outside the BB she'll like a 
Shimano or Range would have. In other words, both cups look the same.

Chris

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[RBW] All Rounder

[Christopher Cote]

RR03 has an AllRounder geo chart that lists a 52.5cm (CTT) seat tube and a 
55.5cm top tube. I don't know about you, but trying to measure top tubes from 
the intersection of the seat tube to the intersection of the head tube with a 
tape measure is pretty difficult for me. I'd put my measurements at +/- 0.5cm 
at best. Also, it's not often talked about, but hand made frames from even the 
best builder can be off spec a bit. I'd wager yours is "stock". In any case, 
that's one of the nicest looking bikes I've seen in a while! Enjoy!

Chris

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[RBW] Roadeo on Cycle Greater Yellowstone 2019

[Christopher Cote]

Beautiful bike, and looks like a great ride. Which SMP saddle is that?

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Chacos vs. Bedrocks

[Christopher Cote]

I prefer the Chaco Z1 strap system to the Bedrocks. I don't love the tall heel 
of the Chacos, I prefer the zero-drop sole that Bedrock offers. As others have 
stated, the Chacos are heavy. I didn't bond with the original Bedrocks, but the 
new ones with the 3D footbed are working out pretty well for me. If Chaco would 
make a zero drop Z1, that would be perfect.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: 26” tire advice

[Christopher Cote]

I believe the 26" Atlantis was designed for Rat Traps Pass tires, 15 or so 
years in advance. Get the RTPs. You won't regret it.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars for Gus Boots & Siblings?

[Christopher Cote]

Note how the grips on that bike are behind the steerer. A reversed stem and 
drop bars is just another way to achieve the same thing. Nothing to wonder 
about.

Chris

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[RBW] Ergon grips/ map, waive, Jones bars

[Christopher Cote]

Correction, it's the Kalloy "Tourist" bar.

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[RBW] Ergon grips/ map, waive, Jones bars

[Christopher Cote]

I have the Ergon GP1 Biocork grips on Kalloy "Trekking" bars on my Atlantis. 
That's a 40-ish degree swept bar. I like it very much, but wish it was a tad 
wider. The grips are perfect, though. If whatbars.com ever gets the Wavie bar 
uploaded, I may see if that will give me a similar sweep, but more width.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Pool noodle as a safety device

[Christopher Cote]

I'm with you D. Patrick. If it's a cycle with a motor, it's a motorcycle. 
Electric, gas, whatever. I'm not anti motorcycle, I own and enjoy one. Just 
keep the motors off the bicycle paths/trails.

Chris

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[RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Christopher Cote]

I prefer a dirt drop style stem to a Technomic with more than 3 or 4 inches of 
exposed quill. Seeing a Technomic maxed out looks all wrong to me. Just my 2 
cents.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: PSA Quickbeam on Craigslist in Bar Harbor, ME

[Christopher Cote]

Wally, I found your pics in the "bike swap find" thread. I'd wager it's the 
same bike. I do not need a Quickbeam, I do not need a Quickbeam, I do not need 
a Quickbeam...

Chris

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[RBW] PSA Quickbeam on Craigslist in Bar Harbor, ME

[Christopher Cote]

Gorgeous orange QB in 58cm for $1000:

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/bar-harbor-rivendell-quickbeam/6888448139.html

Not mine, too far away for me to help with a sale, and sadly, my knees can't 
handle singlespeed any longer. Hope it goes to a loving home.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: stripped derailleur hanger threads

[Christopher Cote]

I should add that I've used similar thread inserts for other applications like 
a stripped oil pan drain threads. They work very well, and if done carefully, 
are better than the original threads.

Chris

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[RBW] stripped derailleur hanger threads

[Christopher Cote]

I've never had to use the Wheels dropout saver, but it seems a perfectly 
reasonable solution. The only thing you're drilling out are threads that are so 
damaged as to be worthless.

Another, possibly more invasive, solution is to have someone braze some brass 
into the threads, and tap threads into that. It will burn some paint off, and 
brass is softer than steel, so those threads won't be very strong.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Buy a Clem (from Rivendel) and get a $750 store credit(!)

[Christopher Cote]

Collin, how did the race go? Please tell us you kept the basket on!

Chris

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[RBW] Any 90ish PBH folks riding a 52 Clem H?

[Christopher Cote]

I don't see why you'd want to ride with your seat that much lower off-road. 
Maybe a few mm. Mountain bikers have been riding gnarly terrain with normal 
seat heights for decades.

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[RBW] Brifter setup for my Sam: looking for options

[Christopher Cote]

Sorry, it's Gevenalle.

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[RBW] Brifter setup for my Sam: looking for options

[Christopher Cote]

Check out the shifters available from Genevalle. Never used them, but they look 
like a really interesting solution.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: 5cm Stem or shorter

[Christopher Cote]

Not as elegant as a Nitto stem, you can get a quill stem adapter and put a 
threadless style stem on it. MTB stems are available down to 30mm or so, 
thanks to the downhill crowd. Or, you could get one of those adjustable 
angle stems and point it up high. That would reduce the reach. Heavy and 
cheap looking, though.

Chris


On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 1:05:54 PM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> HI 
> I'm looking for a short extension stem.
> I'd like to make my new Appaloosa a drop bar bike and I'm on a size that 
> is big for me,...fit's but big. 55cm seat tube, 60cm top tube
> From all my futzing it seems like 4cm stem with noodles or dirt drops 
> would do the trick.  I know I can easily buy a Technomic 5cm but curious if 
> there are other options out there that may be a centimeter or two shorter?
>

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Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.