Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[Harry Travis]

Patrick, I don't expect to see tomato skins advertised as a cut-resistant layer and shield in bike tires because we know that short of getting out the serrated knife, the way to get into a tomato with a not-sharp edge is to puncture it easily with the knife tip ...or a goat head.Anyway, it is entirely possible that TPU of sufficient thickness is more thorn resistant than butyl rubber or latex. Just as we would expect of woven metal fabric. This is materials science stuff.--Harry P Travis17.4.1On May 17, 2024, at 2:22 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Good to have an opinion of Schwalbe 14A butyls versus at least 1 brand of TPU tubes; perhaps I'm well enough off with the Schwalbe butyl extralights which, besides, do very well amongst goatheads with OS regular forumla.On Fri, May 17, 2024 at 9:38 AM Ted Durant <teddur...@gmail.com> wrote:On May 16, 2024, at 11:52 PM, Harry Travis <travis.ha...@gmail.com> wrote:"I was much less impressed by the ride quality of the thicker TPU tubes. Though they still weigh less than butyl tubes, they don’t have the same buoyant feeling of the lighter weight models. They changed the feel of the bike completely; it felt like I was riding on cheap tires—or garden hoses—instead of the high end tires I was testing. "Note that the heaviest tube he rode on weighed 110g and is for a 35-40mm tire. But then he discerned inferior ride quality, too, from a 65g tube compared to a 30zI also have some Foss tubes that I have used in 584-42 and 584-48 Rene Herse ultralight tires, and I have used Scwhalbe #13 (standard) and #14A (extra light) tubes in those same tires. None of them make the tires feel like garden hoses, IMO. I never had to patch a Foss tube, but I haven’t put huge miles on them. I had what I think is more than a normal amount flats with the extra light butyl tubes, but I wouldn’t say that’s a certainty because wet roads and old tires are the primary risk factors and I can’t say I’ve controlled for that.I would rank order the tubes as you’d expect for “ride feel” -RH TPUSchwalbe extra lightFossSchwalbe standardI don’t think there’s much difference in feel between Foss and Schwalbe standard tubes, and the difference between RH TPU and Schwalbe extra light is pretty small.All just one man’s opinion.Ted DurantMilwaukee WI USA



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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[Harry Travis]

On hyperbole of tires "transformed to garden hoses" - for ride quality - by using thicker TPU tubes: Worse than that, bullshit / BS, with the writer indifferent to the truth value.Or a parody of the kind that Bike Snob New York fed on..Too bad that it undercuts the serious value of that review: his own numerous reports of plastic valve failures. Not to mention punctures (which may have been a coincidence)Here are weights of lighter/road versions of tubes, followed by evaluation of ride quality. 46gRide quality not as good as lightest tubes36gRide quality not on par with thinnest designs26gRide quality is very good44gA little bit heavier tube meant ride quality was not as good as thinner competitors25gRide quality of road tube is very good30gRide quality is excellentSo, this evaluator had such exquisite sensitivity that 6-16g grams per tire was discernible. --Harry P TravisPortland Oregon USA 17.4.1On May 17, 2024, at 5:42 AM, Steve  wrote:Regarding the ability of "thicker TPU tubes" to transform a "high end tire" into "garden hoses"  -- do I detect a note of hyperbole? On Friday, May 17, 2024 at 12:53:14 AM UTC-4 travis...@gmail.com wrote:Then there is this froth from the sometime racer who tried several TPU tubes for Cuvling Weekly "I was much less impressed by the ride quality of the thicker TPU tubes. Though they still weigh less than butyl tubes, they don’t have the same buoyant feeling of the lighter weight models. They changed the feel of the bike completely; it felt like I was riding on cheap tires—or garden hoses—instead of the high end tires I was testing. "Note that the heaviest tube he rode on weighed 110g and is for a 35-40mm tire. But then he discerned inferior ride quality, too, from a 65g tube compared to a 30zCan you trust TPU tubes in a pinch? Best TPU tubes ridden and reviewed 2024cyclingweekly.com--Harry P TravisPortland Oregon USA 17.4.1On May 16, 2024, at 5:32 PM, Ted Durant <tedd...@gmail.com> wrote:Final update from me. Rene Herse has been very good about it and is refunding me for the tubes that had the valve stem attachments fail.Ted DurantMilwaukee WI USA



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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[Harry Travis]

It had never occurred to me that in a pinch - pun- I might ever try to stuff part of a longer tube back into itself, while barely inflated,   in order to shorten it before inflating it within a tire.--Harry P TravisPortland Oregon USA 17.4.1On May 15, 2024, at 10:02 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:I'd like to try latex tubes (hell, I'd like to try TPUs if they had a better reputation) but latex tubes aren't made in 559" wheel sizes.Has anyone tried and had success with installing appropriately wide latex tubes in smaller diameter wheels by folding the tube to fit? Results?



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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[Harry Travis]

Ted:I am interested in all parts and the whole  of your report. Assuming you are saving a plausible 8 watts per pair of tires and riding hard or briskly, you would not be riding a lot faster, but you could enjoy the latex-tube feel and the ease you have when pushing hard and having a bit more.bicycle rolling resistance tested 4 or 5 them, including unmarked rebadges.Cost aside and despite what seems, post Covid experience,  an explosion in the market for tpu gloves, it is no surprise to me that the QC has not developed for the tube -stem interface with the new material. It is a trailing edge niche market, what with lower pressures permitting greater adoption of tubeless.  I doubt the number of engineers have been at work on the problem as have developed reliable attachment of tube and stem over more than a century and in hundreds of factories.On the attractiveness of the compact size for backup / spare. Yes, we've been there before with CO2 cartridges. How many are enough, three? Haha. And a back-up for the inflator? How burdensome, instead, is a mini-pump?TPU Inner Tubes Testbicyclerollingresistance.com--Harry P Travis17.4.1On May 7, 2024, at 4:02 PM, Ted Durant  wrote:Update on my experience. I continue to like the ones that successfully inflated on my 700x32 tires. Yesterday I took out that bike for the first time in a couple of weeks and the tires were quite soft. So, the tubes don't retain air as well as butyl, but it's not worse enough to be a problem. And I did a pretty hard ride and was pleased with how fast it ended up being.I also ordered some 650x48 tubes, but RH sent me 700x48. By the time they responded to my inquiry they were sold out of the 650's. Fortunately the next batch arrived pretty quickly and they promptly sent them to me. I mounted those today and once again needed 3 tubes to get 2 wheels done. These ones felt sturdier than the 700c skinny ones, but maybe it was just the extra width. Installation went fine, but as I inflated it the valve stem got sucked up into the rim. Weird! Deflated, checked for any snagging, and tried again, same result. Repeat, same result. So I decided to remove the tube and see what was going on. The tube came right out of the tire, minus the valve stem which this time stayed firmly put in the rim, fully detached from the tube.RH still hasn't responded to my inquiry about the two 700c tubes that failed, which I sent back with the mis-shipped tubes. After this one, at 3 out 9 tubes failing, I am well put off by these. I certainly wouldn't carry one as a spare ... I'd have to carry at least three to feel confident that in crappy field conditions and dead tired I'd be able to successfully install one. I also think that doing a patch in the field would be a roll of the dice - no way to be sure you could get the tube out without tearing it. I'm very interested to hear the experience of others. Could be user error. But I have over 50 years of wrenching experience, including 2 summers in a bike shop, so if these are beyond my skill level, it's pretty hard to see how these would be useful to anyone but a competitive rider with a budget (or product sponsorship) and highly skilled support.Ted DurantMilwaukee WI USA



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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

[Harry Travis]

Patrick:As Roseanne Rosanadanna said many times and many years ago: "You sure gotta lotta questions." Which are the same question.Go to a bike shop and hand over a $tenner for a collection of used / worn cassettes, explaining that spider-less ones are of special interest because you want spacers, not cogs.Why you want only Shimano and not SRAM or any aftermarket cassettes spacers is something you can keep secret. Me? I get infinite miles out of cassette spacers. And they are in my DEI program and practice--Harry P TravisPortland Oregon USA 17.4.1On Apr 2, 2024, at 10:54 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:I forgot to add that Sheldon says 2.35 mm for 10 sp; but mine (assume 10 sp because so ordered) are 2.04, again consistently with Park digital caliper. Is 2.04 (or 2 mm -- willing to consider 4/100 mm user or instrument error, or mfr error) for 11 speed? At any rate, my various 10 sp home brew cassettes have been shifting wonderfully with the 2.04 mm ones.And someone on the RBW list pointed me to the right page on AliExpress where I can find 2.35, 2.18, and 2.0 as well as 2.5 mm. Just want clarification on the 2.0/2.04 and confirmation for the 2.35.It's all so confusing.On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:43 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:ISO at least 7 and better 9, 10-speed spacers. Happy to salvage from worn out cassette. Please? $, trade, or charity.Question: Where can I find a reliable chart showing manufacturer's (Shimano; not interested in other mfrs) width specs for spacers and cogs for 9, 10, and 11 speed drivetrains? If chains included, so much the better. Sheldon has a chart that includes 9 and 10 but does not include 11 but I'd like to compare 11 and confirm 9 and 10.The 2 spare 10-sp cassette spacers I have (red plastic, ordered for Shimano 10 sp from Cycle Clinic)  measure 2.04 mm, but I stumbled across 6 alum spacers that measure 2mm. Are these alum spacers for 11 sp?At any rate, I would like to find at least 7, better 9 2.04 mm spacers for the Shimano spline pattern.I can find them new online for $6 per + shipping; can't find them on AliExpress; if youse plural have online sources reasonably priced, I'd be grateful to hear of them.Thanks.On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 2:34 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:Welp, the otherwise very competent LBS that built my new Oracle Ridge wheelset flubbed my special order of a dozen 10-sp Shimano spacers. I stole the spacers from the older, Soma slick wheelset, but I'd like to find at least 9 and up to a dozen 10 sp spacers. A second LBS I checked with just now doesn't carry loose spacers, at least, unless you can find them in an  ods-and-ends bin.
-- Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum---Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services---When thou didst not, savage, know thine own meaning,But wouldst gabble like a thing most brutish,I endowed thy purposes with words that made them known.



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Re: [RBW] Digest for rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 9 topics

[Harry Travis]

Go to ebay and find current or recently offered cordura canvas briefcase from 
Arkel. Bulletproof lifetime guaranteed zipper and attachment Clip to bike rack.
Likely comes with stiffener and a sleeve for laptop, etc. 
 $50 + shipping? 

Or, Arkel likely offers one to meet current fashion sensibility.

Daily User of Arkel for 15 years. They are readily disassembled so they can be 
laundered of all dirt. 

--
Harry P Travis
15.6

On Aug 11, 2022, at 11:27 PM, rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:


rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com   Google Groups   
Topic digest 
View all topics
One Rivendell to rule them all - 5 Updates
Canti-Rom - 63 cm - CA Delivery - 4 Updates
Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width) - 6 Updates
WTB/ISO: Handsome laptop-sized pannier - 4 Updates
FS: Clem Smith L 59cm (Utah) - 2 Updates
FS: Sackville Items - 1 Update
Clem H curious - 1 Update
FS: Rivendell Atlantis - 56cm, 650b (2017 Model) - 1 Update
Jobst Brandt photo archive on instagram - 1 Update
One Rivendell to rule them all
Alexander Chalmers : Aug 11 08:44AM -0700 

Hi all,
 
I'm a new group member but long time Riv fan. I recently came the closest 
I've come to actually buying Rivendell, having only recently reached a 
point where it has not felt out of reach financially. Anyway, it got me 
wondering - what is the one model you would choose, current or 
discontinued, if you could only have one?
 
Alternately, what is your favorite Rivendell you have owned?
 
Asking in part because I am wondering where to start myself - I've wanted a 
Hunqapillar for a long time, and recently have become a bit obsessed with 
the Quickbeam as well - but every model seems great in its own way. Mostly 
just curious what you all find yourself riding the most though!
Richard Rose : Aug 11 08:44PM -0400 

If memory serves, I think Rivendell themselves asked this same question on 
their Instagram page. There were quite a few responses. 
As for me, got to be my Clem L. 
The long wheelbase with room for big tires are available on several models, but 
only one is a step through. Game changer. Well actually the Platy is a step 
through also but I’ve not had the pleasure.
 
Sent from my iPhone
 
Joe Bernard : Aug 11 10:20PM -0700 

Welcome Alexander! 
 
My answer is a cheat because I'd pick my custom but it kinda translates to 
a production model which would also be my pick, Platypus. Lugged frame, low 
stepover, beautiful paint (I love the Mermaid ones, and Leah Bicycle Belle 
Ding Ding's Raspberry), semi-light tubing for a lively road ride, maybe not 
the first choice for heavy loads or hardcore trails. 
 
But that's my 'light for pavement' bias; models like Atlantis, Appaloosa, 
Hunqapillar, Bombadil and Clem H/L are better choices for heavier duty 
stuff. 
 
Joe Bernard 
 
Emily Guise : Aug 11 11:05PM -0700 

My Platypus for sure. For the mostly in-town riding I've been doing for the 
last year, it's been a dream. Such a smooth ride! So gorgeous! She garners 
fans wherever she goes.
 
I actually felt very guilty about spending so much money on a bike (even 
though some of it was Uncle Sam's stimulus $$), but the Platy really is a 
functional work of art, so I got over the guilt eventually. If you ever 
have a chance to get a Riv, Alexander, I don't think you'd regret it. I 
hope it happens for you!
 
-Emily
 
On Thursday, August 11, 2022 at 10:20:32 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
 
Joe Bernard : Aug 11 11:26PM -0700 

So pretty, Emily! I haven't seen a LimeOlive Platy in a while and kinda 
forgot how striking they are. Love the grips, too! 
 
On Thursday, August 11, 2022 at 11:05:13 PM UTC-7 Emily Guise wrote:
 
Back to top
Canti-Rom - 63 cm - CA Delivery
jim <4421...@gmail.com>: Aug 11 03:20PM -0700 

Beautiful bike!
I used to have one and regret selling it. Of course with my arthritis I 
probably couldn't ride it 
 
On Wednesday, August 10, 2022 at 9:07:56 PM UTC-5 Philip Williamson wrote:
 
Dan Sullivan : Aug 10 07:38PM -0700 

these are a great color. I've got one that shares time with my BMC 
monstercross. Really a nice, light, fast bike and it seems like everyone 
who sees it comments on the color. I run 38 Gravel Kings that are wonderful 
tires.
 
Dan in the driftless hills of SW Wisconsin
 
On Wednesday, August 10, 2022 at 9:07:56 PM UTC-5 Philip Williamson wrote:
 
Mike Godwin : Aug 11 10:11PM -0700 

Is said bike still traveling with you Jim? I converted 88 cm to inches. 
Having a 90.5 PBH, that leaves to little clearance for the uh, gentlemen, 
and leaves me out of the running. Dang cool bike! Great talking with you on 
Saturday and wish you good journeys on the remainder of your holiday.
 
Mike SLO CA 
On Sunday, August 7, 2022 at 12:15:48 PM UTC-7 Jimmy Warren wrote:
 
James Warren : Aug 11 11:01PM -0700 

Yeah Mike,
 
Still on the road with me till around the 17th.
Great talking to you too!
 
 
Back to top
Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)
Ben Adrian : Aug 11 10:34AM -0700 

I just put the 70

Re: [RBW] Re: 50.4 crankset opinions: VeloOrange, SUNXCD, Grand Bois

[Harry Travis]

Has anyone else found differences in Q and chainline among the 50.4 cranksets? 
I swapped in a Sugino PX with shorter crank arms in for a V-O, and found less 
clearance to the chainstays on both sides- at least 2mm per side. 

I prefer the look of the rare Sugino, and sorted front derailleur issues 
required by the swap. A bit fussy to set up with 46-30 and similar chainring 
doubles, as no front ders were made for it. 

--
Harry P Travis
Portland, OR USA
14.6

On Jun 7, 2021, at 10:38 AM, 'Will Horton' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. Really hard decision overall. I ended up 
ordering the SUNXCD cranks in 172.5 and 46/30 from veloduo. I really wanted 
44/30 or 44/28 but that range was out of stock. I almost went for the 
cloverleaf chainring version as they had the gear range I wanted but I really 
prefer the 6 arm style I think.

On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 8:20:56 AM UTC-7 Jim Bronson wrote:
> Yes,  I'm currently running chainrings without ramps and pins with a 10 speed 
> cassette and indexed shifting in the back.   No issues, or at least, nothing 
> that's an issue for me. 
> 
> I don't have the 50.4BCD setup (and would not be interested in acquiring it 
> as my body requires high Q) as per the topic of this thread,  but just as a 
> side response to the reply of,  "you can't use regular chainrings with more 
> than 8 speed.  I have an older a 135BCD Shimano triple that I use with a 
> bashguard in place of the big ring.  It was shiny silver at one point but 
> after years of hard use,  decidedly less so.   But anyway...
> 
> It doesn't shift as snappy up front as an indexed setup with brifters and 
> ramps and pins and all that, but I don't really care.  I'm using bar ends as 
> a proper drop bar equipped Rivendell should.   And I'm not in that much of a 
> hurry.
> 
> Using 44/28 in front and 11-32 in the back,  I find that the need to drop 
> down to the lower range up front is fairly infrequent anyway.  Usually only 
> used on brevets where the ride organizer sends the route up some nutty 15-20% 
> grade to test our mettle, I guess. 
> 
> On Sat, Jun 5, 2021, 07:06 Bill Schairer  wrote:
>> I've been running 3x9 with a TA crank and a Stronglight for years without 
>> any issues.  I also ran 3x10 for a while.  Currently have 47/44/26 TA and 
>> 50/45/26 Stronglight (with TA rings) and they both shift quite well with no 
>> ramps and pins.  What are those for?  I think the Stronglight arms had  a 
>> better finish than the TA's but I think they are harder to come by.
>> 
>> One and only one supplier and no odd tooth count rings are my biggest issues 
>> with Rene Herse.  I could probably get over the single supplier and cost if 
>> they offered odd tooth count.
>> 
>> Bill S
>> San Diego
>> 
>> On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 8:43:16 PM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Forgot those links:
>>> 
>>> https://specialites-ta.com/pro-5-vis/196-693-pro-5-vis-plateau-specialites-ta-pro-5-vis-exterieur-80mm-8v-specialites-ta-pl50080302.html#/21,denture,40-dts
>>> 
>>> https://specialites-ta.com/pro-5-vis/197-707-pro-5-vis-plateau-specialites-ta-pro-5-vis-interieur-intermediaire-80mm-8v-specialites-ta-pl50080102.html#/9,denture,26-dts
>>> 
>>> I believe Velo Classique in Virginia is the US distributor for Specialites 
>>> TA. Obviously, there are also UK/European retailers that ship to the US.
>>> 
>>> The one key drawback to 5-pin TA chainrings is that the rings aren't 
>>> ramped/pinned; you're effectively capped at an 8-speed rear. But really, do 
>>> you need more than 3x8 gears?
>>> 
>>> Peter Adler
>>> specializing in beating dead horses in
>>> Berkeley, CA/USA
>>> 
>>> On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 8:34:48 PM UTC-7 Peter Adler wrote:
>>>> Large selection of chainring sizes? C'est très humoristique!
>>>> 
>>>> Specialites TA (still in business; still producing 50.4mm cyclotouriste 
>>>> chainrings in France, now in 7075 aluminum) make outers (attaches to 
>>>> crankarm) in all even increments from 40-52T, and inners (attaches to 
>>>> outers) from 26-42T.
>> 
> 
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[RBW] WTB: Billie Bar

[Travis Breitenbach]

I’m eager to give the Billie Bar a try, but it’s out of stock. Does anyone have 
one they wouldn’t mind parting with?

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Re: [RBW] FS Sam hillborne complete

[Travis Music]

Asking 1700 for it email me at never...@yahoo.com
Not sure how to use this google group to upload pictures 

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[RBW] FS Sam hillborne complete

[Travis Music]

Selling my Riv. It has been a great bike and is built to be a bullet proof rig 
have travelled many miles with it but it time to move on to another bike.  
9speed triple front index or friction shifting. Salsa rack. Seat not included. 

36 hole velocity wheels with XT hubs 
Frame is a 56 cm 
XT front 
Deore rear 
Tektro brakes long reach to accommodate big rubber up 700x43
Schwalbe marathon supreme tires 700x35
Deda seat post 
Cane creek brake levers

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer bike fitting. Your thoughts on my situation.

[Travis]

 Everything in moderation. In my experience, allowing my saddle too much 
 setback caused some other problems to appear - less control, a stiffer 
 lower back, and more knee pain. So yes, I think a saddle can have too much 
 set-back.


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[RBW] Re: Rim Width Question

[Travis]

Philip, that calculator is great! I'm going to use it all the time.
Thank you, that hard work is appreciated!

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[RBW] Re: Just a Review of my Bombadil

[Travis]

Thanks for sharing!

How do you like it with baskets front and rear? It seems incredibly
useful, but I'm worried about the ride with the large one in back.

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[RBW] Re: Just a Review of my Bombadil

[Travis]

Holy Moly!

You got lucky for sure. I'm glad you got you Riv back.

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[RBW] Re: Cable Adjuster Fetish

[Travis]

Very cool. My bike is wearing a pair of those Kirk adjusters as well,
they look great.

On Mar 25, 10:20 am, Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com wrote:
 a friend turned me on these trick little adjusters from Hunter Cycles
 made specifically for Paul cantilever brakes.  I know folks here love
 their Paul cantis, so check 'em out.  super simple. super convenient.
 And for the fetish-wary, these are more Norma Jeane-ish.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/huntercycles/5428452060/in/photostream/

 I also picked up some of Dave Kirk's brass barrel adjusters, which
 work great and look great.  More Marilyn Monroe-ish.  but not over-the-
 top happy birthday, Mr. President Marilyn.

 http://www.kirkframeworks.com/accessories.htm

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[RBW] Re: Gray Shimano derailer cable housing busted

[Travis]

Hi Gernot,

I did not have a basket on that bike and there was no visible wear on
the plastic coating of my housing. However, I'm sure wear like yours
certainly doesn't help. Perhaps you could try putting a little bit of
heat shrink tubing (can be found in the electrical dept. of hardware
stores) on your replacement cable housing to protect them at that wear
point. I also think you're on the right track with that washer on your
shifters. Way to kick that problem in the pants!

By the way, I've admired your photo sets in the past. Beautiful! I'm
jealous of your local. How do you feel about visitors, haha?

Best,
Travis

On Mar 22, 3:14 am, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Travis,

 thanks for the info. Do you have a basket on that bike? Upon closer
 inspection, I believe that contact between the housing and my rattan
 basket caused the plastic to wear through which caused the rupture.
 See a photo of the other spot where the housing contacted the basket:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/5548985681/

 I will replace the right side housing shortly, since it shows the same
 wear. I also swapped and turned the washers that came with the Silver
 shifters so that the little hook now prevents excess lever travel:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/5548985783/

 Cheers,

 Gernot

 On Mar 22, 1:44 am, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote:

  Oh oh oh! I had exactly the same thing happen in the exactly the same
  way with some brand new Jagwire derailleur housing, I mean exactly. I
  believe it just has to do with the way derailleur housing is built.
  The strands of wires inside are all running parallel to the cable, and
  if you put enough tension on the cable at a bend it will pull through
  those strands in order to straighten itself.

  To prevent repeat episodes, I set my front derailleur shifter up so
  that it is physically restricted by the shifter pod at the exact point
  at which the front derailleur is hitting the limit screw for the big
  ring. So, when I'm in the big ring my bar-end shifter is pointing
  upward, and when I'm in the small ring my shifter is parallel to the
  ground. I don't think it looks quite as nice this way, but I got over
  it quick and never have to worry about busting the housing.

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[Travis]

I've searched extensively as well and cannot find anything
scientifically convincing. However, here are a couple of very simple
questions which may be helpful:

1) Do helmets reduce the extent of head or neck injuries incurred by
impact to the head?
2) Does cycling increase the likelihood of impact to the head, whether
or not a helmet is in use?

If you have a suspicion that the answer to each of these questions is
Yes, you should probably wear a helmet.

Travis Breitenbach

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[Travis]

Ann, to indulge your semantic reply I will change #2:

2) Does cycling dramatically increase your risk of suffering brain
damage, death, or paralysis due to impact to the head versus
showering?

Yes, almost definitely.

On Mar 16, 4:25 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
 If your argument works equally well if we substitute being a
 pedestrian or taking a shower for cycling, then you might want to
 reconsider your logic.



 On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 12:55 PM, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've searched extensively as well and cannot find anything
  scientifically convincing. However, here are a couple of very simple
  questions which may be helpful:

  1) Do helmets reduce the extent of head or neck injuries incurred by
  impact to the head?
  2) Does cycling increase the likelihood of impact to the head, whether
  or not a helmet is in use?

  If you have a suspicion that the answer to each of these questions is
  Yes, you should probably wear a helmet.

  Travis Breitenbach

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 My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[Travis]

Ann,

Unfortunately evidence like that is unquantifiable, so we'll never see
it. It's impossible to say for sure how bad an injury could have
been. They only way to prove it to yourself is to have a close call
in which your helmet gets destroyed but you walk away fine. This
happened to me and turned me from an occasional helmet wearer into a
dedicated helmet wearer. It's hard to say what might have happened to
me if I hadn't been wearing a helmet, but having had multiple
concussions in the past I can sort of gauge impact severity. I believe
I avoided at least a moderate concussion, if not a skull fracture. If
I hadn't been wearing a helmet, I'm sure I would have probably lived
but would not have continued riding...

Of course, I live in NYC which is clearly a dangerous and
unpredictable place to ride. I get in an accident every once in a
while, and only once has my helmet come in handy. However, I accept
the inevitability that my head will make contact with the ground once
every decade or two and I don't want it to end my riding career. I
know several stupid bike messengers who have gotten concussions (and
have continued to ride without helmets because they are so badass
and risk is part of their glorified lifestyle), and I know of one
person with permanent brain damage. My guess is these injuries
wouldn't have been as severe had these fella's been wearing helmets,
but of course I can't prove it. If you ride in the country you're less
likely to get in an accident, however those accidents you do get in
are likely to be at high speeds - so maybe you'll just die outright
either way. At moderate speeds I feel helmets shine.

Anyway, it's pointless to discuss. I know no-one will be swayed since
only impossible facts will convince you. I truly hope you are never
proven wrong by personal experience.

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[Travis]

Also, while out riding today. I was passed by a carload of four
teenage boys. As they passed, one reached way out of the window,
grabbed my shirt at the shoulder and tried to yank me to the ground.
It didn't work (though I ended up in a confrontation with all of them
after giving them the fingers), but it's the sort of ridiculous random
danger which makes cycling exciting and makes me put my helmet on.
This was at city speeds, so the helmet might have come in handy. I've
had similar things happen with drivers in the country, but at much
higher speeds.

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[RBW] Re: Best Look or Look-clone pedals?

[Travis]

'Look' (yuck yuck) into the Ritchey WCS Echelon Road pedals. I have a
pair and have been quite happy with them. They are compatible with
standard Look Keo cleats, but are lighter than most Look brand pedals
(and all the Shimano pedals), yet are made out of aluminum and have
pretty decent bearings. I have them on my road racing bike, but I
wouldn't hesitate to take them touring (along with spare cleats of
course), they seem that durable.

Travis

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[RBW] Re: Electra Ticino Bottle Cage

[Travis]

Thanks for posting! I love the look of the Nitto's but can't bring
myself to spend that kind of money on a cage. However, you mention in
your review that Electra specifies a limit of 21oz bottles... And that
makes me worry. I can see that with the construction of these cages
(both Nitto and Electra's version) the tension used to hold a bottle
is going to put stress on those brazed/welded spots at the top of the
cage. Those are the spots that would eventually see breakage.

Travis

On Jan 7, 8:29 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 Some thoughts on this alternative to Nitto's R cage and a link to detailed 
 photos are on my 
 blog:http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2011/01/stuff-were-using-electra-tic...

 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: Fender mounted battery powered taillight suggestions?

[Travis]

Same issue here. I bought a Radbot 1000 hoping I could make it work
with a fender, but I haven't found an elegant solution so far. You
need access to a screw at the back of the light to change the
batteries - whereas on fender mounted models the screw is on the
front.

Patrick: when you say But quite bright nonetheless! which light are
you referring to? Are you saying the PDW fenderbot is decently bright?
Or the PDW Radbot 1000?

Thanks,
Travis

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[RBW] Re: Fender mounted battery powered taillight suggestions?

[Travis]

Cool, KP! But I assume you need to remove the rear wheel to remove the
batteries?

I was thinking of mounting the clip on the back of the Radbot 1000
sideways and then somehow installing the QR mount on the fender.
Though, now that I'm looking at it, I'm not sure of I can remove and
reorient the clip without breaking it...

On Jan 8, 10:41 am, KP kpmulc...@gmail.com wrote:
 I mounted the Radbot 1000 on my fender. First I popped off the clip
 and sanded down the back of the light to more closely match the curve
 of the fender. Then I used a longer screw to attach the fender to the
 light back. The same screw attaches the reflector to the back.
 I think the light is located in the best possible spot for the bike.
 It's not perfect, but this isn't a show bike by any means.

 I'm not doing a good job of describing it, so posted a few pictures
 here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/39056...@n08/sets/72157625775993554/

 Kevin Mulcahy
 Chicago, IL

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[RBW] New Lauterwasser handlebars from Soma

[Travis]

Pretty cool:
http://somafab.blogspot.com/2010/12/lauterwasser-handlebars-launched.html

I've noticed these bars on vintage/antique bikes and have always
thought they looked great and might be highly functional for touring
and city use. Though, I wish they had published full specs. It's hard
to consider them for serious use without knowing about the reach, etc..

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

[Travis]

I own both Pitlock and VO skewers. There is no comparison of course. I
don't know why, but the VO skewers have sort of a knurled surface on
the outside, so it looks like they could be opened with a good set of
pliers. Also, keys for those hex-pin bolts can be had at most hardware
stores. I'd say the VO skewer provides just a tad more security than
an allen bolt skewer. I use mine on a wheel which I wouldn't really
mind replacing because it's nearing the end of it's useful life
anyway.

The Pitlock design is really much further advanced than any other
locking skewers out there. I see two ways to defeat it, but they
require quite a bit of ingenuity. I live in NYC and use them on a
decent wheelset. I have enough faith in them that I lock only my frame
which is tremendously freeing. I carry one of the Pit keys on a large
key ring with my keys and this gives me just enough torque to adjust
them if needed. Also, I use them on a bike with horizontal drop-outs
even though you're not supposed to. It's been holding up fine. Of
course, this bike has a freewheel - I would not try this with a SS/
fixed set-up.

Travis

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[RBW] Re: Drilled Out Chain Ring (Would you ride it?)

[Travis]

+1. Ride it, but not in a single/track set-up

On Jan 4, 3:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Drillium! The solar system's lightest element!

 I'd not worry about it; if it breaks it won't fail catastrophically, a
 la crabon fibre, in mid-intersection; instead it will gradually,
 slowly, gently let you down. But you can only ride it in an old, wool
 jersey with front button pockets.

 I have an old Stronglight 49D ring that looks the same, but mine is
 prolly factory drilled.



 On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 10:17 AM, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi all,

  In the tradition of poking the collective knowledge of the group, i
  would like opinions on whether you would ride this chain ring.  I
  bought this superbe pro crankset for my new Hillborne build and wasn't
  too concerned about the drilled out ring since i have a few spare big
  rings in the parts bin.  Of course i ignored/forgot the fact that this
  big ring was a campy ring, so i was surprised to find my 130bcd rings
  would not fit :)

  From measuring this looks like the old campy 144bcd standard.  The
  drilling is amateur, so ride it or chuck the ring?  I figure worst
  case i could use it a single ring track crank...

 http://flic.kr/p/97uR8G

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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: zipties in snow / was: Seattle Snow Commute

[Travis]

Cool, I'm going to try that!

On Dec 28, 1:14 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 Forgive me for digging up this old thread, but I just stumbled across
 this article on Gizmodo, and it feels like I should have read it here
 at RBW, but searching on snow, Seattle, zip ties (even re-read this
 threadhttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch/browse_thread/thread/...),
 and I can't find it here yet.

 http://www.dutchbikeco.com/_blog/Dutch_Bike_Co_Weblog/post/Seattle_Sn...

 Really, I just can't find it here on RBW-OB, it seems like it should
 be... I thought I'd read something about ice biking, snowpocalypse,
 etc., here recently (maybe it was over on BL instead)

 Anywho, thought it was an interesting use of zipties for a bike

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Vindicated Once Again

[Travis]

Zip-ties are the best option for us weight weenies, haha.

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[RBW] Re: Riding posture - advice appreciated

[Travis]

I have a similar problem and it's a tricky one, especially with Brooks
saddles and Riv style riding. I find the large amount of saddle set-
back most people use while doing this sort of riding, and which the
Brooks B17 design sort of encourages, is a major cause of this bent
back posture. For me, and I think both of us, it can be uncomfortable
to roll my hips forward in a way which allows me to have a flatter
back - especially on my Brooks. Using a high degree of saddle set-back
also forces you to either roll your hips more, or ride with a crook in
your back. I think you should try moving your saddle forward a bit
(and correspondingly higher), and see if things improve.

Further, I think a moderately rounded back is probably fine, but a
seriously crooked back is probably not a good thing. I've worked on
this and settled for moderately rounded. May I ask, do you a have a
sway back when standing normally? That is the case with me.

On Dec 20, 9:41 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:
 After looking at some photos taken by Early Grey of me riding his Sam
 with drop bars (example 
 here:)http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/5260456237/

 I noticed that I am particularly bent in the lower back. Well, no
 surprise really, I've noticed this elsewhere in my life but cycling on
 drop bars makes it really pronounced. What are the implications of
 this crooked posture? How would one go about straightening the spine
 during cycling or anything else?

 On today's ride on my bike (Sam w moustache bars set about level with
 saddle height) I made an effort to keep my back straight and tilt the
 pelvis more. Not easy, and I had a mild back ache 30 minutes into the
 ride. What does that mean?

 On another note, on my way back down the mountain I had an absolute
 blast on the Sam. Smooth, fast and winding road on Marathon Extremes
 and tektro cantilevers - wow. To me, the way the Sam feels on fast
 descents is the highlight of this all-round fantastic bike. (the way
 downhills can be a highlight of the overall cycling experience, unless
 you're riding rough pavement on a racing frame with 23 mm slicks at
 100 psi) The extremes probably slowed down overall speed a little but
 still rode very smooth and comfortable. Not buzzy at all.

 Any advice / help with improving my posture much appreciated!

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[RBW] Re: Riding posture - advice appreciated

[Travis]

I'm not sure why people think more set-back is going to give a flatter
back. Increasing the set-back INCREASES bending at the hips. The
reason we long distance/comfort type riders slam our saddles back is
because it shifts weight off of the hands and not because it's more
efficient or better for our lower body mechanics. Look at photo's of
time-trialists, their saddle position puts their knees forward of
their pedals which gives them a more efficient pedal stroke and allows
them to get lower and more aero without being bent over double. The TT
position also places too much weight on the hands and crotch, and is
less stable steering wise - the reasons we avoid it. However,
understanding all this can allow us to find a middle ground which
suits us best.

Also, I say that Brooks saddles (the B17 and wider) encourage more set-
back, because that extra width interferes with pedal stroke if the
saddle position is much further forward. It may sound like blasphemy,
but we are too often allowing our wide comfy saddles to determine
unrelated aspects of body mechanics simply because they do not allow
us to comfortably experiment with a wider range of saddle positions.
Wow, I think I just talked myself into trying a narrower Brooks!


On Dec 20, 9:41 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:000
 After looking at some photos taken by Early Grey of me riding his Sam
 with drop bars (example 
 here:)http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/5260456237/

 I noticed that I am particularly bent in the lower back. Well, no
 surprise really, I've noticed this elsewhere in my life but cycling on
 drop bars makes it really pronounced. What are the implications of
 this crooked posture? How would one go about straightening the spine
 during cycling or anything else?

 On today's ride on my bike (Sam w moustache bars set about level with
 saddle height) I made an effort to keep my back straight and tilt the
 pelvis more. Not easy, and I had a mild back ache 30 minutes into the
 ride. What does that mean?

 On another note, on my way back down the mountain I had an absolute
 blast on the Sam. Smooth, fast and winding road on Marathon Extremes
 and tektro cantilevers - wow. To me, the way the Sam feels on fast
 descents is the highlight of this all-round fantastic bike. (the way
 downhills can be a highlight of the overall cycling experience, unless
 you're riding rough pavement on a racing frame with 23 mm slicks at
 100 psi) The extremes probably slowed down overall speed a little but
 still rode very smooth and comfortable. Not buzzy at all.

 Any advice / help with improving my posture much appreciated!

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[RBW] Re: Any VO drop bar guinea pigs yet?

[Travis]

Nobody? Maybe I'll have to take the plunge myself.

On Dec 10, 12:35 pm, Pete pedalling.p...@gmail.com wrote:
 Me too, a review would be fab!

 On 10 Dec, 18:18, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote:

  They look pretty interesting. The ramp seems to be completely level -
  outdoing even the Noodle. The drops are also level, which I think will
  look nicer but be slightly less comfortable than an angled drop.

 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/handlebars/grand-cr...

  -Travis

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Lights Pondering

[Travis]

I have a friend who uses a little knog lights on his hubs. If you were
okay with that method, you could try it with the Blackburn Flea, which
is tiny but rechargeable. Otherwise, hose little watch batteries are
just awful, they're expensive and don't last very long.

That being said, I think spoke lights are fun, but my feeling is that
they aren't bright enough to be seen during the day, and are less
bright than reflectors after dark. What I really like are Schwalbe
tires with the reflective sidewalls - they are surprisingly bright and
offer a large reflective surface area.

Travis

On Dec 12, 10:55 am, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:
 On my commute for dark times of the year I want to be REAL visible.

 My take is that making oneself visible among many car lights, various  
 street lights, and
 commercial signage, one's bike can't be over lit.

 I have 2 bright front LED lights, a Dinotte rear light and accompany  
 the Dinotte with two planet bike blinkys.
 I'm using the Riv wheel reflectors, Riv ankle reflectors, and a  
 reflective vest. I have an eos led on my helmet
 (mainly for getting the attention of cars at intersections). I'm going  
 for the 'It Came From OuterSpace' look
 and it seems to work.

 Riding home on Friday I met a bicycler with Niteiz Spokelits on his  
 front wheel.
 When he was moving his bike  was quite visible from the side.
 Looking on the Google I see that these use CR2016 batteries so that  
 isn't such a good thing.
 As lights go they aren't too dear ~ USD $ 8.

 Anyone using Spokelits?

 I'm also intrigued by Monkey Lights but my lighting compulsion isn't  
 so strong (yet) that I'm going to
 spend ~ USD $ 60. They do look like fun but a bit of a kludge.

 Light em up,
 JimD

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[RBW] Any VO drop bar guinea pigs yet?

[Travis]

They look pretty interesting. The ramp seems to be completely level -
outdoing even the Noodle. The drops are also level, which I think will
look nicer but be slightly less comfortable than an angled drop.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/handlebars/grand-cru-course-handlebar-classic-round-bend.html

-Travis

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[RBW] Re: Fwd: 12-5-2010 - a set on Flickr

[Travis]

Looks like a nice ride. I relish day like that now that I'm fully
fendered. Thanks for sharing.

On Dec 5, 4:12 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 Today's Quickbeam ride:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157625410743927/with...

 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: Wald Basket with Drop Bars

[Travis]

Haha. Thanks for the input.

Maybe a 46cm Noodle would be alright for me. I should probably be
using a 44cm anyway, and Grant suggests going wide with the
Noodles...though I may need a shorter stem!

Does anyone have experience using 44cm Noodles with the medium Wald
basket?

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[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2

[Travis]

Yeah, stop trying to scare her. It's very unlikely to fail and if it
does it'll probably just make a creaking sound - it's not like a brake
or stem failure, sheesh.

On Dec 1, 1:14 am, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 more likely to get run over by a bus than having that fail.

 Kelly



  I hope that when it fails it fails at a convenient time and not when
  your face, teeth, naughty bits, or life could be in jeopardy. Me, I'd
  take the loss and replace it.

  Cheers!
  cm

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[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2

[Travis]

From the way it is filed, I also wouldn't be afraid of installing it
and using it as is. The big concern for me would be how badly it
affects your chain line, if it does at all. If it looks alright, I
would ride it for a few days, tighten it up a second time, and go with
it. Don't take it touring or camping for a while, just ride it locally
- I don't think it would fail catastrophically, just loosen slightly
at worst, so you'll still be able to get home - and I bet you'll
forget about it after a while and feel confident enough to take it on
long trips.

Cranksets are expensive and I'm sure this has been an upsetting
experience, so do yourself a favor and ride it for a while before
plunking that extra money down on a replacement. Also, the square
taper system is simple and overbuilt - until recently it was standard
practice for people to force older TA cranksets onto modern bottom
brackets with the wrong taper and I know at least one person who
toured with his distorted TA crankset for years and even moved it to
different bikes!

Best of luck!

On Nov 29, 3:39 pm, lauren laurench...@gmail.com wrote:
 This spring I bought two used Sugino XD2 triples advertised on this
 list to put on a Hunqapillar and a Rawland Drakkar i knew we'd be
 getting in the fall. I'm still waiting on the Hunqapillar, but I took
 out the crankset to build up the Drakkar that arrived last weekend to
 find that it had been filed down on the inside. My fault, for not
 asking for photos beforehand, I suppose, but I'm wondering if it's
 safe to use. I contacted the seller and he said he didn't know it had
 been filed down.

 Photos 
 here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/otterbean/sets/72157625369398923/with/52...

 Soliciting opinions: Is it okay to use or should we get another?

 Comparing it to my other, perfectly intact XD2, it looks like about
 3-4 mm has been filed off the inside and a little bit into the square
 hole has been filed away as well meaning that a lot less surface area
 is contacting the surface area than would usually do so (that's my
 guess at least). We put it on and it seems to fit snug for riding
 around town, but I can't decide whether it would hold up to harder
 riding (the rider is ~185 lbs).

 I know we should just buy another one, but we're already scraping the
 bottom of the barrel to build these bikes up so if I can safely make
 use of my $80 spent then all the better.

 Any insight/ideas much appreciated.

 Thanks,
 Lauren

 ps. If anyone has a triple right XD2 175 mm crank arm they'd like to
 sell let me know.

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[RBW] Re: Non Brooks Saddle recommendations please.

[Travis]

The most comfortable non-Brooks (style saddle) I own is a Specialized
Romin. It's one of the few cut-out saddles I've tried which actually
seem to succeed in relieving pressure. Also, the Romin comes in
various widths, and if you go to a Specialized dealer you can ask to
be measured on the ass-o-meter to determine which width you need. I
got mine new on ebay for $70-something.

I can ride my Brooks without padded bib-shorts (once they are broken
in, it's better that way as I'm sure you know), but I don't ride
synthetic saddles with-out. They're really meant to be used in
conjunction with padded shorts. They ones that are not have way too
much cushion and cause other problems. That being said, my Romin
saddle with shorts is actually more comfortable than my Brooks with or
with-out them - I bet you can accustom an un-padded butt to feel the
same. I should mention, I use this saddle on my race bike, which has a
very aggressive saddle to handlebar drop - and being a racing saddle
that is what it is designed for. Maybe, you'll hate it in an upright
position, but they are may be some other Specialized saddles which
would work better, but still come in reasonable widths.

Another thought, I feel that many people go way overboard with the
uptilted angle on their Brooks. A one degree angle is enough to keep
you from sliding forward, much more is counter productive.

On Nov 22, 1:42 pm, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 Another suggestion for WTB saddles.  I just put a Speed V (their
 cheapest saddle) from a town bike i sold on my road bike and
 discovered that it's quite comfortable for long rides.  No pressure on
 the nether regions.

 I've never ridden a Brooks for anything more than a hundred yards or
 so I can't compare.

 On Nov 22, 7:02 am, JGS jonat...@jonfipro.com wrote:

  Hey there,

  I've been riding w/ Brooks saddle for several years and I've come to
  worry that I'm putting too much pressure on my softer parts.  I've try
  adjustments but I'd love to know if anyone has a recommendation for a
  simple saddle w/ a slot to protect me that might be great and look
  good w/ my Atlantis.

  Thanks so much!

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[RBW] Re: Question about types of platform pedals

[Travis]

+1 on Wellgo MG-1's. They are sort of the go to, best value, lightish
bmx/mtb pedal. I just got a pair a couple of days ago.

My concerns were similar to the OP's. The MG-1's are plenty grippy,
but you could file down or remove extra grip pegs if you get hot
spots, without permanently altering the pedal.

As far as cornering clearance goes, you may not want to use these on a
fixed gear bike, but I haven't had any problems with my freewheel bike
- and I should mention the reason I went to platforms and then wider
platforms was because my frame has such a low bottom bracket that
using clips and straps was intolerable in city traffic (terrible
grinding on every first stroke after starting from a stop) - I built
the frame myself and did not anticipate this. Anyway, even though
you'd think cornering clearance would be a big problem for me, it is
not. I also own a modern racing bike with which I love to pedal
through tight turns and push my luck, but on my comfy steel ride I
have no problem coasting through sharp turns.

I think the main reason BMX style pedals are not considered more often
is because they just don't look as elegant on our bikes as we'd like -
but hey, find some big, silver platforms that look halfway decent and
I bet you're distaste will melt away with the comfort and ease of use.

Best,
Travis in NYC

On Nov 14, 8:34 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Right now, my winter bike has the MKS sneaker pedals which work, but
 will probably switch to one of the BMX pedals sitting around for
 better grip with winter boots.  The RMX can get slippery in wet/snowy
 conditions.  However, do like the reflectors for riding after dark.

 Agree with George, BMX pedals can be all over the board.  Happen to
 know that Jim Thill has recently built a bike with Tioga Spider pedals
 that look promising for weight and cornering clearance.

 BTW, the Wellgo pedals look like the old Shimano MX pedals.  One of
 the early great mountain bike pedals.  They are available in a modern
 version, although the price is not cheap.

 Now, a modern version of the old Suntour Beartrap would be about
 perfect.  Cartridge bearing, very grippy surface.  Then again, my wife
 has scars on her leg from an ill-timed pedal slip.  So maybe not the
 best? (At least they were safer than the Cook Bros.  Those were
 sharp.  Literally.)

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Nov 14, 6:53 pm, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote:

  I like BMX pedals, too, and have converted all of my bikes over to 'em
  - mainly because of foot pain issues, though, associated with cleated
  shoes.  But as far as quality is concerned (and maybe Jim over at
  Hiawatha can jump in here to confirm) BMX pedals are all across the
  board.  Cheaper ones do have cheap and rougher feeling bearings.  But
  you can pay over a hundred dollars for some that are very light
  weight, made from alloy, with much more refined bearings - and with
  smaller, less protruding pins, too.

  On Nov 14, 11:52 am, RonaTD teddur...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Because a lot of Riv discussion seems to focus on pedaling free and
finding the perfect pedal for doing so, is there some reason BMX-style
pedals aren't more frequently considered?

   The biggest issues I think people have with BMX pedals are weight and
   cornering clearance. Obviously, the wider the pedal, the less the
   cornering clearance. Grant tries to address that with the shape of the
   GripKing, but inevitably a pedal with sufficient corner clearance
   will feel narrow to someone who's ridden on something wider.

   The right pedal width depends very much on the shoes you are
   wearing. For example, I have some Tioga pedals that are fairly narrow
   (and lovely light). They work great with my Allen Edmonds Mitchell
   business casual shoes, pretty well with my Salomon trail runners, but
   no so great with Tevas. Teva sandals tend to have a very wide forefoot
   that requires you to move your feet farther away from the crank arm,
   so they require a pretty wide pedal.

   An issue I have with MKS pedals in general is that the bearing bulges
   are too prominent and ruin the shoe-pedal interface. The lovely Sidi
   touring shoes I have, for example, are useless on MKS touring pedals.
   The RMX sneaker pedals are a notable exception and are fabulous with
   Tevas.

   Bottom line for me is that you need to consider both the shoe and the
   pedal together. Wider pedals will work with a broader range of shoes,
   but at the cost of corner clearance and weight. This being the RBW
   list, those might not be such big issues for you. However, if you ride
   a fixed gear, corner clearance should be a concern.

   td- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Bar-end Cable Routing?

[Travis]

I prefer this method as well - it's cleaner and it shifts fine. It
does require extra cable though. I use inner cable meant for a tandem
to reach my rear derailleur.

It's fine to have the cables exit your bar top at the same place.
People who use Campy or Sram brake/shift levers do this all the time.
I like mine to run along the bottom fronts of the bar tops (about 4
o'clock), it feels nice in the hand.

Also, I think it looks much cleaner and has less friction if you route
your front derailleur cable across the head tube to the right side
down tube cable boss, and your RD cable to the left side DT cable
boss, and then cross the bare cable back over underneath the DT on
their way to the bottom bracket. So essentially you follow the natural
curve of the cable housing across to the wrong side of the bike then
compensate by making the bare cable cross over underneath. It sounds
complicated, but this way you avoid excess dramatic cable swoops
trying to get your right shifter cable back over to the right side
down tube cable braze on, and so on. I hope that makes sense. You'll
see right away when you try to route the cable on the bike.

On Oct 25, 10:30 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 same here... tandem cables and such. works great. I also like to route
 cable on front of bar as it gives a flatter platform on top which I
 find more comfortable.

 ~Mike~

 On Oct 25, 6:29 am, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:

  I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the flying whiskers look
  of the cables that come off the drops.

  One thing to keep in mind, depending on your circumstances, is how
  they route to the down tube stops. Sometimes the transition directly
  to the stop can be tight.

  On Oct 25, 1:40 am, Kevin Turinsky kjturin...@mac.com wrote:

   I'm considering rerouting my derailleur cables from my bar-end
   shifters, under the tape, all the way up the bars, just like my brake
   cables. The reason I'm thinking of doing this is because then the
   cables and my Berthoud bag will no longer have to quarrel.

   Anyone already done this? Any tips? Any hobgoblins to look out for?
   Photos?

   Thanks.

   Kevin Turinsky
   RUSA RBA - Alaska
   alaskarandonneurs.org
   The Big Wild Ride - Alaska's 1200K- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Bar-end Cable Routing?

[Travis]

I'm glad I could help, Peter.

I was worried about the friction where the bare cables cross myself,
but I've had one bike built like that for a couple of years and
haven't noticed any wear whatsoever.

For cables I used a Jagwire kit, which supplies plenty of housing
length. I bought a separate (tandem) length of cable to reach the RD,
and used the RD cable included in the kit to reach the FD.

On Oct 25, 12:14 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Philip Williamson

 philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:
  Weren't derailer cables always routed to the bar, before Rivendell
  pioneered the new way?

 'the new way'?

 No.

 shifter cables came from the shifters (either downtube, barend,
 thumbies or brifters) and made an arch with no sharp transitions or
 corners to eventually get to the downtube stops or under the bottom
 bracket.

 rivendell didn't pioneer bar end shifters..

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: Derailleur Cabling

[Travis]

Hm, I think drain holes are sometimes worth plugging - on a case by
case basis. If you aren't using fenders and that drainage hole is the
only reasonable access point for crud and water, it can't hurt to fill
it. If you do have full fenders and a mud flap, that drainage hole
will only let things out. I have one bike which is otherwise well
sealed, but fender-less, and the BB drainage hole was allowing road
crud spit off the front wheel into my BB. I sealed the hole with bees
wax and the BB has remained clean ever since.

Also, most drainage holes on frames and racks are actually
ventilation holes drilled by the framebuilder to release gases during
brazing or welding. Many builders don't bother to fill them with brass
afterward. They aren't necessarily helping you out any when the frame
is complete. Ventilation holes in forks and seat stays are worth
filling with bees wax, in my opinion. Bottom bracket drainage holes,
on the other hand, are placed with drainage in mind - but like I said
above, they may or may not be useful.

Travis

On Oct 24, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 thanks folks, for setting me straight on the un-tapped resource of a drain 
 hole.

 andrew

 On Oct 23, 2010, at 9:15 PM, doug peterson wrote:

  The untapped hole is a drain hole; don't plug it.  I never took the BB
  out for 6 years  there was not crud up there when I did.

  I drilled a separate hole near the drain for the cable guide bracket.

  dougP

  On Oct 23, 4:28 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've been wondering the same thing, in preparation of building up a 
  Romulus.

  good to know i can just use the metal guides, but there is an (untapped) 
  hole for tapping and mounting a pastic guide, i assume.  

  i'm concerned about getting crud up in the bb shell if i don't plug it..  
  or maybe this isn't really an issue?

  best,
  andrew

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[RBW] Re: Derailleur Cabling

[Travis]

It's probably alright, but I was worried about bare cable on paint
friction as well. I used a cocktail/coffee stir straw to protect my
paint down there. It was a pain to shove in there, but now it won't be
going anywhere on it's own.

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

[Travis]

Speaking as someone with somewhat troublesome knees, I cannot stand
having my saddle height any lower than even 1-2 cm below my highest
tolerable position. If I'm not getting a full extension with my quad I
have a sensation of holding my breath in my knees. Also, your legs are
strongest at the top of your extension.

The real difference between TT, racing, and touring saddle positions
is fore-to-aft. Having your saddle further forward is more efficient
but less comfortable. When sliding your saddle back for comfort you
must also lose some height to reproduce the same distance from saddle
top to pedal. That triathlete type may not know the difference and was
just assuming all saddle positions should be equal. Also, increases in
flexibility allow an increase in saddle height.

On Sep 27, 10:43 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Very impressed with the effort some of you put into finding optimal
 seat height.

 I eyeball it when setting up the bike then make sure I have the
 appropriate seat post adjusting tool with me the first few rides
 (usually have this in any event - cepting the bike with the Pitlock
 binder.)

 On Sep 27, 9:12 am, sjauch sja...@gmail.com wrote:

  Saddle height is very person specific. I went with Riv method of PBH
  minus 10 for a saddle height of 72cm. Earlier this year I developed
  knee pain that prevented me from riding for 2 months. I went to a
  fitter who raised my saddle by 1.5cm and it has made a world of
  difference. This was in addition to adjusting the cleats on my shoes.

  It can't hurt to play around. The fitter had my bike hooked up to some
  fancy trainer that measured watt output and noticed an increase with
  the changed made. It was a pretty interesting experience.

  On Sep 27, 5:55 am, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:

   Another thing is that triathletes usually have their saddles placed 
   farther
   forward and higher up than do road riders - different strokes for 
   different
   sports!  His advice might not be right for you.

   On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:53 AM, Ken Freeman 
   kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote:

I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the 
saddle
to this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal 
to
the top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat 
tube.
I do this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then 
I
ride-test it.

Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is 
about
2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I 
should
go into detail.

The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to 
measure
and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
position.

The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can 
without
causing your hips to rock painfully.

Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find 
out,
but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's 
reasonable to
see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without 
adding
negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings 
negative
effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to 
go
back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as 
going
too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go 
back to
where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  
Think
of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried 
wrenches to
set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
pedaled?

The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
several mm. lower.

On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
 (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
 formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
 recently and ended up lowering my saddles 

[RBW] WTB: Sackville SaddleSack-Medium (Grey)

[Travis]

If anyone has one in decent condition I'd be interested. A new
SaddleSack is a bit out of my price range. I'd prefer Grid Grey to
match my bike and other Sackville baggage.

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