Re: [RBW] Anyone using an Appaloosa as a mostly-road bike?

2023-06-19 Thread hugh flynn
I'm doing exactly that.

While I originally purchased my 2018 Appaloosa as a rough-stuff touring
bike, it's really become my primary road bike (without racks) as well as my
touring bike (with racks). I have it set up as a standard road bike with
Noodle drops (and a relatively short stem given the length of the top
tube). It's definitely heavier than my dedicated road bike (1999 Heron
Road), but I can't honestly say that it rides like a heavier bike. My time
over the same routes isn't at all different whether I take the Appaloosa or
the road bike. If I had to give up my road bike, I think I could do so
pretty easily now.

On Sun, Jun 18, 2023 at 10:36 AM reynoldslugs  wrote:

> Hi all, can’t remember the last time I posted.   Long-time Rivendell
> rider, since 1998 or so; my current stable includes Atlantis, Legolas,
> Custom, Rambouillet, Heron Road, maybe one or two others (I gave my
> Quickbeam to a friend when my knees got to creaky for fixed gear riding).
>
> My current curiosity/notion/interest is whether I should add an Appaloosa
> to the flock.  If any of you ride one as a mostly-road, perhaps drop-bar
> bike, I would be grateful for your impressions, feedback.
>
> I do a fair amount of road + steep gravel rides - - if you are familiar
> with Sonoma County, that means Coleman Valley + Willow Creek, and Sonoma
> Mountain Road + Bald Mountain.  I’m interested in a bike that does well on
> pavement and rides well on steep, rutted, dirt and gravel roads.
>
> Grateful for any opinions and feedback, thanks.
>
> Max Beach
> Santa Rosa CA
>
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Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] Sam, almost fully dressed

2020-10-20 Thread hugh flynn
Now that's a well dressed bike!

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 2:10 PM Joel S  wrote:

> I have about finished for now, the saddle is thanks to Ted Fay, not sure
> on it yet, will try my champion special again, but not bad and a big things
> as it was a gift. Another thanks to Jon Dukeman for nudging me just enough
> for me to get the front donut bag which is perfect to carry one or two
> small cameras.
>
> The rear bag is my new Acorn Small, I also got a large so I could see
> which I like best, I think with the Donut bag that small is fine, a bit
> bigger than the Rivendell Kevin bag I have been using. The large one is
> bigger than the banana bag so I will see how I will like the size. The
> workmanship and materials are spectacular.
>
> The bar tape has a third layer around the brake levers due to the diacompe
> clamp hitting my hand, not sure how I will resolve this, I may leave it and
> I may rewrap ,I have plenty of time to decide.
>
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Re: [RBW] Post Ur Riv

2020-10-15 Thread hugh flynn
Wow!

That's a nice ride sir.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:26 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Not a Rivendell, but very definitely a son of Rivendell: The new Chauncey
> Matthews Road Bike for Road* newly shod with Rene Herse Naches Pass tires
> (in place of the default Elk Passes).
>
> Since the local dirt here is too sandy for the ~40 mm Naches Pass tires,
> I'm not sure I'll keep them on. The Elk Passes make the bike more nimble
> and agile, the NPs at ~40/35 make the ride pleasantly cushioned (tho' the
> EPs, 29 mm at ~55/50 or lower are not bad either).
>
> * So named because I also have an earlier Road Bike for Dirt.
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

2020-06-17 Thread hugh flynn
All interfaces are suspect in this scenario and the phantom click can be
tough to isolate.

As noted above grease in the quill is step 1.

If that doesn't do it, a light coat of oil on the sleeve should be tried.

If that doesn't do it, loosen the stem clamp (so there's no pressure on the
sleeve), put some light oil around the junction between the sleeve and the
bar, and lay the bike on one side so the oil can seep between the sleeve
and the bar. Let it sit for a few hours then flip the bike on the other
side and repeat. Then wipe up any excess, tighten things back up and repeat.

If that doesn't do it... well, that's all I have :-)

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Jun 17, 2020 at 9:24 AM Mark Roland 
wrote:

> The stem she linked to is 25.4, and she previously had chromo Boscos in
> there with no noise.
>
> On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>>
>> Leah
>>
>> All Bosco bars (CrMo or Al) are 25.4mm in the clamp area.  Is the Nitto
>> Stem a 25.4mm or 26.0mm diameter clamp?
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rene Herse Tires with tubes

2020-06-15 Thread hugh flynn
I currently have 6 sets of Rene Herse/Compass tires in use in extralight
and standard casing on 26", 650B, and 700c wheels and I have yet to
actually run any tubeless.  I do have several sets of tubeless wheels on
hand but I've just been too lazy and gunk averse to bother trying with
tubeless. I'll likely set up my son's gravel bike tubeless with a set of
switchback hill (650b x 48mm) at some point this summer though.

As others have noted...flats are a roll of the dice situation. What I can
offer is that I find no appreciable difference between Rene Herse tires and
anything else I've run in the past with regard to flat frequency (not much
- but now that I've said it out loud I'm doomed).

I am not easy on these tires by any means, and I've been massively
impressed by how they hold up. I have a set of Extralight Snoqualmie
(700x44) tires that have been on my Appaloosa for the last two years that
have held up great (and I ride that thing EVERYWHERE). My first set of
Compass tires (Extralight Barlow Pass/700 x 38) was purchased 5 years ago,
have seen me through multiple backwoods tours on a loaded LHT, and are
currently doing road duty on my fixed gear cross-check. I'm mostly moving
to standard casing when buying new tires now (just to have a little more
rubber on the tires), but my experience with the extralights has certainly
been surprising.

So, as with all things tire-related, your mileage may vary, but I've sure
been thrilled by the ride and durability of my Rene Herse tires
with tubes.

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 10:22 AM Dean Henderson  wrote:

> I’ve been running Loup Loup Pass (650B x 38) extra light casing tires with
> tubes on my Homer Hilsen. Over 1000 miles on a combination of paved &
> gravel roads with no problems.
>
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Re: [RBW] I really need some help, I do not maintain my bikes myself and my old guy is no longer working. Bleriot Content

2020-06-10 Thread hugh flynn
Hey Joel!

I would give Parker at Laughing Dog in Amherst a call. He'll be able to
help diagnose the problem.

Hugh

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 4:46 PM Joel Stern  wrote:

> Bleriot Tune Up
>
>
> I had the Bleriot that had not been ridden in 10 years except for 3 rides
> last week to the bike shop, a local shop, all kids, never used this shop
> before. I was told when I brought it in the rear derailleur was bent, but I
> asked them to check the hanger as advised by Rivendell.
>
>
> The bike had been having a rough not smooth feeling when pedaling in many
> gears, almost all. I thought the rear wheel was out of true, etc.
>
>
> So I pick the bike up today and I was told it is great, rear Derailleur
> and hanger are fine. So I take it for a ride and the same rough feeling
> after shifting. They took one link out of the chain and said that it was
> too loose but nothing really changed.
>
> When I came back and talked to them I had a few things to ask them
>
>
>1. The rear brake was rubbing on the rim, I was told it was because of
>my rack and the rack had to come off, when I got home I loosened the quick
>release on the wheel and moved the rim over and it is fine now as far as
>the brake is not rubbing. I was very surprised this your kid who was not
>low level, not a wrench but he should have known.
>
>
> 2. For the rough pedaling feeling I was told the following and I will put
> in quotes as best as I can remember. Now I have a TA Zephyr crank, they
> said I need a whole new drive train, I told them there was no way I was not
> going to use the TA, and that I need a  new FW (I have 2 at home
> that look as new or as close as possible), and I need a new chain (this one
> I buy more than the first two)
>
>
> So here is what I was told.  “the chain needs to be replaced and the
> cassette (he did not know it was a FW) needs replacing and the crank needs
> to be replaced as it is worn”. “We know this because of this little tool we
> have that measure then chain” Maybe it is but the bike was used for 2 or so
> years, and it was not my main bike as my Custom was before the car accident
> the sidelined riding for me. It sat for 10 years with a bit of use on
> rollers with a fork mount, very little use due to my back and knees. So I
> raided my parts bin when I got home.
>
>
> I found my TA BB tool (not sure if they will need that (not this shop but
> another that I will now have to hunt for but I can do that).
>
>
> Here are all of the parts I found
>
>
> 2 13x26 FW’s in almost if not new condition.
>
>
> I use  the TA crank w/ 48/38/24
>
>
> Now I did find one new TA 38 in the basement, all the rest are no brand
>
>
> If anyone has any TA 110 front rings please let me know
>
>
> I found d 38, 36, 28, 26, 24
>
>
> I did not find a 48.
>
>
> OK I need advise on what your thought are. I really want the bike to ride
> smooth again when pedaling, I was told if I had them put a new chain on “it
> would make everything worse”.
>
>
> Also they thought the Deore rear I brought  would not work as it is a 9
> speed, I had to explain to this nice kid it did not matter as I friction
> shift.
>
>
> Bonus, I also found a NOS suntour rear Derailleur in the basement but
> think I will keep the Deore as well as it was not expensive at REI.
>
>
> Please help
>
>
> I am near Springfield MA if anyone knows of a good bike shop in the
> Hartford, Springfield, Nothampton area.
>
>
> I am cross posting to iBob as well.
>
>
> Joel
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What Is a Cheviot?

2020-03-28 Thread hugh flynn
I don't know enough to say who is wrong or right, and suspect it doesn't
matter anyway.  Given all the bad press the R559s have received, I was just
surprised when they worked so very well for my 650B conversion w/road
levers.

Hugh "haven't crashed yet" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 5:48 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> To clarify - this became a long convoluted thread on the 650B group with
> considerable disagreement - I've used new versions of these brakes, too,
> with mtb short-pull levers and still don't love them. YRMV because several
> people said I was full of the bollocks about this. Ride what you like, be
> happy! 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What Is a Cheviot?

2020-03-28 Thread hugh flynn
t;> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6ae3f79d-0a4c-47a1-9de7-2353b278e3f2%40googlegroups.com
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *Ahmed Elgasseir*
>
> Department Chair, Visual and Performing Arts
>
>
> *Castilleja School*
>
> 1310 Bryant Street
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>
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>
>
> P (415) 654-7977
>
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>
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>
>
> Follow us on Instagram <https://www.instagram.com/castilleja_school/> |
> Facebook <https://www.facebook.com/CastillejaSchool/> | Twitter
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Re: [RBW] Riv Girls: 3rd Annual Reunion

2020-03-14 Thread hugh flynn
We need a RBW ride patch for Riv Bike Women!

Hugh "this is awesome" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 7:03 PM Roberta  wrote:

>
> Oh, wouldn't that be fun to have these Riv Gal meetups around the country,
> and more of us on the Henderson one.
>
> Keep beginning of March open for next year!  Perhaps a week earlier to
> enjoy the burst of color of the cherry blossoms.  I'm sure Leah knows where
> all the best trees in bloom can be found.
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, March 13, 2020 at 12:31:18 PM UTC-7, JAS wrote:
>>
>> Leah, I'm so envious!  I love how you and Roberta are riding together and
>> helping her sister get the scoop on Rivs.  And you're open to more Riv
>> Girls joining the ride?!  I'd love to bring Clementine to Henderson
>> sometime.  Seems like I should follow your example and see  if PurpleRiv
>> would like to meet for an NRG (Northern Riv Girls) ride.
>> --Joyce
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones Sr. (51.5cm) (PBH 77.5-80.2)

2020-02-29 Thread hugh flynn
I'd be interested at it's current price if you could make it a 59!

I'm with Joe. It'll sell. It's a BEAUTIFUL bike.

Just might be a bit early in the year is all.

Hugh "Sorta glad it's not my size" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 6:33 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> It'll move eventually..it's still early in the year for bike selling, plus
> smaller sizes have a limited pool of riders available. Of course another
> price drop could help, but I know the pain of that having done it a few
> times. I get impatient and want it gone!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Vaughn's custom for sale

2020-02-29 Thread hugh flynn
Ok, fair enough, but I don't recall shushing anyone or implying one needs
to pass a Riv loyalty test. I simply find the tone of outrage and insult
over a frame being sold at cost a bit odd. I'm guessing the the builder and
painter got paid. It's a custom. They don't come at scale prices.

If I were selling it, I might have knocked a bit off for the paint chip,
but I'm not selling it or buying it, so my thoughts on the matter are
pretty meaningless. That said, I'm the fist to ridicule Rapha and others
for "epic" marketing and bro-tuned adds - and I'm about as far away from
being a customer of "epic" goods as one can get. So where does that leave
me? Probably somewhat more reflective about MY comments than I was earlier
today...

Hugh "got no dog in this fight" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 2:36 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Yes, there's exactly more to it as has generated discussion. The attitude
> that we have to shush and never be critical of anything is not helpful or
> healthy.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Vaughn's custom for sale

2020-02-29 Thread hugh flynn
The pearl clutching is a bit much. I'm going to assume this is just
mid-winter cabin fever settling in.

Someone has offered a bike for sale.

If you want it, buy it (someone has) If you don't, don't. Is there any more
to it?

Hugh "really glad it was too small for me, cause I thought it was a dope
bike" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 1:48 AM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Or course now I still want a Fitz. After that whole story about not being
> into taking all the measurements and lots of talking on the phone (or in
> person, it's 30 miles from me) and blah blah blah. It's only money, right?
> 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice Needed: Best Remedy for a Slipping Hunqapillar Seatpost

2020-02-20 Thread hugh flynn
'Twas a time that builders used special bolts in seatpost binders. They
were a socket and bolt combo that fit through holes in the seat lug tabs.
One side was free to spin (the bolt side) and the other side (the socket
side) had a key on the collar that fit into a slot cast into the lug to
prevent it from turning.

Those slots are there for the "key" on the socket side of the seatpost bolt
arrangement. One could choose which side to put the keyed socket in I
guess, but you'd never use both keyed sides at the same time or you would
be able to tighten the seatpost binder.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, ma

On Thu, Feb 20, 2020 at 12:47 PM John Phillips  wrote:

> Hi Hugh,
>
> I'm curious, what are the slots on the sides of the holes where the
> bolt goes through, and why are the holes on opposing sides of the holes?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2020 at 7:38:37 PM UTC-8, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>
>> Things like this also exist - centered hanger but attaches outside the
>> seat lug ears. May require some ebay work, but probably easier than getting
>> a custom Riv built.
>>
>>
>> https://www.renaissance-cycle.com/product/692267/weinmann-rear-brake-cable-hanger-nos-bx5-04-5-29-19
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 9:15 PM John Phillips  wrote:
>>
>>> Well, I hadn't thought of that, but I guess I could order a custom
>>> Rivendell with 54cm Hunqapillar geometry, maybe with an iridescent Woolly
>>> mammoth brown paint job?
>>>
>>> But I think there's a more reasonable solution, like the Surly or Paul
>>> brake hangers. ;)
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 19, 2020 at 5:35:00 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>>
>>>> "Personally, I'd just get a new frame."
>>>>
>>>> That's what I do when I get a scratch.
>>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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Re: [RBW] In your opinion, what's missing from the Riv lineup?

2020-02-14 Thread hugh flynn
I agree with Dave - It's the single-speed option that's missing from the
line-up.

I've been getting by with a Surly Cross Check set up as a fixed gear for
the last 22 years, and I've missed every opportunity that Grant has offered
to buy a SimpleOne/QuickBeam over the years, but should they return to the
line up, I'd be sure to grab one.

Hugh "hoping for one more batch of QuickBeam's for old time's sake" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 9:39 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Thanks, all. Someone else suggested a Soma Tradesman, which does indeed
> look more rideable than the old rod braked one, and named Yasujiru, which
> Googling, brought up this page; lots of choices!
>
>
> https://duckduckgo.com/?q=yasujiro+mini+cargo+bike=ffab=v167-1=images=images=https%3A%2F%2Fi.pinimg.com%2F236x%2F86%2Ff0%2F62%2F86f062f3dd8dc14b766743d89296dfac--bike-packing-cargo-bike.jpg
>
> But alas I have 2 bike -- not quite projects, but hopes, in the queue
> before anything like this.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: How & when & why did you find Rivendell? What was your first bike or part from them?

2020-01-13 Thread hugh flynn
o it was a very convenient
> transaction. The Rambouillet is by far the most beautiful bike I have ever
> owned, and I get compliments every time I ride it. Function wise, it's also
> the best road bike I've ever own. Most of the credit goes to the previous
> owners, who took the stock build and added some wonderful accoutrements,
> namely hammered Honjo fenders and a Berthoud bag. The only things I've done
> have been to convert it to drop bars (it came to me with Albatrosses) and
> tweak the front fender a bit, adding a forward stay so that it doesn't
> rattle as much.
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmqiuhka
>
> Here's some pictures a friend took of me on it yesterday, on a big ride
> from Richmond, across the now-bikeable Richmond-San Rafael bridge, over Mt.
> Tam, and finally across the Golden Gate to San Francisco. It was a big ride
> for a flatlander like me but the bike performed wonderfully the whole day.
> Apologies for the hand gesture, it's a bit of an inside joke between me and
> the photographer.
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B7M4vXTlfVj/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
>
> -Jeremy Till
> Sacramento, CA
>
>
> On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 9:52:28 AM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
>>
>> Leah's discussion about long wheel base led to a lot of interesting
>> discussions about how people found Rivendell. I'd like to know:
>>
>>- How you first found out about Rivendell?
>>- What caused you to actually get your first Rivendell frame or
>>component (or something Riv inspired) ... and what was that first buy?
>>- And could you add a photo of that first?
>>
>> Personally, I was overweight and looking to make my biking more
>> comfortable back in 2004 in Berkeley. Searching online led me to look at
>> Brooks saddles and sweptback handlebars and ultimately to Rivendell to buy
>> some steel Albatross bars ... which I still use today! On a student budget,
>> I attached them to a Jamis Coda Sport (steel frame) with beefed up wheels
>> from The Missing Link bike co-op. Then about 2 years ago my friend Ronnie
>> gave me a Cheviot frame to build up as a distraction while waiting to
>> adopt. The moment I finished building the bike, as I was attaching the
>> pedals my wife pulled into the garage, jumped out of the car and with tears
>> and a huge smile and told me to get plane tickets to Kansas because our
>> daughter was about to be born! Now our daughter is almost 2 years old and I
>> have the Cheviot, a Sam Hillborne, and the same friend is lending me a
>> Rosco Baby frame until that we built a couple weeks ago for front kid seat
>> rides.
>>
>> When Grant met my daughter, he noticed the "Baby Muggle On Board" sticker
>> on our car window ... he was rightfully concerned that we didn't know if
>> she was a muggle or not!
>>
>> Ride on,
>> Abe
>>
>> Some pics of my other Rivendell bikes (and the Rosco Baby with those
>> original Albatross bars) here - https://imgur.com/a/wWgiDmh
>>
>> [image: IMG_4021.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

2020-01-08 Thread hugh flynn
You shouldn't be surprised by that at all.  From my time working in bike
retail I can say many $8k+ bikes are sold to people who don't know how to
fix a flat let alone care about gear ratios, pneumatic trail, frame angles,
or even the fact that handlebars can be raised or lowered. Members of the
Bob/riv lists are a special, self-selected, set of enthusiast bike nerds
(said with the upmost respect I assure you as I is one too).

Do you think, for example, that Jimmy Carter agonized over chainstay length
before ordering his Rivs?

I hope not.

Hugh "just ride" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:33 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

>
> It would be surprising to me that someone would spend the money on a
> Rivendell without being quite educated about bikes, but let's face it,
> Rivendell is quite a "lifestyle brand" in a sense since Grant has a unique
> perspective in the industry. So I guess it could happen. Rivendells are
> meant to be a "don't worry about the details and just ride your bike" kind
> of company but at the price point, I think most buyers are fairly die-hard
> cyclists who have probably done a fair bit of their own wrenching.  Always
> exceptions, though.
>
> Back to the topic at hand, I do wonder where the dust will settle - the
> pendulum can sometimes swing a bit, and it's completely possible that the
> average CS length will decrease in the next three years.  Maybe it'll
> further increase.  That's the topic of debate, though.  I have fully bought
> into the idea that most people ride bikes with too-short chainstays, and I
> also believe that front-centers getting longer (and stems getting
> correspondingly shorter) is a benefit to most riders.  But I also believe
> that most too-short chainstays are only too short by a small margin on
> small sizes.  It's a completely different thing to put 50cm chainstays on a
> 61cm frame versus a 51cm frame, and the latter is, in my opinion, a bad
> idea (unless it's a touring bike).
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dealing with verbal harrassment on the road

2019-05-14 Thread hugh flynn
It's weird, but yer right (It's not weird that you're right, that happens
often enough. Rather, it's the  situation in New Hampshire that's weird).

I live in northern MA, but ride up into N.H. all the time. I swear just
crossing state line improves things. That whole "Masshole" thing is
certainly well-earned.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, May 13, 2019 at 3:45 PM Peter White  wrote:

> There's an easy fix for this problem.
>
> MOVE TO NEW HAMPSHIRE!
>
> Here in New Hampshire, even the guys in the pickup trucks jacked up an
> extra foot with the AR-15 in the rear window gun rack are extremely polite.
> When I occasionally go south to MA to ride with old friends I'm always
> intimidated by the drivers.
>
> Peter White
>
> On Sun, May 12, 2019 at 12:55 PM John Clifford 
> wrote:
>
>> I've had people yell at me to get off the road when I was in a marked
>> bicycle lane, too. I've had people pull up beside me on a narrow two-lane
>> residential corridor and tell me that riding on the road was unsafe...
>> while they were about to push me into the ditch. In both cases, it was a
>> woman, in a nice crossover SUV (Lexus, Mercedes), who I assume were trying
>> to do me a favor and inform me of my bad or unsafe behavior of being on the
>> road. I've only had one problem in a rural area, while I was part of a big
>> ride (Seattle to Portland) where a logging truck deliberately tried to run
>> me off the road into a bramble-filled ditch. Very scary to have those big
>> truck wheels within a foot of me. But, most people are nice, and I agree
>> with the advice of smiling and waving... it seems to wake people up and
>> shame them.
>>
>> I have to wonder if much of this is due to the stresses of modern life
>> and the culture we live in that makes some people think they are best
>> qualified to tell others what to do and how to live. That's what I get on
>> my bike to escape from.
>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto M18 vs Mini Front for carrying a basket

2019-05-13 Thread hugh flynn
As a minor clarification, the direction is not to use baskets with M12 or
similar mini racks designed to support a front rando-style bag (which would
presumably also be supported by a decaleur).

I do not believe Nitto or anyone else has stated that baskets can not be
used with ANY Nitto front rack. The 34F or other full-sized front racks
should be fine with a basket.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, May 13, 2019 at 7:02 AM Fullylugged 
wrote:

> The Nitto site still says no baskets on these racks.  it's not just the
> weight, it's the down force on bumps too.  There are sturdy racks intended
> for baskets which are the better choice.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Mystery bike in April Blahg

2019-04-29 Thread hugh flynn
I'm no knuckle-dragger, the headbadge is a must!

I get your point, and agree. The names and the decals are added fun. My
point, quite simply, is that a good bike is a good bike with or without the
name on the downtube. The obverse is true too, but that's a conversation
for a different  forum.

Hugh "    " Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, Apr 29, 2019 at 7:41 PM 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> For me, for better or worse, the decals and the model name and other
> possible flourishes are part and parcel of the bike. Clem's wouldn't be
> quite so klemish without that guy coming out of the manhole cover. Orosco
> pub has a cool head badge and a cool name, etc. (I left the voice
> recognition software interpretation of what I said. I think most will guess
> what model I was talking about!)
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB Hunqapillar questions

2019-04-29 Thread hugh flynn
The bullmoose is a stunningly bad idea that works out so very well. Paying
extra to get a stem and handlebar you can't adjust is baffling, but I've
done it twice and love them.

I went with the Riv version both times, but that's because the bikes I put
them on needed the rise they offer. The Faiweather, as Reid points out, has
less sweep back, and significantly less rise. I will admit to wishing I had
1 or 2 cm more reach on the Riv ones, but I also love the angle that the
sweep provides, so I'm good.

If you don't need the rise offered by the Riv bullmoose or anticipate that
the sweep back could be an issue, give 'em a try!

Hugh "bullish" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, Apr 29, 2019 at 9:41 AM Reid Echols  wrote:

> I use the fairweather bullmoose bars with an adapter on my Appaloosa, and
> find that slightly less sweep/rise and more width compared to the Riv
> version is ideal for trail riding for me. Just another data point, I'm sure
> all of the options described above would work well, too.
>
> Here's a photo of the setup I ran a while back (transitioning to Crust
> drops now):
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BipPGR_hJwV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
>
> Reid in Austin
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>
>> I went from stock Bosco to Chocomoose to Jones 2.5 riser loop on my 65cm
>> Clem and greatly prefer the shape/width of the Jones for most of my riding
>> (which is non-technical multiple use paths with road and some technical
>> single track sprinkled in.). This is with the 66cm wide Jones and leads me
>> to believe that I’d be just as happy with the Riv Bullmoose should I decide
>> to try and eliminate the VO quill adapter and threadless 31.8 stem from the
>> equation.
>>
>> The Chocomoose just felt a bit too narrow with too much backsweep for the
>> few technical sections but otherwise feel great on the nontechnical stuff.
>>
>> Brian Cole
>> Lawrenceville NJ
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Mystery bike in April Blahg

2019-04-28 Thread hugh flynn
Meh. While I really enjoy Rivendell's approach to decal design and naming,
I'd buy and ride them with no decals. Hell, I'd probably prefer it.

Love the headbadges though.

Hugh "A nice bike by any name would ride just as well" Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Sun, Apr 28, 2019 at 1:55 AM Corwin  wrote:

> I agree completely about Rivs wearing Rivendell decals. One of several
> reasons I got a custom instead of a Roadeo.
>
> Namaste,
>
>
> Corwin
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 2:08:26 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> My super unpopular opinion: I wish they all were identifiable as
>> Rivendells from across the street, and had the model name in small letters
>> on the toptube.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

2019-04-15 Thread hugh flynn
That was the larger part of my point, yes. Time spent in this life
adjusting threaded headsets = statistically zero. Time spent adjusting
threadless headsets = every time I swap a stem. Neither really amounts to
enough time to give either a second thought, but the fact remains I've set
threadless preload many more times than I have actually used my collection
of headset wrenches.

Hugh

On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 10:50 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I get it; sorry, Hugh, I misunderstood. Yes, headset adjustment is rarely
> needed for either type once done correctly.
>
> On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 8:20 AM Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>> Which is to say, headsets very seldom need to be adjusted.  Which indeed
>> is Hugh's point: you may size time adjusting, but since you do it so
>> infrequently in the big picture the savings are inconsequential.
>>
>> It's the same thing with coding: you optimize code in an inner loop, that
>> executes a lot, not code that executes only once each time the program runs.
>>
>>
>> On 4/15/19 10:12 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Frequency? All the threadless headsets I've owned kept their adjustment
>> at least as well as all the threaded ones I've used; and setting pre-load
>> is far easier than setting bearing load on a threaded system and keeping it
>> set while tightening the locknut.
>>
>> Patrick: threadless systems certainly have their disadvantages -- largely
>> that it's harder to adjust bar height -- but overall they are a heck of a
>> lot easier to adjust than threaded ones.
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 9:49 PM hugh flynn  wrote:
>>
>>> The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it
>>> is astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...
>>>
>>> That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency
>>> with which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded
>>> headset adjustmemt, one doesn't have to fiddle with headset preload when
>>> changing or adjusting a quill stem.
>>>
>>> Hugh "net gain is null" Flynn
>>> Newburyport, MA
>>> --
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Steve Palincsar
>> Alexandria, Virginia
>> USA
>>
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>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> Expensive! But good.
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

2019-04-14 Thread hugh flynn
The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it is
astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...

That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency with
which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded headset
adjustmemt, one doesn't have to fiddle with headset preload when changing
or adjusting a quill stem.

Hugh "net gain is null" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:07 PM Drw  wrote:

> Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so
> complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so
> that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt
> actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 61 Atlantis - Toyo or Waterford

2019-03-31 Thread hugh flynn
Oh, so now it's all "read the subject line" is it? Fine, be that way :-)

Sometimes I lose the forest for the trees. Sorry about that.

Hugh "basic reading skills" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 4:05 PM tom coppedge  wrote:

> Thanks, Hugh, but looking for an older one, per subject line - Toyo or
> Waterford :-)  You're right, though, if I were looking for the MIT
> Atlantis, the Joe might work if smaller sizes were in stock, since I'm
> looking for more standover than my 64 Toyo Atlantis.
>
> Tom
>
> On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 3:10 PM hugh flynn  wrote:
>
>> Are you looking for a new LWB Atlantis or an older one?
>>
>> If a LWB one will do, given the interchangeability of the LWB Atlantis
>> and the Appaloosa, you could grab a 62 Joe from the web specials section of
>> the Riv site and have a silver or blue Atlantis...
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 10:14 AM tc  wrote:
>>
>>> HA - so true, Matt, so true.  Like you, I'm keeping my current Toyo
>>> (64), and hope to never sell it.  But wanting a 61 (or 58 Hunq) for more
>>> standover and a different cockpit for more adventuresome riding.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 10:22:36 PM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Just buy something else.  As soon as you do, one will pop up.
>>>>
>>>> --
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>> --
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>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 61 Atlantis - Toyo or Waterford

2019-03-31 Thread hugh flynn
Are you looking for a new LWB Atlantis or an older one?

If a LWB one will do, given the interchangeability of the LWB Atlantis and
the Appaloosa, you could grab a 62 Joe from the web specials section of the
Riv site and have a silver or blue Atlantis...



On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 10:14 AM tc  wrote:

> HA - so true, Matt, so true.  Like you, I'm keeping my current Toyo (64),
> and hope to never sell it.  But wanting a 61 (or 58 Hunq) for more
> standover and a different cockpit for more adventuresome riding.
>
> Tom
>
> On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 10:22:36 PM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>>
>> Just buy something else.  As soon as you do, one will pop up.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Name That Sound: Headset “Bink!” Edition

2019-03-23 Thread hugh flynn
On that point...it may not be the brake cable hitting anything, but could
be the sound of a rough edge  of the cable housing catching on the ferrule
when it moves.

I run into this more with comressionless shifter housing if the individual
strands aren't cut parallel to the end of the ferrule and they start to
poke through/catch as the cable moves. Given that you don't use shifters, I
can rule that out, but it could happen with regular old brake housing.

Hugh "hard to imagine a better name for the sound than 'Bink'" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019 at 5:43 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Great idea, Jeff! 80% sure I’ve checked this multiple times, but I will
> recheck to confirm that the brake cables are clear. It’s often the simple
> things that get us, aye? The last hard to identify sound I had turned out
> to be a loose bottle cage.
>
> It’s also spring and the birds are back. It is amazing how many birds
> sound like a metal “ting!” “bing!” or “bink!”! Bird? Or bike? That’s gotta
> be bike. Nope. Bird. Wow. How do they know to chirp in time with my pedal
> strokes to drive me batty? Sardonic grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: My first Rivendell!

2019-02-26 Thread hugh flynn
Not a real off road aficionado here, but yeah!

I think there's a balance to be struck between tracking and "responsive"
steering in bike design, but so far I've been super happy with off road
riding on my LWB Appaloosa. Not *feeling* any loss on the manouverability
front.

Hugh

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019 at 6:57 AM OwenS  wrote:

> Thanks for the warm welcome everybody! So far I've commuted every day on
> the Clem Smith and loving it.
> Still learning its quirks and movements and have definitely pushed it to
> what I thought would be its limits (dirt tracks and sand) and yet it
> continues to deliver.
>
> One thing I notice when riding it off-road and things get a little sketchy
> is the lng wheelbase gives you a lot of time to recover if the rear
> wheel starts to wash out. It also seems to track very well and just plough
> through sandy sections of track.  Have never experienced anything like it.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: My first Rivendell!

2019-02-22 Thread hugh flynn
I have yet to find a detailer or brakes that outlast shimano's 7 speed
Deore DX line. I certainly don't hesitate to pull them off thrift store
bikes and pop 'em on my fancy bikes. They even work fine with my very
modern shifters (caveat, I never got more modern than 8sp indexed downtube
shifters, but it sounded good).

Seriously though, those things are going to outlive me. I have quite a few
DX hubs still running fine (one got a surly fix-r and is now a fixed gear).
I can live quite happily without Dura-Ace, Red, Record, etc. Give me the
good stuff that works and lasts.

Those silver sun-tour front hubs Riv sold for something like $10 about 20
years ago are still humming along and looking great.

Hugh "simple and solid" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 8:08 PM brendonoid  wrote:

> Congrats on the purchase. I am a fellow Aussie (perth) riv owner and I'm
> warning you; you don't stop at just one.
> And yes, 'cheaper' components just usually means more durable/functional.
> Welcome to the club!
>
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Re: [RBW] Fenders

2019-02-14 Thread hugh flynn
Justin Oakland asks:

"Has anyone mounted the SKS B65 (
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/accessories/products/sks-esge-commuter-ii-silver-fenders-b65-700c-29er)
on a AHH/Saluki/Hillborne/Country bike that takes 42ish tires? How do they
fit?"

Well, that depends on how you want to define "fit."

I have the SKS B65's mounted on an Appaloosa running 700 x 44 (Snoqualamine
Pass) tires. As far as side to side coverage is concerned, the B65's are
great! Ample coverage on both sides of the tire. Front to back though, they
are quite a bit...shorter...than one used to P45's or Longboard's might
expect. I get that plastic fenders are often shorter than their metal
counterparts, but man, these are short even by plastic fender standards.

Depending on how you look at it, that might be an advantage. Sure, they
provide less coverage from rain splatter, but on a bike that sees off-road
use, they are certainly less likely to pick-up sticks and other debris.

Hugh "Shawty" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 3:00 PM Justin, Oakland 
wrote:

> Has anyone mounted the SKS B65 (
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/accessories/products/sks-esge-commuter-ii-silver-fenders-b65-700c-29er)
> on a AHH/Saluki/Hillborne/Country bike that takes 42ish tires? How do they
> fit?
>
> -J
>
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Re: [RBW] Bullmoose Bars Make Brilliant AllWays Adventure Bars

2019-02-09 Thread hugh flynn
A far better review than the one I provided over on iBob for my recent
bullmoose adventures, but couldn't agree more with every word you've
written. They are surprising. Never had a flat bar that offered so many
different hand positions. I have now added them to two of my fixed gears
which see a mixture of on and off road use.

Mono-fixed with threadless bullmoose (Lousy workshop photos. While I did
get out for a ride on this one today after adding Compass Rat Trap Pass
tires, It was too cold for me to bother stopping to get better photos):
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rye1cGcMtpdMVZVh7

Electra Fixed-Delivery with quill bullmoose:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kt6Gk75qGqsj5w7f7

Hugh "Bullish" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 3:18 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> In which I get a perfect day to test out my new bullmoose bars, with brisk
> temps, steady breezes around 20mph and sneezes up to 40mph, while coming
> and going, climbing and descending, and singletrack with bounce and jounce.
> Delightful!
>
> https://snap.as/deaconpatrick/bullmoose-bars-initial-impressions
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
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-- 
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Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] Fun Day w/ Joe A.

2019-01-27 Thread hugh flynn
Ha! You do look to be a little closer to spring already than we are here in
the Northeast...

Looks like that was a fun outing.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sun, Jan 27, 2019 at 9:37 PM J Imler  wrote:

> We're getting more amped for spring to arrive. Here's a sample of Joe
> helping us prepare. The boy got a kick out of picking "sunflowers" on
> today's venturing.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1-4j59r1rHERg0DHIjzy_k7azyQNk10LD
>
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Re: [RBW] Joe Appa vs new Atlantis?

2019-01-25 Thread hugh flynn
They are pretty darn similar, but I do suggest calling Will at Riv to
discuss. They know this best.

>From my review of the specs, the Appaloosa and LWB Atlantis are offered in
slightly different sizes and I believe you can fit slightly wider tires on
some sizes of Atlantis than the roughly corresponding Appaloosa. Aside from
that, they seem interchangeable to me.

Hugh "58 Appaloosa" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 11:08 AM Ian A  wrote:

> Your post is somewhat hidden in this saddle thread, Doug.
>
> Good questions, but maybe repost as a new topic.
>
> IanA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillborne dropbar, bar-ends: Cross shifter housings then cables?

2019-01-17 Thread hugh flynn
I don't remember when I first learned about the cross in front/recross
under the downtube method but yeah, if you are looking for ways to minimize
paint rub, it's a  good option.

As noted below, under tube bottle mounts can get in the way, but that
varies by bike. On one frame, I had to add spacers under the cage to keep
the cables from hitting it, but that was a simple fix. You definitely want
to make sure there's nothing hitting/obstructing the cables. Other than
that, never had an issue with it.

Hugh "criss-cross" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 2:31 AM 'Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I've done that on bikes with drops and bar-ends when possible, to protect
> the frame. It is not conventional practice, but neither right nor wrong.
> Did it on my A. H. Hilsen and indexing seemed a little problematic with
> socket head water bottle bolts in the down tube, underside braze-ons. The
> shifting wires rubbed them.
>
> I've replaced them with domed, button heads. The problem would likely
> return with anything I mounted on the underside of the down tube.
>
> Note that mine is a Toyo and the MIT bikes appear to have their down tube
> cable stops much closer to 6:00 on the tube rather than 3:00 and 9:00. That
> could work better.
>
> If I revert to the usual cabling convention I'll put transparent
> helicopter tape on the lower part of the head tube where rubbing would
> occur.
>
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley
> (Need to go look at my AHH braze-ons to check positioning!)
>
>
> On Wednesday, January 16, 2019 at 11:14:00 PM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
>>
>> Looks like the prebuilt Hillborne with dropbar and bar-end sfifters has
>> the cable housings cross in front of the headtube, then the cables cross
>> again under the downtube. But my assumption was not to cross them at all.
>> Right shift cable stays on the right, same for left.
>>
>> Is one way right or is it a form vs. function sort of thing? My only
>> guess is it may avoid rubbing the headtube?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Gus Boots Willsen on Shell Ridge

2019-01-16 Thread hugh flynn
It's hard to wrap your head around long chainstay bikes.. until you thrown
your leg over one and ride.

Then the head gets it.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 6:26 AM Lester Lammers 
wrote:

> It's hard to wrap your head around the long chainstays but the ride is
> sublime.
>
>
> On Wednesday, January 16, 2019 at 12:15:39 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I have to admit that I am very tempted to try one of Riv's long-wheelbase
>> bikes on dirt roads and paths; it's probably just age. But yours is
>> certainly pretty.
>>
>> 2.8"? What is the actual, measured width? They don't look wider than my
>> (actual) 60s which are labeled 2.35.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *And though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take
>> the hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
>> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
>> ---
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
>> Other professional writing services
>> Expensive! But good.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>>
>> 
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike day. 56cm 650B Atlantis

2019-01-13 Thread hugh flynn
Same here for my Appaloosa. Bought it as a road/touring bike not a
dedicated trail rider.

Was sized by Riv charts as a 55, but felt it was too small when I got it
and built it up. Ordered a 58 and it couldn't be more perfect for me.

Semi related: I have a blue 55 Appaloosa with under 200 miles on it for
sale if anyone wants one :-) been meaning to get a proper listing together,
but haven't done it yet.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 9:52 AM Lester Lammers 
wrote:

> I wanted a MIT Atlantis and Riv recommended a 50. I told Will that I would
> not be using it as a single track but as an all rounder with some light
> trails. I'm at the top of the 50 PBH range and the bottom of the 53. I got
> the 53 and it is the best fitting bike I have owned. Hope this helps.
>
>
> On Saturday, January 12, 2019 at 5:55:10 PM UTC-5, jamison brosseau wrote:
>>
>> Congratulations Bill!  The new bike looks great!  I can’t decide between
>> the 56 and the 59.
>> Have fun
>> JB
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Nice plaid bags!

2019-01-10 Thread hugh flynn
Bagmatcher.



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 9:28 PM tc  wrote:

> Lordy, so true!!
>
> Tom
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Ultra Romance and his Rivendell Atlantis.

2019-01-09 Thread hugh flynn
You calling us navel-gazers?

Them's fighting words :-)

Cycling content: Never leave your belly-button at home when you go for a
ride. You never know when you might need it.

Hugh "abandoning decorum" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 8:04 AM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> What in the world does being born with an inny or an outty and being
> unhappy about it have to do with cycling? Religion? Sure. Science?
> Youbetcha. Politics. Aye. Sigh. But, here, cycling? No. Please. No. Let us
> not be inclusive of being so wildly inclusive as to be exclusive and
> devisive. Let’s stay focused on Riv and cycling please.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis and Hillborne

2019-01-08 Thread hugh flynn
As a recent newbie to LCS (long chainstay) bikes, all I can say is try it.

It's magnificent.

Seriously. I look at my short chainstay bikes with marginal contempt now.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 11:08 AM Randall Rupp  wrote:

> The MIT Atlantis and Appaloosa have enormous chainstays, 52cm in my size -
> wow.  I knew the Appaloosa was set up that way but didn't realize the
> Atlantis geometry changed.  Haven't tried it so I'm not dismissing it.  I'm
> sure they both ride swell.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 9:02 AM hugh flynn  wrote:
>
>> Not to complicate things further, but there's also the Appaloosa to
>> consider. Pretty 95% overlap with the MIT Atlantis, but in different colors
>> and size points.
>>
>> Def good for road and touring with the wider tire options of the Atlantis.
>>
>> Hugh "Joe" Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 12:05 AM Jonathan D.  wrote:
>>
>>> Has the tubing for the Sam changed over time?  I thought it was the same
>>> as the old Toyo Atlantis, which I thought was double butter and .9.6.9. I
>>> think I read it in an old Riv Reader. I am not sure in the end it really
>>> matters but always interesting to know. I have had a Sam and a Appaloosa
>>> and a Toyo Atlantis. They all
>>> ride like a Riv, and as Bill points out, can ride similar based on the
>>> build. The long chainstay heavier tube lend to loaded touring well but
>>> skimmed down feels stable and smooth. The Appaloosa almost feels like you
>>> are on water. It turns and handles great but in a very smooth way that is
>>> unique. I almost sold the Appaloosa until I switched it back to 42s. Now it
>>> rides more like the Sam I sold. If I bought a Sam again (would love an old
>>> green Toyo Sam) I would build it as a road drop bar bike. If I wanted
>>> Albatross or Choco bars I would get a long chain stay bike.
>>>
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>> --
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>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis and Hillborne

2019-01-08 Thread hugh flynn
Not to complicate things further, but there's also the Appaloosa to
consider. Pretty 95% overlap with the MIT Atlantis, but in different colors
and size points.

Def good for road and touring with the wider tire options of the Atlantis.

Hugh "Joe" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 12:05 AM Jonathan D.  wrote:

> Has the tubing for the Sam changed over time?  I thought it was the same
> as the old Toyo Atlantis, which I thought was double butter and .9.6.9. I
> think I read it in an old Riv Reader. I am not sure in the end it really
> matters but always interesting to know. I have had a Sam and a Appaloosa
> and a Toyo Atlantis. They all
> ride like a Riv, and as Bill points out, can ride similar based on the
> build. The long chainstay heavier tube lend to loaded touring well but
> skimmed down feels stable and smooth. The Appaloosa almost feels like you
> are on water. It turns and handles great but in a very smooth way that is
> unique. I almost sold the Appaloosa until I switched it back to 42s. Now it
> rides more like the Sam I sold. If I bought a Sam again (would love an old
> green Toyo Sam) I would build it as a road drop bar bike. If I wanted
> Albatross or Choco bars I would get a long chain stay bike.
>
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Re: [RBW] Mismatched tires

2019-01-01 Thread hugh flynn
I'd go bigger in front ... and often do.

Even though the size differences are small, putting differently sized tires
on a bike will "tip" the bike up slightly on the side that has the larger
one which effectively changes your frame angles and bar relative saddle/bar
heights.

So in this case, with a 10mm difference in tire size, putting the larger
one in front will shift your bars up 5mm relative to your saddle and relax
the effective seat tube/head tube angles ever so slightly. If you put the
larger tire in the rear, you'll raise your saddle 5mm relative to the bars
(but not actually change the saddle height) and steepen your effective seat
tube/head tube angles ever so slightly.

I'll almost always go for the relaxing effect of larger in front.

Hugh "not a huge difference either way, but still..." Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 11:31 AM Kainalu V.  wrote:

> No opinion really, but tradition dictates that the bigger rubber goes up
> front.
> Happy new year!
> -Kai
> BKNY
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: In praise of fixed mountain riding

2018-11-24 Thread hugh flynn
I've been riding fixed on trails since I discovered how awesome fixed is
for ice/snow riding back in the 90s and thought, if I can do that, surely I
can ride trails fixed! Granted, I just ride trails and not super technical
stuff because I'm old and the super technical stuff makes my back hurt
after a while.

Foot retention? Meh. With or without is fine (for me). If you have a front
brake on the bike, you can recover if your foot comes off by slowing down
until you can get your foot back on.  In practice, I've just never really
struggled with that though. If I find myself spinning THAT fast, I just
scrub a little speed off with the brake before things get too hairy.

Hugh "I can fix that" Flynn
Newburyport, MA



On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 2:09 AM Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Single track A and single track B are more different from each other than
> single track A is from a paved trail.
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless versus threaded stems -- convenience summary

2018-11-08 Thread hugh flynn
Best of both worlds is quill stem with removable face plate. Below Orange
makes some.

With there were more.

I've "cheated" a bit and used threadless stems with quill adapters when
trying to get my fit right. Once that's done, I've always replaced with a
real quill just because I find the quill adapter approach to look so
clunky.

Hugh "fretting fiddler" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 10:05 PM 'Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I get the best of both worlds on about half my bikes by using a threadless
> stem and stem riser.  The stem is threadless and has a removable faceplate
> so I can swap the stem without stripping the bars.  It's attached to a
> riser that's essentially a threaded quill stem without the extension.  A
> link to Velo-Orange's option is below, but others make them as well (Soma
> is the other one I use when I need one that's longer than VO's).  It's not
> as elegant as a classic quill stem, but oh man, the added convenience
> overwhelms that drawback for most bikes.
>
> If you don't want to live with one forever, it's at least a great option
> to let you dial in your stem dimensions before that one final set-up that
> requires you to strip and retape.
>
>
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/stems/products/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor
>
> Dave
> Boston/Indy
>
> On Wednesday, November 7, 2018 at 11:16:50 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>
>> But OTOH, the huge amount of work saved by not having to untape the bar
>> and remove clamped-on fittings, and the savings in replacing bar tape (I
>> manage to mess up tape when removing it several times) makes the difference
>> in my opinion a wash.
>>
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Re: [RBW] What epoch of Rivster are you?

2018-10-07 Thread hugh flynn
I'm a Proto-2TT-Nuevo.

The two most-ridden bikes in my collection are my '99 Heron Road and my '18
double TT Appaloosa.

Hugh "spanning the ages" Flynn
Newburyport, MA




On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 7:55 PM Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or
> aesthetic most appeals to list members?
>
> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best?
> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through
> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early,
> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now?
>
>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and
>Herons?
>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your
>favorites?
>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco?
>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker,
>and a Gus Bootster?
>
> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era
> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in
> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but
> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive.
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

2018-07-26 Thread hugh flynn
Never has the phrase "your mileage may vary" had more meaning than in a
discussion of the failure mode of carbon fiber bike parts...

Hugh "fail gracefully" Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 1:38 PM masmojo  wrote:

> Just saying we should be able to have a spirited discussion, be objective
> and not take things personally.
>
> I am posting this link, but I should qualify that I am not trying to make
> any particular point; just that I was somewhat surprised at the punishment
> inflicted on  these CF frames. It made me sort of rethink my stance on CF a
> little. Still, this video prompts a lot of questions in itself. It is
> notable that when the carbon does fail, it does so spectacularly.
>
> https://youtu.be/w5eMMf11uhM
>
> I think . . . Well . . . Draw your own conclusions. :-)
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

2018-07-24 Thread hugh flynn
On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 2:37 PM masmojo  wrote:

>
> ...
> Riv, people don't have problems with headsets coming loose!? Wow, I wonder
> what their secret is, I've never owned a bike with a quill stem that
> didn't  eventually need to be tightened. (& I've tried many techniques to
> tighten them so they don't come loose). On the other hand I've never had a
> threadless come loose.


Doubt it's Riv specific but in 40+ years and many 1,000's of miles of
cycling with both threadless and threaded headsets, I've never had a
problem with either and have yet to perform a field adjustment either on or
off road.

Hugh "not a big problem for me" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO inexpensive but decent utility bike; possible large BMX or possibly city bike with kickback hub

2018-07-22 Thread hugh flynn
Take a look at the 26" and 700c offerings for SE Racing (BMX). The OM Flyer
(oddly enough the BMX bike I rode 30 years ago as a lad) is steel but the
have several aluminum frames as well.

Likely to pick up one myself...

Hugh "not kidding, the OM stands for Old Man" Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Sun, Jul 22, 2018 at 2:34 AM Ian A  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> Have you considered looking on your local Craigslist? I just had a quick
> look on Albuquerque Craigslist and noted a one owner Novara Randonnee $360
> (no size, but currently belongs to a six footer), a large '89 one owner
> Specialized Rock Hopper Comp $70 (needs new wheels and probably lots of
> work) and a 57cm Schwinn World Tour $100.
>
> I appreciate that most used bikes require a degree of mechanical work so
> maybe not the best approach. The Novara Randonnee could be a super
> candidate for someone looking for something to commute on. But, at ~$300
> and if it's already in good shape, the Novara could be greatly preferable
> to a new $500 bike.
>
> IanA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Naive but very important question: how best to attach 12-packs to your rear rack?

2018-07-19 Thread hugh flynn
Well that's easy. One of the new bungee nets :-)

Hugh


On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 10:29 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Even the bungee holdout(s) have agreed that straps are better, and others
> have advised straps even for pork rinds, so Irish-Bulgarian straps it is. 2
> latitudinally, 1 longitudinally, right? Plus a spare or 2.
>
> Now what should I add to bulk up this order? (Whoops, another thread ...)
>
> Thanks all!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Naive but very important question: how best to attach 12-packs to your rear rack?

2018-07-19 Thread hugh flynn
Bungees- I make my own bungee straps with cord and hooks found at my LMS
(local marine shop). Allows me to ensure that I have bungees on hand for
all occasions in the right length to get the right tension for the intended
payload.

But cinch strap are still all around better.

Hugh


On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 10:16 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Ray: Thanks, I'm sold on the Bulgarian straps; and at only $8, they're
> True Value-cheap.
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 8:07 AM, Ray Varella 
> wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>> I’ve used cinch straps (like the Irish straps) for all sorts of large,
>> awkward and heavier packages. I run two around the box left to right and
>> one front to back. Does that make sense?
>> It holds things very securely for post office, farmers markets or work
>> runs.
>>
>> Ray
>>
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Naive but very important question: how best to attach 12-packs to your rear rack?

2018-07-18 Thread hugh flynn
Then straps or rope are the answer in my view. Bungee cords are not your
friend in this scenario.

Hugh


On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 10:31 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Sorry, should have been more clear. I want something to hold the 12-pack
> to the top of the rack without adding a basket or bigger panniers; just
> stick on top of rack, attach (your recommended solution), and ride home.
>
> Basket and big enough panniers not practical; this is the Hon Solo.
>
> On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 8:29 PM, hugh flynn  wrote:
>
>> Things that come to mind:
>>
>> - Wald Basket large enough for a 12 pack attached to rear rack.
>> - pannier large enough for a 12 pack attached to rear rack (the way I
>> usually do it).
>> - 2 panniers with 12 pack split in half so the weight is evenly
>> distributed (never seemed worth the effort to me)
>> - Nelson Camper saddle bag.
>> - enough Johns Irish straps to securely attach said afore mentioned pack
>> o' 12 (done this too).
>> - 12 pack balanced between forearms atop mustache bars (can't prove that
>> this works on Albastach bars).
>> - rope
>>
>> Hugh "have beer, will travel" Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 10:00 PM Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill's encouragement to buy the basket net led me to think of this. I
>>> have plenty of pannier room for objects up to the size of a 6 pack, but I
>>> want to carry the occasional 12-pack for short distances over smooth roads
>>> on the (obviously, more or less) standard-sized rear rack. I have used
>>> various bungees and they don't leave me overly confident of the security
>>> for such valuable cargo.
>>>
>>> Ideas?
>>>
>>> BTW, serious question that I've been meaning to ask but have kept
>>> forgetting.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>>> *
>>> ***
>>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>>
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>> --
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>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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>
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Re: [RBW] Naive but very important question: how best to attach 12-packs to your rear rack?

2018-07-18 Thread hugh flynn
Things that come to mind:

- Wald Basket large enough for a 12 pack attached to rear rack.
- pannier large enough for a 12 pack attached to rear rack (the way I
usually do it).
- 2 panniers with 12 pack split in half so the weight is evenly distributed
(never seemed worth the effort to me)
- Nelson Camper saddle bag.
- enough Johns Irish straps to securely attach said afore mentioned pack o'
12 (done this too).
- 12 pack balanced between forearms atop mustache bars (can't prove that
this works on Albastach bars).
- rope

Hugh "have beer, will travel" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 10:00 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Bill's encouragement to buy the basket net led me to think of this. I have
> plenty of pannier room for objects up to the size of a 6 pack, but I want
> to carry the occasional 12-pack for short distances over smooth roads on
> the (obviously, more or less) standard-sized rear rack. I have used various
> bungees and they don't leave me overly confident of the security for such
> valuable cargo.
>
> Ideas?
>
> BTW, serious question that I've been meaning to ask but have kept
> forgetting.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>
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Re: [RBW] The "One Bike" for a featherweight?

2018-07-12 Thread hugh flynn
Some good points have been raised here, and I'll echo the advice to ride
what you have until it doesn't work for you.

I've been riding a Heron Road (bought from Riv in 1998 or so) over mixed
terrain (including gravel) with 700 x 28 tires 20 years and have only JUST
converted it to 650 x 38. While I'm super happy with it, I really can't say
I was ever crazy unhappy with the 28s.

I have recently added an Appaloosa to the mix because I found the Heron
didn't handle well fully loaded with front/rear racks and bags. Start by
doing what you want on the San Marcos and see what you think. I'd be
willing to guarantee that you won't hurt the frame in any way doing so.

Hugh "underbiking" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Jul 12, 2018 at 12:09 AM Drw  wrote:

> I’m about 180lbs, so not a featherweight. At one time I had a hunqapillar,
> Sam and 1983 specialized expedition. I loved the hunq loaded but didn’t
> like it unloaded. In comparison the expedition was great unloaded and
> wobbly with a heavy load. The Sam was a happy medium but I wanted bigger
> clearances, v brakes (this was before the new versions came out) and not
> 700c wheels, so I sold all of the above and got a Waterford Atlantis. It’s
> more hunqapillar than Sam, but it’s pretty close to a 1 bike for me.  If I
> was lighter, I probably would go with something g like the ocean air
> rambler or a crust lightning bolt.
>
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Re: [RBW] Pics of your Nitto Big Front Rack install?

2018-07-05 Thread hugh flynn
That’s true (and not to be too pedantic, but they use P-clamps not
U-clamps.).

However, one can mount to the eyelets with the addition of two short struts
(on Riv forks (or others with the much higher than normal “mid” fork
eyelets). I don’t have photos on hand, but if you do a google image search
for Nitto 34f, you’ll find some examples.

Hugh “haven’t gotten around to mounting mine yet, but if I do I’ll post
pictures” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 11:26 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Have you watched the installation video on Rivbike? It shows Mark using
> clamps, not the mid-fork braze-ons.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-07-05 Thread hugh flynn
Noodles. Pretty much the only drop bar I use on any bike. They have quite a
long reach compared to others, but for me, that’s a good thing. Now that
I’ve paired them with a 9cm stem, all is flat out perfect for me.

Hugh “Noodle” Flynn
Newburyport, ma

On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 11:50 AM Mike Godwin  wrote:

> Hugh
> what bars have you on the Appaloosa? I am considering dirt drops of some
> sort. Have marks/dream bars to switch over, or VOs.
>
> Mike SLO CA
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Thanks Grant

2018-07-02 Thread hugh flynn
Well, I think we’re missing the larger point and that is that Richard was
upset that someone used course and vulgar language in reference to the
President when clearly the use of course and vulgar language is reserved
for the President hisself.

Imagine how upset Richard must have been about the way the current
President spoke about the last President before the current President was
the President.

Hugh “standards are like Rivendell top tubes on larger sized bikes” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 6:57 AM Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
> On 07/01/2018 11:21 PM, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> I personally have no use to be united with someone who agrees with the policy 
> of committing human rights violations.
>
>
>
> +1
>
>
> There are two main areas of disagreement here: those who disagree with
> overtly political content on a cycling mailing list and so object to this
> thread, and those who support the policy in question and object to its
> being objected to here.  To those in the former camp, I say this: it's not
> a cycling list per se, it's a list about Rivendell and historically Grant's
> writing about a subject *even though it's not cycling per se* has made it
> within the scope of the list.  Subjects such as Paleo diet and hatchets
> leave no doubt whatever about this in my mind.  So if you don't like the
> topic being discussed here, blame Grant or get over it and find a more
> "pure" list.
>
> As for the other group, those who support policies of committing human
> rights violations and dislike seeing them criticized here, I say this: piss
> off.
>
>
> --
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia
> USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Thanks Grant

2018-07-01 Thread hugh flynn
Having people in the same place with different viewpoints on topics
(greasing square tapers anyone?) doesn’t count as division unless we agree
to be excessively fragile in our collective worldview. I, for one, can take
it. It’s a bit of a shocker, but I’ve come to understand that good people
can view things differently than I do and still be good people.

Discussion is boring and if we believe that holding a different opinion
that the “group” is somehow bad. Welcome to life. It’s not a matter of
cultivating a fragile and artificial hegemony, it’s about understanding how
to listen to, learn from, and respect people who aren’t 100% like ourselves
in all aspects.

So, yes, thanks Grant!

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 7:56 AM Richard  wrote:

> Thanks Grant, good job at dividing us.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 1:06:04 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I agree. Even the "Other annoying threads" thread has become annoyingly
>> earnest.
>>
>> In general, we are all much more intelligent when talking about bikes.
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 10:59 AM, Deacon Patrick 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sigh. This thread wasn’t political, until it was.
>>>
>>> As I read it, all people posting here are for basic human rights. Not
>>> all people agree on who, what, where, when, or how. This disagreement in no
>>> way negates their support of human rights. Please, stop with the abundant
>>> falsifies of logic, judgements, and accusations.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>
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>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>> *
>> ***
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
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Re: [RBW] Socketed Seat Lug on a Hunqapillar

2018-06-30 Thread hugh flynn
I would argue the sockets make cutting the tubes easier and faster
(straight cut vs miters), allow the stays to be wider apart to accommodate
wider tires without bending/shaping, and as Peter notes assemble more
quickly via brazing vs filet. In other words, I suspect the lug caps
accommodate quicker/less error prone assembly. I don’t know that the
objective is a stronger joint although that could well be a benefit of this
method.

Hugh “not a builder” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Sat, Jun 30, 2018 at 7:25 AM Peter White  wrote:

> It's easier to get a fillet wrong. I got one wrong when I was building
> frames 20 years ago and it cracked. If you get the fillet right it can be
> lighter and more attractive. But if I were designing a frame to be
> inexpensive to make and strong, I'd forget about using fillets.
>
> On Fri, Jun 29, 2018 at 8:43 PM Stephen W. 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm not a frame builder. But I have a question for those that certainly
>> know more about bicycles/frames/lugs. Is the new socketed lug as strong,
>> perhaps stronger, than brazing the seat stays to the outside of the lug?
>> Just wondering.
>>
>> I've attached some pics, I think.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Stephen
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wool at 100*+

2018-06-29 Thread hugh flynn
Agree on the light weight recommendation! Since I don’t need pockets in my
riding clothes (I’ve got bags for that stuff), I’ve switched entirely to
light weight ibex/icebreaker wool T’s and polos. MUCH better in warm temps
than those super thick Swobo jerseys I’ve been riding in for the last 20
years.

Hugh “comfort” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Fri, Jun 29, 2018 at 7:34 AM Fullylugged 
wrote:

> Recently got the new RUSA summer weight wool jersey (there is a heavier
> version too).  Excellent in hot and humid weather. No nipple abrasion when
> wet, and no freezing when I go inside an air conditioned store or food stop
> on a long ride. Ebay is also a source for out of production but good stuff
> from Swobo, Ibex, and others.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 53 cm LWB Atlantis test ride

2018-06-27 Thread hugh flynn
Longboard is good!


On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 12:26 AM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> Longboard Atlantis.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 53 cm LWB Atlantis test ride

2018-06-26 Thread hugh flynn
Semi-related. I've been riding a 58cm Appaloosa for a couple of weeks now
(and a 55 for a few weeks before that).

All I can add is that from your ride report, the catalog is correct. You're
description of handling and "cush" with the LWB Atalantis is remarkably
similar to my experience riding the Appaloosas over mixed terrain since
early May. The one thing I will add is that I find myself sitting and
spinning up hills more with my Appaloosa more than I do on shorter wheel
base bikes - but that's a non-scientific observation. Perhaps it's a result
of the overall balance of the longer bike, maybe it's something else, but
it's simply something I've noticed.

For those with concerns about LWB bikes...I'm not finding anything to be
concerned about. The plush ride is delightful, and I have yet to find any
drawback when compared to my SWB bikes (or even my MWB bikes).



On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 10:28 AM Lester Lammers 
wrote:

> Thanks for the report. I'll have my 53cm built up soon but not soon enough.
>
>>
>>
>> The executive summary is the bike rides fantastically.  It really is
>> noticeably more supple and cushy than its predecessor.  If you're on the
>> fence about whether the "new & improved" version is worth getting excited
>> about, proceed to get excited.  At the price point, it's the deal of the
>> year.  If all you were looking for was thumbs-up-or-thumbs-down, read no
>> further.  It's truly everything the Atlantis has always been with subtle
>> improvements and nothing has been compromised or limited.
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dear Riv, please make a wider Noodle

2018-06-25 Thread hugh flynn
Man, if you have to ask...

Hugh

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 5:00 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> A Noodle-Moose would be hilarious.
>
> "What's that?"
>
> 'Noodle-Moose.'
>
> "Why?"
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-06-25 Thread hugh flynn
Measured at a point straight up from the B.B. (which is roughly around the
point where I stand over the bike) I get something in the 84-5cm range
which provides about 2cm before things would start to get tight.

Then again, I’m  running Compass 38s, which lowers the standover from what
I assume was a lager expected tire size with the Riv measurements. If I
were to run 48s with a massively knobby off-road tread things might get
close, but I’m not planning to do that.

What I did find switching from the 55 is that with much less quill height
needed, the bars come back towards me about 1cm less than they did on the
smaller frame (with about 6cm of quill extension). I’ve gone with a 9cm
stem  rather than the 10 I was thinking I’d need and all is truly
delightful.

Hugh “I think I have it all sorted now” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 9:12 AM WETH  wrote:

> Hugh,
> How does the standover height work? According to the geometry charts a 58
> Joe has a standover height of 87cm.  I run a 75.5 seat height but my PBH is
> 86-87cm.  With the sloaping toptube, is the standover height a bit lower if
> measured right in front of the saddle?
> Thanks.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dear Riv, please make a wider Noodle

2018-06-25 Thread hugh flynn
OH M G

NooodleMoose would be such an amazing, fantastic, and horrendous thing all
at once.

I want 9 of them.

Hugh “Noodle Rider” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 8:50 AM Virgil Staphbeard 
wrote:

> They could be moose-style to remove the ability for people to use an
> "unsafe-by-nitto-standards" stem.
>
>
> On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 8:20:14 AM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the info Grant. I can understand Nitto's position. I have a
>> lot of miles on those bars in road and "gravel" conditions and I don't get
>> any sense that they are weak or dangerous.
>>
>> Also, not sure what the deleted message said but I surely didn't intend
>> this to be a controversial post. I'm not a "gravel grinder" guy trying to
>> change Riv, just the opposite, I think if people had a chance to try extra
>> wide drop bars they would see how Riv-like the riding position is. I simply
>> fell out of love with my 48 noodles after riding for a year or so on a bike
>> with albatross bars (and another with the underrated surly open bar"). My
>> point is that Rivendell has been instrumental in advancing smart, safe, and
>> more comfortable ways to ride bikes. I rode tons of road bikes in the 90s
>> and 00s with standard 42-44cm bars. In general the idea was to stretch out
>> forward over the bike (long stem helped with the narrow bars). This put
>> your arms into a more narrow position (and I was also taught to bring my
>> elbows in). I know a lot of people that still ride this way and I'm not
>> asking anyone to change, but I just like the more upright riding position
>> that Rivendell has often supported.
>>
>> Like I said, I'm not a huge Crust guy. I just happened to see a picture
>> of that magic beard guy with a prototype of the 666mm bars and reached out
>> to them at the right time and got a set of the bars. It took a while to get
>> used to them (and the super short stem set up), and I still think they are
>> a bit too wide, but I have to say I have been really transformed by the
>> ability to ride drop bars while staying more in the position one is usually
>> in with a set of upright bars, and go just a little faster. This has been a
>> big deal for me. This was the reason I sold my Quickbeam and bought a new
>> Atlantis. I thought the Atlantis was stout enough to handle the wide bars,
>> and I love the way the Atlantis rides with the wide bars and huge 55m
>> Compass tires.
>>
>> I'll keep an eye on my stem/bar combo, but I can't imagine the 5cm
>> technomic is a risk in road and gravel trail riding. So maybe we need a
>> 55-58 Noodle AND a pretty 5cm cromo stem? :)
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Brynnar
>> Indy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 3:23:38 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 12:22:45 PM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Nitto tests bars and stems together and wants the bars to break before
>>>> the stem. The bars are already strong, and they've found that even 51s (we
>>>> had samples made) impose too much leverage on the stem. The workaround
>>>> might be to make stronger stems, but then you get into a whole escalating
>>>> mish-mash where one chases the other, and stems, which have forced
>>>> dimensions inherited down the line, and then all you can do is make it
>>>> steel.
>>>> One of the drawbacks of working with NITTO is accepting their
>>>> super-prudence in times like this.  It's like, also, when our 66cm Wavie
>>>> bars come in---we'll recommend them only with CrMo or other Nitto stems
>>>> intended for mtn bikes. Some will mount them on Tallux (road) stems, but we
>>>> will recommend something stronger. When NITTO hears "mountain bike riding"
>>>> they imagine the worst and stupidest. Personally, I don't think at all that
>>>> Crust is being IMprudent with the widies. It's a good company and they do
>>>> neat, good things!
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 1:55:10 PM UTC-7, ctifusion wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm sure the 666mm Crust bars are way too wide for most, but I love
>>>>> them. And they don't really make them anyway, I was just in the right 
>>>>> place
>>>>> when they brought out the one run. I keep waiting for someone to put a 
>>>>> wide
>>>>> drop bar into production.
>>>>>
>>>>> I think a 58 Noodle would b

Re: [RBW] Other annoying threads

2018-06-21 Thread hugh flynn
I hate long threads about shorts, short threads about long pants, and loose
threads in general.

Hugh “sewing discord” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 8:06 AM Eric Daume  wrote:

> I hate threads about building perfect cassette combinations. “Well, if I
> had a 13-15-18 it would be perfect, but I’m stuck with a 13-15-17 unless I
> order a loose cog from France...”.  Who the heck cares?
>
> Eric
> Who only cares about gearing if it’s a single speed.
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 20, 2018, Jim Bronson  wrote:
>
>> Since the non-political thread seems to be so irritating to people, what
>> other bike related topics do you find irritating?
>>
>> For me it's old parts that provide no real benefit over new parts, but
>> it's supposed to be awesome.  I mean sometimes the old stuff is great.  I
>> miss shiny silver parts.
>>
>> But the next person who tells me that a 7 speed freewheel is the bees
>> knees, well, they can bite me.
>>
>> signed
>> MOAR GEASR!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thanks Grant

2018-06-20 Thread hugh flynn
And I, in turn, hope this board and every aspect of all of our lives is
over run with the outrage that is appropriate and which spurs action until
this affront to both god and man is ended. This isn’t politics. This is
humanity pure and simple.

Hugh


On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 11:34 AM Christopher Murray <
chrispmurra...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I’m super-hoping this thread gets shut down- the sooner the better. This
> is obviously a political issue. Whatever your beliefs, aren’t there better
> places to discuss them? Call your representatives, write a letter, scream
> in the backyard, talk to a friend. Something and someplace other than here.
>
> Please for the sake of goodwill and sanity!
> Chris
>
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Re: [RBW] 650b vs 700c wide tite thoughts needed.

2018-06-20 Thread hugh flynn
The challenge here is that it’s not enough to simply compare tire widths if
the tires aren’t also of the same make. A Compass EL, for example, is going
to ride differently than anything with thicker sidewalls and flat
protection.

All things being equal (same bike with 650B and 700C wheels) if the tires
tested are different, the results won’t be particularly conclusive I don’t
think.

I’ve only been able to test this from the same tire perspective (compass EL
38s in 700c and 650b on different bikes plus a 700c to 650b conversion on a
bike that went from compass 28 to 38 in the process). My results suggest
that  the tires play a huge role in this effort as I’m equally happy on
bikes with wide supple tires regardless of wheel size. The ability to ride
fast supple tires means more to me than wheel size. However - my results
are anecdotal at best given that I was never able to establish a legitimate
control by riding both on the same exact bike.

Hugh “lab test” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 8:14 AM WETH  wrote:

> Dear Lum,
> I assume you are thinking of converting a bike from 700c to 650b.  I’ve
> converted two bikes: a riv road and Romulus.  I ride Fatty Rumpkins 650bx41
> on the Romulus.  Handling feels more stable and the wider tires make for a
> more comfortable ride.  In terms of safety, I compensated for lower bottom
> bracket height by changing my crank arm length from 170 to 165.  I liked
> the feel of 165 so much I changed to that crank length on my Cheviot too.
> Finally don’t forget you will likely need to switch brakes if your bike
> uses center/side pulls.
> Happy to answer other questions.
> Erl
>
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Re: [RBW] Thanks Grant

2018-06-19 Thread hugh flynn
Are basic decency and human dignity really a political position?

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 11:52 PM Mattt  wrote:

> Please do not introduce political non “bike” talk on the board.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-06-19 Thread hugh flynn
That right there is the key here. I've ridden on Riv-sized larger bikes for
20+ years now and I didn't trust my gut when looking through the charts.

I'd have been better off if I trusted my gut feel from the outset.

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 11:18 PM adam leibow  wrote:

> hugh, i did the same exact thing when choosing my canti sam size. roman
> has the same-ish pbh as me and rides a 55 sam, so i test rode the 55 demo
> (and ive ridden his 55 w drops before), but it just felt small. i knew i
> wanted the 58 fit, & i'm glad i trusted my gut, esp. with sweep back bars.
> feels good
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M2itzg8r2ak/Wyh11oVVJ-I/BPE/-hw5gyYRLzghP1_5v6CXechRZ-kywD8wwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6549%2B%25281%2529.JPG>
>
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 8:05:09 AM UTC-7, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>
>> It all started with a 55 Appaloosa which, with my 75.5 cm saddle height
>> was the right fit for me by the numbers on the Riv sizing charts. I built
>> it up as a for touring with Noodle bars and it was a blast to ride over the
>> mixed terrain rides I favor, and was comfortable for miles upon miles.
>>
>> The problem? If *felt* small. I don’t mean that it was too small (saddle
>> height and reach to bars was the same as on my other bikes), it just felt
>> small. With the sloping tube it felt like the top tube was too far away and
>> with the 71 degree headtube, the steerer felt too close (needed a 120mm
>> stem to get the reach right). Something about the overall visual ballance
>> of it all wasn’t quite right for me. It sounds frivolous when I say it out
>> loud, but it is what it is man. I’m fussy.
>>
>> So, a month or so after building up the 55, I ordered a 58. Even by Riv
>> sizing recommendations my frame is too big, but it all feels, looks, and
>> rides perfectly   for me now.
>>
>> Now I have to decide whether to sell or rebuild the 55 with a set of
>> bullmoose bars and fatter knobbies (which I think would be massively fun).
>>
>> Haven’t added racks and such, but I’ll get around to that.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hugh “big bike” Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>> --
>> Hugh Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-06-17 Thread hugh flynn
Ahh the joys of mail order.

I will note, that Rivendell does have a solid return/exchange policy, so i
probably could have attempted an exchange. However, I was the one who
selected the 55 based on my interpretation of the posted geometry charts
and the 55 did actually fit. My reasons for wanting the 58 were partially
visual and based on the fact that my build is more “road” specific than the
stated off road design for the bike. I should have taken that into account
when making my initial sizing estimate.

There are worse things than having two Appaloosas to work with :-)

Hugh

On Sun, Jun 17, 2018 at 8:28 AM Dave Small 
wrote:

> I've had a similar experience but in reverse.  In 2012 I bought a 60cm
> first-run Sam Hillborne that on paper fit me.  My 88cm PBH was at the
> bottom of the recommended range, but it was in the range.  My PBH was also
> at the *top* of the recommended range on the 56cm model.  I could have
> gone with either one but knew that Riv espoused going with the biggest
> frame that'll fit, and took their recommendation.  I liked the bike but
> couldn't get myself to love it---it felt a little too big.
>
> That presented a quandary for me:  Was it the model, the size, or the "Riv
> ride" in general that I didn't love?  I eliminated the "Riv ride" as a
> problem by buying a used Homer Hilsen on ebay; after just one 35-mile ride
> I determined that if I'm ever forced to reduce my stable to one bike, the
> Homer is a strong candidate to be that one.  So it was down to model and
> size as the two remaining variables.  When Riv brought out their 58cm
> single-top-tube version a few years ago, I was smack in the middle of the
> PBH range and bought a complete bike.  I loved it immediately.
>
> The size was the issue.  The only difference was 2cm in sizing and a
> couple of minor tweaks to the geometry (front/center had become shorter, I
> think).  The contact points on the two builds were spaced about the same,
> but the 60cm Sam just *felt* a little too big while the 58cm Sam felt
> perfect.  I now don't buy Riv models for which I'm at the edges of 2
> overlapping ranges, and instead consider only those for which that I'm
> firmly planted in the middle of a range.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-06-17 Thread hugh flynn
Thank you, and yeah, that blue is something.

My ‘99 Heron Road is silver, so I thought I’d try something else for the
Joe. Honestly, I wasn’t crazy about going with the blue at first...then I
saw it in person. It’s a liquid silver blue that just brings joy.

Hugh


On Sun, Jun 17, 2018 at 1:21 AM Tim O. (Portland, OR) <
timothycharles...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I love the look of both bikes! That blue!
>
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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

2018-06-16 Thread hugh flynn
Yeah, a shorter stem is needed. It’s probably 1 cm too long for me at the
moment (its a 110 Nitto), but that’s manageable under 50 miles or so. The
saddle might be at 76cm (measured from the B.B.) but I’d notice it if it
were much higher than that. Still some futzing to be done to be sure, but
at least I know I’m in the right range on the 58 now so that’s a good
thing.

Hugh


On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 11:45 AM iamkeith  wrote:

> That's a 75.5cm saddle height?  Sure looks good, if not slightly high, to
> me.  Shorter stem might look better and would also allow it to be higher
> but, if this one fits, it's great.  Nice call.
>
> I've struggled with this exact same conundrum since the shift to expanded
> sizing.  I wish I'd have gotten one of the first-run 58 butterscotch.
>
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Re: [RBW] Riv basket nets hook source?

2018-06-12 Thread hugh flynn
Those particular hooks, no, but if you search for “bungee plastic hooks”
you’ll find quite a few others to choose from.

I make my own bungee cords and nets with materials I can grab at my LMS
(local marine shop), and they usually have a pretty good bungee hook
collection as well.

Hugh “sproing” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 5:05 PM Edwin W  wrote:

> I like Rivendell's basket nets.
> I remember when they brought them out they specifically commented on the
> quality of the hooks. And they are high quality.
> I was glad to hear on their Blahg yesterday that a shipment of blue nets
> is coming. I will get one.
> I think they come with four hooks and you can zip tie the net to your
> basket and have a few extra, but for some reason I am down to two and need
> a few more.
>
> What I am asking is: has anyone found a source for hooks like that for
> when you need more? "Plastic hooks" is an impossible search term.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Edwin
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

2018-06-12 Thread hugh flynn
It’s a fair point to be sure, but is separate from the question I asked.

To put a somewhat finer point on it, my comment did not relate to weight in
any way. I referenced the impact of forcing thicker tubes than might
otherwise be spec’d in order to accommodate certain brakes that could alter
the way the bike rides. Weight is not a factor in that point.

I’m calling myself still ideologically pure :-)

Hugh “flex” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 12:52 PM Justin, Oakland 
wrote:

> I think there’s a certain irony in lovers of modern Rivendell designs
> being worried about the extra weight of tubes needed to support having disc
> brakes.
>
> -J
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

2018-06-12 Thread hugh flynn
Not being a disk user, I may lack crucial experience required to
understand, but since one has to use heavier tubing than one might
otherwise want in order to resist the hub area forces imparted by disks -
is it really THAT contrary to let the ride quality that results from tubing
choices take priority over brake choice? Now, if it were a matter of
selecting brakes that don’t work over those that do, that would be a
different matter, but the suggestion that Cantis and v-brakes don’t work is
silly. They do, they really do, and they don’t bring the frame
design/construction costs that disks do.

All disclaimers states above apply of course, but this strikes me as a non
issue.

Hugh “just stop” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 8:40 AM Eric Daume  wrote:

> What rims would you use for a non disc plus bike? A non-disc plus bike
> seems like going against the crowd just for the sake of being different,
> not for any customer merit.
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, iamkeith  wrote:
>
>> ? Not sure why anyone would think plus tires are off the table.  I've
>> used cantis with 3.8" tires on 65mm rims and they were perfectly adequate.
>>
>> All 2nd hand accounts we've heard of conversations with
>> insiders/employees seem to suggest that a plus sized project is a
>> possibility, even if not this one.
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] When bad fasteners happen to good bikes

2018-06-07 Thread hugh flynn
E-gads man. There aughta be a law against that sort of butchery!

While many of the pearl-clutchers among us (and make no mistake, I can be a
bag-matching pearl-clutcher of the 1st order), reacted with abject horror
to zip ties for fender and rack attachment, this sort of “innovation” is
worse than carbon fiber brake cables.

The horror, the horror!

Is that a custom painted screw, or an off the shelf green ground wire?

Hugh “never in all my days” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 3:14 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Great story, and well written, btw. The message is, in short: f it doesn't
> fit, you're not forcing it hard enough.
>
> Sorry, no story of my own comes to mind -- a mind fried by a particularly
> obtuse resume.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 11:17 PM, LeRoy  wrote:
>
>> The trail that recently led me to this group began when I was Googling
>> information on repairing buggered braze-on threads. A post here entitled 
>> *Stripped
>> CLEM dropout braze-on* was absolutely spot-on. My problem was stripped
>> threads on a couple of braze-on fittings on the rear drop out of my
>> new-to-me Clem Smith Jr. This couldn't have been a better match; the
>> collected wisdom in that post exactly addressed my questions and concerns.
>> So, of course, I needed to join up.
>>
>> This preamble circles back to the point I suggest in the subject line: *When
>> bad fasteners happen to good bikes*.
>>
>> While many on this list have owned their bikes since new, others have
>> acquired them second- or third-hand, or some further multiple. Bikes that
>> have passed through numerous sets of hands often suffer from a lesser level
>> of care and feeding than a good bike deserves. What I came across on my
>> third-hand Clem was not just a couple stripped threads -- I've committed
>> that crime myself -- but true fastener innovation.
>>
>> Those of us whose thinking stays within the box typically use an M6
>> fastener in an M6 threaded hole. It seems to work well enough. But
>> innovative thinkers might consider the use of a vibration-resistant,
>> serrated-flange, self-piercing sheet metal screw in that M6 threaded
>> braze-on. While not an obvious solution, the advantage of this butchery is
>> two-fold. The integrated serrated flange ideally secures the looped wire
>> rod of the rear fender stay, while the self-piercing capability of the
>> thread cuts its own path in the braze-on regardless of preexisting M6x1.0
>> threads. Genius! This particular application deserves bonus points because
>> the perpetrator went so far as to paint the offending fastener in a very
>> close match to the Clem's green frame. It's not without a certain artistry.
>>
>> Apart from some understandable whining, my purpose in bringing up this
>> topic is to see what kinds of creative destruction others have experienced.
>> I'm throwing down the gauntlet. Can you top this?
>>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

2018-06-02 Thread hugh flynn
Option #3

Consider the Nitto big front rack (32F I think). Sure, it’s not a low
rider, and sure it won’t work with the top rack you currently have, but I
believe it will mount to the mid fork braze-ons and it’s a great freakin’
rack for loaded touring. Looking forward to adding mine to my Joe shortly.

Hugh “Sure, but...” Flynn
Newburyport, MA.




On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 7:11 PM Kainalu V.  wrote:

> Option #2- strip and braze (then paint?/wax?/rust)
> Then braise, eat, and ride away into the sunset...
> -Kai
> BKNY
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays

2018-05-29 Thread hugh flynn
I’m still interested in the answers to “how long is too long?” and “what
are the drawbacks to long, as long as it’s not too long?”

My recent Appaloosa experience only confirms (for me at least) that Riv
long doesn’t seem to be too long.

Hugh “long in the tooth” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 7:40 PM Metin Uz  wrote:

> One thing to note is that Jobst rode a very large frame, 64cm or maybe
> taller. So shorter chainstays had him sitting over the rear wheel. We all
> experience our own reality, and generalize from there. I remember Brian
> Baylis claiming that Colnago's rode significantly better than other Italian
> frames in 50cm or smaller sizes. Perhaps most designs were (are) based on
> 56cm, than extrapolated.
>
> --Metin
>
>
> On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 8:53:46 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>> Further comments by Jobst on chainstay length can be found here:
>>
>> http://yarchive.net/bike/frame_dimensions.html
>> http://yarchive.net/bike/short_chainstays.html
>>
>> A couple of good quotes:
>>
>> For road bikes in the range that is available, the longer the
>>> chainstays the better the bike handles in all but 10mph turns.
>>>
>>>
>> and:
>>
>> Chainstay length is primarily a comfort effect of sitting directly
>>> over the rear wheel or not. Secondarily, a short wheelbase makes
>>> weight transfer on braking less advantageous and least of all steering
>>> motions more disruptive to straight line riding.
>>
>>
>> In the frame dimensions thread Jobst also says that when he was speccing
>> his custom frames, he would basically have the builders (Tom Ritchey and
>> Peter Johnson) leave the chainstays as long as possible, which I would
>> guess put them somewhere around 45cm or more, so long for a traditional
>> road or touring bike but not into the territory that Grant has pioneered,
>> mainly because I don't think chainstays that long were available from tube
>> manufacturers.  Pictures of his Peter Johnson show that there was clearly
>> more than adequate space behind the seat tube for a frame pump:
>>
>> http://bikecult.com/works/archive/04bicycles/pjohnsonJB04.html
>>
>> I wonder what Jobst would have made of Grant's recent designs.
>>
>> I ride my long chainstay bike (Clem) mainly as a MTB and I would say all
>> of this holds true for off-road riding as well, where you are far more
>> likely to encounter grades of 10% or more, and the bikes ability to keep
>> the front wheel down while going up without significant body english feels
>> like a real boon.  On the way down, it feels stable and like it has a huge
>> "sweet spot" where I am well balanced between the wheels.
>>
>> On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 7:09:16 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>>>
>>> I was daydreaming about a bike project and looking for information about
>>> some old IGHs this memorial day morning, and stumbled on a google group
>>> thread from 1991 in which Jobst Brandt participated.  I thought this
>>> off-topic comment about chainstay length was interesting.  Echoes
>>> everything Rivendell (or vice versa, given the chronology), but it is the
>>> first time I've heard the 'drafting' component of the racer-driven designs
>>> explained.
>>>
>>> jobst_b...@hp1900.desk.hp.com
>>>
>>> K C- writes:
>>>
>>> > Try as I might, I just cannot for the life of me figure out how short
>>> > chainstays are going to help climbing. Someone enlighten me before I
>>> go
>>> > nuts with this one!!
>>>
>>> That's simple.  Short chainstays help you do wheelies if the hill gets
>>> steep.  It's this kind of thinking that brought us bike with so little
>>> tire clearance that a one inch cross section damn near scrapes the fork
>>> crown and requires letting the air out of the rear tire for removal.
>>>
>>> I think someone noticed that the fastest road bikes are the ones
>>> ridden by TTT riders.  These bikes are the shortest road bikes and
>>> therefore, short bikes are fast.  The trouble is, they are short to
>>> allow four riders to draft as close together as possible, not because
>>> a short bike is inherently fast.  This concept seems to have escaped
>>> the advocates of short bikes.  They use terms like " they're
>>> rsponsive" amd "accelerate quickly".  What can you say to such a
>>> claim?  It is so patently unfounded that a response is difficult to
>>> construct without being argumetative without just playing stu

Re: [RBW] Jobst on short chainstays

2018-05-28 Thread hugh flynn
I picked up a gloriously long-stayed  Appalloosa around the time the
new Atlantis was announced (with requisite hew and cry over its new long
stays), and can only comment that I still don’t get the objections. I’m no
faster or slower on the Appa than on any other bike I own (climbing or
otherwise), but can attest that I massively enjoy steep on and off-road
descents on this Cadillac of a ride more than on any of my shorter stayed
bikes.

Not suggesting it’s a massive night and day difference by any means, just
that I FEEL like the Appaloosa is somewhat more shure-footed. If that has
nothing to do with the long stays, well, at least I can report that I have
yet to find anything to be unhappy about with the bike (and much to be VERY
happy about).

Hugh “long stays seem nice so far” Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 10:09 AM iamkeith <keithhar...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was daydreaming about a bike project and looking for information about
> some old IGHs this memorial day morning, and stumbled on a google group
> thread from 1991 in which Jobst Brandt participated.  I thought this
> off-topic comment about chainstay length was interesting.  Echoes
> everything Rivendell (or vice versa, given the chronology), but it is the
> first time I've heard the 'drafting' component of the racer-driven designs
> explained.
>
> jobst_b...@hp1900.desk.hp.com
>
> K C- writes:
>
> > Try as I might, I just cannot for the life of me figure out how short
> > chainstays are going to help climbing. Someone enlighten me before I go
> > nuts with this one!!
>
> That's simple.  Short chainstays help you do wheelies if the hill gets
> steep.  It's this kind of thinking that brought us bike with so little
> tire clearance that a one inch cross section damn near scrapes the fork
> crown and requires letting the air out of the rear tire for removal.
>
> I think someone noticed that the fastest road bikes are the ones
> ridden by TTT riders.  These bikes are the shortest road bikes and
> therefore, short bikes are fast.  The trouble is, they are short to
> allow four riders to draft as close together as possible, not because
> a short bike is inherently fast.  This concept seems to have escaped
> the advocates of short bikes.  They use terms like " they're
> rsponsive" amd "accelerate quickly".  What can you say to such a
> claim?  It is so patently unfounded that a response is difficult to
> construct without being argumetative without just playing stupid.
>
> Bicycle lore is great, and shave those legs before climbing hills.
>
> jobst_...@hplabs.hp.com
>
>
> R.I.P., Jobst.
>
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Re: [RBW] appaloosa tire fit

2018-05-25 Thread hugh flynn
I’m not going to be much more helpful here, but if you have a set of
calipers you could measure the width of the fron tire and just slip the
caliper over the current rear in place to see how the clearance looks at
the stays.

My hunch though is that if the front fits, the rear probably will too.

Hugh “not all that helpful” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 8:02 PM Deacon Patrick <lamontg...@mac.com> wrote:

> The good news is your front tire and your bike already know. Grin.
>
> 1. remove front tire.
> 2. mount tire to rear rim.
>
> The answer will be clear. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Coffee Making Question

2018-05-25 Thread hugh flynn
I’m much more of a hethen than most here. Grind at home, msr stove, tin cup
for boiling water, collapsible cone, and pour over into a lightweight mug.

Good enough.

Hugh “slacker” Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 5:10 PM Garth <garth...@gmail.com> wrote:

> While I don't drink n drive with coffee , I do like to make it outside at
> home with single burner propane stove and a Bialetti Moka pot.  Nice darky
> dark French Roasted coffee ground with a Lido grinder by Orphan Espresso.
> Not for portable use as it weighs something like 2-1/4 pounds, yes pounds.
> It's my morning pumping iron routine ;-)
>
> Everything tastes different cooked outside .
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Frustrated by RBW lack of inventory

2018-04-26 Thread hugh flynn
In an age of instant gratification fed by  federated clearing houses of
on-line retail excess, i think it’s perfectly fine wait for things from
time to time.

Sure, I love being able to get what I want when I want it - but that’s an
unreasonable and unsustainable expectation for ALL things at ALL times.
There are 1000 sellers able to provide cables, housing, and derailers
through Amazon (and now Walmart on-line sales) - but those are commodity
goods that can be provided by a countless number of sellers. I never know
if Seller A is out of something I want, because sellers B through Z are
always there to provide what I want when A can’t. That’s great, but it’s a
model that only works for readily available, mass-produced, commodities.

Once you step out of the high volume  commodity market, expectations of
instant gratification must contend with the realities of small batch
production, raw material availability, suppliers who freak out and run away
to Cabo when a big order is due, and the never ending small-business cash
flow/inventory dance of the macabre.

Expectations must be adjusted when one wants what Amazon doesn’t provide.

Hugh “delayed gratification ain’t all bad” Flynn



On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 6:49 PM Grant Petersen <grant6...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If at first you don't succeed, etc. It's an ongoing challenge, no doubt,
> but always a worthy one.
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 2:43 PM, John Hawrylak <john.hawry...@verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Grant's theme of "duplication" was stated about 5 to 6 years ago, but I
>> did not notice a large reduction.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Frustrated by RBW lack of inventory

2018-04-26 Thread hugh flynn
It’s a bit of a catch 22 I would imagine.

Inventory requires capital, and capital is generated by moving inventory.
What's a small business to do?


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:03 AM 'Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Yeah, me too.
>
> I responded to their request to 'please buy something to save the
> company'.  Everything (*I sorta wanted*) was out of stock.  I check
> weekly, but some stuff has been out of stock forever.
> Bike packing has become huge. I would think that some Rivendell rackless
> bikepacking bags would sell well, as well as a plus tired Hunqa. Creativity
> in their stock is needed. Needs a refresh.
>
> Clayton
> #DirtDanceDesigns
>
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Re: [RBW] WTB: Nitto Quill Stem 70mm 26.0

2018-04-24 Thread hugh flynn
I’ve done exactly that to custom fit stems in my wife’s 43cm terry.

You just have to have a bolt of the right length and it’s an easy task.


On Tue, Apr 24, 2018 at 7:04 AM Austin B. <austin.bis...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ooo, I never thought to cut it down. That’d potentially be an easy DIY
> project. Will be researching a bit on that.
>
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Re: [RBW] Oot de Fire, Intwa de Snoo

2018-04-21 Thread hugh flynn
You are having way too much fun.

Keep it up!
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Re: [RBW] Heine Heron, Petersen Heron, and other Heron models?

2016-11-06 Thread hugh flynn
A few shots of an original Heron/Waterford road model. Love this bike.


https://flickr.com/photos/108619385@N05/sets/72157644631896944


Hugh


On Saturday, November 5, 2016, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good to know that Heron carries on. Their models sound interesting.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 5, 2016 at 12:21 PM, Garth <garth...@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','garth...@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
>>
>> Heron Bikes, history etc. and more etc. 
>> http://www.heronbicycles.com/faq.html
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, November 5, 2016 at 1:15:39 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> The "Heron" name pops up from time to time here and it sounds like there
>>> were even more types of Herons made, so it gets confusing which bike model
>>> is actually being talked about.
>>>
>>> Also, it sounds like Heron is a bike company in itself and may have
>>> their own designed models.
>>>
>>> Any info would be educational, thanks.
>>>
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>
>
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> **
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>
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>
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>
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Re: [RBW] An even fatter (F)atlantis!

2015-04-21 Thread hugh flynn
My experience on this front is limited to touring on a Surly LHT which
mimics the Atlantis geometry in many regards. The Atlantis is said to have
been the inspiration for the LHT, so I don't think my observations will be
too off topic.

That having been said - while I realize that all Riv (and Riv
inspiredgeometries), can be described as rear biased, I find that my LHT
does quite well with front loads only - even on steep climbs. I tend to
load my front panniers first and put the lighter stuff like sleep pad and
sleeping bag) on the back. There's definately a balance that needs to be
struck with full loads, but I do my s240's with a front loaded bias and
have encountered very little front end instability when doing so.

Give it a try!

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Tuesday, April 21, 2015, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'd like to hear more about this too -- that is, to be clear, about the
 tendency of bikes to wander badly when climbing. I found the Sam Hillborne
 in particular to be very liable to this with a rear load, even compared to
 the 4 other Rivs I've owned. I'm very surprised at the number of Rivendell
 models pictured with huge baskets on the front. Does the front weight
 actually help the wandering? If I had put weight on the Sam Hill in front
 low riders, would things have been better? (I thought of doing this only
 after I sold the bike.)

 I've carried up to ~5 lb on my errand custom on a TA rack in front, and
 handling has been OK but I could feel it trying to take control of the
 front end. But that weight sat above the front fender.

 On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Dave C david.charles.carr...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','david.charles.carr...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Well, to be clear I don't have any weight on the rack right now. What I
 am referring to is the tendency of some bikes on ascents to have the wheel
 wander rather than maintain a straight line. One then makes minute steering
 corrections to counter this. While I have zero experiences with bikes with
 low trail front end geometry, I have read people stating that one advantage
 of such frames is that they require less effort to remain straight while
 climbing (especially while tired). Given that I live in the mountains,
 every ride involves multiple climbs and I have been thinking about it
 lately.
 This article calls it weaving as a result of high wheel flop.

 http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/20140601_MechanicalAdvantageTrail_Heine.pdf

 So I was wondering if the weight when placed on the small front rack
 would affect this tendency or be unnoticed.

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Re: [RBW] Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

2014-12-29 Thread hugh flynn
I'll throw my hat in the ring as a DT shifter proponent. I have bikes with
both, and have never really felt any added security from the keeps your
hands on the bars aspect of bar end shifters. I find that I have a greater
tendency to nudge my bats slightly when shifing - especially with upshifts.
I'm neither a young nor small person (pushing 50 with 60 cm frames), and
have never found the reach to my down tube shifters to be a big deal.
Frankly, DT's just feel more natural to me.

All that having been said, I do prefer bar end shifters with M-bars...but
only slightly.

For the record, my first road bike came with Campy Brifters. I came to both
down tube and bar end shifters as an adult in the modern (8 speed and
after) age.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Saturday, December 20, 2014, Johan Larsson seven.nau...@gmail.com
wrote:

 On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 6:09:21 AM UTC+1, lungimsam wrote:

 If I love friction  bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting
 just as easy and enjoyable?

 Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult
 and looks like there's a big potential for knees banging into forearms
 while pedalling and reaching down to shift  at same time.

 What's your experience been with DT shifting?



 I like both bar-end and DT shifters and have bikes with both systems. No
 problems switching between bikes with different types. I'm 6'2 and have
 bikes between 63-66 cm, and there's no issues reaching down to DT shifters
 on these bikes, not with drop bars at least. With bikes I'm sitting upright
 on, I only use MTB shifters or stem-mounted shifters.

 What I appreciate with DT shifters is their simplicity. They work for all
 road use. Bar-end shifters are better when you don't want to let go off the
 handlebar, if you ride slippery gravel roads or off-road - trails, single
 track etc.

 Johan Larsson,
 Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-24 Thread Hugh Flynn

On Jul 24, 2014, at 9:14 AM, Matthew J wrote:

 I suppose it is possible Google and Apple cloud services crash into 
 bankruptcy in my lifetime, but highly unlikely.  In fact if they do, I 
 suspect the overall situation will make looking up old bicycle articles among 
 the least of my concerns.

You hush your mouth sir! Don't even suggest such a thing. 

I can think of no GREATER concern than looking up old bicycle articles. 
Whatever impact the implosion of Google/Apple might have on my livelihood pales 
in comparison to the potential loss of that steady drip of, and ready access 
to,  bicycle information that I require to maintain my sanity. 

Hugh don't say such things, you'll give me the vapors Flynn
Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] My Sam Hillborne is literally BOMBPROOF

2014-07-22 Thread Hugh Flynn
Perhaps a Legolas would have been a better choice given the present situation...

That's some scary stuff man. Certainly puts the hazards of my daily commute in 
perspective. 

Stay well, and here's wishing for a peaceful resolution for everyone in the 
region as soon as possible. This has gone on more than long enough already.

Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA




On Jul 22, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:

 4 rocket attacks so far while I've been riding. Sirens go off, 90 seconds 
 where I am to find cover. Much less time farther south. Then lie on your 
 belly or squat againts a wall for 10 minutes until the shrapnel settles.
 So far not even a scratch. Is it the robust tubing or the Marathon Supremes 
 I've got mounted?
  
 Seriously, though, it's getting pretty scary over here. A rocket exploded 
 less than half a mile from my apartment this morning. Destroyed someone's 
 house.
  
 OT responses by PM only please. This isn't the place.  Jim - feel free to 
 delete this if it gets political.
  
 Jay
 
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Re: [RBW] Overheard at a bike shop

2014-06-30 Thread Hugh Flynn
There can be quite a bit of difference between the way the shop owner 
(presumably someone who has spent some time in the industry) might approach a 
customer and the way a 20 year old bike-fan turned shop employee might approach 
that same customer. This is where the selling of rad equipment to paunchy 
middle-aged folks becomes an issue for me. While I'll admit to feeling some 
sense of obligation to your average paunchy middle-aged human interested in 
getting into cycling, I have very little sense of obligation to 20-something 
shop kids who think rad = right for all cyclists.

I rarely (if ever) stick my nose in to shop conversations that don't involve 
me, but I might if I were to encounter some of the situations that have been 
described in this thread. Then again, some customers are delusional jerks who 
deserve to be dressed up like drunk clowns, doubled-over, and clipped onto the 
latest offering from Calfree. I certainly wouldn't try to stop that from 
happening if that's what the customer wants or deserves. 

Hugh Options and choices are good for consumers, right? Flynn
Newburyport, MA



On Jun 30, 2014, at 3:31 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:

 For the record, the incident I related involved a case where the buyer, had 
 he bought, would have spent money on something ill fitting, therefore a waste 
 of money to that extent. This was not a matter of taste. One may feel 
 obliged to remain silent even in such a case, but I did not.
 
 
 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Brewster Fong bfd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 On Monday, June 30, 2014 10:00:05 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
 
 I agree Bobby ,
 
   I'm all for the support of a LBS.  Yet am I based on own prejudices , going 
 to interfere with their business ?   This seems hypocritical .  Yes, saying 
 my bike or riding my-way-is-thee-way is my own pre-judging my-way-is-thee-way 
 as thee-best-way.
  
 Agree, a shop is in the business of selling bikes. If it is that narrow 
 minded to put on a buyer on the wrong bike, then I doubt that bike shop is 
 going to be in business for very long. My LBS has been around since 1975. The 
 owner is one of the best fitters in the SF Bay Area. But he sells all types 
 of bikes. He has the latest carbon Time, Looks, Bianchis and Giants. He also 
 sells the new Albion and other steel bikes from custom (formerly US 
 distributor for Ron Cooper to Della Santa to the latest from the new Masi, 
 Soma and Waterford).  He also has a wall full of Colnagos including steel and 
 carbon.
  
 But, the key is to put you on the type of bike that you will ride! If it 
 means putting you the latest 14lb carbon wonder bike with your bar dropped 6 
 inches below the saddle and 11-23 11speed cassette, done. If you want a steel 
 bike with bars higher than your saddle and 13-34 gearing with a triple, done! 
  If you're a fat guy, like me (e.g., 200lb) and want carbon, no problem. But 
 he's give you a compact crank (50/34) and low gearing (11-28; 12-30)  to help 
 you get up the hill. He will also raise dat bar when needed!  Whatever 
 works to get you on the road and enjoying your bike!  Good Luck!
 
 Is it really ?  Compared to who ?  My choices work for me, if someone wishes 
 to emulate that in some way, great. If not, great .
 
 Would I like if I had business selling bikes, have customers discouraging 
 potential customers from buying my bikes ? . .  . I think not ! 
 
 There are many facets to the Golden Rule ! The shop owner qualifies as 
 someone whom I wish well for also , not just a customer I think is being 
 taken advantage of. Vengeance and self-righteousness can be very subtle , 
 like a calm sea masking the tsumani within it. 
 
 All THAT said . ..  lol .  . .  there is no absolute right or wrong answer, 
 just infinite ways of answering .  This, is Life. 
 
 
 
 On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:42:05 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:Caveat 
 emptor... I personally wouldn't interfere with a conversation between a bike 
 shop employee and a potential customer, even if I'm cringing (unless 
 explicitly asked for my opinion)... It's entirely the choice of the buyer to 
 seek advice from the bike shop and for the buyer to decide based on whatever 
 he/she feels is right for them (whether right or wrong in my mind). It's not 
 my place to intercede.
 
 While I gain personal satisfaction knowing I have 'converted' several 
 people's thinking towards the Rivish bikestyle, I try not to impose my 
 beliefs too strongly, I simply demonstrate by example.  Those who scoff at my 
 bike preferences (as being different from their own), well that's entirely 
 their choice, and more power to them.  I have a good friend who rides a 
 beautiful Dario Pegoretti road bike (and only rarely, unfortunately), and 
 every time I show him a new bike I'm working on, the first things he ALWAYS 
 does is lift it and shake his head. (In my mind he just doesn't get it, 
 whereas I'm sure he thinks I'm nuts)... Suum cuique...
 
 BB
 
 
 
 -- 
 You received this 

Re: [RBW] Overheard at a bike shop

2014-06-30 Thread hugh flynn
In this case, rad was intended to imply 'whatever happens to be new and
exciting to the kids today.'  In my experience that tends to be whatever
race-inspired, low spoke, 47-speed, electronic thing happens to be on the
cover of the most recent issue of Bicycling!

Hugh painting with a brush so broad it only takes one stroke Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Monday, June 30, 2014, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 What do you mean by rad equipment?  Just that's it's super cool or is
 there something in particular about rad like a brand name using the term?

 Is the slang term rad back in style now?  If so where I have I been?
 (out riding my bike probably).


 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 2:49 PM, Hugh Flynn hugfly...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','hugfly...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 There can be quite a bit of difference between the way the shop owner
 (presumably someone who has spent some time in the industry) might approach
 a customer and the way a 20 year old bike-fan turned shop employee might
 approach that same customer. This is where the selling of rad equipment to
 paunchy middle-aged folks becomes an issue for me. While I'll admit to
 feeling some sense of obligation to your average paunchy middle-aged human
 interested in getting into cycling, I have very little sense of obligation
 to 20-something shop kids who think rad = right for all cyclists.

 I rarely (if ever) stick my nose in to shop conversations that don't
 involve me, but I might if I were to encounter some of the situations that
 have been described in this thread. Then again, some customers are
 delusional jerks who deserve to be dressed up like drunk clowns,
 doubled-over, and clipped onto the latest offering from Calfree. I
 certainly wouldn't try to stop that from happening if that's what the
 customer wants or deserves.

 Hugh Options and choices are good for consumers, right? Flynn
 Newburyport, MA



 On Jun 30, 2014, at 3:31 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:

 For the record, the incident I related involved a case where the buyer,
 had he bought, would have spent money on something ill fitting, therefore a
 waste of money to that extent. This was not a matter of taste. One may
 feel obliged to remain silent even in such a case, but I did not.


 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Brewster Fong bfd...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','bfd...@gmail.com'); wrote:


 On Monday, June 30, 2014 10:00:05 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:


 I agree Bobby ,

   I'm all for the support of a LBS.  Yet am I based on own prejudices ,
 going to interfere with their business ?   This seems hypocritical .  Yes,
 saying my bike or riding my-way-is-thee-way is my own pre-judging
 my-way-is-thee-way as thee-best-way.


 Agree, a shop is in the business of selling bikes. If it is that narrow
 minded to put on a buyer on the wrong bike, then I doubt that bike shop is
 going to be in business for very long. My LBS has been around since
 1975. The owner is one of the best fitters in the SF Bay Area. But he sells
 all types of bikes. He has the latest carbon Time, Looks, Bianchis and
 Giants. He also sells the new Albion and other steel bikes from
 custom (formerly US distributor for Ron Cooper to Della Santa to the latest
 from the new Masi, Soma and Waterford).  He also has a wall full of
 Colnagos including steel and carbon.

 But, the key is to put you on the type of bike that you will ride! If it
 means putting you the latest 14lb carbon wonder bike with your bar dropped
 6 inches below the saddle and 11-23 11speed cassette, done. If you want a
 steel bike with bars higher than your saddle and 13-34 gearing with a
 triple, done!  If you're a fat guy, like me (e.g., 200lb) and want carbon,
 no problem. But he's give you a compact crank (50/34) and low gearing
 (11-28; 12-30)  to help you get up the hill. He will also raise dat bar
 when needed!  Whatever works to get you on the road and enjoying your bike!
  Good Luck!


 Is it really ?  Compared to who ?  My choices work for me, if someone
 wishes to emulate that in some way, great. If not, great .

 Would I like if I had business selling bikes, have customers
 discouraging potential customers from buying my bikes ? . .  . I think not
 !


 There are many facets to the Golden Rule ! The shop owner qualifies as
 someone whom I wish well for also , not just a customer I think is being
 taken advantage of. Vengeance and self-righteousness can be very subtle ,
 like a calm sea masking the tsumani within it.

 All THAT said . ..  lol .  . .  there is no absolute right or wrong
 answer, just infinite ways of answering .  This, is Life.



 On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:42:05 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB
 wrote:Caveat emptor... I personally wouldn't interfere with a conversation
 between a bike shop employee and a potential customer, even if I'm cringing
 (unless explicitly asked for my opinion)... It's entirely the choice of the
 buyer to seek advice from the bike shop and for the buyer to decide based
 on whatever

Re: [RBW] Any recommendations on a Atlantis wannabe?

2014-06-25 Thread Hugh Flynn
I suspect the true Atlantis sweet-spot is somewhere in between the two. I 
believe the LHT is a stouter build than an Atlantis, while the Cross Check is 
likely lighter/quicker/more agile in some regards. 

Has anyone ridden a Velo Orange Campeur? I'm not sure how that might compare, 
but I suspect it might be somewhat less sherman tank like than an LHT. 

Hugh Not sure Flynn
Newburyport, MA




On Jun 25, 2014, at 11:54 AM, 'Rick' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:

 I second the Long Haul Trucker recommendation, and would add the Cross Check 
 as another possible Surly option. 
  
 
 On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 10:48:25 AM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
 I own an Atlantis and it has been my favorite bike, ever. I bought the frame 
 new in '99 or so and it has been my main transportation since then. I love 
 the fit and am trying to find an inexpensive frame, such as an old chromoly 
 Mt. Bike frame, that has close to the same geometry for my girlfriend. I am 
 hoping the tribe has some suggestions?
 
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Re: [RBW] Riv Owner Qualifications

2014-06-24 Thread Hugh Flynn
This isn't my list, so my thoughts on the matter are to be taken with the 
appropriate grain of salt, but I'd be inclined to say that interest in the 
topics discussed on the RBWOB list is probably all that's required to 
participate. The conversation revolves around Rivendell Bicycles, bicycle 
components, and riding in the Riv-way, but I have never encountered any form of 
exclusivity from participants with regard to the particular bicycles posters 
are seen standing near or riding. 

I'd say that being willing to just ride should be good enough. That's not an 
official response of course, but it's one that aims towards the sort of 
inclusion that I've always felt Grant and Co. like to foster. 

Hugh all together now Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Jun 24, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Addison Wilhite wrote:

 Eventually, to be fully assimilated, you need to be fitted for one of these.  
 And some sandals and a seersucker.
 
 
 
 
 Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
 
 Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
 
 Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success
 
 Educator: Professional Portfolio
 
 Blogger: Reno Rambler 
 
 Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
 Advisory Committee
 
 
 
 
 On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 7:03 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
 yep, grant is the leader and we're all just followers.  
 
 
 On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 6:04:53 AM UTC-5, justin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Unless you own the company you're not a Rivendell Owner.
 -J
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Is it the tube, or the design?

2014-06-20 Thread Hugh Flynn
As a Heron Road owner, I can certainly agree with what you've described below. 

I've never really cared about the tubes or tube specs as I've assumed that the 
great ride quality is the result of the geometry and careful tube selection. 
Simply picking up the same tubes and making a different bike with them would 
probably not generate the same result. It's a complete package I think. 

Hugh Happy Herron Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Jun 20, 2014, at 11:24 AM, Joe Bernard wrote:

 My initial comments about my Heron Road generated a good bit of discussion 
 about the perceived wonderfulness of a specific tube, which has been 
 interesting and informative, but possibly misses a salient fact about said 
 bicycle: I've owned several Grant-designed bikes, and they all have an 
 hard-to-describe-if-you-haven't-experienced-it ability to float comfortably 
 down the road; hold a stable line in a turn; yet snap into a different 
 direction on a whim. I've ridden enough other bikes in 25 years to know this 
 is not an universal quality in frame design, which is one of the things that 
 makes Rivendells (and Riv-designed Herons) special. Of course the tubes 
 chosen for each model/size are part of the equation, but I suspect the 
 geometries they are placed into make more of a difference in the 
 ride/handling than the specific properties of the tube themselves. This would 
 be my guess, at any rate.
 
 Joe I can follow the path, I can read the signs. Stay right with it when the 
 road unwinds Bernard
 Vallejo, CA
 
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Re: [RBW] Reynolds 531 hubub?

2014-06-19 Thread Hugh Flynn
531, I believe, describes the cro-moly mixture. However, 531 tubes were offered 
in different configurations (straight gauge or butted and probably a range of 
other details). 

Since riders didn't always know the configuration differences between two 
frames that bore the 531 sticker, it would be difficult to determine whether 
people who rave about 531 (and I am one) are raving about the mixture, the 
configuration, or both. 

It is worth stating that while 531 frames have been much lauded, there are many 
other wonderful metals and tube-sets out there, and many great bikes have been 
created using things other than 531. Given how long 531 was prominent in the 
market, there simply aren't as MANY frames make from other high-end tube sets 
as there were frames made from 531. That having been said, I also suspect that 
since 531 and all of the available tube-set configurations were well-known to 
builders, it may simply have been easier to tune a build to rider 
requirements with 531. 

Actually answering the question you've asked would require a set of raved about 
531 frames to be ridden in a set of double-blind tests with visually identical 
frames made from straight gauge 531 and identically configured tube sets of 
other metals. The scale at which this test would need to be executed would be 
enormous to say that it has covered all possible permutations and metal 
mixtures and tube set configurations on the market. Moreover, the test would 
not identify the frames for which the mixture of metal and tube configuration 
produced the magic. 

Hugh sometimes I think it's best to just ride Flynn
Newburyport, MA




On Jun 19, 2014, at 10:23 AM, Michael wrote:

 So 531 denotes the mixture of metals in it?
 It came in different configurations of butting and wall thicknesses?
 So people may be raving about the wall thickness, not so much about the 
 531-ness itself?
 
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Re: [RBW] Reynolds 531 hubub?

2014-06-19 Thread Hugh Flynn

On Jun 19, 2014, at 1:34 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 Since riders didn't always know the configuration differences between two 
 frames that bore the 531 sticker, it would be difficult to determine 
 whether people who rave about 531 (and I am one) are raving about the 
 mixture, the configuration, or both.
 
 The one thing we can be pretty sure of is that they weren't raving about the 
 specifics of the alloy (what you're calling the mixture).

Correct. I was responding to the question:

 So 531 denotes the mixture of metals in it?
It came in different configurations of butting and wall thicknesses?
So people may be raving about the wall thickness, not so much about the 
531-ness itself?

To your point however, alloy is a more accurate descriptor. 

HUgh 


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Re: [RBW] I would rather ride my Rivendell thank you

2014-06-13 Thread Hugh Flynn
When life gives you lemons...ride that Riv!!! 

When live doesn't give you lemons...ride that Riv and go find some :-)

Embrace the change and count yourself better for it. If you have a Riv to ride, 
you're already way ahead of the game as far as I can tell. 

Your grace is an inspiration. Nicely done, and best of luck on your next 
adventure. 

Hugh ride ride ride Flynn
Newburyport, MA


On Jun 13, 2014, at 3:49 AM, hsmitham wrote:

 Really a great attitude. Sorry about the job loss. I've always felt the 
 universe has a better idea of what I need than I do. I've lost jobs and 
 always been the better for it. I hope the same for you. Have fun into the 
 next chapter. And yeah I'd rather ride my Riv too.
 
 ~Hugh
 
 On Thursday, June 12, 2014 4:53:34 PM UTC-7, blakcloud wrote:
 Today I was called into a meeting where I was met by HR, management and my 
 union reps. Budget cuts etc and I was let go after 16 years with the same 
 psychiatric hospital. They offered me a cab ride home, since most people are 
 too upset after losing their job but I declined. I told them I had my bike at 
 work and I was going to ride it home. They didn't understand this. They 
 suggested I put the bike in a cab and go home but again I declined. Losing 
 your job is one thing, but not being able to ride my Rivendell home is even 
 worse!
 
  
 The ride home was blissful. I love my bike.
 
  
 P.S. They did give me a pretty good package, so not all is bad. Plus after 
 dealing with 3700 sex offenders against children in my career so far, I might 
 relish a change.
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Cheese

2014-06-13 Thread Hugh Flynn
There has been quite the outcry as the result of what can only be viewed as 
Food Industry purchased legislation to stomp out competition from the 
increasingly popular small producers.  

The FDA has backed down for the moment, but Kraft etc have paid for their FDA 
regulations and will expect them to be enforced eventually. 

http://www.forbes.com/sites/gregorymcneal/2014/06/10/fda-backs-down-in-fight-over-aged-cheese/

Hugh cheese manufacturers are not the same as cheese makers Flynn
Newburyport, MA



On Jun 13, 2014, at 9:48 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Cheese is a great bike food. I love it on long rides. 
 
 But it won't be as good as it has been because the FDA has made wooden boards 
 illegal:
 http://cheeseunderground.blogspot.com/2014/06/game-changer-fda-rules-no-wooden-boards.html
 
 With abandon,
 Patrick
 
 www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
 www.OurHolyConception.org
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Betty clone

2014-06-12 Thread hugh flynn
I'm with you Andrew.

Hi-ten can be perfectly acceptable depending on the intended purpose.
I think very few Linus riders would notice or care if we replaced their
hi-ten frame with 531. Given how I might ride a Lunus if I had one, I might
very well be among those who wouldn't care.

That having been said, I'm also just as likely to pay extra for a 531
version if one were available (or at least a 4130 version).

Hugh

On Thursday, June 12, 2014, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sure, every boat needs an anchor, haha.
 On Jun 12, 2014 7:36 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchantshap...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','marchantshap...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 I guess that was my point.  There is a habit in cycling circles of
 looking down our noses at hi-ten.  We refer to bike being made of gas
 pipe.  The point is that it's more than good enough for a lot of
 purposes.

 On Thursday, June 12, 2014 7:01:09 AM UTC-4, Fullylugged wrote:

 Hi-ten steel (high tensile strength) has a tensile strength of at least
 50KSI.  Chrome Moly alloys are often 100KSI or more depending on alloy and
 treatment. You can use a thinner wall (lighter) tube in Cr-Mo than Hi Ten.
 It also is a livelier material, giving a nicer feel when riding. IMO, you
 can take this too far. For example, Reynolds 831 is very light and strong,
 and also very stiff (and usually formed in larger diameter thin wall tube),
 which defeats the purpose for me of riding a steel bike.  I like 531
 myself, and the somewhat stiffer 731. YMMV. There a numerous tables around
 where you can compare the tensiles of various alloys.


 On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 5:11 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Other than weight, is there a disadvantage to hi-ten?  I thought the
 point to using any given sterl was to (essentially) keep the frame strong
 enough while reducing weight.

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Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] Hunqapillar steerer too long?

2014-06-12 Thread hugh flynn
I know this isn't the input you are looking for, but I would condider
swapping  the bullmoose bars for a no-rise stem and handle bar of your
choice before considering taking a hacksaw to the fork.

Swapping stems/bars is easy. Uncutting a threaded steerer is very hard. The
bullmoose bars are great, but not worth cutting the steerer imho

Hugh reversable Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Thursday, June 12, 2014, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

 I mean this only with the utmost kindness and consideration, but that bike
 looks too big for you.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ericwolfo...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Great looking bike!

 Makes me want one!

 Anyone know if Riv has a 54cm in stock!?


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Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar steerer too long?

2014-06-12 Thread Hugh Flynn
Agreed re: bullmoose bars on bumpy trails. 

There's always time to cut the steerer later if you don't like the ride with 
the quill stem/bar combo. I've never loved Albatross bars because I think the 
rearward sweep is too much, but those Albastache bars are looking mighty comfy 
to me. Choices choices choices.

Hugh Spending as much time at the (handle) bars as I can Flynn
Newburyport, MA




On Jun 12, 2014, at 10:09 AM, Ginz wrote:

 David,
 
 Thanks for the input and your statement is fair.  I think that part of it is 
 the angle of the photo. Part of it is the 2.5cm of headset spacers and part 
 of it is that the spacer stack leaves the already tall Bullmoose bars a bit 
 too high.  It seems that all my complaining about low bars and short head 
 tubes has come around and bitten me in the tail!
 
 On paper, the top tube length and other dimensions are like most other bikes 
 I ride.  The difference with the Hunqapillar seems to be that the front end 
 is much higher via a tall headtube and long steerer tube.   When I look at 
 photos of Hunqpillars across the internet, some saddles are high...some are 
 low some bars are jacked way up...some are not.
 
 I've thought about going for a 47cm Atlantis but the top tube would be really 
 short for me to use with a sweeping handlebar.  I already have an Albatrossed 
 bike and a hardtail mountain bike. Drops are out of the question.
 
 That's why I'm thinking I should trim this fork by about 15mm...maybe even 
 20mm...  I do have a spare cro-mo Albatross lying around and...maybe I should 
 try that first.  It's just that the Bullmoose is so nice on bumpy trails.
 
 Thanks for any input, everyone!
 Ginz
 
 
 
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