[RBW] Now Ebay Outing; was: FS: '05 Mercian Vincitore Custom Road/Fixed Frameset; 64x59.5cm c-c

2018-04-07 Thread pcb
Just a heads-up to all of youse, I moved the Mercian Vincitore to ebay, with 
new photos of the naked frameset. Link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112917306031 

With apologies and thanks---

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 01:11:14 -0400, p...@skyweb.net wrote:

Apologies for the cross-posting, but I think this frameset fits all three 
groups. I'm selling a tall 2005 Mercian Vincitore custom Road/Fixed-Gear 
frameset, 64cmx59.9cm c-c. I bought it from the original owner, who ordered it 
custom directly from Mercian. Lovely frame, lovely ride, but I'd prefer a bit 
more standover, so I'm hoping to find it a new home. 

The Vincitore is Mercian's top-o'-the-line frame, with the distinctive lugs 
hand-cut from blanks. If my math is correct, the current base price is around 
1,000 pounds (~$1,300)  w/o VAT, plus shipping. I'm not sure if there's an 
upcharge for the fixed-gear configuration.

I'm asking $700 handed-off in the NY/NJ metro area, or $775 shipped via 
bikeflights in the continental USA. Preference will be given to a local sale.

I only have photos of the frame built-up, what's offered for sale here is the 
frame/fork/headset (Chris King) only. Note that the frame takes a 27.4mm post. 
Apologies to CR listers for any and all off-topic parts pictured.

The frame is built with Reynolds 531ST tubing, with clearances for fairly wide 
tires. Actual 700x35mm tires fit comfortably, and I'm fine with slightly 
tighter clearances and 700x38s. I've also ridden it with 650b wheels at one 
point, but didn't have any 650b tires wider than 38mm. I'd guess that 650bx42s 
would fit, but can't guarantee it. The 650b setup gave me a bit more standover. 
I bought, and inexpertly applied, the Reynolds 531ST sticker visible on the 
frame. I don't know if it's correct for a 2005 frameset, but should be fairly 
easy to remove. 

No dents/dings/scrapes or other damage. Paint is a solid 9/10, with just a 
couple of very small scratches. I haven't had it on a frame table, but it rides 
fine. Please check the photos in my flickr album, and PM me with any questions:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsknmswGe

Details---measurements are mine;
2005 Mercian Vincitore Custom Road Fixed Gear/ Reynolds 531ST tubing
ST: 73.2-deg; HT: 72.5-deg 
ST c-c: 64.0cm; c-t: 66.0cm x.x
TT c-c: 59.5cm 
Chainstay: 45.5cm; WB: 107.0cm 
BB Height: 27.8mm/11" w/700c
Bottom Bracket Drop: 7.0cm; Standover: 91.0cm/35.75" 
Head Tube Length: 247mm
Brake Reach: approx 58mm w/700c
 Rear Axle Spacing: 120 mm

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Ebay Outing (Mine): '95 Rivendell Road 58.5cm

2018-03-27 Thread pcb
The hook-clearing continues, with my Riv Road just posted on ebay. I love what 
it represents, and how it rides, but it duplicates more than a couple '70s-'80s 
sport-tour frames I lucked into.  Auction runs till Sunday night.

Link: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-Rivendell-Road-Frameset-58-5cm-c-c-12-95-Waterford-Build-Reynolds-753/112897342122
Auction number: 112897342122

Fits 30mm actual-width tires, rides sweet, very roadworthy, cosmetically has 
some bald spots.

Dimensions/Geometry (my measurements):
ST 58.5cm c-c, 60.0cm c-t
TT 58.5cm c-c
ST 72.3-deg, HT 72.3-deg
Chainstay 42.0cm, wheelbase 103.0cm
BB height 26.7cm; bb drop 66mm
Standover 82.5cm/32.5" with 700x30mm tires
Rear spacing 128mm; short horizontal Henry James drops w/o eyelets
Seatpost: 27.2mm
Brake Reach: 39-49mm
Tire Clearance: 30mm actual width

More pix on flickr:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsjMNNebe 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tires/Wheels for new Sam Hillborne

2013-08-07 Thread pcb


 You can fit 650b wheels on any 700c bike, but some 700c bikes won't 
fit 650b tires. This isn't an issue for Mark's Sam, but it's worth 
noting for 650b conversions in general. If your frame has tight 
clearances with 25mm 700c tires, currently-available 650b tires will be 
very tight. If 23mm 700c tires are tight, you're likely SOL without 
frame modification. AFAIK there are no 650b tires narrower than 32mm 
currently available; GB Cypres and Hutchinson Confrérie des 650 are 
the narrowest at 32-33mm. The only very slightly narrower tire 
sometimes available is the discontinued Michelin Megamium, 31-32mm. 
I have two 650b conversions in-house with less than 2mm tire clearance 
at the chainstays, a '96 Waterford 1200 with Megamiums and a '76 Mooney 
with Confreries. Both are pretty tight with 25mm 700c tires. They have 
vertical drops so no chance of wheel slippage, and I'm stupid enough to 
ride both---on decent roads, not too far from home. The Mooney is 
Reynolds 531 but has great paint, so I'm not ready to have the 
chainstays crimped. The W'ford also has great paint, but beyond that 
it's built with Reynolds 753, not a great candidate for crimping. 
Nothing wider than the Megamiums will fit in the W'ford, so when either 
of those tires dies it's back to 700c. 
The question is most definitely what would you gain with 650b? The 
conversion ideal is using a 650b tire with enough volume to both 
improve the ride and not drastically change handling. On these two 
bikes I'd rather have 31-32mm 650b rubber and tight clearances than 
25mm 700c rubber and tight clearances. 
I would love to see a true 30mm supple 650b tire to help give better 
road manners to crit bikes... 
Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Tim Gavin :

  You can fit 650B wheels on any 700C bike.  The question is which 
brakes to useThe question is, what would you gain with 650B?  You 
can already fit 45mm tires on 700C rims on the Sam.  Do you want more 
float than that?  If you do, then go for it... 


Tim

On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 6:20 AM, Mitch Browne  wrote:

  I've ridden Supreme 40's under my Atlantis Longboards daily for 
almost two years now. Love them. No fit issues. Mitch BrowneSan Luis 
Obispo, CA


On Tuesday, August 6, 2013 4:46:53 PM UTC-7, Mark Taintor wrote:

   I have a new 56 cm Sam that's going to be built up in the next 
week or so, and I've got a couple questions about tires and wheels for 
it:
1. I'll be putting on Longboard fenders and was wondering if 40 mm 
Marathon Supremes would work with them. Would it be better to run the 
35 mm Supremes? I know there's clearance for 40 mm tires on the 
Hillborne but don't know if that is with/without fenders. 
2. Anybody ever put 650B wheels on a 56 Sam? Looking on the Riv website 
at the page for the Betty Foy, it says that the Betty and the Sam can 
take the same volume tires. The Betty mostly uses 650B wheels. As of 
now I'm planning on 700c wheels, but am intrigued with 650B. Thoughts?

Thanks,Mark

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Re: [RBW] Re: duct tape to enamel paint

2013-08-05 Thread pcb


 Hopefully this won't get me banned from the list, but I've been using 
self-fusing silicone tape to finish my gel tape bar wraps for a few 
years now. Three strikes for me already for not using cotton tape, 
twine and shellac... 
It's available in colors, though I only do black bar wrap (strike 4?), 
so black silicone tape. It's fast and neat, you cut about a 6 length, 
stretch it tight as you wind around the bar, next to the handlebar 
ferrule. Since it has no adhesive, there's no oozing adhesive later, 
like electrical tape, and since it fuses/sticks to itself, it never 
peels or separates. Seems impervious to normal temperature extremes, 
doesn't loosen/degrade in hot temps or solidify/crack in low temps. 
Jersey temps, anyway, up to 100deg in summer, down to zero in winter. 
Never thought of it for lighting/computer cable wrap since the native 
width is 1, kinda wide for cable wrap. You could cut it lengthwise, I 
suppose, but being gel-like, it could be a little squirrely to cut 
lengthwise?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Cyclofiend Jim :

  Absolutely do not use Duct (or Duck) tape on bikes...It makes 
for a nasty clean up...But, YES on Gaffer's Tape.  That is wonderful 
stuff. 

Also - the other item I found is Rescue Tape which comes in several 
colors and clear.  It is a self-fusing silicone wrap which I've used to 
water-restrict openings and attachments.  The stuff is pretty cool. 


http://www.rescuetape.com/

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

On Monday, August 5, 2013 9:32:39 AM UTC-7, SMP wrote:

  Would you ever put duct tape onto your frame?  How would it 
impact the enamel paint job?
I am trying to think of a a non-zip-tie way to route dynamo light 
wires, and I found the perfect hue of duct tape that matches my paint 
job. 


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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto, Paul, Nigel Smythe, Swift, Gripking, Brand V, Bruce Gordon, Cateye, Tektro, etc.

2013-07-14 Thread pcb


 Hi Mike, if I'm not too late, though I'll assume I am, I'd like to 
buy your Paul canti brakes. IMHO they perform very nicely, they also 
have the best possible name. Can paypal straightaway, please let me 
know if I got lucky. 
Cheers,

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Mike On A Bike :

  Hey y'all, I'm having a long overdue garage sale for some of my 
underused equipage. The prices listed are simply what I think their 
worth, and I'm open to offers. Most of the items listed here have a 
picture or two in this photo album. I may add a few more things to this 
listing and I'll try to post pictures for everything. 
All items will have an at-cost shipping fee added. Please contact me 
off-list if your're interested, thanks!


Paul Components Canti-Combo: One pair of Neo-Retro brakes (front) and 
one pair of the Touring model, both in silver anodized. $75 for the set. 
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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO large **non saddlebag loop** seat wedge big enough to carry a 1 qt water container + a 20 oz water bottle.

2013-06-29 Thread pcb


 I'll maybe offer the only counter-voice so far. Have a Pika and find 
it a bit lacking. It doesn't sway much less than other saddlebags I've 
used, when extended I find it sways quite a bit. It also sits very high 
when extended, gets in the way when I tuck back to descend. 
It's also not easy to get to stuff deep in the bag. You have to pop the 
buckles, unroll it, then stick your arm in and fish around till your 
fingers find it, with the outer edge of the bag all the way up at your 
elbow. 
So I'm not a big fan so far. It is much lighter than a canvas/leather 
alternative, or a racked bag, but I'm not so concerned about weight. 
Also, FWIW, I used lots of saddlebags on loop-less saddles, never had 
trouble cinching the straps tight on the seat rails. I definitely use 
the Peter White trick of locating the buckles inside the bag and 
tightening the straps as much as possible. Most bags with stiffeners or 
dowels up top do well with livable sway. 
Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Patrick Moore :

  I would immediately choose the Pika except for the price. We'll 
see -- if I can get a discount from Stevie ---
Since the gofast would use such a bag only periodically (sorry, I like 
to keep the silhouette of that bike lean and clean) I would probably 
use the Pika on the Fargo (now rackless since shopping duties were 
transferred to the Ram) and save the Carradice Prima Maxi for the 
gofast. 
Question: the Fargo has very, very little clearance between saddle 
(even with the immensely long, 500mm (?) mm post) and the 29-plus rear 
tire, so little that even a Carradice Junior drags. The Carradice 
clears nicely, but it's only 5 liters, which is more apt for the gofast 
anyway. Would you be kind enough to measure the maximum height of the 
Pika, first unexpanded, then expanded? I'd be grateful. 


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Garth  wrote:

   Yep  great to have choices !!

FWIW  my main criteria was no leg or butt rub and yet large. The 
Pika is 6-12 liters !!  The end has no seal or closure, you simply roll 
it like a cigar and the ends connect to the stabilzer straps on the 
side. It's really a smart design. The velcro stap around the seatpost 
is like industrial quality. I appreciate such velcro !  And it's really 
light of


I too looked at the ones you have , but for me they all would have 
rubbed me the wrong way ... lol.  (pun intended !)  I would have gladly 
got a Jandd Mnt. Wedge 3 if it was tapered at the seatpost. I was about 
to give up and just go the rack and bag route again , but racks are 
such dead weight. So ask, and ye shall find !  There is was . I thought 
I saw the larger Revelate bag expanded and thought it was a joke.  But 
it was real and works really well.  The guy who makes the bags is a one 
man show in Alaska, or maybe he has some help these days IDK. 

You'll likely be happy with any of them really ... the hardest part is 
always the dance before buying them 4 sure ! Have fun Patrick  
everything can be :)


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http://resumespecialties.com/index.htmlpatrickmo...@resumespecialties.com 
http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

Albuquerque, NM

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Re: [RBW] FS: Sugino Triple, S83 post, Tallux 11cm stem, 46cm Noodles, Marks Rack, lil loafer, etc.

2013-06-22 Thread pcb


 Hi Patrick, I'll scarf up the Noodles and Iris cages if still 
available. Can paypal straightaway, unless I fall asleep before you 
reply, in which case I can pay tomorrow.  :^}


Cheers,

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ

Quoting LouisvillePatrick :

  All prices include shipping to Continental US.  Paypal preferred!

Nitto Noodle 48cm Handlebars:  Normal scratching from mounting to stem, 
brakes, great condition.   $65.00
2 King Cages:  Iris style, my favorite.  Great shape.20.00 for the pair. 
Pictures of all of these items can be seen at:  www.flickr.com/bassandbike

Thanks for looking, and please contact with questions!
Patrick JohnsonLouisville, Kentucky

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Phil Wood SS (fixed-free) Rear Wheel

2013-05-31 Thread pcb


I'd be interested in knowing rim/spoke spec, as well as price, 
including shipping if you're willing to ship. I know you'd prefer 
local, but sometimes local doesn't work and somebody in NJ has paypal 
funds burning a hole in his pocket (ahem!). 
Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting jar351 :

  Sorry. I seem to have managed to leave all the useful 
information out of my posts. I'm in Oakland, CA. 


On Thursday, May 30, 2013 9:15:37 AM UTC-7, jim wrote:

  Wow localed? I meant where are you located?

Jim

On Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:22:47 AM UTC-5, jim wrote:

  where are you localed?
Jim (in Madison WI)

On Wednesday, May 15, 2013 4:56:53 PM UTC-5, jar351 wrote:

  Hi all,
I've got a Phil Wood single speed wheel in great shape that I've 
absolutely no use for, so it's time to find it a new home. Great as an 
upgrade for your Sim

Here are the details:
Fixed-Free hub, spaced to 120mm

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Re: [RBW] Great Western Bicycle Rally - 2013

2013-05-31 Thread pcb


 To each his own, of course, but I figure I've got more than a couple 
thousand bucks into a bicycle that is always just one small oil slick 
or attention-defecit driver away from crashing and burning, so I'm not 
going to forgo the awesomeness of a Fuji X100/S or X10/X20 for fear of 
dropping. You can get a clean/used X100 for $500-$600, a clean X10 for 
$200-$275 (?), with file output that is as good as a Riv rides. 
Heck, some of us are shodding our $400+ wheels with near-$100 tires, 
and you can shred a tire in no-time flat. 
YMMV... 
Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Eric Norris :

  The x100 looks like a great camera, but my personal rules about 
digital cameras and cycling require that I only carry a camera that I 
wouldn't mind dropping while riding. At upwards of $1,000, the x100 
wouldn't meet that test for me. 
I generally carry cameras that I paid $100 or less for, and those 
usually come from eBay (where I buy older models to get 95% of the 
features at 25% of the price). I got a screaming deal on a very nice 
waterproof Sony camera mostly because it is pink, and nobody wants a 
pink camera. 


Eric Nwww.CampyOnly.comCampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.comTwitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
On May 31, 2013, at 7:11 AM, jimD  wrote:

  The FujiFilm X cameras particularly the X100 and X100S make 
great cameras to use when riding.Thanks very much for the kudos on the 
photos. Almost all the pictures are made from raw files processed in 
LightRoom. 
I can't praise Paso Robles enough as a great place to ride. Lots of 
'country bike' kind of riding there and much variety. Plus the Great 
Western Bicycle Rally is about as un-racerish multi-day event I've 
encountered.  I enjoy all the little kids zooming around the 
fairgrounds on their bikes. 
Cheers,JimD


On May 31, 2013, at 6:26 AM, bwphoto  wrote:

  Great photos! I've been drooling over the the x100 and similar 
cameras since they first came out. Their compactness reminds me the 
light and unencumbered feel of my old film cameras, while I love my 
DSLRs and lenses sometimes I yearn for simplicity. Your BWs are 
gorgeous, great tonality, they almost look like selenium toned prints, 
are those straight out of the camera or converted in post?


Also, I loved your shots of the urban/suburban landscapes...and the 
story they tell. 


On Monday, May 27, 2013 10:42:18 PM UTC-5, JimD wrote:

  As is our custom, pal Brian and I spent this weekend at the 
Great Western Bicycle Rally in Paso Robles, CA.The rally is a great 
family affair and the variety of riding in Paso Robles is 
excellent.Pictures may prove that it happened:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rasterdogs/

JimD

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[RBW] Re: Bike Spec Product Managers; was: [BOB] The AngryAsian says.....

2013-05-31 Thread pcb


 I know that gearing is always a very individual thing, with fitness 
level and terrain and target speed and load and more mixed in. With 
11/12t cogs, it's all about how you define standard chainring sizes.
I've pretty much entirely abandoned triples for compact doubles, and 
34/46 or 34/48 are my new standard rings. An 11/12t cog gives me a 
high enough gear to spin a bit before I tuck to descend, my 
dweeble-like build being ideal only for descending. With a smallish 
12-14t jump in the front, indexed shifting is always easy and even 
foolproof. 
Haven't done loaded touring in many decades, if that option presented 
itself I'd need lower gearing, either a triple, but they feel kinda 
yucky now, or a more-compact doulble (24/44?) or a monster low rear cog 
(42t w/SRAM?). 
Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Geof Gee :

On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:44 PM, Andy Goodell  wrote:

  If 11t is too fast than why not just use smaller chainrings?

Particularly for indexed front derailer shifting, it pays to keep the 
standard chainring sizes.  If you are like me, then you prefer the 
width of a road crank which AFAIK means the smallest (big) chainring is 
50t.  For me, I've always been a spinner, that is simply not usable 
except in extraordinary circumstances. 
For a long time, I used a 12-32 10-speed cassette with a compact crank. 
 But I hardly used the 12-tooth cog; I used the 32 more than the 12.  
Nevertheless, I had more usable cogs in the center of the cassette with 
easier jumps. 
However, I'll be the first to admit that the general acceptance of 
11-tooth cogs implies that most people seem to be fine with it and I'm 
the strange one. 
 -G

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Re: [RBW] Swapping Bleriot drivetrain idea. Will it work?

2013-05-30 Thread pcb


 Fder might work, should have enough swing but there are other 
limitations: cage curve doesn't match a 46t ring well, and your 22t 
difference may mean chain will rub rear of cage in all but a couple of 
low/(big) cogs. Dropping the 46t to a 44t would help, and tighten up 
the shifting---stick with a 13t high cog and the 44t shouldn't be bad. 
Rder limitation is not only cage length/chain wrap, but also body 
geometry---the Ultegra, even the long cage version, may not be able to 
get the guide pulley under a 32t cog. Them's ATB-world gears, so 
Deore/XT/XTR should work fine. 
Only you know how low you really need your low to be. The likely 
cheapest/easiest way to gear lower with your present setup would be to 
use a 34t front ring, smallest the crank can handle, then to go 36t in 
the rear, replace the rder. For one chainring, one cassette, one rder 
and chain, bob's yer uncle, if 34fx36r is low enough. I'd also ditch 
the 50t ring for 46t or 48t, unless you like pushing gears descending 
at high speed,
Next step would be a wider/lower compact crank, something with a 
smaller-than-110 bolt circle that would let you do a 28/44 double. 
Stick w/10spd in the rear and you might not miss the middle ring, 
you'll have fewer chainline/rub probs, etc. 28/44 double w/13-32 10spd? 
New crank, new rings, new cassette, new rder, new chain, maybe new bb?
I'm guessing you're not index-shifting, so 10sp vs 9sp vs 8sp doesn't 
matter shift-wise? Otherwise you'll need a new rear shifter if you 
change from 10spd. 
Or you can do what you suggested, change everything. 
Ah, the tyranny of choice!!!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

Quoting Michael :

  I am thinking about changing my Bleriot's drivetrain. Here is 
the plan. Will it work with the existing FD and RD I have? I have on 
the Bleriot now:Ultegra Compact crankset 36-5010 speed cassette in the 
rear 27-11 I think.Ultegra FD and RD I want to change to:Sugino triple 
24-36-469 speed cassette in back. 32-14 or something.New bb of course.  
I am thinking that even if the FD can swing wide enough for a triple, 
the RD would need a long pulley arm to work in tandem with the triple 
up front? The Ultegra has a short one now. Any ideas for a compromise 
that would work?Might just have to change out the derailers, too I 
guess. Getting expensive. 


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