[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
Perry, Exactly what I was looking for! Are you still running a similar setup or have you found 'the one' cockipt to serve your needs? Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
Tony, my first choice is albas. My second choice is albas. Third? Ditto. In fact, I doubt there is any problem in life (bike-related or otherwise) that can't be solved by albas. ;) Seriously, they have been my go to bars for many years. I can be comfortable with most any bar but I just love the albas (or I used to call them a-bars). Ymmv. Here was my little ode to them, again, back in the day. (Same PDF disclaimers as with previous link.) http://bit.ly/14ZnEeW • Perry -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
Tony, I never tried them that way because I know from the m-bar experiment it wouldn't be my cup of tea. I like being upright and schooching down when necessary by going the bar's deep bends (up front)--with elbows bent if necessary to get lower. When I'm descending down gnarly terrain, I want the bar ends (with reachable brake levers) to come up and back as much as possible--not low like when the a-bar upside down. • Perry -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
This image showed up on the 650B group. Posted by Soma more about the decaleur but it does seem that Nitto has an open face quill in the works. Does not look to be that long - maybe like a Dynamic. But much better looking than the UI-2 stem. Dan -Marin [image: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XFvhqY_T4ZQ/Ugq1IBUJcjI/KA0/qNA2Wn_KcGA/s1600/Image+created+with+Snapseed.jpg] On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 9:56 AM, bobish bob...@gmail.com wrote: Tony, I never tried them that way because I know from the m-bar experiment it wouldn't be my cup of tea. I like being upright and schooching down when necessary by going the bar's deep bends (up front)--with elbows bent if necessary to get lower. When I'm descending down gnarly terrain, I want the bar ends (with reachable brake levers) to come up and back as much as possible--not low like when the a-bar upside down. • Perry -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
I ran DaVinci cable splitters on my Bomba (to swap between Noodles and Bullmoose bars)... An idea Seth Vidal shared with this forum :) I was able to swap bars, brakes and shifters in literally 5 minutes... pretty cool setup. Here's how I had mine set up: Shift cables: I put splitters on the front and rear derailleur cables, and located them just below the downtube cable stop/adjusters. Each bar setup contained its own cable stop/adjuster and one half of the splitter. A swap merely required detaching/attaching the cable stop and disconnecting/connecting the DaVinci splitter. Brake cables: I opted for V-brakes, because (for one) they work very well, but make it easy to swap levers (keeping a noodle on each brake cable, and detaching the cable at the brake caliper. So to swap a bar setup, this is the order of steps: Loosen stem bolt Disconnect front and rear brakes at caliper and unroute brake housings/cables Disconnect DaVinci splitters for front and rear derailleurs and unroute deraileur housings/cables Disconnect cable stops/adjusters Pull entire assembly out of headtube (with connected brake and shift cables) Install other set of bars and reconnect brake and shift cables. Getting the initial setup dialed in (with 2 sets of bars/shifters/brakes) is the bigger challenge; doing the swap each time is pretty easy. Good luck! Peace, Bobby On Tuesday, August 20, 2013 2:57:38 PM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote: I was about to put this in Christian's 'Messing with the hunq' thread but decided it was just enough off topic... Question for William, or anyone else who has multiple cockpit's set up for a single bike I'd be interested in your thoughts for doing that. Specifcally if you have any tricks for preserving/extending the life of the cables... when you switch cockpits does the new one have a wholy new set of cables/housing already installed or are you stripping down the bars and re-cabling every time? I've swapped once on an MB-5 from Flat bars to moustache and then back to a flat (bulmoose) setup where I left the cables installed on the shifters but I ended up still replacing 3 of 4 cables by the end of the process. Has anyone looked into using the cable disconnects a-la the SS coupler bikes as a short cut for cockpit changeout? Given the versatility of the Atlantis I'm thinking you could have an awesome capability to go fat tire - upright bars, not-so-fat tire - drop bars... or vice versa. But I'd want to be able to easily do it in 30-45 min tops and not have to buy new cables all the time. Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
Bobby, That's awesome. Exactly what I was wondering about. Glad to see it does work well. William - The thumbie's as a vehicle to swap the shifters is really cool, I hadn't thought about that. I'm not entirely wedded to keeping bar-end's so I'm going to have to look at that. Do the thumb(ie) bases stay on their respective bar's or move when you swap bars? Michael - Alba/Moustache to Noodles is exactly what I'm thinking about having as my swap... Right now I run the bar-end cable housing under about 3-4 inches of bartape on the alba/moustache bars so there would be a re-wrap to swap them out, but that wouldn't be the worst thing. Especially when I'm just trying things out. To be honest, Im loving the original moustache bar's on the Atlantis. I've been running Alba's on my Trek for about 5 month's now (upside down) and like them as well. But on the Moustache bar's I find Im liking that the bar end grips end up straighter and less flared than the alba it's only been half a week though. Time will tell! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
William - The thumbie's as a vehicle to swap the shifters is really cool, I hadn't thought about that. I'm not entirely wedded to keeping bar-end's so I'm going to have to look at that. Do the thumb(ie) bases stay on their respective bar's or move when you swap bars? It depends. When I bought the SOMA version, I did so because they were hinged. At that time the Paul originals were not hinged. With the hinged SOMA version you can clamp them with the shim on the bullmoose, and clamp them without the shim on the tops of the Noodles. Also, I lied, or forgot. You do have to remove the shift cables to get the barcon shifters out of the barcon adapter that stays in the end of the Noodles. Duh. I haven't done that swap in a LONG time apparently and the memory is going. My apologies. On Wednesday, August 21, 2013 3:22:47 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote: Bobby, That's awesome. Exactly what I was wondering about. Glad to see it does work well. William - The thumbie's as a vehicle to swap the shifters is really cool, I hadn't thought about that. I'm not entirely wedded to keeping bar-end's so I'm going to have to look at that. Do the thumb(ie) bases stay on their respective bar's or move when you swap bars? Michael - Alba/Moustache to Noodles is exactly what I'm thinking about having as my swap... Right now I run the bar-end cable housing under about 3-4 inches of bartape on the alba/moustache bars so there would be a re-wrap to swap them out, but that wouldn't be the worst thing. Especially when I'm just trying things out. To be honest, Im loving the original moustache bar's on the Atlantis. I've been running Alba's on my Trek for about 5 month's now (upside down) and like them as well. But on the Moustache bar's I find Im liking that the bar end grips end up straighter and less flared than the alba it's only been half a week though. Time will tell! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
No worries, makes sense about the hinge. Your comment brings up the good question of how often I would really swap out the cockpits... and how much energy really needs to be put into it. I think the DaVinci splitters are the way to go if you want 'plug and play', with an added cost of ~$20/setup. I think I'll stick to just moustache for now, possibly demo-ing the Alba's when they get replaced on the Trek by some drops... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
For shifters I run Shimano barcons on the Noodles, with the housing completely outside of the handlebar tape. There are SOMA Thumbie bases on the bullmoose, and the barcons screw right into those bases. Zero cabling on the shift side. You do have to use a screwdriver to remove the shifters, though, but there is no derailer cable adjustment happening. When I bought these: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh5.htm I removed the friction shifter part and used it on another bike. They happen to make the best friction barcons in the history of mankind (IMHO). For brakes I bought a bunch of these: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ca21.htm so I can have the cable assembly fully strung up out to this straddle carrier ahead of time. Now if I want to take the cockpit off, I free the shifters and using only my hands, I QR the brakes and free up the entire brake cable assembly from slotted guides. The straddles themselves stay attached to the bike. The other cockpit has the brake cables all set up, all the way down to the straddle carriers. I just put the housing into the right stops (that's why they are slotted!) and Bob's your uncle. On Tuesday, August 20, 2013 11:57:38 AM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote: I was about to put this in Christian's 'Messing with the hunq' thread but decided it was just enough off topic... Question for William, or anyone else who has multiple cockpit's set up for a single bike I'd be interested in your thoughts for doing that. Specifcally if you have any tricks for preserving/extending the life of the cables... when you switch cockpits does the new one have a wholy new set of cables/housing already installed or are you stripping down the bars and re-cabling every time? I've swapped once on an MB-5 from Flat bars to moustache and then back to a flat (bulmoose) setup where I left the cables installed on the shifters but I ended up still replacing 3 of 4 cables by the end of the process. Has anyone looked into using the cable disconnects a-la the SS coupler bikes as a short cut for cockpit changeout? Given the versatility of the Atlantis I'm thinking you could have an awesome capability to go fat tire - upright bars, not-so-fat tire - drop bars... or vice versa. But I'd want to be able to easily do it in 30-45 min tops and not have to buy new cables all the time. Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's
I went from drops to Moustaches to Alba's on my Sam. I had Tiagra road brake levers and bar end shifters on the original drops. *Drops to Moustaches -* Just loosen and remove bar end shifter levers and road brake levers and remount them on the Moustache after installing stache onto the stem. *No need to disconnect any cables/housings if they are long enough for the new bar height you will set.* Simple. No need to adjust tension on cables after, I found, either. Still braked and shifted the same after the switch. *Moustaches/drops to Alba's* - Buy Alba's and 24.4 clamp stem for it if you don't already have one (or NITTO 26-to-25.4 shim at rivbike.com or LBS), new MTB brake levers (that will work with your existing type of brake calipers), and new mountain bike brake cables. You can use existing housings if they prove to be long enough. No need to undo the shifter cables if they prove to be long enough. You will need to use new MTB brake cables because the MTB levers don't take a road mushroom cable end. They have that flattened cylinder looking end. Mount Albas onto new stem, or old 26 clamp stem with NITTO shim, brake levers next, grips, then bar end shifters. Install and adjust new MTB brake cables. If no grips, bartape away. It is really easy to swap everything. Fun, too. Most time consuming thing is getting brake levers set up at the angles you want. Depends how perfectionistic you want to be with it. Drops are the worst for this because you have to set the lever level and angle and then level the other lever to the first one. Moustaches are easy and fun. Alba's are even easier. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
