Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
All my Rivs have been happier with rear loads, and have handled rear loads very well. #3, the green Curt '03 now has a small front rack to support a medium front bag and I've had almost 10 lb total on the front, but that's about the limit before the handling gets unpleasant. OTOH, I've carried almost 40 lb in the rear with no more than a bit of tail wagging. On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 8:37 PM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote: Patrick - Thanks for the heads up about the front loading - I hadn't considered that and am not married to a front bag. I'll consider a large saddle bag. I'm starting with the Alba bar 'cuz I have one here, and will try a Mustache and then drop if needed. I am also considering the S-A 3XS (fixed) and will post when I've got and ridden either one. So many excellent choices! Suggestions welcome - new to this stuff, really. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com A billion stars go spinning through the night Blazing high above your head; But in you is the Presence that will be When all the stars are dead. (Rilke, Buddha in Glory) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I figure I'm not a pizza delivery guy so I won't need a front loader..a rear saddle bag makes more sense in my rainy climate plus I need an excuse to get off my bike a stretch every now and then. My clone Atlantis seems to able to take a lighter front load also and when I do need something from a front bag when riding (thinking hard now) it will usually be light and or small. I think the whole giant front bag thing is overrated IMHO. On May 17, 12:46 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: All my Rivs have been happier with rear loads, and have handled rear loads very well. #3, the green Curt '03 now has a small front rack to support a medium front bag and I've had almost 10 lb total on the front, but that's about the limit before the handling gets unpleasant. OTOH, I've carried almost 40 lb in the rear with no more than a bit of tail wagging. On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 8:37 PM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote: Patrick - Thanks for the heads up about the front loading - I hadn't considered that and am not married to a front bag. I'll consider a large saddle bag. I'm starting with the Alba bar 'cuz I have one here, and will try a Mustache and then drop if needed. I am also considering the S-A 3XS (fixed) and will post when I've got and ridden either one. So many excellent choices! Suggestions welcome - new to this stuff, really. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com A billion stars go spinning through the night Blazing high above your head; But in you is the Presence that will be When all the stars are dead. (Rilke, Buddha in Glory) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 8:35 AM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: I figure I'm not a pizza delivery guy so I won't need a front loader..a rear saddle bag makes more sense in my rainy climate plus I need an excuse to get off my bike a stretch every now and then. My clone Atlantis seems to able to take a lighter front load also and when I do need something from a front bag when riding (thinking hard now) it will usually be light and or small. I think the whole giant front bag thing is overrated IMHO. L'allure francaise ... I bought my front loading Herse to carry a dog -- hope to get a big front porteur rack shortly -- otherwise, I am quite happy with rear loading. I have gone back and forth between panniers and large saddlebags for 20 years but have ended up with the former because of their greater flexibility and the ease of swapping out large for smaller panniers (or none at all, occasionally). Now that you mention it, the porteur rack ought to be great for pizzas (as long as the dog isn't on the front, too). I never did figure out how to carry a pizza in even a large pannier, unless it was frozen. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
On Tue, 2011-05-17 at 07:35 -0700, charlie wrote: I figure I'm not a pizza delivery guy so I won't need a front loader..a rear saddle bag makes more sense in my rainy climate plus I need an excuse to get off my bike a stretch every now and then. My clone Atlantis seems to able to take a lighter front load also and when I do need something from a front bag when riding (thinking hard now) it will usually be light and or small. I think the whole giant front bag thing is overrated IMHO. How big does a bag have to be to qualify as giant? Would you consider a bag like the Berthoud GB28 giant? (Volume : 12L, Height: 270mm, Width without pockets: 270mm, Depth without front pocket: 145mm) http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/5027013765/in/set-72157603355855778/ This is a far cry from pizza deliver guy territory, and is a fine example of a large front handlebar bag. There's enough room for an O2 Rainshield rain jacket and eye glasses (plus tools, tubes, small camera, lunch, wallet and so on) and if I do have to take off my sun glasses or put on the rain jacket, I don't have to actually park the bike to do it; just stopping with both feet on the ground is enough. I used to think the get off every now and then thing made sense, too, until one time I did a century where it alternated between sprinkling, clearing up, darking and sprinkling again every five or ten miles all day long, and parking the bike and walking around to the back of the bike to change glasses simply drove me nuts. Of course, what really tore it was when I got a flat around 65 miles in, and couldn't get the tube to fit. I tried it every which way, and it was just plain too small. And yet, I could clearly see the -7 x 1 1/4 inch written on the tube (the first letter was just a blur). It took several minutes before I realized, the tube was a 17 x 1 1/4 tube from my Moulton... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I think the issue was how well Charlie's bike would handle with more than a small front load. Rivs, in my experience, don't like more than, say, 10 lb in front -- but that is my experience with very roady customs plus the Sam Hill. On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 8:51 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On Tue, 2011-05-17 at 07:35 -0700, charlie wrote: I figure I'm not a pizza delivery guy so I won't need a front loader..a rear saddle bag makes more sense in my rainy climate plus I need an excuse to get off my bike a stretch every now and then. My clone Atlantis seems to able to take a lighter front load also and when I do need something from a front bag when riding (thinking hard now) it will usually be light and or small. I think the whole giant front bag thing is overrated IMHO. How big does a bag have to be to qualify as giant? Would you consider a bag like the Berthoud GB28 giant? (Volume : 12L, Height: 270mm, Width without pockets: 270mm, Depth without front pocket: 145mm) http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/5027013765/in/set-72157603355855778/ This is a far cry from pizza deliver guy territory, and is a fine example of a large front handlebar bag. There's enough room for an O2 Rainshield rain jacket and eye glasses (plus tools, tubes, small camera, lunch, wallet and so on) and if I do have to take off my sun glasses or put on the rain jacket, I don't have to actually park the bike to do it; just stopping with both feet on the ground is enough. I used to think the get off every now and then thing made sense, too, until one time I did a century where it alternated between sprinkling, clearing up, darking and sprinkling again every five or ten miles all day long, and parking the bike and walking around to the back of the bike to change glasses simply drove me nuts. Of course, what really tore it was when I got a flat around 65 miles in, and couldn't get the tube to fit. I tried it every which way, and it was just plain too small. And yet, I could clearly see the -7 x 1 1/4 inch written on the tube (the first letter was just a blur). It took several minutes before I realized, the tube was a 17 x 1 1/4 tube from my Moulton... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com A billion stars go spinning through the night Blazing high above your head; But in you is the Presence that will be When all the stars are dead. (Rilke, Buddha in Glory) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
You can use a fixed cog on a fw hub as long as you don't skip stop with it. I've done many cheap old 10 sp conversions with 65 to 70 gear by simply redishing the rear wheel and installing a fixed cog instead of the cluster; no lockring or locktite, just grease and torque. My brother was riding fast down a steep hill with such a conversion, skipping merrily until the cog started spinning off backward; at which point he pedaled really fast to get it screwed on again. But if you avoid this -- use brakes -- you will be fine. On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 5:07 PM, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote: Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though. Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/ fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear side; it's a great way to go. Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-) Ron On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com A billion stars go spinning through the night Blazing high above your head; But in you is the Presence that will be When all the stars are dead. (Rilke, Buddha in Glory) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 9:53 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: You can use a fixed cog on a fw hub as long as you don't skip stop with it. I've done many cheap old 10 sp conversions with 65 to 70 gear by simply redishing the rear wheel and installing a fixed cog instead of the cluster; no lockring or locktite, just grease and torque. I forgot to add that, OTOH, if you have a choice, Ron is perfectly right -- no downside except a bit of cost. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I was planning on a Simpleone and then started talking to a custom builder and for a few reason decided to go that direction. Going to be a similar style bike- single speed, room for comfy tires and fenders, canti posts. Pretty cool to pick out the tubes, lugs, drop outs, etc. A first for me. Here is my build. A mix of new and old bits. Headset: chris king 1’ threaded Seatpost: Nitto Humble Seat Post Stem: Nitto Technomic Handlebars: Nitto North Road Saddle: Brooks B17 Anitque Brown Brake levers: Shimano XTR Brakes: shimano xt v-brakes Cranks: white industries eno Bottom Bracket: phil wood Wheels: phil wood/ mavic open pro Freewheel: white industries Tires: roly poly 700x 28 Pedals: MKS Touring Cant wait to see all the SO's. Cheers! cm -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
My first Riv, my first build of any kind. I'm a bit nervous. 56 CM SimpleOne designed to ride a 20 mile round trip commute over hills, in all weather, with a bag for stuff, as light, clean and cheap as possible. Interface ** Bars - Albatross on Nitto 11cm Technomic, stem with cork grips. If this doesn't work I'll try some down bars. Seat - Brooks B17 black Seat Post - yes Pedals - MKS Touring with Power Grips Brake - One front Tektro MTB with Tektro CR720 cantilevers Drivetrain ** Rear hub - Sturmey-Archer S2C two-speed kickback with coaster brake Cog - 17 tooth(?) Crank - TBD Wheels * May have Rich build these, or a local guy. Nothing special. Bolt On * Rack - Nitto Mini Front Bag - Some Rando style TBD. Fenders - SKS or if I can find some green painted fenders! Light - IXON IQ Speed That's it! Very curious and a bit nevous about the S-A S2C hub, hope it works.Any experience here with these or someone considering the same? Is there a rando bag that with work with Albatross bars? ~ Cheers, Jeff On May 14, 11:35 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com wrote: I've been riding fixed/fixed on the stock QB free/free for a couple years without incident. I use the rotafix method of affixing the cog. The bikeshop broke a chainwhip trying to remove one of my cogs after I'd traded the wheelset to a friend. A little rota-UN-fixing, and it came right off. The original and still the best explanation:http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm Philip Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com On May 13, 6:03 pm, rex jupiterthunderb...@yahoo.com wrote: on the contrary, ive been riding my quickbeam with a fixed/free setup on the free/free suzue hub, and so far zero problems. totally doable. the secret is in having two excellent brakes. obviously(?) much safer with a lockring but if yer not skidding to a stop i doubt it matters. got my advice from keven@riv and sheldonbrown.com. just my two cents. thanks for your time joe rex kelly On May 13, 7:07 pm, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote: Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though. Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/ fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear side; it's a great way to go. Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-) Ron On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
Photos and early ride descriptions when the time comes, please, especially wrt the S2C which I from time to time consider for a cop-out alternative wheel for my Riv fixies. I hankered after a S1 myself until the Herse put paid to that particular dream, at least for now -- it fills the role I had in mind for the S1, videlicet, an all-rounder, load carrying bike that is also fun to ride fast. Your build sounds perfectly reasonable, tho' I personally find any bar except a drop uncomfortable. I wonder how the S1 will handle with a front load? My other Rivs have been happiest with most of the weight in back. I bought the Herse for its putative (!!) front loading capacity -- hope to really test it once I get a porteur rack, God willing, later this week. On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 9:28 AM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote: My first Riv, my first build of any kind. I'm a bit nervous. 56 CM SimpleOne designed to ride a 20 mile round trip commute over hills, in all weather, with a bag for stuff, as light, clean and cheap as possible. Interface ** Bars - Albatross on Nitto 11cm Technomic, stem with cork grips. If this doesn't work I'll try some down bars. Seat - Brooks B17 black Seat Post - yes Pedals - MKS Touring with Power Grips Brake - One front Tektro MTB with Tektro CR720 cantilevers Drivetrain ** Rear hub - Sturmey-Archer S2C two-speed kickback with coaster brake Cog - 17 tooth(?) Crank - TBD Wheels * May have Rich build these, or a local guy. Nothing special. Bolt On * Rack - Nitto Mini Front Bag - Some Rando style TBD. Fenders - SKS or if I can find some green painted fenders! Light - IXON IQ Speed That's it! Very curious and a bit nevous about the S-A S2C hub, hope it works.Any experience here with these or someone considering the same? Is there a rando bag that with work with Albatross bars? ~ Cheers, Jeff -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
Patrick - Thanks for the heads up about the front loading - I hadn't considered that and am not married to a front bag. I'll consider a large saddle bag. I'm starting with the Alba bar 'cuz I have one here, and will try a Mustache and then drop if needed. I am also considering the S-A 3XS (fixed) and will post when I've got and ridden either one. So many excellent choices! Suggestions welcome - new to this stuff, really. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
Perhaps foolishly I built my two R iv Roads with Phil ti bbs. I asked Phil if they will stand up to 170 lb pushing a 70 or 75 gear up steep hills. The man who replied said that they are used by track sprinters and will easily stand up to my paltry efforts -- he put it more politely than that. In any event, one now has well over 10,000 miles on it, the second almost 7,000, and no problems so far. FWIW, I can't feel more flex on them than on my steel Phil or for that matter the 110 or so Isis on the Monocog I used to own, tho' I am not claiming the latter AREN'T stiffer. Sent from my iPhone On May 13, 2011, at 11:22 PM, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote: Not that I'm anti-Ti or anything, but after using a bunch of Ti- spindled square-tapered BB, including the White Industries version, I would recommend against them unless you're trying to break some sort of weight record (and clearly with Phil Wood hubs, you're not). Ti- spindled square-tapered BBs are very flexy even at my size and weight (5'10, 140+lb then) so I hate to think how much more flexy it will be for someone who rides a 58cm frame. The upside of a steel spindle, apart from being nicely stiffer, is that it's cheaper. Tubes? I would go for Schwalbe's. They're of noticeably higher quality (more uniform and with nice reinforcements) and seem to hold pressure longer. On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
The WI Ti BB is one of the few parts I already had.. that and the dirt drop stem and the urban platforms. So I'll see how it feels, and replace if too flexy. But ya I'm 190#, 5'11, and I'll generate some torque. Should be a good test of the BB. :) Best, andrew On May 13, 2011, at 10:22 PM, benzzoy wrote: Not that I'm anti-Ti or anything, but after using a bunch of Ti- spindled square-tapered BB, including the White Industries version, I would recommend against them unless you're trying to break some sort of weight record (and clearly with Phil Wood hubs, you're not). Ti- spindled square-tapered BBs are very flexy even at my size and weight (5'10, 140+lb then) so I hate to think how much more flexy it will be for someone who rides a 58cm frame. The upside of a steel spindle, apart from being nicely stiffer, is that it's cheaper. Tubes? I would go for Schwalbe's. They're of noticeably higher quality (more uniform and with nice reinforcements) and seem to hold pressure longer. On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) -- -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I've been riding fixed/fixed on the stock QB free/free for a couple years without incident. I use the rotafix method of affixing the cog. The bikeshop broke a chainwhip trying to remove one of my cogs after I'd traded the wheelset to a friend. A little rota-UN-fixing, and it came right off. The original and still the best explanation: http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On May 13, 6:03 pm, rex jupiterthunderb...@yahoo.com wrote: on the contrary, ive been riding my quickbeam with a fixed/free setup on the free/free suzue hub, and so far zero problems. totally doable. the secret is in having two excellent brakes. obviously(?) much safer with a lockring but if yer not skidding to a stop i doubt it matters. got my advice from keven@riv and sheldonbrown.com. just my two cents. thanks for your time joe rex kelly On May 13, 7:07 pm, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote: Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though. Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/ fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear side; it's a great way to go. Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-) Ron On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though. Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/ fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear side; it's a great way to go. Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-) Ron On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I have my 60cm on order and have many of the parts I will use for it on a converted old Raleigh. I have a 16/19 freewheel and 36/39 chainrings along with Sugino crank arms, Nitto bar and stem with brake levers, B17, Old Campagnolo seat post, SKS fenders, Panaracer 35mm tires etc. I'll be getting some tape, brakes and wheels and will build my own racks. On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
on the contrary, ive been riding my quickbeam with a fixed/free setup on the free/free suzue hub, and so far zero problems. totally doable. the secret is in having two excellent brakes. obviously(?) much safer with a lockring but if yer not skidding to a stop i doubt it matters. got my advice from keven@riv and sheldonbrown.com. just my two cents. thanks for your time joe rex kelly On May 13, 7:07 pm, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote: Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though. Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/ fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear side; it's a great way to go. Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-) Ron On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate. You think.. nice! A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K. I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that bad... feels totally justifiable. And this one is a single speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense... And then you start choosing parts. Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet. : / 58cm SimpleOne Interface: -- Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm) Newbaums Orange Dirt drop stem (10cm) Brooks Special, Honey Nitto S-84 seatpost White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips. Wheelset --- Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross rear), brass nipples. Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35 Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t 3/32 single-speed chain Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm) Stoptrain --- Sram S500 road levers Jagwire brake cables Tektro CR720 cantilevers Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything? I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for those cranks and bb. The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle. Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker pannier rack if i can find one. Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t... Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? Best, Andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
I've got one on order since January... 62 cm Interface: --- bars/stem TBD Depends on the fit. I have a couple of drops and one old MTB bar and assorted stems in the parts bin. One combo will work. I'm leaning toward some sort of drops. Nitto Humble Seatpost Saddle - got a couple of them ready Grip King pedals Wheelset --- Front - Suntour Superbe Pro '86 32 hole laced to Mavic MA-40 Rear - Dura Ace track hub, not built yet, gotta get going on that Tires - something around 35mm Drivetrain BB - latest from Riv says it's included, otherwise Superbe Pro '86 if the spindle is the right length Crank - probably '73 Dura-Ace (130 BCD) I have 39/44 on it now. alternate is specialized triple from an '86 stumpjumper (110/74) second alternate is '86 Superbe Pro, but the 144 BCD is too big so it's unlikely FW - probably a White ind, haven't decided between single or double Chain - yep I'm likely to put a guard from BBGbashguard.com on the outer of the crank. After I settle on the crank. Brakes --- Tektro CR720 - in my cart at Riv in another browser tab Levers - Superbe pro if I have Drop bars, Tektro if I use MTB size bars cables/housing/hangers - Yes Bolt-on - Rear rack, probably a blackburn from about '91 Front rack - Plescher Front basket - Wald the smaller one Riv sells Lights - I like the 3xAAA tactical led flashlight from Costco, mounted to the bars with a two-fish block or crossed hose clamps. I use NiMh batteries and have chargers at home and work. I still need the brakes, chain, Freewheel, and to get the rear wheel built. I might need to fiddle a little with the BB length. Everything else is ready to go. I may start with a cheaper freewheel and get a White once I'm happy with the gearing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming
Not that I'm anti-Ti or anything, but after using a bunch of Ti- spindled square-tapered BB, including the White Industries version, I would recommend against them unless you're trying to break some sort of weight record (and clearly with Phil Wood hubs, you're not). Ti- spindled square-tapered BBs are very flexy even at my size and weight (5'10, 140+lb then) so I hate to think how much more flexy it will be for someone who rides a 58cm frame. The upside of a steel spindle, apart from being nicely stiffer, is that it's cheaper. Tubes? I would go for Schwalbe's. They're of noticeably higher quality (more uniform and with nice reinforcements) and seem to hold pressure longer. On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Drivetrain --- White Industries Ti BB (113mm) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
