Re: [TANKS] Raspberry Pi + Linux + Xbox360 = new prototype vehicle

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work, Doug. What's the effective range of the Bluetooth controller?
Also like the use of the Maestro to offload servo and ESC control. The
hobby electronics world has come a long way since T001 was built.

On Sun, Apr 1, 2018, 9:13 AM Doug Conn  wrote:

> Hello -
>
> I've been working on a new vehicle for a long, long time ! I finally have
> the control system and a prototype chassis running. It's a small hull with
> an on-board Raspberry Pi running Ubuntu Mate and driven with an XBox360
> Bluetooth controller.
>
> Check it out here:
> http://agilebotics.net/mystery-vehicle/
>
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Where is everyone?

[Frank Pittelli]

Nothing nefarious, just incompetence. The domain registry changed my
accounts without telling me and screwed up the automatic renewal. It will
take them 24-48 hours to fix the problem.

On Jan 2, 2018 5:21 PM, "Derek Engelhaupt"  wrote:

> I'm showing it not resolving also...
>
> On Tue, Jan 2, 2018 at 3:46 PM, J-MaxRC  wrote:
>
>> Is it only us or the RC tank warfare website is down??
>>
>> J-MaxRC
>>
>> On Jan 1, 2018 1:24 PM, "Derek Engelhaupt"  wrote:
>>
>>> I've been playing more in the world of 1/16 scale since its more common
>>> here in Texas. As far as an R/C interface goes I've been playing with an
>>> open source  board from Open Panzer called the TCB. It interfaces with
>>> external ESCs and can use SBUS or PWM inputs.  I recently bought a Taranis
>>> Q X7 SBUS radio to play with it. Only issue using it on a large tank would
>>> be input power needs to be under 15V.  A small 7.2 NiCD pack works great
>>> since that's what it was designed for. Boards are being sold through
>>> HobbyKing for $50.
>>>
>>> On Dec 31, 2017 8:52 PM, "Caleb Smith" <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 I'm afraid the lack of battles is my fault. The Smith clan gave the
 Pitteli bag'o ruffians such a thrashing in that last event that they've
 been hiding in their basements ever since, refusing to fight. Sorry guys.

 On a side note, the Smith clan hasn't expanded its arsenal since last
 event. (with the lack of opposition why should we) The Locust still needs
 some driveline help. I tried switching to different motors for more torque
 but they're way too fast and need a lot of gearing down to be practical.
 Since then I've found that the reason the original motors were stalling
 often is they don't like the HobbyKing brushless controllers I was using. I
 tested them using a brushless scooter controller and the motors have loads
 more torque and don't stall. I just need to configure some kind of control
 interface since they're not RC controllers. Maybe I'll start another thread
 on that. So I'll be working on putting the old motors back in.
 The 25 pounder is still ready to defend the homeland. The Pak36 will
 probably be converted into some kind of turreted German naval gun as the
 Pak36 was too hard to fit and hide a lot of the stuff.
 Anyway, that's a little bit of what's going on. Looking back, I'm OK
 with not having any battles this year. The tank was in disrepair and time
 was limited. This year should be better plus I'll have a bigger budget to
 put towards gear.  Hopefully we'll all see each other come spring and make
 more memories.
 Don't stay up too late. ;)
 Agent Smith

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Re: [TANKS] tank battles in 2018 ?

[Frank Pittelli]

Let me know what dates you have available and I'll check with everyone 
down here to see what works for them.  Your schedule is probably the 
limit function at this point.


On 11/27/2017 2:24 PM, Joe Sommer wrote:

Will we have any battles in 2018?
My calendar is filling quickly.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Pin Drop...

[Frank Pittelli]

The web site problem has been resolved by the service provider.

On 7/12/2017 8:41 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:

Looks like a database problem on the web server where the site is
hosted. I'll take a look at it sometime this weekend.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Pin Drop...

[Frank Pittelli]

Looks like a database problem on the web server where the site is 
hosted.  I'll take a look at it sometime this weekend.


On 7/12/2017 4:42 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:

They user's vehicles are missing from all the categories and not just
the tanks


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Re: [TANKS] Re: An Era is OVER!

[Frank Pittelli]

Indeed, the Hetzer (T010) is on a record-setting pace to sit atop the 
Career High Points "Earned" category.  Based on recent battles, the 
Hetzer should claim that prize sometime during the next 3 or 4 events, 
assuming that (a) the Tiger doesn't come out of retirement and (b) the 
Hetzer can be kept operational that long by Penn State graduate students 
funded by Federal grants.


Combined with it's already impressive Career High Points "Given" top 
position (which it has secured forever), that would make the Hetzer 
simultaneously both the most "desired" and most "undesired" asset when 
picking teams. Truly an amazing statistical achievement.


I'm sure that the Pennsylvania Urbane Fighting Force (PUFF) is proud of 
the glorious achievements of their best asset and will continue to 
follow the Hetzer into glorious defeat against the ever improving and 
deadly fleet of Tri-Pact vehicles, funded the old fashioned way by 
pillage, plunder and, of course, a well-funded endowment from shadowy 
private organizations.


On 2/21/2017 8:30 AM, Joe Sommer wrote:

Battle points for the brave little Hetzer (165,164) recently surpassed
the mighty Cromwell (162,975) to claw its way into second place.  The
sad decrepit old Tiger T001 is already retired.


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Re: [TANKS] An Era is OVER!

[Frank Pittelli]

The Tri-Pact Foundation has always been a completely transparent 
organization focused on improving the lives of people around the globe. 
 Tri-Pact provides detailed reports of all activities conducted 
throughout the world, including detailed accounting of assets used 
during those operations and rewards from those campaigns.  Aside from 
paying for normal executive and operational expenses, all monies earned 
through Tri-Pact operations are donated to a vast array of charity 
organizations, including the Tri-Pact Benevolence Society, Wounded R/C 
Battlers, and Make a Wish in Vegas, to name just a few.


And when it comes to social causes, Tri-Pact has always been vocal in 
our support.  Over a decade ago, Tri-Pact was the only R/C super-power 
to support gender neutral bathrooms by allowing all combatants to use 
the same tree.  Just last year, Tri-Pact arranged for two Canadian 
refugees to come to the U.S. and participate alongside of real battlers. 
 Despite threats of violence from the Pennsylvania Urban Fighting Force 
(PUFF) and the ultra-radical Smith Clan, the two refugees enjoyed a 
short respite from their otherwise dreary lives up north.


It's a shame when radical groups like PUFF and SC simply want to tear 
down an organization like Tri-Pact that has a long track record of 
making the world a better place.


Feel free to ask whatever questions you want answered and we will 
provide you with detailed answers.


On 2/18/2017 4:24 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

The R/C Tank Combat public has a right to know this important information !

If it weren’t for patriots like Caleb ‘WikiLeaks’ Smith, TriPact
big-wigs and their corporate cronies would their iron fists to grip
their iron brooms and sweep this information under their iron rugs.

-Doug


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Re: [TANKS] An Era is OVER!

[Frank Pittelli]

A close examination of the so-called "fuel cell" in the photo reveals 
that it is actually a multi-stage sandwich of tin and surplus government 
cheese.  When a DC voltage is applied across the tin plates, the surplus 
government cheese melts and oozes out.  SCC engineers were apparently 
attempting to make a battle-field grilled cheese machine, but forgot to 
incorporate bread slices.  Such an oversight is understandable given 
their intolerance of gluten, but it remains to be seen if their cheese 
melting machine will become a popular food preparation product.


On 2/17/2017 9:18 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

After talking with SCC engineers, it was revealed that the cell is
part of a multi-component powerplant for the SCC's main asset, the
Locust.


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Re: [TANKS] Best pitch chain and sprocket for the Trans

[Frank Pittelli]

Both #25 and #35 chain have been used effectively in operational tanks for
transmissions.  Just make sure that they are tensioned properly to prevent
throwing the chain off when the motors first start up. Always design some
sort of adjustment into your system, even if it requires a little extra
work.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: 32 channel servo controller

[Frank Pittelli]

Indeed.  The primary reasons for developing the C6C and C12C product 
lines over 10 years ago were to (a) reduce the cost of tank combat 
electronics and (b) allow use of the highly ergonomic game pad.  To that 
end, those products were very successful, being used by over 500 
hobbyists around the world, with only a handful of issues ever reported.


But, electronic products have a finite lifetime and 10 years is a "long" 
run in such worlds.  When the C6C was born, 2.4Ghz radios cost a couple 
hundred dollars.  Now, you can get a 2.4Ghz TX and RX for less than $40. 
 The 32 servo game pad based controller referenced in this thread is 
another example, with a complete solution about 1/2 that of a C12C, game 
pad and serial interface.  Finally, there are quite a few "free" 
solutions from the various microprocessor worlds (Arduino, etc) that 
support game pads and control servos and motors.


All of those products reduce the cost of tank combat even further and 
some of them support game pads as well, thereby eliminating the need 
(and demand) for the C12C.  Time spent producing and maintaining the 
C12C can now be focused on the next line of revolutionary products ... 
but that's another discussion.


On 12/5/2016 5:49 PM, Joe Sommer wrote:

Apparently Cheap Control Systems (CCS) can no longer compete with cheap
Chinese stuff (CCS).

Joe (designed and built the original C6C)


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Suspension swing arms

[Frank Pittelli]

Are you referring to the PzKpfw VI-I Tiger Aus "FR"?  They only made a 
single vehicle of that model at the end of the war because they ran out 
of axles.  Fortunately, a brilliant German engineer determined that by 
reconfiguring the road wheels, they could get the "Letzte Tiger", as it 
was nicknamed, onto the battlefield.  Little else is documented about 
the Last Tiger. Legends say that it fought gallantly in the streets of 
Berlin in the final days of the war and was never defeated.  It was 
apparently hidden in a bombed out building and was later scrapped to 
build a number of VW buses driven by hippy U.S. college professors in 
the 1970's.


On 11/1/2016 8:08 AM, Joe Sommer wrote:

At least you have the correct number for the left side
unlike an unnamed old decrepit Tiger that never had
the correct number of road wheels on either side.


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Re: [TANKS] Door lock actuator pulse time, current draw

[Frank Pittelli]

Depends on the load being moved.  A 100ms pulse is sufficient to pull a 
manual marker trigger. For lighter loads, a 50ms pulse may work just as 
well.


We never measured the stall current of an actuator motor.  We just know 
that, like most small motors, if you stall them for too long the 
windings will melt.


On 9/9/2016 4:08 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

Is 100 ms the latest thinking on door lock actuator pulse time?
Any idea what current the actuator draws at stall?


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Re: [TANKS] motor choice

[Frank Pittelli]

Yes. That's a perfect motor for our scale vehicles.

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Re: [TANKS] Mitch and Paul made a video about the battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Just send me the "specs" for the vehicle (Type, Built, Call Sign, Notes, 
etc) and the thumbnail photo in a private email and I'll create a page 
for you.


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Re: [TANKS] Digest for rctankcombat@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

[Frank Pittelli]

No problem.  Jean and Xavier represented Canada quite well in their 
first battles.


On 8/23/2016 10:09 AM, Robert Currie wrote:

Would it be ok if I posted this up on the CTD Barbarian page on Facebook?


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Re: [TANKS] Mitch and Paul made a video about the battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work.

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Re: [TANKS] A Great Day

[Frank Pittelli]

Very good. I'll remember to add acetone to my toolkit :-)

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Re: [TANKS] A Great Day

[Frank Pittelli]

Correction: Don't leave an unmarked bottle of CA that looks like a bottle
of oil when Frank is rebuilding your marker and is almost done!
Fortunately, we carry many spares.

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Re: [TANKS] Rookie primer

[Frank Pittelli]

Plan on arriving around 9am.

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RE: [TANKS] Rookie primer

[Frank Pittelli]

LMAO. By far the best example of why our hobby is so much more interesting
than a video game!

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[TANKS] Asset Recovery Team

[Frank Pittelli]

Journalists recently revealed that the Obama Administration secretly 
sent $400M in cash to Iran back in January as part of some bizarre deal. 
 What they failed to reveal, however, was that the money was 
transported to Iran by the M520 Goer.  Apparently, the Administration 
decided to lease a reliable, commercial vehicle for the covert operation 
and turned to Tri-Pact Shipping and Hauling, who were more than happy to 
accept a small percentage of the cargo in exchange for their discrete 
services.  Unfortunately, after unloading the cargo, the Iranians 
decided to confiscate the Goer as well.  Tri-Pact was not happy about 
the double-cross!


The whereabouts of the Goer were unknown for a couple of months, until 
it turned up at a Denny's outside of York PA.  Tri-Pact investigators 
determined that Iran had given the vehicle to the notorious Pennsylvania 
Urban Fighting Force (PUFF), an ultra-militant, mostly academic, social 
awareness organization, as part of the Iranian "Let's All Be Terrorists" 
community building project.  PUFF, in turn, loaned the vehicle to the 
equally notorious "Smith Clan", a mysterious family of chicken farmers, 
who apparently was using it to deliver black market chicken parts.


Based on extensive surveillance of PUFF and Smith Clan communications 
(obtained from some Russian hackers for a couple of bucks), the Tri-Pact 
Institute of Technology (TIT) analysts have determined that the Goer 
will be delivering chicken parts to a farm outside of Gettysburg this 
coming weekend as part of some training of outside agitators from the 
foreign provinces of Nova Scotia and California.


Based on that information, Tri-Pact will be sending a well-armed Fast 
Asset Recovery Team (FART) to recover the stolen asset, using whatever 
force is necessary to subdue any enemy forces in the area.  The team 
consists of a number of silent, but deadly killers, led by Will "It 
Wasn't Me" Montgomery and John "Pull My Finger" Pittelli.  Civilians 
living in the area should stay in their homes, with all doors and 
windows sealed.  The Goer is expected to be back in the Tri-Pact Motor 
Pool by Sunday evening.


In a related story, my wife informed me that she will be sending along a 
large pot of baked beans for the cookout. Bon Appetite.


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Re: [TANKS] Gettysburg weather

[Frank Pittelli]

Thunderstorms typically roll through after 4pm so our battles should not be
impacted.

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Re: [TANKS] "The Tank Farm" in Nokesville, VA, 24 - 25 September 2016

[Frank Pittelli]

Sounds like we have a couple people interested in attending, but let's
powwow at the battle before confirming.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: suggestion to help newcomers

[Frank Pittelli]

Bazooka Joe needs to learn to listen for the "I'm dead, I'm dead" chant
recited by battlers making the walk of shame back to home base.  Besides, I
don't think many battlers have sympathy for the "invincible" Bazooka Joe.
So be careful when asking for rule changes :-)

On Aug 5, 2016 1:42 PM, "Mike Lyons"  wrote:

> Excellent idea!
> I suggest the flags be easily removable so a "dead" tank is clearly
> identified.
> In the past Bazooka Joe has wasted valuable time shooting at tanks
> returning to base with the operator some distance away.
>
>
> On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 10:14:01 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:
>>
>> Maybe something like a commanders flag?  some wire duct taped to the tank
>> with a  team color at the top?  say a thin piano wire maybe. Marking the
>> operator might not work as well when the melees occur.
>>
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Re: [TANKS] RSVP: 3-5 spectators for next week's battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Sounds like a good plan.  See you next weekend.  Based on the number of
battlers coming, it will be the largest RC Tank Battle Ever Held In The
World!  A good chance to see history in the making.

On Aug 5, 2016 1:44 PM, "Stu Cameron"  wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
>
>   After rock-climbing near Gettysburg on Friday 12 August, my teenage
> sons, another Boy Scout leader and her son would like to see the Battle on
> the way home.  We'll sleep at the Red Roof Inn (or on the Appalachian
> Trail), consolidate into one SUV for the ride to the farm, everyone
> will bring their own goggles and lunch.
>
>
>   No assets to field.  ...M4A1, M5A1 and M8 HMC are still in pieces.
>
>
> Stu Cameron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: suggestion to help newcomers

[Frank Pittelli]

On Aug 3, 2016 9:24 AM, "Mitch Anderson"  wrote:
>
> How many balls should we bring?

1000 rounds should be plenty.

> Where we get CO2 refills?  How many bottles of CO2 should we have?

We will have large cylinders at the field to fill CO2 bottles. Most people
only have one bottle per vehicle, because it doesn't take long to refill
them.

> Where do we get power for re-charging the tank? Should we have a setup to
charge it from our car?

The farm house has power.

> Is there a local motel where more tankers congregate?

Not really. Joe Sommer recommends motels outside of Gettysburg itself,
because the motels in town are more expensive.

> Should we bring camping chairs? Blankets to lay ?

We'll have extra chairs, so no need to bring any.

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Re: [TANKS] "The Tank Farm" in Nokesville, VA, 24 - 25 September 2016

[Frank Pittelli]

Sunday the 25th is clear on my calendar as well.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Centurion mrk 5

[Frank Pittelli]

By "stress test", I think he means something like driving full speed over
an obstacle that generates a lot of dynamic stress on the parts, such as in
this video:

https://youtu.be/qkO4s0F5AyQ

Driving on flat surfaces with a heavy load is a good test, but driving into
and over things at full speed is the ultimate test of a vehicle :--)

On Aug 2, 2016 1:25 AM, "Niels Erik Kristensen"  wrote:

> The turret are made of fiberglass. And i have made several strestests :
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qGgA0uKl-o
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> Den tirsdag den 2. august 2016 kl. 04.10.10 UTC+2 skrev jvragu47:
>>
>> Looks very nice.  For your next video, how about a little stress test of
>> the suspension please? Thank you.
>>
>> On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 5:22:30 PM UTC-4, Niels Erik Kristensen
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Now i have tested my PLA printed Centurion over 2 months, and there are
>>> no sign of damage on the mowing parts ( gears and tracks) Here are a video
>>> from a event where i was driving in front of spectators for fun:
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEo3s8yDLEA=youtu.be
>>>
>>> Den tirsdag den 19. april 2016 kl. 08.39.21 UTC+2 skrev Niels Erik
>>> Kristensen:

 Pla are strongere than ABS-But not elastic. Its almost like the cast
 iron of plastic. Make a solid 4-5mm pla part and se for yourself. ABS
 stinks when printet-And wrap alot during the printing. In Denmark where i
 live,high temperature are rare. And if one parts break i can easyly print a
 new one.
 By the way-Wood are also bio degradeable-And it will degrade faster
 than PLA-Maby paintball filled with termittes will work better :-)


 Den tirsdag den 19. april 2016 kl. 08.26.25 UTC+2 skrev Niels Erik
 Kristensen:
>
> Most of my parts are printet with 99% infill-Ore vith 2mm walls and 20
> % infil
>
> Den tirsdag den 19. april 2016 kl. 01.42.45 UTC+2 skrev Caleb Smith:
>>
>> What you have to worry more about PLA is its warpage in the heat.
>> PLA parts will begin to warp if left in a hot car or possibly just 
>> leaving
>> your tank in the sun. Printing with ABS will eliminate warpage and yield
>> stronger parts, but for true durability you should look into nylon.
>
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Re: [TANKS] loader design

[Frank Pittelli]

Very nice!!

Since you are using a stepper and micro processor, have you considered
using a spiral auger to move the paintballs from the hopper to the marker?
That would ensure no broken balls and 100% loading accuracy. You can
probably make all the parts with your 3D printer.

On Jul 29, 2016 11:45 PM, "Doug Conn"  wrote:

> Hello –
>
>
>
> A couple of weeks ago John asked what we’ve been up to. My work has been
> insane during the last year, but I’ve had a little time to work on a new
> project. It’s a marker and loading system that I plan to install in Small
> Fry. Someday. I was shooting for a low-profile, small system. Here are a
> couple of videos.
>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/oh6uJ9zMPOk
>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/Ot8O-nX3qCI
>
>
>
> The videos show an early test of the loader system. The marker is a
> Dangerous Power E1. A stepper motor pulls back a ram using a rack and
> pinion mechanism, allowing a paintball to fall into a loading chamber. The
> stepper motor then advances the ram about 75% of the distance used to cock
> it. At that point, power to the stepper is cut and a spring moves the ram
> the rest of the way and applies pressure to push the paintball into marker
> when the bolt opens. I may be able to use a standard DC motor instead of a
> stepper (similar to how an airsoft gun cocks and loads), but I need some
> kind of clever clutch to slow the ram so it doesn’t puncture the paintball.
> The stepper gives me a lot of fine position control.
>
>
>
> For elevation, the marker pivots on the feed mechanism, so there’s no
> issue with mis-alignment of the feed port at different elevations. The
> whole system is currently driven from a Raspberry Pi2 running windows IoT.
> There are SUPPOSED to be IoT X-BOX 360 wireless drivers available so I can
> control the whole tank from a 360 controller. Those drivers are bugged
> right now, though. If someone wants to help me re-write them, speak up !
>
>
>
> -  Doug
>
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RE: [TANKS] Re: August Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

I can receive shipments the week of Aug 8-12 and can bring them to the
battle site on Saturday morning in my trailer. Send me a private message
for my address and tell me the carrier being used.

On Jul 27, 2016 6:32 PM, "Loic"  wrote:

> Joe,
>
>
>
> For those ‘flying in’, can we have a place to send the tanks “in a box”.
> Would some members who are close to the battle site volunteer their
> addresses? They don’t necessarily need to transport those tanks to the
> battlefield, and the tank owner can pick up the tank beforehand maybe?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Loic
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: August Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

See Joe's response and send him a private email at the given PSU address to
get directions to the farm.

On Jul 27, 2016 5:42 PM, "Mitch Anderson" <haralamb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am coming with my son Paul, 15 yr old, not a beer drinker
>
> Also , I wonder if there is a favorite motel where the tankers are
> staying. Can you recommend one for all of us? It would be fun.
>
> Also, how do we get there?
>
> Thanks
>
> PS The E-10 is ready,
>
>
> On Monday, July 25, 2016 at 5:45:07 PM UTC-7, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>>
>> The August tank battle in Gettysburg is a couple weeks away and we'd like
>> to get a good count on the number of people coming so we can bring the
>> right amount of food and drinks. So, if you are coming to the event, please
>> reply to this post with the total number of people coming with you.
>
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[TANKS] August Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

The August tank battle in Gettysburg is a couple weeks away and we'd like to 
get a good count on the number of people coming so we can bring the right 
amount of food and drinks. So, if you are coming to the event, please reply to 
this post with the total number of people coming with you.

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Re: [TANKS] New weapons platform

[Frank Pittelli]

Furry Lives Matter

On Jul 19, 2016 4:49 PM, "Mike Lyons"  wrote:

> Lyons Labs has developed the Rocket Launcher, M20A1B1C1D1 0.68 inch
> on behalf of our client the National Union of Traumatized Squirrels
> in response to the recent deadly attack
> .
>
> While unwilling to identify any suspects by name
> our client did ask us to pay particular attention to the video at the 1:35
> mark.
> Our bazooka operators have been warned accordingly.
>
>
> On Sunday, July 17, 2016 at 8:06:13 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:
>>
>> ... They also uncovered the latest asset from Mr. Lyons and Co.  Herr
>> General, I believe that we need a ruling on this new weapons platform.
>> Since they are willing to work for peanuts, this could severely impact the
>> balance of power. No longer will combatants be required to spend vast sums
>> of money to keep pace with Tri-Pact.
>>
> ...
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Upcoming Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Mr. Smith (assuming that's your real name),

Please be advised that it is still winter in Canada.  You may want to 
consider having your agents wait further south of the wall and intercept 
the Northern Barbarians as they come south for a holiday weekend in 
balmy Pennsylvania.


In addition to your operations, Tri-Pact ASM will be sending a team of 
well-trained retrievers to Maine over the next couple weeks to search 
for missing asset.  We intend to live off the land (aka. lobster rolls) 
as much as possible.


Security is a never ending task.

Frank Pittelli
Director, Asset Management Division
Tri-Pact International

On 7/15/2016 5:44 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

We have dispatched agents to Canada in an attempt to uncover evidence
that would lead us to the suspect. We will inform you further as we
progress in this area.


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Re: [TANKS] Upcoming Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

"using the time to perfect their weapon platforms" ???

I'm just hoping that the Semovente can still drive around.  Shooting 
things will be a bonus :-)


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Re: [TANKS] TURRET TARGET LOCK USING HELI TAIL LOCK GYRO

[Frank Pittelli]

Looks like a good start. Will be interesting to see it working with the gun.

On 6/3/2016 2:18 PM, Robert Currie wrote:

Purchased all electronics from Servo City ...I talked with someone there
...explained what I would like to do ..and they told me it was not
possible and that without using a servo the Gyro would not work ...Well
I think it works just fineThey also told me that the motor
controller I purchased was no longer available ..kinda sucks because it
works so well and was not very costly ..I guess thats what you get
purchasing things over a ten year period lol

This is where I am at so far
Cheers
THE CTD BARBARIAN TESTING FACILITY ROSEDALE BRITISH COLUMBIA​
IMG_1075.m4v



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[TANKS] Re: August Tank Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Looks like August 13-14 works for almost everyone (one possible 
conflict) so we're going to lock that in for the next battle in 
Gettysburg.  With a number of invaders coming from North and West, the 
locals will probably have their hands full loading an endless supply of 
paint balls :-)


On 5/19/2016 10:55 AM, Frank Pittelli wrote:

For those out-of-towners who are interested, we're planning on holding a
tank battle on the weekend of August 13-14 in Gettysburg, PA. If you're
planning on attending, please let us know if that date works for you and
we'll lock it down.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: E-10 Jagdpanzer FOA Tank

[Frank Pittelli]

New tanks and battlers always have a strong tendency to break down 
during a real battle on a real battlefield.  Even if all the mechanical 
parts work properly and a skilled video-game jockey is on the controls, 
adrenaline and lack of battle experience can still cause fatal mistakes. 
 Basically, nothing goes as planned during a battle, for both veterans 
and newbies alike.


On 5/23/2016 12:50 PM, Loic atFOA wrote:

Be warned "RC Combat Tankers" from the East Coast... the West Coast
might decide of who will be elected to the highest office

Video proof is attached... and a 16-yr-old might prove me right <
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8cMrZ2kszw=youtu.be >

Cheers from Utah/California
Loic, Mitch and Paul


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[TANKS] August Tank Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

For those out-of-towners who are interested, we're planning on holding a 
tank battle on the weekend of August 13-14 in Gettysburg, PA.  If you're 
planning on attending, please let us know if that date works for you and 
we'll lock it down.


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Re: [TANKS] May Battle?

[Frank Pittelli]

Sorry to say that there is currently nothing scheduled for the spring 
due to various family medical issues during the late winter/early 
spring. To my knowledge, all those issues have been resolved, so I'll 
check with the regulars and see if we can schedule a weekend battle 
sometime during the summer.


On 5/11/2016 7:19 AM, Caleb Smith wrote:

Are we having a battle this month?  Just wondering so I can get my ducks in a 
row.

C



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Re: [TANKS] Re: relay switching

[Frank Pittelli]

You probably won't find such a relay, but you can easily drive a 12v 
relay coil from a 3.7v signal using a simple transistor, as shown in the 
attached circuit.  The specific transistor to be used depends on the max 
draw of the relay coil, which is typically less than 1A for inexpensive 
12V automotive relays.  The flyback diode shown in the circuit 
suppresses the reverse-voltage electrical pulse generated by the relay 
coil when it is deactivated.


Best of all, transistors and diodes are cheap and they don't go boom if 
you wire things wrong ... they just release some magic smoke.  So, they 
are perfect for teaching basic electronics and soldering.  Add an 
inexpensive indicator LED and resistor across the relay coil to add user 
feedback.  Replace the flyback diode by an LED (oriented opposite to the 
indicator LED) and you can see the reverse-voltage electrical pulse when 
the relay coil is deactivated. A perfect electro-mechanical project for 
beginners.


On 4/15/2016 6:57 AM, 'neroc1' via R/C Tank Combat wrote:

I would still like to find a relay that has a coil operating at 3.7v
that actuates a 12v circuit, just for simplicity


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Centurion mrk 5

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work. Glad to see someone is using a 3D printer to build things 
that actually work :-)


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Re: [TANKS] Gettysburg battle

[Frank Pittelli]

I sent you the information on Feb 2nd.  I'll resend the email with the info.

On 3/11/2016 3:13 PM, Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre wrote:

And not sure if I had trouble with my email or something but I did not
receive my username and password for the RC tank page to show my work...
I did contact Frank Pittelli directly but I don't seem to have receive
any answer... I sure that this mis-comunication will be solve easely

> so I can show you more snow plowing!!!...

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Re: [TANKS] relay switching

[Frank Pittelli]

It's a relatively simple matter to use a transistor to switch a 12V 
relay coil using any voltage over 1.5v. Connect the input signal to the 
transistor base and connect the relay coil to +12V on one side (doesn't 
matter which side) and the other side of the relay coil to transistor 
collector.  Finally, connect the transistor emitter to the common ground 
(tie the ground used by the input voltage to the ground used by the +12V 
source).


*BUT*, it's highly likely that the circuit used in the toy tank 
generates a PWM signal on the lines going to the motors.  That is, one 
of the lines is ground (when going in one direction) and the other line 
is a square wave that oscillates between +3V and ground to regulate the 
speed of the motor.  And, when running in reverse, the lines are 
switched.  Even if the circuit isn't generating a PWM signal, it is 
still switching the polarity of the motor wires for forward and reverse. 
 So, there's no simple re-wiring that would allow you to "upscale" the 
outputs.


You could, however, get a generic H-bridge and then use the output of 
the circuit as the input to the H-bridge.  That solution is probably 
more expensive than you'd like, but it should be possible.


On 2/17/2016 9:47 AM, 'neroc1' via R/C Tank Combat wrote:

I have bought a couple of cheep toy tanks, just out if curiosity really.
they have a 2.4 G TX that takes 2X AA`s and a small 3.7v  lithium in the
tank. Im actually quite impressed with the range/control of the little
fellas. they have a run time of about 20-30 minutes then its a usb
re-charge. they even have a little sound board making tank noises, inc
cannon/ machine gun/ engine.
The only thing that lets these tanks down is the machanical build
quality.the tracks fall off all the time.
What I am wondering is if the electronics could be "up powered" to
trigger 12v relays, I have searched t`interweb for many hours never
finding any clue if a 12v relay can be triggered by a 3.7v source.
Does anybody know of such a relay or solution ?
Much appreciated

Neil R

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Re: [TANKS] Re: snow

[Frank Pittelli]

Just send me the basic information about the vehicle (type, armament, 
armor and call sign) and I'll create an account that you can use to post 
photos and build details.


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Re: [TANKS] snow

[Frank Pittelli]

We got 18 inches of snowfall over a 34 hour period, with 3 to 4 ft drifts
in some places. Sunny and cold today. Time to shovel out everything 
On Jan 24, 2016 8:57 AM, "Joe Sommer"  wrote:

>
> How deep is the snow in the Land of Pleasant Living and the City of
> Brotherly Love?
>
> Joe
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Frank Pittelli]

I don't think I've heard or seen anyone using 2040 chain for tracks, so 
not really sure how well or not that design would work.


Back in the early days of the hobby, Mike Blattau used #40 attachment 
links with riveted plastic track pads to build a track for a lightweight 
vehicle.  He used a single chain for each track, with standard #40 drive 
and idler sprockets.  Unfortunately, he never tested the completed 
vehicle in battlefield conditions, so we can't be sure how well it 
performed. My conjecture is that the track would have been reliable with 
the proper tension on fixed axles with double road wheels.  A suspension 
system starts to complicate things and I'm not sure if the #40 sprocket 
teeth alone would keep the track from coming off in a hard, bumpy turn.


Welding pads to a 2040 link would be roughly the same design, so my best 
guess is that the track would work fine on fixed axles and would be 
questionable on a suspension system.


In general, the main concern when using chains as a track drive 
mechanism is to ensure that the chain is well-aligned even when turning. 
 Large links like #2060 are so stiff that they don't need any road 
wheels at all to stay aligned (Will's SU100 runs around quite well with 
missing road wheels).  Smaller #40 links, however, have enough lateral 
flexibility that the road wheels need to keep them aligned.  On fixed 
axles, the proper track tension with dual road wheels usually works 
effectively to keep the chains aligned with the sprockets (which is why 
most heavy tracked vehicles use fixed axles).  On suspended axles, track 
tension varies dynamically, so the road wheels alone are needed to keep 
the chain aligned. Unfortunately, #40 chain links aren't really tall 
enough or have the right cross-section to do the job properly.  The 
addition of guide teeth can solve the problem, but now the "simplicity" 
of the chain design is lost.  Tracks with two drive chains make the 
matter even worse, providing twice the probability of throwing a track.



On 11/28/2015 3:08 PM, Aaron Stern wrote:

Frank, I saw your comment on experience with different roller chain.
Have you seen anything regarding using 2040 single chain (double
pitch #40) with metal flats welded across the chain faces (for an
effect similar to the super expensive 2040 flange chain)?  My plan
was to use a lathe to turn the wheels so that the metal flats will
rest againt the wheel and the chain will ride inside of a groove in
the wheel...


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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Frank Pittelli]

Derek's experience is the rule, not the exception.

Based on my experience (which goes back to the original dual-chain 
bicycle track) and the collective experience of everyone who has built, 
tested and battled such designs in the last 15 years, the dual-chain 
design is far more problematic than either a single-chain design or a 
link-drive design.  Lateral forces on the track immediately cause the 
chains to skew, which increases the likelihood of jumping one of the 
chains off a sprocket tooth in rough terrain.  Guide horns help decrease 
the likelihood, but doesn't decrease it enough to make the tracks 
reliable enough in our world (which is, by far, the toughest test of 
scale tracks).


When it comes to chain designs, size matters.  Based on quite a few 
people who have tried such an approach over the years, #40 chain is too 
small and not rigid enough to be used as either a single-chain or 
dual-chain track design in our operating scale and terrain.  On the 
other hand, #60 chain is so rigid that it has proven very reliable when 
used in a single-chain design, thereby eliminating the need for a 
dual-chain design.


That said, the design being discussed is the first time someone has used 
pins that go from one side of the track to the other, using the track 
pad itself to keep the pins parallel.  This *could* provide the rigidity 
needed to prevent chain skew in a hard turn, thereby preventing a 
dreaded derailment.  I say *could* because it all comes down to the 
stiffness of the plastic pads and the amount of sideways movement 
allowed between the pads and the pins.  No amount of calculation or 
workbench testing will provide the required answers.  The track needs to 
be installed on a tank chassis and driven through the roughest terrain 
possible by an operator skilled in abusing vehicles to determine if the 
design is reliable or not.


Battlefield-tested isn't a marketing slogan.

On 10/29/2015 12:26 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:

I believe I said the tracks might have issues staying on since they are
similar to my design that I abandoned because they didn't stay on in
high stress due to lack of the center guides.  Even with the center
guides, mine flexed too much side to side so they still came off the
sprockets.


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Re: [TANKS] AAV-7 Fun Project

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work. Would love to see what type of recovery they are testing.
On Oct 26, 2015 7:37 PM, "Loic atFOA"  wrote:

> Hello Tankers,
>
> FOA was tasked to build an AAV-7 in 1/6th scale for an engineering firm
> testing the recovery of the real vehicles. No much detail is added. We used
> the Tiger I tracks, our experimental M1 Abrams wheels in resin. This tank
> is weighed down to allow water level at the curve of the rear hull. It is
> about 200 lbs. Fiberglass lower hull, no suspension. Two Jet Propulsion on
> either sides of the vehicle for water travel.
>
> I thought you guys would be interested in this project
>
> Video is here for ground testing:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJ8AyCgKBVI
>
> Tomorrow is the second series of water tests
>
> Loic
>
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Re: [TANKS] (Kind of) New Here

[Frank Pittelli]

1) The most important selection criteria for your tank should be: Pick 
the one that you think is cool.  You'll be spending way more time 
building and showing off your tank then you will be battling it.  So, 
despite the many past threads that talk about one "advantage" or 
another, just build the one that you want to build.


2) It takes roughly the same amount of time to build virtually any tank 
or tank destroyer.  The amount of time depends way more on your building 
skills, materials used and how nice you want things to be, then on the 
type of vehicle being built.  Size does matter, however.  The smaller 
the vehicle, the harder the build.  So, stick to something in the 3 ft 
range for your first vehicle.  You can still pick any vehicle, just 
scale it so that you have plenty of room to solve installation problems.


3) Power wheel motors (ie. kiddie car motors) are *not* a good choice 
because they simply don't have enough power to move a tracked vehicle in 
grass.  For not much more money, you should buy a pair of scooter 
motors.  They provide plenty of power, they don't abuse batteries and 
they'll last forever.


4) Yes, a Playstation wireless controller can be used with a C12C 
controller to operate a tank, but you can also buy an inexpensive 2.4Ghz 
R/C transmitter/receiver to operate the vehicle.  But, don't worry about 
the electronics until you have something to operate.  All you need to 
test things in the workshop is a couple of basic switches and/or relays 
and some wire.  Once the motors and tracks are working on the bench, 
it's a simple matter to purchase and wire up motor controllers and radio 
gear for remote control.


5) Fiberglass is plenty strong enough to withstand paintball hits.  The 
venerable T001 has been battled over a decade with a fiberglass hull and 
turret with no signs of failure.


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Re: [TANKS] UK Junior tank building

[Frank Pittelli]

Well done. Glad to see that your school club is successful and 
especially glad to see that the Queen's 1/6 Scale Guard has found proper 
employment :-)


On 10/5/2015 7:50 AM, neroc1 wrote:


http://www.stockport-academy.org/Students/Enrichment/Clubs/Tank-Building-Club



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Re: [TANKS] EPIC WEEKEND : Sunday morning pre battle preparations

[Frank Pittelli]

The explanation is really quite simple. Technically speaking, the 
goes-inta and the goes-outa got crossed thereby causing release of the 
magic smoke.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: brushless motor questions

[Frank Pittelli]

I haven't looked at brushless motors in detail, but from a couple years 
of Physics in college I learned that when you increase voltage/current 
in a coil, you increase the strength of the magnetic field generated by 
the coil.  So, I suspect that the RPMs per volt rating for brushless 
motors tells you how much voltage needs to be applied to pull the 
armature hard enough for a given speed.  Presumably, that rating is for 
a 100% duty cycle (i.e., max speed).  Indeed, the controller pulses the 
voltage for two purposes (a) to spin the motor one way or another and 
(b) to regulate the speed (i.e., decrease the average voltage seen by 
the coil).


With regard to torque, for a given duty cycle, if you decrease the input 
voltage the torque will also decrease.  But, if you maintain the same 
input voltage, while decreasing the duty cycle, the torque will remain 
relatively stable while the speed decreases.  That's why really big 
earth movers and locomotives use diesel-electric drive systems ... 
maximal torque across a range of RPMs.


On 7/29/2015 12:18 PM, TyngTech wrote:

Can't say I truly understand the brushless nomenclature (i.e. KVA)
because nobody ever talks about the controller side.  Brushless motors
are basically steppers and without the controller are inert chunks of
iron and copper.  What I don't get is the KVA ratings (rpm's per volt)
of these motors.  In my mind, the controller dictates rpm by how fast it
is energizing the phases, not by how much voltage is being applied.
  Voltage would affect acceleration and torque or am I getting this wrong?


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Re: [TANKS] brushless motor questions

[Frank Pittelli]

The no-load RPM value doesn't tell you much by itself.  The stall torque 
and current are better properties to know, but they still don't tell the 
whole picture.  What you want to know is how fast the motor will turn 
(RPM) and how much current (AMP) will be used for a given workload 
(Torque).  In other words, it would be best to look at the RPM and AMP 
draws for each motor over the expected range of workloads for your 
application.   Back in my warship days, we spent many an evening 
measuring motor performance/cost to find just the right drive and pump 
motors for our fleet of ships. (Which is why I still have a couple boxes 
full of different types of motors in the workshop.)


In general, I would expect that any motor designed to efficiently spin 
an airplane propeller (such as the Great Planes motor) would not work 
well when used to spin a pump impeller or move a mechanical load.  Yes, 
you can add lots of gearing to make it move the load, but the gearing 
significantly reduces the overall efficiency.  Also, motors designed to 
spin an airplane prop don't have to be overly concerned with 
over-current problems, which allows them to be made lighter.  That is, 
since the prop is not expected to hit something hard (unless you've 
really had a bad flying day), stall currents will never be experienced. 
 If you adapt them to workloads that are capable of causing the motor 
to stall, they could generate more heat than the motor parts can handle. 
 For example, door lock actuators are cheap little motors that are 
mechanically stopped when the arm reaches the extreme position. They 
work very reliably for their intended purpose. But, if you keep applying 
the current for even just a few seconds, the motor winding wire will 
simply melt. A classic case of designing the motor to work well only 
within a given performance envelope to save money.


So, in addition to examining the RPM/AMP/Torque performance curves, you 
should also consider the intended purpose of the motor to determine if 
there could be design limitations.


On 7/28/2015 12:07 AM, Doug Conn wrote:

Hello –

We’ve had a few discussions regarding brushed vs brushless motors. The
most important point I remember was that brushed and brushless ran at
similar energy efficiencies under load. I’m wondering about efficiency
with respect to size and weight.

Let’s compare this brushless motor

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXLWY0P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXLWY0P=7

to this brushed motor

http://www.andymark.com/CIM-motor-FIRST-p/am-0255.htm

Both are in the 300 watt range. At 12v, the unloaded brushless motor,
rotates at 32k rpm and the brushed motor at 5.3k rpm. Of course, the
brushless motor would need a lot more gearing to make it usable in a
tank. That aside, could I expect roughly the same performance from both
motors ? It’s hard for to believe that because the brushless motor is
1/14 of the brushed motor weight and 1/7 of the volume.

Is there another factor (besides cost) I need to take into account when
comparing a brushed to a brushless motor ?

Thanks,

Doug

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Re: [TANKS] Tiger turret rebuild

[Frank Pittelli]

Very nice. I see that the 3D printer is getting a good workout.
On Jul 21, 2015 10:42 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 It started by repairing a marker malfunction from the last battle (caused
 by a mangled o-ring that jammed the bolt). Then, I wanted to fix a couple
 of things that bugged me about the turret. One thing led to another, and
 now I have a completely rebuilt turret ! Take a look:



 -  Doug

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Re: [TANKS] Scores?

[Frank Pittelli]

I generally use the following priorities for my tank hobby to-do list:

1) Exploring new technology
2) Maintaining old technology
3) Preparing for battles
4) Posting mailing list items
5) Website maintenance

Given the poor performance of the Semovente and Navarone Gun at the last 
battle, items (2) and (3) have been occupying my time :-)


On 7/21/2015 3:58 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

Just curious, when will the scores from the last event be up?


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Re: [TANKS] C12C question

[Frank Pittelli]

Silly boy. Nobody donates to her campaign, everyone donates to the 
foundation so that there is no accountability and so that Bill can get 
his piece of the action.


On 6/2/2015 3:34 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

I’d love to win the Challenge and make Frank donate the $1000 to Hillary
Clinton’s campaign


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Re: [TANKS] C12C question

[Frank Pittelli]

Sorry, but there are no secret settings that can be controlled from the
game pad like the old C6C. I had to eliminate that support in the software
to make room for the extra features. I will be bringing a couple extra ESCs
to the battle and you are welcome to borrow one if needed. Looking forward
to seeing your new vehicle as well.
On May 31, 2015 8:09 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Hello –



 I’m getting Bad Kitty ready for next weekend and I see it’s developed an
 involuntary turret rotate condition. I suspect my turret ESC is going bad.
 Until I replace it, I wonder if I can adjust the trim of the controller to
 compensate. I know I can do this via the serial interface, but I’d have to
 disassemble part of the tank to get access to the C12C. Even then it would
 be hard to program the device while checking the turret for correct
 centering.



 Is there a way to set the trim from the PS2 controller directly ? Like
 double-secret set of magic button presses or something ?



 Thanks,

 Doug

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Burnt out my Sabertooth

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice looking/working tank and a great video. But, I hope that no Tigers 
were harmed during filming :-)


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Re: [TANKS] Spring Battle and a Question

[Frank Pittelli]

The Spring Battle is scheduled for Sunday, June 7 in Gettysburg.

Any 11+ inch tall soldier will do.

On 5/13/2015 9:34 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

I am just curious, how soon is the spring battle? And I'm wondering
if the noble president of Tri-Pact could give me a suggestion as to a
legal alternative to GI figures for my cannon?


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Re: [TANKS] Early steps

[Frank Pittelli]

That's a good way to start.  Field artillery is easier to build and 
doesn't require any fancy electronics, so you get on the field faster 
and have fun sooner.


You'll want to start by locating an inexpensive, used paintball marker. 
 A simple mechanical trigger will suffice.  Purchase a door lock 
actuator to pull the mechanical trigger.  You'll only need a simple 
button to control the actuator, which pulls the trigger.


Then, build a frame to hold the marker and make it look like a howitzer 
(if you stand back and squint).  The upper part of the frame (that holds 
the marker) should be separate from the lower part (that sits on the 
ground) so that you can rotate the upper part.


Rotate and elevate can be done either mechanically or electrically.  For 
mechanical control, get a couple used brake cables for a bicycle and 
configure them to move the marker up/down, left/right.  Cheap, 
inexpensive, reliable and easy to install.


For electrical control, a pair of slow turning motors are the easiest 
solution (approx 4 RPM).  You can attach an arm to the motors and move 
the marker using push/pull rods.  Or, you can attach a gear to the 
motors and move the marker using another gear.  Or, you can use a pully 
on the motor and a move the marker using a belt.  Or, you can use a 
rubber wheel on the motor and move the marker using friction.


A pair of DPDT switches will provide FWD/REV control for both motors 
without any additional electronics.


Once you've got the basic system working, you can start adding more 
complex electronics (if you want) to get things like proportional 
control and slower motions, but the basic mechanical/electrical systems 
described above are definitely sufficient to have some fun shooting things.



On 5/12/2015 2:27 AM, Replicant wrote:

I have been a long time creeper of the forums. I'm really interested
in building an Abrams as well but have very little knowledge on
electronics. Thought about getting my feet wet with an M777 howitzer.
Any suggestions where to start?


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Re: [TANKS] SU-76 rolling out

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work.  Indeed, PS2 wireless game pads don't generate a strong 
enough signal to get through an AL hull.  I mount my receiver above the 
AL hull, inside of the fiberglass turret to eliminate that problem. 
Paul mounted his receiver in a wooden box that hangs off the back of the 
hull.


On 4/27/2015 2:18 PM, Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre wrote:

I had to buy a new futuba controler and receiver cause the C12C work
superbly but I had some signal difficulty using a wireless PS2
controller probably due to the aluminium hull...


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Re: [TANKS] Question for RC Brains

[Frank Pittelli]

If you were powering the servo from the BEC, then the servo could have 
easily pulled more power than the BEC was capable of providing. 
Usually, BECs only provide an amp or two and servos can pull more than 
that when trying to move a heavy load.  Most likely, your elevate servo 
pulled too much current and blew the BEC circuit in the ESC.  If you 
power the receiver and servo with a separate battery, all your systems 
will be happy.


On 4/22/2015 7:32 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

I'm just curious if any of you guys (who know a lot more about this sort
of stuff than I do) could give a possible reason to why this is
happening, and what could have caused it?


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Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

[Frank Pittelli]

I can assure you that your first-time result is *FAR* better than mine 
(for which no pictures will ever be found on the Internet ;-)  Good job.


Those corner voids are usually not caused by improper rolling, they are 
usually caused by the material/resin pulling away from the corner 
because of surface tension during the curing process.  That's where an 
initial bead of epoxy and filler (glass fibers, micro-balloons, wood 
flour, saw dust, kevlar pulp, etc) is used.  Mix the putty to a 
consistency of a creamy peanut butter. Just put a small bead of putty in 
the corner after spreading the initial coat of epoxy on the mold, but 
before laying in the first layer of mat.  The putty will squeeze out as 
you roll the mat in, but it will always fill the corner, producing a 
sweet edge when you pull the part out of the mold.  I use kevlar pulp 
almost exclusively for that purpose, because it yields a rock-hard, 
extremely durable corner.  Don't take too long spreading the putty and 
laying the first layer, because the putty cures faster than resin by itself.


With regards to filling the voids.  If you used epoxy resin for the 
molded part, then just create a putty from the same epoxy resin using a 
filler (see list above).  Epoxy always sticks to itself.  If you used 
molding polyester resin (which does *not* include wax), then both 
epoxy and polyester putty will work fine for the filler.  If you used 
standard polyester resin (the stuff from auto parts or marine stores) 
it contains a wax to help it cure. So, you'll need to rough sand the 
void to remove the wax layer before filling will either epoxy or 
polyester putty.  (FYI: Bondo is a polyester putty).  When making your 
own putty, mix it to a consistency of a stiff peanut butter.


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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Frank Pittelli]

Dowel == Boring

Carbon Fiber == Sexy

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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Frank Pittelli]

Bondo == Inevitable

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Re: [TANKS] Progress from the Funky Tank Foundry-

[Frank Pittelli]

Bravo.  You've got quite a fleet now.  Glad to see you've made the 
switch from high-priced electronics to virtually kid-proof mechanical 
switches and relays.  Tethered solutions are not only easier to 
maintain, but they ensure that vehicles can't go too far from their 
handlers.  Keep up the good work.


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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Frank Pittelli]

You don't wait any time between layers.

1) Spread resin on the mold

2) Lay in the first layer of mat.  Stipple with brush or use a resin 
roller to push the mat into the resin until it is all wet.


3) Lay in the second layer of mat.  Use brush or roller to push into 
first layer.  Brush on some additional resin as need (sparingly) to 
fully wet second layer.


4) Lay in the final layer of cloth.  Use brush or roller to push into 
the second layer.  You shouldn't need any additional resin for the last 
layer, but brush in more if necessary.


In general, you want to use as little resin as possible to wet out the 
mat/cloth.  Resin doesn't add any strength, just weight and bulk. Use 
firm pressure on the roller to push mat/cloth through the resin to 
remove bubbles and ensure full saturation.


The most important thing is to remember that polyester resin cures much 
faster in the cup than on a flat surface.  It's always better to mix a 
couple small batches then one large batch.  At room temperature, it 
takes a good half-hour before the resin in the mold will start to cure 
enough to cause problems, so you've got time to mix, lay up and roll 
each layer.  Don't rush, but don't spend too much time on each layer. 
Practice makes perfect.


Always cut all of the mat/cloth pieces that you'll need before mixing 
any resin. Set the pieces in the dry mold and make sure they cover all 
the flat surfaces.  Leave about an inch extra over the edges of the 
mold, no more, no less.  Too much or too little excess will cause 
problems.  Also, don't try to use one piece to go around inside or 
outside corners.  Cut separate pieces that meet in the corner.  When you 
brush/roll the layer the fibers will meet in the corner and form a nice 
edge.  Always brush/roll towards the corner.  The mat/cloth moves and 
stretches in the direction of pressure.


Some people lay a wet putty of resin and a filler (loose fibers, 
sawdust, kevlar pulp, etc) to reinforce the corner.  But, since the 
putty is concentrated it cures faster then the straight panels, so you 
have to lay up mat/cloth over the puttied corners fast enough to prevent 
them curing too early.  You probably won't need putty for your turret 
corners because they are fairly shallow, but it's a technique you'll 
want to learn for more complicated molds. Practice makes perfect.


On 3/22/2015 10:26 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

How long should I wait in between successive layers of cloth ? I do
not want the first layer to completely cure before adding the next,
right ?


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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Frank Pittelli]

Warning: If you glass the outside of the hardboard it will require a 
lot of time to yield a nice, smooth finished surface.  First of all, 
multi-faceted surfaces need to be laid up in multiple passes, because it 
is hard to cover an outside corner without creating bubbles (surface 
tension is your enemy when laying up fiberglass).  With your turret, 
minimally 3 lay ups would be required.  Second, after the lay ups, 
you'll need to sand/fill multiple times to get a smooth, metal-like, 
surface.


Personally, I would use the hard-board to make a one-time negative mold 
and then lay up the fiberglass inside the mold form to make an 
all-fiberglass part.  The result will be lighter, will provide more 
interior room, will be completely waterproof and will require less 
sanding on the finished surface.


Basically, just make your hard-board box so that the interior surface 
of the form is the desired exterior measurement of the turret. 
Hard-board is great for molds, because it is easy to work with and has a 
nice smooth finish.  For flat sections, place reinforcing ribs on the 
outside as needed so that you can press on those sections when laying up 
the glass without them flexing.  Tack nail or glue them in place.


After the box is built, coat the inside with a couple coats of sanding 
sealer, with a very light sanding in-between each coat.  Then, rub on a 
couple coats of paste wax to seal it completely.  Finally, spray two 
light coats of PVA on the surface, allowing it to dry in between coats. 
 PVA forms a water-soluble film that makes it easier to release the 
part from the mold.  Your turret is simple enough that you might not 
need PVA, but it never hurts to use it.


For lay up, I always use a layer of mat against the mold, because it 
yields the best outer surface (no cloth pattern).  Then, another layer 
of mat to build up the thickness and finally a layer of cloth to keep 
things neat on the inside and add more strength. That's plenty strong 
for our purposes, especially given the structure of the turret.  If you 
think flexing will be a problem on a flat section (like the top), use 
carbon fiber cloth in those areas to stiffen them.


After the part has cured to touch, slowly pry it away from the mold, a 
little section at a time and it will eventually pop out.  Wash off the 
PVA residue with water, trim the edges and you should have a perfect 
turret.  You can then cut whatever holes are needed.


If you've never done a mold before, make a smaller version and learn on 
that.  It's not as complicated as it sounds.  And, once you've mastered 
molding, your 3D printer will become the perfect mold-making tool.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Frank Pittelli]

Interesting.   Have you considered making a 20 ball version of the 
spring-loaded magazine?  That would keep everything nice and compact.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Frank Pittelli]

BTW: Where do you plan on mounting the paintball magazine?  Part of the 
trade-off of building really small vehicles is the chore of fitting 
everything into really small spaces.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Frank Pittelli]

Since your magazines will only hold 20 paint balls, I think that a 
straight tube would work best, using a light-pressure spring, like the 
one used in the magazine that comes with the marker, only longer.  If 
you made a simple socket to receive the tube, then you could reload 
quickly using a modified Navarrone Gun loading process:


- Disconnect magazine from marker
- Cock spring
- Pour 20 balls down the tube using preloaded tube of 20
- Reconnect magazine to marker
- Release spring to push balls into socket and marker breach

It's cheap and easy to make 6-10 pre-loading tubes out of PVC and simply 
load them with a funnel before the battle.


For the spring, you could either duplicate the spring provided with the 
marker and make it twice as long or buy a replacement spring and place 
two springs in the longer tube.


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Re: [TANKS] Small Fry lives

[Frank Pittelli]

Nice work, Doug.  We'll definitely have to adjust some of our battle 
tactics, now that you have an agile vehicle :-)


On 3/8/2015 7:40 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

It’s the chassis for my new tank, “Small Fry”.


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Re: [TANKS] Pulling tank...

[Frank Pittelli]

Bravo!
On Mar 9, 2015 5:25 PM, José Garcia frj...@gmail.com wrote:

 jajjaja

 http://youtu.be/RH7XMMQpwXk

 Saludos y suerte en la vida.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

[Frank Pittelli]

Not sure if those panel connectors will last long on the battlefield :-)

On 3/9/2015 3:32 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

More progress.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZFht7enbgu0/VP30_08lv4I/AZg/Zwn4dBNQR8I/s1600/IMG_9185.JPG


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

[Frank Pittelli]

One way to mount the sprocket on the axle would be to weld the sprocket 
to the nut and then put a second nut and lock washer on the shaft to 
lock the sprocket in the desired location.


On 2/28/2015 7:01 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

The main difficulty with these motors is the shaft. It's threaded,
and I am a little stumped on how to mount the drive sprocket securely
to it. I would appreciate any ideas/suggestions. :)


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Re: [TANKS] AMX13

[Frank Pittelli]

Glad to see things a moving again.  Before too long, you'll be scraping 
paint off of it :-)


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Re: [TANKS] Re: First suspension

[Frank Pittelli]

Good find.

Will Montgomery bought a Russian made model of an armored personnel 
carrier about 10+ years ago that had independent suspension for all road 
wheels.  When we took a look inside, we saw that all of the internal 
tension arms were surplus wrenches that were cut to the desired length 
and welded in place.  So, consider yourself in good company.


On 2/14/2015 2:16 PM, srwh7...@gmail.com wrote:

I came across a small wrench that i thought might work along with
2 bolts.


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Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea

[Frank Pittelli]

Why do you include roller links in the design?  Or, in other words, what 
problems do they solve?


Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to have two pins embedded in each 
tread as you show in your design and then mold a link that connects two 
treads together.  The link could then be shaped to fit into a molded 
drive sprocket.  You could incorporate as many links as you need along 
the length of each tread to ensure reliability.  Furthermore, one or 
more of the links could be shaped as guide horns to suit whatever guide 
horn arrangement is needed for the vehicle (2 horns/1 wheel vs. 1 
wheel/2 horns, etc)


On 2/10/2015 1:04 AM, Joshua Updyke wrote:

So this new design is still similar and still uses standard roller
chain. There is a tread that is molded over two pins. These pins
replace the pins that are pressed into roller chain.


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Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea

[Frank Pittelli]

All the more reason to make everything from molded plastic as much as 
possible and, more importantly, to use a design where a small number of 
parts (say 4) can be used to build a variety of different track widths 
and configurations.  With a slight modification of Garnet's T011 design, 
such a goal is achievable.  If you develop the following parts:


- 1 inch long pad
- 1.5 inch long pad
- simple link
- horned link

they can be combined to build virtually any tank track configuration 
used during the last 100 years and could also be used to develop tracks 
for a wide array of robots.  Design a plastic sprocket to mate up with 
the links and it's a complete system.  Best of all, assembly and repair 
would only require inserting and removing straight pins that either 
press it into the links or that have slip rings on the ends.  In either 
case, such pins are stock items.


And, from a business standpoint, you maximize revenue by producing all 
the parts yourself.  Modular, all-in-one solutions are the goal of all 
product companies because that's what the market always wants.



On 2/10/2015 11:18 AM, Joshua Updyke wrote:

I am looking at being able to make these in small batches myself, but
mostly at trying to make them in bulk and sell to hobbyists.


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Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea

[Frank Pittelli]

2 foot tracks ... any vehicle with only a 1 foot wheelbase is not 
worthy of a track :=)


Real tanks and robots have 2-3 foot wheelbases or roughly 6 foot tracks.

On 2/10/2015 3:56 PM, Joshua Updyke wrote:

Or about 300 kits of 2 foot tracks.


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Re: [TANKS] Finaly, an RC tank

[Frank Pittelli]

It's always nice to hear when someone uses the challenges of this hobby 
to improve their skills either personally or professionally.  Well done.


On 2/8/2015 8:15 PM, Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre wrote:

Thanks you very much all for this hobby. It's been now nine year that
I'm looking forward to make a running tank and on the path I made the
decision to be a welder in my working life due to this. I have learn
how to machining and in the last year to master the 3d cad, 3d
printing and plastic casting. It will be useful for everything I
will make and for the rest of my life.


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Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea

[Frank Pittelli]

Looks like a sweet ride Doug.

There's one important aspect about your track design that you failed to 
mention: the rigidity of the 90 degree angle between the chain and the 
tread.  If that angle is not held rigid over the life of the track, the 
probability of throwing a track goes up.  Attachment links significantly 
increase the rigidity and therefore the reliability of the track. 
Personally, I think that your attachment chain design is as good as a 
chain-based design can get.  End of evolution.


The performance of the TTS design is legendary and well-proven on the 
battlefield (which makes all other R/C tests look like kindergarten 
projects).  Will's and Doug's attachment chain designs are also 
seasoned.  Not as good as TTS, but definitely battlefield approved. 
Basically, the last category in track designs that hasn't been fully 
explored is self-linked treads.


If you're going with 3D printing for prototypes and injection molding 
for production, you might as well design an interlocking tread that can 
be pinned together just like the real thing.  When used with a properly 
designed drive cog and guide tooth, you would never throw a track. 
Moreover, a cleverly designed set of parts could be used to make a wide 
array of different tracks.  Single-tooth, double-tooth, offset tooth, 
narrow, medium and wide tracks could all be built using the same 
elemental parts.  If you combine the pioneering work done by Garnet for 
T011 with 3D printing and modern injection molding, I think the result 
could be successfully battle-tested and used on a wide-variety of vehicles.


Loic and FoA have pushed that frontier further along with their scale 
metal track links, but I don't think the evolution is done and a 
semi-scale version in plastic would be greatly appreciated in many 
different R/C worlds.


On 2/6/2015 11:14 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

Here’s the new tank I’ll test them on. The hull is mechanically
finished. I just need to wire it, add tracks, and try everything out.


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Re: [TANKS] 12 volt dimmer /motor control as speed control?

[Frank Pittelli]

Yes, that could be used to control the speed of one or two motors by 
connecting a servo to the rotary dial using a suitable linkage or gear. 
 You could then provide forward/reverse direction control using a 
simple pair of relays per motor.


On 2/1/2015 11:43 AM, srwh7...@gmail.com wrote:

This may sound like a dumb question, and probably is, but has anyone
tried one of these or similar.
http://www.sailorsams.com/12-volt-Dimmer-9-20vdc--The-PowerHouse-12-volt-42-Amp-500-watt-PWM-Dimmer-with-rotary-dial_p_3205.html

I am not a electrician (short of house wiring) so I am looking for a
simpler sorta drop in solution for a speed control.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Calling All Nit-Pickers

[Frank Pittelli]

Definitely.  We only had one hardware problem with that server in the 15 
year period, so that server didn't require too much effort.  But, at one 
point we had 20+ servers/routers/switches to manage, so plenty of 
holidays and weekends were disrupted by trips up to the co-location 
facility to solve an issue.  Now, the cost of hosting is so cheap that 
I'm more than happy to let folks in Canada (where rctankcombat.com is 
now hosted) deal with hardware issues.


Things have sure come a long way in the 20 years since I opened my first 
web site on the Internet in 1995.  Back then, the server was in my 
house, at the end of a pitiful DSL line, and I could estimate web 
traffic by looking at the LEDs flashing on the modem.  Even better, you 
simply filled out a web form to register your URL with the various 
search engines before Google came along, putting my site at or near the 
top of all R/C Warship searches from the very beginning.  When Google 
came along, they eliminated that aspect, but they sucked in all of the 
newsgroup posts, which had thousands of references to my server, so it 
was near the top of the search results as well.  At one point, the R/C 
warship web site was seen by 30,000+ unique visitors a month.


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[TANKS] Calling All Nit-Pickers

[Frank Pittelli]

If you're one of those people who are easily irritated by small 
inconsistencies or who just love to find mistakes with other people's 
work, I've got the perfect job for you.


After only 15 years of continuous duty, the server that hosts the R/C 
Tank Combat website is being retired shortly.  But fear not, all of the 
glorious information on the web site has been ported to a new server in 
the cloud that will hopefully provide reliable service for another 15 
years.


Most of the textual pages were simply copied to the new site and should 
be relatively error free. However, all of the database-related pages, 
including asset albums, asset history, operator history, battle scores 
and totally worthless statistics had to be re-implemented, which always 
leaves opportunities for mistakes.


So, if you'd like to help ferret out the mistakes, please visit:

http://test.rctankcombat.com/

give it a good going over, and compare it to the original website at:

http://www.rctankcombat.com/

If you find anything that looks wrong, please post a reply and I'll take 
a look at it.


Here are the known issues that don't need to be reported:

a) The World-Wide map still needs to be registered with Google for the 
new server, so it is currently not visible.


b) For some unknown reason, the scores for some Maryland battlers were 
somehow increased by 363% during the porting process, but I'm sure I'll 
figure out the problem someday :-)


Let the nit-picking begin.

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[TANKS] R/C Tank Combat Video Archives

[Frank Pittelli]

As part of the web site upgrade process, I've uploaded all of the video 
files from the web site to YouTube and created play lists for all of the 
events for which I had video.  The new videos and play lists can be 
found at:


https://www.youtube.com/user/rctankcombat

Most of the videos from that collection are from the earlier battles, 
before John started using YouTube.  For more recent battle footage you 
should visit (and subscribe to) John's YouTube collection at:


https://www.youtube.com/user/jplilycomet

Over time, John and/or I will create play lists for each event covered 
by his video collection so that it's easier to find things.


Enjoy.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Gettysburg 2014OCT26 battle reports

[Frank Pittelli]

Sorry, but I'm in the process of moving 15 years worth of web site stuff 
to a new server and forgot about the scores.  I'll work on it tonight.


On 12/29/2014 10:54 AM, Caleb Smith wrote:

Hey, Frank, how soon will the battle reports and scores be on the website?


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Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha

[Frank Pittelli]

My guess is that they cut the metal sheets with a good old fashioned 
press made before World War II :-)


On 12/24/2014 1:51 PM, loic Anthian wrote:

$40 for a full laser cut of a 1/6^th scale Abrams! I need to know the
address of that shop… It does not seem like the metal was even that
cheap when I cut my lower hull of the same tank.


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Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha

[Frank Pittelli]

There are a number of mostly metal tanks in the tank list.  Take a look 
at the following hulls:


T029 - Riveted Aluminum Hull
T066 - Welded steel tubing, plywood sheathing
T072 - All steel hull and turret
T077 - Aluminum hull
T079 - Aluminum hull, steel under-carriage
T100 - Steel/Aluminum frame, Aluminum/Carbon Fiber skin
T189 - 95% Aluminum fabrication

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

Actually, we see a random glitch out every battle, but it's not the 
electronics, it's the humanoid operating the electronics ;-)


The Tri-Pact Battlefield Management System (TP-BMS) will eliminate all 
such problems ... and we do mean eliminate!


On 11/18/2014 7:52 AM, isaac goldman wrote:

And every fourth battle someone will randomly glitch out and the
battle will be ordered replayed. I can hardly wait.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

Yes, indeed.  The good ole days when all we had to worry about was 
cooperation between two U.S. and Soviet computers intent on destroying 
the world with nuclear weapons.  Nowadays, there are over 1 billion 
(that's with a 'b') personal computers in use around the world (not to 
mention smart phones, tablets and embedded controllers), which are each 
approx 1 billion (that's with a 'b') times more powerful than the 
computers that inspired Mr. Forbin's pet project. When some insidious 
computer virus hooks them all together under one user's control, then we 
have something to worry about.  Fortunately, most of those computers are 
kept very busy sending/receiving email, buying/selling unnecessary stuff 
and, of course, downloading porn.


On 11/18/2014 9:11 AM, 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat wrote:

When referring to 1970 you must consider Mr Forbin's, Project Colossus.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

Way back in the stone age, my doctoral thesis was on the design of 
fault-tolerant electronics.  A lot has changed in the 25+ years, but 
reliability theory hasn't changed much since Roman times when the 
historian Juvenal coined the phrase Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes? 
(i.e., But who will guard the guardians themselves?) and an anonymous 
sanitation engineer coined the phrase Custodite Hoc est simplex 
stultus (i.e., Keep It Simple Stupid).


So, I ask the question: Is it more reliable or less reliable to add a 
secondary RC-based control system to a vehicle as a safety cut-off for 
the primary RC-based control system?


Typically, the following topics are addressed when trying to answer such 
a question:


1) Will the RC-based kill system handle all of the same fault scenarios 
as the manual cutoff system?


2) Will the RC-based kill system introduce additional fault scenarios 
that must be handled?


3) Will the RC-based kill system use electro-mechanical parts that are 
more or less reliable than both the primary RC-based control system and 
the manual kill system?


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

For the record, I must note that the out of control examples cited by 
both Mr. Tyng and Rocket Man were both operator malfunctions.  In both 
cases, the RC systems were working as designed :-)


To my knowledge, in 10+ years of battling, we've never had a situation 
where the tank was running across the field in a manner that required 
the kill switch to stop it.


Of course, we've had numerous examples where the kill switch was 
inadvertently activated during a battle, thereby rendering the vehicle a 
sitting (aka. dead) duck.


On 11/17/2014 12:15 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

The “Marty’s Van” kill switch technique worked for me, too. It must be a
magnet for out of control RCTC vehicles.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

True Story:  Before the Internet existed, a company called Tandem 
Computers was started by some database exports on the West Coast for the 
purpose of developing and selling fault-tolerant computer systems to 
support non-stop database applications.  One of the pioneers of such 
work was Dr. Jim Gray and he conducted a series of real-world studies 
based on *all* problems cited by Tandem customers over multi-year 
periods.  The overwhelming conclusion of those studies was that people, 
not hardware, were the cause of most problems.  Bear in mind, disk 
drives crashed in those days relatively often, compared to modern disk 
drives, so Tandem computers had duplicates of everything, including 
disks, CPUs, power supplies, back-planes, etc.


In many situations, the trained maintenance personnel themselves were 
responsible for crashing the system.  More often than not, the person 
shutting down half the system to replace a failed disk or power supply 
(which was routine back then) would shut down the wrong half.  The 
ironic solution was to eliminate certain types of routine maintenance 
and just let the system keep running.  For example, they might need N 
disks to run, but started with N+4 disks.  When the first and second 
disk fails, they do nothing, waiting until the 3rd disk fails to replace 
all three.  That way, they reduced the likelihood of stupid mistakes, 
without compromising system reliability.


Based on those studies, we should remove all humans from the equation 
and just let the tanks battle each other.  Unfortunately, that means 
that the Pittelli X-Prize Problem (i.e., autonomous tank operation) 
needs to be solved and that probably won't happen anytime soon :-)


On 11/17/2014 12:57 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

Then we need to solve the correct problem.
I propose a remote-controlled device be attached to each operator
with the capability to remove said operator from the control process.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Frank Pittelli]

Skynet?  That's like a dial-up modem network from the late 70's compared 
to the Tri-Pact Battlefield Management Network scheduled to become 
self-aware sometime in 2015.


On 11/17/2014 7:39 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

I'm invoking the Skynet clause of our friendship agreement.


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Re: [TANKS] Gremlins of Gettysburg

[Frank Pittelli]

I'll be out of town this weekend and next, so maybe not soon.

But, battlers who attended are always free to post stories in their own 
words to the group.  That way, the stories are not affected by media 
bias and are easily incorporated by the editor into the final battle 
report to be used by historians around the world for generations to come.


On 10/29/2014 7:55 PM, Caleb Smith wrote:

How soon will the battle reports be up, Frank?


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Re: [TANKS] Re: Gremlins of Gettysburg

[Frank Pittelli]

E-marker circuit boards will work fine with 12V as well.  We've been 
running them off the main batteries in a couple of tanks and the 
Navarone for years.  Or, if you prefer 9V, a simple 9V regulator 
connected to the main battery will also work fine.


On 10/26/2014 9:09 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

This was the second time a low 9V had messed us up.
The Spyder Imagine comes with a 9.6V rechargeable battery.
A 9V alkaline or lithium is the same size and works OK when new but
doesn't last long.
Might have to invest in a 9.6V NiMH.


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Re: [TANKS] Gremlins of Gettysburg

[Frank Pittelli]

Loic and his FOA tank worked quite well.  No major gremlins that I saw. 
 The only negative was the excessively loud motor sounds generated by 
his amp'd up sound system, but that was drowned out my Loic's screams of 
surprise/disgust each time the Tiger was destroyed by Bazooka Joe ;-)


On 10/26/2014 10:17 PM, isaac goldman wrote:

If there was an FOA tank, how did it do?


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Re: [TANKS] 25 Pounder Upgrades for the Next Battle

[Frank Pittelli]

Limit switches are kinda silly for a 60A ESC.  Any motor capable of 
drawing that much current will probably not be used to drive mechanisms 
with limits.  And their price increase eliminates the market advantage 
they had over dual-motor ESCs.


On 10/21/2014 1:49 PM, loic Anthian wrote:

Two new products will be coming on Jan. 1^st , 2015 – Talon SRX made for
24V but MSRP around $80. It includes other features like limit switches
for gun elevations or traverse.


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