RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
Doug, these are basicly the same motors that Mike used and burnt out. Steve suggested venting them. These motors are air tight, not a hole in sight. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
Sorry mike, my mistake. My starter motors are exactly the same (looking at them) as the ones Steve found. As for set up, i would too make use of the sprocket to run chain to another larger sprocket to reduce rpms at the drives and improve torque. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
the S-tanks motors didn't burn up. They did severely overheat though due to too high gear ratio, running at partial throttle settings, and basically using the wrong motor for the gear ratio. If building the S-tank again, I would probably ise the sprocketed geared motors Steve found and add a sprocket to the drive hub to reduce rpm even more to the tracks. That would let the motor run at full throttle and multiply the torque to the tracks. Mike From: Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 10:37 PM Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has anybody done it ? Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end too. Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed. The motor even worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;). Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has anybody done it ? Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end too. Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed. The motor even worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;). Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end too. Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed. The motor even worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;). Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] Re: AMX13
Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual motors. Thx. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox. Onto those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts. The sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified hub washer. At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so far. Mike M From: srwh7...@gmail.com srwh7...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual motors. Thx. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
For smooth shafts with no keyways I use Fenner Trantorque keyless bushings... They are quite expensive unless you find them on Ebay like I did. The come in metric and standard sizes. They clamp down on the smooth shaft while applying torque outward on the inner bore of the sprocket. They clamp on the shaft and push out on the sprocket at the same time. Using them on my drive shafts to attach my sprockets that drive my tracks. Don't slip even with steel tracks that weigh 17lbs. each. Derek On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 7:49 PM, 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote: I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox. Onto those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts. The sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified hub washer. At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so far. Mike M -- *From:* srwh7...@gmail.com srwh7...@gmail.com *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com *Sent:* Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM *Subject:* [TANKS] Re: AMX13 Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual motors. Thx. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
pics? In a message dated 2/26/2015 9:13:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tan...@gmail.com writes: For smooth shafts with no keyways I use Fenner Trantorque keyless bushings... They are quite expensive unless you find them on Ebay like I did. The come in metric and standard sizes. They clamp down on the smooth shaft while applying torque outward on the inner bore of the sprocket. They clamp on the shaft and push out on the sprocket at the same time. Using them on my drive shafts to attach my sprockets that drive my tracks. Don't slip even with steel tracks that weigh 17lbs. each. Derek On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 7:49 PM, 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat _rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com) wrote: I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox. Onto those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts. The sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified hub washer. At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so far. Mike M From: _srwh74rn@gmail.com_ (mailto:srwh7...@gmail.com) _srwh74rn@gmail.com_ (mailto:srwh7...@gmail.com) To: _rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com) Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual motors. Thx. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to _rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com) To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+_unsubscribe@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:unsubscr...@googlegroups.com) Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+_unsubscr...@googlegroups.com._ (mailto:unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.) For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to _rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com) To unsubscribe, send email to _rctankcombat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com) Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to _rctankcombat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com) . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to _rctankcombat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com) . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] Re: AMX13
Other motor options, in particular the Harbor Freight saw motor/gearbox. https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!searchin/rctankcombat/t-70$20motor/rctankcombat/uyaaYAQHsMM/IOHtJCDWEt0J ST On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 12:25:36 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote: Been kicking (or moving) this project around the work shed for a long while. No actual progress beyond figuring out the curved hull front, until now. In the past week I have managed to get the suspension swing arm design to where I am happy with it and get 10 of them welded. I have also bought and received the motors for the project. I went with the ATV starter motors (thanks Mike Mangus for the idea) that i saw used on the S-tank T-081. I plan to use the same type of linear actuator to raise and lower the articulated turret (crazy French). The suspension will use the same type as T-044. I found some heavy duty lock collars that fit a 1/4 bolt through the side (lock). I also think I have figured out the potential paintball feed issues with the articulated turret, more on that once mocked up. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] Re: AMX13
FYI on those ATV starter motors. If I recall Mike burned one or two of them out that weekend he battled. Their cheap enough so get a spare set. You may want to investigate ways to open the motor casing up for venting. Also be aware that the motors are probably case grounded so you'll want to address that. Steve Tyng On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 12:25:36 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote: Been kicking (or moving) this project around the work shed for a long while. No actual progress beyond figuring out the curved hull front, until now. In the past week I have managed to get the suspension swing arm design to where I am happy with it and get 10 of them welded. I have also bought and received the motors for the project. I went with the ATV starter motors (thanks Mike Mangus for the idea) that i saw used on the S-tank T-081. I plan to use the same type of linear actuator to raise and lower the articulated turret (crazy French). The suspension will use the same type as T-044. I found some heavy duty lock collars that fit a 1/4 bolt through the side (lock). I also think I have figured out the potential paintball feed issues with the articulated turret, more on that once mocked up. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] Re: AMX13
Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] Re: AMX13
I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project. TNC Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch. Their also cheap at $18 each. http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=214product_id=531 http://tncscooters.com/image/cache/data/406150-500x500.jpg ST On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote: Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
Nice find Steve. I would have used those in the s-tank. The S-tank starter motor setup did work, but the rpm was 400% more than needed. To slow the tank down, I had to run the motors on 12v and at 20 - 25% throttle. That made the motors work inefficiently hard and build up huge amounts of heat. By the end of the last battle, the motors overheated. My fix is to eventually tank the starter motors apart, check the shaft size, and buy some large sized outrunners with more appropriate rpm per volts as well as for 24v operation. Mike M From: TyngTech steve...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 3:18 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project. TNC Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch. Their also cheap at $18 each. http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=214product_id=531 ST On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote: Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
It's looking nice!! Can you give dimensions of theses??? I got M01 Motor on my SU-76 but these motors look nice for futur project...!! And if possible more picks of them with the dimension of each step of gearing to see if it can fit directly on some drive wheels... Thank you Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 14:08:08 -0800 From: srwh7...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13 Steve, those look just like the starter motors i have sitting here stewart On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:18:29 PM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project. TNC Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch. Their also cheap at $18 each. http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=214product_id=531 ST On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote:Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea. Stewart -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
