[Repeater-Builder] KENWOOD TK 320 HAND HELDS
I KNOW THIS IS NOT MOTOROLA BUT I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE PROS IS THERE SOMEONE OUT THERE THAT REMEMBERS HOW TO PROGRAM THE KENWOOD TK320 UHF HANDHELDS, THEREE WAS A WAY TO DO IT BY SHORTING SOMETHING WHEN THE RADIO WAS POWERED UP THANK YOU .BOB ___ Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand. Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS
Hello Jay, The NHRC-4/M2 should work fine in your radio, as long as the proper modifications are made to the systems board. The CAS line is buffered with a transistor in the controller already. You might want to check that there are no other jumpers or modifications made to the systems board on the radio that could be causing you this grief. We have sold hundreds of those controllers; the problem you are experiencing is not typical. Something else is wrong. Regards, Jeff Otterson, N1KDO NHRC LLC At 11:32 PM 2/17/2005, you wrote: Hi Coy, I have a lot of different info now on trying to get a cos signal to my nhrc4/m2 controller. Can you give me the schematic for using the 2n transistor to buffer the cas line. Any and all suggestions will be used. Incidentally, the A- lines were not tied together, I had the TX on a 20amp power supply and the receiver on a deep cycle battery .so no A- were tied together. I will try all ideas and want to thank everyone on this list for their suggestions. I will report back on what works for me. Thanks again. Jay - Original Message - From: Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 11:04 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS If the A- are tied togeather then that's not the problem. I use the NHRC2 controller. The CAS doesn't like to source current. I always use a 2N or a NPN transistor and a 10k resistor connected to the CAS line to buffer it and it doesn't load down the CAS line. I hope this helps. AC0Y --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why didnt I think of thatknowing the ground is isolated...I have been tying the chassis together instead of the A-.. what was I thinking..Hmmm ! I will give it a try Bob... I am @ work @ firehouse right now but am anxious to get home and check that out. Even if that doesnt cure the problem , it makes things the way they should be, ground wise that is. Tnx againJay - Original Message - From: Bob Dengler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] M2 CAS At 2/17/2005 11:55 AM, you wrote: Thanks for the info Bob, I may try the high side inject...sure couldnt hurt, it would be much nicer to have one compact package than 2... as far as using the RUS... that didnt work either... not even enough voltage to fire up the controller... I may well have a controller problem with the NHRC /M2. Seems like the ground between the external Mastr II NHRC controller isn't good. Make sure the A- lines of both Mastr IIs are tied together (not just the chassis, which is DC isolated) before giving up on the separate Mastr II RX. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Source for Moto T1504 duplexer locking nuts?
There are at least two types of BpBr cavity as well. I have a homebrew T1504 duplexer using four Moto BpBr cavities. Two have the slotted 1/2 inch threads and lock nut. The other two have 1/2 inch mounting threads and no slots; the threads also do not extend far enough forward from the mounting nut to get anything else on there. However the 1/2 inch diameter piece is tapered in front of the mounting nut, as though perhaps some sort of nut is supposed to screw onto the tuning rod itself to jam against this tapered section? Some of these cavities may not have come from T1503/4 duplexers, but they are identical except for this lock nut situation. Paul On Friday 18 February 2005 01:09 am, Steve Rodgers wrote: Whoops that previous message was a little fast and loose; there are 2 types of Moto cavity. The cavity I just looked at was a bandpass only unit and it has the slots in the 1/2 inch threads as mentioned. The cavities from a BP/BR unit do not have the 1/2 inch slotted threads; instead only has non-slotted threads (at a larger diameter) for the mounting nut. It looks like there are two different locking solutions. The jam nuts work on the banpass only cans, but there must be something different for the BP/BR cans. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] What PA temp is too much?
Got a link? Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Henry Radio uses 125 degree thermo-switches on their commercial amps. If you check out their web page they sell the switches for $9.50 The switches are used to activate 12-V cooling fans on their amps. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpersfor a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to "Valueflex" on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to "sureflex" factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4-50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4-50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message-From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AMTo: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpersfor a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] tle 1713 amp circuits wanted
IT ME AGAIN. LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE THE TLE 1713 AMPIF BAD . TOOK IT APART AND A COUPLE OF THE 10 OHM RESISTOR IS BURN INTO WORK LIKE TO HAVE A PRINT OF THE CIRCUITS AND ORTHER INFO. ON IT. EMAIL OR A PLACE WHERE I CAN DOWNLOAD IT. N9FDF TOBY Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Neulink / Neutec and Repco
Let me scare you even more Mathew... Neutec made a base and mobile repeater using the duplex version of radios you mentioned. I have two of the full blown rack mount repeaters on the shelf here and the much coveted manual in my files. The radios are Eprom programed after you do the manual instructed binary math for picking your frequency. Kind of takes me back to the Bearcat 101 scanner days... They even make/made 800 ltr trunking radios. Like any radio of the era, they worked fine until you beat them up and tried to find parts and tech support from a local Dealer. The Neulink boards are all over the place, like Paul mentions... I first used them at 900 Mhz for a paging application. Along a theme are the Repco boards on surplus market. For a time, you could pick up a really nice 463 receiver strip off Ebay for about $10. The front ends are good enough to use them for basic tasks at semi busy locations. More fun small tx/rx boards are the small data units made by EF Johnson. cheers, skipp Mathew Quaife [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How would you rate them as far as being good or bad units? Mathew From: Paul Finch [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Mathew, Nope, I have about three different receivers and transmitters. Paul WB5IDM From: Mathew Quaife [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Wow and I thought I was the only one that had some Neulink stuff, as I never heard of it. I have a 2 meter receiver and transmitter radios. If you ever need the manuals, let me know, can take a copy of them. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Hi Mike, You are right, ValueFlex is NOT in Andrew Catalog 38 nor anywhere to be readilyfound. I was shopping the A/F CommSupply Catalogand found the ValueFlex jumpers on page 53. (Caution if downloading the catalog; it is 7 MB.) I think your advice to stick with SuperFlex is the best course to follow. Thanks... Doug - Original Message - From: Mike Perryman To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to "Valueflex" on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to "sureflex" factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4-50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4-50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message-From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AMTo: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpersfor a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Signal Reports from DH Voter. HOW
Depends on the controller you run. If your controller supports an input (a/d converter), which equates to a meter S value, you can interface to the vote reference bus. The bus value should indicate the relative best and selected received signal. If you want to select specific receivers, you'd have to switch and interface the controller a/d (s-meter) input to each receivers level bus/line. The receiver logic lines will tell you the status of each active signal and voted signal. The analog and reference bus lines can supply a relative value, which can be interfaced to a controller a/d input for selected s-meter values. Also depends on which model/version of the voter you have. cheers, skipp Kevin Natalia [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: HI All, I am setting up a Doug Hall Voter, with one main site, and 3 remotes. Then I was thinking, how can one make it, so that when a signal report is requested, it will give a reading from that remote. Looked through the manual, and could not find anything. So my question, is it possible to get some form of signal reading from the Voter as to the signal strength from that remote (Active RX). I can work out from the I-O lines how to program the controller to say Main, Remote 1 etc, but at this stage can only get a signal reading from the main RX, which is at the site. Thanks Kev. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer
Hello Eric, It is presently set up for 147.590 mhz. To be a repeater here in the local area. 73',s Reuben, W8GUC. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Reuben, To what frequencies is this duplexer currently tuned? 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Reuben Meeks wrote: I have a Decibel Products, DB4048, Duplexer in mint condition for sale. The frequency range is 146 to 174 MHz., in a weather proof cabinet. I was going to build a 2-meter repeater some years back but never got around to it. It is designed to handle 400 watts, and handle frequencies 0.5 MHz or greater of separation. It is a 6- cavity duplexer in a Hoffman Model A-30-24-16LP weather proof cabinet. I have the like new set of cables that were made for the duplexer. I am asking $575.00, plus shipping costs, or you may pick it up. You may contact me at work, (937)904-6783, or at home, (937) 454- 0968. I am located in Vandalia, near Dayton, Ohio. Thanks, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer
Hello Eric, It is presently tuned to 147.590/147.390 Mhz. With all the matched cables. Tuned by the DB Factory people. 73's, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Reuben, To what frequencies is this duplexer currently tuned? 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Reuben Meeks wrote: I have a Decibel Products, DB4048, Duplexer in mint condition for sale. The frequency range is 146 to 174 MHz., in a weather proof cabinet. I was going to build a 2-meter repeater some years back but never got around to it. It is designed to handle 400 watts, and handle frequencies 0.5 MHz or greater of separation. It is a 6- cavity duplexer in a Hoffman Model A-30-24-16LP weather proof cabinet. I have the like new set of cables that were made for the duplexer. I am asking $575.00, plus shipping costs, or you may pick it up. You may contact me at work, (937)904-6783, or at home, (937) 454- 0968. I am located in Vandalia, near Dayton, Ohio. Thanks, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: db 4001 to 220
Not knowing how much you shortened the tuning adjustment makes it hard to give an answer. But yes, you will probably have to shorten the cavity outer can/tube. Since you've gone this far... assemble the cavity leaving the bottom (cold end) snug fit in place and measure what you have. Remove small amounts of tube length from the bottom end of the cavity until you like the resultant range. You can rivet, solder or screw the tube end back on. Since it's the cold end of the cavity, you can get away with a bit of murder. cheers, skipp ps: make sure you have min critical length 220 loops installed. Extra length loops are better than undersized loops. Thomas Oliver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? I don't think it makes any difference what do ya think? I would like to know before I rivet it back together. tom n8ies Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Help ID a Celwave item?
Title: Help ID a Celwave item? Can anyone ID a Celwave HFD8461A? It looks like some type of notch filter. Has 2 female N connectors, 4 cavity, and says 144-160 Mhz on it. I cant find any reference to it on the web. TIA to all. Kevin K2KMB Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Signal Reports from DH Voter. HOW
Here we go again-Yaphooey put me in bounce status for no reason. They said msg #11290 in radios-4-sale bounced. The last msg in the group is 11153! dumb [EMAIL PROTECTED] Kevin Natalia wrote: HI All, I am setting up a Doug Hall Voter, with one main site, and 3 remotes. Then I was thinking, how can one make it, so that when a signal report is requested, it will give a reading from that remote. Looked through the manual, and could not find anything. So my question, is it possible to get some form of signal reading from the Voter as to the signal strength from that remote (Active RX). I can work out from the I-O lines how to program the controller to say Main, Remote 1 etc, but at this stage can only get a signal reading from the main RX, which is at the site. Thanks Kev. Weeelll, ACC had a op-amp circuit that sampled the quieting on the incoming signal and delivered a 0-5V analog output that could be measured with one of the A/D inputs on the RC850. You might find that circuit on the Link-Comm web site. That's the only way to do it. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] KENWOOD TK 320 HAND HELDS
Here we go again-Yaphooey put me in bounce status for no reason. They said msg #11290 in radios-4-sale bounced. The last msg in the group is 11153! dumb [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I KNOW THIS IS NOT MOTOROLA BUT I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE PROS This isn't a Motorola list, so it doesn't matter. IS THERE SOMEONE OUT THERE THAT REMEMBERS HOW TO PROGRAM THE KENWOOD TK320 UHF HANDHELDS, THEREE WAS A WAY TO DO IT BY SHORTING SOMETHING WHEN THE RADIO WAS POWERED UP THANK YOU .BOB You could do us a favor-turn off your caps lock! Most folks don't like to be shouted at! Thanks! -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer
Reuben Meeks wrote: Hello Eric, It is presently tuned to 147.590/147.390 Mhz. With all the matched cables. Tuned by the DB Factory people. 73's, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC. You mean 147.99/147.39. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Doug, I just looked at the page you mentioned... looks like maybe A/F commSupply is assembling then in-house or something. They claim to be using Anrew cable.. who knows, if they are local it could work to your advantage. The only issue might be that they are for "indoor" installations. Maybe they lack the shrink tube? Your call on which you use... I did notice FSJ4 was not in their line, only 1 and 2 (1/4" and 5/16" if I recall correctly) minor losses for that jumper length. But sturdiness may be an issue if the rack gets moved around a lot. mike -Original Message-From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 12:36 PMTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hi Mike, You are right, ValueFlex is NOT in Andrew Catalog 38 nor anywhere to be readilyfound. I was shopping the A/F CommSupply Catalogand found the ValueFlex jumpers on page 53. (Caution if downloading the catalog; it is 7 MB.) I think your advice to stick with SuperFlex is the best course to follow. Thanks... Doug - Original Message - From: Mike Perryman To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to "Valueflex" on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to "sureflex" factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4-50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4-50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message-From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AMTo: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpersfor a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] db224 modifications
Can someone direct me to the article regarding the conversion of a Decibel model DB224 commercial antenna (150-160 Mhz) to the amateur band ? Thanks in advance for your reply. Jeff Corkren/W5PPB Raymond, Mississippi Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220
At 2/17/2005 10:01 PM, you wrote: Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? No. I had this done to a similar 2 meter pass cavity it worked fine, though it does end up being much longer physically than it needs to be. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220
With the answer being NO you dont have to shorten the outer cavity, How does this affect the inseration loss ? - Original Message - From: Bob Dengler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 12:37 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220 At 2/17/2005 10:01 PM, you wrote: Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? No. I had this done to a similar 2 meter pass cavity it worked fine, though it does end up being much longer physically than it needs to be. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220
I have a question, how would the longer cavity housing affect the Q of the cavity itself, man I miss Wacom! Paul -Original Message- From: Brent [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 2:36 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220 With the answer being NO you dont have to shorten the outer cavity, How does this affect the inseration loss ? - Original Message - From: Bob Dengler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 12:37 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220 At 2/17/2005 10:01 PM, you wrote: Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? No. I had this done to a similar 2 meter pass cavity it worked fine, though it does end up being much longer physically than it needs to be. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Standard repeater
Hi Everyone I have a Standard RPT-10 repeater and I need a manual. I would be happy to pay for a copy or original if one is around. Thanks in advance. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Larry Kemper Muscatine, Iowa Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: tle 1713 amp circuits wanted
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Toby Hoover [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: IT ME AGAIN. LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE THE TLE 1713 AMP IF BAD . TOOK IT APART AND A COUPLE OF THE 10 OHM RESISTOR IS BURN INTO WORK LIKE TO HAVE A PRINT OF THE CIRCUITS AND ORTHER INFO. ON IT. EMAIL OR A PLACE WHERE I CAN DOWNLOAD IT. N9FDF TOBY Toby I am sure I have the manual on this as I have 3 of them in use. I will look it up scan it and let you know where it is over the week end. Larry WA0VUS Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Valuflex is the nickname for the slightly-lower-cost line of pre-made Superflex jumpers from Andrew. Valuflex jumpers use a machine-installed connector (most are crimped on), not the usual screw-together connectors that you would buy normally. I've used them a few times, but don't regularly buy them. I prefer to make my own jumpers; I've had problems with factory-made jumpers from both Andrew and Cablewave in the past. --- Jeff On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:36:01 -0600, Doug Zastrow wrote Hi Mike, You are right, ValueFlex is NOT in Andrew Catalog 38 nor anywhere to be readily found. I was shopping the A/F CommSupply Catalog and found the ValueFlex jumpers on page 53. (Caution if downloading the catalog; it is 7 MB.) I think your advice to stick with SuperFlex is the best course to follow. Thanks... Doug - Original Message - From: Mike Perryman To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to Valueflex on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to sureflex factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4- 50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4- 50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message- From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AM To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpers for a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: What PA temp is too much?
Digikey also sells a complete line of them. Click here: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T051/1132.pdf --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Henry Radio uses 125 degree thermo-switches on their commercial amps. If you check out their web page they sell the switches for $9.50 The switches are used to activate 12-V cooling fans on their amps. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220
Probably not. You would run into problems if you were extending the center conductor; as you get closer and closer to the bottom of the cavity you get more and more capacitance off the end of the center conductor as its lengthened. But obviously that's not the case here. If you haven't modified the loops yet, you may find that you need to. --- Jeff On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 01:01:22 -0500, Thomas Oliver wrote Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? I don't think it makes any difference what do ya think? I would like to know before I rivet it back together. tom n8ies Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] db 4001 to 220
As a general rule, the outer can has to be at least a can radius longer than the center resonator ie a 6 in can must be at least 3 inches longer than the resonator. There is no maximum length requirement on the outer can. Burt VE2BMQ Jeff DePolo wrote: Probably not. You would run into problems if you were extending the center conductor; as you get closer and closer to the bottom of the cavity you get more and more capacitance off the end of the center conductor as its lengthened. But obviously that's not the case here. If you haven't modified the loops yet, you may find that you need to. --- Jeff On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 01:01:22 -0500, Thomas Oliver wrote Needed a bandpass cavity for 220 not having one I modified one by shortening the inner plunger and the outer conductor. My question is do I need to shorten the outer cavity? I don't think it makes any difference what do ya think? I would like to know before I rivet it back together. tom n8ies Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] M2 Cas
To all who responded to my plea for help, THANK YOU. My CAS problem is resolved. It was merely no connection to A- between drawer units. I forgot about the isolated chassis and had both drawer units grounded to each other via the frame work. After scratching, kicking and biting myself for 2-3 hrs I finally broke down and ask for help from the repeater builders and GE group. As usual, you guys came through. It was indeed a large over site and I feel extremely happy that its resolved. Thanks again Guys for all the help. signed Jay AA9YP Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Jeff, I too, have had issues in the past with Cablewave products. Specifiaclly when buried, or run up a tower exposed to the elements. I build AM directional facilities. No matter what lengths you go to to keep a buried line dry (mine are usually buried in a piece of sched. 40 PVC pipe) water entered through the outer conductor. On a tower a rigger sometimes nicks a jacket while working water then gets between the jacket and outer conductor. With Cablewave it always caused problems. Seems the Cablewave method of edge welding the outer conductor was never 100% water-tight. Any nick in the outer jacket usually resulted in water getting into the foam. It has gotten better of the years. But my money is on the Andrew product, no water yet... and I always install my own connectors. Also our local ham assoc. bought some pre-fabbed jumpers from a guy in PA (to remain nameless). He used crimped connectors. After moving the rack around a few times the ends loosened and caused mucho problems. I put the old superflex jumpers we had made back in the circuit, and the problems went away. An old engineer once told me if you need it done correctly the first time, you better do it yourself. Then you only have yourself to blame if there are problems. Just my 2 cents... mike -Original Message- From: Jeff DePolo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 4:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Valuflex is the nickname for the slightly-lower-cost line of pre-made Superflex jumpers from Andrew. Valuflex jumpers use a machine-installed connector (most are crimped on), not the usual screw-together connectors that you would buy normally. I've used them a few times, but don't regularly buy them. I prefer to make my own jumpers; I've had problems with factory-made jumpers from both Andrew and Cablewave in the past. --- Jeff On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:36:01 -0600, Doug Zastrow wrote Hi Mike, You are right, ValueFlex is NOT in Andrew Catalog 38 nor anywhere to be readily found. I was shopping the A/F CommSupply Catalog and found the ValueFlex jumpers on page 53. (Caution if downloading the catalog; it is 7 MB.) I think your advice to stick with SuperFlex is the best course to follow. Thanks... Doug - Original Message - From: Mike Perryman To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to Valueflex on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to sureflex factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4- 50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4- 50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message- From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AM To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpers for a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Sorry about the fat-fingered spelling g! mike At 05:08 PM 02/18/2005 -0500, you wrote: Jeff, I too, have had issues in the past with Cablewave products. Specifiaclly when buried, or run up a tower exposed to the elements. I build AM directional facilities. No matter what lengths you go to to keep a buried line dry (mine are usually buried in a piece of sched. 40 PVC pipe) water entered through the outer conductor. On a tower a rigger sometimes nicks a jacket while working water then gets between the jacket and outer conductor. With Cablewave it always caused problems. Seems the Cablewave method of edge welding the outer conductor was never 100% water-tight. Any nick in the outer jacket usually resulted in water getting into the foam. It has gotten better of the years. But my money is on the Andrew product, no water yet... and I always install my own connectors. Also our local ham assoc. bought some pre-fabbed jumpers from a guy in PA (to remain nameless). He used crimped connectors. After moving the rack around a few times the ends loosened and caused mucho problems. I put the old superflex jumpers we had made back in the circuit, and the problems went away. An old engineer once told me if you need it done correctly the first time, you better do it yourself. Then you only have yourself to blame if there are problems. Just my 2 cents... mike -Original Message- From: Jeff DePolo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 4:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Valuflex is the nickname for the slightly-lower-cost line of pre-made Superflex jumpers from Andrew. Valuflex jumpers use a machine-installed connector (most are crimped on), not the usual screw-together connectors that you would buy normally. I've used them a few times, but don't regularly buy them. I prefer to make my own jumpers; I've had problems with factory-made jumpers from both Andrew and Cablewave in the past. --- Jeff On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:36:01 -0600, Doug Zastrow wrote Hi Mike, You are right, ValueFlex is NOT in Andrew Catalog 38 nor anywhere to be readily found. I was shopping the A/F CommSupply Catalog and found the ValueFlex jumpers on page 53. (Caution if downloading the catalog; it is 7 MB.) I think your advice to stick with SuperFlex is the best course to follow. Thanks... Doug - Original Message - From: Mike Perryman To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Doug, Youve got me stumped... I can find no references to Valueflex on the Andrew site, or in catalog 38. I did see a reference to sureflex factory made jumpers... I hate to hazard a guess... other than to say I personally would stick with the standard FSJ4-50B (also known as superflex), or LDF4- 50A(low-loss cable). For short jumper type runs, the standard FSJ4- 50B cable should be more than sufficient. Sorry I can't be more helpful... mike -Original Message- From: Doug Zastrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:18 AM To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers Hello All, I'm selecting replacement jumpers for a two-meter repeater system. Specifically the repeater to duplexer and duplexer antenna port to antenna Heliax jumpers. Andrew offers Valueflex and Superflexible jumpers. Should I steer clear of the Valueflex? Thanks Doug, WB0UPJ Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links - Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz Davis, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Consulting Engineers http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue K5JMPManassas, VA 20109 USA (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax; DC Line (202) 332-0110 - Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 17:08:59 -0500, Mike Perryman wrote Jeff, I too, have had issues in the past with Cablewave products. Specifiaclly when buried, or run up a tower exposed to the elements. I build AM directional facilities. No matter what lengths you go to to keep a buried line dry (mine are usually buried in a piece of sched. 40 PVC pipe) water entered through the outer conductor. On a tower a rigger sometimes nicks a jacket while working water then gets between the jacket and outer conductor. With Cablewave it always caused problems. I can't say I've had many problems with Cablewave foam-dielectric cables in the situations you describe (either on a tower or buried). I've had problems with factory-made jumpers, and in all cases, the problem turned out to be that there was a cold solder joint on the center pin or, in the case of the solder-less types, that the residual adhesive/film on the center conductor was not adequately removed (i.e. poor contact). I have first-hand experience with failure of Cablewave air-dielectric cables. The most recent was a run of 3 1/8. The internal spacers collapsed along a segment of cable where it made a gentle bend (several times greater than Cablewave's minimum bend radius), resulting in the center conductor migrating toward the shield and arcing over at 29 kW TPO. If it's my money, I always buy Andrew. Seems the Cablewave method of edge welding the outer conductor was never 100% water-tight. Any nick in the outer jacket usually resulted in water getting into the foam. It has gotten better of the years. But my money is on the Andrew product, no water yet... and I always install my own connectors. Eventually it seems water always finds some way of getting into the jacket of Heliax. The real issue is where the water goes after that. Water trapped between the jacket and outer conductor is harmless. Water that is trapped between the jacket and outer conductor that has gravity forcing it into the connector at the bottom end is another story. An old engineer once told me if you need it done correctly the first time, you better do it yourself. Then you only have yourself to blame if there are problems. If you're the engineer and it fails, somehow it ends up being your fault whether it's your mistake or the factory's... --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Valueflex vs. Superflexible Jumpers
Hey Mike and the group, If water is the problem look into Com scope you will never get water in. I was at a Comm scope class one time and at the be gaining of the class they put a 1' peace of Andrews 7/8's and the same of Com scope in a five gallon buck. They had the class about 90 minutes or so. After the break they slit both hard-line (type coax) and water poured out of the Andrews not one drop out of the Comm Scope. Real neat! The down fall is that Comm Scope is very hard to work with. If it is cold it comes off the real and stays that way. Any one who has worked with it can say it will not lay flat. But water will not get into it. Com Scope claims it is there tight foam that they use. Dean Westbrook, EE, PE. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS
Add me to the list who couldnot get a 443/448 pair to duplex in the same chassis. Nothing I tried would ever work. Way too much desense. That wasabout 5 years ago, and I remember someone saying then that 443/448 was a mission, and for some unknown reason would not duplex efficiently in the Mastr II chassis. I went the route of 2separate chassis. Works FB now... But...I see the posters dilemna...If one has to use a separate for the RX and TX, sort of makes the NHRC-4/M2's custom and easy application a moot point. Maybe something you want to look at, Jeff. If I recall correctly, there are SEVERAL that could not duplex a 443/448 pair in the same chassis without VERY noticeable desense. Regardless of brand of controller. Henry, KC4KZT ---Original Message--- From: Jeff Otterson Date: 02/18/05 06:34:57 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS Hello Jay, The NHRC-4/M2 should work fine in your radio, as long as the proper modifications are made to the systems board.The CAS line is buffered with a transistor in the controller already. You might want to check that there are no other jumpers or modifications made to the systems board on the radio that could be causing you this grief. We have sold hundreds of those controllers; the problem you are experiencing is not typical.Something else is wrong. Regards, Jeff Otterson, N1KDO NHRC LLC Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer
Hello Jim, Yes, I stand corrected. It is tuned from the factory for 147.990/147.390 mhz. 73's, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Reuben Meeks wrote: Hello Eric, It is presently tuned to 147.590/147.390 Mhz. With all the matched cables. Tuned by the DB Factory people. 73's, Reuben Meeks, W8GUC. You mean 147.99/147.39. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] FS: CAT RLS-1000 RB switch
Our club has a New and never used CAT RLS-1000 Remote base port switch for sale.. Our linking plans changed and this is surplus to us now.. $100 shipped or Best offer.. Please contact me direct.. -73, Pete N2MCI (n2mci (at) arrl net) Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS
Okay Jay, try the circuit that I emailed you and let me know. The transistor is a 2N NPN. These things can be had at radio shack cheep. or try robbing a NPN from a junk board, most any NPN will work. 73 and good luck AC0Y --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Coy, I have a lot of different info now on trying to get a cos signal to my nhrc4/m2 controller. Can you give me the schematic for using the 2n transistor to buffer the cas line. Any and all suggestions will be used. Incidentally, the A- lines were not tied together, I had the TX on a 20amp power supply and the receiver on a deep cycle battery .so no A- were tied together. I will try all ideas and want to thank everyone on this list for their suggestions. I will report back on what works for me. Thanks again. Jay - Original Message - From: Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 11:04 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: M2 CAS If the A- are tied togeather then that's not the problem. I use the NHRC2 controller. The CAS doesn't like to source current. I always use a 2N or a NPN transistor and a 10k resistor connected to the CAS line to buffer it and it doesn't load down the CAS line. I hope this helps. AC0Y --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why didnt I think of thatknowing the ground is isolated...I have been tying the chassis together instead of the A-.. what was I thinking..Hmmm ! I will give it a try Bob... I am @ work @ firehouse right now but am anxious to get home and check that out. Even if that doesnt cure the problem , it makes things the way they should be, ground wise that is. Tnx againJay - Original Message - From: Bob Dengler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] M2 CAS At 2/17/2005 11:55 AM, you wrote: Thanks for the info Bob, I may try the high side inject...sure couldnt hurt, it would be much nicer to have one compact package than 2... as far as using the RUS... that didnt work either... not even enough voltage to fire up the controller... I may well have a controller problem with the NHRC /M2. Seems like the ground between the external Mastr II NHRC controller isn't good. Make sure the A- lines of both Mastr IIs are tied together (not just the chassis, which is DC isolated) before giving up on the separate Mastr II RX. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] 220 Repeater
Hello all, I am looking for a complete ready to use repeater for 220Mhz. Anyone have one for sale? Danny Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help ID a Celwave item?
Kevin, The Motorola HFD8461A Preselector is identical to the RFS/Celwave PD911-PB4-1-2 except for the N connectors. This is an optional accessory for the GR1225, RKR1225, and similar low-tier packaged repeaters. It is specified for a 2 MHz bandwidth and 2.25 dB insertion loss. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Kevin Bednar wrote: Can anyone ID a Celwave HFD8461A? It looks like some type of notch filter. Has 2 female N connectors, 4 cavity, and says 144-160 MHz on it. I can't find any reference to it on the web. TIA to all. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Source for Moto T1504 duplexer locking nuts?
3/8 in. It is too far to the site for me to check the TPI. Wonder if they are 24 TPI? Kenneth P. Cook Jr., W8DZN President, Bucyrus Amateur Radio Club Assistant Emergency Coordinator for Crawford Marion Co., Ohio Winlink 2000 Representative for District 6 ARRL VE, ARRL Registered, Certified Instructor/Examiner for ECOMM Levels I, II and III. -Original Message- From: Steve Rodgers [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 10:22 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Source for Moto T1504 duplexer locking nuts? Hi, I received these today, and they are way too big! They just slide right over the threads. The diameter of the threaded rod is smaller than 1/2. I measured with my dial calipers and the diameter is more like 0.370. Steve WA6ZFT On Wednesday 16 February 2005 07:50, Jack Davis wrote: 94830A550 Cadmium-Plated Stl Hex Thin Flex-Top Locknut 1/2-20 Screw Size, 3/4 Width, 21/64 Height In stock at $10.91 per Pack This item is only sold in Packs of 10 Packs of 10 http://www.mcmaster.com/ Here you go! Jack K6YC - Original Message - From: mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 1:17 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Source for Moto T1504 duplexer locking nuts? Well, this will give you the specs on it. It subs to another number, and that other part is NLA, but the description is still there. ___ Item number. 0210397A06* The item 0210397A06 has been replaced with 0210348A05. Selecting this item will add 0210348A05 to your cart. 0210348A05: Item has been cancelled NUTLCK 1/2-20X5/16 HEX STL CAD Unit of Measure: 3 PK ___ Joe M. Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote: At 12:59 PM 2/15/05, you wrote: I have a Motorola T1504 duplexer in need of 4 locking nuts. The locking nut part number is 2-10397A06, but a call to Motorola parts indicates the part number isn't on file. Does anyone have any recommendations for a substitute part, and do they know what the nut size and thread pitch are for the locking nut? Steve WA6ZFT As I understand from a friend they've been NLA for a few years. I need 6 or so and am almost ready to call in a favor and have a friend make some on a lathe, starting with hex stock. Mike Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 220 Repeater
Danny Contact me during the week 800-298-2850 re 220 FM Repeater Ed Folta Com/Rad Inc - Original Message - From: jhoonbee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 9:57 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 220 Repeater Hello all, I am looking for a complete ready to use repeater for 220Mhz. Anyone have one for sale? Danny Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
