Re: [Repeater-Builder] LMR-400 Noise question?

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

At 06:01 PM 03/13/08, you wrote:

I have seen the emails regarding the noise problems with the LMR type
feedline. What I can't find is any on-line documentation that states the
problems in duplex service and what is actually going on. I personally
know what is going on (dis-similar metals ,foil, braid, etc...). I just
need a document to refer the powers that be so they can have it as a
tool

I did a quick check on the web with Google and on the Repeater builder
site, but very little info...

Any help would be great..

Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ


See "Recommended Coax and Connectors for the iDEN 
Enhanced Base Transceiver System"
at 



"Motorola Engineering wrote this three page 
discussion of cable types, connector types, with 
regard to combining, intermodulation, and other 
RF performace factors. They concluded that 
LMR-nnn and LMR- series cable is specifically 
NOT recommended in radio site RF environments, 
especially duplex environments. While iDEN is a 
900mhz system the physics is the same at 28 mhz through 1296mhz."

[Repeater-Builder] R2001 Service monitor question

[ks4ec]

Sorry if this is a little off topic.

I have located what appears to be a Motorola R2001 service monitor, 
although there is no model number sticker on it.

I identified it by the pics on the net.

Does anyone know what the difference between the A-B-C and D versions 
is. and can you tell by looking at it.

Also everything I see on the net says this has a sweep generator, some 
say this is used for tuning duplexors.

I have heard of both a sweep generator and a tracking generator. I 
know you use a tracking generator but is a sweep generator the same 
thing just a different name?

Thanks in advance - Rob

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

[Peter Dakota Summerhawk]

Checking with the license two of the stations are 200 some miles away at
another little America, so we have one frequency on site so we need a
new pair to be able to be complaint. 
 
Peter Dakota Summerhawk
 
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 3:58 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
 
In a message dated 3/13/2008 11:20:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Maybe it is not too late to "turn down" the contract. Did you really
think you would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they
not totally upfront about what they had and wanted. 

You can't control what the FCC allows. 

You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. 

Michael 
You are already licensed for the VHF frequencies you need. It should not
be a problem to modify the license
for repeater operation. Weather it will meet your customers expectations
remains to be seen.
 
Chris
 



   _  

It's Tax Time! HYPERLINK
"http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301"; \nGet tips, forms
and advice on AOL Money & Finance.
 

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3/13/2008 11:31 AM
 

RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

[Dakota Summerhawk]

The simplex system is not working hence the reason they need a repeater. I got 
the fcc form filled out to get a vhf pair in the area for them so we will see. 
The system was abandoned by the former shop as they went out of business so its 
just me now for the system to get them up and running.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 3/13/08 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

Maybe it is not too late to "turn down" the contract.  Did you really think you 
would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally 
upfront about what they had and wanted.  

You can't control what the FCC allows. 

You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. 

Michael

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Dakota Summerhawk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:16:05 
To:
Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related


I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is
not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF
radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of
getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have
known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract.


Peter Dakota Summerhawk

[Repeater-Builder] DB 224 antenna for sale tuned for the 2meter ham band

[ks4ec]

Due to a purchasing mixup our ham radio club has this antenna for sale 
new in the box. It was ordered for the 2m ham band at 144-148, our 
repeater is at the high end of the band.

We are located in South Florida and I might be talked into meeting 
someone half way in South Florida to avoid shipping charges and 
problems, otherwise due to its size it will need to be sent freight.

This is a great antenna for a repeater as many of you are already 
familure with it.

Our club is asking $400 for this antenna but any reasonable offer will 
be considered by the board.

Please email me off list if you are interested at 

ROBP(AT)JFCSOnline(DOT)COM

Thanks - Rob - KS4EC

[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-400 Noise question?

[nj902]

Andrew has a technical paper that compares Heliax to braid-foil cables
at:

http://www.andrew.com/search/BN_SP30-27.aspx


--
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

"...I just need a document ..."

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[Kris Kirby]

On Thu, 13 Mar 2008, Ron Wright wrote:
> Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt.  However, where all this 
> power is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs.  
> Looks good on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal.

What kind of spectrum do you receive anally? 
 
--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. 
--rly

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[jgielis]

Ken & Co

I'd like to put my hat in the ring here..

Back in the 90's a Diamond 23A 2M antenna was at 5000' for 10 years
before it was replaced. It stood off the SE corner of a 300 meter national 
transmitter tower at about the 30M section, and serviced a vast area of 
country. 
The tower was on top of the coastal range in North Queensland. The prevailing 
SE 
weather was a constant worry for the tower repair crew, and often salt crystal 
could be found in dry weather.
When the antenna was removed from the site, it was very evident that one side 
of 
the radome was more opaque than the other, which was put down to the SE weather.
The gland "O" rings had completely broken down into black powder, and about 5 
ounces of water was drained from the radome.
It went back into service on a packet BBS at sea level for many years there- 
after, having been recoated and a hole in the base to drain any condensation.
If I recall correctly, the collinear solder joints were silver soldered before 
it was delivered to the tower crew.

John

Ken Arck wrote:
> At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote:
> 
>> Cort,
>>  
>>  
>> (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In 
>> theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In 
>> long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down 
>> under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may 
>> allow water migration through the radome.
> 
> 
> <-I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing 
> goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the outer 
> end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and have never 
> had water penetration. Not once.
> 
>>  
>> (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass 
>> radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a 
>> brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer.
> 
> <---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the 
> antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing 
> longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 
> years old).
> 
> 
> Ken 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Paul Plack]

Cort, good deal. Just remember that shrink-wrap was designed assuming it 
would never see sunlight. It may, or may not stand up to UV any better that 
Scotch 33.

- Original Message - 
From: "Cort Buffington" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna


>A friend and I used direct-burial heat shrink tubing with some kind of
> sealing goo in it on a multi-piece antenna and did a PVC holder for
> the top end. We were pretty happy with it, but I've heard so much
> about how great the folded dipole antennas are that I was unsure if I
> was really missing out with poor performance. I've since moved from
> that town, but understand the antenna was change b/c a commercial
> antenna of some sort was available. I never found out if the Comet
> "survived" or if it was torn down and inspected.
>
> I was honestly just considering a Diamond X50NA or a Hustler G6-270 so
> I wouldn't have to worry about joints or extra long flapping in the
> wind. There's a DB420 sticking out of the top of the tower -- I have
> the position directly below it, so I can side-mount and do whatever I
> want - and will be less likely to take a direct lightning strike. It
> is a tower on a farm for a farm repeater, and after running our two
> frequencies, I see we have little intermod issues to worry about. I
> also have a DB-420 I could use... Oh, decisions :)
>
> Thanks as usual for the input guys, it is invaluable to me.
>
> 73 DE N0MJS
>
> P.S. Ken, using dual-band and remote base is directly related to my
> post on the RC-210 list regarding the TM-271A a couple of days ago.
>
> On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Ken Arck wrote:
>
>> At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote:
>>
>>> Cort,
>>>
>>>
>>> (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In
>>> theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In
>>> long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break
>>> down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass,
>>> which may allow water migration through the radome.
>>
>>
>> <-I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing
>> goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the
>> outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and
>> have never had water penetration. Not once.
>>
>>>
>>> (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass
>>> radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted,
>>> with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last
>>> much longer.
>>
>> <---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the
>> antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing
>> longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10
>> years old).
>>
>>
>> Ken
>> --
>> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
>> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
>> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
>> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
>> we offer complete repeater packages!
>> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
>> http://www.irlp.net
>> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>>
>>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 






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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Cort Buffington]

A friend and I used direct-burial heat shrink tubing with some kind of  
sealing goo in it on a multi-piece antenna and did a PVC holder for  
the top end. We were pretty happy with it, but I've heard so much  
about how great the folded dipole antennas are that I was unsure if I  
was really missing out with poor performance. I've since moved from  
that town, but understand the antenna was change b/c a commercial  
antenna of some sort was available. I never found out if the Comet  
"survived" or if it was torn down and inspected.

I was honestly just considering a Diamond X50NA or a Hustler G6-270 so  
I wouldn't have to worry about joints or extra long flapping in the  
wind. There's a DB420 sticking out of the top of the tower -- I have  
the position directly below it, so I can side-mount and do whatever I  
want - and will be less likely to take a direct lightning strike. It  
is a tower on a farm for a farm repeater, and after running our two  
frequencies, I see we have little intermod issues to worry about. I  
also have a DB-420 I could use... Oh, decisions :)

Thanks as usual for the input guys, it is invaluable to me.

73 DE N0MJS

P.S. Ken, using dual-band and remote base is directly related to my  
post on the RC-210 list regarding the TM-271A a couple of days ago.

On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Ken Arck wrote:

> At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote:
>
>> Cort,
>>
>>
>> (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In  
>> theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In  
>> long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break  
>> down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass,  
>> which may allow water migration through the radome.
>
>
> <-I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing  
> goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the  
> outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and  
> have never had water penetration. Not once.
>
>>
>> (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass  
>> radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted,  
>> with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last  
>> much longer.
>
> <---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the  
> antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing  
> longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10  
> years old).
>
>
> Ken
> --
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>
> 






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Mastr II 110w repeater

[Eric Lemmon]

I hate to be a nag, but it would also be helpful if you provided some
combination and/or module part numbers.  I am not being sarcastic, just
realistic.  If you can identify exactly by part or model number what you
have, it makes it much easier for the Elmers on this list to zero in on the
problem and make constructive suggestions.

There are several different Mastr II VHF transmitters, which one do you
have?  Which LBI are you using to troubleshoot?

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kd5inn
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 6:14 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Master II 110w repeater


I'm sorry, I forgot to put in that this is a vhf repeater.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 , "kd5inn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> I recently aquired a Mastr II repeater. It turns out that it was 
only 
> putting out 3.5 watts. After a look around here, I was able to get 
the 
> pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic 
> filter. Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, 
and 
> even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa 
> board, nothing happens. I need to turn the power down, but it 
doesn't 
> seem to respond. Any ideas??
> 
> kd5inn

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Ken Arck]

At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote:


Cort,


(1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In 
theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In 
long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down 
under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which 
may allow water migration through the radome.



<-I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing 
goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the 
outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and 
have never had water penetration. Not once.




(2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass 
radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with 
a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer.


<---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the 
antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing 
longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 years old).



Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Paul Plack]

Cort,

The problems most people have with colinears in radomes is (1) leakage of water 
into antennas assembled from more than one section, (2) internal connections 
which break or develop intermittents, and (3) they're often completely 
destroyed in a lightning strike, sometimes spectacularly, because the 
small-diamater conductors vaporize inside the sealed radome, causing an 
explosion.

(1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In theory, the 
right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In long-term 
installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break down under UV radiation 
from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, which may allow water migration 
through the radome.

(2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass radome 
antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, with a brace for the 
top to stop waving in the wind, they can last much longer.

(3) Some people swear by various lightning arrestor or static-dissipation 
schemes. I have no personal experience here. Others just put up a heavy-duty 
exposed-dipole array, which can often live through direct lightning hits with 
only cosmetic damage.

Some people have good luck with Diamond or Comet, especially at sites with low 
potential for intermod.

73,
Paul, AE4KR


  - Original Message - 
  From: Cort Buffington 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 1:36 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna


  Folks,

  I've been doing TONS of reading. Mostly I'm hearing that fiberglass 
  radome antennas aren't so good in repeater service. I'm looking for a 
  dual-band antenna (2m/70cm) for a 70cm repeater and 2m remote base. 
  I'm not finding much that isn't a fiberglass radome. I'm not set on a 
  huge antenna -- moderate gain would be fine. Any suggestions before I 
  just say forget about it and just put up a DB-408 or DB-420 for the 
  repeater and run the remote base on something 25' up the tower?

  73 DE N0MJS


   

[Repeater-Builder] LMR-400 Noise question?

[Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ]

I have seen the emails regarding the noise problems with the LMR type 
feedline. What I can't find is any on-line documentation that states the 
problems in duplex service and what is actually going on. I personally 
know what is going on (dis-similar metals ,foil, braid, etc...). I just 
need a document to refer the powers that be so they can have it as a 
tool

I did a quick check on the web with Google and on the Repeater builder 
site, but very little info...

Any help would be great..

Bryon Jeffers KØBSJ

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Ken Arck]

At 05:12 PM 3/13/2008, Terry wrote:

>I have a Diamond X50 high atop the School gym roof at about 1588 ft
>asl. It runs into a MFJ diplexer and serves a 20 watt 440 repeater and
>65 watt 2 meter tranceiver just fine.

<--I ran a Diamond X300 on top of Mt Haleakala on Maui at 
10,000'  for years. It survived many wind and ice storms just fine

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Terry]

I have a Diamond X50 high atop the School gym roof at about 1588 ft 
asl. It runs into a MFJ diplexer and serves a 20 watt 440 repeater and 
65 watt 2 meter tranceiver just fine.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

[N9LLO]

 
In a message dated 3/13/2008 11:20:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Maybe  it is not too late to "turn down" the contract. Did you really think 
you would  be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally 
upfront  about what they had and wanted. 

You can't control what the FCC allows.  

You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. 

Michael  



You are already licensed for the VHF frequencies you need. It should not be  
a problem to modify the license
for repeater operation. Weather it will meet your customers expectations  
remains to be seen.
 
Chris

 



**It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.  (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301)

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[DCFluX]

I'd try a 2m folded dipole array in 3/4 wave mode for the 440

[Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna

[Cort Buffington]

Folks,

I've been doing TONS of reading. Mostly I'm hearing that fiberglass  
radome antennas aren't so good in repeater service. I'm looking for a  
dual-band antenna (2m/70cm) for a 70cm repeater and 2m remote base.  
I'm not finding much that isn't a fiberglass radome. I'm not set on a  
huge antenna -- moderate gain would be fine. Any suggestions before I  
just say forget about it and just put up a DB-408 or DB-420 for the  
repeater and run the remote base on something 25' up the tower?

73 DE N0MJS

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[kd5inn]

I spoke to a tech at a local radio shop, and he seemed to think that 
there might be a transistor shorted.  He mentioned a large transistor 
that attaches to the frame of the radio, and I do recall seeing some 
modification around there.  I know just enough to be a little 
dangerous, so I guess I'll get a little curious tonight, and hope for 
the best.  I'd be open to buying a spare pa board if someone happened 
to have one laying around.


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Bob,
> 
> I've seen on spectrum anal spur problems with radio shops turning 
up the power on GE Mastr IIs and get lots of unwanted spurs out of 
the PAs.  This was done of course as to impress the customer with a 
watt meter.
> 
> It also may not happen on the bench for a short time, but with use 
it can get worse.
> 
> I've seen it in other PAs, some linear or were linear when operated 
correctly.
> 
> I would say in most cases it was with the earlier versions.
> 
> 73, ron, n9ee/r
> 
> 
> 
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 10:36:28 CDT
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II  110w repeater
> 
> >  
> >At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote:
> >
> >>Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all 
this power 
> >>is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. 
Looks good 
> >>on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal.
> >
> >I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective 
(bad 
> >transistor, filter cap, etc.).  Many G.E. RFPAs will output well 
in excess 
> >of their rating, & do so cleanly.  I have a "25 watt" VHFHB MVP 
that will 
> >do over 50 watts.  The real reason you don't want to do this is 
that the 
> >PCB & chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very 
long, 
> >resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe.
> >
> >>You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral 
reasons
> >
> >No.
> >
> >>  and also for life of the PA.
> >
> >Yes.
> >
> >Bob NO6B
> >
> >
> 
> 
> Ron Wright, N9EE
> 727-376-6575
> MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
> Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
> No tone, all are welcome.
>

Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[Ron Wright]

Bob,

I've seen on spectrum anal spur problems with radio shops turning up the power 
on GE Mastr IIs and get lots of unwanted spurs out of the PAs.  This was done 
of course as to impress the customer with a watt meter.

It also may not happen on the bench for a short time, but with use it can get 
worse.

I've seen it in other PAs, some linear or were linear when operated correctly.

I would say in most cases it was with the earlier versions.

73, ron, n9ee/r



>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 10:36:28 CDT
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II  110w repeater

>  
>At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote:
>
>>Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power 
>>is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good 
>>on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal.
>
>I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective (bad 
>transistor, filter cap, etc.).  Many G.E. RFPAs will output well in excess 
>of their rating, & do so cleanly.  I have a "25 watt" VHFHB MVP that will 
>do over 50 watts.  The real reason you don't want to do this is that the 
>PCB & chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very long, 
>resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe.
>
>>You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons
>
>No.
>
>>  and also for life of the PA.
>
>Yes.
>
>Bob NO6B
>
>


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.

Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

[michaelhq54]

Maybe it is not too late to "turn down" the contract.  Did you really think you 
would be able to get them licensed to a VHF pair, or were they not totally 
upfront about what they had and wanted.  

You can't control what the FCC allows. 

You could just make a go of it with a simplex system. 

Michael

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Dakota Summerhawk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 00:16:05 
To:
Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related


I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is
not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF
radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of
getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have
known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract.


Peter Dakota Summerhawk


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:56 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

Peter,

What type HTs do they have.  One does not see HTs with mWs except for
PRS, the small cheap radios in the 462 range.  So their HTs might have
power, 2-4 W, to cover the grounds.

As you proably know the UHF would get out of holes (hotel walls, etc)
better, but guess not an option.

Covering the 50 acres is no problem, covering from inside
rooms/hallways, etc can be.

I would try for a remoted base with roof antenna.  This will not improve
HT-HT coverage, would give someone better coverage which is probably
important...if the management can talk this often determines if the
system is working.  Few listen to the people who actually do the
work...way it is.

Another solution would be a repeater, low power, 10 W.  Mot has some
very good GR300 using couple of their Radius line rigs mounted in a box.
Since commerical would require 2 freq and if 5 MHz apart could use
mobile type duplexer.  All fits in a small 10w x 10d x 12h or so
including power supply.  The HTs would probably need to be reprogrammed
and the proper license obtained.

73, ron, n9ee/r




>From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/08 Sat AM 09:18:11 CST
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

>  
>
>Thehotel that I am contracted for has just spent $50 million for a
renovation buthas already bought new VHF radios, believe mw when I
suggested that they go toUHF they balked at the idea of having to buy
new radios as part of therenovation was the new handhelds sold to them
by a different company in townthat assured them that the new radios
would cover the 50 some odd acres ofproperty that they own. So its up to
me now to get thethings in order to get a system that works for the
least money.
>Go figure.
> 
>Peter Dakota Summerhawk
> 
>-Original Message-
>From:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G Shaw
>Sent: Saturday, March 08, 20085:55 AM
>To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder]Need some help-Commercial related
> 
>You will find as I have that the FCC will not permit aVHF highband
repeater with a non-govt lic. such as business orindustrial.  IB etc.  
>You may be able to bootleg it but you will rcv a ceaseand desist from
the FCC when they become aware of it.  The Coordinatorssuch as NABER
will just reject it.  If you need a repeater you will haveto consider a
narror band UHF application.  If you decide to stickwith  high band then
simplex would be the route to go.  
>Glenn 
>-Original Message- 
>From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Milt 
>Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48AM 
>To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Needsome help-Commercial related 
>The simple answer to your question is the pair thatgives the most
seperation. There are many more things to take intoconsideration.  This
is where a firm that is familure with the ins andouts of commercial
licensing is invaluable.  While the 151.835 may bemodified for a FB2 and
paired with 157.695, the coordinating agency may or maynot grant
coordination.  
>  
>Another thing to consider is thatwhile you can sell this customer a
cheap older repeater, the TK-720 is not approvedfor narrowband operation
IIRC.  Even if the current license allows +/-5Khz deviation a new grant
or modification will most likely require +/- 2.5 Khzdeviation.  Since
the deadline for conversion to narrowband is 2013 (5years away) one
should give serious consideration to how upgrading will takeplace.
>  
>- Original Message - 
>From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk  
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:37 AM 
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial rela

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[no6b]

At 3/13/2008 06:35, you wrote:

>Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt. However, where all this power 
>is in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs. Looks good 
>on watt meter, but not on spectrum anal.

I have never seen this on a Mastr II PA unless it was defective (bad 
transistor, filter cap, etc.).  Many G.E. RFPAs will output well in excess 
of their rating, & do so cleanly.  I have a "25 watt" VHFHB MVP that will 
do over 50 watts.  The real reason you don't want to do this is that the 
PCB & chassis design will not handle the dissipated power for very long, 
resulting in heat-related failures such as you describe.

>You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons

No.

>  and also for life of the PA.

Yes.

Bob NO6B

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Master II 110w repeater

[kd5inn]

I'm sorry, I forgot to put in that this is a vhf repeater.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "kd5inn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I recently aquired a master II repeater.  It turns out that it was 
only 
> putting out 3.5 watts.  After a look around here, I was able to get 
the 
> pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic 
> filter.  Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, 
and 
> even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa 
> board, nothing happens.  I need to turn the power down, but it 
doesn't 
> seem to respond.  Any ideas??
> 
> kd5inn
>

[Repeater-Builder] Micor Equipment Available

[jtransue2000]

Bob,

 

I could use a duplexer and a Micor if they are capable of being tuned 
to the ham 440 band. Do any of the radios or duplexers have a frequency 
written on them? Also, are these items made for rack mount or for table 
mount?

 

John

AF4PD

 

[Repeater-Builder] Keying IC-706 Remote Base?

[Robin Midgett]

I'd like to hear from anyone who uses an IC-706 as a remote base on a 
repeater regarding keying the 706 via one of the 706 rear panel 
connectors..how did you do it? The one we have isn't working as 
easily as it appears it should...

Thank you,
Robin Midgett K4IDC 

[Repeater-Builder] Need GE Extenders

[Com/Rad Inc]

Greetings 

In need of a set of MASTR III card extenders
Pls state price and condition
Ed
Com/Rad Inc

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[Ron Wright]

Mike,

Does this problem occur on one channel or all???

If only on one then the TV's LO might be the problem.  TV IFs are 41-47 MHz 
with the video carrier at 42.25 MHz.  I think the LO would be 45.75 MHz above 
the channel freq.  Ch 3 is 61.25 MHz.  Since so much these days uses some type 
of converter box the TV might stay on Ch 3 or 4.

The Nelson ratings boxes that log what you watch uses this info to determine 
what channel you are watching.  The Germans in WWII also looked for the rcvr 
LOs to detect near by ships.

If on all channels then something other than the TV's LO and would be another 
oscillator/ossillation inside.

This might be an issue the TV manufacture knows about.  The way the 
interference specs were written long ago was a manufacture was responsible for 
interference, but only had to correct if a problem occurred.  Did not have to 
spend the money on all TVs made by installing filters, but had to correct if 
occurred.  Might give them a call.

73, ron, n9ee/r



>From: raritansailor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 06:04:14 CDT
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

>  
>I had tried the HT sniffer method, but it seemed to come from the TV 
>as a unit, and was not any better/worse at a given lead.
>
>I've got to get the SpecAn involved and find out what exactly this 
>thing is radiating, and try to relate it to some fundemental 
>operation of a TV, and go from there!
>
>Tnx
>
>Mike - N3EAQ
>
>--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
>wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>> 
>> Maybe you've tried this, but taking an HT on your input freq and 
>sniffing around the TV might give idea of where it is coming from.  
>Might be on power cord or antenna. 
>> 
>> If on power lead could put simple inline wrap cord around choke.  
>Would act as low pass filter.
>> 
>> On antenna lead might need a simple notch using a piece of 1/4 
>wavelength RG59 tuned to your input freq with T connector.  Simple to 
>make and sure it would blend in nicely.
>> 
>> 73, ron, n9ee/r
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> >From: raritansailor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Date: 2008/03/12 Wed AM 05:59:01 CDT
>> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting 
>interference FROM a TV?
>> 
>> >  
>> >Unfortunately the TV belongs to the folks who are allowing us to 
>use 
>> >the site for free. I really dont want to bend their noses :-)
>> >
>> >I've discussed replacing the TV, but they're not keen on that 
>answer.
>> >
>> >Yes, I am a bit gun shy WRT ripping into their set, I hope some 
>> >chokes on the leads buy me something!
>> >
>> >Thanks!
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry  
>> >wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Be VERY careful about doing the work on someone else's 
>property...  
>> >there are liability issues!  (If their TV catches on fire down the 
>> >road, guess who they'll come after)
>> >> 
>> >> Best bet is to offer suggestions such as Jeff posted, even offer 
>to 
>> >pay for the filters, but the bottom line is that it is 100% the 
>> >responsibility of the owner of the interfering device to eliminate 
>> >the interference or discontinue the use of the device, when 
>> >interference occurs to a licensed service.  Send 'em to the ARRL 
>> >website:  lots of good information for consumers there, and the 
>FCC 
>> >even directs people there!
>> >> 
>> >> You might even want to print out the FCC warning letter that 
>went 
>> >out to the owner of a TV set that was interfering with the EPIRB 
>> >satellite system recently.  That oughta scare 'em into doing the 
>> >right thing!
>> >> 
>> >> George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
>> >> 
>> >> -Original Message-
>> >> >From: Jeff DePolo 
>> >> >Sent: Mar 11, 2008 9:34 AM
>> >> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>> >> >Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater input getting 
>> >interference FROM a TV?
>> >> >
>> >> >> Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
>> >> >> 
>> >> >> Regards, N3EAQ
>> >> >
>> >> >The most direct solution is obvious: replace the TV.
>> >> >
>> >> >If that's not an option, try choking the coax/video and power 
>> >cords going
>> >> >into the TV with ferrites.  Pick a mix that provides optimum 
>> >attenuation at
>> >> >VHF.  You might also try disconnecting the coax or video/audio 
>> >cables from
>> >> >the TV and see if that changes the severity of the 
>interference; 
>> >might give
>> >> >you a clue.
>> >> >
>> >> >If that doesn't seem to improve it, it's probably radiating 
>> >through the TV's
>> >> >plastic chassis.  You can experiment with lining the inside of 
>the 
>> >cabinet
>> >> >with EMI/RFI shielding foil or spray-on shielding products, but 
>if 
>> >you have
>> >> >to go that far, and with the final results potentially still 
>not 
>> >being
>> >> >acceptable, the direct solution first proposed above is 
>probably 
>> >the best
>> >>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[Ron Wright]

Many GE Mastr II PAs will put out 150 watt.  However, where all this power is 
in freq is often not at the freq one wants...it is in spurs.  Looks good on 
watt meter, but not on spectrum anal.

Yes, the driver is used to control power output.  The pot that is used to 
adjust the power simple adjust the base voltage on a pass transistor 
controlling the voltage to the driver transistor.  If this pot is doing nothing 
I think it is bad.

The problem with the solder joint you repaired probably came about due to this 
high output power and was ran in this condition.

You do need to get the power output down to spec for spectral reasons and also 
for life of the PA.

73, ron, n9ee/r



>From: kd5inn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/13 Thu AM 06:25:04 CDT
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Master II  110w repeater

>  
>I recently aquired a master II repeater.  It turns out that it was only 
>putting out 3.5 watts.  After a look around here, I was able to get the 
>pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic 
>filter.  Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and 
>even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa 
>board, nothing happens.  I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't 
>seem to respond.  Any ideas??
>
>kd5inn
>
>


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[de W5DK]

Let us guess ,,,UHF? That's' a common problem. There's a link on RB
regarding this issue, under the GE pages. Some folks use braid for that
jumper.

 

On the wattage, I bet the meter you're using is not designed for UHF and
you're getting erroneous readings.

 

73

Don W5DK

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kd5inn
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 4:25 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

 

I recently aquired a master II repeater. It turns out that it was only 
putting out 3.5 watts. After a look around here, I was able to get the 
pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic 
filter. Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and 
even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa 
board, nothing happens. I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't 
seem to respond. Any ideas??

kd5inn

 

[Repeater-Builder] Master II 110w repeater

[kd5inn]

I recently aquired a master II repeater.  It turns out that it was only 
putting out 3.5 watts.  After a look around here, I was able to get the 
pa back in shape by correcting a broken solder near the hamonic 
filter.  Now, however, it shows to be putting out 140 to 150 watts, and 
even when I try to turn down the power on the 10w driver on the pa 
board, nothing happens.  I need to turn the power down, but it doesn't 
seem to respond.  Any ideas??

kd5inn

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[raritansailor]

I had tried the HT sniffer method, but it seemed to come from the TV 
as a unit, and was not any better/worse at a given lead.

I've got to get the SpecAn involved and find out what exactly this 
thing is radiating, and try to relate it to some fundemental 
operation of a TV, and go from there!

Tnx

Mike - N3EAQ

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Mike,
> 
> Maybe you've tried this, but taking an HT on your input freq and 
sniffing around the TV might give idea of where it is coming from.  
Might be on power cord or antenna. 
> 
> If on power lead could put simple inline wrap cord around choke.  
Would act as low pass filter.
> 
> On antenna lead might need a simple notch using a piece of 1/4 
wavelength RG59 tuned to your input freq with T connector.  Simple to 
make and sure it would blend in nicely.
> 
> 73, ron, n9ee/r
> 
> 
> 
> >From: raritansailor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Date: 2008/03/12 Wed AM 05:59:01 CDT
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting 
interference FROM a TV?
> 
> >  
> >Unfortunately the TV belongs to the folks who are allowing us to 
use 
> >the site for free. I really dont want to bend their noses :-)
> >
> >I've discussed replacing the TV, but they're not keen on that 
answer.
> >
> >Yes, I am a bit gun shy WRT ripping into their set, I hope some 
> >chokes on the leads buy me something!
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry  
> >wrote:
> >>
> >> Be VERY careful about doing the work on someone else's 
property...  
> >there are liability issues!  (If their TV catches on fire down the 
> >road, guess who they'll come after)
> >> 
> >> Best bet is to offer suggestions such as Jeff posted, even offer 
to 
> >pay for the filters, but the bottom line is that it is 100% the 
> >responsibility of the owner of the interfering device to eliminate 
> >the interference or discontinue the use of the device, when 
> >interference occurs to a licensed service.  Send 'em to the ARRL 
> >website:  lots of good information for consumers there, and the 
FCC 
> >even directs people there!
> >> 
> >> You might even want to print out the FCC warning letter that 
went 
> >out to the owner of a TV set that was interfering with the EPIRB 
> >satellite system recently.  That oughta scare 'em into doing the 
> >right thing!
> >> 
> >> George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
> >> 
> >> -Original Message-
> >> >From: Jeff DePolo 
> >> >Sent: Mar 11, 2008 9:34 AM
> >> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >> >Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater input getting 
> >interference FROM a TV?
> >> >
> >> >> Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
> >> >> 
> >> >> Regards, N3EAQ
> >> >
> >> >The most direct solution is obvious: replace the TV.
> >> >
> >> >If that's not an option, try choking the coax/video and power 
> >cords going
> >> >into the TV with ferrites.  Pick a mix that provides optimum 
> >attenuation at
> >> >VHF.  You might also try disconnecting the coax or video/audio 
> >cables from
> >> >the TV and see if that changes the severity of the 
interference; 
> >might give
> >> >you a clue.
> >> >
> >> >If that doesn't seem to improve it, it's probably radiating 
> >through the TV's
> >> >plastic chassis.  You can experiment with lining the inside of 
the 
> >cabinet
> >> >with EMI/RFI shielding foil or spray-on shielding products, but 
if 
> >you have
> >> >to go that far, and with the final results potentially still 
not 
> >being
> >> >acceptable, the direct solution first proposed above is 
probably 
> >the best
> >> >way to go...
> >> >
> >> >  --- Jeff WN3A
> >>
> >
> >
> 
> 
> Ron Wright, N9EE
> 727-376-6575
> MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
> Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
> No tone, all are welcome.
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[raritansailor]

Laryn,

It seems to not matter what channel is selected. It just has to be ON. 
I tried moving them to a different "uplink channel" between the dish 
box and the TV.. No Joy.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Laryn Lohman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Yeah I wouldn't have expected the bandpass filter to help with this.
> 
> Does it happen when the TV is tuned to a certain channel?  All TVs
> have a local oscillator.  But even if it turns out to be the local
> oscillator, it probably will not be easy to fix or even reduce.
> 
> Laryn K8TVZ

RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

[Peter Dakota Summerhawk]

I have seen the license for the UHF pair that they have but the hotel is
not interested in purchasing new equipment for the current system of VHF
radios was just bought last year. I got stuck with this project of
getting a repeater pair and programming the radios. If I would have
known the system was so jacked I would have turned down the contract.


Peter Dakota Summerhawk


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:56 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

Peter,

What type HTs do they have.  One does not see HTs with mWs except for
PRS, the small cheap radios in the 462 range.  So their HTs might have
power, 2-4 W, to cover the grounds.

As you proably know the UHF would get out of holes (hotel walls, etc)
better, but guess not an option.

Covering the 50 acres is no problem, covering from inside
rooms/hallways, etc can be.

I would try for a remoted base with roof antenna.  This will not improve
HT-HT coverage, would give someone better coverage which is probably
important...if the management can talk this often determines if the
system is working.  Few listen to the people who actually do the
work...way it is.

Another solution would be a repeater, low power, 10 W.  Mot has some
very good GR300 using couple of their Radius line rigs mounted in a box.
Since commerical would require 2 freq and if 5 MHz apart could use
mobile type duplexer.  All fits in a small 10w x 10d x 12h or so
including power supply.  The HTs would probably need to be reprogrammed
and the proper license obtained.

73, ron, n9ee/r




>From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/08 Sat AM 09:18:11 CST
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related

>  
>
>Thehotel that I am contracted for has just spent $50 million for a
renovation buthas already bought new VHF radios, believe mw when I
suggested that they go toUHF they balked at the idea of having to buy
new radios as part of therenovation was the new handhelds sold to them
by a different company in townthat assured them that the new radios
would cover the 50 some odd acres ofproperty that they own. So its up to
me now to get thethings in order to get a system that works for the
least money.
>Go figure.
> 
>Peter Dakota Summerhawk
> 
>-Original Message-
>From:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G Shaw
>Sent: Saturday, March 08, 20085:55 AM
>To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder]Need some help-Commercial related
> 
>You will find as I have that the FCC will not permit aVHF highband
repeater with a non-govt lic. such as business orindustrial.  IB etc.  
>You may be able to bootleg it but you will rcv a ceaseand desist from
the FCC when they become aware of it.  The Coordinatorssuch as NABER
will just reject it.  If you need a repeater you will haveto consider a
narror band UHF application.  If you decide to stickwith  high band then
simplex would be the route to go.  
>Glenn 
>-Original Message- 
>From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Milt 
>Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48AM 
>To:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Needsome help-Commercial related 
>The simple answer to your question is the pair thatgives the most
seperation. There are many more things to take intoconsideration.  This
is where a firm that is familure with the ins andouts of commercial
licensing is invaluable.  While the 151.835 may bemodified for a FB2 and
paired with 157.695, the coordinating agency may or maynot grant
coordination.  
>  
>Another thing to consider is thatwhile you can sell this customer a
cheap older repeater, the TK-720 is not approvedfor narrowband operation
IIRC.  Even if the current license allows +/-5Khz deviation a new grant
or modification will most likely require +/- 2.5 Khzdeviation.  Since
the deadline for conversion to narrowband is 2013 (5years away) one
should give serious consideration to how upgrading will takeplace.
>  
>- Original Message - 
>From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk  
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:37 AM 
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help-Commercial related
>I have to put in a repeater for a hotel.I have a Kenwood
TKR-720 repeater and the frequencies I have for the currentlicense are
as follows:
>151.835 
>152.435 
>157.695 
>157.575 
>My question is, what pair is going to be good for this
repeater? I haveto get a working system up and running but need to
figure ut what pair to useand then adjust the license before putting in
the system to have it work. Ihave a duplexer for the repeater as we

[Repeater-Builder] Re: ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater

[John]

Thanks for your suggestion. That is basically what I ended up doing. 
I programmed the unit as full duplex remote base, which basically 
bypasses the internal controller. I think the only thing I might add 
is a timer circuit for hang time. Right now the PTT drops as soon as 
the COR drops out.

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

John Liguori
Sparta, NJ


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Milt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> John,
> 
> General setup, I'm not directly familure with this unit.
> 
> The Icom needs to operate as a full duplex base radio instead of as 
a 
> repeater.  The internal controller will most likely not be used, 
unless it 
> can provide an ID function.  This might be done via programming or 
a switch 
> (Rpt/Local).
> 
> Bring the audio and COS from the Icom receiver to the Doug Hall 
voter.  Take 
> the  audio output of the voter and PTT and feed to the Icom 
transmitter.
> 
> Good Luck
> 
> Milton Engle
> N3LTQ
> M&D Technical Services, LLC
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "John" <99-1nwecs.org2@>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:27 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater
> 
> 
> >I have an Icom FR-3000 repeater in use. I would like to add a Doug 
Hall
> > signal to noise voter. I am not sure how to interface the voter 
into
> > the repeater. I have COR and audio coming from my other receivers 
into
> > the voter. My question is how to break out the receiver from the
> > repeater, send it out to the voter, and send the voted signal 
back into
> > the repeater activating the repeater controller & transmitter? 
Can this
> > be done using the internal repeater controller of the Icom? 
Should I
> > use an external controller? I have the Icom instruction manual. It
> > gives some pin-out information but doesn't seem to have what I am
> > looking for. Is there a detailed service manual for these? Does 
someone
> > have a copy they can send me? I tried contacting Icom but the 
systems
> > people were not available to offer any assistance.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > John Liguori
> > Sparta Twp NJ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>