Re: [Spits] Test Message
I can see your post Alan Sent from my iPad > On Mar 16, 2020, at 3:28 PM, TOD JONES wrote: > > > I haven't hardly seen anything lately. > > Tod Jones > Harrisonburg VA. > 67 Spit >> On March 16, 2020 at 7:27 AM Alex & Janet Thomson >> wrote: >> >> I haven’t seen much, if any, traffic recently. >> >> >> >> Alex Thomson >> >> ___ >> >> Spitfires@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/todjo...@comcast.net > > > ___ > > Spitfires@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/frog...@cox.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Steel hardtop
I am a longtime Sprite Midget enthusiast who has what I think is a Spitfire but possibly an MGA hardtop. The metal is rusted and may not be save able but it has the original Triplex rear glass and gasket. I have a few pictures, but they really don't show much detail I would like to confirm what it fits in order to find it a new home Thanks in advance Alan frog...@cox.net Sent from my iPad ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] sheetmetal and hardtop
Sorry to bomb this list again but I had posted some brand new sheetmetal parts available and a hardtop as well. Several folks contacted me off the list , directly. I replied but nothing back as yet. I still have both rear qtr panels and 2 outer rockers, 2 very straight door shells with all hardware and glass and a trunk lid. These parts came from a 1974 Sit project gone bad here in Rhode Island. Any interest please contact me off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am strictly a Sprite/Midget enthusiasts and can't use any of these parts. Thanks once again Alan ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] 1974 Spitfire sheetmetal and hardtop info
Many lister have asked where I am located. I realize sheetmetal and hardtops are tough on shipping issues so to answer a question asked earlier I am in Rhode Island about 10 mins North of Newport and 5 mins South of Fall River, Mass Alan ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] New Rover UK sheetmetal for a 1974 Spitfire
I am active on the spridget list but new to this one I recently picked up a 74 Spitfire with a bunch of brand new sheetmetal. Both rocker panels and rear qtr panels. Plus 2 nice doors stripped and a trunk lid . Also a steel hardtop with the glass removed and headliner If you are interested before I Ebay these parts please contact me directly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Alan ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Bolt Patternon Spitfire
Thanks for the info, Al - Original Message - From: "Gosling, Richard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Todd Bermudez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Alan Salvatore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 10:55 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] Bolt Patternon Spitfire It's a pattern that is not that common, unfortunately, so it is not easy to find wheels off other cars that fit. Apart from the obvious (Triumph Herald, Vitesse and GT6, and possibly also TR7 but I could have remembered wrong) I think some 60's Lotus cars had the same size (used some of the same suspension parts), and possibly the MGF and TF (the recent mid-engined car, not the 50's square-rigger TF). Larger Triumph cars (TR series, Stag, big saloons, not sure about small saloons i.e. Dolomite/Toledo) did not have the same size. Richard This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1352 - Release Date: 3/31/2008 10:13 AM ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Bolt Patternon Spitfire
Hi, Could someone give me the dimentions of the lug pattern of a spitfire. Is it close to 4 x 4 1/2 of the tr6? thanks Al - Original Message - From: "Nick Moseley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 11:28 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] 78 throttle cable replacement > The cable runs through a metal sort of bushing in the firewall shelf. The > bushing is almost upside-down bell shaped. I seem to recall that prying > from > the top is not a good idea, and that pushing the wire all the way into the > engine compartment, then thumping it up and out with the head of a hammer > will work. > > Nick Moseley (no relation to Max, note the extra "e") > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Craig > Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:07 PM > To: Spitfires@autox.team.net > Subject: [Spits] 78 throttle cable replacement > > Hello and help! > So my throttle cable breaks on the way to work... tow it home, order new > one get new one in mail... can't get the old one out of the > firewall > :-) It will spin but won't pull out even though there doesn't appear to > be > anything holding it in like a barb or something that needs to be pinched. > The > new cable housing doesn't seem to have any retention mechanism either. Do > I > need better glasses? > > Stumped in Louisville, > Craig Holmes > 78 Spitfire > Spitfires@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive > ___ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1349 - Release Date: 3/29/2008 > 5:02 PM ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Alan Mceachran is out of the office.
I will be out of the office starting 07/02/2007 and will not return until 07/09/2007. ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
RE: [Spit] Noise in frount end
--- Grant Buss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > For the past while I have been hearing a "creaking" > > noise when I am turning > > and going over a rise in the road at low speed. I > > thought maybe dry molly > > bushings, but could it be time to change my > > Trunnions ? I had a stub axle break just after hearing similar noises (turning at low speed). No idea how to check that though... _ Win tickets to the sold out Live Earth concert! http://liveearth.uk.msn.com Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Texas spitfire in need of new home
Hello everyone, Years ago I purchased a spit in much need of help. The PO wrecked the car and I got it cheap. I started the restoration process and then had a slight career change and it has sat for the past 5 years in my garage waiting for me to finish. Unfortunately my situation has changed yet again and I have to move. In the end I will not have a place to continue my work on the car. All of the damage was on the passenger side. I have removed almost all of the damaged areas (which is most of the side of the car and floor board) and have acquired most of the panels to replace them. Here is the deal. I would prefer the car go to someone that will either finish the job or at least salvage as much as they can to keep another car on the road. If you have the ability to haul this car, then it and all the panels are yours. The car is in Arlington Texas. That is in North Texas between Dallas and Ft Worth. You can email me off the list if you are interested. As for the engine and tranny. It is a 1977 1500 with overdrive. When I first got the car it ran and drove. But it has been a few years since I have tried starting it and don't have time to go thru the proper procedures to test it now. I hope someone here can use this. Also, my time table is very short. So, let me know ASAP if you are interested. Thanks, Alan Stiebing '77 Spitfire (for the moment) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Texas spitfire in need of new home
Hello everyone, Years ago I purchased a spit in much need of help. The PO wrecked the car and I got it cheap. I started the restoration process and then had a slight career change and it has sat for the past 5 years in my garage waiting for me to finish. Unfortunately my situation has changed yet again and I have to move. In the end I will not have a place to continue my work on the car. All of the damage was on the passenger side. I have removed almost all of the damaged areas (which is most of the right side of the car and floor board) and I have acquired most of the panels to replace them. Here is the deal. I would prefer the car go to someone that will either finish the job or at least salvage as much as they can to keep another car on the road. If you have the ability to haul this car, then it and all the panels are yours. The car is in Arlington Texas. That is in North Texas between Dallas and Ft Worth. You can email me off the list if you are interested. As for the engine and tranny. It is a 1977 1500 with overdrive. When I first got the car it ran and drove. But it has been a few years since I have tried starting it and dont have time to go thru the proper procedures to test it now. I hope someone here can use this. Also, my time table is very short. So, let me know ASAP if you are interested. Thanks, Alan Stiebing 77 Spitfire (for the moment) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Sagging suspension and other issues
Joe, I apologise for any bashing, it was late and i was a little terse. The reason I was bringing this up is because I have experienced the wheel tuck and I really do believe, as you do, that the fixed spring is dangerous. In the UK it is a simple and cheap fix to move to swing spring and a stiffer front roll bar, both readily available new or secondhand and can be fitted even by an amateur in a couple of hours. It really is something that is easy and simple to do and I would recommend everyone to do it. A camber compensator may be better at the extremes - I really don't know. I do have a friend who was doing a phd on F1 suspension and he always talked about low unsprung weight being a key part of good suspension, but the real key is that the fixed spring is dangerous and if you have it something should be done. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: sagging rear/advice
As Joe sells camber compensators and tends to only comment on rear suspension issues I would ignore joe's advice. I would tend to think of his use of the group as a form of advertising. Spring sag can be a problem, personally in a very intested way I found that the best result on my mk III was probably with fixed spring and big front anti roll bar. If joe ever commented on anything that wasn't cured by a camber compensator I would feel happier with his advice. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Timing problem.
Ok, this is actually on a friends Midget - same 1500cc engine as my Spitfire. We have set the timing before ( last year) when tuning and all was well then. He has had to do a rebuild and for some reason the car now needs to be set about 40 degrees advance at idle. range is 40 - 80 degrees advance through the engine range. So we know the mechanical and vacuum advance is fine. It actually runs smooth and idles OK, but I have never seen this before. We did a mechanical check using the valve positions and looking in the cylinder for the piston for TDC and sure enough it pops up right at the zero timing mark, so that is all OK. Everything was put back together as per the book ( i.e aligning the cam and crank marks etc.) He has hit the midget list but nobody has seen this. Since it's the same engine and is more a generic type problem I thought I would see if anyone on this list has an idea or seen this before. Thanks, Alan Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Interesting test results
/var/spool/mqueue/: No such directory Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: ignition problem
/var/spool/mqueue/: No such directory *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Spitfire? Lucas Distributor identification -
*** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
LeMans Bonnet Vents
Moring everyone,
I'm looking for the dimension of the Spitfire LeMans bonnet vents.
The diagram I found on-line has them, but I'm not as young as I used to be and
I cannot make them out. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Alan
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
*** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try
*** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
*** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
*** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
*** Edit your replies!
Re: Colortune video
Cool, very nice. If you could mount the camera on a tripod and then do the slow and fast accelerations with the video of the colour changes it would be perfect and great for those that can't get it to work. What did you use to make the video? The picture was really clear and the sound was pretty good.. Alan On Tue, 31 May 2005 21:38 , Spitfire 1500 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >http://home.comcast.net/~s1500/colortune.avi > >Here's me messing around with the Colortune. To those who have >experienced Colortune before, does this look right? > >Today's drive to and from work was wonderful. It wasn't guzzling gas >like 2 years ago, no overheating(in fact, it's under average).. The only >thing were some rattles from my convertible top handles. > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Heat shields, manuals, starters & luggage rack slats
I have spliced down MGB insulator blocks between the manifold and the carbs. Is is a UK HS4 set up on my US Spit . Also has a UK heat shield installed with a license plate extension to keep the heat from the header away. The HS4 blocks of the MGB are a perfect fit (when thinned down). Not sure if they would work with HS2. Alan Bill Gingerich wrote: Greetings, fellow listers, I have several questions tonight, so without further delay... To those of you who have made a Spitfire carb heat shield from an air bake cookie sheet, did you put any insulation between the 2 sheets of aluminum? For you GT6 experts, should a '72 MkIII have some type of carb heat shield similar to the Spitfire? I'm also looking for both the Haynes & Bentley manuals for my son to use with his afore mentioned GT6. If you have one or both that you'd like to unload, please contact me off list. The starter on Lazarus, the '74 Spitfire spins very well, but won't always engage the flywheel. Sometimes a good smack with a soft face hammer will make it work for a while. Can the drive be rebuilt, or is it time to buy a new starter? Does anyone have any decent slats for the "factory" 6 slat stainless (?) luggage rack? Someone decided to use mine as a push handle and snapped all of them off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks to all for your assistance. BillG #133 Lake Crystal, MN '74 Spitfire "Lazarus" '71 GT6 "Dorian 'Primer' Grey" '71/76 GT6C project "Gypsy" '72/75 GT6C project "Hell, it was free!" '66 GT6 "Belgian Baby" '71 Spitfire "Welding Practice" *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Gunson Colortune?
Nothing special needed for 1500 engine or most other LBCs. I did se it listed at Harbour Freight of all places. Not sure of price. NFI. Can't remember where I bought my US one, but I did a search on the internet. Alan On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 19:56 , Spitfire 1500 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >Tried ordering a gunson colortune from spitbits, but they were out. >Any other online place sells them for a good deal? ALso, should I be >asking for a specific spark plug size for a 1500 engine? > > >Yeah, winter finally went away in MN. Now it's time to get parts. > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Failing emissions
Thanks for the ideas folks. I know I could reduce the emissions with other fuels. But she should not be in this region in normal running. Anyway I went to check valve clearances and compression. Found that couple of low clearance values ( yes I did do this cold) and that the push rod was sticky to turn ( well grunchy may be a better term) when the valve was closed. Seems there's some wear on the ends of the rod. (could be more than one). So what's the likely hood of cam and/or valve damage. Plan to pull and check tappets tonight (need that little magnet tool, my magnet is too big) for wear. Also will reset valve clearances and run to check compression when warm. Engine runs fine otherwise. Alan *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Failing emissions
Doug this is the kind of thing I am looking for. Of course it's all original so no way has it been incorrect assembly. and the car has passed emissions before without major problems. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I would expect a compression test to reveal any valve or ring problems. > >I guess there could be a valve timing problem, but I cannot imagine >how that would "just happen", without something being >assembled incorrectly. > >Last year I was adjusting my valves and I noticed that I had a broken outer >valve spring. The amazing thing was that I had been driving around >like that for who knows how long, and I hadn't noticed any difference at all >in how the engine ran. I have no idea what effect it might have had >on the emissions, but it couldn't have been doing any good... > >You might want to remove the rocker arm and press down (hard) on each valve >to try to find any stickiness or weak springs. > >Doug Braun >'72 Spit > > >At 07:29 AM 3/16/2005 -0700, you wrote: > > >>The electrics have been checked. Timing is correct, no misfires etc. new plug, fresh engine oil. even changed twin SU back to single Stromberg and it's slightly worse. Does not have catalytic converter and air pump is working OK. No vacuum leaks - checked for that. carbon canister was even rebuilt. input line from carbon canister is plugged anyways. CO is not that low, so leaning out more will not help. It's not at the point for the balancing act. HC at high speed are not as bad but still high. I have had the car to THE expert in the area who could find nothing wrong and is himself mystified. Normally I can do it all and diagnose the problem. Folks come to me to help them tune their cars. Which is why I suspect something mechanical. But she runs smooth which seems to contradict the valves. But I never have had the head off the car. Or it could be bad rings? Will check that valve clearances and compression are OK tonight. Any other easy way to check the valves short of pulling the head. >> >>Alan *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Failing emissions
The electrics have been checked. Timing is correct, no misfires etc. new plug, fresh engine oil. even changed twin SU back to single Stromberg and it's slightly worse. Does not have catalytic converter and air pump is working OK. No vacuum leaks - checked for that. carbon canister was even rebuilt. input line from carbon canister is plugged anyways. CO is not that low, so leaning out more will not help. It's not at the point for the balancing act. HC at high speed are not as bad but still high. I have had the car to THE expert in the area who could find nothing wrong and is himself mystified. Normally I can do it all and diagnose the problem. Folks come to me to help them tune their cars. Which is why I suspect something mechanical. But she runs smooth which seems to contradict the valves. But I never have had the head off the car. Or it could be bad rings? Will check that valve clearances and compression are OK tonight. Any other easy way to check the valves short of pulling the head. Alan *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Failing emissions
Anyone ever experience a problem with sticking values or bad adjustment failing emissions at idle with high hydrocarbons. And ways to check to specifically see if this is the cause. It's not the ignition, carb, leaks etc. etc. Been through all that and swapped over parts etc. Alan ( '76 Spitfire 1500) *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Suggestions for front spring compression
I used my shop press. I had the same problem with the space between the coils. Alan Paul Grafelman wrote: List, I'm trying to install my new firmer front springs onto Spax adjustable shocks. The local autoparts store has a compressor that they loan out, but the 'fingers' don't fit between the coils, even when it's uncompressed. I'm thinking that a machine shop will be bale to help, but does anyone know where to get a compressor that will work? Paul Grafelman *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
ABFM Portland
Just wondering if anyone is heading that way this weekend for the show. Am starting the journey tonight Alan *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: wiring diagram 75 solenoid
Try: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/75diagram.jpg Alan richard stieg wrote: anyone have a detail diagram (photo?) of a starter solenoid wiring diagram? the DPO used any color wire he had laying around to bodge the thing together. having unwrapped the wires back to the source colours, I need to see the connection/color layout on my 75 '1500. thanks again for all the assistance over the years. Richard Stieg 75 spit *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Spring Compressor
Sounds exactly like the drive resistor for a Lucas OPUS system. Alan On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 09:49 , 'Kirk Crawford' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >> As for things >> to be aware of post '76 is the OPUS electronic ignition. If and when >> you start having odd ignition problems, my experience is to start here. >> You can either change it back to points, or replace it with something >> like the Petronix. > >Hmm... This car definitely has point ignition system. It all looks fresh. >The DPO evidently replaced the points, rotor, cap, wires, etc. Prior to the >sale. > >However, I did find what looks to me like a power resistor attached to the >bracket on the back of the alternator. The two connectors on the resistor >are not connected to anything. Could this be evidence that the ignition has >been changed? > >-Kirk *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Location of Turn Signal Flasher Unit
If this is down next to the choke (where mine is on a '76) then that's it. Should be a metal bracket that the unit simply pushes into. Two leads sounds correct (light-green/slate & light-green/brown at least that's the wiring colours on the later cars according to the diagrams). Alan On Thu, 5 Aug 2004 11:43 , [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: >I'm trying to diagnose why my turning signals aren't working and I'm trying >to find >the turning signal flasher unit. I have a LH drive 1972 Spit Mark IV. >It looks like when I pull back the LH fascia (speedo/tach side) that the >unit >is to the right of the tach (looking at it) and down and is hooked to the >metal portion >of the dash frame. It has two leads going into it. Is this the flasher >unit? > >Mark > >'72 Spitfire Mark IV - "Murdock" *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Stromberg dashpot oil
That's what I used in my Stromberg and still do in my twin SU and always used in the UK cars I had. In fact that's what's listed in the manuals as the standard, although many alternatives are used - atf, 3-in-1, 5W30 etc etc. The viscosity of the oil affects the speed at which the damper moves and thus the acceleration. There's been lots of threads on thsi in teh past that I am sure you can find in teh archives. Alan On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 09:06 , 'Dave Gebhard' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >What does it do? >What best?? >5w20 won't work, will it? >Dave Gebhard >FK31597U > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: spitfire twins
Does happen here. When I moved one guy was in the middle of restoring his to the same color. When I was at his house all his neighours thought his car was finished and kept giving thumbs up.. Easy to spot the differences when you know, as mine has the '76 wheels and luggage rack plus minor differences as his is a 78 body . But it's cool when they are together. Alan '76 Spitfire '98 XK8 (new daily driver/toy) >From: "Gosling, Richard B" [EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 5:42 AM >Subject: RE: spitfire twins > > >> I knew Daffy's twin well - her name is Carly. Both Inca Yellow 1500s, >Daffy >> a '78, Carly (I think) a '79 - although Daffy had O/D and Carly does not, >> and Carly was improved to a much tidier standard than Daffy ever was! I >met >> her owner via this list, they live in Bedford which is around 15 minutes >> from where I used to live near Cambridge. Mike would bring Carly over to >my >> house, and we'd drive on together to TRGB in convoy - we probably got a >few >> funny looks as two identical Spits driving along together, but I was >always >> enjoying myself too much to notice what other people were looking at! >> >> Then I moved North to Aberdeen, and Carly and Daffy never got to go out >> again any more... >> >> Richard Gosling > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Alternator Test
The advice was.. Simple: With a reasonably accurate voltmeter (almost any digital one), measure the output voltage with the engine running. You should get at least 13.5 volts. For the most definitive answer, check the voltage between the two actual battery terminals (NOT the clamps!). Also check with the lights on and off, and at idle and higher RPMs. You can also use the voltmeter to check for excessive voltage drops in the wiring and grounding (e.g. check the voltage drop between the negative battery terminal and the car's body. More than 0.2 or so is fishy.) No need to disconnect anything to do this these tests. Note that a old, almost worn-out battery can mimic the symptoms of a bad alternator: The car normally starts OK, but if you leave the lights on for 10 minutes, it will no longer start. Doug Braun '72 Spit I didn't have enough Amps to crank the starter so I boosted the car. I took the voltage measurement on the battery posts and got 12.0A at idle. Increasing the engine revs had no effect on voltage at the terminals. Turning on the headlights dropped the voltage immediately to 11.3A. It continued to drop to 8.5A before I switched the lights off. Given your advice and my results I'm thinking that the alternator is kaput. Is there a domestic replacement alternator that I can try that is a simple bolt on, or should I just source the Lucas? Alan 78 Spitfire Mississauga, Ontario *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Alternator Testing
My 78 Spitfire with the Lucas alternator has totally failed to keep my battery charged. I had a "no start" fail the other dya with no lights left on from the previous ride. She has never had any such issues in the past 4 years that I have owned her. Now, when boosted and running, the engine ticks over just fine, but turn signals, headlights, virtually all electricals are literally dim. I suspect the alternator as my problem. My Haynes says I can do a rough check on it by connecting an Ampmeter in series between the brown wire from the alternator and the starter. I'm no electrical whiz, but I do have a nice Fluke Digital Multimeter that I'm sure I could fry if I fought the need for advice. Assume that I have never seen either an alternator or a multimeter before. Does anyone have a procedure for dummies I could follow? Alan 78 Spitfire 1500 Mississauga, Ontario *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Compression Ratios
Flat top pistons and emissions are the answers I believe. I have a 76 myself. On Wed, 26 May 2004 14:11 , [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: >Does anyone know why the '76 Spitfire 1500 (fed.) had a comp. ratio of 9.00:1 and all of the others from '73-80 were 7.50:1? How'd they accomplish that and why go back? > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
running on three cylinders
I have just replaced the cylinder head in my mk3 with a new one. However, when i got it running again it seems to be running on 3 cylinders with the number one cylinder not doing much - when I pull the spark plug the engine doesnt die whereas it does with all the others. I have tested compression (same as it was before replacement of cylinder head) replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Engine is smoky as anything but I guess that that should be expected with 1 cylinder down? Any ideas what i should do next as a diagnostic procedure/solution? thanks a lot Al *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Tuning carbs question...
David, the inside of the unisyn turns to change the flow. So on the front carb open the center of the unisyn up so that the reading is not all the way to the top. Then with the linkage undone, adjust the idle of the back carb so that it's at the same place. Recheck back and forward a couple of times till the flow is the same and then lock the linkage trying not to move the setting. Make sure the throttle is against the linkage and or same gap on both carbs. Recheck after locking, as often tightening the linkage knocks it out. Then you can set the mixture. Don't screw the centre in too far to get a reading as then you constrict the flow to much. Alan On Tue, 18 May 2004 12:33 , 'David Mayer' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >I started my '68 Spit Mk3 with dual Su's up ther other day and tried tuning >them. However, nothing seems to be working! I have the tool that you place >over the intake and the little ball inside goes up. When i placed it over the >front carb, the ball goes all the way to the top. When the toll is over the >rear carb, the little ball stays down at the bottom. > >What am i NOT doing that would get these to sync up? The engine still runs >decent but not as smooth as it could be. Any suggestions? > >Thanks, > David > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Defroster hose
Tim, I usually take in the old one and match it up to something with the right shape and sizes and usually cut it down. Never had them try to order one. You could look on their sites on-line to see if they list. I would measure the sizes and go see what they have. Usually I end up at the back of the store with them going through a bunch to see what will work. When I changed to twin SU I had to do this as the hose is different and does not show up in any US catalog anyway and had to match the size and shape. Alan On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:05 , Tim Schuh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >The PO of my 76 Spit 1500 used generic heater hose on the valve for the >defroster. It doesn't like to make the 90 degree bend and has basically >collapsed. I can't find the part on spitbits.com and I don't yet have >any of the catalogs I've ordered. Is this a hose I can source from a >generic autoparts store such as O'Reillys, PepBoys, AutoZone, etc? > >-- >Tim Schuh >Ugly Networks > > >Your messages not reaching the list? >Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Spitfire Dash lights
Hmm. my buzzer on my 76 has a multi-pin connector and its just behind the glove compartment. The only "normal" unconnected ones are radio ( center) and map light ( right). The only thing I can think of on the left is a PO disconnected an instrument wire and or perhaps other dash lighting wire. Alan Jim Muller wrote: >On 10 Apr 2004 at 19:48, Andrew Beck wrote: > > > >>1979 Triumph Spitfire >>I have this red wire hanging out from the left hand side of the dash >> >> > >I haven't dug into my wiring for a lng time but if memory serves >right, that is probably part of the wiring for the buzzer that was >attached behind the dash on the far left. Said buzzer was there to >notify you if you (a) sat in a seat without using the seatbelt, (b) >left the key in the ignition, (c) left a door ajar, or (d) all of the >above. (Well, in a modern car it could be any combination of those. >And I've never seen a door that was a jar even though my Caravan >makes that ridiculous statement every so often.) I bet you can find >some unused wires running up under the various seats too. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Coolant Expansion bottle
There are always places in the system where air gets trapped until the engine is run so that's why the level drops. Of course needs to get to temp up to open the thermostat to the radiator of course. Then the pressure has to open the radiator pressure cap. On my Ford Contour I once watched this happen and it sucked it all in in a big whoosh. I was having a water pump and heating problem at the time. Normally on the Spitfire I simply run it a bit and top up and repeat a couple of times when I have drained the system. Make sure it's cold when you top it up. Normally I don't even let it run more than a few seconds as that's enough to get the water moved around the system and the air to the top of the radiator and check that level and that the bottle is always half full. Alan Andrew Beck wrote: 1979 Triumph Spitfire Just finished installing a new water pump and getting everything back together. My Haynes manual says to full the radiator up to the top, also fill the expansion bottle up to the top. Then let the car run at about 1000rpm. Then if the expansion bottle drops below half, refill This doesn't make sense. Why would I want the expansion bottle to be full? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Coolant expansion bottle
Sounds like one is for the carbon canister of the emissions system perhaps? Alan Andrew Beck wrote: It seems that I have two brackets in place for coolant expansion bottlesOne is immediately in front of the radiator on the passenger side (that is only a bracket, no bottle in it). The second one (which is in use) is on the drivers side and is closer to the front of the car -- say 6"-8" ahead of the radiator. Any reason there are two brackets? Can I get rid of one? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Viscous coupling / Fan clutch removal
You need to drive the shaft out with a drift ( read small socket) I did mine a few years back and it took quite a force as I hammered it out ( and back on the new one. Now I have a small shop press that would do a nicer job. Alan Andrew Beck wrote: Ok, so I am in the midst of replacing the water pump (my brake parts haven't arrived yet). So the Haynes manual tells me: "Press off the viscous coupling and remove the tolerance ring." Like hell! I have not been able to get that thing to budge off the water pump shaft at all. Any suggestions *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: SU float bowl overflows
I have a similar problem with my twin HS4. The fuel bubbles up through the carbs when I stop and the heat soaks in. I have obtained a couple of MGB insulating blocks that I am working right now to fit to hopefully stop the probem. Won't know until the weekend though how successful this has been. Hopefully the insualtion and the extra distance will help. Teh manifold is already wrapped and I have heat shilding and air ducting, but nothing stops the direct transfer through the manifold as it's fine running ( i.e moving with air flow) Alan. On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 06:31 , 'Nolan Penney' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >I had a lot of trouble with my SU's overflowing from the vents. Several things contributed to the problem. > >First was fuel pressure. The replacement pump I had provided too much fuel pressure. An inline regulator greatly helped this problem. > >Second was my float bushings. Until I got a correct oem SU set, I had quite a bit of vibration of the bowl. It wasn't apparent until I replaced the bushings with the correct ones. The difference was night and day. > >Third was heat from the manifold. This one still isn't as licked as I'd like it to be, as sitting in heavy traffic on a hot day still can get my fuel bowls percolating. At the least, they fume strongly under these conditions. Driving along things are fine. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: removing trans...
Dave, a couple of 4 in bolts with the head cut off and a slot cut in the end, screwed in to replace the outer two bolts that screw into the block at the top, make for guides for sliding off and on, plus holds some of the weight. Aligns it all when you put it back. The engine usually needs a jack (with wood block to protect) under the oil pan. I use the scissors one here. That leaves my hydraulic one free to sit under the tranny. Jack it up so that it just touches and you can use it to slide the tranny back and forward. Yes two people help especially as you really can't lift easily under the dash (where bolts and trolley jack help). but you can do it on your own as I have done. Alan David Mayer wrote: Hello all, Now that the weather has cleared, i have pulled the spit into the garage to work on the transmission. I am replacing the clutch with a Borg & Beck unit. So tonight i loosened everything up so that it will be easier to take off later. I am removing the Transmission from inside the car. Now here is my question, do i need to prop something under the back end of the engine when i remove the trans.? So that the engine does not twist on the mounts? Does anyone have any secrets to doing this procedure of taking the trans out from inside the car? I am assuming it will be easier with two people? Thank you in advance, Dave '68 Spit...in bits again. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Thanks! and Air Rail bolt question
I went to my local nuts and bolts specialist and they had them, cost 25c or so a piece. Alan Chris King wrote: They're 7/16-20 UNF thread. You can use allen-socket set screw as plugs. See McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com <http://www.mcmaster.com/> . -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/ <-Original Message-> From: Jambone Sent: 2/3/2004 2:02:27 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thanks! and Air Rail bolt question If I want to remove my air rail and plug the holes, what size/pitch bolt or screw should I use? I'd like to be able to add/remove the air rail as situations permit. Seems like I've read that these holes are British Standard Fine threads or British Standard Pipe threads, but I can't find the specifications anywhere online or with my local British parts suppliers. Best Regards, Brian Hill '76 Spitfire 1500 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: tag found in Spit 1500
Walt, it sounds like it's probably from the soft top, soft top cover or tonneau. They all were made of the same material with that logo on it. If you have an original part you will see the logo on the inside of the material. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While looking the Spitfire 1500 yesterday, one of the interesting things I found was a paper tag with the following: round circle with a triangle inside with "FR" inside the triangle below reads: product from Gallow & Maddox Bros LTD Cambro Works School Lane Exhall COVENTRY Date: 14-9-78 (in ink) Batch No.: 697 (in ink) Part No.: Signature: L (looks like) what part is this from? Walt *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: Installation of Carpet set
Which is also the same stuff sold in the home improvement stores as a kit for insulating hot water heaters and comes with a roll of duct tape as well. Often for a much lower cost than the auto parts places. Alan Craig Smith wrote: One thing I did was purchase a matting to go under the carpet. I don't know what they call it but it is made out of scrap cloth pressed and then an aluminum foil material is attached to one side. This stuff is a bear to cut but it adds a large amount of sound proofing as well as heat barrier. It's cheap and I bought mine at a Pep Boys in the US, I would imagine that a bunch of stores sell the stuff. I did not glue it down, It kind of forms to the shapes, the firewall and sides are glued. The carpet is just laid on top of the aluminum. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: GT6 Clock
I have made my own in the past. Most of those cheap wall clocks have a simple paper picture glued on the face. Simply open the clock and replace the picture. You can pick up those clocks at the $1 stores or maybe a garage sale. Ok so you can't make the mugs etc. You can get them done at the mall usually. Alan Mike Welch wrote: Easiest place to make your own clocks is http://www.cafepress.com. Set up a free shop there, submit pictures of your own GT6 (Spitfires work just as well, probably better), then make your own clocks, mugs, tshirts, hats, ad nauseum. Mike Welch [EMAIL PROTECTED] *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: urgent help needed on ignition switch
Chris, my friend did this on his 74 TR6. It has the same internal parts as my 76 Spitfire. So I know it can be done on the non-column mounted switches. Not sure about the later column mounted ones. He just swapped the back drum shaped part with the wires attached, so the keyed part was the same. Not sure exactly how, but it was pretty quick to do. Alan Chris DeStaffany wrote: I am on the road,one thousand miles from home and my ignition switch is on the fritz. Only works part time if I wiggle it a lot. Had to hot wire the car to get it going. I have ordered a new ignition switch from BPNW that should be here tomorrow. Here's the question. Can I just change the internals and how? If no, how do pull out the whole switch? Any replys would be appreciated as I'm in a real pickle this time. Chris DeStaffany from Friday Harbor Wa currently at friends at Ridgecrest Ca __ *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Re: 1973 Ad with plane
Many thanks to those who responded and thanks for also sending direct and not bombing the list. I now have a couple to choose from. Much more than I expected. What a great list.. Alan Alan Lemen wrote: Folks, our local club is putting in an event with a local air museum. Since the event is coinciding ( as near as we can) with Battle of Britain Day, does anyone have a 1973 ad than they could scan and send me a copy so I can display next to the car. TIA Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
1973 Ad with plane
Folks, our local club is putting in an event with a local air museum. Since the event is coinciding ( as near as we can) with Battle of Britain Day, does anyone have a 1973 ad than they could scan and send me a copy so I can display next to the car. TIA Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
spitfire running on
I have a friend with a spitfire which runs after the ignition has been turned off. It has a new switch. Only way to stop it is to remove the wire to the coil. It runs like normal not just brief run on. Any ideas before I head over and try to diagnose it. They know a lot about LBCs but this one has them stumped and they asked me as I know a lot about electrics. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Ported Head
I was just tearing down a spare 1147 I had picked up several months ago, and found some very interesting things. The head had been ported, oversized valves installed with seals. (1300 & non-triumph valves) Head has also been shaved. There is the porters name, and either the flow or chamber volume scribed on the head. "H. Lyness 69 33cc." Any history or information on this porter would interesting to know. He sure did a nice job on the head. Alan Morris 64 Mk1 /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Cam Timing
I'm glad to see that there is some activity this weekend. I'm up to my elbows in timing a new cam, spec sheet calls for 112, but out of the 8 possible positions using a stock gear the closest I can get is 110, or 117. This is a fast road cam being used in an 1147. Any suggestions? Is 2 degrees retarted worse than 5 degrees advanced in this application? Thanks Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: trouble shooting "quiz" H-6 carbs
Fred, I had a couple of problems with my HS4 that I put on my Spitfire in similar manner. 1. return spring was not strong enough so I had to add additional one to pull the linkage back to idle as it would be fine for small throttle opening but not large ones. 2. Even with that when on a long trip last year and it got really hot and dusty the mechanism kept sticking. If I blipped the throttle fast sometime it would come back but most of the time it would not. Frustrating when you are stuck in slow moving traffic with 100 F heat. That evening I tried to clean up the linkage and oil it. Worked fine and from then on I clean it up and oil it frequently. Could even be a slight misalignment causing the stickiness. Alan Fred Thomas wrote: >For the past 3 months after driving for any length of time or distance when I >shut off the ignition and then attempt to restart the throttle linkage seems >to be stuck or held open at a very high RPM, sometimes almost full open, I >have to turn the ignition off very quickly or thrown a rod, raise the hood and >push the linkage closed, I have replaced "all" of the linkage, readjusted all >of the throttle stops, reset the timing, replaced the clamps on the throttle >shafts and all to no avail, so the "quiz" is what is causing this problem on a >T/R 3 with H-6 carbs ?? Randall stay out of this. I'll buy the winner his >favorite beverage, this is very simple and easy to be overlooked, but a good >tip for others if you ever run into this problem. "FT" /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: oil filter help needed
Anne, there is one that I used to get from NAPA that fits, but I since changed adapters as it was not as easy to get as the 1374. I went and bought an adapter at the local hardware store - a plumbing fixture. You could take the existing adapter into NAPA and and ask them for one that fits. I believe the one I got had a metric thread but actually fitted perfectly - no damage to the threads. Alan Anne Garren wrote: >hi all, > >went to change the oil in my '73 spit (my first time doing it). i had >checked the archives and bought a NAPA Gold 1374 filter. lo and behold, the >opening is too big for the screw-in adapter on my car. aarrgghh! are there >any off-the-shelf oil filters that will work? or do i have to order an >adapter for the bigger openings of today's filters? > >thanks, >anne /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: gear box lube
Fred, 5 gal is a bit much for me although I am sure we could do a split like you. The StaLube comes in 1 gal. Never seen the Castrol on anyone's shelves even in the 5 gal size. Alan Fred Thomas wrote: > The only GL-4 that I have found reasonably easily available is the StaLube >brand available from NAPA. I would have thought any NAPA would be able to get >it for you. > It does specifically say it will not affect the brass etc. > > Alan > === > > Castrol makes GL4 but only in 5 gal containers, a neighbor and I split a >bucket so our problem is solved. "FT" /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: gear box lube
The only GL-4 that I have found reasonably easily available is the StaLube brand available from NAPA. I would have thought any NAPA would be able to get it for you. It does specifically say it will not affect the brass etc. Alan Fred Thomas wrote: >>Spitfire lovers: >>Is gear lube labeled...GL-3,GL-4,GL-5 compatible with a spit >>gearbox. I couldn't find anything else in my little town and I think my >>gearbox is thirsty!! >>Thanks >>Dave Gebhard >> >> >=As already >posted the answer is yes, but, only GL 4 is recommended as GL 5 has >additives that effect brass syncros, this according to TRF. "FT" /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: older style allison/crane XR700 wiring question
Aaron, some pics of my car in Wilsonville with the old Allison unit at http://myweb.cableone.net/ralemen/spitfire/spitfire.html Alan Aaron Johnson wrote: >Quick wiring question for anyone using the older style (black box) >crane/allison XR700. By older style I mean the one with the transitor on >the outside. > >I have two of these that work perfectly, never had a problem, don't expect a >problem, but have spares just in case. Problem is, i just cut out my old >wiring and I drew up a wiring diagram which stated which wires went to the >coil and which was the black box ground, which I have lost. > >I'm wondering if anyone out there still has one of these lying around or an >instruction manual for one. The wire colours are Puple, Black and Red. > >I've looked at the crane website and found instructions for the new xr700's >but they've changed wire colours. My assumption is black to coil -, red is >+12v in, and the puple is the common ground, at least that's how I remember >writing it down > >Aaron >#38 F-Prod Spit Mk IV Oregon Region /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Timing a modified '72 1300
I have a federal Spec '76. Supposed to be 2 ATDC but with twin HS4 and header etc. I run at the 10 BTDC except when trying to pass emissions. Then I set it closer to 0. You are supposed to set it as far as you can BTDC without pinging. I know when mine drifted a bit further than 10 BTDC I got some pinging under heavy loads. Alan Richard Gosling wrote: >Ken, > >Can't say for certain about a 1300, but for a UK 1500 engine with twin SUs >and no emissions control gubbbins, the standard setting is 10deg BTDC. > >My approach would be to get the vernier adjustment more or less in the >middle, allowing you to adjust either way. Use the normal method of >twisting the distributor around to get the timing approximately right, then >tighten the dizzy down and use the vernier to get the adjustment just right. > >Dynamic timing should be done at low revs and with the vacuum advance >disconnected. > >Personally, if I had a vernier adjustment, I would then continue to fiddle >for the next week or so of driving, advancing by a few clicks before each >drive, until I got the first hints of pinking under low speed/full throttle >conditions, then back off a little, so I get the most advanced setting I can >get away with. Whether you do this or stick close to the standard setting >is up to you! > >Richard & Daffy > >-- >Important Notice: >The information in this email is confidential and may be legally-privileged. >If you have reason to believe you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, >copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on >it is prohibited and may be unlawful and you are requested to contact the sender >urgently and dispose of this email >---exp. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: HS4 Needles - Sports Exhaust & K&Ns - Video
James, I wish there was a place locally I could get that done, but will live with the current needles for now. Anyway I can't afford it at present anyway. Alan James Carruthers wrote: >Thanks Alan. > >I'm tempted to take the car to a rolling road - there is a good one near >me. I'm pretty sure they'll swap needles as much as you want. Obviously >you have to pay for them in the end - but they'll find the right one. One >guy (not someone from the tuning place) said that he got an extra 15% of >power from getting it done properly. > >Anyway, I need to get my engine rebuilt before it's worth doing all of >that... > > > >James > > > >Alan Lemen said: > > >>James, I think that's what I have. That's what I got from Sports Car >>Supplies (http://www.sportscarsupplies.co.uk - NFI) when I got my carbs. >> It seems to be the most common starting point for when you have the >>better flowing engine. >> >>Seem to work fine. There is probably a better set (always is) but >>finding the right one means spending time and money to get it perfect. >> >>Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: HS4 Needles - Sports Exhaust & K&Ns - Video
James, I think that's what I have. That's what I got from Sports Car Supplies (http://www.sportscarsupplies.co.uk - NFI) when I got my carbs. It seems to be the most common starting point for when you have the better flowing engine. Seem to work fine. There is probably a better set (always is) but finding the right one means spending time and money to get it perfect. Alan James Carruthers wrote: >Lister-ines, > > > >Sometimes I'm amazed at the level of service... Moss (europe) tut tut... > >Im not going to trust the guy on the phone... > >I have K&Ns on the dual HS4s and my new Bell twin box exhaust... what does >everyone recommend for needles - the dubious Moss guy said AAQ... he may >of course be right - but I thought I'd double check it... > > >Lastly, a video of my Spit that I shot yesterday, with sound track: > >http://www.justdrive.ca/video/james-spit.html > > > >James > > >1977 Pimento Red Spit /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Radiator hose problem
Usually those parts places can't get a Spitfire hose but let you see what they have and help you select something that is similar ( i.e. right bends and inside diameters, but too long), albeit with a bit of cutting down. Just ask. I've never had a problem getting to the back of the store. A lot of those parts guys enjoy the challenge as most of the time it's a standard part sale for some ford or chevy that they don't have to think about. Alan Terry L. Thompson wrote: >I spent sunday installing a non OE radiator in my >Spitfire, and came to the conclusion that I need a >special hose to make this thing work. >Specifically, I need a tight 90 deg. bend 1-3/4" >radiator hose. >Trak Auto used to have the coolant hoses where you >could browse and buy. Now that they've gone out of >business, the major parts suppliers (Schlep Boys, >Advanced Auto, NAPA) you have to go to the Parts >Counter and give them a make, model and year before >they will go look for it. >Does anyone know somewhere in MD/DC area that sells a >multitude of radiator hoses that can be browsed on a >rack? >Or if someone out there has an auto parts place that >still sells hoses off of the rack and is willing to >look for me and I'll pay for the item and shipping >plus something for your trouble? Just contact me >off-list. >I'd prefer to browse and buy myself, so that I can get >this done asap. As the car is obviously undrivable >without a hose. But any help or suggestions would be >greatly appreciated. >-Terry /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Exhaust questions: paste, wrap, needles
Joe, true about the heat and moisture. Since I live in what in classified as high desert I don't really care so much about moisture and rust anymore. But I would agree James lives in a damper climate. Mind you he is still drier than some places I would never wrap a mild steel header or anything mild steel unless of course I didn't care and could afford to replace like some racing teams. James, I had assumed that it was not mild steel. Mine is stainless steel. I have no idea what your one is made from. An alternative I have heard are coatings that take the heat, stop the rust and act as a thermal barrier to some degree. Not sure what is available in the UK. Trouble is that I am sure they cost more than the wrap. Also you can buy cans of spray treatment from the wrap manufacturers that seal the wrap from dirt and moisture. No idea how good they are though. Alan Joe Curry wrote: >One large downside to exhaust wraps. They retain heat and moisture in >the header and lead to premature deterioration of the header metal. I >would never use them unless there was no alternative. > > >Joe /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Exhaust questions: paste, wrap, needles
James some answers to your questions: >1) What does "assembly" paste do? Is it worth using? > I assume you mean that exhaust jointing compound in a tube. I got a tube of Unipart silicate white stuff with my system from Rimmers. It seals the joints but makes it hard to get it apart again, like when I pulled the differential. I could not get the back section free and had to take it apart at the front box. >2) I want to wrap the 4-2-1 manifold with exhaust wrap to improve engine >bay and cockpit heat, any tips, advice, downpoints? > It definitely helps keep the heat down, especially into the carbs. Make sure you have a good heat shield. Also put it on, with the header (manifold) off the car. Near impossible once it's on. >3) I'm going to need to change the needles in my twin HS4s, currently the >only mod on my car are K&Ns - what do I need once I have the Bell system >in place. > I have similar set up with the Rimmer quiet sports exhaust with 4-2-1 header and I think am running AAQ needles. I have K&N with twin HS4 and I have the high compression version (US '76) so very similar to your potential setup and I am pretty happy with it. Saying that, I replaced did everything at once so have no idea of individual affects. Never tried with the old needles that were in the carbs as I rebuilt with new jets and needles. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Differential problem, cont. (was goldarndest thing)
> Jeff, With the diff on the drill press, yes the swarf fell into the > casing. We did not destroy or wear out any bits. It was pretty easy. > We started with a small bit and worked up to the right size simply to > get the position correct and see how hard it was. Theoretically when > even when drilling up into the bottom when drill breaks though then > some amount must fly off. I suppose the distance will be limited by > the old gear oil (messy when it runs down the drill bits) and the fact > that that section is somewhat recessed when you look from the inside. > Plus as you say the oil will drain out with the swarf in it. Also a > flush with new oil should help wash most of what's left out, plus the > oil and crud of many years. My concern about drilling by hand would > be how straight the hole was for tapping afterwards. That was the main > reason for using the drill press. Although a good washer on the plug > is probably the main seal on the threads anyway as gravity will always > have the oil trying to come out that way all the time. At least there > is no pressure in the oil like there is in the engine. My other reason > for doing it was I wanted to put new mounting bushings and split the > diff as the seal was leaking and it gave me a real chance to check and > flush the original oil out. The chance to add the plug was in fact a > bonus. > > > Jeff McNeal wrote: > >> Alan, >> >> How many bits did you go through? And wouldn't the swarf be dropping >> down to >> the floor and not be pushed into the diff casing? I would think that >> the >> ensuing draining of oil would force any swarf that might have made it >> inside >> the casing out, and the magnetic plug I'd insert would take care of any >> remaining flecks. Is my reasoning flawed on this count? >> >> Thanks for the reply. >> >> Best wishes, >> >> Jeff /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Wires
Larry, Haynes manual shows coloured wire with plastic sleeve to top terminal. There were I remember markings stamped on the sensor next to the terminals at least on mine. Also it may not matter assuming the ground terminal is not itself connected to the tank as it's simply a variable resistor in the sensor and that itself is not polarity sensitive. Maybe someone without the panel in place could confirm. If you don't hear anything I can remove the panel and look. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Differential problem, cont. (was goldarndest thing)
Jeff, I recently added a drain plug, It was relatively easy but then I did take the diff out the car, split it apart and had access to a drill press to do it. Not sure if I would do it under the car. There was a fair amount off swarf created and I would not want that inside my diff. Alan Jeff McNeal wrote >How tough is it to drill and tap a drain hole through cast iron? I'm >wondering if now might be a good time to do this and fit a magnetic plug, just >for good measure. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Nose Height for late Spits
I'll second Kevin's email. Did the same plus new shocks and poly bushings all round. Now I don't feel like I'm taking off any more. Alan Kevin Rhodes wrote: >I bought a new set of springs meant for a MKI-III. I believe, and someone >will correct me if I am wrong, that these springs were used on all European >market Spitfires, only the US got the longer ones. Cheap from any of the >major suppliers. Perfect fit, dropped the nose down where it belonged, >rides nicely. Air shocks won't lower a car, and cutting the springs will >make it ride like a buckboard. About 2" drop, I would say, my car sits dead >level fore and aft. > >Kevin Rhodes > >Question: What's the best way to drop the nose down? Air adjustable > > >>shocks, different front springs, or to cut the existing spring (or a >>combination of two)? How much should I drop it, a couple of inches? >> >>Dan Parrott >>Savannah, Ga /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: The goldarndest thing!
Yes, to replace the bearing you'll need an hydraulic press and a strong plate or else you'll bend the flange if the plate does not really curve around the shaft as you push the bearings on and off the shaft. Guess how I know! Alan Bob Harris wrote: >Jeff, >I hope you can disassemble and find the clip that holds the bearing >in place on the stub shaft. I have changed these brg's and found it quite >difficult to remove the brg. from the shaft. While you're at it, there >couldn't be a better time to replace the seal. > > Good Luck, > Bob Harris /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Monza header, accelerator cable, and brake fluid
George, I would have thought that your current GE and and any other DOT 5 silicon would be fine and would mix OK. To put the LMA in you would want to flush all the all DOT 5 out even though I have heard tales of mixing and it's OK. But I would not. You never know what chemical effects and also the actual fluid compression properties may be ruined. Given the cost of flushing and the time I would just put another DOT 5 in. I have seen it at NAPA and even in some supermarkets. For the Pertronix, I have one - it's about 2 years or more now. I also have a Crane PS20 coil and works fine. The Pertronix simply has two wires coming out to the + and - coil terminals. Only problem I had is that the location was different with respect to the Allison ignition system that was in, so I had to reset the timing. But saying that I have never touched the Pertronix since. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Monza header, accelerator cable, and brake fluid
Nolan, There is NO outside box on mine or any other Pertronix I have ever seen. That's one of it's major it's selling points. You must be thinking of something else like Crane. Alan Nolan Penney wrote: >The Pertronix unit does replace the points, but there is an outside >box. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Jaguar in the Garage!
Daniel, I know there is a Jaguar Owners of North America club and also a main site is http://www.jag-lovers.org which has mailing lists. Alan Daniel Parrott wrote: >I just received delivery of a 2001 Jaguar S-Type for my wife to use as a TSV >(Triumph Support Vehicle). It's got 25k miles, and I'm real pleased. Is >there a Jaguar-based email list such as our beloved [EMAIL PROTECTED] >out there? > >Thanks in advance. > >Dan Parrott >Savannah, Ga >1980 Spit PJ >2001 Jag S-Type (no name as yet) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: lack of power
Never got back on this to let you folks know, but I think I tracked it down to a blocked pressure regulator that was in line with the carbs. I think it got blocked with the same gunk that stuck the float valve. I've taken it out and so far it ran for a longer trip of about 4-5 miles with a problem. Did not get too much speed/revs up so can't tell if the problem is fixed or just taking longer to happen, but I am keeping my fingers crossed. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Full sports exhaust - extra questions...
James I have the Rimmers quiet sports with 4-2-1 header, all SS and have the wrap around the header right down to where it goes to a single pipe. I am very happy with it. It did put a chrome tailpipe extension on as it was getting the bumper a bit dirty and the extension just help the exhaust clear the bumper better and it does not get as dirty as fast. Alan James Carruthers wrote: >Oh yeah... forgot something. > >Ceramic coating or thermal wrap? both? > >Do you do the whole exhaust or just the manifold? > > >And I didnt mean full sports as in a racing like situation - I meant the >full system including manifold > > > > > >James /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
lack of power
Some time ago you may remember by fuel pump problem. Well I have the new one now and after the dumping gas episode with a stuck float valve it was running fine. So today with the sun out and feels like spring is here, I took the car out. Started OK as it's been a couple of week since she last ran. Got around the corner and she started running rough with very little power. Managed to trundle back around the block home. Could not see anything wrong. Managed to get her running fine again after checking that there was fuel, but she did it again this time it was about 1/2 mile from home when the gremlins struck again. I tried to see if there was a pressure build up in the gas tank and even tried to run with the top open but still no luck. so persuaded her home again and still can't see what gives. She now runs fine again, but I suspect that driving back out she'll loose power again. Any ideas as I checked the obvious even to making sure there is fuel in both fuel bowls. This is twin SU HS4 and a mechanical pump. Last time out she ran really great. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Idle
Michael, I set my idle high at around 1000 rpm for that exact reason. Over the winter it stalled at junctions etc. when I have the lights on. So up the idle. Should not cause a problem except at emissions testing where I made sure it was daylight and set it back down. It is a virtual UK spec as it has twin SU HS4 and as it is a '76 the same compression ratio as yours. Electronics are all better than new on it as I have replaced everything over time. In fact yours may still be points like I had on my Dolomite and I have electronic ignition (upgraded twice in it's life since original) and that does not help. Even has a newish alternator. I set the timing at the correct idle and then simply upped the idle speed. Yes it does drop about 200 rpm with the lights on and I upped the power of my lights just slightly with new headlamps when I fitted them after it was painted and I was putting everything back on. Problem is that any load dops the idle on our cars unlike the modern ones with computers that keep it constant. Alan Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote: >Dear All, > >I have been having trouble getting the idle setting right on Carly >(stock UK-spec '77 1500). Having fixed the blowing exhaust manifold >gasket, and refilled the car with four star leaded petrol, she should >have been idling smoothly at about 850. She wasn't. She coughed and >spluttered and died. So I tweaked the screws on the top of the SUs by >about 30 degrees until I got a nice smooth idle at 850. No problem. >Then I turned the headlights on. The engine revs immediately dropped >by about 200 rpm, then she coughed, spluttered and died. This problem >recurred about 90% of the times I tried it. > >This has to be an electrical problem, but I can't figure out where it >is, or what I need to do to fix it. Can anyone help? Please? > >ATB /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: couple nagging 1500 questions.....
Dave did you check the gauge by shorting the sender to ground. It should go full scale. You can also check the sender value by measuring the resistance across the two terminals. Full tank should be in the 10's of ohms range. 1/4 tank is 60 - 100 ohms or thereabouts. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Gaskets
Surprisingly (or not) my 1976 original electronic tach is pretty accurate. Maybe just lucky. I have compared to external tachs (including various government ones at emissions testing, a test unit I have, etc. ) and always been spot on as far as I can tell. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Speedo cable / smiths box (% used)
Robert sounds like the service indicator. Mounted right next to the PDWA brake unit on a bracket with the same bolt I remember. Should also be a couple of wires ( maybe just one) that go ( eventually) to the service light on the dash. Supposed to light up when it's done so many miles. I've seen details in the manuals but ignored as I don't have it.. Most people have removed (or a PO has like on mine - bracket, no unit) and have a straight cable from tranny to speedo as they were apparently cause of numerous problems. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I have a question and I hope it's not too stupid, the cable that runs from >the transmission to my speedometer, passes through a smiths box, that is >labelled % used, and has the number 270 in it, what is this box. >What's it called what does it do...?? What's the 270 mean...? > >Thanks. > >Robert. >78 Spitfire /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: ZS or Weber?
Greg, OK, so I don't have a Weber, but twin SU HS4. But getting rid of the Stromberg (and the air pump if you can) gives the car a whole new lease of life. I added a header and sports exhaust at the same time, but I am sure you'll feel the difference with just a single Weber. Lots of folks have done that. The car will drive more like it was supposed to. No idea if it's easier to tune, but it's got to bit a bit easier than my twin SU as you don't have to balance the airflow. I would not go back if I could help it. Oh, I also had problems getting my Stromberg to adjust properly. So if you can afford it and it does not cause you any emissions grief, I would go for it. Just my 2 cents worth. Alan Greg Hendrix wrote: >Listers, > >I'm weary of trying to get my ZS carb set properly. The Roadster Factory has >a sweet Weber downdraft kit with the intake manifold, air cleaner, etc on >sale. I'm a TRF club member, so with discounts and everything it's a $375 >upgrade. The side drafts are very cool, the duals are more cool, but not >cheap. > >My question is this: should I make the plunge for the dollars? Is the Weber >downdraft easier to keep tuned, or should I pull the ZS, have someone >rebuild it, and keep it original? > >Personal experience and recommendations are greatly appreciated! > >Greg Hendrix >Downingtown, PA >'80 Spitfire /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Clutch replacement
Dave when I did mine (76) the only extras I needed were the copper bushings on the lever pin. The pin goes on the outside, but on the inside where the lever pivot goes in the bellhousing, the bushings were shot. I got ones of the same inside and outside diameters at an autoparts store. They are in fact the ones for (chevy?) door pins. Slightly different length, but that was not what mattered. No seals or gaskets needed as it's a dry area. Alan D T Gebhard wrote: >Spitlisters, >Good day from frosty northern Indiana. I intend to purchase and replace my >clutch(1977 1500) with the kit thats on sale with V.B. It includes clutch, >pressure plate, throw out bearing and an alignment tool. I can do the job but >I'm wondering if there's any other seals,gaskets,ect. that I need to do while >I'm *in there*. >Thanks >Dave Gebhard >1977 1500 FM60984U /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: '70 dual brake master question
Joe, When I did mine I simply took the master apart and with the piston, kept all the old parts in order noting direction of the old rubber seals and rebuilt in order with the new parts. I do have both Haynes and Bentley. I never even did the bench bleeding, but it may help, as I did have trouble getting the air round the bends in the pipe and out the slave bleed nipple. My solution ended up with several very hard, fast pumps on the clutch with the bleed hose in an almost sealed container so that it did not fly all over the place and also so the old brake fluid did not splash everywhere. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Listers; > I am needing to rebuild a cylinder, and I seem to remember someone >saying that the diagram in the Haynes manual is in error. Is this correct, >and if so is there a photo somewhere on the Internet? >Thanks >Joe Garrison >Edmond, OK /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: flashers/indicators unit
>OK, I found the bracket just left of the choke, right in line with the trip odometer >reset on the back of the dash. Looks like the flasher has been replaced with a round >(Unipart one, made in USA) so I will make a square to round bracket (from a piece of >thin scrap metal) to fit just like some of the after market ones already have. > Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Fuel pump
My fuel pump decided to leak so I ordered a new one ( right part no etc.).. Problem is it won't fit. Side view the shape is perfect . But the new shaft that lies on the cam is a U shaped piece as opposed to an l shape. So it does not appear to fit inside the engine casting, as it is semi round inside next the cam. Anyone else had this and found a solution? Bent the U shape in at the top. I don't want to cut as the shape gives it strength. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Window alignment
Craig, I often have a similar problem with the same window. The glass jumps out of the plastic carrier and I have to get it back in or else it is not aligned correctly. In fact gluing it back is on the winter job list. May be a similar problem. It will still roll up and down when it has jumped out of the carrier. Alan Craig Smith wrote: >I need some help. >My drivers side window when rolled up does not match the windscreen. >The top is too far forward. >I have tried to adjust with the bolts in the door but I'm at the max now. >It seems the carrier is not aligned correctly but I don't see a place to >adjust. >I need to fix this before I have to buy a new piece of glass. >I know good and well that I'm going to screw up and slam the door with the >window up !! > > >Craig Smith >Office 864/289-0933 >Fax864/289-9645 /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Windshield Washer motor
If it did, all those toy trains, remote control cars etc. would have a problem and my electric windows (not Spitfire) would only go down and never up... Now an AC motor it makes no difference. But a DC motor - reversing the connections will reverse the direction. Alan Nolan Penney wrote: >A DC motor turns the same, regardless of how the wires are connected. > > > >>>>"Ed Esslinger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 12/24/02 03:13PM >>> >>>> >>>> > Does the washer motor on 78-80 cars have two wires coming out of it? >If they >are reversed will the motor run in the same direction and still pump? >Thanks >in advance for any help. Best Regards and Merry Xmas. Ed >Cool Cat Eddie ,1 S3 GT,3 S4's, 2 S5's, 2 MK1 Tigers /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: "Denatured Alcohol" and Flying Fantasies
Geoff, try methilated spirits - I believe it's another name. Used to be what it was called in the UK. Denatured alcohol I had never heard of until I came to the US and found it when I was looking for meths. Have not actually ever bought it over here as yet so can't tell if it's the same. Just a thought that it may be called meths in Canada. Alan Douglas Braun wrote: >Denatured alcohol should be easy to find, certainly at Home Depot. >I have a gallon from there, which cost maybe $5 (US). > >Acetone is a bit too strong, and may harm rubber seals, paint, etc. > >Doug > >At 07:27 PM 12/17/02 -0600, Geo. Heyland wrote: > > >>OK folks - I've seen several references to denatured alcohol as a recommended >>brake/clutch system cleaner prior to switching to DOT 5 fluid. I've checked >>at Walmart, Home Depot, Canadian Tire (being Canadian) and the Building Box - >>no luck - no one even knows what I'm talking about (granted, most are teenage >>wannabe's with limited familiarity with this stuff). Is it known by some >>other name? Any ideas on where I can acquire it? I also saw a reference to >>acetone - is this a good thing to flush through a system, or might if affect >>the seals? I figure to fill the system with some kind of cleaner then blow it >>out with air pressure and refill with DOT 5 (note - I've already cleaned and >>rebuilt the MC and slave, and have all new wheel cylinders/rebuilt caliper >>pistons, so the big issue is cleaning out the tubing). /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Photographic proof
Larry I put a pair or twin SU on my car. So have a number of others. Follow the setup instructions for after a rebuild in the manuals ( Haynes or Bentley) and you should not have any trouble. I don't see why they would be any different than putting on the Webers. They would not ruin the cylinders any more than any other type of carb. I assume you mean by running too rich. Personally for me it would be a worry putting on Webers as I am more familiar with SU carbs. I put twin HS4 on my 1500 to replace the single Stromberg as well. Easy to get setup up and running. Initial setting gets the car running not bad and not to far out from where it needs to be. Just don't forget to make sure you have that main throttle return spring attached. You know who forgot that one. All carbs need some form of initial setting to get the car running and warmed up and then fine tuning. Also if you have the SU HS4 (1 1/2 inch) or HS2 they are so easy to adjust, especially on the Spitfire (they are more awkward on a Healey or an MGB in comparison due to limited space but do adjust really easy). Easier than with that tool you need to use when adjusting Strombergs as well. Webs may also be easy but I've never had one. If you were going to put on twin Webs then you must have some form of balancing air flow which is the same for the Sue's. Apart from that no special tools are needed. Alan Larry Vaughan wrote: >I will be starting up a rebuilt motor soon. Is 20-50 the correct break in >oil? >I have a problem with the motor I am rebuilding. The original Stromberg carb >shot a stream of gas out of a hole, but ran if some one held a finger on it. >I ran a single 40DCOE18 with good results for a very brief period. I then >traded the 18 for a 3, so I would have a matched set of webers. I never ran >the dual 40DCOE3 setup before I put the motor in the shop. I Began to worry >about the initial break in with untried Webers, new cam etc. I bought a pair >of SU carbs from John Esposito, $175.00 on ebay, and will run the stock cam >till I get the carbs working. The motor will be stock European spec >basically. The cylinders will be honed standard size with 9 to 1 pistons. If >the SU carbs are totally out of whack and I can't get the damn thing to run >initially, will I ruin the cylinders? >I am gettig very anxious about this!! >Larry /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Bond Cars Reprise
There was what looked like a Herald/Vitesse convertible in one the other day! No Spitfires seen as yet. Alan Scott A. Roberts wrote: >For all those on the American side of the pond, with cable TV, TNN has been having a >24 hour/5 day Bond film marathon... I have been enjoying the cars immensely... > >In "You Only Live Twice", he and the Japanese female agent are tooling about in that >special little white number. The car has quite an interesting engine- apparently it >achieves high speed with no engine revs! Through out most of the driving scenes she >keeps her hands on the wheel ,blocking any view of the gauges. But in one, she turns >sharply, bringing the tach into view, where it is clearly pegged at 0. A little >later, you catch the speedo in the same situation. I'd hate to think they faked these >driving scenes! ;) > >Scott /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Quid question
So you got the PEE part. Yeah, we kept that sterling part a secret. Pounds are Pounds Sterling - as opposed to other pounds i.e. weight or other currencies which are called pounds. It actually has that on the notes ( I checked the one and the two fivers in my wallet - don't ask! But I am sure you will as it sounds intriguing. I have them as momentos - ought to really put them somewhere safer, but have carried these in the back of my wallet for years. One pound notes stopped in England years ago. But in Scotland we kept them a few more years, each bank eventually giving up on one pound notes and with all the mergers etc. also reducing the number of banks with their own notes. Basically each major Scottish bank had it's own set about 40 years ago. All similar. In that I mean the colours and sizes for the denominations unlike the US "Henry Ford" ones - green or green and all the same size. Bit like US gallons as opposed to Imperial gallons. Imperial being the British size as you know doubt have seen from the car fluids capacities. Of course there are local terms as well for monies. I am sure I have some (Scottish) ones that are in addition to the list from Mike if I can remember. Alan Terry Thompson wrote: >I'd been wanting to ask that same question for months, >sparked by viewings of the UK episodes of Antiques >Roadshow and other BBC sit coms. But always held off >feeling it non sequitor to the list. >Appraiser on TV:"You paid 5 PEE? How wonderful! Well, >you should have this insured for atleast 3000 sterling >I would think." antique owner: "oh. That's wonderful." >Me to my mom: "What the hell's a PEE? they pay in >produce over there? Don't they get mushed in your >pockets?" >Which reminds me, what the hell's a sterling? There >are other terms which I heard used on the BBC shows, >and would at times jot down phonetically on a notepad >when i figured they were talking about money. >Eventually, I threw the list away when I felt the list >had become to exhaustive. >I estimate that the British have as many terms for >money (slang and denomination) as Eskimos have words >for SNOW. >-Terry >my own: chinks <- Elizabethan era term for money >though not a specific denomination. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: spitfire alternator problems
Tom easiest way is pull the alternator and get it checked. Most places do this for free. May be the diode pack that has packed up. Mine went and it was the whole thing I had to replace. What's a while? - weeks or years? or do you just mean the car with a flat battery cause of the alternator not charging. Alan Tom Marshall wrote: >I have almost finished getting all of the electrics working on my 1975 spit >1500 and will soon be moving on the try and start the beast I have a >niggly problem though. The ignition light doesn't come on when I turn the >ignition, The way I understand it should come on and stay on until about 620 >RPM then go off. Now I know the light and the wiring up to the alternator >works as I have tested it. Why question is, Why isn't it working ??? has my >alternator had it?? is there a relay or anything in the alternator which is >doing this?? any suggestions will be helpful > >Also any advise on how to start a car that probably hasn't started for a >while?? > >Cheers > >Tom /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: New Spit 1500 owner electrical questions (lite)
Welcome Dave. Glad to hear a confirmed Triumph guy out there ( p.s. I
have ford as well)
Sorry to be short but I have to leave in a minute to local car club
night - go-kart racing..
Hope this helps:
No 1 sounds like the old Lucus Opus electronic ignition connector. If
you have a replacement ignition system then don't worry.
No 2 yes there is a buzzer up under the passenger side that warns when
the seatbelts are not fastened etc. May be the leads from that that used
to go to the seat switch.
No 3 yes, switches go bad. If you take of the trim in front of the
handbrake and then the arm rest you can get to the switch. I thought I
had mine fixed and it then started to stay on all the time. Now it
decides when it wants to work or not.
No 4 sounds like it although the senders do go bad. Mine went only to a
half reading with a full tank and an OK float. If you short out the
correct terminal to ground it should give full range reading.
The wiring diagrams at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html should
help.
Regards,
Alan ('76 Spitfire)
Dave Willner wrote:
>Just purchased an 80 Spit a few weeks and new to the list. It's an original
>car, right down to the tires, with 31K on the clock. I've owned a TR3A for the
>past 20 years and have been active on the "other" TR list for quite some time.
>Hoping to be able to contribute and add my .02 here in awhile, once I get my
>bearings straight.
>
>Question1. I'm detailing under the bonnet and have removed the "splash
>guards" and noticed a white female connector that was taped up. It's opposite
>the distributor and has white, white and blue, and white and gray (slate)
>wires attached. It's off the main harness and about 6-8" long. I can't seem to
>find out it's purpose? Car doesn't have OD.
>
>Question 2: There a green and black lead with a female connector that was
>wrapped around the steering column up near the wheel. When unwrapping it I
>apparently grounded it out, a buzzer went off, no key in ignition, door was
>open? Any thoughts, not sure where it goes, and why it's there.
>
>Question 3: The handbrake warning light is out. I replaced the bulb, still
>out. Does the switch go bad, and is it humanly possible to get to it?
>
>Also last one, fuel gauge reads 3/4 after filling, I'm assuming that I may
>have a small leak in the float? The temp gauge reads fine, so I don't believe
>it's the stabilizer, but I may be wrong?
>
>Appreciate the help.
>
>Dave Willner
>Stroudsburg, PA
>59 TR3A Apple Green
>80 Spitfire Carmine Red
>95 Probe GT
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
/// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Clutch release pin question
Jeff , just needs the pin to come "out the hole". Just move it as little as possible, I would have thought. Don't forget to also support the engine with a block and jack under the sump. Should take the strain off the input shaft. You might want to put a couple of long bolts in at the top in place of the studs as sliders to help keep it aligned as you slide the bellhousing/gearbox/overdrive back and forward. Also I can't think of any other way to get at that pin otherwise. Alan Jeff McNeal wrote: >Here's the situation. New clutch installed, engine bolted to transmission >bellhousing, entire assembly installed as a unit. So far so good. Now to >connect the clutch slave. Whoops!! Release pin on the throwout arm is on the >inside of the bell housing. Proposed solution: Remove front of prop shaft, >place a rolling floor jack under the gearbox, remove all the bolts around the >bellhousing, remove the starter motor, slide the transmission unit back a few >inches, reposition the clutch pin so it's emerging from the bell housing. Am >I missing something? Is there any need for the transmission to come all the >way out? It's an O/D unit, so it's a heavy bugger. I can move it back about >4" - 5" inches with no trouble, it looks like. Is there a better way? TIA /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Pickup Truck vs. Spitfire (not pretty)
On my way home from work tonight I was rear ended by a truck with winch on the front end. If the driver was aiming he could not have hit me more on center. The rear quarter panels are fine, but the valance and boot lid are a mess. No-one was injured, but I'm feeling pretty deflated. On the bright side I guess I know what my winter project will be. If anyone has a boot lid for a Mk1-3 that they are willing to part with part with let me know. Thanks Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Glazer for hardtop window needed
While searching through a salvage yard, I was able to find a hardtop for my Mk1 Spitfire, unfortunately it doesn't have the rear window. Does anyone know of a glass shop where I order one, or am I stuck with getting a custom piece made? Thanks Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Engine swap question
I'm looking at dropping a 1500 and tranny into my Mk1 while I rebuild the 1147. Will I need to use any other drive train parts from the 1500 to complete this? Thanks Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Tachometer Question
Seeing the thread on the speedo has reminded me to see if anyone out there has seen and knows the cure for a bouncing tech. Fine except around 3000 rpm when it's hot. When it's cold it's fine and low down it's fine but on a long drive on a hot day. Fine the next day when it's cold. Any manuals or info on them. I would like to try and fix myself. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Adjusting SU carbs
Hmm, when I did mine I did not have the problem. I went by the instructions in the Haynes for setting up after a rebuild. OK, I forgot to connect the main linkage spring ( I did not have one...) and had the linkage locked with the mechanism half way at idle so could not get full throttle But apart from that it was OK. Did you do all the settings of all the way and then back the requisite no of turns for the jets and the idle settings. Are the needles in correct and level? With the engine running at 2500 rpm how is the air flow to each carb? Are they near balanced? ( screw the idle screws on both carbs done until the revs stay, then loosen the linkage and check the air flow balance). Have you checked for air leaks at the manifold? Are both float bowls full of fuel. or you could try - With the idle set high try balancing the carbs and then see if the pin that pushes the piston makes a difference (or lift the piston with a screw driver). Revs should change slightly up or down depending upon state of tune of the carb. If nothing then carb isn't doing anything. Does adjusting the idle screw with the carbs separated make a difference. It may be running on one carb. Or the pistons could be sticking. I have seen the effects of gunk and deposits sticking the pistons. The other thing I use is a Colourtune. If you have one or access to one it may show what the cylinders are getting. Wish you guys were closer. I love tinkering with SU's, at least on the Spitfire. Austin Healey and MGB are a pain to work on in comparison due to restricted access to the jet adjusting nuts - I have done cars both with twin Colourtunes. Spitfire is by far the easiest to work on. You don't get burnt and linkages are easier to tighten without losing the balance. Alan Howard Baugues wrote: >Calling on the list wisdom again. >I have my 1.5" SU carbs installed on my 76 Spit. It started, but would only >idle high 2500+rpm with the choke out or the pedal pressed down. It would not >idle down and stay running. If I let off or let the choke back in, it would >die. > >Any suggestions? Where should I start? > >Thanks in advance, >Howard > > > > > >Scott A. Roberts wrote: >LET ME KNOW TOO, PLEASE! > >Scott /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
ABFM-Portland Labor Day Weekend. (longish)
Thought I would do a quick write up. You will see why as you read it.
Well we left on Thursday evening. Spitfire, MGB and TR3 heading west into the setting
sun. Sounds great and it was. I had my 11 year old daughter with me. She loved it.
Particularly seeing the stars out, when it got dark and we were in the middle of
nowhere. Stopped halfway (Pendleton) overnight and continued into the Portland area in
the morning. Beautiful run down the Columbia Gorge, except some one had an accident
blocking the parallel side road we planned to take to see more scenery and take in
some nice twisty roads. It runs up high above the gorge to some breathtaking
viewpoints. My wife followed on Friday with another daughter in the minivan (fallen
off parts collection vehicle).
Saturday was the day of the show part. This years marque was Jaguar ( cars with XK
engines 1948-1988). Some beautiful examples. In total well over 600 cars of all sorts
- all British in one way or another. There were a number of spitfires and some GT6's.
I managed to get parked between a couple of old friends' Spitfires from when I used to
live in the Portland area and was a member of the PTOA. I wandered around and took
some pictures (I'll send out an email with a URL later) and was over talking to
another friend with his old XK when I heard my name from the tent where they were
announcing the winners of the judging. Shock! I won second place in the people's
choice in the Spitfire category. Cool! First ever.
Sunday was the swap meet part and autocross and rally. My friend's MGB was sold. He
plans to get a TR6 that will take a couple of years to put back together. Only
Spitfires for sale were ones with non standard engines. One had a Toyota engine and
transmission. The other I can't remember what exactly but another small Japanese type.
Straight run home on Sunday afternoon/evening of 400+ miles. I traveled with my friend
with the Jag. He had it trailered because he's getting on in years and has a bad back
and can't drive it that far. It's not a trailer queen, it's his daily driver- an XK140
coupe.
My Spitfire ran great - romped up those big hills on I84. Only had to drop out of
overdrive on the steepest parts. Sweet revenge, as I was cruising nicely along the
flat and all those trucks and SUV's etc. would thunder past. Hit the hills and I went
past them! Got home after 71/2 hours driving with one quick gas stop. Amazing the
number of folks that slowed down to look at the car. Overall 36 mpg (US). I think I
was getting over 40 mpg when I slip-streamed behind my friends trailer.
Didn't see anyone from the list. If you did go, my car was the one with the Scottish
flags. On Sunday it was under the trees in the shade.
Alan ('76 Spitfire)
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
/// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
