Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
NOx production in the combustion chamber is dependant on flame temperature and combustion pressure. Increasing the compression ratio will have little effect on the flame temperature but it will ncrease the combustion pressure which will increase NOx. I have no experience with reciprocating engines but in a gas turbine engine the NOx increases by the square root of the pressure. Assuming that this is the case in a recip, then going from ,say 9 :1 compression ratio ro 10 :1 will increase the Nox by 5.5% The EGR valve system is calibrated to admit sufficient exhaust gas into the combustion chamber to reduce the NOx to whatever the regulations require. This calibration is done with the standard compression ratio for the engine. If you increase the compression ratio the calibration will not be correct. despite the above I think that since the California smog test is done at very low power settings I would be surprised if increasing the compression ratio had any significant effect on NOx readings. However when you raise the compression ratio you will get detonation unless you retard the ignition, because the best fuel you can get in Ca is 91 Octane, and this will reduce power. So don't think that you can get the engine back to MkIII power levels. I suggest if you want more power sell the Spit and buy a TR ! Stuart A Greenwood 71 MK I Stag 71 MK IV Spitfire From: "spitfires-requ...@autox.team.net" To: spitfires@autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:00 AM Subject: Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48 Send Spitfires mailing list submissions to spitfires@autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to spitfires-requ...@autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at spitfires-ow...@autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Spitfires digest..." Today's Topics: 1. High compression pistons and smog test (Hans) -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:14:21 -0700 From: Hans To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test Message-ID: <356b6e8e-7020-4d5b-a0df-9188ca7c2...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am rebuilding my California 1976 spitfire's engine and considering using Moss's HC flat top pistons instead of the LC (dished) ones. I have been told that I risk failing the NOx smog test max requirement. I understand that this is due to the combustion chamber's temperature potentially exceeding 2500 degrees , which generates NOx. Assuming the EGR to function perfectly and the fuel mixture to a bit rich, is this still potentially a high risk problem? There must be a few a guys out there that have been tempted to do this to get the nearly 20 extra hp. That is so badly needed. -- ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Rear spring with too much arch
About 6 monhts ago I replaced the rear spring on my MkIV with a new one from Moss Motors in Goleta. The old one was bottoming going over dips in the road. The problem I have is that the rear wheels now have quite a bit of positive camber and I can feel the wheels "tucking in " when I go round a corner even at moderate speeds. The only solutions I can come up with are get the spring de-arched like Kasner says in his book or put a thick spacer between the diff and the spring to lift it up so that the drive shafts angle becomes closer to horizontal. However the spacer idea is a little tricky since it would have to have a stub to locate in the hole on the diff and then a hole in its' top side so the stub on the spring bracket would slot in and hence retain the ability of the spring to pivot. It looks almost impossible to drill holes lower down in the uprights which carry the drive shafr bearings hence lifting the drive shafts without using a spacer. I was hoping that the spring would de-arch itself after a while but I put a load of bricks in the trunk and just couldn't get to even a zero camber let alone negative camber as it should be. Has anyone come across this problem and found a solution? I also notice that Kasner also recommends removing the loop on the second leaf but this loop looks like it is a safety device in the event of failure of the main leaf to upright attachment. Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Clutch judder
I reconditioned my engine and fitted a new clutch 7500 miles ago. The clutch has started to judder badly and I have to use more than the normal amount of revs to get away smoothly in 1st and 2nd gear. I don't rhink rhat it's due to oil leaking from either the gearbox or the engine getting on the clutch plate. The engine mounts don't look too bad... haven't looked at the gearbox mount yet... all were new 7500 miles ago. What other causes might there be? Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Singe stage ot two stage paints
To me it depends on how experienced you are at spray painting and how good a spray booth you have. Base coat clear coat systems are very foregiving. You don't get any runs in the base coat since you are not after thickness so the spray gun is set to deliver a fairly paint density. The clear has to go on much heavier and you can get runs but these are easily buffed out with a 3000 grit compound and a rotary buffer. If the spray booth you are using is not looked after ( i.e clean inside and the filters reguraly changed) you will get dust specks in the clear. You can also get orange peel due to inexperience with the spray gun. But if you wet sand the clear with 2000 or 2500 grit you can most of these problems. Put 3 coats of clear on to give you some depth to wet sand. I've just finished my 71 Spit with base coat/clear coat in Damson Red, it's original colour. I knew I was going to get dust since I inspected other cars which used the same spray booth ( one at a local College) and orange peel because I had never sparyed a car before but I was amazed at just how I could get this out with a wet sand and then 3000 grit buffing to get the shine back. The Damson red does look lighter and more glossy than the original paint... as I could see by looking at areas of the car which still had the original paint like the underside of the trunk lid. So I repainted inside the trunk lid, inside the doors and inside the bonnet. At 5 foot distance the paint job looks really good, close inspection shows some orange peel and remanants of dust. To the normal layman, who doesn't know what to look for in a paint job, it looks terrific. With some single stage you can't wet sand so you can't get rid of your mistakes without starting again. The guys who used single stage at the college booth were stuck with runs and dust spots. Maybe there are some single stage paints that can stand a wet sand I don't really know. But to me you must be able to wet sand Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Tonneau cover attachment
I have an original factory tonneau which at the front has metal eye holes where it slips of the pegs on the top of the dash. But it tends to fly off in the wind. To me this can only work if the tonneau is a tight fit so the eyes hold fast beneath the lip on the pegs. Is this correct or am I missing some kind of fastener? Maybe like the ones used on some TR2/3s which have a spring clip on each side of the part attached to the tonneau so the spring compresses as it slips over the lip on the pegs and then snaps back to grip the peg Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Door mirrors
Thanks to all the people who replied. I going to use the TRF TEX ones and bolt them to the doors as Mike Jones did. While on the subject of mirrors TRF always state that the bullet ones don't work well on the Right Hand Side. The bullet door mirrors I have( they are the small ones not the huge ones oringially fitted by dealers to the left hand side) also have this problem but it can be overcome. The bullet is bolted to the base. You can elongate the bolt hole and twist the bullet around so it's non longer parallel to the base. You only need a little bit of twist and then you can get enough angle on the mirror itself so it works OK on the RHS. This is OK if only you drive the car, or the other person uses the same seat position as you. In my case the wife sits closer to the wheel and I needed so much twist on the bullet that it looked really way off parallel to the base. So that's why I'm using the Tex ones. Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Rear spring
I took my rear spring apart during my restoration and cleaned the leafs up and fitted new buttons but it's not a success. The leafs were too tired. restoring them like you intend will be fruitless unless you are sure the leafs are OK. Really the only way to tell is if the car bottomed on the bump rubber when going over a slight bump in the road with two up. I would say forget restoring them if this occurs. As to the FRONT mark my memory is a bit hazy but I think that this is on the main leaf.. the one that has the eyes for the rubber bushes. Front means to the front of the car of course. The other leaves I beleive can be fitted either way round. Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Door mirrors
Since nobody had any comment on the Tex mirrors sold by TRF I take it that either (a) the mirror fixing system is good enough or (c) nobody buys these... if so what mirrors have you guys got on your cars? Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Door mirrors and A post seals
I got a set of the Tex door mirrors from TRF. I really don't like the way they attached to the door or the way the mirror stem attaches to the mounting plinth. I can overcome the first problem by bolting through the door metal rather than using the plastic plugs but I can't really modify the way the stem mirror mounts. Has anybody with has these mirror had a issue with the mirror stem either falling off the plinth or being inadvertenly knocked off by a passerby? The mounting seems very weak to me. All the catalogues show a seal which goes around the entire door opening right up to the top of the A post. Then there is a separate A post seal. The seals I got have pretty big round hollow rubber seals. When I put the door opening seal on it touches the window glass more or less rendering the A post seal superfluous. Are you supposed to cut off the rubber seal from the door opening seal where is goes up the A post and then put the A post seal on. There sure doesn't look ike there is room for both I appreciate any advice Stuart Greenwood 71 MKIV Spit and 71 MKI Stag Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] trunk light
I'm fitting a trunk light to my MkIV. My 71 Mk IV has never had a trunk light. I'll put the light in the rear panel that covers the fuel tank but where do I put the switch? I presume that it is positioned so that it touches one of the trunk hinges but it's not easy to see just how the swich can be positioned to do this. I understand the 1500 has a trunk light so on a 1500 where is the swtich positioned? Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] rear deck finisher part # 624801 for Mk IV
Until I looked in the catalogues I was not aware that there was such a thing as a rear deck finisher. My car doesn't have one. On the raised edge of the rear deck there is (a) a metal plate bolted on which the soft top is riveted to and (b) 8 black plastic studs riveted to the deck edge which engage the poppers of the soft top. What's the finisher made of? If it goes on the raised edge of the rear deck it must have holes in it to allow the metal plate to be bolted to the deck and maybe the black plastic studs hold it on? Can anybody enlighten me on this finisher. Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] rear brake hoses
When I was removing the outer drive shafts from my 1971 MkIV spit I noticed that the flex brake hose ( I have the Aeroquipe type) are only just long enough when the car is jacked up and the rear suspension is fully unloaded and drops until the shock absorber is fully extended. When I look in the Mk IV ROM, section 70.15.17 there is a nice drawing showing that flex holes connects to the rear wheel cylinder as mine does. However in the Rimmers catalogue, page 106 it suggests that the flex hose doesn't connect to the cylinder but to another length of pipe before it goes to the cylinder. Is the Rimmers picture just for the single line system fitted to early cars rather than the tandem dual line system? Stuart A Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Rear Outer dive shafts ( half shafts in UK speak)
When I completely restored all the mechanical stuff on my 1971 Mk IV Spitfire I noticed that the holes in the yokes attached to the drive shafts inner ends ( where the Universal Joint Needle bearing cups press in) had at some time in the past been badly mauled. The cups where loose in the holes rather than a press fit but as there didn't appear to be any play I hoped they would be OK. After 3000 miles I noticed a UJ " clonking" sound when there was no torque on the drive ( like coasting up to a stop light say) and at 4500 miles it was too bad to ignore. Laying under the car and using a screw driver to lever on the UJs I could detect a fair amount of play in the bearing cups that where in the yoke on the drive shaft the ones on the yoke on the differential shaft were OK. I thought that the bearing had gone there are poor quality parts about these days as you know. Anyway when I removed the left hand side shaft ( this one had the most play) the needle bearing looke d OK and there was no wear marks on the bearing surfaces of the crucifx. But I could see that the bearing cups had been rotating inside the yoke. So it's apparent that I need either new yokes or get them sleeved and re-drilled to size. Since there holes have to be pretty accurately machined and I don't know how much press fit there should be ( maybe 0..002 inch on diameter I would think) I'm not keen on this approach unless someone knows of a place that has experience doing this. The problem is that you don't seem to be able to purchase just the yokes... you have to get the complete drive shaft and , as you know, this means pressing the shaft out of the hub etc. and as I did all this doing the restoration it doesn't need doing. So my question is has anyone replaced a yoke on a drive shaft? It's a splinned fit with what looks like a roll pin holding it in place. If this can be done I can probably pick up some used drive shafts and just use the yokes. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Spitfire IV emblems
Just an update on emblem removal. The emblems on the bonnet and the rear wings have two pegs cast into them on the backside. There are two holes drilled in the bodywork into which are fitted plastic retainers. When you push the emblems in the pegs go into the retainers and spread them they are locked to the body work. It's easy to get the emblems off. Just carefully lever them off using a thin blade like a paint scraper. The plastic retainers will say in the holes. The problem is getting the retainers out without damaging them since they have been spread out when the emblems were orginally put in. I haven't tried to do this yet but it will have to be done so I can block sand the panels prior to painting. Stuart A Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Hard top head lining
Has anyone used foam rubber or some other material to stick to the roof of the hardtop instead of using the factory rooof liner which is suspended off the roof by spring bows. I haven't got any spring bows and I haven't seen any for sale. As I live in South California there is no chance of any significant condensation on the inside of the roof so I think that something stuck to the roof will work fine. Stuart A Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Spitfire IV emblems
How can I safely get the Spitfire IV emblems off the hood and rear fenders so that I can paint the car and then put them back on? They look like a part cast out of cheap metal and have two pegs that go through the body work and are secured is some way.From the back these pegs look like blind rivets that haven't been compressed. Stuart A Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Car Covers
As somebody already said you don't want a cover that can't breath otherwise the car will stay wet. In my experience the best material is one called sunbreja This has a 5 year guarantee. I have had one for 6 years and used it everyday when the car is parked all day in the sun at work or on the drive at home. For the first 4 years it didn't leak water when it was raining and now it just lets a little through .The only thing that fails is the stitching . After 4 years I sent it back under warrantee and they re-stitched it and also replaced some panels that had worn... all for $13 including postage. It's a thick cover so it doesn't roll up small. I've just bought a new cover made from Weathershield for another of my cars which is much thinner and therefore rolls up small. I'm thinking I should have stuck with Sunbeja but the sales man said I would like it we'll see Like everything else don't buy a cheap cover. For a good cover you are looking at $300. [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:24:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Milkevitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Spits] Car Covers To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello Listers: I hope everyone had the chance to enjoy their cars today. The weather here in the Philadelphia PA area has been very nice today. I am currently contemplating purchasing another car cover for my Spitfire, since the car has to "live" outside. I've had several covers for this car, and all have fallen apart within 1 year. Has anyone has better success with a car cover? If so, what brand did you purchase? Thanks for your help Matt Milkevitch '77 Spitfire ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Subject: [Spit] Ideal PRM for cruise
Hello I am driving my Spitfire MK3 for the first time, and I have the 1296cc and no overdrive and was wandering what should be the ideal RPM for cruise. I remark that the engine was turning 3700 RPM at 90 Km, that seem to much for me, but I am no expert Have a nice day Paul-Ernest Each engine might have a different sweet spot dependant on how well the rotating bits are balanced. and/or how it is wearing. When I bought my car the engine had never been out of the car. It ran best at 4000 rpm. which was about 70 mph with the 3 rail non overdrive gearbox. My brother in law had a English Ford Granada with a V4 engine. It was horrible as it came up to 3000 rpm but above that it smoothed out nicely and ran like a top. I rebuilt my engine and had it balanced and fitted a J type overdrive with a single rail box. It's smooth at all rpms now. I rarely go above 80 thought because with all those dinosaurian SUV around who just can't see a littleSpit in the side mirrors ( do they ever look in them?) it worries my what they might do if I speed past them! [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Subject: [Spit] Re: (Spit) Hard Top
I have noticed on all of my Triumphs that a worn boot lid seal will cause exhaust fumes to enter the cabin when the roof is up. In my Stag, with a hardtop, I occasionally don't get the boot lid lock engaged and as soon as I hit about 40 mph you can smell it. The length of the exhaust does not seem to be a factor. Edward Hamer Petluma CA That's interesting Edward since I know my boot seal is knackered. I have a new one which I was holding off fitting until I got the car painted. Might give it a try. [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
[Spit] Factory Hardtop
My thanks to all the people who replied about fitting a head liner. Unfortunately the hardtop did not come with the bows but all the information I received will be very useful. One thing I have noticed with the hardtop fitted to the car and the door windows wound down is that I can exhaust fumes in the car. My exhaust is a sports exhaust system ( dual exhaust )purchased from Paddocks. It is exactly like the one shown on the silver spit in the latest edition of Triumph World. I'm thinking the the exhaust is not quite long enough ( on the sliver spit you can see that it doesn't extend past the rear bumper) and the aerodynamics with the hardtop on must suck exhaust gases around the car an in through the window. I haven't got the soft top fitted so I don't know whether this also has the same problem. I don't think the exhaust system has a leak under the car somewhere but it may have. This exhaust system looks great and sounds great. But it is really a shade too noisy with the top down and prevents you from hearing engine noises. This, for me, is a major disadvantage. [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
[Spit] Factory Hardtop
I have just purchased a factory hardtop for my MKIV. It fits fine but there is no head liner and it needs a complete restoration. Is any place that supplies head liners ? Where can I see what the original headliner looks like and how it is secured? If the head liner is NOS what do you suggest I do? [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Speedo gearing
The last 4 digits written on the face of the speedo dial after the makers part number is the number of times the speedo cable has to turn for the car to cover one mile. So the gears in the gearbox tail shaft or overdrive have to give the correct number of turns for the mph and odometer to read correctly. The gears in the gearbox have to be selected based on what differential ratio you are using, the gearbox or overdrive has no effect since the output shaft from the transmission is of course turning at the prop( drive ) shaft speed. On my MkIV no overdrive, 3.89 diff ratio, US Spitfire the speedo count was 1184. When I acquired a J type overdrive and single rail box from Spitfire grave yard in the UK I purchased the correct gears for the gearbox from Rimmers to be compatible with the 3.89 diff used on US Spitfires. When I got the car on the road the speedo was reading way too low. Knowing the speed that it should have been indicating from the technical info in the ROM relat! ing engine speed to road speed I realized I needed a speedo with a 1000 count. Since there are places in the US that will adjust the count of the speedo to the count you need I purchased a used Speedo off E Bay here in the US. When this speedo arrived I was astonished to see that its count was indeed 1000!. So I installed it and eveything is fine. Hence it would seem that at different points in the Spitfire build cycle speedos with different counts were used. So the first thing to do when you modify the diff ratio or tire/wheel size etc is to establish what count you need. This is easy to do. Take the car to a nice straight local street and disconnect the speedo cable and using a piece of wire wrap it around the end of the inner cable so it makes a little pointer like a finger on a clock dial. Put a chalk mark on the road directly under a rear wheel centerline . Get yourself a measuring tape and mark another line on the road say 100 yards up the road. Sit in the car and get someone to slowly push you along as you count the number of turns the little pointer makes. The guy pushing the car has to bring car to a standstill when the second mark is directly under the centerline of the wheel and you have to note the number of revolutions of the pointer plus the fraction of a turn when you stop. Since there are 176! 0 yards in a mile you can then work out the count required. A 1000 counts per mile is 56.8 counts for 100 yards for instance. Do it a couple fo times to make sure you get consistency and you are all set to get your speedo modified. Of course the gear in the speedo can only be adjusted to certain combinations for which the parts are available unless the guy doing it has the ability to make a gear with any tooth count or, if you are not bothered about the odometer reading correctly , he can adjust the metal plate which is dragged around by the rotating magnet inside the speedo to virtually any count you want - if he has the skill and knowledge that is. Otherwise he will make you a little gearbox which fits between the gearbox and the cable to get the correct count. [EMAIL PROTECTED] EarthLink Revolves Around You. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Rear hub puller
I have been catching up with the digest E mails since I have been on vacation and would like to comment on removing the rear hubs On the Spitfire and Stag the standard advice is not to attempt pulling the hub off unless you have the Churchill puller as it is possible to bend the hub flange. There was a comment recently on the Stag list about getting around this problem with a simple tool. When you think about this operation it's not a good idea to try to break the friction fit of the Morse taper by the use of a hub puller, Churchill or other , to slowly build up a force that is big enough to overcome the friction since this requires a huge force. It can be done of course with the Churchill puller since this has a strong flange that does not put a bending moment on the hub flange as simple puller drawers do. The friction fit is best released by applying a sharp impact to the shaft itself. This was the point made in the Stag E mail I read. The question was how to do this. If I understood the Stag E mail correctly it seems that the outer diameter of the threaded portion of the shaft ( where the big nut screws on) is smaller than the outer end of the Morse taper so that there is a bit of land on the shaft where the shaft diameter steps up to the size of the Morse taper just after the end of the threaded section. If one could apply a sharp blow to this land with the hub supported in a vise then the force needed to break the friction fit would be much less than that required if one used a steadily increasing force applied by the Churchill tool. This was the solution proposed in the E mail and the writer had used it with no problem. I didn't really fully understand just what the person did but it seems that he had fabricated a small piece of tube which had an inner diameter that just cleared the thread diameter and the outer tube diameter was the same as the Morse taper. He then screwed a nut on the shaft so it just lightly touched the end of the tube and given the nut a sharp blow to break the friction. I guess that if you use a nut which is a little loose on the threads you will not distort the threads as you strike it. I have never studied a Spitfire shaft, or a Stag for that matter, to confirm the presence of this land but I certainly the engineering premise behind this technique is sound. Did anyone else see this and could comment? Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Longflo air filter
I also bought a set of these for my HS2s since the K&N are , in my opinion, too expensive. What about replacing the foam with wire mesh like on the TR3/4 filters? [EMAIL PROTECTED] EarthLink Revolves Around You. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Experiences with my 1971 Spitfire Mk IV
When I bought my Mk IV mechanically is was in very good condition but I decided to do a pretty extensive mechanical overhaul with the main objectives being to install an Overdrive and get the engine as near as I could to Mk 3 spec.. I have a few comments that my be of interest Crank case vent. I replace the single Stromberg with two HS2 from a Mk 2 spit and an inlet manifold from a Mk 3. I connected the rocker cover vent to the PCV valve on the manifold and also ran a tee off to the carbon canister . So now the oil vapor is sucked into the inlet manifold and also the gas tank is under slight vacuum as per the original Mk IV set up Rocker shaft oiling I initially installed the extra line which roots oil from the engine oil gallery to the rockers. But I found that there was too much oil going to the shaft. This resulted in a puff of oil smoke when the engine started up because the excess oil is getting down the valve guides when the engine is stopped. The Spit doesn't have the little "O" rings on the valve stems to stop this which other cars do. If you are thinking of putting this line on to prevent the front of the rocker shaft being starved of oil then block the normal oil feed off. Distributor timing I had a battle to try to mimic the advance curve of a UK spec MK3. I bought 2 distributors off E Bay from Mk2 and 3 cars and eventually got a system that got close to the UK spec. The thing that puzzles me is that I could not get full advance on any of the distributors. I would have thought that as the springs weaken with age you should get to full advance at lower revs but this was not the case. None of the distributors was capable of giving the full advance that the ROM states. A finished up with a distributor from a Mk 2 on which I fitted a vacuum advance from a Mk 3. I'm a little concerned about pre detonation since I can only get 91 octane and I don't know whether these octane boosters I use really does any good. Alternator I fitted a DelCo 65 amp alternator to get away from having to pay a high price for a recon Lucas unit. It is OK but it doesn't drop out of regulation at idle. This means that the idle speed is effected by the electrical load, i.e head light on or off. On modern cars the computer controls the idle speed irrespective of alternator load but of course this is not the case on the Spit. It's not a great problem but it might better to use a lower output alternator which will drop out at idle. Exhaust system I fitted a Double S exhaust system ( two pipes out the back) and it sounds great but it is a little to noisy and I can't hear the engine when the soft top is down... which is always the case as I haven;t got a soft top. Bear this is mind if you are thinking of going this route. Overdrive. You have to get one of these. I have now a single rail box with a J type overdrive. I can keep up with the traffic on the free way easy, here in South California that means 75 to 80 mph, without exceeding 4000 rpm. But the problem is the car is so damn small that the SUV hulks just don't see me. When tip I have is that if you are going this route you need to fit a speedo from a 1500. The 1500 speedo turns 1000 per mile whereas the Mk IV speed turns 1184. I, for one, didn't realize that the 1500 had a different count speedo Stuart Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego Ca Triumph TR8, Stag and Spitfire Mk IV Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: It is happening again Triumphest 2005
I am a member of theTriumph Sports Car Club of San Diego that is running Triumphest 2005 but I am not on the organizing committee. I just want to let everyone know that because there were several people who, like Joe, wanted an Autocross the committee, having originally decided not to run one, decided to go ahead and do so. However I was at a club meeting last week and the committee had discovered that the cost of insurance was so prohibitive that it was impossible for the club to proceed with a stand alone event. There was no intention to deceive anyone; but maybe you could say that the cost should have been looked into before making the announcement. I understand that the committee will probably subsidize the cost of entering the SCCA event for people who have signed up to come to Triumphest and want to participate in the Autocross. Stuart Greenwood [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Diego Ca Triumph TR8, Stag and Spitfire Mk IV > Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 17:58:33 -0700 > From: "Joe Curry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: It is happening again > > Triumphest is less than a month away. I was looking forward to seeing > if anything has changed from last year's Tahoe event where the Spitfires > and GT6's were soundly snubbed. > > > > Well, folks it looks like this year's event in San Diego will be more of > the same. > > > > If you go to the Triumphest home page at the link below, you will find > their logo for this year's event. > > > > http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/sandiegotriumph/tfesthome.htm > > > > Look at the drawings of the 4 cars and see if you can see a Spitfire or > GT6 included! > > > > If that is a precursor of things to come, I think this might be my last > Triumphest event, particularly in light of the shady way that I was > coaxed into attending this year's event. > > > > After I proclaimed that I would not come because there wwould not (for > the second time in a row) be an autocross at the San Diego event, they > later came back and stated that they had reconsidered and were in fact > going to have one. Based on that, I sent in my registration and > reserved a hotel room. > > > > Today, I got an update trying to sell the autocross as "Running with the > big boys"! What it amounts to is they are passing on the autocross and > letting people who want to run an autocross go to the already scheduled > San Diego Region of the SCCA monthly event which is going to be held at > Qualcomm stadium on Saturday, not Friday as originally announced. > > > > Bad move guys. It is this type of subversive planning that sours people > on your events. > > > > Regards, > > Joe Curry *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
