Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread Keith Addison
Costs zippo for raw cut and dried tobacco here, about US$2 per kilogram.

I tried the mix of one handful of this to one gallon of water and let sit
for 4 hours, added a little sunlight detergent and sprayed lightly on some
plants last night, this morning there is no sign of any side effects on the
plant and also no sign of them nibblers that were eating the palms. (easy to
grow palms here, very very hard to grow grapes). If by days end still no
detrimental signs on the palms then will try a little on the grape vines. At
the rate I am going 1 Kg will make about 18 gallons of the bug runner. The
initial lot was a very light yellowish color so last night I mixed more and
over night it has gone to a very dark brown. I think I can dilute it by
about 1:1 to bring it back to what it was yesturday which then means by
leaving it standing for more than 12 hours I can double the 18 gallons per
kg. All up is then less than US$3 for 36 gallons of grub off or grub gone.

How many dollars it costs per gallon is hardly the point.

Tobacco was outlawed before DDT??? Could this be due to US
Commercial/Industrial interests and not the fault of the tobacco. Any one
can grow tobacco but not every one can make DDT and pesticides. More
information/discussion would be a help here

Not really. Unless you think organic pesticides are useful, and I'm 
not the only one trying to tell you that pesticides are useless, 
whether organic or not. The badge of the amateur.

Learn how to make fertile soil that's capable of growing healthy 
plants that don't need pesticides.

If you want to know more about organic pesticides there's plenty of 
information available on using nicotine, derris, rotenone, pyrethrum, 
quassia, sulphur, bordeaux mixture, potassium permanganate, soft soap 
and FA soap, and so on and on, but it's just another blind alley.

Best

Keith


Doug

From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


  I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
  that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really work
  good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
  you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and said
  that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the
  first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he said
  was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as
  anything else if it is not used responsibly.
 
  Jim
 
  Keith Addison wrote:
 
  Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and
  shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some
  soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got
  sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
  
  Summary.
  1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
  2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
  3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
  4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.
  
  Doug
  
  
  
  Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat
  the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.
  
  Best
  
  Keith
  
  
  
  
  - Original Message -
  From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
  To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
  
  Jim,
  
  Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a
  gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and
  then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is
  absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't
  care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I
  have.  Works great.
  
  Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts
  that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on
  his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for
  a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and
  was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.
  
  fred
  
  On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  Robert,
  I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
  lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
  hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
  good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
  whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
  think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
  and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
  screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
  suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread lres1
Costs zippo for raw cut and dried tobacco here, about US$2 per kilogram.

I tried the mix of one handful of this to one gallon of water and let sit
for 4 hours, added a little sunlight detergent and sprayed lightly on some
plants last night, this morning there is no sign of any side effects on the
plant and also no sign of them nibblers that were eating the palms. (easy to
grow palms here, very very hard to grow grapes). If by days end still no
detrimental signs on the palms then will try a little on the grape vines. At
the rate I am going 1 Kg will make about 18 gallons of the bug runner. The
initial lot was a very light yellowish color so last night I mixed more and
over night it has gone to a very dark brown. I think I can dilute it by
about 1:1 to bring it back to what it was yesturday which then means by
leaving it standing for more than 12 hours I can double the 18 gallons per
kg. All up is then less than US$3 for 36 gallons of grub off or grub gone.

Tobacco was outlawed before DDT??? Could this be due to US
Commercial/Industrial interests and not the fault of the tobacco. Any one
can grow tobacco but not every one can make DDT and pesticides. More
information/discussion would be a help here

Doug

From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
 that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really work
 good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
 you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and said
 that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the
 first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he said
 was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as
 anything else if it is not used responsibly.

 Jim

 Keith Addison wrote:

 Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and
 shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some
 soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got
 sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
 
 Summary.
 1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
 2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
 3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
 4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.
 
 Doug
 
 
 
 Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat
 the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.
 
 Best
 
 Keith
 
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
 To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
 
 Jim,
 
 Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a
 gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and
 then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is
 absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't
 care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I
 have.  Works great.
 
 Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts
 that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on
 his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for
 a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and
 was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.
 
 fred
 
 On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Robert,
 I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
 lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
 hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
 good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
 whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
 think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
 and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
 screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
 suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
 the single point missing everything else.
 Jim
 
 robert and benita rabello wrote:
 
 
 
 Chris Lloyd wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got
caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked
 
 
 good, smelt
 
 
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start
adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got
 
 
 washed out of it
 
 
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 
I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread lres1
Keith,
Thanks for the help. So correct it is me interfering with my plant
intrusions.

The problem here is not with the grass, the trees or what is already here.
The problem is trying to grow what is not meant to be here. Tried gardens in
some hot tropical climates that turned into giant ant beds, the ants are
there to do what worms would normally assist. Reality says I should not try
and grow grapes where they don't want to grow or are a very weak and thus a
susceptible plant to bugs etc due to location/climate. However, I like my
grape vines, am pleased the bugs are on the out, and for the first time have
got vines growing where they shouldn't be. At least there is no worries in
them spreading and taking over the landscape such as Gorse introduced to NZ
and other such growths. I figure my vines cover a small area. The rest of
the plant life, other than the Norfolk pines, are native to here, all but,
and thus are resistant enough to keep in good health without the use of
pesticides.

Life is one whole learning cycle thus we are all amateurs. 300 + years ago
it was possible to read all books printed in the English Language, today
this is an impossibility. No one has read all, no one has learnt all, thus
we are in reality all amateurs, such is the fun of living. Asked about all
my
many and varied interests and work, to me it is all a side line, life is the
real issue and what all the rest compiled enables me to make of it. An
amateur I am very proud to be it assures I have more goals to attain in
this world. Are we here to attain the answers or the questions?

My thanks to all.

Doug

- Original Message - 
From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Costs zippo for raw cut and dried tobacco here, about US$2 per kilogram.
 
 I tried the mix of one handful of this to one gallon of water and let sit
 for 4 hours, added a little sunlight detergent and sprayed lightly on
some
 plants last night, this morning there is no sign of any side effects on
the
 plant and also no sign of them nibblers that were eating the palms. (easy
to
 grow palms here, very very hard to grow grapes). If by days end still no
 detrimental signs on the palms then will try a little on the grape vines.
At
 the rate I am going 1 Kg will make about 18 gallons of the bug runner.
The
 initial lot was a very light yellowish color so last night I mixed more
and
 over night it has gone to a very dark brown. I think I can dilute it by
 about 1:1 to bring it back to what it was yesturday which then means by
 leaving it standing for more than 12 hours I can double the 18 gallons
per
 kg. All up is then less than US$3 for 36 gallons of grub off or grub
gone.

 How many dollars it costs per gallon is hardly the point.

 Tobacco was outlawed before DDT??? Could this be due to US
 Commercial/Industrial interests and not the fault of the tobacco. Any
one
 can grow tobacco but not every one can make DDT and pesticides. More
 information/discussion would be a help here

 Not really. Unless you think organic pesticides are useful, and I'm
 not the only one trying to tell you that pesticides are useless,
 whether organic or not. The badge of the amateur.

 Learn how to make fertile soil that's capable of growing healthy
 plants that don't need pesticides.

 If you want to know more about organic pesticides there's plenty of
 information available on using nicotine, derris, rotenone, pyrethrum,
 quassia, sulphur, bordeaux mixture, potassium permanganate, soft soap
 and FA soap, and so on and on, but it's just another blind alley.

 Best

 Keith


 Doug
 
 From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:33 AM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
 
 
   I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
   that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really
work
   good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
   you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and
said
   that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the
   first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he
said
   was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as
   anything else if it is not used responsibly.
  
   Jim
  
   Keith Addison wrote:
  
   Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and
   shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some
   soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got
   sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
   
   Summary.
   1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
   2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
   3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
   4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.
   
   Doug
   
   
   
   Nicotine

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread Joe Street
This may work for grapes but keep it the hell away from tomato plants or 
you'll find out what the tobaco mosaic virus is!

Joe

JJJN wrote:

 I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened 
 that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really work 
 good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch 
 you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and said 
 that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the 
 first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he said 
 was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as 
 anything else if it is not used responsibly.
 
 Jim
 
 Keith Addison wrote:
 
 
Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and 
shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some 
soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got 
sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.

Doug
   


Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


 


- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

Jim,

Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a 
gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and 
then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is 
absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't 
care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I 
have.  Works great.

Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts 
that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on 
his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for 
a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and 
was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.

fred

On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:

   


Chris Lloyd wrote:



 


Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked 
   


good, smelt
   


good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got 
   


washed out of it
   


but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris




   


  I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
the past.


robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
 



___
Biofuel mailing list
Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org

Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages):
http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/

 

 
 
 ___
 Biofuel mailing list
 Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org
 
 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
 Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages):
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread Mark Manchester
True!  Even just smoking and then touching tomato plants will give  
them this leaf-rotting virus.  Very hard on French-Canadians.
Jesse
On Jun 21, 2006, at 9:32 AM, Joe Street wrote:

 This may work for grapes but keep it the hell away from tomato  
 plants or
 you'll find out what the tobaco mosaic virus is!

 Joe

 JJJN wrote:

 I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
 that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really  
 work
 good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
 you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed  
 and said
 that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the
 first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what  
 he said
 was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as
 anything else if it is not used responsibly.

 Jim

 Keith Addison wrote:


 Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines  
 and
 shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some
 soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got
 sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

 Summary.
 1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
 2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
 3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
 4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.

 Doug



 Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat
 the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

 Best

 Keith





 - Original Message -
 From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
 To:  
 mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

 Jim,

 Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a
 gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and
 then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is
 absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't
 care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I
 have.  Works great.

 Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts
 that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on
 his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that  
 for
 a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco  
 and
 was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.

 fred

 On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]  
 wrote:

 Robert,
 I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with  
 one cup
 lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle  
 that you
 hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea  
 sounded
 good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad  
 guys
 whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do  
 you
 think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure  
 killed them
 and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the  
 product
 screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about  
 bugs.  I
 suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that  
 was to
 the single point missing everything else.
 Jim

 robert and benita rabello wrote:




 Chris Lloyd wrote:






 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I  
 got caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in.  
 It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked



 good, smelt



 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to  
 start adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got



 washed out of it



 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris







  I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with  
 heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since  
 then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though  
 I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than  
 they have in
 the past.


 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/ 
 rabello/




 ___
 Biofuel mailing list
 Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/ 
 biofuel_sustainablelists.org

 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

 Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives  
 (50,000 messages):
 http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/





 ___
 Biofuel mailing list
 Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 http://sustainablelists.org

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread lres1
Joe

No worries only my grape vines, everything else seems to be very hardy and
strong with good resistance. Not even the coconuts have the yellowing,
same with the darn beetle nut. Thanks for the help will keep in mind but my
vines I have tried for many years to grow 14 + years in Aus and 17 + here
and now that I have some don't want them eaten. Not worried if they fruit or
not, just good to see the vines here as I walk under them to my office
several times each day.

Doug
- Original Message - 
From: Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 This may work for grapes but keep it the hell away from tomato plants or
 you'll find out what the tobaco mosaic virus is!

 Joe

 JJJN wrote:

  I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
  that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really work
  good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
  you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and said
  that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the
  first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he said
  was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as
  anything else if it is not used responsibly.
 
  Jim
 
  Keith Addison wrote:
 
 
 Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and
 shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some
 soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got
 sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
 
 Summary.
 1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
 2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
 3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
 4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.
 
 Doug
 
 
 
 Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat
 the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.
 
 Best
 
 Keith
 
 
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
 To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
 
 Jim,
 
 Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a
 gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and
 then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is
 absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't
 care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I
 have.  Works great.
 
 Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts
 that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on
 his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for
 a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and
 was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.
 
 fred
 
 On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Robert,
 I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one
cup
 lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
 hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
 good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
 whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
 think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
 and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
 screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
 suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
 the single point missing everything else.
 Jim
 
 robert and benita rabello wrote:
 
 
 
 
 Chris Lloyd wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got
caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked
 
 
 
 good, smelt
 
 
 
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start
adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got
 
 
 
 washed out of it
 
 
 
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have
in
 the past.
 
 
 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca
 
 Ranger Supercharger Project Page

http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
 
 
 
 
 ___
 Biofuel

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-21 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Doug

Keith,
Thanks for the help. So correct it is me interfering with my plant
intrusions.

The problem here is not with the grass, the trees or what is already here.
The problem is trying to grow what is not meant to be here. Tried gardens in
some hot tropical climates that turned into giant ant beds, the ants are
there to do what worms would normally assist. Reality says I should not try
and grow grapes where they don't want to grow or are a very weak and thus a
susceptible plant to bugs etc due to location/climate. However, I like my
grape vines, am pleased the bugs are on the out, and for the first time have
got vines growing where they shouldn't be. At least there is no worries in
them spreading and taking over the landscape such as Gorse introduced to NZ
and other such growths. I figure my vines cover a small area.

I didn't realise you're growing them just for some shade at the 
office entrance.

The rest of
the plant life, other than the Norfolk pines, are native to here, all but,
and thus are resistant enough to keep in good health without the use of
pesticides.

That depends on the soil as much as anything.

Life is one whole learning cycle thus we are all amateurs.

I agree, in that sense it's the opposite of expert. But in the 
sense it was quoted it was the opposite of professional - a sneer 
at so-called professional farmers who spray everything all the time, 
because they truly are clueless.

300 + years ago
it was possible to read all books printed in the English Language, today
this is an impossibility.

And yet so much knowledge has been and is being lost, and as 
individuals we are generally much less skilful today than we were a 
couple of generations ago, and, many of us, much more dependent.

No one has read all, no one has learnt all, thus
we are in reality all amateurs,

If you take the reading away (not the only kind of knowledge) that 
was the case 300 years ago too.

such is the fun of living.

Indeed.

Asked about all
my
many and varied interests and work, to me it is all a side line, life is the
real issue and what all the rest compiled enables me to make of it. An
amateur I am very proud to be it assures I have more goals to attain in
this world. Are we here to attain the answers or the questions?

Why choose? I can't imagine a forum that only did one but not the other.

Best

Keith


My thanks to all.

Doug

- Original Message -
From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


  Costs zippo for raw cut and dried tobacco here, about US$2 per kilogram.
  
  I tried the mix of one handful of this to one gallon of water and let sit
  for 4 hours, added a little sunlight detergent and sprayed lightly on
some
  plants last night, this morning there is no sign of any side effects on
the
  plant and also no sign of them nibblers that were eating the palms. (easy
to
  grow palms here, very very hard to grow grapes). If by days end still no
  detrimental signs on the palms then will try a little on the grape vines.
At
  the rate I am going 1 Kg will make about 18 gallons of the bug runner.
The
  initial lot was a very light yellowish color so last night I mixed more
and
  over night it has gone to a very dark brown. I think I can dilute it by
  about 1:1 to bring it back to what it was yesturday which then means by
  leaving it standing for more than 12 hours I can double the 18 gallons
per
  kg. All up is then less than US$3 for 36 gallons of grub off or grub
gone.
 
  How many dollars it costs per gallon is hardly the point.
 
  Tobacco was outlawed before DDT??? Could this be due to US
  Commercial/Industrial interests and not the fault of the tobacco. Any
one
  can grow tobacco but not every one can make DDT and pesticides. More
  information/discussion would be a help here
 
  Not really. Unless you think organic pesticides are useful, and I'm
  not the only one trying to tell you that pesticides are useless,
  whether organic or not. The badge of the amateur.
 
  Learn how to make fertile soil that's capable of growing healthy
  plants that don't need pesticides.
 
  If you want to know more about organic pesticides there's plenty of
  information available on using nicotine, derris, rotenone, pyrethrum,
  quassia, sulphur, bordeaux mixture, potassium permanganate, soft soap
  and FA soap, and so on and on, but it's just another blind alley.
 
  Best
 
  Keith
 
 
  Doug
  
  From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
  
  
I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened
that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really
work
good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch
you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and
said
that nicotine

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-20 Thread JJJN
I was going to mix some of this up about 7 years ago, It so happened 
that I asked a farmer about it and he told me that it would really work 
good but he also said in a joking way don't let the Government catch 
you.  I took the bait and said why its all natural?  He laughed and said 
that nicotine was the first commercial pesticide and it was also the 
first one ever banned in the US.  I don't have any proof if what he said 
was true but the point is natural / organic stuff can be as bad as 
anything else if it is not used responsibly.

Jim

Keith Addison wrote:

Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and 
shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some 
soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got 
sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.

Doug



Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


  

- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

Jim,

Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a 
gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and 
then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is 
absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't 
care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I 
have.  Works great.

Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts 
that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on 
his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for 
a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and 
was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.

fred

On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:



Chris Lloyd wrote:



  

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked 


good, smelt


good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got 


washed out of it


but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris






   I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
the past.


robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
  



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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1
Are we lucky or what?

The cost of compost is quite cheap here and as such is not sterilized or
cooked just mixed and left for the worms and nature with some mechanical
help. Good compost most times.

Have used some local and some of my own compost to grow grape vines, 8
vines, of different sorts. The vines are now doing extremely well and have
formed a shade over a walk way. The shade in the last few days has been
decreasing through voluntary addition of some real fat bugs of the multi
legged type nibbling away at my prized grape vines. Never thought that grape
vines would grow here. High humidity, very hot and very wet in the wet
season and very dry in the dry season. However for some reason this is my
first spot of luck with growing grape vines as shade. What such a benefit if
by some freak twist the vines might produce some grapes this will be the
ultimate in my many years of grape sagas. Never ever eaten one of my own
home grown grapes as never seem to be able to have grown them before. I
would like to get rid of the bugs, like compost them or some such. Any one
know of a non chemical way of dislodging such unwelcome lodgers/habitants or
encouraging them to migrate/immigrate to other sources of fattening away
from my precious grape vines?

My Norfolk pines are doing real well on local compost as are many other
plants/trees.

Have had zero luck at this level with radiata pine no matter what soils, I
think this is more due to the heat and humidity changes.

Doug

- Original Message - 
From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 5:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Chris Lloyd wrote:

 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good,
smelt
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start
adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of
it
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 

 I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
 the past.


 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


 ___
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Chris Lloyd
 If you get rotted horse manure next year (rotted being a word that
covers a host of sins) use it to make compost.

We used to have a nice local farmer who used straw to bed the horses down in 
and he just piled the old bedding up in one long 25 ton heap so the old end 
was about 5 years old. Great for growing tomatoes and full of tasty rabbits 
but this winter the district council said it was an  environmental hazard 
because it was only 50 yards from the highway and had to be cleared away. It 
is getting bloody silly here in the UK these days.   Chris. 


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Steve Racz
I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a mulching 
mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its 
tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I 
lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply - 
but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors 
complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the leaves 
from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or 
whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a 
spreader and on it went on top of the grass.

Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely balanced 
in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never overapply. 
There are no worries from any runoff.

Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot - the 
heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the 
organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce heat 
as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.

There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to 
compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.

If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer project: 
sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge 
letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch and 
then watch what happens for the rest of the season!

Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made 
compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.

Steve




On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really just
an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn probabily
would look just fine to me too.DB
- Original Message -
From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

 JJJN wrote:
Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the
 mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at
 the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn
 professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
 garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
 grass, he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
 tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and
 healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
 replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
 mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first
 bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a
 lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep
 the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property
 trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn
 maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already
 think I'm weird), please let me know.

 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Fred Finch
Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. Strain the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this on the roses that I have. Works great.
Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them was priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.
fredOn 6/18/06, JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Robert,I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.Jimrobert and benita rabello wrote:Chris Lloyd wrote:Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year. ChrisI've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
kill weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, which isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake once, and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have inthe past.robert luis rabelloThe Edge of JusticeAdventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1



Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my 
precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine. That is used 
tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? 
Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/ 1 gallon of water/juice extracted from 
cigarette butts.
2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally used for 
dishes.
3/Mix, strainand spray on my 
grape vine.
4/ Do not do this in the kitchen with other 
cooks present.

Doug 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Fred 
  Finch 
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org 
  
  Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off 
  topic
  Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing 
  tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. Strain 
  the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the 
  buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they 
  die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this 
  on the roses that I have. Works great. Another thing that I have 
  done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He thinks 
  I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them was 
  priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. Worked as 
  well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but did the 
  trick just the same. fred
  On 6/18/06, JJJN 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  wrote: 
  Robert,I 
was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one 
cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that 
youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the 
idea sounded good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills 
the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? 
What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and 
it sure killed themand quick, but again that would not be the entire 
goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew 
more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if you can 
apply it in a way that was tothe single point missing everything 
else.Jimrobert and benita rabello wrote:Chris Lloyd 
wrote:Some compost has virtually no 
ability to fertilise anything, I got caught out this year with 
the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to be 
composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, 
smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I had 
to start adding chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the 
nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted horse 
manure next year. 
ChrisI've 
found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to kill 
weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, which 
isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake once, 
and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My trees are 
happier (though I'm STILL have insect and fruit problems) and look 
far more lush than they have inthe 
past.robert luis rabello"The Edge of 
Justice"Adventure for Your Mind 
http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project 
Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___ 
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1
Maybe out of line/subject here.

Would like to know where to find the Pros and Cons about Silage as an animal
feed in comparison to dry hay and non processed fodder.

Seems some silage makes for a bad smell once the heap is opened, not savory
at all, and yet cows will eat it okay. How does this compare with dry hay,
licks and molasses. Is this a worm free base? Seems to be full of rotten
grass and nothing but.

As below I can agree for sure some composting materials will reach 80 + Deg
C especially in dry ground pit decomposition, this in turn is used to kill
off some of the bad bugs like parasites and such in some waste disposal
systems where bacterial action causes the heat. Example, the snail shell
type toilets constructed as pit toilets in some parts were designed not only
for the bacteria to break down the occupying mass but was also used to kill
the mosquitoes in the down draft caused by the chimney height through the
long drop hole. (the mosquitoes were killed in the heat of the chimney as it
was blocked with a mosquito screen stopping the poor mozzy from escaping the
cooking.
Doug

- Original Message - 
From: Steve Racz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a
mulching
 mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its
 tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I
 lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply -
 but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors
 complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the
leaves
 from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or
 whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a
 spreader and on it went on top of the grass.

 Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely
balanced
 in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never
overapply.
 There are no worries from any runoff.

 Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot -
the
 heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the
 organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce
heat
 as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.

 There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to
 compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.

 If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer
project:
 sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge
 letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch
and
 then watch what happens for the rest of the season!

 Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made
 compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.

 Steve




 On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
 you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
 lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
 rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
 weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
 needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really
just
 an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn
probabily
 would look just fine to me too.DB
 - Original Message -
 From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

  JJJN wrote:
 Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
 encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
 humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
 it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
 killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
 really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
 
 I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the
  mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at
  the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn
  professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
  garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
  grass, he said.
 
 I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
  tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and
  healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
  replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.
 
 It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
  mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread robert and benita rabello




lres1 wrote:

  
  
  
  Will this kill the bugs busy eating
away my precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine.
That is used tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it
from a hand sprayer? Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent
even.
  
  Summary.
  1/ 1 gallon of water/juice
extracted from cigarette butts.
  2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally
used for dishes.
  3/Mix, strainand spray on my
grape vine.
  4/ Do not do this in the kitchen
with other cooks present.
  
  Doug 


	We have a plant nursery nearby that is run by an old German fellow.  He sprays his trees with soap, which he says kills the bugs and prevents deer from eating his trees.  I tried this technique and it works, BUT, care must be taken because the soap dries out the tree leaves.

	He said to be sure to use soap, not detergent, and he didn't say anything about ammonia.  However, I don't see how ammonia would hurt anything.


robert luis rabello
"The Edge of Justice"
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Doug

Maybe out of line/subject here.

Why so?

Would like to know where to find the Pros and Cons about Silage as an animal
feed in comparison to dry hay and non processed fodder.

Seems some silage makes for a bad smell once the heap is opened, not savory
at all, and yet cows will eat it okay. How does this compare with dry hay,
licks and molasses. Is this a worm free base? Seems to be full of rotten
grass and nothing but.

It's not rotten, it's fermented. It's usually better feeding value 
than hay, but that's only because hay is usually poorly made, much of 
the value is lost in the drying.

For sound information on this, see Newman Turner (fell text online):
Fertility Farming by Newman Turner
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library.html#turner1

More information here:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/
Soil and Health Library
Agriculture Library
Sykes, Friend. Humus and the Farmer. London: Faber and Faber Limited, 1946

These two books should answer your questions fully.

Actually silage vs hay is not an either/or, they're complementary, use both.

More resources here:
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_pasture.html
Pasture for small farmers: Journey to Forever

As below I can agree for sure some composting materials will reach 80 + Deg
C especially in dry ground pit decomposition, this in turn is used to kill
off some of the bad bugs like parasites and such in some waste disposal
systems where bacterial action causes the heat.

Any thermophilic compost will kill parasites, as long as it spends 
some time above 55 deg C or so, and as long as all of it goes through 
that heat process (in other words turn it so what was at the edges 
gets heated up the second time). Hotter is better but not essential - 
it won't improve the product much, if at all, just the speed of 
breakdown. We've already bmn through this recently, here:
Re: [Biofuel] Crude Glycerin and Hot Compost
http://snipurl.com/rymc

Best

Keith


Example, the snail shell
type toilets constructed as pit toilets in some parts were designed not only
for the bacteria to break down the occupying mass but was also used to kill
the mosquitoes in the down draft caused by the chimney height through the
long drop hole. (the mosquitoes were killed in the heat of the chimney as it
was blocked with a mosquito screen stopping the poor mozzy from escaping the
cooking.
Doug

- Original Message -
From: Steve Racz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


  I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a
mulching
  mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its
  tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I
  lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply -
  but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors
  complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the
leaves
  from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or
  whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a
  spreader and on it went on top of the grass.
 
  Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely
balanced
  in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never
overapply.
  There are no worries from any runoff.
 
  Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot -
the
  heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the
  organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce
heat
  as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.
 
  There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to
  compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.
 
  If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer
project:
  sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge
  letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch
and
  then watch what happens for the rest of the season!
 
  Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made
  compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.
 
  Steve
 
 
 
 
  On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
  you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
  lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
  rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
  weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
  needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really
just
  an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn
probabily
  would look just fine to me too.DB
  - Original Message -
  From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Sunday, June

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Keith Addison
Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and 
shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some 
soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got 
sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.

Doug

Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

Jim,

Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a 
gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and 
then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is 
absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't 
care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I 
have.  Works great.

Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts 
that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on 
his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for 
a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and 
was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.

fred

On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:

 Chris Lloyd wrote:
 
 
 
 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked 
good, smelt
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got 
washed out of it
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
 the past.
 
 
 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca
 
 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread robert and benita rabello
Keith Addison wrote:

Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


  

This is why the whole  pest management approach is fundamentally 
flawed.  Plants should be able to tolerate mild infestation, and a 
system in balance should provide predators to keep the overall pest 
numbers down.  I don't want to kill the wasps and ladybeetles that feed 
on the aphids infesting my plum trees.  I want the trees healthy enough 
to deal with insect pests on their own.

We have fruit on our plum trees for the first time!  (Yeah!)  But 
the ONE pear on our pear tree has fallen off, and the cherry tree has 
produced two cherries this year, one of which also fell off.  The pink 
dogwood I planted for my sweetheart in our front yard looks far 
healthier than ever, and there's a ring of very dark grass around its 
drip line.  That grass sends its side roots into the compost I've put 
beneath the dogwood tree, and as a result, has become the best looking 
grass on my property!

My saintly mother-in-law came over for a visit yesterday and 
commented on how good our yard is looking.  I haven't sprayed any of our 
trees this year because I want to see how well compost treatment works 
to strengthen them.  She thinks we've learned a lot about soil 
remediation, and the evidence can be seen in vigorous growth and blossoming.

Now, if only I could make enough compost to cover the entire lawn . . .

robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Thomas Kelly
Jim,
 Robert and Keith had a great exchange earlier in the year about 
gardening and composting. It really got me going. I've gone back to 
vegetables/fruits. Flowers had been taking over.
 A neighbor dropped off a load of horse manure just yesterday and 
promised another today. I was out early and prepared a big drum of manure 
tea. The plants love it.
Have no fear about harvesting those Jerusalem artichokes. I've dug up 
whole sections of ground where they grew. I pulled out every tubers I could 
find. A week or two later they were back, and the following year, in full 
force. It was as if I have only thinned them out.
Off topic...???  Talk about soil around here and you get a response, 
huh?
   Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Hi Thomas,
 Thanks, I will start putting compost on soon.  Every thing is going well
 except my gourds, they dont seem to like this latitude or something.  My
 jeruselum artichokes are going crazy they are already 4-5 feet tall.  I
 hope we get a late summer as last year they blossomed - a rare thing
 here.  The tubers are exceptional eating.  I went containers with
 Tomatoes and Peppers to save space.  I am just amazed at how responsive
 plants are to real soil.  How are your gardening ventures doing?

 Jim

 Thomas Kelly wrote:

Jim,
 My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or
another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that 
have
been damaged
(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
 I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2 hardware cloth and a 
 smaller
one w. 1/4  hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger
one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried siftings 
with
the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting
plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too
valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
 How's the garden coming?
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BIO Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic




Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

Jim

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 messages):
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Doug Turner



Hi 
Doug,

I've 
used amixture of soap and isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) with good 
results. This mixture is a contact poison that only works while wet. 
That means you actually have to get the spray on to the beasties and repeated 
applications are usually necessary.I would suggest is that you 
reduce the liquid soap to about 1 to 2 tbsp (15 - 30ml) and add 1 cup 
ofalcohol - don't know if methanol will work. The alcohol helps to 
get rid of the hard bodied bugs;you know, the ones that work out 
regularly. Good Luck

 Doug

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  lres1Sent: June 19, 2006 9:27 AMTo: 
  Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgSubject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question 
  off topic
  Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my 
  precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine. That is used 
  tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? 
  Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
  
  Summary.
  1/ 1 gallon of water/juice extracted from 
  cigarette butts.
  2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally used for 
  dishes.
  3/Mix, strainand spray on my 
  grape vine.
  4/ Do not do this in the kitchen with other 
  cooks present.
  
  Doug 
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Fred 
Finch 
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org 

Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 
PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question 
off topic
Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing 
tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. 
Strain the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the 
buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they 
die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this 
on the roses that I have. Works great. Another thing that I 
have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He 
thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them 
was priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. 
Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but 
did the trick just the same. fred
On 6/18/06, JJJN 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote: 
Robert,I 
  was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one 
  cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that 
  youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the 
  idea sounded good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills 
  the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? 
  What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers 
  and it sure killed themand quick, but again that would not be the 
  entire goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I 
  knew more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if 
  you can apply it in a way that was tothe single point missing 
  everything else.Jimrobert and benita rabello 
  wrote:Chris Lloyd 
  wrote:Some compost has virtually no 
  ability to fertilise anything, I got caught out this year with 
  the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to 
  be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, 
  smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I 
  had to start adding chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps 
  the nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted 
  horse manure next year. 
  ChrisI've 
  found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
  kill weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, 
  which isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake 
  once, and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My 
  trees are happier (though I'm STILL have insect and fruit 
  problems) and look far more lush than they have inthe 
  past.robert luis rabello"The Edge of 
  Justice"Adventure for Your Mind 
  http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project 
  Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___ 
  Biofuel mailing listBiofuel@sustainablelists.orghttp://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org 
  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.htmlSearch 
  the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages): 
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  the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages): 
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread Thomas Kelly
Jim,
 My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or 
another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that have 
been damaged
(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
 I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2 hardware cloth and a smaller 
one w. 1/4  hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger 
one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried siftings with 
the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting 
plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too 
valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
 How's the garden coming?
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BIO Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
 encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
 humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
 it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
 killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
 really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

 Jim

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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread robert and benita rabello
JJJN wrote:

Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been 
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and  
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep 
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed 
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it 
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
  


I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the 
mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at 
the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn 
professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with 
garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than 
grass, he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost 
tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and 
healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of 
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture 
mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first 
bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a 
lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep 
the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property 
trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn 
maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already 
think I'm weird), please let me know.

robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread DB
you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your 
lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide 
rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only 
weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn 
needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really just 
an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn probabily 
would look just fine to me too.DB
- Original Message - 
From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 JJJN wrote:

Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?



I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the
 mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at
 the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn
 professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
 garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
 grass, he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
 tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and
 healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
 replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
 mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first
 bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a
 lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep
 the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property
 trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn
 maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already
 think I'm weird), please let me know.

 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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 messages):
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread Keith Addison
This is a little out of date and I don't really agree with some of 
it, but it might help. Forget about fertilisers (like bloodmeal, 
bonemeal etc), whether organic or not, as Robert says it's just 
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use 
sifted compost and compost tea.

HTH.

Best

Keith



The Organic Lawn

As in all fields of organic growing, the basic recipe for a 
successful organic lawn is to create conditions which encourage 
healthy growth of the required plant - in this case grass. While it 
would be difficult to forget to tend the vegetables or the fruit, for 
example, it is easy to neglect a lawn, because it is always there! 
Grass is a fairly tough plant but it will only take a certain amount 
of mal-treatment before vigour and growth is reduced, leaving the way 
open for weeds to invade, and allowing pest and disease to become a 
problem. Regular and timely attention will save time and trouble in 
the long term.

Some gardeners who would not dream of using chemicals on the 
vegetable plot still use fertilisers and/or weedkillers on the lawn, 
either because they think it saves so much effort or because they 
don't think it possible to maintain a lawn organically. An organic 
lawn may require a change of attitude but it is quite possible and 
should not require a great deal of extra work; chemicals can 
sometimes provide a short term solution to a problem but in no way 
replace good care and maintenance,

Another justification for using chemicals might be that the lawn is 
such a small area of land that these couldn't cause much harm to the 
environment. But, it has been estimated that there are around 90,000 
hectares (222,300 acres) of lawn in the U.K. - so if every gardener 
uses chemicals on their lawn this can add up to a considerable 
amount. This figure also shows the importance of the garden for 
wildlife. As our countryside diminishes and becomes more polluted, so 
the value of the backgarden, especially an organic garden, grows.

Are you asking too much of your lawn?

Before you start to develop a positive lawn care programme, take a 
good look at your lawn and ask yourself if you are demanding too much 
of it. Are you expecting it to grow well on a poorly drained site, or 
under trees? Are you hoping that a sward of fine grass will withstand 
the ravages of children's games or regular winter use? Or are you 
expecting a mixture of rough grasses to produce a bowling green 
finish with those famous stripes?

No amount of good care can help if the site and/or the grass species 
in the lawn are unsuitable for the job. The easy way round this is to 
alter your expectations to fit the lawn! The alternative is to 
correct any major problems - such as poor drainage or too much shade. 
If you are sowing a new lawn or reseeding an old one make sure you 
choose a seed mix that suits the purpose. There are all sorts 
available nowadays, including some very hard wearing (but slow 
growing) mixtures.

Mowing

If nothing else, at least everyone mows the lawn. Some gardeners will 
be out with the mower as soon as a blade of grass grows over half an 
inch tall, and others will wait until it is knee high before they 
tackle it. Both of these cases can be a recipe for disaster for the 
ordinary lawn. If the grass is cut too short and too often the plants 
will be weakened, and less able to withstand dry weather and the 
invasion of weeds. Leaving it too long will encourage species of 
grass and weeds at the expense of those you really want in the lawn. 
Regular mowing to the right height on the other hand will encourage a 
good thick healthy sward and help to control weeds. When to cut: As 
soon as the grass is 1.25cm (1/2 in) taller than the recommended 
height. How often to cut: This will obviously depend on growing 
conditions. A general purpose lawn can need a weekly cut. A fine lawn 
may need to be cut 2-3 times a week. Height of cut: Cut a general 
purpose lawn to 2.5cm (l in), a fine lawn to 1.25cm (1/2 in) during 
the growing season. Leave the grass a little longer (say 3cm 
(1-1/4in) and 2cm (3/4in) respectively) in spring, autumn or periods 
of drought.

If you have left the grass to grow too long, reduce its height over 2 
or 3 cuts, leaving a few days to recover in between. A single cut 
will be a great shock to the plants and will reduce the vigour.

Which mower? This isn't the time or the place to get involved in the 
perennial battle between the manufacturers of mowers that hover and 
of those that don't. Gardening Which? reported the results of three 
years of trials which showed that the type of mower is less important 
than how you use it. Most mowers should do a good job if kept sharp, 
and properly adjusted, and provided they are not required to cut in 
wet weather. Choose the one that suits your pocket and vour situation.

Collecting the clippings

If the lawn is cut as suggested there is in general no need to remove 
the mowings as
there should be no 

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread Chris Lloyd
 Forget about fertilisers (like bloodmeal,
bonemeal etc), whether organic or not, as Robert says it's just
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use
sifted compost and compost tea. 

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread Mike Weaver
I hate my lawn.  Pointless, and the lawn owners are killing the 
Chesapeake bay w/ fertilizer

robert and benita rabello wrote:

JJJN wrote:

  

Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been 
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and  
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep 
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed 
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it 
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
 




I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the 
mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at 
the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn 
professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with 
garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than 
grass, he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost 
tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and 
healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of 
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture 
mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first 
bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a 
lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep 
the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property 
trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn 
maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already 
think I'm weird), please let me know.

robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread robert and benita rabello
Chris Lloyd wrote:

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 
  


I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is 
responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then 
I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL 
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in 
the past.


robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Chris

  Forget about fertilisers (like bloodmeal,
bonemeal etc), whether organic or not, as Robert says it's just
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use
sifted compost and compost tea. 

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt
good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it
but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris

Compost is something you make yourself, IMHO. Fertilising in that 
sense means providing the plant with nutrients, but that's feeding 
it, not fertilising it, you have to fertilise the soil, and the soil 
feeds the plant. Feeding the plants nutrients direct is how you 
feed a sick man on a drip in a hospital bed. Feed the soil, not the 
plant.

If you get rotted horse manure next year (rotted being a word that 
covers a host of sins) use it to make compost.

 From previous, re bought compost (somebody'd said it mustn't get 
too hot, not so):

Industrial composters use stuff like constant mechanical turning and 
air injection, or hot air injection, to speed up the process. If 
that's not properly done it might catch fire, but usually it's 
properly done. Or at least properly done as far as rapid processing 
of unstable organic wastes is concerned, but it's primarily waste 
disposal, as a soil fertiliser it's not much use. They can finish it 
in a day or less, but some of the important micro-organisms take at 
least seven days to develop their colonies. Maybe this is where the 
myth of compost getting too hot and killing off the good guys arose.

I suppose they use compost like this in parks and so on, but if you 
happen to score a load of it for nothing the only use I can think of 
for it, presuming that it's free of heavy metals and the herbicides 
that won't break down and so on, is to use it as a bulk application 
to kickstart run-down soil, which you then innoculate in situ with 
much less real compost, as well as compost tea, preferably made with 
QR and liquid seaweed added.

-- Re: [Biofuel] Crude Glycerin and Hot Compost
http://snipurl.com/rymc

Best

Keith


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread JJJN
Hi Thomas,
Thanks, I will start putting compost on soon.  Every thing is going well 
except my gourds, they dont seem to like this latitude or something.  My 
jeruselum artichokes are going crazy they are already 4-5 feet tall.  I 
hope we get a late summer as last year they blossomed - a rare thing 
here.  The tubers are exceptional eating.  I went containers with 
Tomatoes and Peppers to save space.  I am just amazed at how responsive 
plants are to real soil.  How are your gardening ventures doing?

Jim

Thomas Kelly wrote:

Jim,
 My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or 
another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that have 
been damaged
(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
 I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2 hardware cloth and a smaller 
one w. 1/4  hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger 
one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried siftings with 
the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting 
plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too 
valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
 How's the garden coming?
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BIO Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


  

Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

Jim

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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-18 Thread JJJN
Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup 
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you 
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded 
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys 
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you 
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them 
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product 
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I 
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to 
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:

Chris Lloyd wrote:

  

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 
 




I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is 
responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then 
I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL 
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in 
the past.


robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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[Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-17 Thread JJJN
Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been 
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and  
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep 
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed 
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it 
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

Jim

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