Re: [vintagvw] Rear heater outlet flaps
Bert, You could probably make one fairly easy, but without a picture it would be difficultor require some engineering. Bert, you might get lucky and find a pic in the bently where they show you how to connect them. I'll do my best to shoot some pics on saturday if you remind me. It's getting pretty cold here tonight and I haveto replace all the push rod tubes on my wife's new Karman Ghia engine(don't ask). Cheers, dave -- --- Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it? On Thu, 20 Nov 2008, Bert Knupp wrote: Volks, I'm trying to renew the heating in my 1970 beetle. I've got the main flaps moving freely underneath, installed all new heater control cables -- including the one that controls the rear-seat footwell outlet flaps -- and cleaned and de-rusted the heater tubes under the back seat. But neither of my rear-seat footwell heater tubes has a control flap on its inside: there is a pivot in each tube, apparently for mounting the flap, but nothing to open or close the flow of air. Neither of my available parts donor cars seem to have them, either. The control wires just hang in mid-air after exiting their guide tubes. Can these little control flaps be found on the aftermarket? I've checked my MAM and WCM catalogs and don't find any likely suspects...none that I recognize by description, anyhow. I can't even picture how they install or work (since they're absent -- duh). Or does anybody have information that would help me fabricate a pair? Bert Knupp in Music City USA |__n__ (_)º (Ô\_|_/Ô) ü ° ° ü Polizeikäfer 1970 ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
One of the reasons why people began running 009s is that it is arguably a cleaner looking distributor without the ugly vacuum advance unit hanging off of the side. But I think the real reason is that most dual carb set-ups won't facilitate the correct vacuum signal needed. It all dates back to the Cal Look. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Greg S Tipton Sent: November 19, 2008 9:27 PM To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
The real problem I have seen with aftermarket exhausts other than not being drilled out, are that the flanges are both welded to areas that see the same amount of exhaust pressure.? If you notice the stock mufflers ran a pipe down to a low pressure area so there would actually be a flow of exhaust through the intake preheater runners.? Not sure how much flow you get through even if the holes are drilled out.? Anyone know? Ray -Original Message- From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 5:08 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Greg, I still use a 009 distributor with the H30/31 carbed 1600cc engine that came on my '65 convertible since it does not have the off-idle hesitation. However, I removed the 009 that came with my 1500cc 30-Pic-1 carb equipped enginge on my '67 Ghia. I replaced the 009 with a stock distributor and the hesitation almost disappeared. There is one other thing thing that contributed to the hesitation on my Ghia (see below). Someone else has already described the importance of ensuring the preheat tubes on the intake manifold are clear (not blocked). As you know, the end of the preheater tubes are bolted to flanges on the exhaust. If you are using an aftermarket muffler, look into the flanged hole to verify that a hole was drilled into the exhaust pipe. I removed the aftermarket muffler from the Ghia to find that the hole was not drilled; therefore, no heat was transferred into the preheat tube. I'm not sure why they'd go through the trouble to weld the flange on the exhaust and NOT drill a hole into the pipe! Good Luck! Brian - Original Message - From: Greg S Tipton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:27 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Brian, Thank you for the information. I now understand why the 009 stumbles. I enjoyed reading the articles and I now have a greater understanding of how the two types of advances differ in performance. Another plus is that I now know what is wrong with my Dad's 72 Super Beetle. He also has a 009 distributor. I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. take care, Greg Brian wrote: Greg, The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on engine load (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical advance distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached that advance the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots on acceleration because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good description of the distributors: http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum advance distributor to determine it's condition. 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn. With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor shaft side to side; there should be very little noticeable movement. 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and watch the advance plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly. 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the advance plate on one end and a nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor by a screw from the outside. If you need a picture of this, let me know. Here's more good information regarding different distributors. http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html Brian ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
You might get a back-and-forth pulse as the two connected exhaust ports fire, but the end result would be zero flow. If you wanted to recreate the same effect that a stock muffler has, you'd relocate one of the two preheat flanges to the center of the four-way collector. That way, you'd have pulsed pressure at one end and a vacuum at the collector end. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: November 20, 2008 7:05 PM To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port The real problem I have seen with aftermarket exhausts other than not being drilled out, are that the flanges are both welded to areas that see the same amount of exhaust pressure.? If you notice the stock mufflers ran a pipe down to a low pressure area so there would actually be a flow of exhaust through the intake preheater runners.? Not sure how much flow you get through even if the holes are drilled out.? Anyone know? Ray -Original Message- From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 5:08 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Greg, I still use a 009 distributor with the H30/31 carbed 1600cc engine that came on my '65 convertible since it does not have the off-idle hesitation. However, I removed the 009 that came with my 1500cc 30-Pic-1 carb equipped enginge on my '67 Ghia. I replaced the 009 with a stock distributor and the hesitation almost disappeared. There is one other thing thing that contributed to the hesitation on my Ghia (see below). Someone else has already described the importance of ensuring the preheat tubes on the intake manifold are clear (not blocked). As you know, the end of the preheater tubes are bolted to flanges on the exhaust. If you are using an aftermarket muffler, look into the flanged hole to verify that a hole was drilled into the exhaust pipe. I removed the aftermarket muffler from the Ghia to find that the hole was not drilled; therefore, no heat was transferred into the preheat tube. I'm not sure why they'd go through the trouble to weld the flange on the exhaust and NOT drill a hole into the pipe! Good Luck! Brian - Original Message - From: Greg S Tipton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:27 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Brian, Thank you for the information. I now understand why the 009 stumbles. I enjoyed reading the articles and I now have a greater understanding of how the two types of advances differ in performance. Another plus is that I now know what is wrong with my Dad's 72 Super Beetle. He also has a 009 distributor. I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. take care, Greg Brian wrote: Greg, The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on engine load (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical advance distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached that advance the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots on acceleration because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good description of the distributors: http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum advance distributor to determine it's condition. 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn. With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor shaft side to side; there should be very little noticeable movement. 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and watch the advance plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly. 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the advance plate on one end and a nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor by a screw from the outside. If you need a picture of this, let me know. Here's more good information regarding different distributors. http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html Brian ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
