Re: [apple-crop] research on suckering?
Hugh, I figured you mean't Chateau. Chateau can only be applied pre-bud break (silver tip for apple) or by extension, presumably in the fall after harvest. Dave, Venue (Nichino) has a supplemental label specific for sucker management in pome and stone fruit. It works best when tank-mixed with another contact herbicide such as paraquat (Gramoxone) or glufosinate-ammonium (Rely). (Or glyphosate, but I know how much you love that stuff!) As always, avoid direct contact to the tree trunk, particularly young trees, with any contact herbicide to avoid long-term injury to the tree. Jon On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 11:02 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Hi everyone, By mistake I made the comment that Chaparral was effective against apple suckers, I should have said, Chateau is effective. Sorry about the mix-up... On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 1:20 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: David, My Chaparral label does mention apple. I don't have access to the label at the moment, but I will in a few days. This herbicide is also very effective in weed control in your strips. I now spray once with Chaparral and maybe once with roundup rather than 4-6 times with roundup. (per season) I'm sure if you contact Dow they will fill you in. I'll get a chance to read my label and get back to you in a few days. Also, consider Paraquat. This is a very effective material for sucker burn down. I think Paraquat is also labeled for apple. Hugh On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:05 PM, David A. Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: Hello, Hugh — I was interested in your comment about controlling apple root suckers with Chaparral herbicide because root suckers have become a major headache in some of our older research plots. However, when I checked the Chaparral label on the CDMS website, I can’t find any label that includes apples. Do you have a special state label for apples, or were you thinking of a different herbicide? The Chaparral labels that I found indicate that it is not registered at all in NY (no big surprise), but I’m still curious about products that might be used for chemical control of root suckers in other states. However, given all of the warnings on the Chaparral label about long-term residual effects, even in hay from treated fields, I’m wondering about long-term side effects on apples even if it were labeled. On Jan 1, 2015, at 1:38 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Steven, This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience. On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote: Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop -- Jon Clements aka 'Mr Honeycrisp' UMass
Re: [apple-crop] research on suckering?
Jon, I did mean Chateau. my experience last year was that suckers sprayed with the material looked sick in a few days. In 2-3 weeks they were easily pulled, usually with the node and some roots coming up as well. I've found that pulling a 5-6mm healthy sucker (1/4 inch) may take 50 pounds or more pull to get it out of the ground. After Chateau, the pull was reduced greatly, to maybe 5-10 pounds, and I could grab 2-3 at the time. Again, this is anecdotal info and no science was employed what-so-ever. On Fri, Jan 2, 2015 at 3:54 PM, Jon Clements jon.cleme...@umass.edu wrote: Hugh, I figured you mean't Chateau. Chateau can only be applied pre-bud break (silver tip for apple) or by extension, presumably in the fall after harvest. Dave, Venue (Nichino) has a supplemental label specific for sucker management in pome and stone fruit. It works best when tank-mixed with another contact herbicide such as paraquat (Gramoxone) or glufosinate-ammonium (Rely). (Or glyphosate, but I know how much you love that stuff!) As always, avoid direct contact to the tree trunk, particularly young trees, with any contact herbicide to avoid long-term injury to the tree. Jon On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 11:02 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Hi everyone, By mistake I made the comment that Chaparral was effective against apple suckers, I should have said, Chateau is effective. Sorry about the mix-up... On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 1:20 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: David, My Chaparral label does mention apple. I don't have access to the label at the moment, but I will in a few days. This herbicide is also very effective in weed control in your strips. I now spray once with Chaparral and maybe once with roundup rather than 4-6 times with roundup. (per season) I'm sure if you contact Dow they will fill you in. I'll get a chance to read my label and get back to you in a few days. Also, consider Paraquat. This is a very effective material for sucker burn down. I think Paraquat is also labeled for apple. Hugh On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:05 PM, David A. Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: Hello, Hugh — I was interested in your comment about controlling apple root suckers with Chaparral herbicide because root suckers have become a major headache in some of our older research plots. However, when I checked the Chaparral label on the CDMS website, I can’t find any label that includes apples. Do you have a special state label for apples, or were you thinking of a different herbicide? The Chaparral labels that I found indicate that it is not registered at all in NY (no big surprise), but I’m still curious about products that might be used for chemical control of root suckers in other states. However, given all of the warnings on the Chaparral label about long-term residual effects, even in hay from treated fields, I’m wondering about long-term side effects on apples even if it were labeled. On Jan 1, 2015, at 1:38 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Steven, This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience. On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote: Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list
[apple-crop] research on suckering?
Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like 'nodes' at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] research on suckering?
Steven, This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience. On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote: Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] research on suckering?
Hello, Hugh — I was interested in your comment about controlling apple root suckers with Chaparral herbicide because root suckers have become a major headache in some of our older research plots. However, when I checked the Chaparral label on the CDMS website, I can’t find any label that includes apples. Do you have a special state label for apples, or were you thinking of a different herbicide? The Chaparral labels that I found indicate that it is not registered at all in NY (no big surprise), but I’m still curious about products that might be used for chemical control of root suckers in other states. However, given all of the warnings on the Chaparral label about long-term residual effects, even in hay from treated fields, I’m wondering about long-term side effects on apples even if it were labeled. On Jan 1, 2015, at 1:38 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.commailto:hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Steven, This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience. On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote: Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] research on suckering?
Hi everyone, By mistake I made the comment that Chaparral was effective against apple suckers, I should have said, Chateau is effective. Sorry about the mix-up... On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 1:20 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: David, My Chaparral label does mention apple. I don't have access to the label at the moment, but I will in a few days. This herbicide is also very effective in weed control in your strips. I now spray once with Chaparral and maybe once with roundup rather than 4-6 times with roundup. (per season) I'm sure if you contact Dow they will fill you in. I'll get a chance to read my label and get back to you in a few days. Also, consider Paraquat. This is a very effective material for sucker burn down. I think Paraquat is also labeled for apple. Hugh On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:05 PM, David A. Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: Hello, Hugh — I was interested in your comment about controlling apple root suckers with Chaparral herbicide because root suckers have become a major headache in some of our older research plots. However, when I checked the Chaparral label on the CDMS website, I can’t find any label that includes apples. Do you have a special state label for apples, or were you thinking of a different herbicide? The Chaparral labels that I found indicate that it is not registered at all in NY (no big surprise), but I’m still curious about products that might be used for chemical control of root suckers in other states. However, given all of the warnings on the Chaparral label about long-term residual effects, even in hay from treated fields, I’m wondering about long-term side effects on apples even if it were labeled. On Jan 1, 2015, at 1:38 PM, Hugh Thomas hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote: Steven, This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience. On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote: Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting sucker reduction? On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled. I have also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well. Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just suckers that are already on their way? Do suckering rootstocks simply sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant sucker buds scattered all over? For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers? Or would that only reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year? I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111, and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time effort before planting, then I will do the work. The hardest suckers to control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks. I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant folk such as I. Grateful in advance, Steven Bibula ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
