Re: [Boatanchors] Article on changing from 2 to 3 wire power cords

[Al Parker]

Hi Maury,
	The HT-32 is a great xmtr, I use mine weekly.  But there are a few 
"gotchas" in it.
	First off, don't power it up yet (or again).  The HT-32 & HT-37 (plus 
other Halli xfmrs) are prone to picking up moisture if in storage for 
any length of time.  The HV winding will short to one of the 5v windings 
fairly soon after powering up in it's been stored.  If any question, put 
a 60 watt light bulb under it for a day or 3 to warm it up and drive out 
moisture.
	The problem then can be avoided by installing SS diodes in place of 
both rectifiers, and disconnecting the 5v leads from both sockets.
	Second, the bias supply has a selenium rectifier in it that probably 
has gone bad and you won't get enough negative bias voltage on the 
finals to cut them off when you let the key or mike switch up.  If it's 
not too bad, the AC fuse, if it's proper size, will blow after a while. 
If a prev. owner has installed a bigger fuse, and the bias voltage is 
too far off, the finals will melt down.
	You can see some of my experiences with the HT-32/37's at 
  The SS diodes are covered abt half 
way down the pg.  I don't think I've put anything out on the bias 
rectifier fix, but a small SS diode will do the job, but since it has 
much less voltage drop it will need a dropping resistor added at its 
output.  IIRC, 2k-3k will be reqd.
	The fan will probably be noisy, if not now, after a while.  Replace it 
with a small fan from a PC or elsewhere, with a proper pwr supply to it. 
 (blowing out).
	The AC line is isolated from the chassis, no problem with that.  When 
you install a 3-wire cord, wire the hot (black wire to the fuse, and the 
neutral (white) to the other line, xfmr primary.  The green wire to any 
convenient ground point.

I hope this is of some help to you,
73,
Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 8/7/2019 10:08 AM, Maury Guzick wrote:

  I appreciate all the replies.

I have been replacing worn out 2 wire power cords with newer 2 wire cords of 
similar style on radios with one side grounded to the chassis.

I am at the moment looking at bringing back to life a HT-32 I got for $10. But 
the AC is or has been lifted off the chassis. There have been a number of mods 
under the chassis. So I want to have a better understanding of how to rewire 
the power cord.

I also am looking at some antique radios that are AC/DC types that will need 
new cords, so this inquiry is multipurpose.

73MauryW5IO



 On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 7:17:20 PM CDT, Eric  wrote:
  
  My very unlearned opinion.



Connecting a supposed to be floating metal cabinet to the grounding wire
and then using the hot and neutral wires to connect to the chassis
inside the cabinet would protect against the cabinet from "going hot".
As far as I know this is the entire purpose of the grounding wire.

If the cabinet is wood, plastic or some other insulating material,then I
can't see any reason to install a 3 wire cord & plug.


Eric
WB6TIX

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Re: [Boatanchors] HT 32 help

[Al Parker]

Hi Ray, et al,
	I've been using my HT-32 almost every Sun. for the last 18-19 yrs, it 
just keeps on going.
	Yes, the p.s. mod is the best thing to help out the HT-32/37.  You can 
see some info and pix on the job at
  down the page a ways.  Be sure to 
dis-connect the 5v filament leads.  Also a helpful mod is to install 
push to talk, and easy job, a 73 mag article cc'd there for that.
	One other thing that might come up to bite you is the bias supply. 
They had selenium diodes in that, and they do last a long time, but do 
fail.  They develop a very high voltage drop across them,  and the bias 
voltage is no longer enough to keep the finals near cutoff when not 
transmitting.  That will probably show up as the AC line fuse blowing 
after the xmtr's been on a while.  Replacement with a SS diode will also 
require jockeying the downstream resistor values a bit, I can't come up 
with specific values there right now.

73,
Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole
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Re: [Boatanchors] SB101 squeal

[Al Parker]

Hi all,
	I agree, it's not much more $, and it makes it look much more 
professional, use the heathkitshop kit.  Another similar source is 
  I don't know see one for the 
HP-23, but Jeff supplies similar kits for other applications.  I've used 
both, and they both provide excellent stuff, and will give support.


Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 7/9/2018 11:58 AM, GENE BALINSKI wrote:

Ray,

For the HP-23, buy this: https://www.theheathkitshop.com/page16/index.html 
HP-23 rebuild kit. I have use his kits for the Drake AC-4 supplies, and they 
work well. I will be ordering one for my HP-23

73

Gene K1NR


On July 8, 2018 at 11:07 AM RAY FRIESS  wrote:

but in the meantime, I'll have to scrounge through the shack to see if I can scrape together some filter caps and hope RaElco gets back in business soon. 

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Re: [Boatanchors] (no subject)

[Al Parker]

pse just send it to my address in the callbook

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 6/9/2017 11:34 AM, michael via Boatanchors wrote:

We will send check

Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android device


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Re: [Boatanchors] Sprague Black Beauty capacitors

[Al Parker]

Hi Richard,
	I thought you'd have opened a real discussion here, but haven't seen 
anything yet.  So, here's my thoughts -- I've done a lot of SP-600's, 
and they each have in the neighborhood of 55 BBOD's in them.  I've 
usually used disc ceramics in most places, with electrolytics where 
needed due to value, and poly's for the few interstage coupling 
applications, particularly when RF is involved.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 3/14/2017 3:50 PM, Richard wrote:

I have seen a lot of rhetoric about how bad the Sprague Black Beauties
are and they should all be replaced, but nobody indicates a reasonable
replacement. I have some 0.22 uFd BB's that I am thinking of replacing
with polypropylene film non-polar caps. Is this a reasonable choice? I
assume non-polar caps can be used just like polarized caps for DC power
filters. Does one just pick a positive terminal and go from there? Other
options are ceramic disk or electrolytic. What is the recommended
replacement? Please advise.

Richard
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Re: [Boatanchors] Navigator and Heathkit A-1 Meters

[Al Parker]

Well, shazaam --
	There's an article by WB4OGM in the latest (Oct. 16) ER that describes 
the AT-1 meter in detail, but (I haven't read it in detail) doesn'tseem 
to fix the old gripe other than to say that in the AT-1, at least, there 
is one switch posn that disconnects the meter.  He say that it's not 
really a "moving vane" meter as is usually claim, but is a "moving 
magnet" movement, but they both have about the same characteristic 
overshoot.
	IIRC several of the early Heath xmtrs had the same type meter, I built 
one of the first DX-35's and griped abt it then.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 10/14/2016 11:16 AM, Wilson Lamb wrote:

Capacitor?
WL

-Original Message- From: Gary Franklin Sent: Friday, October 14,
2016 10:55 AM To: Boatanchors Subject: [Boatanchors] Navigator and
Heathkit A-1 Meters
Is there a solution for snubbing/taming  the meter action on the Johnson
Navigator and Heathkit AT-1 meters?

Gary

K8BKB

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Re: [Boatanchors] SB-200 meter switch, Correction for part number

[Al Parker]

Perry,
Do you still need this switch?  I have one.
73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 9/21/2016 6:48 PM, Perry Nettles wrote:

On previous post made a mistake on Heath part#. It should be 63- 352

Perry Nettles
 KF5SMU

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Re: [Boatanchors] How to remove nicotine

[Al Parker]

what is it?

Al, W8UT

On 8/22/2016 7:14 PM, Dale Putnam wrote:

I use a safe biodegradeable spray that has no harmful chemicals.

works like 409 or clorox green works.



Have a great day,
--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy

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Re: [Boatanchors] Hammarlund Outercom FM-50A Docs?

[Al Parker]

Hi Mike,
	IF you email it to me, I'll get the FM-50A doc up on The Hammarlund 
Historian website, on the "manuals" page.  The whole site could use some 
more updating since the server crash a few yrs ago, I've done some, 
mostly with the manuals, I'll get it up there this wkend, maybe busy on 
more soon.

Thanks for your offer.
73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 1/9/2016 11:20 AM, Mike Langner wrote:

Sent via Boatanchors -- no response to two direct emails to David.

I have a manual on the FM-50A, and have sent a copy to KD4E -- no response from 
the direct email send or from a follow-up, so I may be ending up in his spam 
trap.

If anyone else would like a copy of the manual/schematic/etc. please let me 
know and I'll email it directly to you.

If there's a "files" place where it would serve the community to have it posted 
anyone is welcome to post it there. . .

Thanks and 73!

Mike/
K5MGR
__

Mike Langner
929 Alameda Road NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114-1901

(505) 898-3212 home/home office
(505) 238-8810 cell
mlang...@swcp.com

Original Message:
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Hammarlund Outercom FM-50A Docs?


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Re: [Boatanchors] Hammarlund Outercom FM-50A Docs?

[Al Parker]

Also, I have someone looking for FM-60A manual/info
any help greatly appreciated, I'll pas it on to him.
tnx, 73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 1/8/2016 2:46 PM, q...@kd4e.com wrote:

Anyone have a schematic, block diagram, and/or
circuit description for the FM-50?

I don't see one to download on the usual sites
nor via a general Search.

I've been told it may be a good choice for my
intended ARES-EC application.

Very much appreciate even a link.

Thanks - David KD4E



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Re: [Boatanchors] Anyone Familiar with Raytheon EL34 Made in Germany?

[Al Parker]

Hi William,
	You could probably hype it up a little more and make a killing on 
fleabay.  yellow label  flying saucer getter must be super rare 
R@RE


Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole
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[Boatanchors] FS: Drake TR-3, RV-3, AC-3 $250

[Al Parker]

Hi folks,
They are not beautiful, but are quite serviceable.
Pix may  be seen at http://www.boatanchors.org/TR-3sn10540/
	I have been thru these pieces, replaced many (not all) electrolytics 
both in the TR-3 and the AC-3, incl. the bias filter in the AC-3, and an 
earlier owner had replaced one of the cans.  Ones not changed measured 
good for ESR.  The xtal filter is good on both SB's.
My shop notes from last Winter aren't very detailed, but I did have 
it on the air, and ckd all bands.  Notes say, good output on all bands 
incl. 10m, exc. a bit low on 15m.  I didn't record wattmeter readings, 
unfortunately.  I put in good 12JB6's, as 2 were useless when I got it. 
 Their screen and cathode resistors were replaced, as well as the B+ 
dropping resistor for the driver.  The TR-3 presently has a removable 
jumper in the RV-3 socket, so it can be operated w/o the RV-3 plugged in.
$250 for all.  Plus shipping, in 3 boxes.  I can deliver this to 
the Shelby 'fest this coming week, if a substantial deposit is received 
before Thurs. 8/28, when I'll leave for the fest.  I'll be there until 
noon Sat.  (I lost a sale once when I hauled over 100 lbs of radio 
there, without deposit, for a fellow who didn't show up, and I foolishly 
held it for him when others wanted it.)

TR-3 s/n 10540, RV-3 s/n 13365, AC-3 s/n 12604
tnx, 73,

Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC  28560
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole
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Re: [Boatanchors] SP-600 Restoration

[Al Parker]

Hi Bob,
	The sticky/jumpy tuning is probably due to some lubricant on the brass 
tuning flywheel and it's small wheel, and maybe the edge of the dial 
it rides on.  Have him clean those well with alcohol, also lube, very 
sparingly, the bushings for the various shafts in the mechanism, as well 
as the end bearings on the tuning capacitor.  Those brass wheels must be 
scrupulously clean to avoid slipping.
	Has this rcvr ever been re-capped?  What is the ser. no.?  If not, and 
s/n is below about 17,500 it will be full (more than 50) of BBOD's, and 
that could be part of the sensitivity problem.
	Is this rcvr new to him?  Does he know its' history, at least for the 
last few yrs, and what work has been done to it?  He can get some more 
hints, etc., from the SP-600 page on www.boatanchors.org - link 
found near the top of the home page.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

On 7/16/2014 10:22 PM, Bob Jackson wrote:

I have a friend (Seriously, not myself!) with a J21 model (I think) that he may 
wish to have 'made right'. It is in 'working order' but with low sensitivity 
and sticky, i.e. not smooth, tuning. RF alignment, I'm told, is spot on. If 
swapping a few tubes and some general dusting off/out doesn't help, he'll be 
looking for someone who's ready, willing and able, etc. to make it 'right'. In 
this case, 'right' means fully functional in the manner and means it was 
intended to operate with but without cosmetic refurbishment. I will happily 
pass along any/all suggestions made to me (off list, please) for him to follow 
up on.

Thanks and 73 to all,

Bob  AG5X

PS Yes, he understands that shipping a '600 is a severe task in every respect.
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Re: [Boatanchors] SP-600 Restoration

[Al Parker]

Hi Bob,
The sticky/jumpy tuning is probably due to some lubricant on the 
brass tuning flywheel and it's small wheel, and maybe the edge of the 
dial it rides on.  Have him clean those well with alcohol, also lube, 
very sparingly, the bushings for the various shafts in the mechanism, as 
well as the end bearings on the tuning capacitor.  Those brass wheels 
must be scrupulously clean to avoid slipping.
Has this rcvr ever been re-capped?  What is the ser. no.?  If not, 
and s/n is below about 17,500 it will be full (more than 50) of BBOD's, 
and that could be part of the sensitivity problem.
Is this rcvr new to him?  Does he know its' history, at least for 
the last few yrs, and what work has been done to it?  He can get some 
more hints, etc., from the SP-600 page on www.boatanchors.org - link 
found near the top of the home page.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole
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Re: [Boatanchors] 2C39 Tubes

[Al Parker]

Hi Wilson,
I suspect not, I've got some, too.  Want some more?
	Good to see you today, but you didn't stick around.  Had a few words 
with Mac.  I know, both off to get some barbeque?   ;-)

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

On 4/19/2014 6:50 PM, Wilson wrote:

Worth anything?
Came back from hamfest with a handfull of them.
Worth anything?
Wilson
W4BOH

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