Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on the
port handrail? It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
headliner and the head headliner.
I am fine pulling the head's headliner
I agree Neil, a Brit Chance modified keel...no pics of the keel...wish they
would have posted more pics...like to see the keel...maybe it's under a
cover for secrecy like they did with the AC boats years ago when the wing
first came out...i believe I checked that same boat out just before I got
my
I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’
Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang
gliding. I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ CC
(my favorite). I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the CC
Having a slightly bigger CC, I would think if you supported the boom at the
aft end and used a multi-part lift, the engine would come out easily. I would
try to spread the load on the boom - use about three lines (spread over about
three to four feet) from it to the lifting come-along or
Welcome, Dan
First, the leaks on the toe rails. They should currently be sealed with
butyl rubber. You can tighten the fasteners a bit. Have someone hold from
above and tighten from below. Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
butyl out.
I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if
I have used my boom many times to get the A4 engine in and out of my boat. It
works well if you remember the boom is strong in COMPRESSION. If the engine is
not being lifted from the end of the boom, you need the main halyard to tie to
the boom where you are lifting from. What you do not want
Josh,
If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991). It may not be for a few weeks.
Regards,
Ron
Ronald V. Ricci
S/V Patriot
CC 37+
Bristol, RI
mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, November
I'm surprised no one mentioned the Caframo heaters.. Extremely well made
in Canada and specifically designed to protect your boat in the winter with
a 'No Freeze setting designed to keep it just warm enough / not burn too
much electricity.
Hi Dan. I am the owner of a CC 38. I had overheating issues and it was just a
pluggeg heat exchanger. The Yanmar is a pretty bulit proof engine. I live
aboard in Shilshole. I will be in Brownsville next weekend if you would like to
bs over a beer. Doug
T-Mobile. America's First
Josh
I'll check too. But probably not til next week. SHe's in the shop
getting the dripless bearing dripless again and a full tune up.
BTW, my PO replaced the deck handrails with stainless. My wife Lynn,
who handles all the bright work, was very pleased!
Tom B
At 09:00 AM 11/22/2014,
To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping
the engine onboard. I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar
tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar. According
to him the bearings are significantly over built. So, assuming you keep
Tom can I get pictures of the stainless? Do you know where your stainless
rails came from? I'm looking to have them made by White Water Marine Inc.
On Nov 22, 2014 1:13 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Josh
I'll check too. But probably not til next week. SHe's
I blasted out to Victoria to escape the frigid Alberta cold for a week or so.
So I thought a little biking and messing around in the bilge would be fun. The
water in the bilge was a bit salty and the mild steel plates below the keel
bolts were badly corroded so I replaced some of the plates
Here is the photos of me re-powing my CC30MK1. Some advise spread the load
on the boom. Set a pallet in the cockpit. You will need to re-position the
Engine on the boom before you head into the cabin. or to the dock if coming
out. Get 2 short 4X6's for use in the cabin floor and set them on
A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder
head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water
passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and
still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can
Dan,
Welcome to our Cc family! You may be able to tighten the bolts along the
toe rail. It tales 2 ppeople - one inside, one out. There is butyl tape
in the joint.
Overheating could be a stuck impeller part or blocked exhaust elbow (common
on Yanmars).
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Saturday,
Josh
There's a pretty good look at it here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/7544710028/in/set-72157629350057893
Probably a few other in the folder on flickr as well.
I think this was done with off the shelf components, though I am not
sure. I have seen similar stuff at Fisheries
Sounds like a pro job to me. I would talk to Blackline and get their
opinion.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 22 November 2014 at 12:02, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
I blasted out to Victoria to escape the frigid Alberta cold for a week or
so. So
I pick blocked exhaust elbow for $500.
Trace the water flow, pull hoses, look in orifices. I had to drill out the
90* fitting between the engine and the exhaust because it was totally
blocked with hard crud.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 22 November 2014 at 13:02, Joel
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