I assumed the reason for the offset prop shaft on the 30-1 was so you could
pull the prop or shaft without the rudder interfering.
I haven't been backing much with my 30-1 this year because I'm at an end slip
on a T-shaped dock. I do a U-turn to get in, tie to starboard, and drive
straight
Chris,
This is a serious, but not fatal, problem. Good advice to mark shaft where it enters coupler, then forward and reverse at dock or mooring. Observe shaft while doing this if you have a helper. Then check the mark. If shaft is pulling out of coupler I recommend that you remove the
I saw both 40s today, the white one at NEB and the blue one at Pirate's Cove
that is for sale. Both need work. The blue one has older paint with a lot of
print through and chafes. The bottom looked nice, newly barrier coated.
I took a few pics (only from the ground). Go to Flickr.com and
You referred to a 3GDF. I'm not familiar with this engine and in fact did
a google search which revealed nothing. Typo? If you intended to say 3GMF
then the answer is yes it is a direct replacement, with caveats. As I
understand it not all of the 3GM engines had the same transmission so check
After 32 years, my 3GMD is loosing about 1 qt of oil/10 hrs of running.
It runs great and does not seem to smoke. I think the seals are weeping
and causing the oil loss. Does anyone know if the 3GDF is a direct swap
for the 3GMD, as "F" is more readily found. Thanks.
Howard Paul
Knot Again,
Cat’s Paw was hauled out 3 days ago and there are clusters of barnacles in
several places, although most of the hull is virtually clear of growth. One
cluster is on the thru hull ports for the depth sounder and speedometer (which
was replaced during the summer with the plug when it stopped
Guys: I have a couple of experiences with Wet & Forget..First, check their
website siteyou'll find the concentrated product discussed here in the area
of power washers and other roof or siding cleaners.I used it on a house
roof section that had mold, moss, and lichens.2
I have never used “wet and forget” but I have tried a product called Concrobium
which is used in the same way. My experience is that these products are no more
effective at killing mold than ordinary bleach. The best way to control mold is
to reduce
I always understood that prop walk was a result of gyroscopic effect just
like on an airplane with a centerline propeller. I understood that it was
much less pronounced going forward because of the location of the propeller
in relationship to the rest of the boat. In backing up, the rudder is
I use two Caframo air dryers with fans and a solar day/night vent. No humidity
issues. Caveat: Touché is in the water and on shore power year round.
Used to also set out a third air dryer but found two works.
My go to product for mold removal is Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach.
Not
Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget". ??
It is supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on
and let it air dry. Available at Lowes and Home Depot.
I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last
year it was
The boat referred to in my earlier post was a Pearson 28, 1982. AFAIK, it had
the original engine and transmission and an offset prop.
Ideally you are correct, assuming the boat/prop/engine/transmission combo ended
up with the prop rotation 'walk' making up for the offset.
In my case, it
The 30-1's have a shaft which is offset to port. I assume that was for one
or two reasons. First, to minimize prop walk in forward? And for ease of
getting the shaft out without dropping the (rather heavy) rudder.
No fun to back the boat. I start way early and drive it backward slowly and
then
I, too, have a 3gmf. When I had transmission problems (transmission not
fully engaging, and I had to go to reverse and then forward) I had to add
a shim inside the transmission. That corrected the transmission problem of
not engaging properly, which was caused by the "in and out" play.
Alan
I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the
In and Out!? You could be getting ready to lose your prop or shaft. A
lost shaft could result in a 1" hole allowing gushing water in your boat.
Check what you can while in the water from in the boat. Try to recreate
the "play". Check for loose coupling/nuts.
I hope and can only imagine that
Hi all,
When the dive service cleaned my hull last week, the diver informed me of some
in-out play in the shaft. I have a 35-3 with the 3gmf and a dripless seal.
My question is what are the common causes for this and is some play normal or
am I facing a potentially catastrophic problem.
Any
+1 for backing into a slip!
I do it all the time facing aft but with the wheel behind me. It keeps me much
closer to the 'action' as the stern glides in pretty much as Chuck describes
below. I especially like the ability to stop her with a shift to forward and a
burst of power--that is
+1 on that. Not a good idea to go up the mast when on the hard. The stability
of the boat is quite limited with only the jack stands or the cradle pads
support her laterally. The mast itself is an issue. Then you would be adding
about 80-100 kg at the very top of it (the longest arm possible).
Getting close to a mainsail decision and will post more before long - very much
in line with the various pieces of advice I received from fellow listers. I
will summarize all of that soon.
Kevin was dead on - the blog itself is a wealth of info, well written, very
relevant etc, however I
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