Thanks Josh!
Bruce Whitmore
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Date: 5/6/18 6:13 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re:
I like using Rescue Tape.
http://www.rescuetape.com/
No sticky residue (only sticks to itself) and comes in a variety of colors — I
use green on starboard and red on port.
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ |
Dennis,
I’ve used 3M white electrical tape usually purchased at Home Despot.
Ron
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2018 6:53 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Rigging tape for wrapping pins,
Used the last of my 3M Marine Rigging Tape today wrapping the pins on the
shrouds. I've always used the 3M tape and found it to be fairly reliable
and long lasting.
Before I order more, does anybody use a rigging tape that is incredibly
better than the 3M tape? (Please don't mention the West
I work with solenoid valves quite a bit at work and can tell you that it is
very common for them to be hot to touch when energized. You might be able
to find an aluminum heat sink if it really concerns you. I googled the
auto ignition temperature of propane and it is 851° F, so 170° isn't even
It took me a while, but I eventually ordered an Isotherm SPA unit. It is more
expensive, but it comes with the temperature regulation valve and it is
stainless throughout.
Thanks, Dennis, for the suggestion.
Thanks
Marek
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
Original message
Hi Russ,
There is an unknown number of inches of air now “trapped” in the system but
would estimate at least 12” if not more based on the height of the fuel level
in the tank [and therefore within the pickup tube] plus the fitting on top of
the tank and whatever length of hose fuel
Hello all,
I did a propane leak-down test recently, and in addition to replacing the
pigtail from a relatively new regulator to the tank, I decided to replace the
hose to the solenoid, and the solenoid itself (the old one was functioning but
was quite rusty).
After replacing the solenoid, on
I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C changed methods. Good
to know.
> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
> material. All solid.
> Yes the
I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
material. All solid.
Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the
chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were
more of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't
Hi Brian,
From your description posted a while ago, you do
not have a system full of air. Nor do you have a
filter full of air. You have at most a few inches
of air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case?
Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running?
BTW,
Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this
process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under
time pressure to get the boat launched… Am still on the hard over an hour’s
drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.
Can
Actually looking to remove the entire panel that the electronics are
mounted on, not just the breaker panel. Anybody done that on a 36'?
I plan to upgrade the breaker panel and install a main panel with hinged
access. For now though I just want to get some take-off measurements so I
can fab a
Love the before photos. Did you take any of the fix?
> On May 5, 2018 at 11:30 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Same. The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored. The offseason before last I
> removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around
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