Hi Len, I am having a similar problem with the forward hatch on my 30-2 as
well. I have not looked at the hinges that closely yet, but I will
tomorrow and let you know if they can be 3D printed or not. I have access
to several high-end printers at work and should be able to figure out what
would
Hi Bruno, I have done foredeck on several boats. Both end-o's and dip pole,
I like the triggers for dip pole but I don't feel that they would be any
advantage at all for end for end. And on 35' and smaller boats you
definitely want to be doing the end-o's. I suggest to keep it simple and
stick
Hi Dave, I used 6mm acrylic with a light bronze tint when I did mine this
spring and it matched the original perfectly. It is my understanding that
the UV and scratch resistant polycarbonate get those added properties from
coatings applied to the surface and that these coatings don't last that
Hi Shawn, I always take my main halyard to the back end of the boom, when
not sailing. So you can still use that to lift the boom a bit higher then
what the vang will.
Morgan
On Fri, 28 Jun 2019 at 13:55, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> One thing I do like about the
whipping...
LOL, pardon the auto-misspelling app!
"The beatings shall continue, until morale improves"
On Wed, 26 Jun 2019 at 14:23, Rod Stright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Locking wiping, whipping?
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Morg
The C 115 that I used to crew on had the same issue, tried smaller jaws
in the clutch, which helped but not much. In the end, what worked was
adding the second core to the 5' of halyard where the clutch needs to grab.
On that boat, we also removed some core from the tail end of the halyard,
which
Hi Shawn, don't let the diagram scare you. My 30-2 is even higher on the
chart. All it means is that you need to reef early to keep the admiral
happy. I feel that any boat that has a decent amount of power in the sail
plan will rank up there. You can always reduce sail area in heavy weather,
but
I have sourced them at Napa, for my M3-20, at a reasonable price. If I get
back down to the yard today, I will post the make and model that I have.
Morgan
On Sun, Apr 14, 2019, 12:33 John Christopher via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Two of the 2 glow plugs on my 1983 weaterbeke
Hi David, do you have engine heated hot water on your boat? If so, you
could disconnect those hoses. Run one to an empty 5 gal bucket and the
other to one with fresh water. Run the engine until the fluid coming out is
clear. You could do this a couple of time to flush the system then refill
with
I would love to hear Mr. Ball chime in on this thread, if possible, from a
mast design point of view. I have been told by a very experienced offshore
sailor and the instructor of Offshore Sea Survival courses, that the masts
are designed to have a mainsail hoisted and are not stable or properly
>
> Hi Joe, I answered the survey. A quick comment, your son may want to
> chaange the multiple choise answer options to the question on how often do
> you fold sails on your boat. The most frequent interval he offers is 3+
> time per season. On the race boat we fold sails 3+ times per week!
>
Hi Josh, Thanks for the feedback, and great video! I believe my friend had
used the conventional Y-style soft shackle design made from Dyneema. I like
the look of your's much better (see a better soft shackle,
http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_9.php) as there is no need to try to milk the
cover back to
>
> I know there was a great discussion on soft shackles last year, it had
inspired me to make some and try them out. But then I was talking to a
friend who had tried them on his express 27 and changed my mind. His
problem was that when they got wet and loaded up, they were difficult to
open. Has
I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I was have issues with race
engine and was changing filters often and cutting them open to try to
identify where the wear was coming from. In doing this we cut open several
different makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! Since then I only
buy
>
> Hi Doug, I'm just finishing my second season with my 30-2 and absolutely
> love it! Although I don't race mine it would make an excellent race boat
> and could be sailed to her rating fairly easily. I do my racing on a
> friend's J35, so I don't need to spend the extra for the fancy sails for
Hi Eric, Just curious, what was the temperature when you did the project?
Did it stay dry/warm while it was setting?
This is a project that I need to tackle soon and I am really hoping that
you find the issue so that myself and others can avoid the pit fall?
Regards,
Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher
C
Be careful to pour the water in slowly and it will work very well. One of
the tricks used to get more power out of high performance diesel engines is
to install a water injection system. It works like nitro in a gas engine.
If have seen pulling match and black exhaust smoke suddenly turns white...
I'm in Ontario and my insurance is with Intact. Great rates, fortunately I
have not had to deal with them other then putting insurance on the boat so
I can't comment any further than that.
Regards
Morgan
SV Meandher
30-2 #140
>
>
___
Thanks everyone
>
> Hi Chad, I currently have the mast out of my 30-2 and can send photos of
> the step, if you like. but these mast steps are built much better than the
> older 30-1's. If your rods are stretching then they may have been tensioned
> beyond their yield and maybe prone to failure. IF this is the
Have you tried this site?
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/
Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher 30-2
On Mon, Apr 2, 2018, 12:04 TL ROSS via CnC-List,
wrote:
> Hi ! I have a 1971 C 35 Mk1 with an atomic 4 engine, lying Etobicoke,
> (near Toronto). The gas fill hose
That C 30 is a Mk-2 design. I just bought the same model this spring and
we love it! I decided on this model for many reasons, I hate 2 footitis for
one, it is very easy to single hand, and it is one beautiful boat!
The family we bought it from had 2 daughters (6&9) and the girls had no
problem
21 matches
Mail list logo