Loss of coolant can sometimes be attributed to a failing head gasket. Look
for milky engine oil, or evidence of the relieving through the coolant
reservoir, and inspect the head gasket externally.
If the gasket is failing, allowing coolant into the cylinder, then when the
engine is running, it
Tom:
Look for an axial gap between the pump impeller and the pump. The sides of
the impeller need to contact the rear of the pump as well as the cover.
Too much wear or too thick of a cover gasket will drop the pump flow to
near zero.
A vented loop on the intake side can cause no flow, a vented
Bruce:
Since it seems to be a deteriorating condition I dodn't think it's the
prop. Is it the factory prop? An overpropped engine will produce more
black smoke at full. As does a clogging mixing elbow or other exhaust
restriction. Low compression will make it harder to start, and very low
Dave:
Since you're getting low voltage between the batt terminal and the
alternator casing, it does sound irrefutable, it's kicking the bucket.
You can remove your alternator and take it to an auto-electric shop. New
electronic module and bearings and you have a good as new rebuilt
alternator.
Tom:
On my last boat, the starter for my 2QM (1 gen older than GM) gave me
trouble, so I removed it and took it to an automotive electric shop. They
told me the original Yanmar starter was actually made by Hitachi, was very
good quality and much more reliable to rebuild than replace with lower
I installed one this spring and was very happy with the quality of the
casting.
It's an exact copy of the original Yanmar, including the 1 1/4" BSP thread
on the outlet.
Grocco makes a 1 1/4 NPT to 1 1/2" ID bronze hose barb that seems like the
the perfect adaptor. Unfortunately 1 1/4" BSP is
Oliver:
For me, the concern would be un-repaired grounding damage from hitting a
rock. A surveyor can identify this.
One thing you can do while viewing the boat in the water is take up the
removable floor boards and inspect for small cracks radiating from the
structural fiberglass around and
Dave:
The copper washers are intended to be a single use seal, so your supposed
to replace them every time you loosen a banjo bolt so maybe not the best
places to bleed. I don't know if the Mcmaster-Carr ones are intended to be
multi use. The fuel will harden the o-ring material if it's made
I agree 100% with Jim. It's an old school design but still completely
serviceable. Gas utilities still install tapered plug valves today for the
shutoff on your gas service.
Eric
On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 9:41 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List
wrote:
> That looks pretty much like mine. The bad ones I
can you post a link to a picture? My 1981 gas an obsolete style Groco
cylinrical looking seacock. The rubber compound in them is NOT compatible
with conventional greases.
Eric
On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 4:19 PM G Collins via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi John
>
> You could try tightening it, you will need
We think of a battery as being a pure reservoir of power. In actual fact,
a battery is a source of power that has an internal resistance that changes
with the state of charge and age/condition of the battery. For this reason
if you have a bank of batteries wired in parallel (as is done in a
Question:
Why would you want a shaft coupling that is easier to take apart, but also
inherently less strong than a solid coupler?
I recently had to take off a stuck coupler to install a drip-less stuffing
box. It was easy to make a puller to apply tons of force to separate it. I
now know I when
Shawn:
2 years ago, I also bought a 35MkII and subsequently let it go after an
unfavorable survey. It was a very difficult decision to make. I really
liked the design and solid build of the 35. In the sea trial it sailed
beautifully, exactly the way I think a boat should sail. The interior
Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 1:40 AM sender via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>> I removed for inspection the exhaust mixing elbow on my Yanmar 3YM20. I
>> was glad I did. It was heavily corroded on the i
I removed for inspection the exhaust mixing elbow on my Yanmar 3YM20. I
was glad I did. It was heavily corroded on the inside and the iron was
extensively deteriorated. The engine is 9 years old and runs in cold, salt
water.
We have a band saw at my work, when the blade is needs replacement, I
The original grey, opaque plastic pipe that was commonplace in the late 70s
& early 80s was polybutylene.
My understanding is the issue with this material is in residential use it
split open causing a flood, in situations where pressures AND temperatures
are high (180F). It was taken off the
Shawn:
Did you see this?
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/boa/d/surrey-psyche-is-for-sale/6792109649.html
Same year & model as mine.
Eric
On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 5:19 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I've not been on a 27, but I am assuming they will be too
John:
For electronic items have a look at Digikey.com I've sourced parts from
them found them efficient.
$75.00 for a decent quality panel mount buzzer that's waterproof doesn't
sound unreasonable to me. A circuit board mountable buzzer element will be
cheap, but then you have a project to make
The size of gas piping is based on an allowable pressure drop. The
regulator should be adjusted to deliver at 11" of water column (approx
0.4psi). For propane appliances the allowable drop is 1". The Canadian
residential gas code I have has 3/8 copper tubing, this would be about 5/16
ID, so
Uh oh, tempers can flare when the new F-N bomb comes out
I think Marlon is basically PA6 or PA66 Nylon. It's become a very common
material in a lot of adverse applications. Makita, Milwaukee, Festool,
Hilti and other heavy duty tool manufacturers use it extensively. The
automotive industry
time when your cockpit drains will not
>> be in use. Besides, seacocks that are inaccessible never get closed. I
>> suggest looking for a place to re-route your drains, to a location above
>> the waterline, without valves, and then permanently retire the through
>> hulls.
I bought earlier this year a C 32. One issue the surveyor pointed out is
the seacocks for the cockpit drains are stuck in the open position. This
boat has spent it's known history in cold salt water on the west coast of
BC.
I'm interested to know if anyone else has had this same type of
I have always done all my own work and prefer Wesport Marina
On Thursday, April 5, 2018, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I am thinking about taking Alera up to Sidney for her bi annual haul out.
> Nothing major, just the usual zinc and bottom paint, etc.
>
> Any
I would rebuild this engine if:
1. you have a sense that the boat has been well maintained, namely the
engine zinc has been routinely replaced. Yanmar added a small amount of
nickel (or was it chromium?) to the cast iron for their marine blocks, this
and the zincs, were seen as
Ahhh... so maybe Bob Dylan was a Yacht Broker before got into music??
You say you never compromise
With the mystery tramp, but now you realize
He's not selling any alibis
As you stare into the vacuum of his eyes
And say: Do you want to make a deal?
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Jerome Tauber
I replied directly
Eric
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 10:18 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Eric,
>
> If you are serious about a 35, check out my boat. No issues, I plan to
> haul in late August (or earlier if opportunity presents) to do regular
> maintenance. I
Richard:
I recently bought a C 35 MkII in Vancouver, Fell in love with the boat.
I had a survey done on it. I knew there were some issues with it, I had
what I thought was a very close look at it. As it happens the surveyor
found a lot more problems to my surprise. so I reluctantly let it go.
If the coupling is still easily removable, I'd say take it out of the boat
and clean the threads on it thoroughly with brake cleaner, the jack bolts
too, and then re-assemble them with lots of blue Locktite 242. Then torque
them to the correct spec for the type of bolt.
Since the brake cleaning
. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Don't know if they have that here.
> What's the active ingredient(s)?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --------------
> *From:* sender via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and other
hardware stores. Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it on
and let it dry on the surface. As it dries, it kills the mold spoors. It
kills the mold and little else. When i first tried it at home I found it
I think the tank cleaning and fresh fuel should be done regardless. I did
that, it helped, the old fuel was the color of weak coffee, the new was
nearly clear.
On the other hand, a clogged exhaust elbow (or any other restriction in the
exhaust) will result in a loss of power under load and a lot
The 2QM15 I had got progressively harder to start as it got colder out (30
- 40 secconds of cranking before it would fire), but would run fine once it
got going and start again instantly several hours later. The engine had
lots of hours so I was concerned the engine was going to need a re-build.
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