Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Yep, that's got to be it, thanks Jim. My boat spent the first 40 years of its 
life in Traverse City. It must have needed a new mainsail in 1982. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Jim Reinardy"  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 6:47:50 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck 
joint (toe rail replacement?) 

Randy, 

I am pretty sure that your "Irish" sail was made by Irish Boat Shop on Little 
Traverse Bay in Michigan. They are still around, but no longer make sails. I 
have a spinnaker that was made by them as well, it's actually signed by David 
Irish on one of the clews. Mine has a cloverleaf logo in green. When I first 
bought the sail, there was a reference to one of their employees that used to 
sew the sails, but I take it she has retired now. You can check them out at 
www.irishboatshop.com . 

Jim Reinardy 
C 30-2 "FIrewater" 
Milwaukee, WI 

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On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:37 PM -0600, "RANDY via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 

Thank you for those interesting details Rob. I've always wondered about the 
makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull #7, 
built September 1972). Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood Sails and 
Ed Botterell. I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from Hood Sails. I've 
also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail from 
Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario ( 
http://www.doyleboston.com/about.html ). 

Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake Ontario 
-area sailmakers? Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"? (that's the 
logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on its sail bag was 
made in 1982). 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Robert Mazza via CnC-List"  
To: "C Mailing List"  
Cc: "Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?) 

Violeta, 

One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all historic, 
of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows Blair Vedder 
(owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom sales), and Ed 
Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher resolution copy of this 
photo. 

Rob Mazza 



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Re: Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

Wow! I'm dismayed to hear you had such a terrible experience. I just reached a 
verbal agreement with them on a C & C  pending a survey and I am awaiting the 
contract.
So far so good, but this is concerning.
Graham Young Cleveland, O.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 10:13 PM, Robin Drew via 
CnC-List wrote:   Bridge Yachts  of Port Dover, ON is a 
terrible boat brokerage firm. I would never recommend them to anyone, and they 
should not be in the boat brokerage business after what I just went through. In 
fact, they should not be in any business.

I purchased a C 33 mark 2 from them earlier this year and everything that you 
could think of going wrong went wrong. Upon receiving the boat from them last 
May, I immediately discovered that the boat had a bent propeller shaft. I then 
had to spend over $2,000 to make the boat seaworthy. 

Upon communicating with Bridge Yachts who had prepared the boat for 
transportation, I was told that they were not responsible for the condition of 
my boat upon delivery. They told me that it was “my problem to fix the bent 
propeller shaft” and that I “either sue the marine survey who did not detect 
the problem” or “pursue the boat owner” (whom they were representing) for 
selling me a damaged vessel.

They happily took their broker fee for the sale of the boat (a healthy amount, 
might I add), and they charged me double of what they quoted me verbally for 
preparation of the boat. 

I tried to reason with them and get them to drop the preparation charges after 
giving me such a horrible experience. However, after 5 months of avoiding legal 
action, they now seem bent on extracting this money from me by legal means yet 
still maintaining their position of no responsibility for selling me damaged 
goods. 

Their lack of accountability is disgraceful and they seem to be completely 
unreasonable when dealing with their customers.
Robin Drew,Montreal  
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Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Bridge Yachts  of Port Dover, ON is a terrible boat brokerage firm. I would 
never recommend them to anyone, and they should not be in the boat brokerage 
business after what I just went through. In fact, they should not be in any 
business.


I purchased a C 33 mark 2 from them earlier this year and everything that you 
could think of going wrong went wrong. Upon receiving the boat from them last 
May, I immediately discovered that the boat had a bent propeller shaft. I then 
had to spend over $2,000 to make the boat seaworthy. 


Upon communicating with Bridge Yachts who had prepared the boat for 
transportation, I was told that they were not responsible for the condition of 
my boat upon delivery. They told me that it was “my problem to fix the bent 
propeller shaft” and that I “either sue the marine survey who did not detect 
the problem” or “pursue the boat owner” (whom they were representing) for 
selling me a damaged vessel.


They happily took their broker fee for the sale of the boat (a healthy amount, 
might I add), and they charged me double of what they quoted me verbally for 
preparation of the boat. 


I tried to reason with them and get them to drop the preparation charges after 
giving me such a horrible experience. However, after 5 months of avoiding legal 
action, they now seem bent on extracting this money from me by legal means yet 
still maintaining their position of no responsibility for selling me damaged 
goods. 


Their lack of accountability is disgraceful and they seem to be completely 
unreasonable when dealing with their customers.

Robin Drew,
Montreal
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Re: Stus-List Strut

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

BRASS BRONZE PROP SHAFT BRACE PROPELLER MOUNT BOAT SHIP SAILBOAT SAIL   

$49.99  

Buy It Now  


12 watching



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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[henry evans via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,
Enjoyed your dissertation on sails.
Correct me if I am wrong, but in our joint venture with North Sails on the MEGA 
, didn't we provide North Sails with the boat ?  Or at least offered them ?   
Between you as the design project manager and me as the sales/marketing project 
manager, and in spite of our advancing age and failing memories, one of us 
should be able to remember :) 
Regarding the other question raised : I think I can shed some light.  One of 
the dealers I handled was Dave Irish at Irish Boat Shop in Harbor Springs, MI 
on Lake Michigan's Grand Traverse Bay.  Dave was very good racing sailor and 
was crew on at least one or two of our Americas Cup 12 Meter teams. He was also 
a senior national officer in what now has become US Sailing.   Jack Culley at 
Sailboats, Inc. was having such good success selling C's that he told Dave he 
should talk to me.  I flew out, we talked and I set him up as a C  dealer 
sometime around 1978 or 79.  He sold a number of boats for us on the eastern 
shore of the lake. Dave had a small loft in conjunction with his dealership and 
boat yards.  He sold them under the "Irish Sails" label. I suspect that is what 
the gentleman is referring to.  
As you may recall, when I first joined C in 1977, you were the one who spent 
several hours explaining to a rookie salesman the basics of NACA foils, the 
details of our unique hull/deck joint and many of the other engineering 
parameters we were using to design and build fast boats. That knowledge helped 
me sell a lot of C's over my years with the company.  I always enjoy reading 
your perspectives on design, the industry and C Yachts. 
Cheers,
Hank 

On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 6:10 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hi Randy,
C did not supply sails as part of the purchase of a new boat. That practice 
started much later and was certainly the case when I was with Hunter. 
Sailmakers competed to supply sails to the individual C owners, sometimes 
through the dealers. While with C I had the pleasure of sailing Bermuda Races 
with Charlie Ulmer and Dave Lindsey of Ulmer Sails, Block Island Race week with 
John Marshall and Hans Fogh of North Sails, Onion Patch with Robby Doyle, and 
many other events with other talented sailmakers from a number of different 
brands. 
A lot of C were sold on the Lakes, and a lot of those Great Lakes sailmakers 
supplied early sails, but not necessarily through C However, that being 
said, C maintained a good working relationship with a number of individual 
sailmakers as stated above, and if asked for advice by the new boat owner, 
could direct them or even introduce them to those individuals. If a sailmaker 
was supplying winning sails and was willing to work to make C perform on the 
race course, then a recommendation would be beneficial for all parties 
involved. 
I'm sorry, but I don't know anything about a sail brand called Irish.
Rob
On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 1:36 PM, RANDY  wrote:

Thank you for those interesting details Rob.  I've always wondered about the 
makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull #7, 
built September 1972).  Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood Sails and 
Ed Botterell.  I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from Hood Sails.  
I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail 
from Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario (http://www.doyleboston.com/ 
about.html).
Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake Ontario 
-area sailmakers?  Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"?  (that's the 
logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on its sail bag was 
made in 1982).
Best Regards,
Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
To: "C Mailing List" 
Cc: "Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" 

Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

Violeta,
One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all historic, 
of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows Blair Vedder 
(owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom sales), and Ed 
Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher resolution copy of this 
photo. 
Rob Mazza




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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Randy,

I am pretty sure that your "Irish" sail was made by Irish Boat Shop on Little 
Traverse Bay in Michigan.  They are still around, but no longer make sails.  I 
have a spinnaker that was made by them as well, it's actually signed by David 
Irish on one of the clews.  Mine has a cloverleaf logo in green.  When I first 
bought the sail, there was a reference to one of their employees that used to 
sew the sails, but I take it she has retired now.  You can check them out at  
www.irishboatshop.com.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "FIrewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS




On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:37 PM -0600, "RANDY via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Thank you for those interesting details Rob.  I've always wondered about the 
makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull #7, 
built September 1972).  Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood Sails and 
Ed Botterell.  I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from Hood Sails.  
I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail 
from Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario 
(http://www.doyleboston.com/about.html).

Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake Ontario 
-area sailmakers?  Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"?  (that's the 
logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on its sail bag was 
made in 1982).

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
To: "C Mailing List" 
Cc: "Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" 

Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

Violeta,

One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all historic, 
of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows Blair Vedder 
(owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom sales), and Ed 
Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher resolution copy of this 
photo.

Rob Mazza

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Re: Stus-List C Night Train

[Jonathan Boocock via CnC-List]

My C 44, hull number 18 built in 1985 was another Blair Vedder "Night
Train". It might be the next "Night Train" after the C 43. The build file
has lots of correspondence between Blair and C about a variety of topics.
The most discussion was about Blair's insistence about the dark blue gel
coat and C being unwilling to guarantee the colour of the gel coat.
I have many of the original sails with "Night Train" printed on the bags
including 4 symmetric spinnakers as well as a genoa staysail, spinnaker
staysail, storm jib and trysail.
Does anybody have any old pictures of the C 44 Night Train?

Jonathan Boocock
C 44
Mor' Childs Play
Kingston
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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

C did not supply sails as part of the purchase of a new boat. That
practice started much later and was certainly the case when I was with
Hunter. Sailmakers competed to supply sails to the individual C owners,
sometimes through the dealers. While with C I had the pleasure of sailing
Bermuda Races with Charlie Ulmer and Dave Lindsey of Ulmer Sails, Block
Island Race week with John Marshall and Hans Fogh of North Sails, Onion
Patch with Robby Doyle, and many other events with other talented
sailmakers from a number of different brands.

A lot of C were sold on the Lakes, and a lot of those Great Lakes
sailmakers supplied early sails, but not necessarily through C However,
that being said, C maintained a good working relationship with a number
of individual sailmakers as stated above, and if asked for advice by the
new boat owner, could direct them or even introduce them to those
individuals. If a sailmaker was supplying winning sails and was willing to
work to make C perform on the race course, then a recommendation would
be beneficial for all parties involved.

I'm sorry, but I don't know anything about a sail brand called Irish.

Rob

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 1:36 PM, RANDY  wrote:

> Thank you for those interesting details Rob.  I've always wondered about
> the makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull
> #7, built September 1972).  Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood
> Sails and Ed Botterell.  I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from
> Hood Sails.  I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole
> topping lift) staysail from Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario (
> http://www.doyleboston.com/about.html).
>
> Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake
> Ontario -area sailmakers?  Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"?
>  (that's the logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on
> its sail bag was made in 1982).
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C Mailing List" 
> *Cc: *"Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" <
> martin.deyo...@outlook.com>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
> Violeta,
>
> One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all
> historic, of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows
> Blair Vedder (owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom
> sales), and Ed Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher
> resolution copy of this photo.
>
> Rob Mazza
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Back in the day, 1970’s, we would have two staysails on board.  A Tall Boy and 
a Low Boy (I think this is the sail originally asked about).  The Tall Boy we 
would use on a reach with either the spinnaker or genoa and we would hoist it 
on a dedicated halyard. spare genoa halyard or an unused wing halyard depending 
on how the boat was equipped.  The Low Boy we would use with the spinnaker on a 
run and hoist it on a spare halyard like the Tall Boy.  We would tack it to the 
windward toerail and it would fill in the area below the spinnaker.  It would 
get very busy trying to fly the chute, blooper and staysail when going down 
wind.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: November-22-16 16:32
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

 

Depends.  Lots of scenarios for this depending on your masthead configuration.  
If you hoist on the windward spinnaker halyard and tack the staysail on the 
windward toe rail (legal in my area for most races) AND the wind is light then 
it may not chafe on the forestay.  Or if you tack to center line and hoist with 
a leeward spin halyard, then the wind will push it away from the forestay 
depending on halyard tension.

I guess one could use a spare jib halyard also.

I'm guessing chafe isn't a big deal.

 

I guess the real question is what does it do for the sail plan?  Does hoisting 
it from the masthead project it more forward and in better air?  Or does 
hoisting it from the topping lift open it up more away from the headsail or 
chute?

I'm not a huge fan of staysails anyway.  I think there's a lot of truth to the 
old saying "you gain a half knot when you hoist a staysail and you gain a half 
knot when you drop it".

I may ask some of the really good sailors in my club.  I'm curious now.

Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[RANDY via CnC-List]

My opinion is not very qualified - I haven't yet figured out how to use my 
staysails very effectively. Next year I'll try to follow this article's 
prescriptions for staysails more closely: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/racelist/racelist.htm . 

Grenadine came with two staysails: one which hoists to the masthead (called a 
"tallboy" in the above article I believe), and one which hoists only to the 
pole lift sheave. The tallboy is made of drifter material; the shorter one of 
heavier material. Grenadine has two headsail halyards in addition to a 
spinnaker halyard, so I use one of the headsail halyards to hoist the tallboy. 

My pole lift halyard is rope spliced to cable, and when hoisting the pole lift 
staysail with it, the rope part of the halyard comes all the way out of the 
mast. If I want to cleat it on the horn cleat on the dorade box, I'm tying the 
cleat hitch with the cable part. I'll have to figure out a better solution. 

In theory I could fly a triple-headed rig, and the above article mentions that. 
But I've never tried that. I've only flown my staysails one at a time. 

Tacking is a PITA because some member of the crew usually has to walk the genoa 
clew around the staysail's luff. With a triple-headed rig I'm sure it would be 
even messier. 

I flew staysails in light air a few times, looking for more power. To me it 
seemed they were interfering with the genoa's shape and maybe not providing 
much benefit. But I was noticing that mainly upwind, whereas the above article 
says to use them on reaches, and I may have had them under-trimmed for the 
light air I was in, per the above article. 

The good news is, according to a senior US Sailing judge in my region, I can 
fly them legally under my current PHRF rating, because my RSA's PHRF rules are 
basically mute on the specific point. So if I can learn how to fly them 
effectively I think it could be a good advantage. 

In general I think I would only want to use them in lighter air. I don't have a 
speed problem when the wind is up :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis"  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 12:36:37 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails 


On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail 



Interesting comment. Never considered flying a staysail from a pole topping 
lift. We always hoist staysails on a spinnaker halyard. 

Opinions? 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Depends.  Lots of scenarios for this depending on your masthead
configuration.  If you hoist on the windward spinnaker halyard and tack the
staysail on the windward toe rail (legal in my area for most races) AND the
wind is light then it may not chafe on the forestay.  Or if you tack to
center line and hoist with a leeward spin halyard, then the wind will push
it away from the forestay depending on halyard tension.

I guess one could use a spare jib halyard also.

I'm guessing chafe isn't a big deal.

I guess the real question is what does it do for the sail plan?  Does
hoisting it from the masthead project it more forward and in better air?
Or does hoisting it from the topping lift open it up more away from the
headsail or chute?

I'm not a huge fan of staysails anyway.  I think there's a lot of truth to
the old saying "you gain a half knot when you hoist a staysail and you gain
a half knot when you drop it".

I may ask some of the really good sailors in my club.  I'm curious now.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 1:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Doesn't a spin halyard chafe if hoisting a staysail?
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 2:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift)
>>> staysail
>>
>>
>> Interesting comment.  Never considered flying a staysail from a pole
>> topping lift.  We always hoist staysails on a spinnaker halyard.
>>
>> Opinions?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Doesn't a spin halyard chafe if hoisting a staysail?

Joel

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 2:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift)
>> staysail
>
>
> Interesting comment.  Never considered flying a staysail from a pole
> topping lift.  We always hoist staysails on a spinnaker halyard.
>
> Opinions?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift)
> staysail


Interesting comment.  Never considered flying a staysail from a pole
topping lift.  We always hoist staysails on a spinnaker halyard.

Opinions?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thank you for those interesting details Rob. I've always wondered about the 
makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull #7, 
built September 1972). Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood Sails and 
Ed Botterell. I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from Hood Sails. I've 
also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail from 
Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario ( 
http://www.doyleboston.com/about.html ). 

Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake Ontario 
-area sailmakers? Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"? (that's the 
logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on its sail bag was 
made in 1982). 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Robert Mazza via CnC-List"  
To: "C Mailing List"  
Cc: "Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?) 

Violeta, 

One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all historic, 
of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows Blair Vedder 
(owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom sales), and Ed 
Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher resolution copy of this 
photo. 

Rob Mazza 

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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

Violeta,

One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all
historic, of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows
Blair Vedder (owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom
sales), and Ed Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher
resolution copy of this photo.

Rob Mazza

On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 12:46 AM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Martin,
>
> That's all great information, thanks a lot.
>
> Marek - thanks for the link to the vendor in Maine. I don't know much
> about sealants, so it help to get recommendations.
>
> More comments inline on specific topics - lots of food for thought!
>
> Violeta
>
> On Tue, Nov 15, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Martin DeYoung <
> martin.deyo...@outlook.com> wrote:
>
>
>> From MIT's sailing web site I find "X Dimension" was originally "Night
>> Train".  I have pictures of "Night Train" being built at Bruckmann's with
>> the design/build team and Blair Vedder standing in the partially completed
>> hull before the deck is added.  The deck is upside down next to the hull.
>> (You will be able to see the hull and deck flanges.)  I obtained the
>> pictures from Nick Vedder (Blair's son) who now lives in the Seattle area,
>> we are members at the same yacht club.  We met down on Calypso one
>> afternoon to talk 43's.  Nick now owns a Beneteau 52 named "Night Train".
>>
> Have you seen these photos? http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/
> index.php/X-Dimension_history
>
> Do you have other photos, too?
>
> I will send the digital pics to your email in the next few days.
>> Regarding the C drawings, I have both paper and digital copies of all the
>> 43 drawing the museum curator could locate.  I expect you are only looking
>> for any hull to deck details.  If you agree to send the museum a donation
>> for each digital pic we should avoid any copy right issues, and the museum
>> is providing a great service to us C aficionados.  IIRC the digital
>> copies were $5 each.  How much build detail are you interested in?
>>
> Payment for photos, drawings, service, etc., is up to the MIT sailing
> master, so I'll let him know. I've no idea if that can be processed as
> donation to the museum, but I'm sure that MIT will respect all copyright,
> so no worries. I'm emailing you separately about the copies.
>
> Not only hull to deck details actually. I am interested in all structural
> details relevant to XD.
>
>
>> >... If we were to reuse some of the toe rail, how would one clean and
>> treat that?
>>
>> -- We have used scotch bright type adhesive wheels on a drill motor to
>> clean off the corrosion, prime with a zinc aluminum spray primer, then
>> painted black with marine grade engine spray paint.  Others here have
>> recommended Rust-o-ileum paint.
>>
>> >... What about custom extrusion, if we can't find a match for the T-rail?
>>
>> -- Custom extrusions are very expensive. I have done several for aircraft
>> related products and the tooling is a little pricey for a small
>> quantity. For a short or partial section having something machined and
>> anodized may be affordable.  For a long section I expect you could find a
>> similar C related toe rail section that would fit in.  Klacko has been
>> mentioned as one of the hardware suppliers for the 14 or 15 "Limited" C
>> built by Bruckmanns.
>>
>
> I'll pass this information to the guys and gals working on XD. I am out of
> state now, so I am only helping with the research.
>
>
>> >... And wouldn't the hull and deck separate, once the bolts are removed?
>> It seems essential to do one section at a time. How big a section?
>>
>> --If I was doing this project I would temporarily replace each bolt as it
>> became possible.  The 43's have each athwart ships and longitudinal
>> bulkheads glassed to the deck so the risk of any hull distortion is nil so
>> don't stress over a missed bolt or two.
>>
> Oh my. I *finally* get this! Of course, bulkheads would be glassed to the
> deck, too. Boat building is new to me, but I have structural engineering
> background, so I should have thought of it myself. I didn't until you
> mentioned it. I was too focused on the hull/deck joint along the perimeter.
>
> Not to worry much then, I agree. Just proceed with caution, etc. Those
> drawings will really help, too!
>
> Now I want to build a boat myself. The boat I want doesn't seem to exist
> yet. But that's for another discussion. :)
>
> >... Finally, out of curiosity, I found Evening Star (with the teak rail)
>> listed for sale online. She is beautiful! But XD is better. :)
>>
>> -- I also believe Calypso (nee Arieto (70's based in Boston), Phantom
>> and Esta Es based on the Great Lakes) is better.. but Dave Utley's
>> restoration and upgrades to "Evening Star" made her the queen of the west
>> coast 43's.  Dave traded "Evening Star" for the C 48 now known as
>> "Morning Star", completed a similar restoration/upgrade then sailed her up
>> and down the east coast.  "Morning Star" is also 

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Hi all

One more post from me to say thanks again to everyone who responded to my
inquiry. I got so much good advice and information, which will be very
helpful as we work on our C 43' boat in the off season in New England.
Thank you!

David - fyi since you asked - MIT owns X Dimension. David Collins, who
donated XD to MIT in 2011, left many useful notes for us. We didn't have
the drawings, so I assume he didn't either. Martin DeYoung owns XD's
"sister boat" Calypso: hull #1 of the same limited edition C 43' in the
1970s.

The conversation has moved offline now that I have made some great contacts
thanks to this list. We got the drawings from Martin and lots of great
advice, not only about toe rail, but also about other relevant upgrades,
which we are considering for XD and he has already done on his boat.

The marine museum's director Doug Cowie, as well as others from this list
who emailed me privately, have been very helpful too! Someone even walked
down the dock in Seattle to let Martin know when I first posted my inquiry
here. I didn't catch the name, but thank you very much too, dock angel in
Seattle, whoever you are. This list is the best. (I am patting myself on
the back for being so smart to join the forum :=)

When I get the nerve, I will post questions about my own boat too. She
doesn't exist yet, i.e., most likely exists, but I have not found her yet.

Happy (American) Thanksgiving -- and thanks again everyone who helped from
the US, Canada, and beyond. Work on XD continues as we speak. If you are
interested, you can follow what's happening with the best boat ever built
by C (ok, I know, getting a bit carried away here :=), via the MIT
bluewater wiki (http://sailing.mit.edu/bluewater). Feel free to drop me a
line anytime, too.

Sincerely,

Violeta

Skipper of MIT's X Dimension
Custom C 43' 1973


On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 10:47 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Martin,
>
> You own X Dimension?  she was one of 2 43s owned by my friends who kept
> them  here in Marion.
>
> If you have any questions I can pass them on.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List 
> Date: 11/14/16 22:34 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Martin DeYoung 
> Cc: Violeta Ivanova , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
> Martin
>
> Great to connect with you! (Hull #1, eh?) Yes, our custom C 43' is X
> Dimension. We call her XD. Here is more about her: http://sailing.mit.edu/
> bluewater. She sails like a dream! I love that boat. It will be fantastic
> to get the C 43' drawings from you. I'll email you separately about that.
>
> FYI to the list -- I called the maritime museum in Kingston, ON, earlier
> today. The museum is relocating, and the archives will be inaccessible at
> least until late spring 2017. Since we can't get anything from them until
> then, thanks even more for all the help here!
>
> Also answering to Ken, Leslie, Rob, Michael - thanks for the links,
> pictures, and related details. Very helpful to finally "see" that joint,
> even though ours is slightly different (T shaped toe rail, bolted on both
> sides).
>
> I am pretty sure the toe rail on XD is the original one. We have never
> changed it, and the previous owner never mentions changing it in the notes
> he left for us. It's unlikely that the original owner(s) ever replaced toe
> rail that was relatively new at their time. It must be the original.
>
> It seems the consensus is no vinyl. So butyl on the hull flange bonds to
> butyl under the deck edge, all that bolted through, incorporating the
> aluminum toe rail? More butyl between deck and toe rail, so I guess that
> seals the bolts?
>
> Since people asked, I don't have photos of the worst worn out parts on our
> toe rail, sorry. The photos I posted show only the corrosion. If we were to
> reuse some of the toe rail, how would one clean and treat that? What about
> custom extrusion, if we can't find a match for the T-rail?
>
> And wouldn't the hull and deck separate, once the bolts are removed? It
> seems essential to do one section at a time. How big a section?
>
> Finally, out of curiosity, I found Evening Star (with the teak rail)
> listed for sale online. She is beautiful! But XD is better. :)
>
> Violeta
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 14, 2016 at 4:27 PM, Martin DeYoung <
> martin.deyo...@outlook.com> wrote:
>
>> Violeta,
>>
>>
>>
>> Lee Youngblood forwarded your question and several replies to me.  I have
>> been tied up with some business related extra work (long story for another
>> time) and have not been able to follow the cnc-list as closely as I would
>> like.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am one of two owners of a 1971 C 43, hull #1.  We have spent the last
>> 2 years restoring the deck after 40+ years or hard use racing and
>> cruising.  We have owned it since 1998 and have worked on 

Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

maybe, simply, an old one. The last time I worked with one was probably 5 years 
ago and it was already a few years old.

Marek

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 09:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Toughbooks are widely used by police, fire, military, and construction 
personnel, specifically because they can be dropped, splashed, and viewed in 
direct sunlight outdoors. If someone has trouble seeing a Toughbook outdoors, 
it is either broken, a counterfeit, or had the wrong display installed as a 
repair.

Bill Bina
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

a few years ago the yard hauled my Viking 33 and had the strap on the 
prop shaft.  They broke the strut and bent the brand new shaft.


we had to pin the strut back together and have a new one molded at a 
local foundry.  that was $550.  the yard took care of all the repairs 
due to the haul out accident.


the shaft I had bought and replaced the year prior was about $500.  I 
rebuilt the stuffing box, new hose, high end clamps, packing, and 
replaced the cutlass bearing at the same time as the shaft replacement.  
I did all the work myself and probably spent around $750ish which 
included the machine shop truing the prop on the shaft.


It's a bear of a job but really only because the access was really tight 
and some of the wrenching can be very hard.  Nothing really all that 
complex.  Mostly just parts replacing, providing that tube is fine.  
Given the fact that you will be removing the strut, removing the cutlass 
should be simple bench work (hopefully that isn't bent).  Aligning 
everything back up again is where you need to be careful.


Danny


On 11/22/2016 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


We did this on Persistence.  Other end of line was attached to a 
stanchion.  Strut was bent and minor damage to stern tube.


Suggest you remove fuel tank as suggested earlier and inspect stern 
tube carefully as well as shaft for any bends.  Have some one check 
the alignment of the shaft with the engine as well once the strut is 
rebidded.  Might also be a good time to change out cutlass bearing if 
it has any wear


This was a $6000 job for us.  We had a worn cutlass bearing which had 
a wear spot on shaft so those were both replaced (only due to the 
wear) and accounted for $2000 of this repair


Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Tom Alessi via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, November 21, 2016 4:57 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Tom Alessi
*Subject:* Stus-List Fw: Strut

Hey,

Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and 
a loose prop strut when the boat was hauled.


Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.

Thx

Tom Alessi
C 36

Rockaway Beach, NY



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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Toughbooks are widely used by police, fire, military, and construction 
personnel, specifically because they can be dropped, splashed, and 
viewed in direct sunlight outdoors. If someone has trouble seeing a 
Toughbook outdoors, it is either broken, a counterfeit, or had the wrong 
display installed as a repair.


Bill Bina

On 11/22/2016 9:09 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Some Toughbooks have transreflective screens and/or very bright 
backlights.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Black-Panasonic-Toughbook-CF-30-Touchscreen-GPS-160GB-DVDCDRW-Extras-/322332887225?hash=item4b0c8988b9:g:vLcAAOSw7XZXiAve

This one has a 1000 NIT screen (very bright) and built in GPS.

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, November 21, 2016 23:08
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

You hardly ever need 90 W; that is for charging the battery _/and/_ 
running the computer. Most of the time you should be fine with about 
20 W (this is what I measured on a number of occasions when I really 
wanted to know), but this is still double what your Pi 3 draws.


If you are into that old laptops, you can easily have a Toughbook for 
about $300 (or even less). Btw. Toughbooks, at least the ones I used 
in the past, had terrible screens. If you complain about iPads in the 
sun, forget about the Toughbook. You should have a nicely dimmed room 
to be able to read the screen correctly. But they had the touch screen 
for decades.


Marek




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List auto pilot

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Larry,

I had a previous generation Ray wheel pilot on my 35-3.  It worked well for
the uses you described.  Over about 12 knots of wind it would start to
struggle unless the rig was really balanced.

Joel

On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 9:39 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Larry, you should contact Fred Street of this List; he has access to the
> parts and equipment needed and knows what will work and what to stay away
> fromand he has a C I sail on a river and use my auto pilot very
> much like you described;  I was/am very happy with his recommendations.
>
>
> Richard
> S/V Bushmark4 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Larry via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Larry 
> Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2016 6:25 pm
> Subject: Stus-List auto pilot
>
> My st4000 plus auto pilot went belly up. Everything is working except for
> the controller. When I switch to Auto I get the common low battery error
> and no data received. I have done a complete job of troubleshooting and it
> is the control unit/display. Raymarine no longer service this unit. I
> located one place in Florida that works on them, but I don’t want to go
> that uncertain route. I am going to remove and replace with another unit. I
> just sail the Puget Sound and never get into the blue water. I only use the
> Autopilot to single or short handle my boat. Mainly raising and lowering
> sails or taking a head break when I single handle it. I never use it in
> rough water. My boat weighs in around 14,500 lbs. I am contemplating the
> ev-100 spx-5. Anyone have any suggestions. I want to keep in simple. My
> wheel unit and compass work fine.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Try Citri-Strip adhesive remover.  I used it to remove sail number goo.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 5:16 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the recommendation - and for what does not work. I see they
> have Good Off at Lowe's. I will try this in the Spring.
>
> Damian
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Some Toughbooks have transreflective screens and/or very bright backlights.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Black-Panasonic-Toughbook-CF-30-Touchscreen-GPS-160GB-DVDCDRW-Extras-/322332887225?hash=item4b0c8988b9:g:vLcAAOSw7XZXiAve
This one has a 1000 NIT screen (very bright) and built in GPS.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 23:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

You hardly ever need 90 W; that is for charging the battery _and_ running the 
computer. Most of the time you should be fine with about 20 W (this is what I 
measured on a number of occasions when I really wanted to know), but this is 
still double what your Pi 3 draws.

If you are into that old laptops, you can easily have a Toughbook for about 
$300 (or even less). Btw. Toughbooks, at least the ones I used in the past, had 
terrible screens. If you complain about iPads in the sun, forget about the 
Toughbook. You should have a nicely dimmed room to be able to read the screen 
correctly. But they had the touch screen for decades.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 13:30
To: C List >
Cc: Josh Muckley >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer


Joe,

I totally agree and understand about the cost of a screen bringing the project 
to a halt.  FYI a Raspberry Pi can be set up to be "headless" (ie: no screen).  
When you need to see the system you can use any device (cell phone, laptop, 
tablet) to remote desktop in.  My original use for the Pi was to multiplex my 
nmea 0183 signals.  This quickly grew to include receiving AIS and backing up 
the GPS input.  When the new Pi 3 came out my needs grew again to including 
running OpenCPN.  The latest price for a Raspberry Pi 3 is $35 and you can do 
all of the aforementioned activities.

The biggest reason to use a Pi over a laptop is power draw.  The Pi 3 max draw 
is 2.5A@5v=12.5w.  Thus 1amp@12v.  My laptop power supply 
is 90w.  Thus 7.5A@12v.  The laptop draws 7.5 times as much 
power to do all the same functions.  With the Pi, I can leave it running full 
time and then use a laptop/tablet/cell phone for a few moments and then leave 
it in hibernate/standby until the next time I need it.  This amounts to a 
considerable power savings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 21, 2016 12:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
2 year old! HA!
My boat laptop is from 1999 – an IBM Thinkpad 600E. It has a wonderful sharp 
display and can run on straight 12 volt input. I do have the car adapter that 
feeds it 16 volts or so to keep the battery up, but I can do without it. It 
does nothing else but run OpenCPN. It has W98SE on it and NOTHING else but 
OpenCPN. It never ever connects to the internet, plays games, or anything else. 
This has proven to be very reliable for years now.
Every time I look at a Raspberry PI or Mini-ITX box or anything else not a 
laptop, the expense of a decent screen brings the project to a halt. It just 
doesn’t make sense with so many laptops around for cheap. This is my happy 
hunting ground for cheap laptops, www.pcretro.com. $250 
or so is more than enough budget for a boat PC unless you want to find a 
Panasonic Toughbook, which would likely be more.
I did manage to score a 2016 CMAP cartridge for the East Coast for $90 on 
Fleabay, so I am going to get my Standard-Horizon 180 plotter set up at the 
helm. My biggest complaints about PC navigation are the power consumed and not 
having it at the helm. Hopefully I’ll get waypoints transferring correctly so I 
can lay out my course on the PC and send it up to the SH plotter.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I hit something that bent the prop and the shaft. My insurance covered what was 
about a $2,000 job. The yard checked the strut and as far as I know it was OK. 
I don't know if you have insurance or want to claim this, but it can add up in 
a hurry if the yard is doing it.
The PSS carbon shaft seal and cutless bearing were replaced while all this was 
apart.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 08:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

We did this on Persistence.  Other end of line was attached to a stanchion.  
Strut was bent and minor damage to stern tube.

Suggest you remove fuel tank as suggested earlier and inspect stern tube 
carefully as well as shaft for any bends.  Have some one check the alignment of 
the shaft with the engine as well once the strut is rebidded.  Might also be a 
good time to change out cutlass bearing if it has any wear

This was a $6000 job for us.  We had a worn cutlass bearing which had a wear 
spot on shaft so those were both replaced (only due to the wear) and accounted 
for $2000 of this repair

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Alessi 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 4:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Strut


Hey,
Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a loose 
prop strut when the boat was hauled.
Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
Thx

Tom Alessi
C 36
Rockaway Beach, NY
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Stus-List Strut

[Tom Alessi via CnC-List]

Thanks for the input. 
I'd love to see any pix. Feel free to send to my email.
Thx

Tom Alessi
S/V ANDIAMO
646-283-1580
tagraph...@optonline.net
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We did this on Persistence.  Other end of line was attached to a stanchion.  
Strut was bent and minor damage to stern tube.

Suggest you remove fuel tank as suggested earlier and inspect stern tube 
carefully as well as shaft for any bends.  Have some one check the alignment of 
the shaft with the engine as well once the strut is rebidded.  Might also be a 
good time to change out cutlass bearing if it has any wear

This was a $6000 job for us.  We had a worn cutlass bearing which had a wear 
spot on shaft so those were both replaced (only due to the wear) and accounted 
for $2000 of this repair

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Alessi 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 4:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Strut


Hey,
Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a loose 
prop strut when the boat was hauled.
Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
Thx

Tom Alessi
C 36
Rockaway Beach, NY
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Frank via CnC-List]

Tom,

About 5 years ago I had to reposition my strut because the engine and prop 
shaft were not aligned.
Turns out that they were never in alignment.  I had to reposition the engine by 
making new engine mount brackets.  But that is another story.
I removed the strut and did all of the prep work.  The yard positioned and 
installed the strut.  I bedded it in the hull and finished the job.
It took about 4 days from start to finish.
The job is not difficult and I wish that I would have done the work I paid the 
yard to do.  I found all four bolts that hold the strut to the hull leaking 
water four years later.

Good luck,

Frank
C 38LF, S/N: 001
Rose City YC
Portland, Oregon



From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Alessi 
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Strut


Hey,
Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a loose 
prop strut when the boat was hauled.
Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
Thx

Tom Alessi
C 36
Rockaway Beach, NY




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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Damian Greene via CnC-List]

Thanks for the recommendation - and for what does not work. I see they have Good Off at Lowe's. I will try this in the Spring.
Damian
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