Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
To me the biggest issue is the rules. You don’t have a game unless there are rules whether we’re play a board game, baseball, football, hockey or sailboat racing. There is no game unless we are all onboard with the rules. In most sports we have umpires or referees to keep everything on the straight and narrow but In sailboat racing, for the most part, we referee ourselves and in orders to do that we must each know the rules. Our rules may seem very daunting and hard to understand but they can be learned and should be by those participating in regattas whether they are competing in the JAM or spinnaker division. Sometimes those we encourage to participate in racing are not interested in taking the time to learn the rules and opt to stay away or hide in the JAM division where they think the rules seem less critical. Wrong, rules apply and are important in all divisions. In my option all organizations who sponsor races should also offer racing rule clinics on a regular basis. Actually, learning the rules and how to apply them can be a fun part of the game and with a beer and some refreshments clinics can help all competitors to improve their game and enhance the fleet’s participation and togetherness. My 2 cents. Dave. Kaseler SLY 1975 C 33 Sent from my iPad > On Dec 19, 2019, at 10:52 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List > wrote: > > Same here in Oriental. > They call it a pursuit race with the varying start and no calamity > as you reignited my spark from 29 + year ago and I was hooked immediately! > Well truth be told I knew I wanted to race and big part of why I bought the > C and in amazing condition for the price ! With full spin gear, 2015 sails > new canvas ... oh and used 2-3 times a year ! Lol > > John Conklin > S/V Halcyon > >> On Dec 19, 2019, at 11:40 AM, Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> Making the plunge from JAM to Spin doesn't need to be terrifying or >> expensive (unless you want it to.) You can find a used chute for a couple >> hundred bucks online and as others mentioned a few blocks and line and >> you're going. Once you've learned to tame the pole and kite then go and >> spend the money on those fancy black sails and a new properly cut colorful >> one... or dont. Iv'e found that we loose more often not becasue we have >> older sails but because we blow a tack or spinnaker douse. All of the money >> in the world won't make up the 2 minutes you spend trying to get that >> hourglass out of the kite. >> >> That said, Chicago has a pretty robust racing scene on weekends with 5 major >> clubs working together to provide lots of events and variety. In order to >> help develop those white sail JAM guys and get them out on weekends where >> things are more competitive we started what is referred to as our Casual >> series of races. The idea is to remove as many of the barriers as possible; >> it's like a drug once you've gotten a taste you're hooked. Basically the RC >> assigns a phrf rating to boats without a certificate and then the start is a >> 15 minute rolling start. That way folks that are intimidated by jockeying >> around can hang back and not be penalized. The course are usually around >> 8-10 miles long so plenty of time to make maneuvers etc. We've typically >> seen 10-20 boats out on a given saturday and after a few seasons we're >> starting to see some of them come out into the racing fleet. >> >> Cheers, >> Luke >> 1985 35-3 Zella >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up...
Chuck, Glad you found my email of value! I mentioned welsh plugs at the conclusion of my previous email. I misspoke. They are welch plugs. Here is a video for removing and replacing. https://youtu.be/Jd7KjEo688k Here is a link to an welch plug assortment kit. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Aluminum-Plug-Assortment_p_3560.html Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Dec 21, 2019, 1:00 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote: > Thanks Josh, > > I printed your email and might tackle a few small engines I have at home. > The tools recommended are cheap, so I ordered those. > > Thanks, > Chuck, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md > > On December 20, 2019 at 9:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Often times the fuel filter is in the connection to the tank or actually > attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. They make acetylene > torch tip cleaners that are micro fine round files. They work very well > for cleaning the jets. As you use the files, you can feel a dramatic > difference between the gunk/varnish and the bronze/brass metal of the fuel > jets. > > Torch tip Cleaner > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014D1M62G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C-x.DbQNPP74P > > Carburetor Adjustment Tool, 9 Piece Carb Adjusting Turn-Up Screwdriver > Tool Kit > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N363CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bby.Db47EQT6E > > If you have any adjustment screws they may help with the performance. In > the case of a single screw it is the minimum butterfly position primarily > used for ensuring that a bare minimum of air makes it into the engine > during starting. Once the engine starts, the governor and throttle will > counter act on one another to adjust the butterfly to maintain air and fuel > mix and subsequently engine speed. Depending on the engine and carb this > screw may continue to control the minimum idle speed. This single screw > also ensures that the butterfly doesn't get jammed shut. > > If you have more than 1 screw it is most likely that you have a total of > 3. 1 is off by itself and acts as the minimum butterfly position as > described above. The other 2 will be found together and act as the min > throttle fuel adjust and the max throttle fuel adjust. Min throttle is > always flowing fuel so it will affect the idle speed and the max throttle > fuel mix. Every time you touch the min throttle fuel screw you will > probably have to revisit the idle speed screw and the max throttle screw. > > Before I begin making adjustments, I like to document where I am when I > start. I slowly count the turns clockwise on all screws until they lightly > stop. I write the three numbers down as reference settings. Then I reset > all 3 screws to their as found position. If you have absolutely no good > idea where the screws should be then start each of them one turn open > (counterclockwise) from full shut (clockwise). Most of these engines > require a choke when cold and a full throttle for starting. This primes > the engine and ensures that the fuel lines, fuel bowl, and carb are full of > fuel. The choke ensures a rich A/F mix for cold starting. If a priming > bulb exists then pumping the bulb until it is full of fuel for a few pumps > primes the engine as well. When pulling the cord, after the first sputter > you can take the choke to half (if it has one) or off if it doesn't. Keep > full throttle and retry the pull start. If it won't start then verify > spark. Since full throttle is being applied, tweaking open the max fuel > screw a 1/4 turn at a time will admit more fuel. If it still doesn't start > then it suggests a clog in the high throttle fuel path. > > Once it starts, run it at full/elevated throttle for a few minutes to warm > up the engine. You know it is warm when you can take the choke all the way > off and the engine surges up instead of dogging down. This does assume > that the fueling is already close. If it is way off then an unchoked > operation may not yet be possible. Now you can start the real fuel > adjustments. Release the throttle and see if it stays running. If it > starts to die then goose the throttle enough to keep it running. If it is > slow to respond then open the min fuel screw slightly until the response is > no longer sluggish. Once the response is no longer sluggish you can tweak > the minimum idle screw such that it just barely keeps the engine going > smooth and even. Goose the engine again to ensure no sluggishness. If > needed repeat. At this point definitely make sure that the choke is off. > > Once the minimum throttle fuel and idle speed screws are adjusted then you > can move on to the max throttle fuel screw. Attempt to slowly raise > throttle until full (WOT). If the engine dogs down along the way then it > may be getting too much fuel. Tweak closed on the max throttle fuel screw > and see if it improves. If it doesn't dog down and you can get to full > throttle then hold it there
Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up...
Thanks Josh, I printed your email and might tackle a few small engines I have at home. The tools recommended are cheap, so I ordered those. Thanks, Chuck, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md > On December 20, 2019 at 9:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Often times the fuel filter is in the connection to the tank or actually > attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. They make acetylene > torch tip cleaners that are micro fine round files. They work very well for > cleaning the jets. As you use the files, you can feel a dramatic difference > between the gunk/varnish and the bronze/brass metal of the fuel jets. > > Torch tip Cleaner > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014D1M62G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C-x.DbQNPP74P > > Carburetor Adjustment Tool, 9 Piece Carb Adjusting Turn-Up Screwdriver > Tool Kit > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N363CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bby.Db47EQT6E > > If you have any adjustment screws they may help with the performance. In > the case of a single screw it is the minimum butterfly position primarily > used for ensuring that a bare minimum of air makes it into the engine during > starting. Once the engine starts, the governor and throttle will counter act > on one another to adjust the butterfly to maintain air and fuel mix and > subsequently engine speed. Depending on the engine and carb this screw may > continue to control the minimum idle speed. This single screw also ensures > that the butterfly doesn't get jammed shut. > > If you have more than 1 screw it is most likely that you have a total of > 3. 1 is off by itself and acts as the minimum butterfly position as > described above. The other 2 will be found together and act as the min > throttle fuel adjust and the max throttle fuel adjust. Min throttle is > always flowing fuel so it will affect the idle speed and the max throttle > fuel mix. Every time you touch the min throttle fuel screw you will probably > have to revisit the idle speed screw and the max throttle screw. > > Before I begin making adjustments, I like to document where I am when I > start. I slowly count the turns clockwise on all screws until they lightly > stop. I write the three numbers down as reference settings. Then I reset > all 3 screws to their as found position. If you have absolutely no good idea > where the screws should be then start each of them one turn open > (counterclockwise) from full shut (clockwise). Most of these engines require > a choke when cold and a full throttle for starting. This primes the engine > and ensures that the fuel lines, fuel bowl, and carb are full of fuel. The > choke ensures a rich A/F mix for cold starting. If a priming bulb exists > then pumping the bulb until it is full of fuel for a few pumps primes the > engine as well. When pulling the cord, after the first sputter you can take > the choke to half (if it has one) or off if it doesn't. Keep full throttle > and retry the pull start. If it won't start then verify spark. Since full > throttle is being applied, tweaking open the max fuel screw a 1/4 turn at a > time will admit more fuel. If it still doesn't start then it suggests a clog > in the high throttle fuel path. > > Once it starts, run it at full/elevated throttle for a few minutes to > warm up the engine. You know it is warm when you can take the choke all the > way off and the engine surges up instead of dogging down. This does assume > that the fueling is already close. If it is way off then an unchoked > operation may not yet be possible. Now you can start the real fuel > adjustments. Release the throttle and see if it stays running. If it starts > to die then goose the throttle enough to keep it running. If it is slow to > respond then open the min fuel screw slightly until the response is no longer > sluggish. Once the response is no longer sluggish you can tweak the minimum > idle screw such that it just barely keeps the engine going smooth and even. > Goose the engine again to ensure no sluggishness. If needed repeat. At this > point definitely make sure that the choke is off. > > Once the minimum throttle fuel and idle speed screws are adjusted then > you can move on to the max throttle fuel screw. Attempt to slowly raise > throttle until full (WOT). If the engine dogs down along the way then it may > be getting too much fuel. Tweak closed on the max throttle fuel screw and > see if it improves. If it doesn't dog down and you can get to full throttle > then hold it there and attempt to tweak the max fuel screw open. The RPM > should climb. Continue until the point where it begins to die and then turn > back closed until max RPM. > > Recheck all settings by releasing the throttle and letting it idle, make > sure that it doesn't die. Then goose it a few times to make sure that it is > not sluggish. Then full throttle to make sure that it
Re: Stus-List Recent Increase in Spam?
Neil, Stu, Ken, John, et al Thanks for the responses. Did not think an ISP would be a likely source, but just this morning received a subject line only offer for "Renewal by Anderson" with a link to who knows where [maybe that Saudi prince will send me some $ too] from a Gmail address on a different email account I have with the same ISP, so that seems a likely culprit. Thanks, Brian From: CnC-List On Behalf Of schiller via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 8:55 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller Subject: Re: Stus-List Recent Increase in Spam? Brian, More likely that optonline.net has been hacked. My ISP was hacked twice in the 15 years that we have been with them (an extremely rural provider). The ISP did all the right things of changing passwords and installing spam filters etc., but I still get a lot of activity into the spam filter. Neil Schiller 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC On 12/20/2019 8:09 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List wrote: In the past week I have been getting 4-5 spam emails every day on this address, never had any before. I use this address only for this list and one other sailing list, so in theory it should not really be "out there" other than the few posts and rare emails directly to list members. Has anybody noticed an increase in spam? Does this mean this list [or the other list] or someone on it has been "hacked?" Is it possible some entity has joined either list for nefarious purposes? The "Junk" email filters are not picking these up. Thanks, Brian ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
