Chuck, Glad you found my email of value!
I mentioned welsh plugs at the conclusion of my previous email. I misspoke. They are welch plugs. Here is a video for removing and replacing. https://youtu.be/Jd7KjEo688k Here is a link to an welch plug assortment kit. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Aluminum-Plug-Assortment_p_3560.html Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Dec 21, 2019, 1:00 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > Thanks Josh, > > I printed your email and might tackle a few small engines I have at home. > The tools recommended are cheap, so I ordered those. > > Thanks, > Chuck, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md > > On December 20, 2019 at 9:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Often times the fuel filter is in the connection to the tank or actually > attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. They make acetylene > torch tip cleaners that are micro fine round files. They work very well > for cleaning the jets. As you use the files, you can feel a dramatic > difference between the gunk/varnish and the bronze/brass metal of the fuel > jets. > > Torch tip Cleaner > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014D1M62G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C-x.DbQNPP74P > > Carburetor Adjustment Tool, 9 Piece Carb Adjusting Turn-Up Screwdriver > Tool Kit > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N363CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bby.Db47EQT6E > > If you have any adjustment screws they may help with the performance. In > the case of a single screw it is the minimum butterfly position primarily > used for ensuring that a bare minimum of air makes it into the engine > during starting. Once the engine starts, the governor and throttle will > counter act on one another to adjust the butterfly to maintain air and fuel > mix and subsequently engine speed. Depending on the engine and carb this > screw may continue to control the minimum idle speed. This single screw > also ensures that the butterfly doesn't get jammed shut. > > If you have more than 1 screw it is most likely that you have a total of > 3. 1 is off by itself and acts as the minimum butterfly position as > described above. The other 2 will be found together and act as the min > throttle fuel adjust and the max throttle fuel adjust. Min throttle is > always flowing fuel so it will affect the idle speed and the max throttle > fuel mix. Every time you touch the min throttle fuel screw you will > probably have to revisit the idle speed screw and the max throttle screw. > > Before I begin making adjustments, I like to document where I am when I > start. I slowly count the turns clockwise on all screws until they lightly > stop. I write the three numbers down as reference settings. Then I reset > all 3 screws to their as found position. If you have absolutely no good > idea where the screws should be then start each of them one turn open > (counterclockwise) from full shut (clockwise). Most of these engines > require a choke when cold and a full throttle for starting. This primes > the engine and ensures that the fuel lines, fuel bowl, and carb are full of > fuel. The choke ensures a rich A/F mix for cold starting. If a priming > bulb exists then pumping the bulb until it is full of fuel for a few pumps > primes the engine as well. When pulling the cord, after the first sputter > you can take the choke to half (if it has one) or off if it doesn't. Keep > full throttle and retry the pull start. If it won't start then verify > spark. Since full throttle is being applied, tweaking open the max fuel > screw a 1/4 turn at a time will admit more fuel. If it still doesn't start > then it suggests a clog in the high throttle fuel path. > > Once it starts, run it at full/elevated throttle for a few minutes to warm > up the engine. You know it is warm when you can take the choke all the way > off and the engine surges up instead of dogging down. This does assume > that the fueling is already close. If it is way off then an unchoked > operation may not yet be possible. Now you can start the real fuel > adjustments. Release the throttle and see if it stays running. If it > starts to die then goose the throttle enough to keep it running. If it is > slow to respond then open the min fuel screw slightly until the response is > no longer sluggish. Once the response is no longer sluggish you can tweak > the minimum idle screw such that it just barely keeps the engine going > smooth and even. Goose the engine again to ensure no sluggishness. If > needed repeat. At this point definitely make sure that the choke is off. > > Once the minimum throttle fuel and idle speed screws are adjusted then you > can move on to the max throttle fuel screw. Attempt to slowly raise > throttle until full (WOT). If the engine dogs down along the way then it > may be getting too much fuel. Tweak closed on the max throttle fuel screw > and see if it improves. If it doesn't dog down and you can get to full > throttle then hold it there and attempt to tweak the max fuel screw open. > The RPM should climb. Continue until the point where it begins to die and > then turn back closed until max RPM. > > Recheck all settings by releasing the throttle and letting it idle, make > sure that it doesn't die. Then goose it a few times to make sure that it > is not sluggish. Then full throttle to make sure that it doesn't dog down. > > This works for all types of small engine equipment. The only thing tricky > about marine engines is that these settings need to be finalized in the > water with a load. If any of the adjustments don't work then look at that > part of the carb for clogs of debris or varnish. Lots of carbs have Welsh > plugs with ports, orifices and screens hidden behind. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > On Fri, Dec 20, 2019, 3:23 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > No fuel filter. I found some discussions on boards ( > https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-df-2-5-wont-keep-running.455819/) > about issues and some have added a fuel filter to the fuel line. One guy > cleaned the carburetor 6 times before he finally got it to work right. > Others agreed that the tiny fuel jets in this system are prone to partial > plugging with debris and it is very challenging to clean it out. I will > probably remove the carburetor (since I know how to do it now) again and > use more carb cleaner and more pressurized air to try to get at those tiny > passageways for fuel. Fishing line was suggested so I will try that. I was > not very vigorous in my first attempt. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 11:06 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Simple stuff first. My generator ran then shut down a minute later. Even > though the fuel filter “looked” OK. Replaced it and spark plug and > vrooomm…110 to spare. > > *David F. Risch* > *(401) 419-4650* > > *From:* CnC-List < cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> *On Behalf Of *David > Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, December 20, 2019 10:43 AM > *To:* CnC discussion list CnC < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* David Knecht < davidakne...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up... > > I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. > I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or > running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several > YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty > straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked > really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and > replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I > disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller > there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to > finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing to > get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to start > every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than before > disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far as I can > tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find a YouTube > for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident when the water > pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same since, so I suspect > that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that would affect > starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth further > disassembly? Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <image001.png> > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard > questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the > problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. > > The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to > the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was > the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It > seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the > engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the > bits of water flying about it was not so discernable. > > The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the > lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and > out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the > reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of > the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. > Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into > the water were escaping unmuffled. > > These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly > apparent once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these > little marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine > while running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things > I should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes > are correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck > with a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to > spend on “funner” things. > Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… > > *David F. Risch* > *(401) 419-4650* > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
