Thanks Josh, I printed your email and might tackle a few small engines I have at home. The tools recommended are cheap, so I ordered those.
Thanks, Chuck, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md > On December 20, 2019 at 9:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Often times the fuel filter is in the connection to the tank or actually > attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. They make acetylene > torch tip cleaners that are micro fine round files. They work very well for > cleaning the jets. As you use the files, you can feel a dramatic difference > between the gunk/varnish and the bronze/brass metal of the fuel jets. > > Torch tip Cleaner > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014D1M62G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C-x.DbQNPP74P > > Carburetor Adjustment Tool, 9 Piece Carb Adjusting Turn-Up Screwdriver > Tool Kit > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N363CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bby.Db47EQT6E > > If you have any adjustment screws they may help with the performance. In > the case of a single screw it is the minimum butterfly position primarily > used for ensuring that a bare minimum of air makes it into the engine during > starting. Once the engine starts, the governor and throttle will counter act > on one another to adjust the butterfly to maintain air and fuel mix and > subsequently engine speed. Depending on the engine and carb this screw may > continue to control the minimum idle speed. This single screw also ensures > that the butterfly doesn't get jammed shut. > > If you have more than 1 screw it is most likely that you have a total of > 3. 1 is off by itself and acts as the minimum butterfly position as > described above. The other 2 will be found together and act as the min > throttle fuel adjust and the max throttle fuel adjust. Min throttle is > always flowing fuel so it will affect the idle speed and the max throttle > fuel mix. Every time you touch the min throttle fuel screw you will probably > have to revisit the idle speed screw and the max throttle screw. > > Before I begin making adjustments, I like to document where I am when I > start. I slowly count the turns clockwise on all screws until they lightly > stop. I write the three numbers down as reference settings. Then I reset > all 3 screws to their as found position. If you have absolutely no good idea > where the screws should be then start each of them one turn open > (counterclockwise) from full shut (clockwise). Most of these engines require > a choke when cold and a full throttle for starting. This primes the engine > and ensures that the fuel lines, fuel bowl, and carb are full of fuel. The > choke ensures a rich A/F mix for cold starting. If a priming bulb exists > then pumping the bulb until it is full of fuel for a few pumps primes the > engine as well. When pulling the cord, after the first sputter you can take > the choke to half (if it has one) or off if it doesn't. Keep full throttle > and retry the pull start. If it won't start then verify spark. Since full > throttle is being applied, tweaking open the max fuel screw a 1/4 turn at a > time will admit more fuel. If it still doesn't start then it suggests a clog > in the high throttle fuel path. > > Once it starts, run it at full/elevated throttle for a few minutes to > warm up the engine. You know it is warm when you can take the choke all the > way off and the engine surges up instead of dogging down. This does assume > that the fueling is already close. If it is way off then an unchoked > operation may not yet be possible. Now you can start the real fuel > adjustments. Release the throttle and see if it stays running. If it starts > to die then goose the throttle enough to keep it running. If it is slow to > respond then open the min fuel screw slightly until the response is no longer > sluggish. Once the response is no longer sluggish you can tweak the minimum > idle screw such that it just barely keeps the engine going smooth and even. > Goose the engine again to ensure no sluggishness. If needed repeat. At this > point definitely make sure that the choke is off. > > Once the minimum throttle fuel and idle speed screws are adjusted then > you can move on to the max throttle fuel screw. Attempt to slowly raise > throttle until full (WOT). If the engine dogs down along the way then it may > be getting too much fuel. Tweak closed on the max throttle fuel screw and > see if it improves. If it doesn't dog down and you can get to full throttle > then hold it there and attempt to tweak the max fuel screw open. The RPM > should climb. Continue until the point where it begins to die and then turn > back closed until max RPM. > > Recheck all settings by releasing the throttle and letting it idle, make > sure that it doesn't die. Then goose it a few times to make sure that it is > not sluggish. Then full throttle to make sure that it doesn't dog down. > > This works for all types of small engine equipment. The only thing > tricky about marine engines is that these settings need to be finalized in > the water with a load. If any of the adjustments don't work then look at > that part of the carb for clogs of debris or varnish. Lots of carbs have > Welsh plugs with ports, orifices and screens hidden behind. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > On Fri, Dec 20, 2019, 3:23 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > [email protected] mailto:[email protected] > wrote: > > > > No fuel filter. I found some discussions on boards ( > https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-df-2-5-wont-keep-running.455819/) > about issues and some have added a fuel filter to the fuel line. One guy > cleaned the carburetor 6 times before he finally got it to work right. > Others agreed that the tiny fuel jets in this system are prone to partial > plugging with debris and it is very challenging to clean it out. I will > probably remove the carburetor (since I know how to do it now) again and use > more carb cleaner and more pressurized air to try to get at those tiny > passageways for fuel. Fishing line was suggested so I will try that. I was > not very vigorous in my first attempt. Dave > > > > S/V Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > > > > > > > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 11:06 AM, David Risch via > > CnC-List < [email protected] mailto:[email protected] > wrote: > > > > > > Simple stuff first. My generator ran then shut down a minute > > > later. Even though the fuel filter “looked” OK. Replaced it and spark > > > plug and vrooomm…110 to spare. > > > > > > David F. Risch > > > (401) 419-4650 > > > > > > From: CnC-List < [email protected] > > > mailto:[email protected] > On Behalf Of David Knecht via > > > CnC-List > > > Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 10:43 AM > > > To: CnC discussion list CnC < [email protected] > > > mailto:[email protected] > > > > Cc: David Knecht < [email protected] > > > mailto:[email protected] > > > > Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up... > > > > > > I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 > > > this month. I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not > > > starting or running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found > > > several YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty > > > straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked > > > really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner > > > and replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I > > > disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller > > > there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to > > > finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing > > > to get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to > > > start every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than > > > before disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far > > > as I can tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find > > > a YouTube for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident > > > when the water pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same > > > since, so I suspect that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that > > > would affect starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth > > > further disassembly? Thanks- Dave > > > > > > S/V Aries > > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > > New London, CT > > > > > > <image001.png> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, > > > David Risch via CnC-List < [email protected] > > > mailto:[email protected] > wrote: > > > > > > > > A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some > > > > mystery outboard questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. > > > > After solving the problems I thought would share as to what were the > > > > problems and solutions. > > > > > > > > The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, > > > > unobtainium (according to the previous overpaid and underperforming > > > > mechanic) needle valve. It was the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It > > > > seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious > > > > to me when the engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When > > > > underway with all the bits of water flying about it was not so > > > > discernable. > > > > > > > > The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing > > > > (actually it fell into the lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear > > > > shift leg which protrudes up and out of the lower drive leg. When put > > > > in reverse the leg engages (up) the reverse bracket lock that prevent > > > > the engine from reversing itself out of the water. You should see it > > > > midway up on the front side of the leg. Without the gasket the exhaust > > > > gasses which normally flow down and out into the water were escaping > > > > unmuffled. > > > > > > > > These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes > > > > became quickly apparent once I started pulling things apart and > > > > figuring out how these little marvels actually work. And also > > > > carefully observing the engine while running on land. Lesson learned > > > > that although I can fix most things I should not have be so hesitant > > > > with the outboards. And I know my fixes are correct and I will not be > > > > cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck with a > > > > still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to spend > > > > on “funner” things. > > > > Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… > > > > > > > > David F. Risch > > > > (401) 419-4650 > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your > > > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want > > > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your > > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want > > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. > > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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