I was at the boat yesterday and tried to take the heat exchanger off the engine
(Universal M4-30) so I could refurbish the seals and make sure it is clean
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). One bolt came off easily
but the one on the starboard side is a challenge. I cannot
I would NOT try to use an open end wrench of any kind to loosen a bolt that is
really stuck. There is too high a probability that you will just round off the
head and make your task even more difficult. Use some kind of closed wrench,
either the box end of a combination wrench, or a socket,
David,
Not sure if they will do the job for you but I find the GearWrench 85035 35
piece MicroDriver Set very useful when working on boats.
I also find the GearWrench ratcheting wrenches useful. They ratchet with
as little as 5 degrees swing. Very nice when working in tight spaces.
Dennis C.
I find these to be useful when I can't get a socket in a tight space.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Reversible-Ratchet-Wrench-Set-5-Piece-HRRW5PCSAE/202934583
On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 8:43 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
David,
Not sure if they will do the job for
Up until this past summer, I was always in a slip a half mile up a
river. I've always used Micron Extra, and even though I am now moored in
salt water, I still seem to be getting equally good results. Because of
the price differential, I did try the Petit (Ultima SR-40) equivalent,
and after
The usual formula I have heard of is 50:50 acetone and ATF. I have no idea
how the power steering fluid compares to ATF, however...so I can't make any
calls that way.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 9 March 2015 at 09:20, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Hi David,
If it hasn't been mentioned for max torque with less chance of stripping
make sure you go with a 12 point closed wrench instead of 6. Ratcheting
closed wrenches are a pleasure to work with but for high torque the ratchet
can possibly get damaged.. I'd go with a plain ol' forged one
I will be driving through Bangor later this month and wish to pick up some
paint that I cannot source in Canada. Any suggestions of a convenient place to
get this?
Regards
Mike
Persistence
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To change your
Google Hamilton Marine. They are in Portland and a couple other locations Down
East.
Thanks,
Mike Fair
413.587.6535
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 12:49 PM
To: schiller; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
That's right Bill. I tried 66 in brackish water which Interlux explained
would be salty enough. It worked fine during the first season but during
the first haul out it peeled off in sheets. Fortunately the yard that put
it on was a certified retailer so the repair/replacement was fully
covered.
Yes, as a matter of fact the Alden wrenches are sized like normal
wrenches. The ones that we made with the grad students were fixed jaw.
The pivoting clamp lower jaw is an improvement to the concept. I don't
have any in my tool box.
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(CC 35, Mark I)
Thanks Mike
I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then on to State
#2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me. Has been a long time since
we skied there. Portland seems a few hours out of our way and we were hoping
to make a quick stop at a store to buy some
Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend some
time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better off with
Micron Extra.
Bill Bina
On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Mike
I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor
I've got a Jabsco 36970, 2.8gpm diaphragm pump for emptying out the shower
sump in the head of our 30-2.Similar to this one:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/jabsco--diaphragm-bilge-pump-4gpm-3-4-port--109951
It hasn't worked since got the boat (gets juice, piston moves up and down,
but no suction.
Kevin,
I had the same problem — had one, never worked quite right, a big deal to
replace.
My cost-saving solution? I made a drain opening so that the shower drains into
the bilge. Cost: $5.00. Time: 10 minutes.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No:
Kevin:
Something like this would work just fineI have something similar for
my shower pump:
http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing--Pumps-Fresh-Water-Pumps/c31_259/p3234/FLOJET-4405-3.3-GPM-QUAD-II-DIAPHRAGM-SERIES-WATER-PUMP/product_info.html
Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On
This is from an almost 10-year old test, but it should be still true:
A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked
at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a
rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the
Jim:
You are correct, thank you. and to David who I hope reads your
correction .it is 50:50 acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid
(ATF) and not Power Steering Fluid (PSF). For the purposes of what we
are talking about using this concoction, a 50:50 of either ATF or PWF
will
If you are up for a detour from Bangor over to the coast, you could go to West
Marine in Southwest Harbor (on Mount Desert Island). Damian Greene CC 34
GHOSTTremont, Mount Desert Island, Maine
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent:
If you are up for a detour from Bangor over to the coast, you could go to West
Marine in Southwest Harbor (on Mount Desert Island). Damian Greene CC 34
GHOSTTremont, Mount Desert Island, Maine
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent:
Bill:
Trust me, Mike sails in salt waternot brackish water. Mike and I
are on moorings in the North West Arm where we have lots of salt water
passing by our hulls and we are close to open ocean.
I have used Micron 66 for 3 seasons now after using Micron CSC for 12
years.the 66 is a
Hi All,
Got a 1979 CC 34 which I'm updating. I have seen other 34's which use a
external
bracket and a turning block positioned behind the primary winch to turn the
sheet.
Mine uses a block clipped to the toerail aft of there and since I'm interested
in flying my
chute while racing this
-list.com
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 14:08:11 -0400
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard
All the answers about freeing stuck bolts got me thinking about a problem I
am having with my 1983 CC 32. I have wheel steering and the rudder is very
tough to turn. Boat has not been in an accident so post is not bent. I
tried slackening off the cables - no result; tried adding a grease
Had the same thing recently with mine, turned out to be the cables had so much
old crud, dried grease and crap on them, they were sticking to the sheaves and
quadrant, as soon as the cables were off, rudder was easily turned by hand.
Try giving it all a good clean and re-oil, no doubt you'll
Saw a link to Edd Schillay's solution to shower pump failure. I could not open
the link. I am on city island, at HYC on a 32 cc. sorry, could not find an
off list address.
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If you just dump it in the bilge.. I'm told that soapy water in the bilge
is a bad idea as it promotes foul smelling bacteria.
As for the pump, I just rebuilt mine (Has the same for fresh water
pressure) instead of replacing. As I found out, it's still a 300-400$
pump for a reason.. Bullet
Usually, if the diaphragm isn't ruptured, the problem is a little bit of
dirt or hair in the intake or outlet valves.
Definitely worth taking it apart for a looksee first.
Ken H.
On 9 March 2015 at 18:03, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
I've got a Jabsco 36970,
Mark,
I run my genoa sheets through the genoa cars and straight to the winch. The
boat came with double blocks near the quarters, but I found them
unnecessary. If you can't get a good lead towards the winch, you may need
the extra turning block. I use a Harken block that is shackled to the toe
My apologies for responding with that big listserv digest train attached!!
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Martin,
If after disconnecting your quadrant and cables, it is still stiff, drop the
rudder and clean both the rudder post and the interior of the rudder tube.
I use a good waterproof grease meant for trailer bearings. My rudder is as
smooth as silk. It makes all the difference, especially
I also use Lubriplate 130AA on Calypso rudder, steering, and MAX prop.
Another area to check is under any load bearing areas at the top of the rudder
shaft. If needed it is possible to run lines under the rudder to hold it in
place while cleaning and lubricating load bearing areas.
Martin
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Like Jake said, I'd disconnect the cable to see if the problem is in the
Steering pedestal.
If it's not, drop the rudder. Once you have the rudder out, you can drill out
the fiberglass post and add zerk fittings for grease. I use a waterproof clear
synthetic grease.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 14:08:11 -0400
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com
To: cnc
I used Lubriplate 130AA. (IIRC) It is the grease that is recommended by
PYI for my MaxProp. I didn't realy want another product floating around so
I grease everything with this stuff. Works fine on the marlon (plastic)
through hulls, the rudder, and the prop.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC
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