Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Fred, I agree.  In fact, I'm more in support of the tablets and other not
"purpose built" solutions.  I'm working daily to fully develop my open
source OpenPlotter running on a rasberry pi.  I've only spent ~$200.

My poorly stated point was that no matter what you are using to aid
navigation, safety is predicated on the seamanship of the operator and
sailing has inherent risk.

Josh

On Feb 28, 2017 10:49 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh — respectfully:
>
> At some point, you have to trust in something.  When offshore, there’s no
> coastal piloting tricks like taking bearings.  If all the electronics die
> and the compass craps out, you’re in trouble.  Having backups to the
> backups in electronics allow you to compare data from different sources
>  and hopefully pick what appears to be the most reliable.  But I still log
> GPS coordinates every hour, when offshore, along with heading and speed;
> then if the electronics go down, you can at least dead-reckon yourself.
> Call it proper seamanship, I suppose.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 28, 2017, at 8:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> But the irony is that you are all swearing off tablets just to turn and
> place your faith in other "purpose built" electronic devices.
>
> Professional made chart plotters are subject to electrical failures,
> software errors, user error (vespes wind), and lack of chart updates.
> Compasses can be affected by geo-magnetic anomalies or nearby ferrous
> metals.  Fundamentally, safe navigation requires proper seamanship
> including a vigilant watch and redundant instruments.  Understanding the
> limitations of both is just as critical and that is where tablets get
> risky.  It IS almost too easy to become enamored by their capabilities and
> then overestimate their reliability.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — respectfully:

At some point, you have to trust in something.  When offshore, there’s no 
coastal piloting tricks like taking bearings.  If all the electronics die and 
the compass craps out, you’re in trouble.  Having backups to the backups in 
electronics allow you to compare data from different sources  and hopefully 
pick what appears to be the most reliable.  But I still log GPS coordinates 
every hour, when offshore, along with heading and speed; then if the 
electronics go down, you can at least dead-reckon yourself.  Call it proper 
seamanship, I suppose.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 28, 2017, at 8:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> But the irony is that you are all swearing off tablets just to turn and place 
> your faith in other "purpose built" electronic devices.
> 
> Professional made chart plotters are subject to electrical failures, software 
> errors, user error (vespes wind), and lack of chart updates.  Compasses can 
> be affected by geo-magnetic anomalies or nearby ferrous metals.  
> Fundamentally, safe navigation requires proper seamanship including a 
> vigilant watch and redundant instruments.  Understanding the limitations of 
> both is just as critical and that is where tablets get risky.  It IS almost 
> too easy to become enamored by their capabilities and then overestimate their 
> reliability.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

But the irony is that you are all swearing off tablets just to turn and
place your faith in other "purpose built" electronic devices.

Professional made chart plotters are subject to electrical failures,
software errors, user error (vespes wind), and lack of chart updates.
Compasses can be affected by geo-magnetic anomalies or nearby ferrous
metals.  Fundamentally, safe navigation requires proper seamanship
including a vigilant watch and redundant instruments.  Understanding the
limitations of both is just as critical and that is where tablets get
risky.  It IS almost too easy to become enamored by their capabilities and
then overestimate their reliability.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 28, 2017 10:48 AM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used Nobeltec TZ on my iPad Mini (along with a Bad Elf BluetoothGPS
> receiver) for the Annapolis to Bermuda Race a few years back; it was nice
> for its portability.  But even with the Mini in a splash-proof Lifeproof
> case, I wouldn’t want to rely on it as the primary source for navigation.
> Stuff happens; batteries get low at the wrong time, things get dropped
> overboard or stepped on, and so on.  Having a dedicated, purpose-built
> device connected to the boat and its batteries still seems to me like the
> best option.  Having backups to that is also a good idea, one that the iPad
> fills well.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 28, 2017, at 7:48 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> “
> They may be nice for backup” +1 on that.
>
> As Bill says, plenty of people swear by them, but I am afraid that there
> is a lot of tablet (Apple) bigotry in that (I hope I am not starting a
> Holly War here). Even the cost argument is not really true. A basic GPSMAP
> 76 (one can have it for about $150) is  probably better.
>
> But it all depends what you use it for and what you need it for. On an
> easy Sunday cruise it would probably work fine (and you would have plenty
> of interesting information available).
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I've done both sickens and epiphanies on two different boats.  Other than the 
time between coats, I dont see the the benefit to sickens.  It seemed softer 
and less deep a finish than the varnish.  As far as upkeep, a couple of coats a 
year on either product seems a wash.  I'd  go with the varnish myself.  
Although,  I didn't do this on the new handrails on my last boat,  I think I 
might coat new wood with epoxy first then 7 or 8 coats of epiphanies.  I did 
that on the new hatch boards of my last boat and was pleasantly surprised with 
the results!  I made them out of some marine plywood I had left over from a 
project on a previous boat and I got a lot of compliments on those hatch 
boards!   Lol
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/28/17  2:53 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: RANDY  Subject: 
Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation? 
Listers-
Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.  
Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.  I'm 
looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
Cheers,Randy___

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Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I like Cetol, but I don't use it on my exterior teak. I'm a Semco believer. 
When I got Pegathy the exterior varnish was useless. Had to be stripped off. It 
was a Royal Paine Diaz, as Click and Clack would say. I put on two coats of 
Semco Honeytone. Had to put on a third later that year. Next year, two coats as 
well. Since then one coat a year. The teak looks great and feels like wood. 
Never have to sand or strip. If the rain has washed it off, I just put on one 
coat each spring. Application (with a foam brush ever-so-lightly dipped in the 
juice) is as easy as can be. It's very thin and flows on easily, and seals (and 
fills to some extent) the teak. Wouldn't go back to varnish unless someone put 
a gun to my head.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Re: Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred - I should have added that I have the both a vYacht wifi and an 
actisense USB gateway.  Got it all working while on the hard last fall, 
anxiously awaiting April 10 launch to try it in practice.   Wind sensor May not 
happen this season unfortunately. 

I take it that given the choice, ultrasonic is the way to go vs the traditional 
paddle, vane, etc  are you aware of any inherent disadvantage?

Thx, Dave 

> On Feb 28, 2017, at 9:15 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Hi, Dave!  The ultrasonic weather sensors are pretty nice; but there’s some 
> infrastructure you’re going to need around it.  You already have the 
> SeaTalkNG bus going, with your existing pilot and i70.  You’ll need to 
> integrate the sensor into that; then also have an NMEA2000-to-WiFi gateway 
> added in to the mix to get all your data to the iPad (if you don’t already 
> have one).
> 
> Beyond that, it’s pretty simple…   :^)
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 13, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Dave via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking 
>> for any thoughts from those who've done it. 
>> I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.  Am 
>> leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.   
>> Thoughts/wisdom/guidance? 
>> Thanks!dave.  33-2
> 
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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have been using Cetol for a while, same gallon can for 10 years.
It is basically an oil based teak coloured stain, completely different
from a varnish. It works well on Lake Ontario and when the exuberance
during racing requires a touch up I also like the ease of maintenance.


What is the new equivalent to the old just oil Cetol?


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1





From: Fred Hazzard  
 
I like how easy  Cetol is to repair dings and scratches. A light feathering 
sand and apply another coat. 
 
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
Portland, Or 
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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I like how easy  Cetol is to repair dings and scratches. A light feathering
sand and apply another coat.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

On Feb 28, 2017 1:12 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I've been using Sikkens Cetol for years.  5 coats Cetol then 3 coats
clear.  Maintenance coat of clear every 6 months.  Seems to hold up well in
the Gulf Coast sun and heat.

BTW, don't use Cetol light.  Tried that once.  Not pleased.

However, I hear good things about Awlwood.  If I have to strip the wood and
re-apply, I might switch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.
> Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.
> I'm looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Randy,

I’ll throw in with Awlwood MA. It’s a bit dear price-wise but I’ve found that 
it floats out well and that fewer coats are needed to achieve the same depth of 
gloss that regular varnish requires, ergo less work.

Keep in mind that it is a two-oars (first coat of Primer Clear then over-coated 
with Gloss. You only need the primer for the first coat.

I like it but of course, all my finished woodwork is covered up in my shed 
awaiting installation. Sometime in the distant future…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Feb 28, 2017, at 2:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.  
> Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.  I'm 
> looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've been using Sikkens Cetol for years.  5 coats Cetol then 3 coats
clear.  Maintenance coat of clear every 6 months.  Seems to hold up well in
the Gulf Coast sun and heat.

BTW, don't use Cetol light.  Tried that once.  Not pleased.

However, I hear good things about Awlwood.  If I have to strip the wood and
re-apply, I might switch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.
> Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.
> I'm looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone. The initial epoxy job turned out great. I ran a heater in the 
head since it was only 50 or so on the boat and it set up fine. Any water 
getting in there will have no more access to the core. I next need to get the 
hole positions set and fill them with epoxy. Butyl tape does seem the best way 
to seal this to the deck too.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 08:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


yes agreed, I can't believe I left that part out!  LOL  thats why it took me so 
much time on the hatches, well that and removing the effing silicone!  I hate 
that stuff!

On 2/28/2017 8:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Joe

I would suggest overdrilling and filling with thickened epoxy and then 
redrilling.  Whatever you use for sealant is not there to protect your deck as 
much as to keep the cabin dry.  The epoxy is to protect the core.

My $0.02

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 5:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


I would suggest butyl and thru-bolting

On 2/27/2017 4:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
may I suggest butyl tape and mounting screws?

Marek

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 14:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

Questions - the new vent does not fit into a deck plate, it is designed to
mount directly to the deck. They suggest using silicone caulk. I already
have 4200, would that work? Also I my experience, something with that much
flat surface against the deck is going to be very well glued on by the
caulk. I doubt it will ever come loose unless I run a blade under it, so do
I need to bother with the mounting screws into the deck?

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina
C 35 MK I



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___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Gary — I’ve tried Sikkens in the past, and was less than happy with the 
results.  Last winter, I decided to try Awlwood on my handrails and Dorade 
boxes, and was very pleased with the results.  I hope to do my toerail this 
spring.  It looks like this product is going to hold up well, with a minimum of 
maintenance; and it goes on fast (two hours between coats), so you cn get a lot 
done in a day.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 28, 2017, at 1:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.  
> Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.  I'm 
> looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
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Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Listers- 

Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation. 
Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak. I'm 
looking for a clear varnish with UV protection. 

Cheers, 
Randy 
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Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I used Nobeltec TZ on my iPad Mini (along with a Bad Elf BluetoothGPS receiver) 
for the Annapolis to Bermuda Race a few years back; it was nice for its 
portability.  But even with the Mini in a splash-proof Lifeproof case, I 
wouldn’t want to rely on it as the primary source for navigation.  Stuff 
happens; batteries get low at the wrong time, things get dropped overboard or 
stepped on, and so on.  Having a dedicated, purpose-built device connected to 
the boat and its batteries still seems to me like the best option.  Having 
backups to that is also a good idea, one that the iPad fills well.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 28, 2017, at 7:48 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> “ They may be nice for backup” +1 on that.
>  
> As Bill says, plenty of people swear by them, but I am afraid that there is a 
> lot of tablet (Apple) bigotry in that (I hope I am not starting a Holly War 
> here). Even the cost argument is not really true. A basic GPSMAP 76 (one can 
> have it for about $150) is  probably better.
>  
> But it all depends what you use it for and what you need it for. On an easy 
> Sunday cruise it would probably work fine (and you would have plenty of 
> interesting information available).
>  
> Marek

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Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

yes agreed, I can't believe I left that part out!  LOL  thats why it 
took me so much time on the hatches, well that and removing the effing 
silicone!  I hate that stuff!



On 2/28/2017 8:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Joe

I would suggest overdrilling and filling with thickened epoxy and then 
redrilling.  Whatever you use for sealant is not there to protect your 
deck as much as to keep the cabin dry.  The epoxy is to protect the core.


My $0.02

Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, February 27, 2017 5:24 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

I would suggest butyl and thru-bolting

On 2/27/2017 4:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

may I suggest butyl tape and mounting screws?

Marek

*From:*Joe Della Barba via CnC-List

*Sent:*Monday, February 27, 2017 14:54

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Cc:*Joe Della Barba

*Subject:*Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


Questions - the new vent does not fit into a deck plate, it is
designed to
mount directly to the deck. They suggest using silicone caulk. I
already
have 4200, would that work? Also I my experience, something with
that much
flat surface against the deck is going to be very well glued on by the
caulk. I doubt it will ever come loose unless I run a blade under
it, so do
I need to bother with the mounting screws into the deck?

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina
C 35 MK I



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to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Joe

It is a lot of effort but, you'd never have to worry about it leaking 
back into the deck.  Just that fact that it is trough bolted moves the 
path of least resistance below the deck.  I just did this process for 6 
deck hatches!  took me 5 boat weekends! now that I'm done, I'm happy I 
took the time and did it right. I'd hate to think I took a 36 year old 
dry deck and ruined because of careless hardware bedding...


Also, don't for get to countersink the holes, even if you do just 
screwing it to the deck.


Danny


On 2/27/2017 5:16 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


That could work.

It sure would be easier to get it back off if I ever have to.

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina

C 35 mk i

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, February 27, 2017 4:24 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

I would suggest butyl and thru-bolting

On 2/27/2017 4:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

may I suggest butyl tape and mounting screws?

Marek

*From:*Joe Della Barba via CnC-List

*Sent:*Monday, February 27, 2017 14:54

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Cc:*Joe Della Barba

*Subject:*Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


Questions - the new vent does not fit into a deck plate, it is
designed to
mount directly to the deck. They suggest using silicone caulk. I
already
have 4200, would that work? Also I my experience, something with
that much
flat surface against the deck is going to be very well glued on by the
caulk. I doubt it will ever come loose unless I run a blade under
it, so do
I need to bother with the mounting screws into the deck?

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina
C 35 MK I



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

“
They may be nice for backup” +1 on that.

As Bill says, plenty of people swear by them, but I am afraid that there is a 
lot of tablet (Apple) bigotry in that (I hope I am not starting a Holly War 
here). Even the cost argument is not really true. A basic GPSMAP 76 (one can 
have it for about $150) is  probably better.

But it all depends what you use it for and what you need it for. On an easy 
Sunday cruise it would probably work fine (and you would have plenty of 
interesting information available).

Marek

From: BillBinaList via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 06:07
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList
Subject: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

They may be nice for backup, but they really are not nearly as reliable as a 
well designed dedicated marine plotter, compass and AIS. Wifi wouldn't matter 
to a compass app, or a charting app, but I'm thinking the fool was relying on a 
land based AIS app to spot ships. I've heard people in forums recommend using 
one of these apps, but they have no idea that it is not nearly the same thing 
as directly received AIS information. The land based apps tend to have delayed 
information, or intermittent information, as well as often not reporting all 
ships in the area. Wrong or incomplete information is not necessarily better 
than no information. It may lead you directly into trouble.

https://www.cnet.com/news/boat-captain-uses-ipad-as-compass-crashes-uk/#ftag=CAD590a51e

Bill Bina
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Re: Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Dave!  The ultrasonic weather sensors are pretty nice; but there’s some 
infrastructure you’re going to need around it.  You already have the SeaTalkNG 
bus going, with your existing pilot and i70.  You’ll need to integrate the 
sensor into that; then also have an NMEA2000-to-WiFi gateway added in to the 
mix to get all your data to the iPad (if you don’t already have one).

Beyond that, it’s pretty simple…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking 
> for any thoughts from those who've done it. 
> I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.  Am 
> leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.   
> Thoughts/wisdom/guidance? 
> Thanks!dave.  33-2

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Stus-List Tablets for navigation

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

They may be nice for backup, but they really are not nearly as reliable 
as a well designed dedicated marine plotter, compass and AIS. Wifi 
wouldn't matter to a compass app, or a charting app, but I'm thinking 
the fool was relying on a land based AIS app to spot ships. I've heard 
people in forums recommend using one of these apps, but they have no 
idea that it is not nearly the same thing as directly received AIS 
information. The land based apps tend to have delayed information, or 
intermittent information, as well as often not reporting all ships in 
the area. Wrong or incomplete information is not necessarily better than 
no information. It may lead you directly into trouble.


https://www.cnet.com/news/boat-captain-uses-ipad-as-compass-crashes-uk/#ftag=CAD590a51e

Bill Bina
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