Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Wasn't there a booklet that came with it?  Gave the deformation vs. actual 
tension for a given size wire.If you don't have it, there may be one 
online.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Jim via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: j...@mymts.net
 Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 9:19 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32
   
I have a 1971 C 35 mk1 with an old style rig tension gauge (see pics as 
follow   
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1SaAnyone have 
instructions on how to use this old style gauge?
It has a scale reading from 1 to about 3. 

Cheers, James


From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: firewa...@reinardy.us
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 12:29:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32

All, I can share my recent experience on this.  I had Loos gauges for my old 
Catalina with stranded rigging and came to like having that piece of mind.  
When I bought my C with rod, I had trouble with the cost of the RT-10 and did 
not buy one for several years.
I put out an inquiry several weeks ago and Harry Hallgring from the list was 
kind enough to ship me his gauge to try.   It turned out that in previous years 
I was nowhere near tight enough doing it by feel, the gauge gave me the 
confidence to tighten them down properly.  I can confirm that it has made a 
substantial difference in how the boat sails and eliminated some issues we had 
with differences between tacks.
I was also surprised at how quickly the tension changes with rod as Rob points 
out below.  Once you get to a certain tension, the gauge moves rapidly with 
only a little movement of the turnbuckle.
Long story short, I am now sold on the value of the RT-10, though it still 
seems like a lot to pay.  I started looking for a used one, but came across new 
ones at the Binnacle's US site 
(http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9150) for $426, no tax and 
free shipping.  That seemed too good to pass up and I was not sure how long it 
would last, so I am now the owner of an RT-10.
Jim Reinardy 
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI 


 Original Message 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32
 From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: Wed, June 14, 2017 7:55 am
 To: "C Stus List" 
 Cc: Dave S 
 
Thanks.  I lack both experience and empirical data, (no gauge) so your input 
really helps.  I suspect that I simply did not set it up correctly 
initially.  Last week's sail was in 14-16kts, gusts to 19, rare-ish here, a 
fair bit of "bash and crash" and first time this season, so any microbends 
certainly got unbent, and the unseated was seated.
Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: robert 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2017 09:55:31 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32
Dave:

I can't add much to what Josh has stated.  Each Spring, the mast is stepped, I 
set the rig tensioned the same as every year.even if my boat sits at the 
dock, the shroud tension will ease a bit...maybe as much as 100 lbs. or 5% to 
7% of the initial tension.  

One half turn on my turnbuckle is not a lot of 'actual distance' gained or 
losed.as Josh says "a micro bend". however, if I leave the gauge on the 
shroud when the turnbuckle is tightened or loosened, it will move the gauge 
accordingly.

Without the Loos RT 10, I am merely guessing the rig tension..under 
tensioning is obvious when you take the boat out under sail.over tensioning 
is not as easy to detect. 

I come from a racing background where rig tension is paramount.we were 
constantly adjusting it to suit the conditions on race day..sometimes up 
and down between races on the same day   While I don't race AZURA, old habits 
like rig tensioning has remained with me.  

Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-13 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

"How do I gauge?" - this is the argument for paying $500 for the Loos Tension 
gauge, otherwise you are just guessing.
I believe there are micro bends, stretches, seating, and flexing throughout the 
system which allow the rig to loosen up.  With such low stretch rod rigging 
only a fraction of an inch can be the difference between hundreds of pounds of 
tension and zero pounds.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD



On Jun 13, 2017 12:40 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:

Timely...  I set up my rigging per the instructions in the owners manual 
immediately after launch, and Windstar sat for a few weeks other than a couple 
of very gentle sails.  Finally got to give her a righteous thrashing last 
weekend and I returned with slack upper shrouds - a bit alarming.  Lowers and 
mids not obviously changed, mast step not collapsing, chainplates not failing.I 
suspect I had not 

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Greg, I cannot speak to the structural analysis involved but I would not be at 
all comfortable leaving that space unfilled.  Not sure the small benefit of 
departing from the designer's intent is worth the risk...  just an opinion. 
And the heat thing is minimized by mixing smaller batches - less concentration, 
more surface area.

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:07 AM, Greg Sutherland  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey Russ,
> 
> The sika has amazing freeze thaw properties and the reason I began looking 
> outside of the standard epoxies or resins was due to my general lack of 
> knowledge and also a bit concerned with the depth of material needed, and the 
> heat generated while kicking off and curing. I was surprised when Dave went 
> in that direction because I was under the impression the boat would catch 
> fire or in the very least the end result would be brittle. After reading his 
> process last night I think his success was using less catalyst but it's all 
> foreign to me so I have no clue. (Awesome job btw)
> After a bit of thought, would it really matter if I left that area open and 
> not fill the entire cavity? If I have a substantial compression post that is 
> held fast around the forward keel bolt to keep it in position, couldn't it be 
> open like the bilge on the other side? As long as the top of the area is 
> secured and glassed back into the structure around the keelbolts with the 
> steel plates I think it should be fine. I also contemplated drilling limber 
> holes from that cavity into the bilge so that if and when water gets in, it 
> would also drain out. 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2017, at 9:36 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Hi Greg, 
>> 
>> If you want to spend extra... we used Pilgrim Magmaflow epoxy grout under 
>> the frame of the turbogenerater. Excellent flow characteristics if there is 
>> an awkward cavity to reach. It might be better than traditional grouts 
>> during freeze cycles if there is water present.
>> 
>> A little over done for the job perhaps but you will smile.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> At 04:38 AM 28/06/2017, you wrote:
>>> Content-Language: en-CA
>>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>>  
>>> boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458EF9750B90832967E2CBFB1DD0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"
>>> 
>>> I'm loving your input gentleman,
>>> 
>>> I agree completely. I come from a construction background so plan on using 
>>> a cement type of mortar used for anchoring large industrial equipment. Once 
>>> fully cured it has a load rating of 8100 lbs/sq in, doesn't shrink and is 
>>> unaffected by water. I was certain the loads wouldn't exceed that but 
>>> wanted to make sure.  My plan going forward once excavated was to pour 4-5 
>>> " of the mortar to level up the base and then fabricate a steel post with a 
>>> bottom and top plate with a hole for the forward keel bolt to hold 
>>> everything in place and then glass in the top. I was tempted to just fill 
>>> the entire cavity with the mortar and move on but thought the compression 
>>> post was a better plan.until I read what your father said. Maybe 
>>> he's right, top it up and call it a day. 
>>> 
>>> The mortar I plan to use is called Sikagrout 212 but states that after 6" 
>>> of depth you need an aggregate filler. Maybe something with less weight 
>>> could be used to retain strength in the grout and filling the cavity would 
>>> definitely be the way to go. 
>>> Thought?
>>> 
>>> Greg
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did mine I briefly went down 
 the calculation rabbit hole, looking at the properties of materials etc 
 and I realized there was no way for me to calculate the hypothetical 
 combined load of keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's worth of 
 bashing a rock at 4kts.   My brain elected to look at the original 
 construction and make it stronger (compression posts, epoxy, carbon 
 fibre) and move on to other projects.   I used glass and carbon fibre 
 (recommended by the local composites purveyor) instead of AL as others 
 have done, but,  same idea.   My dad (builder of many boats- now in NS) 
 suggested concrete as fill and he was probably right.  
 
 Dave
 
 
 
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: "Russ & Melody" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: 
 Bcc: 
 Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads
 
 Hi Dave, 
 
 Watch those units. 
 4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of this world for a 33 foot 
 boat. 
 When I did the mast loading while designing the rig of my old 60' cruiser 
 it was 100,000 lbs and he's telling you it's twice that??
 
 I would go with Joe's 

Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chris,I just went through this with my B system this season.  I can give you an idea of what helped me.Do you have access to the conductors on the wire going up the mast?  If so, you can test the following:Red and Black conductors should read 12v with the wire connected into the rest of the system and the bus powered.  The B wind transducer has built in NMEA 2000 terminator, so if the Garmin is similar you can measure the connectivity of the network wiring.  The blue and white wires should show 60 ohms with the mast wiring isolated, and 120 ohms with both backbone terminators visible.  All conductors should show a very high resistance relative to the bare conductor.  If all that checks out, I would begin to suspect the transducer itself.In my case as I reported earlier in this forum, the transducer brought my whole network down.  I proved that it was the issue the hard way, by pulling my wife up the mast to retrieve it, then installing it at the masthead of a friends boat with a similar system.  (The B system uses a proprietary connector for the masthead transducer, so it is hard to test any other way).  The transducer killed his network too, so I was quite confident about where the issue was.  B gave me a heavily discounted price on a new one since it was out of warranty but inside 5 years old.  I put that in last week and all is good now.Jim Reinardy C 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI 


 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem
From: Chris Hickey via CnC-List 
Date: Wed, June 28, 2017 7:15 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hickey 

I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS 10 wind sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the end of last season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I found that the wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. The other components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. The mast cable attached to the network with a field installable connector and I've rechecked those connections and they look good. I've also tried a different tee connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no luck.Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the root of the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm guessing the possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast cable and wind sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to any tips or suggestions you might have!Thanks,ChrisSV Seeker - C 30Holyrood, NL ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Double check the installation instructions closely and follow each step when it 
comes to setting up the control panel.  When I set it up, wind was not showing 
as well but everything else was, so I re climbed the mast several times double 
checking every connection and found you just had to specify for it to show in 
the panel.   

I’ll glance at the control panel later and send you a picture of the location 
to set it in the panel.   It slightly confusing and I think something they are 
aware of because there was special note in the instructions to connect the wind 
sensor in a different method than the other sensors.

Donald



> On Jun 28, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Chris Hickey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS 10 wind 
> sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the end of last 
> season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I found that the 
> wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. The other 
> components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. The mast cable 
> attached to the network with a field installable connector and I've rechecked 
> those connections and they look good. I've also tried a different tee 
> connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no luck.
> 
> Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the root of 
> the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm guessing the 
> possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast cable and wind 
> sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to any tips or 
> suggestions you might have!
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris
> SV Seeker - C 30
> Holyrood, NL
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem

[Chris Hickey via CnC-List]

I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS 10 wind
sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the end of
last season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I found
that the wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. The
other components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. The
mast cable attached to the network with a field installable connector and
I've rechecked those connections and they look good. I've also tried a
different tee connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no
luck.

Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the root of
the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm guessing the
possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast cable and wind
sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to any tips or
suggestions you might have!

Thanks,
Chris
SV Seeker - C 30
Holyrood, NL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Greg Sutherland via CnC-List]

Hey Russ,

The sika has amazing freeze thaw properties and the reason I began looking 
outside of the standard epoxies or resins was due to my general lack of 
knowledge and also a bit concerned with the depth of material needed, and the 
heat generated while kicking off and curing. I was surprised when Dave went in 
that direction because I was under the impression the boat would catch fire or 
in the very least the end result would be brittle. After reading his process 
last night I think his success was using less catalyst but it's all foreign to 
me so I have no clue. (Awesome job btw)
After a bit of thought, would it really matter if I left that area open and not 
fill the entire cavity? If I have a substantial compression post that is held 
fast around the forward keel bolt to keep it in position, couldn't it be open 
like the bilge on the other side? As long as the top of the area is secured and 
glassed back into the structure around the keelbolts with the steel plates I 
think it should be fine. I also contemplated drilling limber holes from that 
cavity into the bilge so that if and when water gets in, it would also drain 
out.

On Jun 28, 2017, at 9:36 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hi Greg,

If you want to spend extra... we used Pilgrim Magmaflow epoxy grout under the 
frame of the turbogenerater. Excellent flow characteristics if there is an 
awkward cavity to reach. It might be better than traditional grouts during 
freeze cycles if there is water present.

A little over done for the job perhaps but you will smile.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:38 AM 28/06/2017, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458EF9750B90832967E2CBFB1DD0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

I'm loving your input gentleman,

I agree completely. I come from a construction background so plan on using a 
cement type of mortar used for anchoring large industrial equipment. Once fully 
cured it has a load rating of 8100 lbs/sq in, doesn't shrink and is unaffected 
by water. I was certain the loads wouldn't exceed that but wanted to make sure. 
 My plan going forward once excavated was to pour 4-5 " of the mortar to level 
up the base and then fabricate a steel post with a bottom and top plate with a 
hole for the forward keel bolt to hold everything in place and then glass in 
the top. I was tempted to just fill the entire cavity with the mortar and move 
on but thought the compression post was a better plan.until I read what 
your father said. Maybe he's right, top it up and call it a day.

The mortar I plan to use is called Sikagrout 212 but states that after 6" of 
depth you need an aggregate filler. Maybe something with less weight could be 
used to retain strength in the grout and filling the cavity would definitely be 
the way to go.
Thought?

Greg


On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did mine I briefly went down the 
calculation rabbit hole, looking at the properties of materials etc and I 
realized there was no way for me to calculate the hypothetical combined load of 
keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's worth of bashing a rock at 4kts.   
My brain elected to look at the original construction and make it stronger 
(compression posts, epoxy, carbon fibre) and move on to other projects.   I 
used glass and carbon fibre (recommended by the local composites purveyor) 
instead of AL as others have done, but,  same idea.   My dad (builder of many 
boats- now in NS) suggested concrete as fill and he was probably right.

Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: "Russ & Melody" >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

Hi Dave,

Watch those units.
4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of this world for a 33 foot boat.
When I did the mast loading while designing the rig of my old 60' cruiser it 
was 100,000 lbs and he's telling you it's twice that??

I would go with Joe's suggestion of 1/2" aluminum plate and move on to other 
projects.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:24 AM 27/06/2017, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458E0206231C27457085F24B1DC0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with Danny from Klacko spars yesterday 
and he's certain that he would have installed my original mast in '87. He 
figures even when falling into a wave with full sails the forces wouldn't 
exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him.
I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on the weekend so I'll definitely 
run it past him - thanks for mentioning that.

I have the 

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Well you need to sleeve the 2 keel bolts for keel maintenance/removal anyway, 
so this requires a post or tube regardless, prior to the pour.
Only other thing I would add (and it's a no-brainer) is to ensure that the 
'floor' (large transverse rib) you cut under the mast step is adequately 
reinforced, both transversely and longitudinally.  the once continuous glass 
spanning the keel stub isn't continuous any  more so you want to 
rebuild/reinforce that.  Again, that's pretty obvious I think.  This is part of 
why I switched to very heavily glass filled epoxy at the top of my keel fill, 
and then built out a tapering cross of biaxial stitch mat and height modulus 
carbon spanning the whole region.  Have flogged the boat hard this spring and 
am looking forward to lifting the sole and inspecting in October.  

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:38 AM, Greg Sutherland  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm loving your input gentleman,
> 
> I agree completely. I come from a construction background so plan on using a 
> cement type of mortar used for anchoring large industrial equipment. Once 
> fully cured it has a load rating of 8100 lbs/sq in, doesn't shrink and is 
> unaffected by water. I was certain the loads wouldn't exceed that but wanted 
> to make sure.  My plan going forward once excavated was to pour 4-5 " of the 
> mortar to level up the base and then fabricate a steel post with a bottom and 
> top plate with a hole for the forward keel bolt to hold everything in place 
> and then glass in the top. I was tempted to just fill the entire cavity with 
> the mortar and move on but thought the compression post was a better 
> plan.until I read what your father said. Maybe he's right, top it up 
> and call it a day. 
> 
> The mortar I plan to use is called Sikagrout 212 but states that after 6" of 
> depth you need an aggregate filler. Maybe something with less weight could be 
> used to retain strength in the grout and filling the cavity would definitely 
> be the way to go. 
> Thought?
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did mine I briefly went down the 
>> calculation rabbit hole, looking at the properties of materials etc and I 
>> realized there was no way for me to calculate the hypothetical combined load 
>> of keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's worth of bashing a rock at 
>> 4kts.   My brain elected to look at the original construction and make it 
>> stronger (compression posts, epoxy, carbon fibre) and move on to other 
>> projects.   I used glass and carbon fibre (recommended by the local 
>> composites purveyor) instead of AL as others have done, but,  same idea.   
>> My dad (builder of many boats- now in NS) suggested concrete as fill and he 
>> was probably right.  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Russ & Melody" 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads
>> 
>> Hi Dave, 
>> 
>> Watch those units. 
>> 4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of this world for a 33 foot 
>> boat. 
>> When I did the mast loading while designing the rig of my old 60' cruiser it 
>> was 100,000 lbs and he's telling you it's twice that??
>> 
>> I would go with Joe's suggestion of 1/2" aluminum plate and move on to other 
>> projects.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> At 08:24 AM 27/06/2017, you wrote:
>>> Content-Language: en-CA
>>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>>  
>>> boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458E0206231C27457085F24B1DC0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with Danny from Klacko spars 
>>> yesterday and he's certain that he would have installed my original mast in 
>>> '87. He figures even when falling into a wave with full sails the forces 
>>> wouldn't exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him. 
>>> I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on the weekend so I'll 
>>> definitely run it past him - thanks for mentioning that. 
>>> 
>>> I have the entire mast step "excavated" to the keel and am starting the 
>>> rebuild. Can't wait for this one to be finished! 
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> Greg
>>> 33 mk2 
>>> Halifax
>>> 
>>> On Jun 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 I used a total of ½†  aluminum on mine when I rebuilt it. It looks 
 about 20 times stronger than the original was too.
  
 Joe
 Coquina
 CC 35 MK I
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Greg,

If you want to spend extra... we used Pilgrim 
Magmaflow epoxy grout under the frame of the 
turbogenerater. Excellent flow characteristics if 
there is an awkward cavity to reach. It might be 
better than traditional grouts during freeze cycles if there is water present.


A little over done for the job perhaps but you will smile.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:38 AM 28/06/2017, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458EF9750B90832967E2CBFB1DD0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

I'm loving your input gentleman,

I agree completely. I come from a construction 
background so plan on using a cement type of 
mortar used for anchoring large industrial 
equipment. Once fully cured it has a load rating 
of 8100 lbs/sq in, doesn't shrink and is 
unaffected by water. I was certain the loads 
wouldn't exceed that but wanted to make 
sure.  My plan going forward once excavated was 
to pour 4-5 " of the mortar to level up the base 
and then fabricate a steel post with a bottom 
and top plate with a hole for the forward keel 
bolt to hold everything in place and then glass 
in the top. I was tempted to just fill the 
entire cavity with the mortar and move on but 
thought the compression post was a better 
plan.until I read what your father said. 
Maybe he's right, top it up and call it a day.


The mortar I plan to use is called Sikagrout 212 
but states that after 6" of depth you need an 
aggregate filler. Maybe something with less 
weight could be used to retain strength in the 
grout and filling the cavity would definitely be the way to go.

Thought?

Greg


On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did 
mine I briefly went down the calculation rabbit 
hole, looking at the properties of materials 
etc and I realized there was no way for me to 
calculate the hypothetical combined load of 
keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's 
worth of bashing a rock at 4kts.   My brain 
elected to look at the original construction 
and make it stronger (compression posts, epoxy, 
carbon fibre) and move on to other 
projects.   I used glass and carbon fibre 
(recommended by the local composites purveyor) 
instead of AL as others have done, but,  same 
idea.   My dad (builder of many boats- now in 
NS) suggested concrete as fill and he was probably right.


Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: "Russ & Melody" <russ...@telus.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

Hi Dave,

Watch those units.
4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of 
this world for a 33 foot boat.
When I did the mast loading while designing the 
rig of my old 60' cruiser it was 100,000 lbs 
and he's telling you it's twice that??


I would go with Joe's suggestion of 1/2" 
aluminum plate and move on to other projects.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:24 AM 27/06/2017, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458E0206231C27457085F24B1DC0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with 
Danny from Klacko spars yesterday and he's 
certain that he would have installed my 
original mast in '87. He figures even when 
falling into a wave with full sails the forces 
wouldn't exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him.
I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on 
the weekend so I'll definitely run it past him - thanks for mentioning that.


I have the entire mast step "excavated" to the 
keel and am starting the rebuild. Can't wait for this one to be finished!


Thanks!
Greg
33 mk2
Halifax

On Jun 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I used a total of ½â€   aluminum on mine 
when I rebuilt it. It lookks about 20 times stronger than the original was too.


Joe
Coquina
CC 35 MK I

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___

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of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box on 1986 C 33 mk2

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Brett,
Forgive me if I am being too basic in my explanation, but I don't know your 
prior level of expertise.  First, there are three parts of the stuffing box.  
See the picture here:  Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly.
  
|  
|   |  
Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly
 00PB75 Buck Algonquin Packing Boxes - Complete on sale now. Huge savings on 
Buck Algonquin hardware.  |  |

  |

 

 Note the smaller, thinner nut.  This is a lock nut.  If you haven't backed 
that off, the larger part, that looks kind of like a nut (though is deeper) 
won't move.  This sounds like your problem.  I had a '77 C 27 MKIII not far 
from you, and given that you are in fresh water, I would doubt the nuts would 
be corroded.  So once you try that, the it is a question of whether you need 
new packing or not.  If you can tighten it down and stop the leaking, you don't 
need to replace the packing (at least for now).
Now to the speed of the drips.  You absolutely do NOT (and I will stress again 
NOT) want to tighten it down so that it stops leaking completely.  As another 
poster noted, you need drips of water coming through the packing when the 
engine is running to lubricate the shaft and keep it from getting so hot that 
you score it.  So, you want to tighten it enough that it doesn't drip when your 
sitting in the water with the engine off, but dripping once every 15 - 30 
seconds or so when the engine is running and in gear.

As for the packing material, West Marine and other chandleries sell packing 
with PTFE (teflon), and some include a green kind of slimy "goo", or green 
packing material that supposedly you can use to have a dripless packing.  While 
I like the basic material due to its increased lubrication factor (thus 
hopefully not heating up the shaft), I did not (and would not) rely upon that.  
Thus I would still keep it leaking a bit under way.  As to the size of the 
packing, I simply don't remember.  You can crawl down and measure the 
difference between the prop shaft and the outer nut, and start with a packing 
material that is 50 - 75% of the difference as a starting point, with the idea 
of returning the unopened material.  

When putting in the material, I heard a good hint.  Wrap the packing 3 times 
around the shaft and use a razor blade to cut through the wraps.  You're 
looking to create 3 rings that fit the shaft.  You then put them into the 
stuffing box with the rings offset.  If you can't get all 3 in, that's OK.
As for getting the old packing material out, I'f found the combination of an 
dental pick and a large fishhook partially straightened out to be very helpful.
Though, if you are in the water, you may just end up putting one new ring of 
material in the stuffing box and waiting until its out of the water to dig the 
rest out.
Hoping this is helpful, 

Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Brett Robertson via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brett Robertson 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 10:23 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box on 1986 C 33 mk2
   
Hello and thanks for taking the time to read and respond.  I’m a new owner of a 
1986 C 33 mk2.  My stuffing box is leaking/dripping.  I’d say a drip every 3 
seconds.  I’m going to try and see if I can tighten it, but I briefly tried and 
it was very difficult…maybe due to corrosion.  Plan is to try again after some 
PB Blaster or other compound to assist in loosening.  I don’t know when the 
stuffing was replaced previously.

Looking for some help in selecting the correct stuffing/packing size.  I 
believe you select the diameter of the packing material according to the shaft 
size???

Many thanks for the help, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Brett Robertson
Oshkosh, WI



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Greg Sutherland via CnC-List]

I'm loving your input gentleman,

I agree completely. I come from a construction background so plan on using a 
cement type of mortar used for anchoring large industrial equipment. Once fully 
cured it has a load rating of 8100 lbs/sq in, doesn't shrink and is unaffected 
by water. I was certain the loads wouldn't exceed that but wanted to make sure. 
 My plan going forward once excavated was to pour 4-5 " of the mortar to level 
up the base and then fabricate a steel post with a bottom and top plate with a 
hole for the forward keel bolt to hold everything in place and then glass in 
the top. I was tempted to just fill the entire cavity with the mortar and move 
on but thought the compression post was a better plan.until I read what 
your father said. Maybe he's right, top it up and call it a day.

The mortar I plan to use is called Sikagrout 212 but states that after 6" of 
depth you need an aggregate filler. Maybe something with less weight could be 
used to retain strength in the grout and filling the cavity would definitely be 
the way to go.
Thought?

Greg


On Jun 28, 2017, at 7:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did mine I briefly went down the 
calculation rabbit hole, looking at the properties of materials etc and I 
realized there was no way for me to calculate the hypothetical combined load of 
keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's worth of bashing a rock at 4kts.   
My brain elected to look at the original construction and make it stronger 
(compression posts, epoxy, carbon fibre) and move on to other projects.   I 
used glass and carbon fibre (recommended by the local composites purveyor) 
instead of AL as others have done, but,  same idea.   My dad (builder of many 
boats- now in NS) suggested concrete as fill and he was probably right.

Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: "Russ & Melody" >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

Hi Dave,

Watch those units.
4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of this world for a 33 foot boat.
When I did the mast loading while designing the rig of my old 60' cruiser it 
was 100,000 lbs and he's telling you it's twice that??

I would go with Joe's suggestion of 1/2" aluminum plate and move on to other 
projects.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:24 AM 27/06/2017, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458E0206231C27457085F24B1DC0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with Danny from Klacko spars yesterday 
and he's certain that he would have installed my original mast in '87. He 
figures even when falling into a wave with full sails the forces wouldn't 
exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him.
I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on the weekend so I'll definitely 
run it past him - thanks for mentioning that.

I have the entire mast step "excavated" to the keel and am starting the 
rebuild. Can't wait for this one to be finished!

Thanks!
Greg
33 mk2
Halifax

On Jun 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I used a total of ½†  aluminum on mine when I rebuilt it. It looks about 20 
times stronger than the original was too.

Joe
Coquina
CC 35 MK I
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Greg - agreed with Russ (and Joe.)  When I did mine I briefly went down the
calculation rabbit hole, looking at the properties of materials etc and I
realized there was no way for me to calculate the hypothetical combined
load of keel bolt torque, mast/rig, and one bolt's worth of bashing a rock
at 4kts.   My brain elected to look at the original construction and make
it stronger (compression posts, epoxy, carbon fibre) and move on to
other projects.   I used glass and carbon fibre (recommended by the local
composites purveyor) instead of AL as others have done, but,  same idea.
My dad (builder of many boats- now in NS) suggested concrete as fill and he
was probably right.

Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: "Russ & Melody" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2017 21:52:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

Hi Dave,

Watch those units.
4000 PSI on a 6" x 8" mast step plane is out of this world for a 33 foot
boat.
When I did the mast loading while designing the rig of my old 60' cruiser
it was 100,000 lbs and he's telling you it's twice that??

I would go with Joe's suggestion of 1/2" aluminum plate and move on to
other projects.

Cheers, Russ
*Sweet *35 mk-1

At 08:24 AM 27/06/2017, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="_000_BY2PR02MB458E0206231C27457085F
24B1DC0BY2PR02MB458namprd_"

Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with Danny from Klacko spars
yesterday and he's certain that he would have installed my original mast in
'87. He figures even when falling into a wave with full sails the forces
wouldn't exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him.
I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on the weekend so I'll
definitely run it past him - thanks for mentioning that.

I have the entire mast step "excavated" to the keel and am starting the
rebuild. Can't wait for this one to be finished!

Thanks!
Greg
33 mk2
Halifax

On Jun 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I used a total of ½†  aluminum on mine when I rebuilt it. It looks about
20 times stronger than the original was too.

Joe
Coquina
CC 35 MK I
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!