Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)
Russ & Melody, LOL! I don’t see where is says that but if it does it’s clearly an error. Brien Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 26, 2019, at 22:28, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to >cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous > (Josh Muckley) > 2. Nexus classic parts on eBay (Dennis C.) > 3. Re: 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous > (David Risch) > 4. Re: 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous > (Edd Schillay) > 5. Re: C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT) (Russ & Melody) > > > > > > ___ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)
The Rod Rigging was replace once that I can tell from the records about 10 years ago. The engine is raw water cooled. Yes, she has pressurized hot and cold water. Sails were replaced about 5 years ago. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)
We have bought a new boat and have to let our TAZ go. I've only had her for a few years but she has been great to us. Below is the link to her Facebook ad. Please let anybody know that might be interested. R/ Brien Sadler https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2649261335107049/ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Surveyors.
Because I trust the opinions of the meticulous folks on this list I’m asking for recommendations for a good surveyor in the southern New England (CT, MA, RI) and in MD. We are in the final stages of choosing a live aboard world cruiser, (not a C I’m sad to say) and will be in need of a good surveyor in one of those places. Consequently our TAZ 1987 35-3 will be on the market soon looking for a good home if anyone knows an interested party. Thanks for all the help. Brien Sadler Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Cutless bearing.
Any 35-3 owners have a suggested replacement cutless bearing. Mine has a little play in it and I think it’s time. I know the shaft is 1 inch diameter. Any help is greatly appreciated. Brien Sadler TAZ C 35-3 Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Hull products
I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well. Thanks, Brien Sadler TAZ 1987 C 35-3 Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C 35-3 actual draft.
I’m taking my boat to be hauled out tomorrow, the marina I’m headed to is pretty shallow. I’ve never actually measured for myself, does anyone know what the actual draft of a 1987 35-3 is? I know it’s over 6 ft, but I don’t know how much. Thanks in advance. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ ‘87 C 35-3 Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 35-3 Bimini
In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information, pictures, or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ 1987 C 35-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bow weldment problem.
I was thinking G10 as well. Just to be clear, I did an terrible job of explaining what I found. I’ll have to take some pictures and post them later this week when I go back to the boat. Thanks again. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ C 35 MKIII Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Bow weldment problem.
Listers, I was in my chain locker today on TAZ looking at where the wire for the running lights passes through the hull and into the chain locker, when I noticed that there is a piece of wood partially surrounded by fiberglass that looks like a backing for attaching the bow weldment with the chocks on it to the deck. This piece of wood is completely rotten and the bow weldment is now loose. Has anyone with a 35-3 run into this problem and if you did what did you do to fix. Thanks for your help. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ 1987 C 35 Mk III Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Rocha
Listers, Quick question to all the 35-3 owners. Does anyone have a Rocna anchor and if so does the standard Rocna fit or do I need the Vulcan to fit that anchor roller weldment? Thanks for the help. P.S. I’m not looking to get into the anchor debate I did a bunch of research none are perfect and anything I feel is better than the tired CQR that I have now. Thanks Brien Sadler S/V TAZ 1987 C 35-3 Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.
I have a 35-3 and my solar vent fan is though my forward hatch. Have any 35-3 owners put their solar vent fan through the deck, possibly into the head and do you have pictures? I’m considering moving mine since I’d like more natural light coming in the v-berth. In addition all my hatches have the spider cracks in them has anyone replaced their acrylic with Plexi, sent their hatches to Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT to be refurbed or replaced them all together with Bomar or Lewmar hatches? I’m interested in everyone’s opinions and experience. Thanks, Brien Sadler S/V TAZ C 35-3 Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal
I’m a firm believer in shutting the through hulls every time I leave the boat. Probably the submariner in me that doesn’t like to expose piping to sea pressure when I can let a valve take the brunt of it. Always a “straight board”. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal
It sounds like both options are good options. I guess now the question is how much I want to spend to stop the water from coming in the bilge. Last season I knew of two leaks I had letting water in the bilge the access plate on the water pump was leaking when I ran the engine and the stuffing box was leaking as well. The stuffing box was leaking at a rate of 84 drops per minute in the middle of the summer. When I went to adjust the packing there was so much verdigris on the packing assembly that the jam nut wouldn’t budge. In addition the hose between the log and the packing was old and was twisting at the slightest force. To avoid tearing the rubber hose I left it alone since the bilge pump was keeping up with it and decided to tackle the job on the hard before next season. I appreciate the insights on both sides. Now I’m not sure I want to spend close to $250 for a dripless packing when I could replace the hose and flax for less than $50 especially when I know I’ll only own this boat a few years. Always decisions to make. Thanks, Brien S/V TAZ C 35-3 Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal
This is why I love this group, lots of great experience to draw on. I’m reconsidering switching based on the advice. I never heard about or thought about the catastrophic potential with the PSS. It’s also significantly less expensive to keep what I have and re-pack. Thanks again. Brien Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal
Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small through hull at the top of the transom. Thanks, Brien Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts
The only reason I worry about the mast leak is water in the bilge in the winter. It’s probably from being a submariner for close to 20 years, that in my mind water in the bilge is a big “No No”. I don’t want it turning to ice and causing problems. I have a bottle that catches most of the water that drips to the mast step, but when we have a couple of deluge days like we had yesterday in CT the bottle over flows into the bilge. I poured a little anti-freeze in the bilge at the beginning of the season to keep any over flow from freezing, and that worked pretty well. Since it was warm out today I vacuumed everything out and it’s dry but who knows in the next 2-3 months how many more 3-4 inches of rain days we’re going to have. Any other suggestions on rain water in the bilge and how to deal with it in the winter would be great. Also, I think I’m going to leave the keel bolts just like they are and inspect on a regular basis. They seem to be fine and the previous owners left them that way and they seemed to know what they were doing. So I’ll just keep an eye on it. Thanks again. Brien Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts
To clarify so the C owner's group doesn't try to Keelhaul, flog, or have my surveyor walk the plank. He didn't suggest the epoxy. It was the only information I had found in my limited search for a solution to "seal the keel bolts" in accordance with his recommendation. I asked the question here because I didn't want to do anything idiotic without leveraging the probably hundreds of years of sailing and boat maintenance experience that this group has. The message is clear the epoxy is out, and I may be an idiot for even thinking it may be a viable solution, but I'm the idiot that knows when to ask a question. Thank you for your (in some cases passionate) help. I appreciate what you all bring to this forum and all that I've learned from reading your posts. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ 1987 C 35-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts
Rob, Thanks for the response. The surveyor didn't make a recommendation at all on how to "seal" them. The nuts are exposed and I have no signs of water intrusion in or out of the bilge through the keel bolts (i.e. damp line where the keel meets the stub or water coming in the boat while in the water.) so I'm hesitant to do anything with it at all. On the mast boot I read somewhere that someone had used wax from a toilet ring around their mast and it worked pretty well, but if you are saying that it will always leak a little I'm sure it's going to be a constant source of annoyance from me. Thanks again for the help. Brien On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 1:35 PM, robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote: > Brien: > > You can have a mast boot sealed with a good tape and put a little bead of > caulking/silicone etc. in the mast trackthat show solve that problem > however you will never keep all the water out from the mast sheaves, > etcthere will always be a drip inside the mast in a rain. > > Regarding your keel bolts, you said " the surveyor wrote that the keel > bolts need to be sealed"..can't be sure exactly what he meant but any > qualified surveyor would never recommend pouring epoxy into the bilge until > the bolts are covered.if the bolts are covered, then the nuts are > covered.doesn't make sense. He probably meant backing off the nuts, > removing the washers and/or plates, resealing the bolts, replace the > washers/plates and re torquing the nuts. I'd do that but I would never > pour epoxy into the bilge to correct any this issue. The nuts and bolts > should always remain exposed. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32- 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > > On 2018-02-12 2:19 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote: > > I'm sure both of these topics have been covered before, but A) any > suggestions on keeping the little bit of water that drips down the mast > from coming in at all? I'd like to seal it up completely (old submariner > habit of trying to keep all the water out of the people tank.) B) When I > had the boat surveyed the surveyor wrote that the keel bolts need to be > sealed which I assume means prepping and then pouring epoxy into the bilge > until the bolts are covered. Has anyone done this on a 35-3 or do you know > what the ramifications are if I leave them exposed. It doesn't seem to be > impacting anything right now but as with anything exposed to sea water it > will eventually. Thanks for helping a newbie out. > > Brien > S/V TAZ > 1987 C 35-3 > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts
I'm sure both of these topics have been covered before, but A) any suggestions on keeping the little bit of water that drips down the mast from coming in at all? I'd like to seal it up completely (old submariner habit of trying to keep all the water out of the people tank.) B) When I had the boat surveyed the surveyor wrote that the keel bolts need to be sealed which I assume means prepping and then pouring epoxy into the bilge until the bolts are covered. Has anyone done this on a 35-3 or do you know what the ramifications are if I leave them exposed. It doesn't seem to be impacting anything right now but as with anything exposed to sea water it will eventually. Thanks for helping a newbie out. Brien S/V TAZ 1987 C 35-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak (John and Maryann Read)
John and Maryann, We love here as well and the previous owners were very helpful. They are great people. We are at Thames Yacht Club during the summer and still up at Midway in the winter. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ 1987 C 35-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Exterior Teak
My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to refinish it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was wondering if anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking for recommendations. Brien Sadler S/V TAZ C 35-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Split in keel.
I recently discovered this split in the trailing edge of my keel (photo provided via google drive link below). It looks as though the split has exposed the lead of the keel. The rest of the keel looks fine. No evidence of any water intrusion of any kind in the keel to stub joint. No C smile at all. Has anyone seen anything like this or had to make this repair on their boat. This is my first season with her and I'd rather not get into a super expensive keel repair if I don't have to. My thoughts were inject with epoxy, cover with glass mat, sand, fair, and repaint. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzW7COeyzYvZRTY5VFNtQWRlLUgtUnFianBxUmpOQXYtYThV Brien Sadler 1987 C 35-3 Norwich, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
