Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[david--- via CnC-List]

Hull 35-2 #207 has a manufacturers plate at the forward end of the cockpit 
well, as well as the USCG HIN on the transom. It was built in 1973.

David Kelly
Baraka C 35-2
Noroton, CT

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sorry, but I think C discontinued the manufacturers plate when they went to 
> the USCG mandated HIN system which became effective Nov 1, 1972.  This boat 
> is a 1974.  :(
>   -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 12:48 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Of all the models to not have the cove strip ... oh well thanks anyways.  My 
> search will continue 
> 
> I guess the only other thing would be the manufacturer’s plate ...
> 
> And then I’ll learn they didn’t put those in this model either :-)
> 
> JK
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[david--- via CnC-List]

I believe neither the 35-1 or 35-2 have the star and dagger.  I believe that I 
once read that the 35-1 was one of the first boats designed under the C 
umbrella and the star and dagger had not yet been adopted as a distinctive 
mark.  For the 35-2, I believe C modified the same  hull mold they had used 
for 35-1 with modifications to the stern.  So no star and dagger for it.

David Kelly
Baraka  C 35-2
Noroton CT

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 12:19 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've never seen a Mk2 with the star/ sword. Mine #255 does not.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C Mk2
> Bristol RI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/1/2020 12:10 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
>> My 35 MkII hull number 242 does not have the star and dagger. 
>> 
>> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 11:26 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> JohnKelly,
>> 
>> I'm not sure the 35 MkII has the star / sword.  I know the MkI doesn't.  Can 
>> any MKII owner verify that?
>> 
>> Otherwise, I'll take my Sawzall and see if I can get them if Mike will let 
>> me cut the boat.
>> 
>>   -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[david--- via CnC-List]

I am not sure this picture will be small enough for the list. When I bought my 
35-2, I found a memo from C in the nav  table saying the maximum back stay 
tension is 2050 pounds



David Kelly
Baraka C 35-2
Noroton, CT

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 6:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Bailey
> 
> I have one of those earlier C 35 Mk2 ('74 #255) and have not tried to 
> attach the bulkheads to the overhead.  She does work in heavy air.  Two years 
> ago the original outboard holding tank failed, which I had to remove by 
> dismantling the head's bulkheads and cabinetry.  I replaced all screws with 
> slightly larger ones since more than 50% were missing or stripped.  I put a 
> new holding tank under the v berth and replaced all the screws connect the 
> glass to the wood cabinetry in the forward cabin - 75 % were missing or 
> backed out.  We are not shy about pushing her hard in the last 40 years I 
> have raced her. Last year hit 11.8 kts in a double-hander spin run.  She does 
> creak and grown.  The most annoying thing is the head door will not stay 
> close and bangs open when we are working her hard.  About ten years ago I did 
> an experiment at the dock of running a line from pulpit to pulpit (weight and 
> small block at bow for constant tension) and ran the backstay up to 3000 psi 
> - the line rose 2" up the mast (original unbending, telephone pole mast).  
> The most tension I will put on backstay when sailing in very heavy air is 
> 2200 - 2500 PSI.  Since we still compete in the top 10% of PHRF races, I have 
> no intention of changing the original set up.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol RI
> 
> 
> On 6/10/2020 12:07 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:
>> Has anyone added material to tie the bulkheads to the liners for those 
>> earlier boats?  I wasn't sure if the liner could take it or if some work 
>> would need to be done to grind out the liner and fiberglass directly to the 
>> hull laminate, which would be more involved and error prone.
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Rob Ball 
>> To: Shawn Wright , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:39:15 +
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"
>> Earlier C’s had the bulkheads ‘floating’ in the headliner groove, and as 
>> we got into larger sizes (bigger loads) those tie downs were the solution.
>> 
>> On the C 40, there were a lot of warranty claims for those leaks, and 
>> eventually it was decided to stiffen up things to prevent this.  The first 
>> boat was the new C 35 and the bulkheads were ‘tabbed’ to the deck – much 
>> stiffer . . . . BUT . . . . it meant that the headliner, which is installed 
>> on the deck when it’s upside down, had to leave space for the tabbing after 
>> the deck is placed on the hull.  And then those spaces had to be covered up 
>> with separate pieces to blend with the headliner after the tabbing . . . . 
>> Much more labor and cost . . .
>> 
>> But – a much stiffer boat – the sailmakers loved the straighter headstay  . .
>> 
>> Victory by the designer over the accountants . . . .
>> 
>> The downside, other than cost is that when you hit a rock – the damage is 
>> more extensive, because the boat is now actually more brittle  . . .
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rob Ball   C 34
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C-34

[Pamela & David via CnC-List]

Hello

Has any one moved the mainsheet traveler from the cabin top to just in
front the wheel?  When sailing wife the wife I find adjustments to the main
difficult at times.  Have tried playing with the traveler but the sheet
tension is the problems.
Any thoughts

David
MUDPUDDLE ( Whitby)


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Re: Stus-List C 37 with spartite

[david--- via CnC-List]

It was a while ago, but I put spartite in on my 35-2 with mast straps in place. 
The mast has come out a number of times, so it clearly worked. 

To the best of my recollection, I coated the straps and the inside of the mast 
collar carefully with vaseline. After reinstalling the straps I filled the gap 
between the collar and the straps with the putty that comes with the spartite. 
I may have also puttied around the edges of the straps above deck where they 
meet the collar. The idea is to make sure that the straps release from the 
spartite bonded to the mast and from mast collar. 

Spartite is definitely worth the effort. Just make sure you are happy with you 
mast rake before you pour. 

David Kelly
Baraka, C 35-2

> On Sep 17, 2019, at 3:44 PM, Bill via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I did that on my 39, and I removed those annoying straps. I put A Rod going 
> from the top center of the mask collar, with a flathead on the top end of the 
> rod, sealed in butyl. On the bottom I had a turnbuckle, and I drilled and 
> tapped into a keel bolt and put 3/8 in threads into the keelbolt for the 
> bottom of the turnbuckle. I think some of the newer boats had something 
> similar to that.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> On Sep 17, 2019 3:14 PM, "pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> I have a 1984 37’ and am considering using spartite.  
> 
> Has anyone done this on the this model?  How did you accommodate the tie down 
> straps?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[David via CnC-List]

While sail furled (or even unfurled if jibing) attach sheet to pole.  Attach 
inner end of pole to mast. Attach topping lift and fore-guy.  Raise pole up to  
clew of sale whilst under some fore-guy tension.

Unroll sail with sheet while playing out foreguy.

Reverse to put away.

As Andy said...should not be a big deal if you plan ahead.

FYI.  My spin pole is aluminum and almost 17' feet long.

For the  number of times we do this its kinda hard to amortize the cost of 
carbon fibre.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2019 2:20 PM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and 
height

One other thing to keep in mind: if you do damage a pole, and it’s carbon 
fiber, it’s going to be a pricey fix.  With aluminum, you can usually remove 
and reuse the end fittings and get new tubing; or if the damage is near an end 
fitting, cut the damaged tubing off and reinstall the end fitting on a shorter, 
but still usable, pole.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 3, 2019, at 1:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That is kind of variable. My aluminum spinnaker pole is heavy and awkward for 
me to deal with. I would LOVE the weight reduction of a carbon fiber pole. It 
would make a hard job easy.
No budget for it through and I can handle the pole, so I do. If I was 5 feet 
tall and 100 pounds, a carbon pole would be more of a requirement than a luxury.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]

[David via CnC-List]

Bruce is still at it (sent to my email directly last night).  Apparently no 
insurance.   No surprise there either way...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 10:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]

Well done, Bill.  I believe you figured it out.

From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 6:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]


I believe this is an April Fool waste of time..
Bill Walker

Bill Walker



On Monday, April 1, 2019 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
wrote:


I am more than a little confused here. Who is your insurance carrier? Why would 
they take some random internet person’s word for a boat’s value over an 
accredited marine surveyor? It is a bit odd this is even a question, I know 
what my hull value is already on my policy, it is plainly stated.





Joe

Coquina







From: Bruce Roland [mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 2:16 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL]



They will not accept anything from a surveyor so yes it would help.

Bruce Roland



On Mon, Apr 1, 2019, 1:07 PM Della Barba, Joe 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> wrote:

That looks like a 30, not a 36.

I am not a marine surveyor, so I am not sure why your insurance would believe 
my valuation more than anyone else’s. Just give them a list of similar (not 
wrecked) boats for sale. No insurance company will pay more to fix the boat 
than what you would pay to get another one.





Joe Della Barba

Coquina









From: Bruce Roland 
[mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 1:50 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL]



The boat has been destroyed, I'm wanting in writing saying to rebuild what cost 
could vs replacement.

Please

Bruce Roland

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]

[David via CnC-List]

Perhaps there is no insurance...

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 4:17:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe; 'Bruce Roland'
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]

I am more than a little confused here. Who is your insurance carrier? Why would 
they take some random internet person’s word for a boat’s value over an 
accredited marine surveyor? It is a bit odd this is even a question, I know 
what my hull value is already on my policy, it is plainly stated.


Joe
Coquina



From: Bruce Roland [mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 2:16 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL]

They will not accept anything from a surveyor so yes it would help.
Bruce Roland

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019, 1:07 PM Della Barba, Joe 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> wrote:
That looks like a 30, not a 36.
I am not a marine surveyor, so I am not sure why your insurance would believe 
my valuation more than anyone else’s. Just give them a list of similar (not 
wrecked) boats for sale. No insurance company will pay more to fix the boat 
than what you would pay to get another one.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina




From: Bruce Roland 
[mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 1:50 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL]

The boat has been destroyed, I'm wanting in writing saying to rebuild what cost 
could vs replacement.
Please
Bruce Roland
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Re: Stus-List Serpentine conversion

[David via CnC-List]

Yup.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 6:00:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Serpentine conversion

Generally, there is a limit on the alternator (and the pump) regarding how much 
power you can get off the engine using a single V-belt. Once you exceed around 
80-90 A (some claim that you can go as high as 120 A) on the alternator, you 
should start using either a dual V-belt or a serpentine belt solution. At some 
point the single V-belt will start to slip and this is bad for the belt (and 
pulleys).

Just my $0.02

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 13:16
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Serpentine conversion

The ElectroMAXX seems very well made.  The price I've seen just seems 
astronomical for the minimal benefits.

Counterpoints?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Sun, Mar 31, 2019, 1:01 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I used the ElectroMAAX kit on my Yanmar 3HM35F.  The pulleys are well made, but 
the brackets took a little fiddling with.  It appears there are more than 1 
3HM35Fs.  I'm happy with the final solution.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 9:38 AM Bill via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Has anyone converted their alternator to a serpentine belt on a Yanmar? I am 
wondering if there are sources other than the Balmar conversion kit for the 
pulleys that are exclusive to the engine, like the water pump and the 
crankshaft.
Bill Coleman
C 39
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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[David via CnC-List]

If I were racing in that neck of the woods I would like some clarification of 
this.   Unrestricted pole length is a major advantage...especially in light 
airs.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Brown via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2019 12:40:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

Not much in the PHRF-LO Handicapper's manual on the topic. It is covered in
meeting notes from 2008 and 2009.

WPL penalty – There will no longer be a penalty for oversized Whisker Pole 
lengths.

2009 Spring Meeting.

https://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php/about-us/meetings/central-council/205-2009-spring-meeting

It would be nice if there was some definitive statement in the current 
documentation but I
do not see any.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1




Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2019 12:45:53 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 


Michael

Check the PHRF-LO bylaws carefully.  In PHRF-NS the whicker pole is considered 
to be a spinnaker pole which is limited to J.  You may wish to look in a 
definitions section if one is available.  I have been involved with 
handicapping for many years in our region and this is my understanding of how 
most areas do it.  However I do know there are some areas that have separate 
limit for whisker pole than for spinnaker pole that is permitted to be longer 
than J ? I just cannot recall at this time which areas those are

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing

[David via CnC-List]

Matt...I use land based fixtures.   Cheaper and more choice for the CDO (chief 
decorating officer).

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matt King via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 10:52:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matt King
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing

C 41.  With wet head.  The sink/shower fixtures are shot.

I need recommendations on replacement.

Thank you

Matt
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Stus-List Special recipe?

[David via CnC-List]

One more rime...for the oil for the bulkheads?

Thanks in advance

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Genoa track

[David via CnC-List]

Bruce,

I removed my headliner (cut, scraped...it was ugly and messy) at the point of 
installation, got to the underside of the deck, hrough bolted, and covered the 
whole thing with a strip of finished teak.  Looks like it belongs there.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 8:42 AM
To: CNC List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore; Len Mitchell
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Genoa track

Hi Len,

You ask an excellent question, but Rob Ball let me know that he found out that 
they didn't start encapsulating a bar of aluminum below the genoa tracks until 
much later, so unfortunately I am stuck with tracks that are through-bolted 
without having holes in the head liner.  So, I'm stuck with drilling a bunch of 
holes through the headliner if I want to rebed, or keep trying Captain 
Tolley's.  Thankfully, the leaks aren't bad at all...

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL  34677
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


On Thursday, March 21, 2019, 12:53:25 PM EDT, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bruce, where is it leaking if the bolts do not penetrate the deck? Sorry I am 
having issues wrapping my head around how they are fastened after what Rob 
added. The force generated by the head sail can be substantial. They have got 
to be thru bolted like the rest of the fleet.
Len

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Genoa track leaking on a '94 37/40+, can't seem to access underside?

[David via CnC-List]

When I ground out the headliner to get to the cabin-top under-deck (what a 
mess) to install my blade tracks, I had the boat yard fabricate a routed strip 
of teak to cover the whole mess.  Looks like it was always there.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:54 AM
To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa track leaking on a '94 37/40+, can't seem to 
access underside?

Bruce,

That is fascinating, On the Enterprise, there are holes with plastic covers all 
along that underside. I’m guessing the previous owner of yours sealed that all 
up. I wonder why.

I’m thinking you’re going to have to figure out exactly where the holes were 
and drill new ones (and get new caps) — spooking of which, does anyone know a 
source e to get new caps?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









On Mar 20, 2019, at 9:27 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello all,

I saw a while back that Josh Muckley had taken off and rebedded his port side 
Genoa track, and had tightened the port side, in both cases eliminating leaks.  
I have a slight leak as well, and tried some Captain Tolley's in the short 
term, and it helped but did not eliminate the issue.  I'd like to deal with it 
more permanently.  The issue is, I cannot seem to find where to access any of 
the nuts on the underside.  I've looked in the cabinets, etc.  Included are 
links to a couple photos.  In the last photo, you can see where the track is 
mounted immediately outside the fixed port, and from there, looking at the 
inside you can see where, if the nuts were going to be accessible, they should 
be immediately behind the wood "rail" that shields the small light above the 
fridge.

View of fridge and galley 
area.jpg
View of underside of Genoa 
track.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lws3x9cz1lfw7as/View%20through%20fixed%20port%2C%20starboard%20side.jpg?dl=0

Any ideas?

I could try simply tightening them from the top, but I'd be concerned about 
spinning the nut on the underside and tearing up the sealant that is there, 
making the leak worse.

Looking forward to your insights,


Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List Head Re-furbishing...

[David via CnC-List]

So the galley refurb is going well so I am now looking at my very tired looking 
head.  Teak wood everywhere.   And later looking pretty sad.

Two questions.  Painting the primary wall and behind the head to add color and 
to make it a bit more sanitary.   In the process want to remove the hand rail 
on same wall if possible.   No  screws on the back wall and no plugs on the 
hand-rail.   Is the dang thing glued on?  Doubtful, but I do not see a 
attachment point.

And besides washing with TSP and sanding to bring back the remaining wood 
finish...any other secrets on the the interior bulkheads?

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern

[David via CnC-List]

True that...and that's what makes it fun.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 12:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern


Not so. When a race is 400-700 or more miles long, you get the weather you get.





Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 11:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern



Gentlemen may not sail to weather, but a wise sailor is probably not racing 
when there are gale warnings out…



A deep double reefed main and a small blade or storm headsail will get you to 
hull speed in those conditions, and greatly reduce the load on the rigging.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern



Agree with philosophy of not using main in heavy winds astern.



OTOH, I wonder about the unbalanced forces on the stays/boat when a stern wind 
is 30+ knots even with some of

the 'telephone pole' masts on some C when only a head sail is flown.



Mine mast is rather bendy with check stays and in high winds downwind, in 
addition to keeping her under control, I admit to some fear of a gravity storm 
if I only used the head sail (or with both sails for that matter!).



Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern

[David via CnC-List]

Unless the mast is raked forward and the backstay is loose and the mast was 
able to be inverted and your baby is loose...you will be fine.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 11:04:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern

No question, it would be great to hear form the people who design these masts, 
but I don’t believe that in a normal boat, the mast would be weakened by 
dropping the main.

>From a lay person point of view, when running, the main is not supporting the 
>mast much. I can imagine that it does, to a degree, when you are close to wind 
>(the main plus the main sheet provide an extra support of the mast from the 
>aft).

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Morgan Ellis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 16:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Morgan Ellis 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern

I would love to hear Mr. Ball chime in on this thread, if possible, from a mast 
design point of view. I have been told by a very experienced offshore sailor 
and the instructor of Offshore Sea Survival courses, that the masts are 
designed to have a mainsail hoisted and are not stable or properly supported 
without it. The instructor stated that if you were to drop the main because of 
high winds that you should be hoisting a storm sail in its place, if for no 
other reason than to support the mast. Since then the only time I will run on 
jib alone is in light air drifting around the harbour for an evening pleasure 
cruise.

Regards,

Morgan Ellis
s/v Meandher
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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake

[David via CnC-List]

Or leave the main down downwind.   Anytime it blowing hard enough to worry 
about jibing,  main is probably not going to add alot of speed, but will cause 
more helm and worry.

Jib alone is so simple.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake


Or, you can chicken jibe, something I believe I will be doing more of in the 
future.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 9:03 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake



Since I posted this, I have been doing some research on Cruisers Forum.  THere 
are a number of people who use the Dutchman, swear by them, have installed them 
on multiple boats and would not have a boat without one.  I suspect it is one 
of those devices that once you learn how to use it, you find it essential.  
Watching videos of it in action, I can see its utility, especially for 
single/short handed racing and cruising.  First, it can act as a preventer, 
which eliminates the need for both.  Without a brake, when you gybe in heavier 
air and you are trying to pull the main in to reduce the swing force, and so 
your steering angle becomes increasingly critical to not gybe, plus your speed 
decreases increasing the wind pressure on the main.  The longer it takes you to 
pull in the main, the worse the problem and with a big purchase mainsheet, that 
can be alot of line.  I raced single handed  once last season in 20 knots and 
did a autopilot gybe that worked out fine but was hairy enough to scare me.  
With the Dutchman, you wait for max speed or a lull, gybe the boat and genoa, 
then release the brake to allow the boom to slowly swing over.  At least in 
theory, it is much more controlled.If you are confident of your brake 
setting, you could simply gybe and let the brake do its job, but that would 
take some testing to work out.  I still think this is an option worth 
considering for those of us who tend to sail shorthanded.  Dave



1990 C 34+

New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D4DD6F.632FEAA0]


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Re: Stus-List best price for life raft re-certification

[David via CnC-List]

Check LRSE in Portmouth, RI...although I am not sure how much cheaper they 
would be.  Might be worth the shipping.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dan via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Stus-List best price for life raft re-certification

I want to get my Zodiac brand 6 man life raft re-certified. It's 15 years old. 
Last inspected in 2011. The local shop here charges $700 Canadian + extra for 
whatever is expired so probably over $1000 after taxes. I'm willing to send the 
raft away for a better price. Anyone know of a cheaper way?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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Stus-List Build Files

[David via CnC-List]

I have requested twice my build file from South Shore yachts. No.dice.  I 
wonder if there isn't a bunch of boxes somewhere that, understandably, they 
can't be bothered searching through given the amount of money they could 
charge. Is there anybody local who might be able to get those boxes and we can 
contribute to buy them on masse and distribute them appropriately and recoup 
the investment?

Just a thought

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Rib for Sale?

[David via CnC-List]

Can the "bow cow" be far off...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rib for Sale?


Try these guys. It's usually good stuff.

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-USDA-Choice-Beef-Rib-Standing-Rib-Bone-In.product.100474186.html

:)

Cheers, Russ



At 11:18 AM 3/1/2019, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 
boundary="_000_DM6PR16MB2922CC5ED33E48DB15E097C9DA760DM6PR16MB2922namp_"

Anyone selling a RIB?

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[[]] 

  Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Stus-List Rib for Sale?

[David via CnC-List]

Anyone selling a RIB?

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List Lady Down...

[David via CnC-List]

Jack stands...big  winds (gusting to 60) here in Southcoast MA yesterday.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lady Down...

Cradles or jack stands?

From: John Irvin via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: John Irvin<mailto:skis...@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lady Down...


Sorry for all of you. Hope things work out and damage can be repaired.



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Borge via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 12:15:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lady Down...

Unfortunately my boat was the first in line. A C that we’ve had just under 
a year.
Not a good scene.
Hoping we all come out ok.
Chuck B


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 26, 2019, at 10:50 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One of our brethren, Double Black, a C & C 40, owned by Adam Marks, was tumbled 
upon in the hard and fell over.  High winds, flapping canvas and un-stepped 
masts all contributed to the 3 boat domino effect.   Oddly enough the first 
boat was also a C 37/40 I believe.

Double Black attended a number of our New England Rendezvouss.

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

[David via CnC-List]

4 cycle 85 lbs...2 cycle 40.

>From my Android


From: David 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 2:54:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

Yes its definately heavier.   Will weigh when back at house.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 2:38:19 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

Your 4 cycle eight is a lot heavier than your 2 cycle four. Might make the boat 
out of balance.

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 10:48 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a 9' high pressure floor Avon that is in good shap.  My 4hp 2cycle died. 
 I have a barely used 4 cycle mercury 8hp that I would like to throw on it to 
save buying a new boat or motor.  Avon spec plate says max HP is 6 hp.   I am 
thinking that as long as I dont hot-rod  the dink I should be able to get away 
with it?

Or am I missing something...

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List Lady Down...

[David via CnC-List]

One of our brethren, Double Black, a C & C 40, owned by Adam Marks, was tumbled 
upon in the hard and fell over.  High winds, flapping canvas and un-stepped 
masts all contributed to the 3 boat domino effect.   Oddly enough the first 
boat was also a C 37/40 I believe.

Double Black attended a number of our New England Rendezvouss.

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker sail wanted--light air

[David via CnC-List]

Www.L-36.com has a used sail compiler from all sources

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2019 6:15:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert; Brett Robertson
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker sail wanted--light air

Brett

Try Bacon Sails...they might have what you are looking for.

We raced a 33 MKII and used a 0.5 oz. most of the timein heavier air
we used the 1.5 oz.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax N.S.

On 2019-02-24 6:50 p.m., Brett Robertson via CnC-List wrote:
> Anyone have a light weight symmetric spinnaker sail they would like to sell?  
> I have a 1.5oz, and want something for lighter winds.  Maybe .5oz or .75oz.  
> If you are familiar with any used sail websites or new sail companies that 
> are reasonable please let me know.
>
> I own a 1986 33 mk2.
>
> Thank you,
> Brett
>
> brettrobertso...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>


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Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque

[David via CnC-List]

Renting a large torque wrench is a easy solution...

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 5:46:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bolts, nuts and torque

Thanks for chiming in Josh. I like not buying a multiplier!

Will have a look for a 250 ft-lb wrench etc. and review your video.

Good catch on the the stud size—my msmt was with a ruler across the stud but 
was likely across the inside of the thread groove—plus 7/8” seems a little 
strange for such a large stud. The flats on the nut were much easier to measure.

I like your ft-lb numbers since they are consistent with what I found for SS 
and reachable without a multiplier.

Thanks again,

Charlie

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Thursday, February 21, 2019, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Look in the description section of the  video for useful links.

https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc

If the flats of the nut are at 1-1/2 inch then the studs are 1 inch and you're 
looking at roughly 230 to 250 ft-lbs lubricated torque value.  A large torque 
wrench from Home Depot or Lowes should max out at 250.  It will almost 
certainly be 1/2 inch drive.  Operating any torque wrench at its high limit is 
always difficult... But doable.  I would probably try to save myself the money 
on a torque multiplier and just get the biggest torque wrench and 1/2" drive 
extensions and a 1/2 inch drive, deep, 6 point, 1-1/2" socket.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Thu, Feb 21, 2019, 1:41 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

It appears per list comments that it is OK to tighten my keel/centerboard 
'trunk' without putting her on the hard. Since I can reach most of the nuts by 
removing the cabin sole, I figure its worth a try. I cannot reach the bolts 
under the mast this way but I can probably get to most of the others. My 
keel/cb trunk is pretty wide so there are 2 rows of bolts/nuts holding it to 
the hull.

My guess is that I have 8-12 pairs of bolts and those that I can see are 7/8" 
diameter with nuts that are 1 1/2" across and appear to be stainless steel. 
BTW, my keel/cb trunk and board weigh-in at about 5600 lbs per the original 
specs.

A quick internet search on torque wrenches, multipliers and torque values with 
my bilge depth in mind indicates that I will need a 1 1/2" socket with an 
extension of ~ 12 inches and maybe a torque multiplier, depending on the torque 
required.

List sources suggest torques of over 200 ft-lbs are required and most common 
torque wrenches top out at 150 ft-lbs thus the multiplier. My quick look at 
recommended torques vs. SS (18-8) bolt sizes indicates 193-195 ft-lbs is 
recommended for my bolts which is consistent with values I have seen on the 
list and the C photo album, although a little on the low end.

OTOH, I might be able to use a bigger/longer torque wrench without the 
multiplier.

Either way, I am not certain of what drive size to either rent/borrow or 
buy--and the cost is substantial if you go from the 'standard' 1/2" drive to 
3/4" or higher.

Questions for the list:

1. Are my torque values ~ 200 ft-lbs within the ballpark? I seem to remember 
some list recommendations at ~ 350 ft-lbs!

2. Also, what is a reasonable drive size to use?

3. Should I just go with a larger torque wrench (which will reach the ft-lbs 
required without the multiplier)?

4. Any likely issues with not tightening the bolts under the mast until my 
haul-out this summer?

TIA

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb








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Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

[David via CnC-List]

Yes its definately heavier.   Will weigh when back at house.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 2:38:19 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

Your 4 cycle eight is a lot heavier than your 2 cycle four. Might make the boat 
out of balance.

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 10:48 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a 9' high pressure floor Avon that is in good shap.  My 4hp 2cycle died. 
 I have a barely used 4 cycle mercury 8hp that I would like to throw on it to 
save buying a new boat or motor.  Avon spec plate says max HP is 6 hp.   I am 
thinking that as long as I dont hot-rod  the dink I should be able to get away 
with it?

Or am I missing something...

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List Avon and engine...

[David via CnC-List]

I have a 9' high pressure floor Avon that is in good shap.  My 4hp 2cycle died. 
 I have a barely used 4 cycle mercury 8hp that I would like to throw on it to 
save buying a new boat or motor.  Avon spec plate says max HP is 6 hp.   I am 
thinking that as long as I dont hot-rod  the dink I should be able to get away 
with it?

Or am I missing something...

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List Hull windows

[David via CnC-List]

Rob...to your point check out the new Beneteau 62.  I think it looks good and 
opens up  the interior immensely.

Not everbody's Cup O' Tea, but a good idea whose time has finally come.

http://www.beneteau.com/us/oceanis-yacht/oceanis-yacht-62
Sailboats Oceanis Yacht 62 - Sailing Yacht Beneteau 
USA
The innovative layout of the Oceanis Yacht 62 boasts a spacious salon and 
plenty of separate spaces for utmost privacy and comfort. Large hull portholes 
bathe the lavish interior and show off the exclusive woodwork finishes.
www.beneteau.com




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 11:39 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull windows

Some boats can look good with hull windows, and properly engineered they should 
not be a strength factor in the hull. 
http://www.iconsailing.com/assets/homepage/k1087.jpg
Some boats look hideous with hull windows, and look like the boat will fold on 
the dotted line. 
https://www.oysteryachts.com/images/yachts/46/oyster_745_75ft_yacht_at_sea_on_body_of_water.jpg
It depends...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 at 05:41, Rob Ball via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I would love to have Windows in the hull.
But, as you mention they are always Ugly.
For sure fitting them into an existing hull that was not built for it, would be 
very unwise.  There needs to be careful structure changes if a window is fitted 
. . . . .
I dreamed of a full length stripe that was a window set into the hull, with 
occasional openings inside.  You could get the windows and a good looking boat. 
Alas, pretty hard to accomplish. The differing expansion and contraction of 
different materials with temperature changes, etc.
Some of the Baltic's these days have opening 'doors' in the hull.  You can 
imagine the engineering that goes into something like that to make the boat 
safe . . . . .
Maybe in my next life . . . . .

Rob Ball.  C 34


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and rugged.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.


Hi Marc



Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush to 
apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>









From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marc Boyd
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



Hi Mike,



Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, do 
you apply by cloth or brush...or?



In the cabin of our C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. Interested 
in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?



Cheers,



Marc



On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android





From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.

I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.

One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC





On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve



 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?

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--

marc.
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
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Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...

[David via CnC-List]

Yup.  Forgot all about that one.  Danny had mentioned it too.   Thanks!!

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:21:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...

An easy solution for avoiding the dead marine life is to plumb the head intake 
to sink drain. In normal operation you pump the water up through the drain into 
the toilet bowl (you may need to close the sink); the last flush before going 
home - you fill the sink with fresh water and use it to flush the head. No 
stink.

As a bonus you can get rid of one through hull (one fewer hole in the boat).

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 14:42
To: David via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...


Fresh water flushing does wonders for that dead marine life smell and it is an 
upgrade well worth doing.
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Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...

[David via CnC-List]

Pressurized yes.  But I was thinking of isolating it with valves for head or 
fresh water pump sourcing as needed (long trips)


>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 2:42:03 PM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...


is your water system pressurized?  if so you'd need a vacuum breaker and some 
kind of valve for filling, I've the fresh head on my boat it has a vacuum 
breaker and you open a normally closed valve to add water and then pump the 
evacuate.  So I guess the difference id the pump does not bring water in.  If 
you're still manual and pumping to fill you may just have to separate out this 
tank from the rest of the boat and this will be solely for flushing the head.  
Fresh water flushing does wonders for that dead marine life smell and it is an 
upgrade well worth doing.  I wonder if raritan makes a retrofit kit to become a 
freeah head

On 2/12/2019 1:31 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Adding a third water tank.   Thought I would plumb in fresh water flush with 
backflow protection from third tank to conventional head.  Anybody try that?

>From my Android




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Stus-List Fresh water flush...

[David via CnC-List]

Adding a third water tank.   Thought I would plumb in fresh water flush with 
backflow protection from third tank to conventional head.  Anybody try that?

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Brilliant!   Thanks for the simple and effective solution!


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of bwhitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2019 7:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

When we bought Astralis,  one of the many small problems was a broken manifold 
under the sink.  I went to ace and found a 4 hose the with individual shutoffs 
that you would normally use for a hosecond spigot.  12 or 15 bucks later the 
problem was solved.

Just my $.02 worth,

Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Speaking of manifolds.   Looking at building vs buying.   Thoughts?

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 2, 2019 7:13:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

I replaced all of the original grey plastic pipe in our boat. With the 
exception of a section where someone (ahem, looks at self…) ran a screw through 
it, it was perfectly serviceable, However, since I am replacing the fixtures in 
the head and the galley and have adde a transom-mounted cockpit shower I 
replaced all of it.

I used 1/2” SeaTech polyethylene tubing and associated fittings. The job was 
fairly easy to do and allowed for the building of a simple manifold on the 
pressure side of the system for the hot and cold outflows. The best thing that 
I did was purchase the pipe cutters to insure a clean, 90-degree cut on the 
ends.

Pictures available upon request.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

On Feb 2, 2019, at 1:57 AM, sender via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The original grey, opaque plastic pipe that was commonplace in the late 70s & 
early 80s was polybutylene.

My understanding is the issue with this material is in residential use it split 
open causing a flood, in situations where pressures AND temperatures are high 
(180F).  It was taken off the market and companies were, and still are 
reluctant to make compatible fittings out of liability fears.  Having said 
that, I've kept the poly-b in my boat as it unlikely to fail since my my water 
is only periodically under pressure, its only 40 psi, and it never gets really 
hot.  if it was in my house, I'd remove it.

Vinyl tubing tends to shrink, yellow and harden up over time.

I'd do 1/4" or 3/8" pex if I was running new, but not sharkbites for fittings, 
there are lots of other compression fitting available at lower cost.

Just my $0.02
Eric

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:07 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.

Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious choice.  
 Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to install) choices?

Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
water.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List headsail, maybe 125-135?

[David via CnC-List]

L-36.com is a great compiler of many used sails vendors...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2019 12:08 PM
To: Brian Chambers via CnC-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List headsail, maybe 125-135?

Hello all,

We had a C 27 MKIII tall rig on Lake Michigan, and found that I always used 
by 120%, and after I got it, stopped using my 100% and 150%.  By comparison, 
now that I am in the Tampa area, I found my 130% to be too little sail, and so 
I run my 150% on my roller furling all the time.  So, it all depends on the 
prevailing winds you find in your area.

As for a good place to sell sails, there are a number of them, but Bacons sells 
on consignment and has (in my opinion) the most inventory and probably the best 
flow of customers, so you stand a pretty good chance of selling a sail through 
them if it is in reasonable condition.

Good luck!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List 135% Genoa for a C 37+

[David via CnC-List]

Edd,

I will grab it...thanks!


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2019 1:51 PM
To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List 135% Genoa for a C 37+

Listers,

If anyone wants it, I’m giving away a used Quantum Sails 135% RF genoa for a 
C 37+. It’s free to anyone that wants it — just need to pick it up at my 
office in Westchester County, NY or send a pre-paid shipping label.

  *   Dacron/Mylar constriction
  *   #6 luff tape
  *   tell-tales and tell-tale windows
  *   needs a good cleaning and a little repair.

Let me know….


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Josh, Bob (and others),

Thank you.  I was thinking simple plastic barbed fittings with reinforced hose 
and hose clamps are simple and effective.  My only concern, from reading, is 
the hose not being opaque enough to eliminate any growth in the lines.  But 
then, these water hoses are all hidden and out of the sun so no issue there (I 
believe).

The PEX and Sharkbite systems all seem to be an expensive, over-engineered 
solution for this simple application.  Which is why I asked the question to 
begin with.

Thanks again.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 11:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

Shark bite is one popular manufacturer.  They are typically metal fittings and 
considerably higher cost compared to the plastic alternative made by Watts.  
Both are significantly more expensive than the barbed fittings and crimp.

In residential settings one of the significant cost advantages is the "home 
run" topology.  Since the tubing is flexible, elbows and tees are no longer 
needed like they would be on a copper installation.  Similarly the time 
associated with assembly is reduced considerably.  One continuous pipe from 
source to destination.  The bend radius and methods of securing the tube/pipe 
in place makes the "home run" a bit more challenging on board a boat.

A home run using a flexible drinking water hose product like that made by 
Shields or Trident is my choice.  The flexibility coupled with the freeze 
protection and durability all and up to a quality and lasting solution.  Use 
barbed brass fittings and clamps.  It sounds like this was Bob Boyer's solution.

Trident #162, 163, 164, or 165
https://tridentmarine.com/product/trident-reinforced-pvc-hose-164162/

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-Marine-Hoses

This is the lowest price per foot I could quickly find... And it is more 
expensive than PEX.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CR4OP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zONuCb7PXTPM7

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jan 30, 2019, 11:00 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I’ve done a couple of plumbing and landscaping projects using PEX tubing. Lowes 
and probably Home Depot sell a fitting for PEX tubing that uses small teeth 
where the fitting engages the tubing and requires no special tool. You simply 
push the fitting into the tube. I’ve not had any leaks I know of. I can’t 
recall the brand name.



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 10:06 AM
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...



I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.



Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious choice.  
 Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to install) choices?



Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
water.



Thanks in advance.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks to all.  Josh.  Danny. My research was lacking.  This email list 
continually assists.   Thank you

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 9:09:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

Keep in mind that PEX is not QEST.  I can elaborate further but really just 
Google the differences.

Also realize that the tubing used in these installations is first and foremost 
comparatively CHEAP.  These tubes are designed for stationary fixed locations.  
Some technological improvements have allowed for features such as chemical 
resistance and temperature resistance while also ensuring compliance with 
drinking water standards.  Long story short these capabilities are achievable 
in many other products, just not other cheap products.

Check out McMaster-Carr for ideas on alternative pipe, tube, and fittings.

I am a big advocate for Flar-it fittings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jan 30, 2019, 10:07 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.

Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious choice.  
 Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to install) choices?

Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
water.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Garhauer sliding jib cars

[David via CnC-List]

So many jokes...so little time...




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 3:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Garhauer sliding jib cars

I went with the Garhaur but requested the bearings.  they are a PITA to get on 
without loosing your balls, but I am pleased with them.  Again, Harken vs 
Garhauer was a price thing.

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 11:00 AM 1/30/2019, you wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2019 13:23:52 -0500
From: Gary Russell 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer sliding jib cars
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Garhauer changed their car design to plastic slides instead of ball
bearings.  The reason given was that too many people were loosing the balls
when installing them.  They will supply the ball bearing ones if
requested.  They are much better in my opinion.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

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Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[David via CnC-List]

I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.

Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious choice.  
 Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to install) choices?

Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
water.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[David via CnC-List]

I have actually used mine.   Wheel had to come off.  Dead ahead was 45? angle.  
 Was fun backing into a slip.   Had to use hip to make it move at times.   That 
was was one of those times when you appreciate your autopilot is directly 
related connected to quadrant.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:49:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

I have essentially the same emergency tiller and arrangement on my 1976
38mk2. The emergency tiller does actually work (I've fitted and tried it on
GPs and in case I need to actually use it someday). But to use it, you need
to remove the steering wheel and get it out of the way, and the effort
needed to use the tiller (which ends up being vertical and pretty close to
the axis of the rudder post) is quite high. I would certainly not want to be
using this setup for any appreciable time offshore.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
while you are standing at the wheel.

In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.

It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
for an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
30 of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
this topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Stus-List Gallley Sliders...

[David via CnC-List]

Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2.  .  Currently have smoke 
acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).

Anybody, improve or upgrade these?

Looking for ideas.  Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Bow roller question for Landfall 38

[David via CnC-List]

My understanding is that bow rollers are not designed for continuous shock and 
side loading )exasperated be leverage) if in tough anchoring situation .  If a 
calm night (things can go wrong quickly however) perhaps leave in roller.

Me?  Enough variables in anchoring not to remove this one.  I take it out of 
the roller to the cleat.   Designed for shock and side loading.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Sam Tunanidas via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 5:25 PM
To: Frederick G Street
Cc: Sam Tunanidas; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow roller question for Landfall 38

Thanks Frederick! I thought that it would be okay but have learned never to 
assume especially on the water! Do you use anything to keep the line from 
jumping the roller or has that not been a problem? Thank you, Sam

On Jan 21, 2019 4:42 PM, "Frederick G Street" 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:
Sam — I typically anchor with the line over the roller.  Same sort of setup as 
you have, but a larger Fortress; and we anchor in sand up in the Apostle 
Islands.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 21, 2019, at 3:32 PM, Sam Tunanidas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have a Landfall 38 with a double bow roller. I am in the northern Chesapeake 
Bay. I only use 10' of chain and the rest is 8 plait anchor line. The bottom 
around here is mostly mud and I get incredible holding power from my Fortress 
23. My question is is it okay to just run the line over the bow roller then 
cleat it off or should I run the line through one of the port/starboard bow 
openings you run your dock lines through? Thanks in advance to all responders.

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Re: Stus-List Lost halyard

[David via CnC-List]

Use a bicycle chain to run the messenger line over the sheaves.  Drop messenger 
line outside the mast first to mark when the messenger chain should show up at 
exit hole.  Use bent coat hanger (one of my favorite tools) to grab it.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Sam Tunanidas via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 4:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Tunanidas
Subject: Stus-List Lost halyard

My mainsail halyard got away from me on my LF38 and diappeared into the mast so 
I pulled it all the way out. Boat is currently on the hard. I'm sure I'm not 
the first to make this mistake. Has anyone had luck just dropping a weighted 
messenger line down from the top of the mast with the rig up or am I going to 
have to drop the rig? All responses appreciated.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump...now outlet location

[David via CnC-List]

So it dawned on me one day...my primary pump exited midships on the starboard 
side under the gunwale.  Right where the launch lands.  Potentially giving one 
of my club-mates a snoot-full of bilge water.  Not good.

So moved primary to port side and routed the high water emergency pump outlet 
to starboard side.  Much better.

Just a  thought.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[David via CnC-List]

FYI.

All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the engine, 
presumable sized with one take off, not four.

I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by 
Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many of 
our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.

And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.

Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor 
workmanship you cant see?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and 
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly on 
the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s molded 
headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the dodger, etc). That 
weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had a feel for the 
interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am changing my opinion of 
the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some boats with the drop-down, 
I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker when not needed.

Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous owner:

- water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and 
installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
- engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not sure how 
it is engaged/disengaged
- dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys off 
the crank
- solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4 
panels and 6x 6V batteries
- solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck, although 
I didn't verify
- huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't want 
anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow eye would 
make sense.

Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
- poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig unit 
covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
- possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner, with 
exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive so he 
decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the dodger 
mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that difficult to 
upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with panels of white 
and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded liners.

The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in the 
past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum) becomes 
suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship quality. The 
fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired was another red 
flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt several, and the injection 
pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will cause this type of failure: bad 
fuel, and someone messing with them. My van has an '86 engine with the original 
pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak this year, but has otherwise been 
trouble free.

It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner is a 
very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a boat I can 
sail, and feel safe and confident in.

Thanks


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat for 
someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in recent 
upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like to see, and 
there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment, with dual 
alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can say that it is 
still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated to sell, so if 
you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.

Thanks!

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will report 
back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after viewing a 
Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27. Needless to say, I 
preferred the C, and it just made me more curious about Callisto. If the work 
done appears to be well executed and not a hack job. Will report back...

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more for a 
boat with recent upgrades, esp 

Re: Stus-List C 34 Cockpit

[David via CnC-List]

+++ on that.

I call it my "Throne".


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 8, 2019 4:44 PM
To: Chris Graham via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 Cockpit

Rob,

If you’re responsible for the helmsman’s hump on the 1st generation 37’ you're 
my hero.  Love the shape on that…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Jan 8, 2019, at 3:41 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

All the 34's used the same deck mold, so any change would be a very big deal . 
. .

The windows can be changed quite easily - it's a removable insert in the mold.

As long as it's a 34, and not a 34R or 34 +, the decks were all the same.

I suppose you could change the helmsman's hump, but that was my pet project, so 
anyone changing it would be shot  . .

Cheers,
Rob Ball
C 34 # 308


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[David via CnC-List]

++1

My 1981 40-2 twin cockpit drains at the rear end of the cockpit are not 
crossed.  Over the years In various offshore weather we have been "pooped" and 
have also had plenty of solid water to prove their efficacy.  Their capacity 
was never an issue.

In my opinion a bigger issue is the lack of  gasketing and positive locks on 
the lazzarette, cockpit lockers, weather boards and anchor lockers when in 
conditions that would even begin to  test a cockpit drains capacity.

For 98% of what we are doing here, hoses crossed or not crossed, you should be 
OK...unless you have an aversion to the occasional damp cockpit floor.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 4, 2019 7:12 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Cockpit scupper drains - stories version


In a few storms offshore we have had solid green water across the whole boat. 
The cockpit filling up was not a big deal*. We were heeled over enough that a 
lot of it sloshed back out and the rest went down the drain. The cockpit 
doesn’t seem to hold that much anyway in any kind of sea.

* if the cockpit seat lockers had come open it may have been a very big deal. 
We had double locks on them :)

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 2:07 AM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version



Hi Don,



I have a 1974 C 35-II with the same drain plan.  I’ve sailed in >34kts in 
Puget Sound (I didn’t look after that) and some puffs were around 50 - reported 
by other cruising boats, returning from the same raft-up.  I should have had 
the third reef in, but had my hands full by then.  Depending on the wave 
conditions, I only buried the rail every 3-5 waves.  We don’t have a dodger, so 
I like the “protection” of the leeward aft cockpit seat, and on the big puffs 
got sprayed, and the really big one, likely over 50, slightly hosed.  I was 
very impressed with the combings and deck design, as I watched 3-6 inches of 
foaming water flowing down the deck towards me.  C got it right, the combing 
curves, and the water was sloshed right off the boat!  I’m pretty sure you 
would need much bigger offshore waves to get any real water in the cockpit.



No I take that back!  Years ago, we were crossing the sound, close behind a big 
container ship.  I headed up to take a picture, and Kathleen calmly said “I 
think I will go straight into this one.”  Before I could say anything, the bow 
dropped about 8’ into the hole, I stepped up onto the coach-house, put my elbow 
over the boom, and picked up my feet as the wave poured over the boat into the 
cockpit.  It didn’t take long for about  16” of water to disappear, and as she 
jumped up on the aft seats to keep her feet dry, she said “Well I don’t think I 
will do that again!”  We had the companion-way hatch closed, but forward hatch, 
and the scoop vents in the head were under water and leaked.  Even years later, 
Kathleen is very good about checking that the forward hatch is dogged down. . . 
every time we go out.



Great boats!  Happy New Year, Lee


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Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[David via CnC-List]

Confession Time...

While I have the diary for individual disbursement, the call, it seems, was not 
recorded.

Ugh.   Sorry.

Highlights;

  *   becalmed 12 hours, encountered 3 storms, never over 40 knots.
  *   Every day sent out three or four VHF calls noting that he did not need 
help and if within earshot, could the receiver provide weather and perhaps, if 
seen on radar, a position.  One receiver actually patched a call out to his 
wife.  Who was not home, but the answering machine was glad to hear from him.
  *   No rig modifications at all
  *   Manual self steering with tiller (diagram available).
  *   Returned with half of standard fuel tank full and 25 of 50 gals. of water.
  *   Was very miserly with battery use.
  *   Used sextant to navigate offshore, with Loran coastal (with the exception 
of the VHF  above).
  *   Storage was plentiful as it was only himself.
  *   Got 5 hours of sleep a day in 45 minute increments.   Felt great when he 
got there.
  *   Broke a lower which he repaired.
  *   Boat was shipped back
  *   Sold boat and subsequently purchased a Niagra 35 in which he great 
circled the Atlantic over two years with two other crew.
  *   Would only change one thing.  He headed east too soon and encountered 
cold and threat of icebergs.  Should have headed south a few hundred miles more.
  *   No furling.  3 reef main, jib, genoa, self steering sail, storm jib and 
trysail was the inventory

Anyone on call please add to the memory bank.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: Steve Thomas 
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2019 9:35 AM
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

Hey David,
   I sure would appreciate a copy of Denis's diary. I also 
appreciate the effort in putting the call together. Although I was not able to 
participate I will be listening to the recording.

Best regards,

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

P.S.   Happy New Year!

 David via CnC-List  wrote:
Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[David via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List CALL REMINDER

[David via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.





David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Smart Watch apps & connectivity

[David via CnC-List]

I believe Siren software does that.  Out of Newport, RI

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2018 6:08:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Smart Watch apps & connectivity

You mean you don’t know when the power is out?  Thats good i guess

On Thu, Dec 27, 2018 at 1:22 PM David Miles via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Great questions. As an additional thought, is there a way we can monitor our 
boat's power at the marina? We have had some issues with the main breaker being 
kicked off, and therefore heater is off.
There is wifi at the dock, so we were wondering if there is an app that would 
notify us if the power went out. Any ideas?

All the best for the New Year Everyone.


On December 27, 2018 05:55:54 "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi All

Smart watches have become increasingly popular and tend to slave themselves to 
a smart phone and also have wifi.  I have always thought that it would be nice 
to have a great sailing app running on a smart phone stashed below with the 
watch as a repeater.  Large digits showing GPS speed, Heading Bearing, distance 
to waypoint, etc…  Also be nice to have a nice GPS app when hiking in the 
woods, etc .. that acts like a marine GPS or chartplotter showing tracks, 
distance travelled and the like.  What I have been able to find so far is 
trying to be more like Google Maps or a car style GPS than like either of 
these.  A final very nice option would be the ability to use the wifi 
capability of the boat’s instruments to set up the watch as a repeater for 
speed over water, wind speed, direction, depth etc ….

Persistence has Raymarine i50/60 SDW instruments as well as a Raymarine A65 
chartplotter all networked together.  Watch is Samsung Galaxy watch (42mm), 
phone is Samsung S7 (Android).  Also interested in Apple watch apps since there 
are likely more of them

Thanks and looking forward to an interesting discussion

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
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Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Denis' Excellant Translantic Adventure

[David via CnC-List]

Will do. Thanks.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2018 2:28:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Denis' Excellant Translantic Adventure

For anyone who is interested I've uploaded the event details to Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/events/508789329609785/?ti=as

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, Dec 22, 2018, 10:10 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List Denis' Excellant Translantic Adventure

[David via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Winter cover for 37/40

[David via CnC-List]

Noah,

I asked the same question Wednesday...crickets.  Maybe he is  on vacation.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Languid Refiner via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2018 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Languid Refiner
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover for 37/40

Is it still available? Where are you?

Thanks,

Noah

On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 2:49 PM Brian Fry via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a cover, complete frame and clamps. Cover is usable, a few minor tears. 
If you can pick it up you can have it for a donation to Stu.
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Re: Stus-List Winter cover for 37/40

[David via CnC-List]

Brian...where are you?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Brian Fry via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Winter cover for 37/40

I have a cover, complete frame and clamps. Cover is usable, a few minor tears. 
If you can pick it up you can have it for a donation to Stu.

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Re: Stus-List Speaker

[David via CnC-List]

Len,

Rob did indeed speak at our 2012 and 2013 NE Rendezvouz.He and ess wife 
were a delight as well as a fountain of information. As to setting a call up 
with him, can do, but lets us get past our pending  "Transatlantic Denis"  call 
first.

FYI.  "Transatlantic Denis"call scheduled on 12/31 @ 1:00pm EST.  Details to 
follow shortly. It will be recorded.

>From my Android

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Len Mitchell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2018 5:26:50 PM
To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell
Subject: Stus-List Speaker

Someone was talking about a speaker last week. Rob Ball would be my first 
choice for something like that. I hope at some point Rob could make a 
rendezvous and I could shake his hand and buy him a beverage! We love love love 
our 37+. His contribution to sailing should be applauded.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Speaker...

[David via CnC-List]

He has no need for donation. But I am sure he would like it if we donated to Stu

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Conklin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 9, 2018 10:31:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaker...

You can also donate on FaceBook live if you feel so inclined and  if its set up 
 right Josh ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 9, 2018 5:59:06 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaker...

Instead of a "call", he could live stream it on Facebook.  Give me a date and 
time and I can make an event and share the event to the group.  If people want 
to watch and interact in live time then they can.  If people can't make it then 
they can at least watch it afterwards. And everyone can re-watch whenever they 
like.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Dec 7, 2018, 9:13 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
All,

I was recently introduced to the gentlemen who sailed across the Atlantic on 
his C 27 Mk 5 in 1992.

He has graciously accepted my offer to have him speak  of his experience to our 
group via conference call.

Is there interest?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Speaker...

[David via CnC-List]

Josh,

Get that.  What I was going to do to keep this manageable is 1) record the call 
and make it available to all thereafter, 2) ask folks to submit questions prior 
and 3) incorporate any other suggestions that folks may have.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 7, 2018 9:52 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaker...

I'd be more interested in a transcript or recording so that I can review on my 
own time.  I have an odd work schedule.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Dec 7, 2018, 9:13 AM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
All,

I was recently introduced to the gentlemen who sailed across the Atlantic on 
his C 27 Mk 5 in 1992.

He has graciously accepted my offer to have him speak  of his experience to our 
group via conference call.

Is there interest?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Stus-List Speaker...

[David via CnC-List]

All,

I was recently introduced to the gentlemen who sailed across the Atlantic on 
his C 27 Mk 5 in 1992.

He has graciously accepted my offer to have him speak  of his experience to our 
group via conference call.

Is there interest?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[David via CnC-List]

Richard...you are numerically right.  But I would not rebuild a waterlogged 
boat.   Those water issues, like in a semi-flooded and thereafter "fixed" car, 
seem to forever migrate and show up years later.  As has happened, most likely, 
in the instant case.

Apparently it could not have happened to a nicer guy...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]


If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?
Richard
s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low!
Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ?
I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B
.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[David via CnC-List]

I too am adding a countertop to my decidedly not Cat/Hunt/Ben galley top.  Too 
much dark teak down below.  i think the original owner purchased every 
available teak option.  Go for it.

1981 40-2

>From my Android

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 3:25:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

Some of the early 90s C actually came from the factory with Corian (?) sinks 
and counter tops, including my 1995 36 XL/kcb.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Friday, November 30, 2018, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Adam,

At the risk of being too honest and taking your request for any feedback at 
face value... please, please do not do such a horrible thing as to add corian 
countertops to a C

If you are serious about going that route then may I suggest a Beneteau, Hunter 
or Catalina as a viable candidate. Then I will offer no objection at all.

Best regards, Russ
ex Sweet 35 mk-1


At 03:03 PM 11/30/2018, you wrote:


I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops for more 
modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am not so much 
concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.
We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even question 
the need for the fiddles.

I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral.

Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated.

Adam Hayden
C 36
state of bliss.
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Re: Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator

[David via CnC-List]

Separate instrument in which it shows a view of 45 degree (in lieu of 360 
degrees) either side of top  dead center so your reference upwind is expanded 
and more precise.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Ralph via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator

What the heck is a “Close Hauled Indicator?”

I peeled away the stickers off the fuse panel and the original panel 
inscription has a fuse for a “Close Hauled Indicator.”

Cheers,
  Jeremy
  1978 C #41
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration insulation upgrade?

[David via CnC-List]

I very carefully drilled holes in all the walls and then very carefully sprayed 
foam inside the holes in measured amounts so as to not over expand and cause 
stress to the refrigerator walls which can break with the expanding foam 
pressures.  Best  could do.  No data as to improvements but I imagine it made a 
difference

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Allan Hester via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 11:54:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Allan Hester
Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration insulation upgrade?


Hi,

As one of my many winter projects, I am considering upgrading the insulation 
for the refrigeration unit on my 1989 C 35 Mk3.

The unit currently has a Nova Cool which works well and produces ice. My goal 
is to improve the insulation and hopefully reduce the energy required
to keep the fridge cold.

Does anyone know what type of insulation [if any] is behind the fiberglass 
walls?

Is there any insulation inside the lid?

Ideas on how to upgrade the insulation or perhaps C did a good job at the 
factory and there is no need to touch it?

Thanks in advance,

Al H.

1989 C 35 Mk 3
Pacific Ranger
Vancouver, BC.


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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[David via CnC-List]

Danny.  Take your gypsy off and give it to me next Sunday.I will see if my 
50' of new and unused chain will fit.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain advice


Hi All,

I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  I 
was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is by 
no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just under 
$800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the shackle 
will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by waiting for the 
spring sale.

My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a week 
out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have visions 
of venturing further.

my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has a 
lower working load limit.

Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 G4 
for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of chain.  
My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  the mantus 
website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 20,000 lbs.  I 
know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most practical solution for 
now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I believe I would upgrade the 
windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...

I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
simpson lawence units!

--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[David via CnC-List]

Crud has built up in tank over the years and will block the pickup.  Thats why 
it starts again.   Crud drop off pickup.

Whatever ya gotta do get rid  of the fuel and clean the tank of the crud.

Everything else is a half measure (I have not heard good things about fuel 
polishing) and doing it  right will give you peace of mind.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

Yup...found sound crude means of doing so.   Any more refined ways without 
buying an expensive instrument specifically for that?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Miles via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Miles
Subject: Stus-List Fan Belts...

Be sure the pulleys are perfectly aligned.
Misalignment can cause belts to wear rapidly.

Be safe,
David Miles
C 30MK2 Impulse



On November 5, 2018 10:43:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

I don’t know what you mean by

 unless 
you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that, then no.



Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine at 
http://vbeltsupply.com/









Regards,



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
To: John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...

Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to day 
usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?

Thanks in advance.

>From my Android





From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)



Get the jib out. Sail.

All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>














On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year)  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.



Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.



Thanks in advance.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Fan belts....

[David via CnC-List]

Duralast.  Probably crap.  Trying to find the saw tooth version of same 
dimensions.  Which brand are you using?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Len Mitchell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell
Subject: Stus-List Fan belts

David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as you but 
changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last at least 
twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...

Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to day 
usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?

Thanks in advance.

>From my Android


From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)

Get the jib out. Sail.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>







On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650
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Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List Stu at the Vous

[David via CnC-List]

I would think we could twist Rob's arm as well.Great hearing his 
perspective on C & C

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 2, 2018 10:40:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stu at the Vous

Well, if we get Stu out, we’d better get Gladys out, too…

—  Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 2, 2018, at 9:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Any way we can make it a group project to get Stu out for the next one?


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255
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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[David via CnC-List]

I stopped worrying about topping off years go. Never a problem.  And a  20 gal 
tank does not generate much moisture.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2018 4:16:07 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

Hi Marek- Thanks for reminding me that I read a report that tested the urban 
myth of water accumulation in an empty tank directly and found no water 
accumulation in the tank over the winter.  The calculations appear to agree.  I 
will still have to top up the tank at some point, but I agree there is no need 
to do it now and the storing "old fuel” in the tank argument is very 
persuasive.  My first day on the boat in spring is a long motor down the CT 
River, so I will plan to top up before that trip.  Thanks- Dave


On Oct 25, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Consider not adding the fuel.

This is an urban myth that the condensation would add a lot of water to the 
fuel. The water in the fuel tank comes usually from the leaking fill hose 
cover. If you don’t believe it, do some calculations (;-).

Depending how much you motor, if you keep topping up the tank, you may end up 
with a lot of old fuel in the tank.

Many marinas don’t allow the topping up, because if you do it now, the fuel 
will expand in the spring and it would leak through the vent.

of course, your boat, your choice.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 10:17
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually do by 
pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry can.  I 
have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full 5 gal 
container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the transom and 
into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device that works or 
come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[David via CnC-List]

My problem with funnels (.have it) jigger hoses (have it) is the mess 
thereafter.  Lots of paper towels but the hose always has residual that will 
end up where i dont want it.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Gerald Fennessey 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 3:21:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

 Scepter Military Fuel  20l plastic, two on ebay for sale now  $100.00.

I have been using them for 10 years, never leak and no-spill if you use their 
fill spout.

Very  pricey but the last can you will have to buy.


-Original Message-
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Sent: Thu, Oct 25, 2018 10:17 am
Subject: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually do by 
pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry can.  I 
have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full 5 gal 
container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the transom and 
into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device that works or 
come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:H0SP2hlpxOCsYx398PPA]

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Re: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure

[David via CnC-List]

Yup  same with 3QM30.   Always starts.  Half throttle and quickly modulate upon 
starting.  Cold or otherwise with no glow plug.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Ralph via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2018 6:16:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Re: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure

Hi Chris,

I don't know about your specific engine but for my old Yanmar 2QM20 with no 
glow plug I put the throttle to greater than 1/2, turn it over and she starts.  
I'll then throttle down to idle put her in forward and give it a nice warm up 
under load.

To stop it, as advised in the users manual, I throttle down until it stalls 
then turn off the key to stop the buzzing.  I do have a decompression handle 
but I never use it and I'm able to start in below freezing temperatures; 
however, I'll often run my diesel heater in the cabin a bit first to warm up 
the boat before starting in the really cold.

Before I knew to put the throttle up so high to start it I burnt out the old 
starter trying to start on a cold day.  After that, I replaced with a new 
starter and beefed up the wires form the battery to the starter.  Now she 
starts no problem.

Cheers,
  Jeremy









On Monday, October 22, 2018, 5:51 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Chris,
On my girlfriend's boat, she has the same engine. When starting we set the 
throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 then start cranking. Sometimes I'll engage the 
compression release to get the engine spinning a little faster (about 10 secs) 
then release it.
Another thing we do is flush the engine with fresh water before putting the 
boat to bed.
Hope this helps.

 Original message 
From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10/22/18 09:38 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham mailto:sabre28...@yahoo.com>>
Subject: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure

I have a quick question about the specifics of starting a Yanmar SB8 single 
cylinder engine. The previous owner also disconnected the kill switch and 
turned off the engine with the key so i want to reattach the cable this spring.

Is there a specific amount of throttle to set it at prior to turning it over? I 
think I remember by old Volvo-Penta had to be positioned at 3/4 open and then 
immediately dropped down to idle once the engine turned over.

anything special I need to know? No real information out there and the old 
service manuals are pretty much impossible to locate at this point.

Thanks for your suggestions
Chris

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Re: Stus-List Pressure Testing water lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Ya...gonna take it easy.  Anybody try it?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2018 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pressure Testing water lines...

Wear your foulies…   

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 23, 2018, at 1:46 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Was going to hook up a garden sprayer to each individual water line to 
determine if and where there are any leaks.

May need a gauge to  really measure.  Any suggestions?

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650


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Stus-List Pressure Testing water lines...

[David via CnC-List]

Was going to hook up a garden sprayer to each individual water line to 
determine if and where there are any leaks.

May need a gauge to  really measure.  Any suggestions?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Looking for a cruising chute

[David via CnC-List]

L-36.com is. Compiler of many sites.  Good start.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2018 9:41:38 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Looking for a cruising chute

Hello all,

I am looking for a asymmetrical cruising spinnaker for a 1994 C 37/40+ 
(centerboard version).  Per the specs, the I = 52', the J=16', and measuring 
from a full hoist with the spinnaker halyard to the attachment at the foot 
yields 53'8", and to the top of the lifelines is 51'10".

Does anyone have such a sail they'd like to part with?

If not, which of the used sail consignment shops do you recommend?

Thanks!!!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Air conditioner placement

[David via CnC-List]

At the risk of being a smarta$$.  Do you really need A/C up there at all?  We 
never feel the need for it here in the Cape Cod and Islands area.   Save you 
some storage, money and time getting rid of it.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 3:40:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ken Heaton; Chuck Saur
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air conditioner placement

Our A/C is installed under the companionway stairs, above the engine, as you 
suggested.

As our Aft Cabin mirror is plastic we just cut a hole through the mirror itself 
for the A/C vent. It looks fine.

Ken H.

On Saturday, 20 October 2018, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Ok all you 37+ guys...the mirror discussion sparked a thought:  I have air 
> conditioner installation located in aft cabin hanging locker, and would like 
> to move it to have the storage.  The space under the companionway is open.  
> I'm thinking I could install AC unit in the space below companionway steps.  
> This would allow a forward-facing air duct, and if the mirror were shortened 
> in the aft cabin, an aft-facing duct just over the engine compartment.
> In Michigan's UP, this might just be enough to keep cool on BOTH of those 
> warm days. Anyone with some creative experience and/or ideas?
>
> Chuck Saur
> (517)-490-5926
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Re: Stus-List Af Cabin Mirror on a 37+

[David via CnC-List]

My mirror was replaced with a reflective acrylic.  Looks like glass

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2018 4:08:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Af Cabin Mirror on a 37+

Don’t know about your specific mirror.  On my boat, there is a framed mirror 
screwed into the bulkhead wall.  I removed it from the wall by taking out the 
screws and took the framed mirror to a local glass shop.  They removed the old 
mirror from the frame and replaced it.  I then screwed the frame back in with 
the new mirror installed.  Easy peezy.

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2018 12:58 PM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Af Cabin Mirror on a 37+

Listers (Specifically the 37+ Listers),

In my aft cabin, there’s a framed mirror on the wall above the engine 
compartment, which I’d like to redo. Anyone have any clue as to how to get it 
out?

There are screws in each corner, but it also appears that the mirror is inside 
the frame as well.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Af Cabin Mirror on a 37+

[David via CnC-List]

On behalf of Rob and myself and your mirrored aft cabin...so may jokes...so 
little time.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List Whale foot pump for icebox

[David via CnC-List]

IMHO...there is enough stuff that can get into the bilge without adding one 
more, potentially gross, variable which can cause hard to get rid of odors.

I configured my foot pump so it can pump fresh water, salt water, or icebox 
water into the sink.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Whale foot pump for icebox

Speaking of Whale pumps, a lot of C came equipped with a Whale foot pump 
attached to the drain hose for the icebox.  The pump drains the icebox water to 
the galley sink instead of the bilge.  On my 34, we disconnected the pump and 
just ran the hose to the bilge.  A prior owner did the same thing on my 42.  
I’ve wondered why C decided to make the icebox drain more complicated.  Was 
it to keep certain things (like milk, for example) out of the bilge, or was 
there some other reason?



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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[David via CnC-List]

Fred, Danny and Dennis.  Thanks for the pics and suggestions.  Install pretty 
straightforward?  I am not removing fiddles so an accurate template is a must.  
Any gremlins to look out for?  This is a once and done kinda thing.  Dont want 
to muck it up.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 8:52 AM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

For my boat (1979 Landfall 38), the Wilsonart color “Putty” (1503) was a 
perfect match.  Your mileage may vary…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly straightforward. 
 Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm

I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche' both 
to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant surface.  
Here's a link:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M

Both bulkheads were teak.

I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched the 
existing countertops in Touche' closely.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd...I wonder how it  is holding up?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 6:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

David,

I know someone who installed a vinyl wrap that gives the surface a look like 
marble or granite. Looked pretty damn good.

Check this out:

RoyalWallSkins Marble Contact Paper Self Adhesive - 24" x 78.7" Roll - Faux 
Marble Paper Granite Look Wallpaper for Counter top Kitchen Cabinet Furniture 
(White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8TRYJN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0o7XBbCBX4YRF

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com<http://www.StarshipSailing.com>
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Oct 17, 2018, at 5:59 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley. Has 
anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up the 
galley?

>From my Android

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Stus-List Galley countertop

[David via CnC-List]

Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley. Has 
anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up the 
galley?

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Lithium Batteries LiFe vs Lipo

[David via CnC-List]

Plus 1

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 10:01:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Lithium Batteries LiFe vs Lipo

I would ditch the 27s and replace with two golf carts. I am not aware of anyone 
making true deep cycle 27s that don’t cost a lot more than GC2s.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 9:49 AM
To: Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Lithium Batteries LiFe vs Lipo


After reading all of this, for my use, the less expensive lead acid batteries 
seems the right choice and then use the savings for a good solar install (this 
is really an after the fact justification because I already bought the solar 
system!).  We are weekenders with a week out 2 or 3 times per season.  I was 
wondering what I would do for batteries next time around and this discussion 
has really helped.  My boat has room for 3-group 27 house batteries under the 
V-Berth and a starting battery under the cockpit.  Currently the house 
batteries are "dual purpose"  (whatever that means) 85ah each.  I'll go to some 
good deep cycle batteries next.  I think I can get some more amp hours and keep 
them topped up with a 400watt solar array.  My goal is to be able to run the 
refrigerator and autopilot I'm about to install.  I'll keep watching this 
thread but, if anyone has some advice on a good lead acid deep cycle choice, 
I'd love to hear it!
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels and LED light bulbs.

[David via CnC-List]

Had a 80 amp Balmar for 12 years.  Buy their smart charger.  Flawless 
performance.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 5:46:52 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar panels and LED light bulbs.

No help for you on the solar panels but the ONLY LED replacement bulbs or 
fixtures to buy are marinebeam.com.

I've bought a couple of LED products from other suppliers.  I have replaced 
them with marinebeam products.

I have both entire fixtures and also replacement bulbs from them.  1st quality 
products.

Do it right the first time, go with marinebeam.com.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Oct 13, 2018 at 12:42 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi All

Last year after putting in a new Beta engine with a larger alternator (110 amp) 
we added an additional battery, a battery monitor, and to use all that power, a 
fridge.  (Of interest, and not the point of this email, is we went through two 
alternators on the boat last summer both on warranty.  Doesn't bode well.  We 
did not put in a smart regulator as it would void the warranty.  Guess that was 
a good thing.  Two mechanics have gone through the boat and all wiring is good. 
 They claim manufacturing default in both alternators.   Hmmm.)

The fridge is a fantastic addition especially when you are up north with no 
stores to buy ice, or much food for that matter.   BUT, as you all know it 
takes a lot of power.  Which gets me to the questions.  Easy one first.

1.  We have added some new LED reading light fixtures but still have a few more 
old incandescent lights where we would like to keep the fixtures.  You can get 
replacement LED bulbs that range in price from a couple of dollars to $15.   I 
read that cheaper ones don't deal with variations in voltage very well and you 
should spend more money.  Does anyone have experience and recommendations.

2. The real solution, we think, is solar panels.  But how much do they really 
help and where to put them on a 34 foot sailboat.  It seems all locations come 
with a compromise.   We are considering:

A: On top of the dodger, but the boom will always be an issue.  Especially 
since we don't have a bimini we use the boom for supporting our awning that we 
put up on hot sunny days.  Yes we occasionally get them up on the BC coast and 
blocking the sun is mandatory.

B: Get a bimini and mount them on it.  But this gets us back to the sunshine 
issue.  Lots of days it isn't that warm and you want the sun on you.  A Bimini 
with solar panels is not that easy to fold out of the way.  Also it isn't cheap.

C: Hang them off the life lines or rails at the back of the boat with a support 
that allows you to set them flat when at anchor.  But we occasionally carry 
bikes back there and we couldn't have both at the same time.  Also looks a 
little clunky.

D:  Leave them as portable and set them out when at anchor.  But then it is a 
pain and you don't do it unless you are sitting for a while and you have all 
the wire to deal with, etc.  And they aren't helping much under sail.

So does anyone have a recommendation as to what they have done and how it 
works.  Also how many amp hours did you get on a sunny day?  What size of 
panels did you use.

I know, that like everything on a boat it is always a compromise, we are just 
trying to figure out which one to make.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[David via CnC-List]

Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next town gave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are too big to be easily 
handled with a small crew.  IMO you are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 
after having bought a 30.

You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)

Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.

The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.

My $.02

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham 
mailto:sabre28...@yahoo.com>> wrote:

Thanks Bruce!

I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down.

I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :)

You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice.

Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :)

Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had a 1977 C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.

Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.

Just my $.02 worth,

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from Samsung tablet
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Stus-List Refinishing table and sole...

[David via CnC-List]

So I am refinishing the table and have removed the aluminum corner pieces to 
re-paint.   As the original paint is in fairly good shape with only bits of 
bare aluminum, still need primer?  Preferred top coat paint?

And I know this subject has been beaten to death.  Sorry, but a varnish 
recommendation for cabin sole?




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Virus-free. 
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Re: Stus-List Slow use of coolant.

[David via CnC-List]

Bruce.  Fond the highest point with a hose and.pour.coolant in there.  You will 
be surprised how much it will take.  On my 3QM it is the heater house feed to 
heater.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:21:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slow use of coolant.

Is it slowing down at all?  If so, you may just not have "burped" the system 
sufficiently when you replaced the coolant.
Some cars were notorious for that, which is some cases caused problems down the 
road.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Sunday, October 7, 2018, 3:28:42 PM CDT, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello all,

1 have a 1994 C 37/40+ with a Yanmar 3JH2E engine.  When I changed the 
coolant last year, it seemed like about 12 oz less coolant went back in.  Since 
then. I've noticed the overflow tank seems to be dropping a little, and I've 
topped it off 3 or 4 times.  In total, I've probably added 16 to 32   ounces of 
coolant.  The exhaust exits the boat downward, so I don't get a good view of 
the existing exhaust,  but I'm not seeing evidence of steam as I would expect 
if I had a head gasket leak.  The oil looks fine.  There's no evidence of oil 
in the coolant.  There's no evidence of coolant leaking externally ( ie orange 
in the engine bilge).  We get the boat off the dock 4 to 6 times a month, each 
time motoring about an hour per trip (30 minutes out, and 30 minutes back in 
after sailing.  I've only owned the boat about 18 months, so there could have 
been a preexisting condition.

Any ideas, and is there a way to figure out what is going on?  Should I be 
worried?

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore


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Re: Stus-List 30 MKII for sale in CT at a very reasonable price

[David via CnC-List]

Have him contact me.  I might have one for him...

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Robert Gallagher 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 10:34:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKII for sale in CT at a very reasonable price

Sadly the guy who bought it from me has decided it’s not for him.  No issues 
with the boat, I think he now wants a trawler.
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKII for sale in CT at a very reasonable price.

[David via CnC-List]

Back  on the market?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Robert Gallagher 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: Stus-List 30 MKII for sale in CT at a very reasonable price.

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/boa/d/1988-cc-sailboat-30-mk11/6706360942.html
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Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

[David via CnC-List]

Don,

This is impressive. Thank you!

Please change Corsair to a MA as a state.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of T power via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2018 5:03:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

Hi,

Thanks for doing the spreadsheet, really cool. If it is not too late could you 
please add the following;

1973 C 30 MK1
Invictus
Hull #150
FYC Fredericton NB
owned for two years, I have 3 years of sailing experience.

Cheers.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Sancton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2018 4:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Sancton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

Please add

1984. 35-3. #82.  Morning Light
DYC.   Dartmouth, NS
Tom Sancton
Owned 6 years, sailed 42
sancton@gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 8:06 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to Jack's 
> request, in which I have added emails addresses.
>
> Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Don Kern
> Fireball - 12708
> 1974 C 35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI 02809
>
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[David via CnC-List]

Tom...find a hydraulic shop for trucks.  Navtec guys are 4x the cost and in my 
case, incompetent.  Construction guys don't do well with incompetent.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 11:05:29 AM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to 
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number is: 
206-935-4678.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Listers,

My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000 lbs 
for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to happen 
overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old Navtec IA-10 
unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of the adjuster and 
the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.

Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that could 
handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider replacing it 
with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block contraption?

The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce 
settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.

Thanks,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
--
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524

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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[David via CnC-List]

http://www.tpicomposites.com/English/the-TPI-family-honors-the-memory-of-our-founder/default.aspx

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2018 5:21:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

Actually, those Freedoms are darn nice boats.
I think Gary Hoyt was quite an innovator, and I believe Pearson? May have made 
the boats.
We have made the self tacking CamberSpars since Bierig Patented them.  They are 
very popular in rivers and long reservoirs.


Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 9:21 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

Don’t tell her about the self tacking Freedom boats!

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bush 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 9:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush; j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

Jack; I have owned my current C, a 37 CB for 4 years, however, it is my 4th 
C, ( a 25 II, 29 II, 33II and this 37)  I purchased the 25 in 
1987...don't know where that puts me on the scale.  As an aside, I did promise 
my wife that I wasn't going to move up to a 40 or more, because we sail on a 
riverlots of tacking!

Richard
s/v Bushmark 4, 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.5

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[David via CnC-List]

Fred...shoot me an email @ davidrisc...@msn.com.  Thanks!


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 5:10 PM
To: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

I THINK my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the list is 
interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them 
somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people also have 
done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.

All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII - Monoloy
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Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

[David via CnC-List]

Ah.  There is the rub.  On the mooring.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Alan Liles via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 12:48:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

I have an Evadry dehumidifier that has run more or less constantly for three 
years and it’s still going. It takes about 1/2 liter per week out of the air. I 
need to run small heaters in the winter to prevent the dehumidifier from 
freezing. One of my better purchases

Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC.


On Sep 30, 2018, at 5:56 PM, Dave. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

We use 3 Dri-Z-Aires in the winter in SLY and for us that does the trick. SLY 
lives in the water at her slip but is inactive all winter here in the 
Northwest. No issue with mold in the summer for us.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 30, 2018, at 6:58 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this light 
patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a solution to 
prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to clean same.




>From my Android

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Mold prevention

[David via CnC-List]

Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this light 
patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a solution to 
prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to clean same.




>From my Android

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray