I also prefer a teflon or silicone based grease. I avoid lithium based grease
since they seem to dry out and get hard after a while.
Don Wagner
Der Baron
C 41 CB
From: Chris Graham via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Re:
I’ll second St Michaels. It has better accommodations for tourists, more shops,
more restaurants, the best museum, a nice hotel, better choice of marinas, etc
Don Wagner
Der Baron
C 41CB
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2018 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
I’ve been a proud C owner for 45 yrs. I bought my 1st C, a 30 Mk 1, hull #
100 at the 1973 Annapolis Boat show.We named her Red Baron and raced/cruised
her for 13 years with my family. She was a terrific racer/cruiser!!
As the family grew up and kids wanted to bring friends, we decided to step
On my C 41, it was not necessary to drop the rudder.
The yard removed the cutless bearing 1st with their special bearing press tool.
Once the bearing was removed, there was enough slop to slide the 1 1/8 inch
shaft past the rudder for easy removal.
I replaced both the shaft and the bearing.
On our C 41, Der Baron we set it up with about 1 degree of rake. The major
problem was dealing with the keel bolt at the mast step. We had to cut back
a small amount of the mast at the base to allow for the base to move
forward. We also adjusted the shims at the deck to put some slight
It’s for the boom vang, or preventer with a roller furler boom. You are holding
it upside down. You slide it on to the boom, and attach a block and tackle to
the shackle. The other end of the block and tackle is fastened to the toe rail
or the mast base, as needed.
I had one for my C 30 in
I use the rubber cane (or chair) tips as well, but before installing them, I
insert a fender washer of the same size.
The fender washer protects the rudder from the sharp edges on the feet of
the ladder. The rubber tips seem to last longer with the fender washer
protection.
You might try that
The acceleration of the zinc corrosion can be due to a number of things. The
galvanic isolator can help if the marina has a grounding issue, and will fix
that. Your problem is more likely due to dissimilar metals on your boat
immersed in salt water.
Many years ago I had a C 30 Mk I, and after
I don’t know about a lot of our masts, but mine on C 41 CB, 1986, hull # 93
was built by Cinkel Spars in NOL. I met with Jim? Cinkel at a boat show or two,
and did get some parts and drawings from him a long time ago. They also made
some the steering systems. They were out of the business at
If you have your own car, you may want to try Bayfields B in Harwood MD
It’s about a 30 min drive to Annapolis, with a beautiful old Victorian Home on
the West River.
It’s managed by a family of sailors with lots of racing experience. Lots of
folks visit there during
boat show time or Naval
We had an abandoned derelict boat in our area for a long time. Neighbors,
Community Associations, DNR police, etc were unable or unwilling to get rid of
it. No one could decide on whose responsibility it was, or what laws applied.
There was quite a bit of discontent. Eventually some one decided
Brian
I can’t tell from the photo, the direction of the boom, eg, is the gooseneck on
the left or the right of the photo?
Maybe the exit block is mounted in the wrong direction? I know it is a
stupid question, but maybe some how it got turned around.
It looks like some serious chafing!
I have experienced keel bolt weeping on my C 41 early on. After some detailed
efforts, I determined that is was the result of improperly drilled bolt holes
in the hull/keel stub. When I removed the nut, and the washer from the leaking
bolt, It was obvious. C had drilled a bolt hole in the
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the original PVC extrusion
that was installed in the C masts/booms?
They fit into the slot, and allowed one to use a bolt rope in the foot of the
sail, or a bolt rope to be used in the luff of the main sail, and in the foot
of the mainsail.
This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
The original mast boot for many of the C Models made of of a PVC material by
a vacuum forming process
The company had form for the various mast cross sections and would make them on
demand.
I last bought one about 7 yrs ago, and it fits tight, no leaks and was
available in black or white
I also used the Blue Seas three bank DVM. It’s been great, but quite a bit more
expensive than the Sears DVM that that you found.
For the panel: the original material used by C was 1/8 inch black bakelite. I
had a local sign maker fabricate a custom panel for me.
He used his CNC engraving
When I needed a panel for my C 41 I went to a local sign maker. They matched
the material and engraved the lettering I needed.
They were familiar with making that style panel, and had a CNC machine that did
it all. I don’t recall the cost but it didn’t seem to be excessive.
Don Wagner
”Der
Just run the line up,thru the cringle, then down around the boom an tie a
bowline to fasten the end around the boom. This gives you the benefit of a 2
part reef line. The bowline end should be located underneath the cringle. It
will stay there by itself. I've assumed you have a loose footed
Josh
To answer your question about “What are the shaft zincs protecting?” Assuming
you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the rudder post, the keel
bolts (especially if you have the C Smile), as well as any other of the usual
underwater
I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.
If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
then: Shut engine off.
Close inlet seacock.
Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
Restart engine while pouring antifreeze
, it is a two person job.one down
below doing the pouring and one in the cockpit on the engine.
Is it a two person task when you do it? If one person, how do you manage that?
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-09-28 6:19 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List wrote:
I’ve used David’s
I found that the Harken Catalog contains lots of suggestions on how to rig
your boat.
They have a lot of mainsheet ideas, traveller configurations, spinnaker
ideas, etc.
Have you checked out their catalog? Or call their tech guys. They have been
a big help to me!!
Just my $ .02.
Don Wagner
Got itDon & Jean Wagner
From: David via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2015 1:36 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2015 Northeast @ Cedar Island
Rob,
Hey...I gets my pharms via mail. Smart fella eh?
Corsair draft at 8' would eliminate most of those offerings.
I’ve found that many Truck Repair centers have the capability to repair
hydraulic lines and hydraulic cylinders.
I believe I once used a place in Waldorf MD to do some work for me.
It’s close to Solomon’s Island MD. You might check it out !
Don Wagner
CC 41 CB
Der Baron
From: Alan Bergen via
Rick
I doubt that it was a Bermuda 40. Since it was a yawl(or maybe ketch rigged) ,
a B40 would likely have only 55 ‘ or less mast height.
My CC 41 with a triple spreader tall rig is ~ 62 feet above the water. I keep
thinking that I can make it through most of the ICW bridges.
Perhaps that
.
On Sat, 8/1/15, Don Wagner via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling rigging
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Wagner don.wag...@verizon.net
Date: Saturday, August 1, 2015, 6:40 AM
The vibrations and the singing noises that you have
observed are
classical
The vibrations and the singing noises that you have observed are classical
examples of vortex shedding. They were originally described by a German fluid
dynamics engineer, Theodore von Karmann.
If you are interested, do a search on “vortex shedding”. Wikipeda has a good
description of the
I’ve also noted some rusty areas in the bilges of my previous CC 30 and my
current CC 41 CB. The problem was that CC used steel backing plates and some
steel washers. I removed the original stuff and replaced it with the proper
alloy stainless washers, and in some cases I had custom SS plates
I can second Gary’s comment. Author was Doug Hanks. He was an Oxford MD sailor
and into insurance/real estate. He passed away a few years ago, and his family
decided to discontinue publication..
Used copies are available on Amazon. I believe he wrote another book that was
about the Annapolis /
I replaced a similar unit like your old unit with the Moeller reed switch style
on my CC 41 ( 1986 model), and am very happy with. I am particularly pleased
with the lack of moving parts, immersed in the fuel, and the sealed reed switch
design. No need to calibrate, if the tank is reasonably
Joel
You might want to talk to “Mamock’s . They are on Legion Ave in Annapolis. I’ve
used them several times and found them easy to work with.
Don Wagner’'
CC 41 CB
Der Baron
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List
Joel
Check the wiring diagram supplied in your CC Manual. On my 1986 CC 41 CB,
the Binnacle light is separately fused with an in-line fuse. The fuse is in
series with the binnacle on/off switch located outside in the cockpit on the
engine instrument panel. The fuse is behind the the panel
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mk1 rudder design
My boat is a big version of the old CC 30. I have noticed no issues in reverse
with my rudder. I rarely use my tiller, so I can’t really tell
Ron
I purchased a CC 30 MK in 1972 ( 1973 model, hull # 100) . Raced her until
1986 when I bought a CC 41 CB
We won a lot of races on the Chesapeake with her, She is essentially a CCA
design and we sailed with a 170% genoa
She is a very stiff boat with the 170 and even stiffer with the 155%
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