You may want to try cooling the shaft as much as possible while
heating the coupling.
If the coupling is cast iron or similar the coefficient of expansion
is different from 304 SS.
https://amesweb.info/Materials/Linear-Thermal-Expansion-Coefficient-Metals.aspx
While it isn't much heating
Try Pacific Fasteners in Toronto.
https://www.pacfast.com/
Mike
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From:
To:
Sent: 5/22/2020 9:14 PM
Subject: Stus-List Source for long stainless/brass screws
I’m having difficulty finding a supplier of the 6” screws - preferably
I have been flying both sym and asym spinnakers on Windburn for the last few
years.
A small tack point has been added on the bow forward of everything for the
asym. I found
that using an oversized pole works better, maybe a C 30-1 thing. Pulling the
pole back
a bit and getting some more chute
The National Yacht Club, Toronto, has closed food services and
cancelled Sailor's Night, training courses and everything else.
What are clubs doing that normally would be launching next month?
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
___
Thanks everyone for
Let me guess, easiest take down ever.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From: "Della Barba, Joe"
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Sent: 12/19/2019 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
During an informal race up the Chester with a C 40 it was just my wife on
rom some earlier comments by owners, I don’t think the raising of the boom
>did much for performance, but it did relieve a lot of headaches.
And I agree with Michael, the boat does quite well in 15 knots and above.
Gary
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Michael Brown via
CnC-List
Sent:
There is not much consistency between PHRF districts on rating adjustments for
items like sail measurements or prop type. That makes comparing the class PHRF
( SP - speed potential ) and individual boat PHRF ( ASP - adjusted speed
potential )
difficult without knowing all the details.
As an
Also the 30-1 is far from a one design.
The earlier models tended to be heavier, possibly due to things
like the water tanks being made out of fiberglass versus the
later models having plastic tanks. The rudder design changed
and the boom was raised 1'. I have pictures of 30-1s side by
side
The clubs in PHRF-LO submit race results at the end of the season.
All the data gets entered and we get race analysis back. Some filtering
goes on to drop nights with wind issues, boats that raced less than
three times, races with less than three boats.
Classes that consistently perform (
The high water levels from 2017 and this year has lead to a lot of repair and
replacement
costs at the club I am at, The National Yacht Club on Lake Ontario. Some of the
infrastructure
was getting on in age and would have been replaced soon.
The high water both years flooded the basin side
I think the NOCO chargers are switcher based rather than large transformer and
large capacitor.
The are much lighter in weight than some brands.
I have two of the automotive line installed on Windburn in a dry location. NOCO
also makes
IP68 marine chargers. They work fine and do seem to
Comments below
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From: Randy Stafford
To: cnc-list
Sent: 6/27/2019 10:16 AM
Subject: Stus-List Survey About Racing
Hello Listers,
I’d like to conduct a little survey about racing, tapping into the broad
experience, geography, and boat
Some notes on the C 30 rating history at PHRF Lake Ontario.
1985 FS:168 NFS:168
Record created in the current database
1996 FS:162 NFS:162
Handicap adjustment by Central Council based on performance history
2000 FS:162 NFS:180
+18 Disconnect of NFS-SP from FS-SP rating
2006 FS:168
Not much in the PHRF-LO Handicapper's manual on the topic. It is covered in
meeting notes from 2008 and 2009.
WPL penalty – There will no longer be a penalty for oversized Whisker Pole
lengths.
2009 Spring Meeting.
I race handicapped by PHRF Lake Ontario which has no rating adjustment for
whisker pole length. I picked
up a Forespar Line Control which goes out to 22', a fair bit for a 30' boat.
In light air, 4 knots TWS, setting the sails perpendicular to the wind works as
well as anything else I have
I would be interested in some opinions on the use of stands. I am on the Launch
& Haulout
team at the club I am at, chair for a few years. We have required cradles for
sailboats and
have accepted stands for power boats by exception only.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2019
I would hope anything made since the last time this happened is OK.
https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/library/tech/99/08/biztech/articles/23gps.html
There was a related problem, confusion of whether the 1024 weeks were numbered
as
0 - 1023 or 1 - 1024. A long standing tech joke,
After trying various things including nothing I have been happy with thick
rubber pads.
I purchase a couple of feet from a roll and trimmed it.
This may be the product, I think there was a choice of thicknesses at the store:
I see on the weekend Ottawa had a couple of notable events.
It was the coldest capital city in the world, beat out Helsinki, Moscow
and "Ulaanbaatar" ( Mongolia ). It broke a 100 year record for
the coldest temperature during a snow storm.
I was watching Windy and various sites, quite the
ts). Am I missing something?
Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2018 5:55 PM
The topic of outriggers came up a while back and I asked specifically about any
disclaimers
for a reaching strut. I agree that it is a safety and rigg
quot;
I was unaware of this Rule, which I just reviewed. It doesn?t make sense to me
to bar a reaching strut, but it sure looks like you are correct.
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2018 4:16 PM
I had taken it from the RRS 50.3 that a reaching strut in n
I had taken it from the RRS 50.3 that a reaching strut in not allowed in a race.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2018 13:53:44 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford"
Yes, the inboard end attaches to a fitting (usually a ring) on the mast. There
should be a fitting on
That was a poor wording on my part. We have released under
load a few times due to overrides or whatever else happens on
long races when we get tired. Once in the dark I managed to
pull the jib sheet and spin sheet through the turning block.
For headsail changes we put a temporary line on a
I was surprised at the loads, and have no idea why there is a difference
to the various load calculators and postings.
Windburn has ARCO 40s as the primary winches. They are similar to the new
offerings with a 6.3:1 second gear ratio and a 3.25" drum diameter.
I am using the Tylaska #8 J-Locks with a core dependent eye splice.
The sheets gets loaded over 4000 pounds but I have not had an issue.
The lock will open under load and we have done sail changes in
high winds without having to tack or de-power.
They may have more appeal for racing where a
I have wondered if yearly maintenance was normal.
In 2017 Windburn covered over 2,000 nm, almost all racing.
We keep the heavy #1 up to at least 18 knots, sometimes with gusts to 22+.
Overall there is a lot of use of the winches. When under heavy load the
winches are easier to use with yearly
A calcium based greases are among the more water resistant offerings.
At low speed and medium pressure calcium sulphonate is a good choice.
I contacted Shell and one of their product specialists called me back. After
a discussion of the properties of marine winches she recommended looking
at
I did a race in 25 - 32 knots TWS, gusts to 47.
Highest I saw this year was for about 90 seconds or so in a squall,
readings to 52 knots steady. It increased, guessing over 55,
but I couldn't read the instruments anymore. During the peak
the boat was shuddering very noticeably.
Toughest part
The volume in the fuel tank is fairly small, most of our boats it would be less
than 0.1 cubic meter.
At around 90 degrees Fahrenheit that would be about 1/10 of an ounce of water
in the air in an
empty tank.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm
If the
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2018 10:44:23 -0600
From: Randy Stafford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming
Thank you all for your replies and suggestions, some of which were off-list.
Responding to points in the order received:
1. "Is it safe to sate that the main mast damage is from the
Loos PT-2 and 1/4" wire?
Just a starting point put uppers at 36 and lowers at 32 on the gauge.
If you get out on a windy day with normal sail plan point up to where you are
comfortable
and check how much tension is left in the lee shrouds. They should still be
snug but will flex
with some
I was mainly answering Mike but adding to your question also. I am not clear on
what is being
measured, assumed something to ship's ground.
I have not understood the need to ground an otherwise electrically isolated
bronze through hull
or seacock though I think at one point it was
You could try reading current with your multimeter instead of voltage. Small
stray voltages
likely exist when measuring between lead and SS even in fresh water but I doubt
they will
sustain much current.
Just as an example of magnitude very roughly if there was a current of 1 amp
At 4 - 5 knots into wind and waves a consumption of 1.8 CND gallons per hour is
possible.
Very roughly a 4 stroke gas engine running efficiently will yield about 15 HP
at 1 gallon CND per hour.
Subtract losses for the alternator and water pumps and 1.8 might give you 20 -
24 HP at the prop.
I have this in from an American customer who is having similar problems.
> Comcast is in the middle of a major outage in many parts of the country,
> especially the Northeast.
> If you have clients with problems, best to see if Comcast is involved.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From:
Last Wednesday a storm blew through Ontario also. I was not sure if RC would
start a race but a
few boats showed up so the set a 1.8 mile leg once around. I knew the wind was
up, sustained over
20 kts so went out with a 90% blade and full main. After a couple of gusts we
reefed the main.
It
Listed as a C 30 but it is a 29.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2018 21:38:13 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe"
https://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/1979-cc-30/6589132460.html
1979 C 30 - $1500 (Cape Charles, VA) hide this posting unhide
? craigslist - Map data
Long short. If the head has the controller in it, such as a ST4000, ST4000+,
ST6000 ...
when it starts acting up place a cloth over it and soak it in ice water for a
minute or so.
If the unit starts working normally you likely have a component overheating.
I have fixed two by noticing where
If you are looking to replace your batteries these may be of interest.
http://fireflyenergy.com/
I looked at them a few years ago and would have gone that way except I found
a deal on Johnson Controls AGM group 31s, $160 CND instead of $400.
The technology is not a gimmick, the research was
If this is the switch you have:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5511e/e-Series_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch
then
Off - should disconnect both battery ( banks ) ie no starter to engine and no
house to boat
On - should connect starter to engine, house to boat but keep the separate
Combine -
In Canada you could check Total Battery. I see a Trojan deep cycle Group 31
listed
for $282.80
http://webstore.totalbattery.com/product-p/31xhs.htm
The claimed 130 amp hours is good as is the reserve capacity at 225 minutes.
Many Group 31s are around 100 and 190.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C
The standing rigging weighs under 100 lbs, would guess the mast is 200 lbs. I
normally
disconnect the forestay, coil it and store it on board for the winter to
protect the Harken
Carbo Foil. I can pick up and carry the mast myself, no problem placing it on a
rack up
to shoulder height.
To
True, though note that very little play at the radial wheel keyway is required.
If your rudder swings 80 degrees and that takes 3 turns lock to lock ( no idea,
just an example ),
then 1 degree on the rudder is 13.5 degrees on the wheel. If your rudder post
is 2.5" diameter then
1 degree is
If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than a
specific species.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak
Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak is
very good for marine use.
Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we
Good white oak is considered to be relatively resistant to water penetration,
used for canoes and old sailing ships.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/aboutamericanwhiteoakandredoak/
Working it, bending it and staining it ( or getting epoxy into it ) has usually
been the top complaints.
Michael
I used epoxy coated white oak. The particular pieces were hard enough that
metal working blades
and a file provided the best method for shaping them.
My feeling is that the original bilge pump configuration did not get the last
2" of water out of the
mast step area so the plywood was wet 7x24
I had thought that polycarbonate was "more likely to scratch"
compared to acrylic ( plexiglass ), and that polycarbonate yellowed
over time due to UV exposure.
http://www.hydrosight.com/acrylic-vs-polycarbonate-a-quantitative-and-qualitative-comparison/
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date:
Winds have been up this year. I went for the last sail of the season then
un-stepped the mast yesterday.
At 5 AM Sunday the Toronto Island Airport which is across the Western Gap from
the National Yacht Club
recorded a 47 mph gust, 32 mph winds. The forecast was for the wind to ease in
the
Good enough for me, will give it a try in the spring.
Windburn is pretty dry, not much gets in from rain or spray.
A very little gets in on the port side midship with the rail buried
for a while, wipes up with a cloth. I shouldn't be bothered but
so close to being completely dry ...
Michael
t;
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Not the way I use it. I just use it to stop water intrusion between the
toe rail and deck. It may work on the bolts but I've never tried it.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 4:47 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Is this to stop water entry from following the through bolts ( machine screws )
into the cabin?
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2017 15:36:56 -0500
From: "Dennis C."
Yep. Just place the tip of the bottle in the rail/deck interface, squeeze
very gently
Do whichever is easier:
1) switch the batteries ( house and starting )
2) switch the battery cables, ie house positive and ground to the starting,
starting positive and ground to house
If the selection of starting battery ( which is now the house battery ) starts
the engine easily then the
If you have the mechanical style fuel pump you may be able to use it for
troubleshooting.
The pump has a mechanical primer in the form of a wire bail that goes around
outside of
the body. Part way down here is a picture of the pump:
https://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=410
There
When I replaced the ignition switch, a simple pull on push off, I changed it
to a three position switch.
I don't think this is exactly it but close:
M-476-BX
https://www.carltonbates.com/static/catalog/products/images/PDF/M-476-BX.pdf
On the first detent out I use #1 for the ignition.. The
Hi Randy,
a common wiring configuration has a positive wire coming from the starter stud
to the ignition switch in. The ignition switch out feeds the ignition coil,
starter button
and gauges. If you pull the ignition switch on it should move the fuel gauge,
ignition
off might return the gauge
On my '77 30 MK1 the rudder post goes through a fiberglass tube that is a close
fit,
would not allow much sideways movement. Wear between the shaft and tiller is
more likely.
If the bolts are easy to remove and are not retaining the shaft then take them
out and see
how easily the tiller comes
Must have had great quality control to replicate the same failure ;-)
I have been on a few 30-1, no two the same so far but all great boats.
I was racing last Tuesday, had the rarely used blade up and a full main at 20 -
25 kts.
A wind line took us to 36 kts, eased the main and jib off to sit
The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part of
the tank. The top of the
forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round access
ports and a screwed
down access panel on both tanks.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017
Some are dual purpose switch / circuit breakers:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7351/C-Series_White_Toggle_Circuit_Breaker_-_Single_Pole_10_Amp
That one is rated at 10,000 cycles as a switch. The MRSP is $40 USD, more
expensive than a switch and fuse.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date:
If there has been a problem with AC leakage from other boats then completely
disconnecting
all grounds might help. No idea, just guessing. The battery charger would need
to be connected
directly to the battery(s), which looks like it is from the pictures.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
Date:
> Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
If you are planning to carry a 155% genoa a racing code zero ( defined here
as a flat spinnaker with the MidGirth < 75% of the Foot ) is an expensive sail
that will add benefit over a fairly small AWA. A cruising code zero or reaching
asymmetrical
Hi Bill,
I would lean towards SS rivets as suggested by Dennis and others. You will
need to get the
diameter of the hole but also the combined thickness of the fitting and mast.
Fogh has a good
assortment of the rivets. You can get the compound riveter from Princess Auto.
On the LO300 with
If it is the correct grade and has the minimum rating requirements there is no
reason
to replace it. Synthetic oil could also be described as better filtered /
refined / processed
regular oil and its only drawback in most applications is that it is expensive.
In an application where the oil
Has lots of help, thousands at least.
http://www.gamonyachting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/GAMBloodsuckers.pdf
Windburn did double handed flying sails but I ended up awake for the race. At
times
sections of the deck, sails or lifesling cover was obscured. We used buckets to
wash down
and
We have a number of UPSes in our customer base we support. I have recycled
at least 60 AGM batteries this year and sometimes play with them to see if they
are good or can be recovered.
Even fairly flat batteries may recover. If they can be charged back up, and I
use
a constant current power
I picked up a Johnson Controls group 31 AGM a year ago, a friend picked up 3
for his house bank.
The 200 minutes reserve capacity is a plus, as is the bulk charge rate of about
40 amps in my setup.
A downside is they weigh 71 lbs.
I help do the same to a pin stop spinnaker car. Worked.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole
>> works out through it.
>>
>> Jim
+1 for checking the clearance between the aft of the mast and the mast collar.
If the forestay is loose the top of the mast may be slightly forward.
Going by mast rake is difficult unless the boat is floating to spec. You can
take an
initial reading with a digital level by comparing something
The light-medium will be a 155%. I considered going larger but was unable to
work out the trade offs.
With PHRF Lake Ontario there is not much of a penalty, they switched to 1
sec/mile increments on
adjustments a couple of years ago. I would see -1 FS and -2 NFS.
Even with -1 sec/mile I was
Even with a sail larger than 105 the sheeting angle may make a difference.
There isn't much online about racing sail design for an older C 30 so
some of it is guesswork and some experimenting.
I wanted a sail that would cover a wide wind range, possible now with the
strength of materials like
I will be prepping my mast next week and could take measurements. I doubt you
would
want to mount a normal block on the front of the mast if you are carrying an
overlapping
headsail. It will rub and maybe catch on every tack. The 30-1 factory spinnaker
uphaul
fitting was a feedthrough with less
The bearings are replaceable. They are friction fit into plastic but with a
gentle pressure and
heating the plastic they will slide out. I have done a couple for myself and
some other people.
Rebuild kits are available still which may contain the bearings ( 4 total ),
new vane and cups.
The
When I did the 7/8" shaft and Algonquin stuffing box on Windburn this is what I
used.
18 DUR-UX0313-01 PACKING ULTRA-X 5/16" SOLD BY$0.46 $8.28
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/packing-ultra-x--inch-or-pound--42950.html
I tool less than 9", but ordered 18" to have
I installed separate tracks. A longer one back to handle sails in the 140 - 155
range
and a short track between the shrouds and cabin for < 100.
The height of the clew controls how far back the genoa car is positioned. I
doubt the
110 will sheet inside of the shrouds. If the clew is higher than
> requiring more halyard tension to touch the starboard rail than the port rail
When I am centering the mast side to side I use the main halyard, a stiff
bungee cord
and a tape measure. On either side to start with I hook the bungee to the
halyard shackle
and through the toe rail, then tighten
I would guess the foot of your mast has some heel in it to allow the mast head
to position
fore and aft during sailing. If so installing the mast step at some angle would
control where
the contact point is and thereby how the load is spread out over the girders (
stringers ).
The configuration
On Windburn the external rails are held down using SS hanger bolts.
They are convenient to lay a bead of butyl around while installing.
So far ( 17 years ) no concern with strength.
The inside rail has a long screw that goes through the cabin top
and into the external rail.
Michael Brown
That should be Caustic Soda, not Baking Soda.
If a battery in otherwise good shape has self discharged to the point of being
flat has
a bit of Epsom Salt or such added it might help recover the battery. No magic
going
on. With a flat battery it is hard to get a current flow started and the
I installed the Whaler Gulper 320 in the area under the forward dining bench
seat
and used a remote pickup directly under the mast step. I wired in a Whale BE9006
electronic bilge switch with delay and have a three way ON - OFF - AUTO switch.
The combination works well. When there was a
I have been using Cetol for a while, same gallon can for 10 years.
It is basically an oil based teak coloured stain, completely different
from a varnish. It works well on Lake Ontario and when the exuberance
during racing requires a touch up I also like the ease of maintenance.
What is the
Klacko Spars is still making some C parts out of cast aluminum. No idea about
mast steps.
www.klackospars.com
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From: T power via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step
Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there
> I also screw the locking collar tight to ensure a tight connection.
I watched a boat leave the dock with the power still connected. I am impressed
at how well that locking collar worked. It was the metal one into the metal
version
of the inlet. Once they got some slack it even undid and they
Some background:
http://4xspower.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/bci-ohmicreadings.pdf
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From: Josh Muckley
I'd like to know more about the technology, how it works, and how accurate
it is.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons,
Ah. I know they are junk but keep them around for various workbench
projects. I've even used them to successfully start my spare marine diesel
sitting in the garage.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 7, 2017 5:09 PM, "Michael Brown via CnC-List" <cnc-
If you have the original battery Reserve Capacity specs it is an acceptable
quick test
to see if the battery is good but maybe worn or at end of life.
If possible test the battery(s) individually, Charge fully, bring battery to
around 80F and
time how long it will sustain a 25 amp load before
I did a similar process with the PO. It lasted about 10 years then started
leaking a small
amount. The caulking had hardened and was not sealing well against the chain
plate.
The caulking came away from the SS easily, was a job scraping it away from the
deck.
I tried a marine silicon based
I drain mine in the fall and use it in the snow blower - gas from an Atomic 4.
There are various opinions on how much condensation is even possible at lower
temperatures and small amounts of air pumping back and forth.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/fuel_tankt_condensation
Chlorine does react with SS. I would be careful using it on a boat in high
concentrations.
Also standard bleach is not a cleaner unless it has some additives. I think the
chlorine
tablets remain stable for a while but liquid bleach like Clorox breaks down
into salt and
water even while sealed.
I did not have much success keeping hardwood wedges in place and tight on
Windburn.
Spartite is an option but after some discussions with a fellow racer that does
rigging and
a sailmaker I tested to see how much mast bend I get under normal maximum
backstay
tension. The sailmaker looked and
Welcome aboard. Nice boat ;-)
I have tried a few things for the mast wedges. Last year I purchased a small
roll of heavy rubber floor mat
from Princess Auto ( was on a bulk roll, cut a minimum 1' off ). I cut it into
two pads since I have a hold down
clamp on both sides. They are a snug fit
The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not
expand enough
to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break
plastic before
the rated temperature.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
From: RANDY
Thanks Rick,
I started with something similar to this for the housing:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/power-pro--4-led-courtesy-light-surface-mount-with-chrome-case-red-led--17030297?recordNum=106
The one I have is all white plastic, similar but I think a different
manufacturer.
I removed the original
On Windburn we do end-for-end due to carrying an oversized pole.
The J is 13.5' and the the pole is 14.4'. We normally do not have guys.
If there is difficulty keeping the chute stable and helping out foredeck
by steering the chute try centering the main for a moment just as they
are about to
I had the Signet wind instrument set on Windburn. To get inter-connectivity I
switched
to Raymarine ST-50 wind. My feeling is the Signet responded faster, was more
accurate
and would work to a lower wind speed. I called Signet support once, they helped
me
get a part number for a component and
Interesting topic considering it does reduce down to connecting three wires
more or less. The executive overview is that hopefully the inverter, circuit
breaker
panel and GFCI will come with good instructions on how they need to be wired.
At least some of the GFCI are recommended for use
I think you have it, that is how a GFCI works.
In the case of an inverter that is floating use of a ground is a bit of an
oxymoron.
The principle is that every electron that comes out of one connection has to go
back to the other connection. If the GFCI is directly connected to the two
The Gori did poorly, though note it was a three blade folding.
Also Gori spec'd the wrong size of prop according to a note
at the end of the article.
It is a good article but I noted that most of the props stopped
from 6 kts in 8 - 10 seconds, the majority of them did 6.4 - 6.65 kts
ahead. For me
Hopefully the inverter will come with very clear instructions on how to
handle ground and neutral.
For normal power, ie shore power, this is the US code:
"The National Electrical Code ( NEC ) requires the AC source to have a Neutral
to ground bond
and that there be only one such bond in the
You could try a mild solution with Borax. If a bit of the solution
is left behind the alkaline environment is reported to be unfavorable
to molds.
Here is a discussion of Borax, Wet and Forget and the chemicals involved.
http://www.psifly.com/cr2/index.php?topic=24991.0
I use Borax in the fall
1 - 100 of 224 matches
Mail list logo