Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship
Learned this at a talk at the Annapolis boat show. I have occasionally and seen others use this docking method – my slip has pilings and very short finger pier. A line at least 2 boat lengths and a long finger pier. Attached to the mid-ship cleat, the line is led outside the lifelines to the crew/wife standing on deck who forms a long U shaped loop. The remainder of the line is then fed outside the lifelines to the cockpit area and brought in under the lifelines to a winch/cleat. As the boat approaches the finger pier the crew with a leg of the U in each hand and the arms spread wide, DROPS the line on the DOCK so that the U loop surround the outer-most finger pier cleat. The helmperson adjusts the line and rudder to stop the boat at the appropriate position. The crew can drop the line/loop standing anywhere – from the bow to the cockpit wherever is the closest approach to the finger pier cleat. The engine is kept in slow forward. Now with the boat held along side the finger pier and stopped in the proper position, the crew/helmperson STEPS off the boat and attaches all the lines. The engine is then turned off. Depending on stanchion positions, a toe rail snatch block might be needed before being fed to winch. Again depending on deck equipment, another configuration is to place a toe rail block just aft the mid-ship cleat (loop between midship cleat and block) and then back to cockpit. This mid-ship loop method can also be used to “parallel park” on the leeward side of a long dock (sometimes winch cranking is required). For single-handing the helmperson must puzzle out how and where to drop/throw the loop over the cleat. Practice throwing the loop – arms parallel at start but spread wide at release. Not easy with lifelines. Rod Randow C 33-1 On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 11:59 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > OK, after 20 years of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'. > Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both > outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier. > I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any > pilings. Whoopee. > > However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different > scenario. First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just > short of full boat length. Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings > between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37. Third, the prevailing wind is > from the starboard side. > > In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues. > Docking > stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my > neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to > looking at a working boatyard. > > So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls > the boat to port is a challenge. The wind pushes the boat dramatically to > port when docking. The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port. The > wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks. > > I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success. The best > the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle > to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of > midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the > outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion. Once the line > is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and > secure a stern line. The stern still tries to swing to port midway through > this process but we manage it. > > Now for my main issue. Docking single handed. I can't see myself > approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the > steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping > back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by > myself. > > Any secret tricks I haven't explored? > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer
I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There are two bolts holding the piece. I believe the angle piece was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove on the cable end. I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible. Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement. There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to accomplish this. Rod Randow C On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi all, > > I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be > troublesome. I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the > transmission is located in the front. The red jacket 64CC series cable > comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and > attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail. The > trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the > engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will > either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative > mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp. Both > are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror > tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something > else? Any insight would be much appreciated! > > David > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
On my 1976/77 C the ST 4000 control head is installed (2001) on the port T bulkhead (similar to the engine control panel on the opposite side). It is mounted as high and aft as quarter berth access will allow. There is a round inspection port next to and aft of the control head. I do occasionally bump the buttons with my legs when adjusting lines/sheets. On this older unit the fluxgate compass is installed under the floor of the bottom most hanging locker opening. Rod C 33-1 On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 8:36 PM, Annette Reesor via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > We have purchased a wheel pilot for our 1976 C 33, but are wondering > where others have installed the control head? The T shaped cockpit doesn't > seem to have much 'free' space. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > Annette > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement
Burt, I beilieve I need to replace* a jib masthead halyard sheave on my 33-1 since one halyard raises the 135 easily by hand while the other halyard requires a hard grinding via a winch to reach full hoist. My boat is on the hard with the mast stepped. So if you are visiting your boat, I would like to see photos of the jib sheaves and if possible the dimensions of the sheaves (diameter, width, and pin diameter). Knowing the sheave size would enable me to have a replacement(s) ready if and when I drop or climb the mast. * The problem sheave is the one I've used for the furler for many years and the bronze/brass bushing is probably worn and no longer round. Rod Randow CC 33-1 _ bstratton wrote I have a '74 33 3/4tonner. I believe our rigs are very similar if not identical. I just had my mast un-stepped in order to haul the boat to my property for some winter projects. The mast is stored at my marina. If you like I can take some close up pics for you. I should be heading down to the yard this weekend. I have no experience in replacing the masthead sheaves but you might be able to get a good idea of what is involved if you decide to go that route. My main can be difficult to raise also but I chalked that up to my lack of experience and extra hands. I found that feeding it into the track is a huge help but again, extra hands would be helpful. I also learned the hard way to move my running backs out of the way. Burt 1974 33 3/4 tonner Not named yet On the hard Walpole, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
