Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
I don’t have the accumulator (yet). But it is on order. Marek From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:30 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Is your accumulator tank waterlogged? You should get at least a cup of water before the pump starts, depending on the size of your diaphragm. Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump If we are talking about the water pressure pump… My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant (almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling (about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns itself off, when the tap is closed. I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the pump). I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43 To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as well. The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow. One of the first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming). Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces. If the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You can then pull water from the tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump will continue to work. Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump. Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List wrote: Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C72ef35f6d5494e35a78c08d5e5aa6ebe%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636667442513757148=II3RnHALDTl62fKEhCiyqZJxQ7b8LlUylTyL6cIfOmg%3D=0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting thi
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Is your accumulator tank waterlogged? You should get at least a cup of water before the pump starts, depending on the size of your diaphragm. Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump If we are talking about the water pressure pump… My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant (almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling (about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns itself off, when the tap is closed. I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the pump). I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43 To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as well. The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow. One of the first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming). Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces. If the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You can then pull water from the tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump will continue to work. Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump. Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List wrote: Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C72ef35f6d5494e35a78c08d5e5aa6ebe%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636667442513757148=II3RnHALDTl62fKEhCiyqZJxQ7b8LlUylTyL6cIfOmg%3D=0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.pay
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Hello Chad, Yes that's it, manifold is black with 4 orange valves, two of which service the tanks. So just to confirm: 1) Parallel to the manifold nothing works, they need to be vertical (perpendicular) with either pointed end or round end determining open and closed? 2) The manifold in my boat is loose so unsure what is up! So how about - Pointed part in the direction of pump for open? and you reverse, as in, round end in the direction of pump to close and switch tanks? or vice versa? It would be great if you can confirm as I am pretty sure that is the issue I am having! Pretty tricky and I note that the manual is generally silent on operations of these thing. Great idea marking the ends, I shall do that btw! Cheers, Maurice Original Message From: Chad Osmond via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Chad Osmond Sent: Tue, Jul 10, 2018 7:39 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Is this the black and orange 4 port manifold? If so, each side of the knobs has either a round part or a pointed part at the end. The orientation is vertically, with the pointed part up for open, or the rounded end for closed. If they're sideways it will not work. I ended up removing mine to get a better look. The difference in the ends is subtle, so I used a marker to mark the pointed ends black. On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List, wrote: Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Is this the black and orange 4 port manifold? If so, each side of the knobs has either a round part or a pointed part at the end. The orientation is vertically, with the pointed part up for open, or the rounded end for closed. If they're sideways it will not work. I ended up removing mine to get a better look. The difference in the ends is subtle, so I used a marker to mark the pointed ends black. On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List, < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello, > > As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had > a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall > appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for > assistance hopefully. > > The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty > much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never > could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge > up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the > settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to > this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump > and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect > I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct > valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the > valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, > possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running > down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing > apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the > dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you > run both tanks together, or not? > > Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self > priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump > would be an alternate question? > > Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley > previously! > > Cheers, > > Maurice Poulin > C 30 MKII, Monoloy > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
You can get diaphragm rebuild kits for your pump. Or you might just try disassembly, clean, reassemble. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 10:49 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > If we are talking about the water pressure pump… > > > > My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In > the past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as > the pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant > (almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling > (about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns > itself off, when the tap is closed. > > > > I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing > the pump). > > > > I would appreciate any suggestions. > > > > Thanks > > > > Marek > > 1994 C270 “Legato” > > Ottawa, ON > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43 > *To:* C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump > > > > Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, > or three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as > well. The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, > seat/unseat alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and > as gunk grows in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms > so that it no longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back > flow. One of the first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing > water (dry priming). Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past > the sealing surfaces. If the pump is already primed then the more viscous > water will create enough back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You > can then pull water from the tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted > supply of water is maintained the pump will continue to work. Once the > tank goes dry there is no more water to seal the seating surfaces and > swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the pump is no longer > creating a suction to prime the pump. > > > > Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater > tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello, > > As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had > a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall > appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for > assistance hopefully. > > The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty > much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never > could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge > up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the > settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to > this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump > and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect > I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct > valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the > valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, > possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running > down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing > apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the > dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you > run both tanks together, or not? > > Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self > priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump > would be an alternate question? > > Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley > previously! > > Cheers, > > Maurice Poulin > C 30 MKII, Monoloy > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C72ef35f6d5494e35a78
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
If we are talking about the water pressure pump… My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant (almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling (about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns itself off, when the tap is closed. I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the pump). I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43 To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as well. The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow. One of the first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming). Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces. If the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You can then pull water from the tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump will continue to work. Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump. Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C72ef35f6d5494e35a78c08d5e5aa6ebe%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636667442513757148=II3RnHALDTl62fKEhCiyqZJxQ7b8LlUylTyL6cIfOmg%3D=0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Hi Maurice, Congratulations on the new boat! We are in season 6 with our 30-2 and really love the boat. Our water tank setup sounds simpler than yours, we have one valve that opens one tank and closes the other. It’s located next to the pump at the forward end of the dinette on Firewater. I believe the pumps are self priming. We have a belt driven beast of a water pump that seems to be able to pull water pretty easily. I had a similar issue to yours with the starboard tank last year. I could not find any obvious issues either, but simply removing the supply line and blowing out the line into the empty tank resolved the issue. I am guessing that there was some growth or debris at the outlet on the tank side. We find the boat races slightly better if we don’t use the forward tank, so we typically just fill the starboard unless we are going on a long cruise. Hope that helps, enjoy the boat! Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI Get Outlook for iOS On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 8:09 AM -0500, "Maurice Poulin via CnC-List" wrote: Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
I, too, had trouble with the tank manifold when I got my boat. The pointy end of the valve handle has to be in the proper orientation to select the tank. I still have to look at the almost hidden label to determine which way that is. I think the pointed end is toward the outlet of the manifold to select the tank. It's counterintuitive and I often end up on my knees with a flashlight. Al Liles SV Elendil C 37/40+ Vancouver > On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:43 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or > three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as well. > The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat > alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows > in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no > longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow. One of the > first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming). > Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces. If > the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough > back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You can then pull water from the > tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained > the pump will continue to work. Once the tank goes dry there is no more > water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be > enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump. > > Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater > tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > >> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Hello, >> >> As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a >> ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall >> appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for >> assistance hopefully. >> >> The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty >> much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could >> get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the >> lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee >> tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this >> distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and >> from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I >> may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct >> valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the >> valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, >> possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running >> down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! >> I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! >> What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run >> both tanks together, or not? >> >> Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self >> priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would >> be an alternate question? >> >> Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! >> >> Cheers, >> >> Maurice Poulin >> C 30 MKII, Monoloy >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or three diaphragms. There are often inlet and outlet check values as well. The checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat alternately as a drive motor runs. As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow. One of the first symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming). Since air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces. If the pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back pressure to seal the seating surfaces. You can then pull water from the tanks. As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump will continue to work. Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump. Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater tanks, will degrade rubber components over time. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello, > > As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had > a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall > appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for > assistance hopefully. > > The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty > much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never > could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge > up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the > settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to > this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump > and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect > I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct > valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the > valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, > possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running > down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing > apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the > dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you > run both tanks together, or not? > > Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self > priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump > would be an alternate question? > > Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley > previously! > > Cheers, > > Maurice Poulin > C 30 MKII, Monoloy > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump
Hello Maurice, I don't know your particular boat, but in order to draw water from the full tank. You need to turn off the empty tank, otherwise you will only suck air. You may have to experiment or track down the piping to figure it out. That said, is there any chance there might be a crack in a fitting letting in air? It might be higher than the tank, thus not showing a leak. Just a thought, Bruce Whitmore Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Maurice Poulin via CnC-List Date: 7/9/18 9:05 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mp...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump Hello, As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a ball. Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall appraisal! But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for assistance hopefully. The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the galley and head. As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the dock! What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not? Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be an alternate question? Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously! Cheers, Maurice Poulin C 30 MKII, Monoloy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
