http://www.na.northsails.com/tabid/1945/default.aspx?news_id=5546
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly
35 Mk 1
Glen Cove, NY
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I've also heard that sailing with just the jib is bad but I'm not sure I
buy it. When you sail with the main and jib you are not removing the
point load from the jib, but adding the distributed load from the main
as well.
By the way, what has surprised me is how well the 35-1 balances with
Edd,
I'll be willing to help out with the 2015 Rendezvous.
Notwithstanding my location, I think the CT shoreline is preferable to
Long Island, given that many will drive and we know what driving on a
summer weekend on LI can be like.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On
David,
Let me address one issue - the teak and holly cabin sole on my boat had
the identical issue as this boat you're considering, it had sat on the
ground for some time with water above the sole (fortunately below the A4
front crankshaft seal...). This spring I finally addressed it by
Late August, or even Labor Day.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY
On 10/3/2014 10:05 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Listers,
In looking at the September 2015 calendar, knowing I can't do the
weekend of the 18th, I'm left with three possible weekends:
September 12-13 (the
I just made such an arrangement similar to what Josh described. Bought a
left and right hand ascender, and put a toe loop on each. Used one
halyard to pull up a line with a knot in the middle to the top of the
mast, and tied off the lower end of each part, tightly, at the deck.
Then put one
Dave,
I put a Universal M30-B in my club launch two years ago, and it had a
mixing elbow supplied loose, I had to add a 2 long pipe between the
manifold and the elbow. If you go to page 13 of the manual in the link
below, you'll see it. Not sure if the M4-30 has the same, as the manual
on
I found the situation this spring in my pump just as Dennis described.
Inside the Whale pump the internal threads for the screws holding the
flapper in place were eaten away, making the pump junk. I replaced it
with a Whale Mk 5 plastic pump, for about the half the price as the
die-cast
quickly at that price.
Yeah, inline shrouds.
However, 61' air clearance? 126 beam? 42 LOA?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
http://www.boatquest.com/listing
Barbara,
The two are really quite different, in that the spinnaker pole is made
to withstand very high compressive loads, especially when beam or close
reaching. Under those situations, an extendable whisker pole would not
be able to take the load. The whisker pole when holding the clew of
There's a spreadsheet a few posts down at this site, sorting the data by
Class shows CC 35-3 have a range of ORR SI from 117 to 122.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/perils-edgy-design-offshore-38903-30.html
Otherwise, it takes lines plans, weight data and calculations...
Neil
Vote: List
Stu, if the costs are not covered routinely by donations, I suggest you
let us know that too.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/13/2015 5:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like
to have a Forum similar
Rob,
I bought a Rocna 15 (33 lb) for my 35-1, which weighs (reportedly)
10,500 lb, and it works great. Looking at the Rocna chart for 33'/8,700
lb, (10m, 4t) the 22lb is the recommended size. Looks to me like
you're in the right size range.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On
Kyle,
I made the switch from wire to rope on my 35-1 without changing the
sheaves. Works fine, no sign of unusual wear.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/8/2015 2:27 PM, Kyle Mello via CnC-List wrote:
Hello, I have a 72 CC 35 MK1 and I am looking fora advice on where to
I use 3/8 for main and jib.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/8/2015 3:05 PM, Kyle Mello via CnC-List wrote:
That's great news. Did you switch your main halyard to 3/8's or 7/16?
On Fri, May 8, 2015 at 2:58 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc
The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched
terminal of the glow plug button. You are supposed to to have to push
the glow plug switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the
glow plug switch also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil
pressure
On my Harken furler the line goes down through a small hole near the
center of the rope drum, I just feed it through and put a figure eight
knot in it. The knot has to be tight to fit into the space below the
drum, but that's all there is to it.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
Edd,
Sorry, I know you addressed this, but what is the workaround for the
Captcha image verification?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35 Mk 1
Glen Cove, NY
On 7/27/2015 10:55 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Listers,
Just 46 days to go to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous --- See
cnc2015.com
I used the Boat US graphics, worked great. On their website you just
enter the letters, fonts, colors, etc, and they mail you the entire name
on a plastic sheet. You peel off a protective cover, place the sheet on
the hull, press down, peel off the sheet and the letters are perfectly
placed.
Dave,
The chocks at the partners are fairly important. Most of the force from
the shrouds and stays are is pushing down on the mast, a "column" load.
The wedges or chocks at the partners keep the the mast in line
vertically, which greatly reduces it's tendency to go out of column
under the
Let me add my thanks as well. It was a really nice group of C'rs,
great to meet some of the names on the list in person. Stu made a
comment of how unusual it is that this list, compared to others, has
almost no flaming or arguing. Having met some of listers I can see why,
just great people
Mark,
You might want to consider a boom kicker if you already have a vang. It
just keeps the boom up and eliminates the topping lift. I'm really happy
with mine, though I always put the main halyard on the aft end of the
boom when the sail's down.
http://www.boomkicker.com/
Neil Gallagher
Brad,
Leeward shrouds going slack, though a bit unnerving at first, is
perfectly normal in our kind of rigs. The windward shrouds are doing
all the work.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 12/8/2015 11:41 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:
Quite a thorough blog, and
I'm not familiar with the layout of the LF38, but, FWIW, on my 35-1 I
have found (find) water outboard of the panels under my quarter
berth and also under the settee, and the source is the joint between the
hull and deck. Once I tightened up the nuts/bolts that hold the toe
rail and the
When I replaced my leaking aluminum tank I used a plastic tank, luckily
it's translucent enough that now I can just look at the tank and see the
level. I never go closer than 1" - 2" from the top when filling.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 12/14/2015 5:04 PM, Joel Aronson
Steve,
Not sure of just what .dwg you're referring to, but I was able to create
a .pdf file by downloading one of the Autocad drawings on the Edison
website: "Assembly 6" Sheave", file name "Mcd-620-6". If you tell me
which file you need, I should be able to send you a .pdf file of it.
,
Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL
- Original Message -
*From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher <mailto:njgallag...@optonline
Had it for two years, great radio. Especially the built-in GPS/AIS
receiver, very nice feature.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/7/2016 6:55 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote:
Currently I just day-sail with minimal electronics (VHF, GPS, and
cellphone - all hand-held) but am
David,
I'm at the other end of Long Island Sound, and I too noticed an
unusually rapid deterioration of my shaft zinc. Usually it's only 1/2
gone over the whole season, but this year I could see it going much
faster over the summer and it was totally gone, as is not there, when I
was hauled
I use the same, depth sounder shows water depth to compare to charts.
If I recall correctly, in my Raymarine setup I adjusted for the depth
of the transducer below the waterline, and since I have clear hoses on
my cockpit drains I was able to get a decent estimate of transducer's depth.
Edd,
Weatherly came with two installed, one 4" in the deck forward, just aft
of the mooring cleat, and one 3" in the head. I've been really happy
with them, they do seem to keep the boat ventilated over the winter. I
had to replace both last season, the old Nico were stainless steel, new
Dennis,
Are those turning blocks on the mast something you added, or do you
think the forward two, at least, were original? Weatherly has none of
those, just deck-mounted stand-up turning blocks - what you have keeps
a large part of the load on the mast, much nicer.
Neil Gallagher
Erik,
Cutless bearings are now sold by Johnson Durmax, among others, and the
names are shown on the .pdf in the link.
http://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/CutlessBearingMS.pdf
BACK, BAIT and BALE are bearings with 1" shaft diameter, with 1-1/4",
1-3/8" and 1-1/2" outside diameters,
Josh,
Your reply brings up a question I have for someone familiar with DSC.
I've been looking for a way to monitor my boat's position when I leave
it unattended on the hook. If I have a handheld with DSC programmed
with the same MMSI as the fixed VHF on the boat, can I query, with the
Andrew,
I get a bit of squeaking between the top of that bulkhead and the
underside of the deck when in any kind of sea. A friend who grew up
sailing on a 35-1 told me they used to put beeswax in that joint to
quiet it down. Not sure if you could anything in there, but might we be
worth a
http://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/CutlessBearingMS.pdf
Above link shows commonly available sizes.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 2/11/2016 5:23 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is
If all you want to do is get rid of the topping lift, you might consider
just adding a Boomkicker, which only keeps the boom from falling down.
Then you could keep your manual vang, would cost quite a bit less. I'm
happy with that arrangement, though I always put my main halyard on the
end
I've run the fuel line in the lazarette to where I can lift the seat and
reach it, and installed a manual ball valve, which I shut every time I
leave the boat or for the night when on the hook. Once I managed to
have it closed when I started the engine and just as I dropped the
mooring lines
Cleaning out the garage, have the original 35-1 wheel to dispose of.
28" dia, 1" bore w/.25" key, good condition. Anyone want it for free,
I'll send it, otherwise it goes to the scrapyard.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
___
Email
On Feb 17, 2016 11:31 AM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Cleaning out the garage, have the original 35-1 wheel to dispose
of. 28" dia, 1" bore w/.25" key, good condition. Anyone want it
Years ago lignum vitae used to be the standard material for ships'
bearings. It's a very dense (heavier than water), oily wood so it
provides its own lubrication. It hasn't been used on ships in the last
50+ yrs. They stopped using lignum vitae because as ships got bigger
and faster, the
Brian,
I'd suggest cutting off the excess length, since it's not supported and
could bend or distort.
The fact that the bearing is loose in the strut housing is not ideal,
it'd be better if it was at least a light drive fit, the set screws
should not be depended on to hold the bearing in
My 35-1 has the same two bands, one at each end of the keel. When I
first got the boat the insurance survey found voids at the top end of
them on one side where the raised part fairs back to the normall hull
thickness, which had to be from the original layup as there's not much
load at the
Neil,
When you finish the installation of the refrigeration I be interested in
hearing how it went, where you located the compressor, etc. I'm
considering the same for Weatherly.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/31/2016 8:47 AM, schiller via CnC-List wrote:
Just ordered a
I got one for my 35-1 with a 145%, and am really happy with it. Best
thing for cruising, especially light air (ie, Long Island Sound), not to
mention an essential item for non-spinnaker racing. I didn't go for the
mast-mount, and it can be a bear to get the pole set. Once you've
clipped in
Allen,
When my aluminum tank was shot, I replaced it with a plastic tank:
http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/less-than-20-gals/
Something to consider, it's worked great for me.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/21/2016 10:32 AM,
at
the mast. I can see how a topping lift would be helpful since during
the jibes nothing else is available to support the sail. I can also
see how a topping lift would help keep a full shape instead of
weighing down the clew.
Thanks,
Josh
On May 19, 2016 1:09 PM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List&q
The 35-1 has the same lights, when I got Weatherly one of the screws was
already broken off and apparently had been that way for years. I drilled
and tapped a new hole adjacent to the old one, and then drilled through
the flange and gasket of the new Perko fixture. A bit of 4200 on under
the
Allen,
When I first bought my boat, I found a leak in my aluminum tank.
Someone, not sure if this was original or replacement, had used a
galvanized steel strap under the tank, which over the years led to
galvanic corrosion right through the bottom of the tank. Now I have a
plastic tank.
Tom,
One thing you might try is to is to see what type of smoke you're
getting. Burning lubricating oil tends to be blue/white, which
indicates your might have excess oil splashed up from the crankcase to
the cylinder walls. Some splash is normal, that's the way the rings are
lubricated,
On my 35-1 the manual fresh water pump for the sink also takes suction,
by means of a 3-way valve, from the icebox drain, so it can pump the
water right into the sink. I don't know if that was original or
installed by some PO, but it works pretty well.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen
Had the same thing happen to me last week, slightly under-inflated
dinghy filled up when the bow dug in. Now I pull the plug on the
transom, it has a flap to keep water from flowing in but drains itself
when moving.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 8/10/2016 2:56 PM, Dennis
In PHRF Long Island Sound, the whisker pole length is limited to your LP
dimension (clew to luff), not sure how other areas address pole length.
If you sail non-spinnaker and use your spinnaker pole with the jib, you
can actually get a credit depending on the size of the jib.
Neil Gallagher
Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new
shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set
screws, tightened them and wired them in place. After about two months
the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think
what happened
Bruce:
3JH2 series manual available here:
http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/0
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/28/2017 1:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,
The engine in our 37/40+ is a Yanmar 3JH2E. Anyone know where I can
download a
Tom,
FWIW, I get a similar amount of water in the boat as you're finding,
most comes down the mast. However, water under the settee is most
likely from hull/deck joint. My boat had also been on the hard for
three years before my purchase, and the lockers under the port settees
were all
I'd echo what others have said, it's a great trip, certainly easier to
go with the current. Little while ago I helped bring a boat from Mill
Basin, right near Far Rockaway, to LI Sound; there's some ferry traffic
in Rockaway Inlet, but once clear if you hug the Brooklyn shore all the
way to
Ron,
I'm interested. I have a Raymarine ST40 Bidata (speed/depth) that I
feed to a Raymarine/Tacktick hull transmitter with Seatalk converter to
get boatspeed to the Tacktick. Would you or anyone on the list know if
this transmitter could feed the Tacktick as well?
Neil Gallagher
Joe,
Does that upper bearing come out without removing the rudder stock? I'm
getting some of the same movement at the top.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/26/2016 9:04 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
When my 35 MK I was doing that it was because the upper bearing
Sounds like you're referring to an internal boom bail:
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Boom_bails.html#Internal%20Boom%20Bails
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/18/2016 9:15 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
Anyone know the name and/or vendor for the stainless
When I bought Weatherly there was a Fortress, I think FX11, with it.
Most of the time it held, but once in a grassy bottom it just not set at
all in 18 kts breeze. After that, thanks to recommendations on this
list, I bought at 33 lb Rocna. The Fortress is my lunch hook only now.
Few weeks
For what its worth, Forespar gives whisker pole sizing info for C:
http://www.forespar.com/products/sail-spinnaker-pole-size-guide.shtml
In PHRF Long Island Sound, the max whisker pole length is equal to your
LP measurement. If you use your J-length spinnaker pole instead, PHRF
LIS gives you
http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=23
This conversation got me thinking the same thing, I need one of these.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/27/2016 9:18 PM, Graham Young via CnC-List wrote:
I was recently thinking of adding a mid-ship cleat
Ronald,
You are correct: fingers curl in rotation direction, thumb points in
direction of advance. Right hand for right-handed.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/12/2016 11:43 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
How does one interpret "right handed"? Looking from the
Normally unburnt fuel shows up as black smoke in the exhaust. When
mixed with water in our wet exhaust systems, that tends to be blackish
water mixed with black smoke. Not sure what you saw in your exhaust but
if it was an oil sheen, that would indicate liquid oil, which would have
to be
When I first put fresh water cooling on my A4, I did drain the block and
pump every year, but then it occurred to me that I was leaving the
interior of the engine filled with air and moisture, not the best
combination. Taking the side plate off in my case would be difficult.
I now make sure
Peter,
Not sure if anyone has addressed this, but I faced a similar situation
on my 35-1 which had been sitting for several years unused. I took the
aluminum tank out to thoroughly clean it, and found galvanized steel
hold down straps under the tank had caused so much corrosion that the
Steve,
I don't know if the 36 is the same as the 35-1 (1973), but mine had
about four or five layers of plywood encased in a thin fiberglass layer
spanning the bilge sump, the cast aluminum box was screwed on to the top
of it. No other fasteners of any kind, just glassed to the hull. When
Bill,
The early C's used the toe rail for the headsail sheets, there should
be a snatch block on a snap shackle that allows you to select any
position along the rail, then to the primary winch.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/25/2017 7:22 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List
http://www.deepzoom.com/
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/11/2017 3:24 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Listers,
Can anyone recommend a source for current data for Plum Gut and the
Race in Eastern LI Sound?
Specifically, I want to know the direction and speed at high
, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
On Apr 11, 2017, at 4:26 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
http://www.deepzoom.com/
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/11
Larry,
No need to lubricate the cutless bearing. They are water lubricated.
The allen screws are what help to hold it in place.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/15/2017 10:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List wrote:
I hope this is not a stupid question
I am 4 years new to
Kevin,
Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was
mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru
bolts, that hold the toilet down. The "studs" are called hanger bolts,
they have a wood-screw thread on one end, and a machine thread on
Another approach, if the front pulley is accessible, is to put a deep
socket on the nut holding the pulley to the crankshaft, then use a
socket wrench or a breaker bar to rotate the engine.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/20/2017 6:17 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Hello
)
*From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Neil
Gallagher via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Thursday, April 20, 2017 11:48 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar H
Interesting question, I just finished putting a vang on my 35-1. After
much internal debate, and talking to Garhauer from whom I got the
fittings, I went with tapped holes/screw, though drilling 8 holes in my
mast and 6 in my boom wasn't the most comforting thing to do. My only
logic was if
FWIW, I have a drawing from C for a "High Aspect Ratio Rudder" for a
retrofit to the 35-1, dated Feb '73. It shows a constant chord length
straight rudder, and interestingly, it calls for changing the angle of
the rudder stock from the old swept back to almost vertical. Shows
closing up the
Dave,
That's awesome, congratulations! It's such a great feeling when you've
done it all yourself, you learn so much doing it. Plus you know so much
more about the engine in general.
Way to go, now go sailing. Good luck on the Bermuda trip.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
Are you thinking of Cajun Rope?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/29/2017 11:28 AM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List wrote:
Looks line I have to replace the furling line on Liberty"s furling drum. What
was the name of that mail order company that sells
reasonable priced quality line I
Bruce,
The issue with putting a gasket under the cover is that now the cover
will be moved away from the edge of the vanes of the impeller. The pump
works by creating a vacuum in each space between the vanes at the inlet
as the impeller vanes open up and pressure when the vanes close down a
Dennis,
That was done to a 35-1 in my area, though I don't know how much shorter
the spreaders were made. Apparently the PHRF committee was notified,
but didn't take any action about it.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/3/2017 10:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
No
Why don't you just make 10 a little louder, make 10 the top number, make
that a little louder?
These go to 11.
/This is spinal tap./
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/19/2017 6:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Glenn,
Honestly, the only thing I did was wiring -- a few
Josh,
I'll second the recommendation of the 182C, I had almost the same, a
192C, until last summer when it suddenly died. I really liked having it
on the aft deck house bulkhead were skipper and crew can see and use it.
I've replaced it with a Garmin echoMap 54dv, which is pretty much an
Keel bolts should be torqued with the boat on the hard. It's like any
other bolted connection, you want to tighten it before you put the load
on the connection so that you pretension the bolts and compress the
joint. For a boat, that's before the weight of the keel is hanging on
the bolts.
I put a plastic tank in place of the original aluminum, which had
corroded through. Can't remember from whom I got it, but it was a
standard 15 gal tank that fit right in.
Plastic is nice because you can see the fluid level in the tank.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On
Hervey,
Getting it out was not too difficult, the tank fits out through the
lazarette under the starboard seat. My tank was held in place by two
galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest
part was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them
through
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
The torques are listed above.
You'll need a really big torque wrench or a torque multiplier.
Generally, these torques are for dry threads.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/3/2017 1:17 PM, Liz Mather
Hi Edd,
I'm probably not going to be able to make it by boat, can't take the
time off. However, we'd like to drive out on Saturday and take a look
at the boats, if we could. From the schedule that looks to be at 11:00
am?
Neil
On 8/21/2017 3:34 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Neil,
My 35-1 came with holes already drilled, on the side in the lower aft
corner. I put 4200 in them in the spring, remove it in the fall.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/7/2017 3:55 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote:
One of the items in our new C 35, Mark III was that
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2017/07/24/u-s-watercraft-receivership/
Appears it has gone into receivership.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/11/2017 10:18 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
Is C bankrupt again? I kind of lost track and they definitely were
not
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoIVcbcf4Dg
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/27/2017 2:31 AM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List wrote:
An update: X Dimension is back in Boston, moored at her usual home at
Waterboat Marina.
The boat was delivered from Boothbay by MIT's youngest
1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, December 14, 2017 22:05
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher <njgallag...@optonline.net>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List new h
*From: *"Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Neil Gallagher" <njgallag...@optonline.net>
*Sent: *Tuesday, December 12, 2017 5:54:23 AM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-Lis
It's common to have the lowers attach directly to the spreader bracket,
is it possible that the plate is part of the bracket? . Further, a plain
bolt through the mast, when tightened, could cause the walls of the mast
to bend or collapse. There should be a compression tube inside the mast
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
Look at menu on left, scroll down to "Email discussion list/suscribe"
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove NY
On 12/11/2017 10:40 AM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
A friend's just acquired a C and C and would like to join the list.
Could someone point me to
Jim,
I replaced the original wire/rope halyards a few years ago, using 3/8
Sta Set for both main and jib. Didn't do anything regarding the
masthead sheave, and it's been ok. I cruise mostly, as for racing my
sails are so blown out a slight strecthing of halyard won't make much
*From: *"Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Neil Gallagher" <njgallag...@optonline.net>
*Sent: *Sunday, December 10, 2017 2:59:43 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List new haylard
Interesting discussion. I've sanded the bottom of my 35-1 every year
for the past 8 years, probably has 40 yrs of old bottom paint on it some
of which still lifts up after sanding it smooth when I put the new paint
on. I've got all the gear, full face mask and suit, can do the whole
bottom
Reminds me of a related issue:
Friend of mine also lost his (brand new) dinghy in LI Sound last
summer. He called the Coast Guard, thinking if they found it they could
let him know. A day or two later they did call him back saying they
found it. When he went to pick it up they treated him
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009_ID=10005=Mk-5-Universal
My solution to the corroded Whale pump. Been working well for about 4
years now.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/7/2018 2:06 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:
Corrosion is precisely
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