I have a Drake R4B receiver that the S meter does not function properly.
Alignment or adjustment of pot on side does not seem to help. barely moves with
very strong signals. any ideas where to start?
Louie
What is the preferred Digital readout system for the Drake C-line, (R-4C and
T-4XC)?
What system has the largest readout digits?
Thank you.
73,
Chuck - AA5WG
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Chuck,
I have a TR-4C with a DD-103 Universal Digital Dial. It works GREAT.
I enclosed the link to their home page for more information. Hope
others reply with what Digital readout they are using.
http://www.electronicspecialtyproducts.com/dd103.html
73
Charles - KD8JZR
What is the
Thanks all for comments. Many good points, esp testing into dummy load.
I rebuilt the PS from the kit about 2-3 years ago; I bought a new pair of
matched 3-500Zs from a reliable source about 4-5 years ago when I put the amp
back into service after decades on a shelf. I don't see any difference
Louie -
Likely a tube. Could be lots of things. We need more information.
Does the receiver seem to work otherwise?
How 'loud' is the Calibrator signal?
Similar performance to another receiver on the same antenna?
Does the receiver handle strong signals, if there ARE any?
Does the
An update:
Before I could get the Rx on the bench to check things out, it stopped
doing this freq shift thing. I can't cause it to do it again..so for
now, nothing to do but enjoy the rig!
Curt
KU8L
Curt Nixon wrote:
Good Afternoon All:
Back from the summer off..
Fired up the B twins
Peter -
You have some good suggestions to try.
The first thing is to use a GOOD dummy load. It needs to be 50 ohms,
+/- 5% at a minimum.
A couple of things to consider. The 'standard' wattmeter, the Bird 43,
is only specified as +/- 5% of FULL SCALE. For the Palstar, which DOES
NOT even
Drake experts,
I'm carefully cleaning dried grease accumulated crud from the
spindles and reduction drive of an R-4A preselector that is dragging and
consequently slipping. What's the best lubricant to use on the reduction
drive
itself? NOTE: Based on Garey's advice I did *NOT*
Paul,
The reduction drive is crimped together and tough to do much with unless you
remove it and clean it with solvent. Its tough getting grease back into it as
well. I have taken a few of them apart and repaired a few that were worn out. I
use lithium grease but is not critical. If you
Paul,
I'm not an expert but what I have used from time to time are:
Silicon grease with a temperature range from -40 to +400 deg F.
NON-detergent, light motor oil.
I'm sure the real Drake experts can provide much better suggestions.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
-Original Message-
From:
I know that the later cabinets with the speckled finish (R-4B and
later?) are more demanding to repaint (or expensive if you pay someone to do
it)
but I gotta tell ya, Garey's suggestion of Rustoleum # for earlier
(R-4, R-4A) cabinets is excellent. I did the top bottom of R-4A s/n
On Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:19:13 -0400, K9sqg wrote:
I'm not an expert but what I have used from time to time are:
Silicon grease with a temperature range from -40 to +400 deg F.
NON-detergent, light motor oil.
I'm sure the real Drake experts can provide much better suggestions.
TriFlow bicycle
The speckled paint was epoxy paint, same stuff that's used on commercial
aviation boxes . Rustoleum satin black always looked good.___
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