I see in the ARRL weekly letter that the ARRL is disappointed that the FCC
is not holding to the 5 WPM requirement. I do not get too excited about what
the ARRL wants for I well remember what they did in the 1960's with
Incentive Licensing. However, I think they learned a hard lesson.. After
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas. Help me
narrow it down. If you have bought the stuff, who did you buy it from?
Thanks.
-Scott N3SW
___
I got it Scott from thewireman.com
Paul Gates
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Scott Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 8:01 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Antenna Wire
I am looking
Scott Walker wrote:
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas. Help me narrow it
down. If you have bought the stuff, who did you buy it from?
http://radioworks.com also carries it.
--
73,
I bought mine from the The Wireman, and love it. Fantastic stuff when using
the KX1.
Matt - K7OE
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott Walker
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 5:02 AM
To: elecraft reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Antenna
Plug this number into ebay search. I have dealt with this guy and he will
work with you off ebay for mast pieces and wire. But $13.75 buy it now is a
good price.
7531661381
Larry KW4A
ser# 811
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Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
When I was putting in the latest mods in my KPA100 and had the PC board
separated from the heat sink, I noticed that the thermal pads looked really
worn. I believe the bottom of the 2SC2879s could actually make contact with
the heat sink in places. There is a black non-conductive coating on
Thanks Ken, I'll check that. Also I noticed the S meter has 4 bars lit up all
the time. The S meter isn't moving with the voices peaks. They are booming on
another rig. Remember, I haven't gone past phase II yet.
Okay, I'm going to pull it all apart now and check.
Roland n5vwn
flying pig
Roy Morris wrote:
I don't think the
mounting surface of the 2SC2879 is a part of the circuit because the
two mounting screws make contact between the transistor and heat sink
anyway. The thermal pads are only used for heat transfer and not for
circuit isolation. Am I right about this?
Hi Larry,
True except maybe for the tech+.
Now I may be wrong. but I thought if you pass Element 2 and Element 1,
you get a csce for the Tech license and the csce says you passed the 5 wpm.
The csce for the 5 wpm is good only for a year. The reason is that the old
Tech+s are grandfathered
As an inactive VE (active up to a few years ago), I understand that in order to
be a:
Technician, you must pass the Technician written exam.
General, you must pass all the above and the General exam.
Extra, you must pass all the above, and the Extra (and 5 wpm exam).
Having a license or a CSCE
Sandy wrote:
Is this stuff real flexible? I've been using some old MIL SPEC type #26
guage
hookup wire!
Scott wrote:
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated
wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas
What is the advantage of this
Bob,
I would think Q3 is OK since it simply acts as a switch - it does not
produce any voltage. The MCU (U1) pin 39 is the source for voltage on the
drain of Q3, and a high level of somewhere near 5 volts is to be expected.
Look somewhere else for the problem. It is difficult to see directly
Q3 is probably not your problem. It is an open-drain switch that
inverts the 8R signal, conditioning it for the microcontroller. It
appears that the MCU provides the pullup for the signal through the
internal pullup on PB6. 4.99 volts is about right for this signal.
Just what is the relay
I use good quality probe wires like one used by Fluke. The cable
stay flexible even under cold weather during winter expedition. The
cable is, I think, around 20 gauge.
And I found red and black ;-)
Le 05-07-23 à 13:34, Sandy, W5TVW a écrit :
Is this stuff real flexible? I've been
Thanks, Don. Actually, I get NO action from ANY relay, although the LEDs
are switching correctly. I tried to check the signal RYDATA (as best I could
with no scope, only DMM) and it is an absolutely constant level. The front
panel signal FPDATA jumps around in value as the signals come
Roland,
At this point of construction you should have a fully complete 40 meter
receiver, and it should have good strong signals.
Did you do the AGC Threshold adjustment? you should have, but do recheck it,
and then set CAL S-LO and CAL S-Hi again (with no antenna connected). If
your problem
I don't know about you, but when I was backpacking, every ounce and square
inch was very significant. Put a KX1 and a tiny roll of #26 wire into a
backpack and it barely weighs anything or takes any room. 40', 50' or more
of #14 wire, no matter how flexable does not compact as small as the same
Hi all,
This is just a helpful tip for those who might need to debug an Elecraft
product.
I needed to isolate some items on my KPA100 that used the 5V line. If I cut
a couple of traces it would be very easy to do the trouble shooting. What I
was afraid of was that the trace repairs would be
I've been near your neighborhood (Huntsville) and I remember lots of trees
for antenna supports, Mike. Most of my daypacking and even car camping is in
the desert where a crappie pole is the highest thing around unless I can
find a large boulder to secure to. Even #22 teflon and RG-316 or -174
Bob,
I don't have a KAT100 here to check it, but I can say that how much RYDATA
wiggles up and down will depend on what the microprocessor is trying to
initially set the relays to - if it happens to be all '1s' the line may
always be high during the setting time frame. That data is locked into
On Jul 23, 2005, at 11:42 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, Don. Actually, I get NO action from ANY relay, although
the LEDs
are switching correctly. I tried to check the signal RYDATA (as
best I could
with no scope, only DMM) and it is an absolutely constant level.
The front
panel
Steve,
That method works, but beware that if the board flexes, the solder only
repair will have a tendency to fracture (solder is not as ductile as the
copper traces). I highly recommend scraping off a small bit of the green
solder mask stuff at the cut location and lay a strand or two of bare
Jack, as I mentioned to Don, I get NO relay action on ANY relay, as I switch
from ANT1 to ANT2 and /or adjust POWER on the K2/KPA100. The KAT100 front
panel LEDs light up correctly.
I was almost certain that before when I checked I saw no change on RYDATA,
but I checked again and found that
Bob,
If you can see a drop on the RYDATA voltage when you switch from ANT1 to
ANT2, you can chase that bit through the first shift resister - look for a
similar drop at U2 pin 18 (and U3 pin 3). It will only drop for the change
from ANT1 to ANT2 (and not the other way 'round), and you get only
This is a new KAT100, just completed and under test. I have never observed
ANY relay action.
RYLOAD remains at 2.25v and bounces a bit each time I adjust, say, ANT1 to
ANT2.
RYCK appears steady at about zero; and 5Megs to ground with no power.
U3-3 and U4-4 are always zero, also 5Megs to
Matt wrote:
... when I was backpacking, every ounce and square inch
was very significant.
Having been on many several-day back pack trips over the past 30 years
(mainly in the Arkansas Ozarks, not on Mount Everest), I'd say that is true
to a point, but overstressed. Will an eight-ounce
Thanks Don and others,
Seems to have been a cold solder joint AGAIN! In the area of L1 and L2. I
think it was c5 but not sure. I re-touched all of it and it came to life!
Ye!
Now as I listen to the qso's, I noticed when I tune a little, there is a
fluttery sound (almost an echo but
That should go away when you run the Cal PLL if it doesn't check to see if
RFC15 is open. If it is you will see almost a one volt drop across it. and
the resistance when measured with the power off will be very high.
73
Jim K4ZM
___
Elecraft
See notes and questions inside your comments...
On Jul 23, 2005, at 1:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is a new KAT100, just completed and under test. I have never
observed ANY relay action.
What makes you think the box is running at all? What is being
displayed on the front panel,
NB: this posting is about an Elecraft radio
;-)
* * *
I was thinking about doing two things to my vereable
K2 #0771, as I wait for new Elecraft toys:
... one is to re-jigger the divider resistors to
offset the K2 voltmeter so it reads what my actual
input-port voltage is, rather than the
To put it another way, what _is_ working?
Sorry, I had not repeated information from an earlier post: I have proceded
in constructing the KAT100 as far as the step of connecting the KAT100 to the
K2/KPA100, on the K2 panel switching back and forth between ANT1 and ANT2,
looking for proper
Steve,
Although some have been confused by the readings at first, I don't see any
advantage in modifying the internal voltmeter to read the external supply
voltage - what it reads is the actual voltage the K2 is operating at - but
if changing it is your choice, by all means do it - it should be a
Hello Group,
Just completed 4991 plus SSB, DSP, NB, KAT and KIO.
Wondering:
Would it be wise, prudent, useful, great idea, stupid - you pick 'em - to
put the K2 Dummy Load on KAT Ant 2 and the regular antenna on Ant 1?
I'm not sure about the auto feature, would it automatically chose the
I agree with Vic, and do just that with the KAT100.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
-
Vic Rosenthal wrote:
tom.w3qs wrote:
Would it be wise, prudent, useful, great idea, stupid - you pick 'em - to
put the K2 Dummy Load on KAT Ant 2 and the regular antenna on
Good Evening,
Summer has come to Oregon at last. We had nice temperatures (almost
got to 80F one day) and just a little rain. The dry weather means the log
trucks only run from 4:30 AM until around 12 Noon so the noise and dust
settle down around lunch. 20 meters was a bit tough for fox
The method I use when repairing traces is to scrape the trace on each
side of the cut for about 1/4 inch and tin the trace. I bend one lead
of a resistor into a L shape and place the lead over the trace and
heat it to melt the solder. I then cut the lead just beyond the
solder at the bend.
The VEC CSCE has the places to circle for credit. It says
for pre 3/21/87 Technicians circle 3/21/87 Tech-EL 1+3
for pre 2/14/91 Technicians circle 2/14//91 Tech-El 1
for lifetime Novice code credit circle Novice-El 1
for a valid or expired-less-than-5-years FCC Radiotelegraph
license/permit
Hi Don,
You said : By lowering the value of R10 ... Could I just put a
trimmer near that value instead of R10 and tune the trimmer so that
the voltage displayed match more closer the real external voltage ???
And could I do limilar thing with the current display ???
I don't want to be
Hi Don,
You said : By lowering the value of R10 ... Could I just put a
trimmer near that value instead of R10 and tune the trimmer so that
the voltage displayed match more closer the real external voltage ???
And could I do limilar thing with the current display ???
I don't want to be
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