Several customers reported that our web site wasn't behaving correctly
with the Safari browser, which is supplied with Macs. Thanks to
analysis by Marc North, W6SQL, we've now fixed the problem, and as a
bonus, site navigation is faster. (Thanks, Marc.)
Any additional comments about the site
I recently purchased the HL2Kfx direct from Nobuki and had similar experience.
Great company and service. Products are top notch also. According to Nobuki
they will be back in US market next year.
Tim W4YN
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 22:27:43 -0600
Good Day,
I have had an HL-50B for
Bob -
These keyers are designed and built, I think, in Slovenia.
The only way to get them is through their US distributor
via Internet.
http://www.microham.com/
Their web site is most informative and Joe, the ham
who runs the US operation, is most helpful if you have questions.
The keyer is
I just bought a HL-100BX earlier this year. Nobuki shipped the amp
very fast. I received it from Japan in 5 days at my door. I even
called him directly in Japan and talked with him a few moment; very
nice guy. Exellent product. I even received the FT-817 cable to drive
the amplifier.
If
Larry,
How are you interfacing the computer with the radio?
Lots of new computers have no RS-232 ports or
parallel ports. A high-end HP laptop I bought this
August has only USB ports. I tried connecting a
USB to RS-232 or parallel adapter to the suggested circuit
for keying the K2. In my
Hello all,
I'm heading out to operate the Spookfest from Wertz Covered Bridge here
in PA for a few hours. I'll be on 40m 20m ssb and 40m 20m cw. When I
get home, I plan to operate some psk31 too. The Spookfest starts at
1700utc today! Tomorrow I plan to operate psk31, cw and ssb at two more
Hello all.
I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
cooling.
I have a couple of 3 computer case fans and was wondering from those
who've done the same about placement and whether blow the air onto the
heatsink or suck it through.
Thanks for your input.
R. Kevin
I have a very nice built KAT 100-1 for sale, I would like $275. plus UPS.
Howard AE3T
Allentown, PA
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Kevin -
It has been my experience that blowing air onto a heat sink is usually
more effective than sucking air. If the heat sink is carefully
shrouded and the incoming airflow is properly controlled, then either
method is supposed to be effective. However, for uncontrolled or casual
Kevin,
The easiest solution is to simply lay the fan (horizontally) across the heat
sink fins. Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works in
tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
airstream.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I'm getting my
Also sure you don't have anything blocking the fins at the *front* of the
K2. The air blown in the back by the little fan comes out between the fins
where they reach the plate at the front of the KPA100. I've found that a lot
of people don't realize the gaps are there to let the air escape.
For
Ten-Tec has a very nice model 310 cooling fan for the Orion,Omni,Corsair
series radios, that fits very nicely on the top of the K2/100, hangs a
little
bit off the rear, and if you use the tilt bail on the K2, you can use a
rubber
band to temp hold it on, have used it this way many times, works
Kevin;
For some of my K2 power tests, I've placed a single 12V fan on the heat sink
with 6-32 screws through the fan mounting holes to hold the fan about an
inch above the heat sink. The fan blows air down onto the top of the heat
sink. With that combination, I can run key down full power
I have K1 SN950 with the 4 band module, Antenna Tuner and battery
module. It has been working like a champ for 3 years. Now, it has
decided it does not want to transmit on 20 meters and weakly on 30M.
Radio works fine on all other bands. Radio receives fine on all bands.
When I attempt to
Hi all,
I was inside my power supply ( a Radio Shack 25 amp job) today and
decided to increase the output voltage to 14.0 volts. I thought this would
give me a bit of a boost in charging the internal battery of my K2 (low
power version with a few optional add-ons).
I don't see anything
Hi Jerry,
I had the same problem last year. I had the early 4 band board. I purchased
the KFL1-4TRIMKIT. I tried to install the trimmers but I had a hard time. So
I just purchased another four band kit. Now the K1 works great from the
Appalachian Trail.
72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
Working my way through the assembling of the KPA/100 I am unable to find the
capacitor C50 in the schematic on page 64/65 in the manual. Please?
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I also just did the volume control mod today on my K2 (s/n 1116). It worked
great, and now the control is very quiet at the low volume end. Thanks to
Wayne and Tom Hammond for the excellent instructions and illustrations that
made it super easy to follow.
ps - I just inherited a Drake T-4X
G'day,
| sink fins. Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works
in
| tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
| airstream.
The air stream from the internal fan flows into the K2 under the KPA100
heatsink and emerges from the front. That way it keeps
I cannot find it on the schematic either, but I looked at the board scans on
Tom Hammond's webpage and it looks like it is a bypass on the T SENSE
signal - at least it appears to my eyes as though one side goes to the
ground plane and the other side connects to collector of Q3. With the
actual
Tom,
If your goal is to keep the internal battery fully charged, bump the PS
output up a bit more (to 14.4) - you apparently still have the older
protective SB530 diode in your K2 SN1103, for those with post SN3000 or
upgraded K2s the proper voltage will be 14.2 to 14.3 volts because diode D10
-Original Message-
The air stream from the internal fan flows into the K2 under the KPA100
heatsink and emerges from the front. That way it keeps much of the heat
out of the box.
That is why I recommend pulling the air upward from the heat sink - so it
will help pull the air from
The instructions for the improved AG Gain wiring can be found on the
Builders Resource page at the Elecraft website. For those who prefer a
direct link to the .pdf file it is
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K2_AF_pot/K2_AF_gain_app_note.pdf
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I think I
Jerry,
Looking at the schematic for the 4 band filter board and the K1, I do not
see anything that is common between 30 meters and 20 meters unless it is bad
relay points (but not likely K1).
I would suggest that you try to localize the trouble area. Use a 'scope or
RF probe and compare the RF
Just to let everyone know that are/were interested in K2Comm, a K2 control
program by yours truly, the .zip install file and the VB6 source files are
at:
http://webpages.charter.net/w4atkontheweb
I make no promises, but think it is pretty clean. I would appreciate any
reports. You know
Good Evening,
I hope all is well with you. We've had quite a bit of rain here and
down in Hillsboro. Luckily we do not get much lightning. In fact that is
quite rare unless you live in or near the Columbia Gorge. Yesterday 20
meters was in good shape and the night before was the first
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