Leigh,
Another important parameter is the sensitivity - this mic is -70 dB which is
even lower than the Heil HC-4 and HC-5 elements that have been discussed
recently. And you must add your own mic plug - and no doubt you would need a
preamp with this one.
A better choice is the Ten-Tec Model 701
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 04:03:03 -0500 (EST) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If only the firmware could determine when it was connected to
the KPA-100/KAT-100 or not and return control to the KAT-2.
(Sorry Wayne g.)
It kind of does.
Upon detection of a KAT2 (in K2 enclosure), and KPA100/KAT100
(in
Hi Fred,
This is strictly 'Top of head' thinking. Space and control might be a
problem if you wanted to use both SSB and FM, but it might be possible if a
'FM' board (KFM2 ?) could use the space assigned to the KSB2 and SSB not
used. For transmit the necessary RF input / output and audio input
As hinted to in Don's comments there is another reason for going with the
KPA-100.
I love the fact that the KPA-100 has an integrated solid state T/R switch so
you can run full QSK.
Most of the imported amps are relay driven via the PTT line or RF sensing
with a time delay and are not able to be
Thanks Tom!
I checked my second K2/100 on 160 into a dummy load
and it looks like it draws about 18A at 12.5 VDC.
So I'm guessing I miscounted turns. Will check it out
over the weekend, assuming 10 isn't hopping.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
--- Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Fellas:
For
Here is some more muck. I just checked my K2/100 on 160M into a dummy load
and measured 14.5A @ 13.5V on my Astron RS-20M, although I'm not sure how
accurate the meters are on the PS. I don't have the Kat100. I do get some
strange readings on my 160 inv-v and my inv-L but that can be due to
Hi folks,
I´m looking for an tuner that works fully symmetrical like e.g. the MFJ
974h but tunes automatically in a remote place, e. g. like the elecraft
longwire-tuner.
I have the following idea: why not involve two lw-tuners in parallel and
let them tune one leg of the balanced feedline
This is another source of more involved amplifier kits
for those who like a challenge. They have been
recommended to me any number of times, although I've
never used them (nor have an interest in the company)
http://www.communication-concepts.com/hf_amplifiers.htm
73,
Julius
n2wn
I got one for a Kenwood rig (maybe TS850, don't remember right now) because
the color was the closest to the K2 color.
If you have the K2/KPA100 combination, be careful where you drill the holes
such that you do not have the hardware touching something when it is all back
together.
73,
Henry
Hi Gang,
As has already been pointed out, if you only want an amp for your K2, the
KPA100 is the only choice IMHO. You can't beat the combination of price and
features. However, I have several other QRP rigs, and having something that
could be used with most or all of them was of interest
Hi!
I'm currently finishing up K2 #5757 and plan to add SSB in the near future.
I currently have an Icom 746 and the Heil Pro-set Ic. I'm wondering if I'll
be able to use that headset with the K2? From what I've read, it sounds
like the right choice as the mike output is higher for both the
Tom Althoff wrote:
As hinted to in Don's comments there is another reason for going with the
KPA-100.
I love the fact that the KPA-100 has an integrated solid state T/R switch so
you can run full QSK.
Most of the imported amps are relay driven via the PTT line or RF sensing
with a time delay
Fred...I believe you are right! Need to ck the screws after mobile /or
portable operationsboth of which I have done.
73 de K5AVJ
Lynn (K2#1411)
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In the K60XV manual on the top of p. 16 it mentions a
possible modification of the KPA100 80m low pass
filter for use on 60m instead of the default 40/30m
low pass filter. It makes reference of a future
application note for this.
Has this application note been written yet? I
couldn't find one
One way to keep screws in place is a drop of CA (superglue) on the thread.
Use the thin, runny kind, not the thick stuff, and put just enough on the
end of the screw to fill the threads that will engage the front panel.
I've used superglue that way with great success in many places. It's not
I thought of feeding the coax inputs of two small tuners (like the MFJ16010)
from the output of a 1:1 balun (like the BL1). Use banana plugs to connect
the balun output to the center pin of the input coax connector. Connect the
tuner grounds together and - presto - a balanced tuner! This may work
Jim,
Not difficult IMHO, but you decide on the level of difficulty for you.
Certainly that D104 can be made to work with the K2. If it is the amplified
version, no problem, just give it the proper microphone plug and all will be
well.
If it is the unamplified version, then you will have to
Hi,
I have a K2 that work great since 2003, but this morning Nop.
Nothing change on my setup, I was just operate my rig this morning as
usual and found this morning that my SSB TX audio looks horrible...
sounds like RF feedback a few hams told me. but...
I tried the K2 on a dummy
A little pricey but exactly what your looking for.
http://www.hamware.de/
Rich - N5ZC
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought of feeding the coax inputs of two small tuners (like the MFJ16010)
from the output of a 1:1 balun (like the BL1). Use banana plugs to connect
the balun output to the
I built my own. You can see a 'brassboard' of it on my web page
http://www.qsl.net/k7fj/
The tuner now uses a BasicX PIC which has far more memory available than the
Basic Stamp PIC. The tuner works great at 500 watts when driving my 600
foot horizontal loop through ladderline.
I plan to
For Sale: Chrome base Vibroplex, Original Deluxe model in good condition.
It has a single, small weight and I'll include an extra brass weight
machined to the same size as one from Vibroplex to tame the speed a bit.
Serial number places it as being manufactured around 1962. Included is a
home
In my last posting I got Don's call incorrect. I meant to say W3FPR. Thanks
Don for the help in getting me started by looking at the three circuits using
CAL FCTR. I was able to isolate the problem with the frequency counter to the
VFO area. Retinning the T5 leads fixed the VFO circuit and
Hi Jim - I use my old D-104 with the original crystal cartridge all the time
with my K2 and get great reports. No need for a preamp, etc. as the crystal
cartridge has output to burn!
The problem with using a nonamplified D-104 with the K2 is that the D-104 is
a very high impedance mic and
Jean-Francois,
Can you check your microphone? That sounds a lot like a bad mic element to
me. Try another mic if you can - if you are wired for the electret mic
(with the resistor), then you can even use one of the inexpensive computer
mics.
In any case, substantiating that the mic is good is
On Friday 08 December 2006 13:32, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am still wishing for a truly balanced auto tuner with one set of
capacitors and two sets of inductors.
I have an SG-231: its manual states that it can be used
in a loop, one end to the 'hot' terminal and the other
to the 'ground'
I have an SG-231: its manual states that it can be used in a loop, one
end to the 'hot' terminal and the other to the 'ground' terminal.
Would there be a significant difference using a balanced tuner?
Ian, I also have the 231 and it is an unbalanced tuner. I tried it with the
Cobra
I saw this mic advertised. It looks like it might work with the K2. It's
about $15, and looks vaguely like the now discontinued Elecaft MH2. The
specs: dynamic mic, 500 ohms inpedance (sic), PTT, coiled cord:
http://www.j-tron.com/product/Dynamic_Microphone.html
I haven't ordered one, but
My K2 seems to have way too much gain with the preamp on for 30
meters, OR I have a bad EMI problem here. The noise level stays at 10 to 20
over S9 with it on, and it is not useable with the noise floor that high.
With the preamp off, the S-meter seems to sit around S3. Is this normal for
Hi all, the 10mx band is open between US and VK right now. Big sigs.
I just worked AF7DX/KH6 with 59 reports. I am running the K2/100 and
just a vertical antenna.
Cheers,
Dave
VK2NA
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You
They're going to be my RTTY filters, and I'm going to have a lot more
fun in RTTY contests!
Thanks for putting me onto this,
Fred K6DGW
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Fred,
Remember that the RTTY filters are just a set of 4 extra filters - you can
use them for whatever purpose you want - and it does
Stan,
Things are a bit on the noisy atmospheric side right now, so what you are
hearing may be compounded by that, but certainly not at an S-3 or higher
levell. Of course, that has nothing to do with whether or not to use the
PreAmp on 30 meters (or any other band).
If you turn the preamp off,
The noise you hear floating across the bands - MIGHT- be one
or more ionospheric sounders. These are transmitters that send
high-power signals ... usually straight up ... into the ionosphere.
They usually sweep upward from frequencies below the BC band
into the higher HF regions and can be
Don W3FPR, I wanted to relate something I am seeing with the K2
S-meter when tuned to the 30m band. I have two bars showing continuously,
whether I have the preamp off or the attenuator on or the antenna completely
disconnected. Just shows those first two bars all the time. It does not do
I just assembled the AN762. It is an easy build, although the directions
are nowhere
Near Elecraft quality. I had to go between the drawings and the schematics
some to figure out what went
Where. The amplifier modules are pretty robust, and well designed. Very good
quality stuff.
I recommend
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