The SOC Marathon Sprint will be held this weekend, rules below. It will
run concurrently with the Elecraft QSO Party. Rules for the EQP are at
http://www.elecraft.com/Awards/eqp_2007.htm
Since the exchanges are similar, it is possible to participate in both
contests at the same time. I will
I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
___
Elecraft
No it won't but not sure that is going to help you.
What method are you using to tin the leads?
I as well as most others have had great success just burning the enamel off
with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep feeding
fresh solder to it with the winding lead on the
Perhaps, I will run afoul with the list crowd, but from the get go on my
first Elecraft kit, a K1, S/N 02326 (finished 5 days ago), I could not
get fond of burning the enamel off. I tried the fine sand paper route
wrapping a 3 inch long X .5 in wide strip around a plastic drinking
straw and
You can (and should) tin the leads all the way up to the core. The cores
are not conductive (although the ferrite cores do have a high resistance),
so it will not short out. The thing to be careful of is not to allow two
adjacent turns to short together.
I suspect you are not using enough heat
Al and/or Dianne,
If you have a Hakko-style soldering pump similar to the Model 808, its nozzle
(ordinarily used for desoldering) makes a great way to heat and apply solder to
the varnished leads to remove varnish and tin them quickly.
Prior to using that technique (recently suggested on this
I own most of the Elecraft Mini Kits and up until now I haven't found any
need to put them in an enclosure. However, since I've built the W1 Power
Meter - that has changed. The W1 is just too awkward to use as it is. Every
time I used it I would look for a convenient place to lean it. Even then,
Hi Al (or is it Dianne?)... no sig, can't tell... sorry!
I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
Adding flux won't hurt... BUT,
Bruce/Dianne:
I am curious about the removal of toroid wire enamel covering
material in preparation for winding. Is it essential that bare wire
not touch the toroid ring?
Most of the toroidal cores (ferrite, colored cores) used in Elecraft
kits are NON-CONDUCTIVE, so it's not nearly as
Hi
Someone on the list some time ago gave a very efficient way for cleaning the
wire, but you need a desoldering iron with a sucker tip. You prepare a
good blob of solder which you suck inside the tip, then slip an inch or so
of your enamelled wire in the tip, wait 5 or ten seconds and you press
Hi Steve
My mail went begfre I read yours...!
73
Jacques
F9OJ
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Al Dianne Bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tororids
Al and/or Dianne,
If you have a
I use the solder blob approach and one trick I found is that taking a couple
of swipes with a piece of fine grit sandpaper pinched around the wire really
helps with making the solder blob approach go much faster.
Like others mentioned: high heat and continuous feed of rosin core solder is
Sorry, I meant BEFORE, not begfre
Jacques
- Original Message -
From: f9oj.7 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Al Dianne Bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED];
Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tororids
Hi Steve
My mail went
Tom,
That is an interesting idea.
I just ordered a W1 myself. after I get it working as designed, I am thinking
of mounting the RF connectors and sense transformer in a Pomona or Hammond
enclosure, and bringing the sigs to the board via iso bnc connectors. Looking
at the schematic, I will
Darrell,
This is a shot in the dark, but when I was tracking down a problem
with low audio on my K2, I found that C10 in the AGC circuit was leaky,
allowing some signal to appear at U1 pin 2, and causing all kinds
of oddities when AGC was turned on.
73 de chris K6DBG
Hi Group,
As I mentioned in this mail reflector, W1 is a piece of good handy tool and
most likely to be used under outdoor portable condition. A customised
enclosure is a need. If any of you have any idea about such an enclosure,
please post it in this reflector so that we can share your
On Tuesday 06 March 2007 08:40, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I suggest the 'solder blob' method for tinning the toroid leads.
I was told, twenty seven years ago, that this puts
carcinogenic chemicals into the air.
I use a scalpel blade to scrape the enamel off.
Seeing the shaved enamel on my
I recall at one time downloading a short video showing the solder
blob method of stripping enamel from wires. I found it to be quite
helpful and believe it was from the Emtech web site, but can't locate
the URL. Perhaps someone on the list has this bookmarked and can
post it.
Bob, N7XY
HI
All the other HF radios that I have had over the years have had
grounding posts on them. My K2 doesn't. Should it not be grounded?
Seems to me it would be a lot less likely to have RF in the shack if
it was grounded, but where would it be attached? Is anyone grounding
theirs and if so where are
Huh?
Mine has a grounding post on the back. Tuner and the rig both.
??
Rich
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:40 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] grounding K2
HI
All
On March 5, 2007 08:07 am, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
Regardless of where I set the AGC threshold voltage via R1, the K2 always
has more gain with the AGC off than with the AGC on. The lower the AGC
threshold voltage the less the difference between AGC off and on.
I removed C181 connecting the
Well I took the plunge when I built my K2 and bought a solder pot. I think it
was around $100.00, it worked great. I knew I would be building more
equipment with torroids and wanted a quick way to tin. I think it took me 5
minutes to tin all the torroids in the K2 and about the same to do the
On Mar 6, 2007, at 9:39 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
HI
All the other HF radios that I have had over the years have had
grounding posts on them. My K2 doesn't. Should it not be grounded?
Seems to me it would be a lot less likely to have RF in the shack if
it was grounded, but where would it be
Hi all,
I made a custom enclosure for my W1 and AF1 out of Lexan that I picked up at
Home Depot. I purchased some IPS Weld-On 3 and some soft plastic glue backed
feet from TAP Plastics www.tapplastics.com . The Weld-On 3 is a solvent that
when applied to clean joints of acrylic, plastic and in
Scott,
There is no need to ground the K2 (or any other RF generator). It will NOT
help with RF in the shack. The place to reduce RF in the shack is at the
antenna.
A generator (K2 in this case) with a coax output will contain its RF output
to the center conductor of the coax and the INSIDE of
Gang!
The construction of KX1 #1727
http://www.kc5wa/kx1/1727.html went really smooth all
the way through the build. ALL the checks were well
within spec's. It was even okay after adding the 30m
mod with superb RX Power out was about 3watts. Then I
built and installed the ATU during the
CORRECTION..http://www.kc5wa.us/kx1/1727.html
___
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Correction Gang!
The construction of KX1 #1727
http://www.kc5wa.us/kx1/1727.html went really smooth
all the way through the build. ALL the checks were
well within spec's. It was even okay after adding the
30m mod with superb RX Power out was about 3watts.
Then I built and installed the ATU
No need to apologize. Your comments are right on target for this reflector.
If some feel otherwise, there is always the delete key, or they can
unsubscribe.
My reply to this post is a little late because I just spent 2 weeks in the
hospital and I am just catching up...
IMHO, this remark is
Ian Stirling wrote:
I was told, twenty seven years ago, that this puts
carcinogenic chemicals into the air.
So does soldering. You could assemble your K2 with glue, however that
too has toxic solvents. Best bet is a fan and hood to suck up the lead
fumes and deposit them somewhere
RC,
I assume you pulled the KXAT1 out - did you remember to install the jumper?
There is little that you could have done by transmitting that should harm
the receiver, the paths are separate except through the LPF.
For your KXAT1 problem, the usual answer when you have trouble nulling the
bridge
My new website is at www.k9ew.us.
tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Hello, all...
I've just built K2 #5957 and installed the DSP unit. Radio and DSP are both
impressive as is. It seem intuitive to me that the DSP filter's center
frequencies should agree with the CW sidetone. That is, if I use a 440cps
side tone, then all the DSP center frequencies - on CW -
I've just built K2 #5957 and installed the DSP unit. Radio and DSP are
both impressive as is. It seem intuitive to me that the DSP filter's
center frequencies should agree with the CW sidetone. That is, if I use
a 440cps side tone, then all the DSP center frequencies - on CW - should
be
Along these lines, is there a way to set the DSP back to factory
defaults? Pull the battery? I seem to remember reading in the manual
there was, but now that I want that info, I can't find it :|
Jeff
On 3/6/07, Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've just built K2 #5957 and installed the
Along these lines, is there a way to set the DSP back to factory
defaults? Pull the battery? I seem to remember reading in the manual
there was, but now that I want that info, I can't find it :|
You have to enter them. There is a chart in the manual with the default
settings listed.
73,
Not the Perfect enclosure, but for $3.99 at Fry's,
it will do fine for my needs ...
The enclosure is the PAC-TEC K-HML-E ...
Pictures are here ...
http://weywalker.home.mindspring.com/
72/3, Weymouth Walker (Wey) ...
K8EAB in metro Atlanta, GA
___
Thanks Don,
You were right - I contacted Elecraft and they are shipping the K2
firmware. I will order the SSB tuner firmware upgrade and key
waveshape mod as you have recommended.
Thanks!
Paul
AD5IW
On Sun, 4 Mar 2007, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Paul,
I believe the Elecraft rule still is: If
I know several folks have asked for ideas about cases for the naked
W1 wattmeter. I recently acquired a Pelican 1040 MicroCase
(they are sold new on Ebay) and it works great to protect the
wattmeter during transport, etc. I mounted the BNC jacks on
the bottom of the board (and used elevated
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