I didn't see anything in the K3 FAQ regarding the way CW sidetone and
phone transmit audio monitor levels are controlled.
Push and hold MON. Then adjust it. If you are in SSB, it'll adjust
your SSB monitor volume. If you are in CW, it'll adjust your sidetone
level. The radio remembers
The definitive paper on noise, bandwidth and their relationships in a
communications channel is still Claude Shannon's 1948 paper A
Mathematical Theory of Communication:
http://cm.bell-labs.com/cm/ms/what/shannonday/paper.html
It's the signal to noise ratio in the channel that will
Gus,
Of the four knobs to the left of the main tuning knob, the lower right one
has a HOLD function of MON (Monitor). This adjusts both the sidetone level
and monitor level in other modes.
73
Greg
AB7R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Hello
My K2 makes a popping noise when keying it on cw. I remember when I was a
kid my mother
would wash the bed sheets and hang them on an outside clothes line, and if
the wind was
blowing the sheets would make a popping sound. That sounds exactly the same
as the noise
I am hearing on the
AB7R wrote:
...
Of the four knobs to the left of the main tuning knob, the lower right one
has a HOLD function of MON (Monitor). This adjusts both the sidetone level
and monitor level in other modes.
Hi Greg,
Thanks to both you and Lyle for the timely responses.
I had assumed there is a way
The monitor levels are independent of and not changed by the main and
sub volume controls.
73, Eric
Augie Hansen wrote:
AB7R wrote:
...
Of the four knobs to the left of the main tuning knob, the lower
right one
has a HOLD function of MON (Monitor). This adjusts both the sidetone
level
Hi Scott:
Check the t-r delay in the menu. If it is set to 0.0, then try it with
the delay set to 0.1.
73,
Ken K3IU
Scott McDowell wrote:
Hello
My K2 makes a popping noise when keying it on cw. I remember when I
was a kid my mother
would wash the bed sheets and hang them on an outside
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
The monitor levels are independent of and not changed by the main and
sub volume controls.
Thanks Eric,
That's music to my ears, so to speak.
Gus
KB0YH
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Post to:
Hello
Thanks to Sam Kl7V and Ken K3IU, my popping noise on my K2 is cured.
I had the T-R set on 0.02, so moved it to 0.04 and that stopped the noise.
I sure appreciate your help.
Thanks
Scott N5SM
_
Picture this share your photos
Clark Macaulay wrote:
build process was unable to get 3.80: my dmm reads 3.76 but only at the
extreme end of R1's range.
I forgot to mention that I can only get 3.79, but that seems to be a bug
in the manual. If one assumes U2b (i.e. got the a and b mixed before)
doesn't load the voltage, I
Due to a hard disk problem I have switched to Linux on the shack
computer. I know there are a few people using Linux with their K2s.
Perhaps they could give me a bit of help.
I have installed gMFSK. I am using a K2 serial cable which has the
addition of a transistor switch on DTR. With MixW
Does anyone know if WriteLog supports Virtual Keying of CW/PTT
through the K2 KIO2 interface? I've used N1MM in the past with other
rigs but it doesn't support Elecrafts Virtual Keying.
Thanks
- JT
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On 6/30/07, Philip Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
PTT doesn't go through the KIO2. You would be better off using it
through the KEY line. I don't use writelog, so I don't know your unique
situation.
Thanks for your reply but I do read manuals before I post and it says
I can key CW/PTT
JT,
You are correct, not many applications support the K2 virtual keying.
I do wish that would change, and perhaps it will now that Elecraft has
gotten more attention with the K3 (well, wishful thinking sometimes
produces results G).
I can only believe that it is not supported because the
As some of you know, I've been looking at putting together a K2
station for portable RTTY/PSK31 operation. However, as I am looking
at the cost differences, I am now wondering if I might better off with
a K3. Here is my dilemma:
I am disabled and unable to solder because the medications I am
It is a simple answer, really. A factory built K3 and you're all set.
de Joe, aa4nn
- Original Message -
From: John Tobias Croteau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 8:23 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K3
As some of you know, I've been
Therefore, by the time I buy the kits from Elecraft and pay
for assembly, I am looking at $1270 to $1370 for a basic K2
with what I need for data ops. For $1399, I can get a K3/10
with the same features plus many extras and better
performance.
Maybe I should also look for a used K2 but
On 6/30/07, Mike Short [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The basic 10W rig is about 1400. More than the K2, though.
What were you getting with the K2?
Yup, that's my dilemma. K2 + KAF2 + KSB2 + KIO2 is $925 delivered.
Builders want between $350 and $450 for assembly. According to my
doctor and social
Is the green wire supposed to go to J8 pin 1 (next to arrow) as show on page 10
diagram, or is it to go to pin 2 as described in the manual text?
How about the rest of the wires, do they go as the diagram indicates?
Thanks
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Elecraft
People charge money to build a K2?
I thought it was fun.
I just sold my KPA100 for less then I paid for it,
as I figured the person who bought it did not get
the fun of building it, and that's worth something...
I would do it for free, but summer is busy time for me,
work, yard work, paint
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007, John Tobias Croteau wrote:
On 6/30/07, Mike Short [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The basic 10W rig is about 1400. More than the K2, though.
What were you getting with the K2?
Yup, that's my dilemma. K2 + KAF2 + KSB2 + KIO2 is $925 delivered.
Builders want between $350 and $450
Good Evening,
Field Day was fun last week. I did not make as many contacts as the
years before but I got to be around people. That was nice; they even fed
me :) The weather was pleasant with only a little rain. It did not get
too hot nor too cold either. The new park was much nicer
Joey (I assume - you did not sign your name or call),
The green wire connects with Control Board P4 pin 2. And YES, it will
look like the manual diagram when correctly completed. The green wire
goes toward the top of P4.
Yes, in this case, the arrow is closest to J8 pin 2. The rest of the
One of the differences between the K2 and K3 is that, being in a bigger box,
the K3 has bigger knobs, bigger buttons and a bigger display with bigger
letters.
Those are a huge so what? for many young ops, but it sounds to me like
they might making operating the K3 much more pleasant for you, not
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